Progress for Once - Road to Most Powerfull Two Stroke.
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- Опубліковано 30 вер 2024
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Alex, I'm sure I speak for everyone when I say every video of yours is definately a win!
They are great vids but what's the point at this rate. Making me believe that anybody can film anything and people will watch regardless of outcome.
@@pokerdealer2003 De gustibus non est disputandum my friend.
I like that he is taking a scientific approach and that it is giving him wins.
^Woooow an Hour Video how nice is that, i gonna make me some popcorn now and enjoy the vid
Hell yeah! Time to get my nerd on.
A file in a jigsaw is ok, be extra careful if you try it with a toothbrush.
Hundred percent I could watch hours of this man over any movie
Almost an hour of madness, this week just getting better and better. Keep up the good work sir! I love it❤
When you were brainstorming you mentioned every conceivable potential power robbing problem known to man, but it seems to me that most of them would be the kind of things you would consider when you were trying to tweak the last half horsepower out of an engine. One thing I didn't hear you mention is the possibility that your dyno readings might be faulty. Compared with previous runs, the engine now sounds so robust and frisky, so to speak. It starts, idles, and revs to high rpm rather nicely now like a healthy engine should. It's hard to believe you're not making more than 9 hp. Could it be the dyno data?
As he mentioned myltiple times in the past fews videos a lot of power probably gets "eaten" by his pully setup, the power on the crank should be about 50% more, with the last run around 13-14 hp
The fact that all this is just to test the cylinder design
And if it didn't work there is a big chance alex will try a whole new design until he will reach his goal
Just shows the dedication this man have ❤
Theres really nothing quite like his channel. Especially anything concerning 2 strokes
When I was playing with my Ehrlich boost port engine I was surprised at how sensitive it was to port height. I could not get it running at all until I lifted the barrel. Fussy things 2 strokes.
As soon as you start tinkering without having the books that explain consequences.
The first two stroke tuning book I read made a big deal out of changing exhaust port heights by thousandths of an inch which would drastically change the powerband.
@@Steven-p4j There is no book for mine as it never went in to production. I got a huge pile of parts, none of which seemed to work with each other until I found a spacer on the bottom of one of the barrels. I tried that and the engine started running really quite well but not perfectly. I did some jetting changes - mainly lifting the needle and it's nearly there now but there is still some work needed. It revs well, ticks over ok ish but bogs when opening the throttle. The boost ports and other tuning work raised my engine from a standard 1.7 bhp to 6.2 bhp. Not bad for a 1960's air cooled 50.
@@mjodryes. It can. Especially if the transfer height is not correlated to the change in exhaust tight.
We performance modify a lot of chainsaws & bikes through our shop 😊.
Dear Alex, I can't imagine that your engine does an almost insane 19,000 revolutions and only produces 5.5 hp at 15,000. I assume there's something wrong with the dyno.
Freddy you are correct , I cannot remember what the bottom half of the engine is from I think an Aprilia? If he has enough power to run top gear of that at 18,000 rpm even with transfer losses he is obviously way over 10bhp . Alex also seems to over think every problem he needs someone else to help him and also a proper Dyno although I am guessing he is in the middle of nowhere
You gotta stop doing more than one mod at a time
We called those "wrist pin buttons". We used them in naturally aspirated and blown applications. They were made of Teflon, I believe.. We did have recessed buttons, 0.35mm per side. Room for lateral heat expansion of the wrist pin.
I've seen those in rc air plane motors.
and drag cars
Used those Teflon buttons on a 4 cylinder 4 stroke rally motor.
The buttons got worn down on the hone cross-hatch marks in the sleeve.
I think you can guess what happened to the cylinder sleeves...
Was not pretty.
But there were only 2 score marks per cylinder because we had moved the gudgeon pin holes in the piston over a bit so that the con-rod remained more vertical on the power stroke.
And that idea worked well.
I don't like the word "failure" when it comes to things tried...
It is really "an idea that gets put on the *that does not work* list".
@@TheMadManPlace Yup, it's only a failure if you don't learn from it.
@@TheMadManPlace Agreed. My experience was when I first started using them in 1975 in a 302 N.A. on methanol, a racing hydroplane. Back then, we tried them as the pin retainers, bad idea... The buttons ended up in the oil pan! In a blown motor that's stroked, the pin hole is up in the ring lands. We used 7075 Alum. machined buttons to fill the gap. The pin is secured with the hated circle clips! Work great, but hard to work with. The button had the oil control ring and second ring to bridge. It was all part of a Ross Racing piston package. Nice pistons, BTW! Since in the 2-stroke engine, he has retainers for the pin, it may work. I would 3-D print something in plastic to go through the pin hole from both sides possibly to block the hole as a passage. I think something dragging on the cylinder wall is counter productive and could be pressure extruded into the piston-wall clearance, not a good thing! Also, RPM, lots of it!
For somebody that has watched almost all your videos can you please please try loctite 518 flange sealant when you reassemble your two-stroke please.
my favorite mad scinetist does not dissapoint, the "wood router adventure" seamed bit sketchy ngl but cudos for the idea, i would not think of it :D it looks like it will make some power
Hej Alex!
Just a thought. Har du testat bänken med en motor du vet effekten på? Alltså är du helt säker på att siffrorna du får ut är korrekta? Ta ”vilken motor som helst”, koppla den via växellådan i samma ram och se vilka resultat du får. Eller ta hela högen till nån annan med testbänk…
yeah it is tested.
@@bierbaum4284 not with the ”gearbox-engine” attached, right? Not as far as I can remeber at least.
he measured all types of mopeds with his dyno, even a harley i think. but yeah, the am6 box hasnt been measured. interesting for me would be to se the power the system looses. i dont know the english term, maybe drag power.
@@bierbaum4284 so how much power does the the pulley, belt and gearbox draw?
@@BricoleurTV exactly
So excited for this one! What could possibly go wrong?
Not sure what the changes are, but the latest ignitech firmware is 1.09 and you are still on 1.06. Might be worth updating in case there are any little bugs with the curve extrapolation or something like mentioned.
Good call puck
That was a nice episode! I had almost lost hope with your rotary valve. It was really funny seeing how the piston pin plug didn't make a difference either despite strong assumptions and even simulation 😁 Also the transfer hooks seem to do nothing either. I was planning to try adding the hooks but now I lost hope for that theory too. I think it has to be the exhaust. Wobblys theories have led us to make the exhaust duct too small. It is compounded by the length of the duct following from the duct cooling idea. Measure the duct outlet area, I say it has to be 25mm circular at a bare minimum and no restrictions in the middle. The pipe header is probably better to be at least 28mm. Think about the 80-90cc cylinder kits that are pushing 20hp+, they all have about 30mm exhaust flanges and the mass of the outflow is not going to be any different in a 50cc cylinder if you are going to push the same amount of power.
Might be boundary layer thickness makes a duct that works in 100cc+ cylinders too tight at 50cc. If I remember correctly my iame cylinder has a tight duct, but it's really short, 30mm or so.
Should make a modular cylinder with replaceable ducts.
Morjesta softaaja
Onnittelut lienee paikallaan. En ymmärrä miten kenelläkään voi olla noin hyvät hermot, että jaksaa jatkaa vaikka menee viikkoja että mikään ei auta. Onnittelut ja paljon kiitoksia aivan loistavasta kanavasta. Innolla aina odotan👍
Håller med fullständigt.
Jag hade gett upp för längesen. Inte en chans att jag har den uthålligheten. 😂
Underbart med långfilm! Loving the content🔥
Awesome video Alex!
I wonder have you had a known power bike on that dyno recently to baseline it?
Your engine seemed to be running very sweet. I can't understand how it could run so well but not make any power, but I'm not any kind of 2t expert
Did you ever think about tacking the Aprilia rsa 125 exhaust pipe (tubo 102) and scale dowm to a 50 cc ?
Maybe it would be a bit longer for your engine rpm target, but if the ratio (engine cc/exhaust volume) is the same of tubo 102 ad also the angles, you will probably see some better results
As usual brilliant content, fascinating to see you working through all the possibilities.Cannot wait for the next update !!!
50min? Långfilm förfan! 😎😎👍👍
can't argue with a 50% improvement, even if it's short of where it should be. Well done! I enjoyed the longer video. Now go celebrate a win!
Those 49 minutes just flew by in a moment. Well done 👍 😊
I will not believe that its just 6,34 HP at this sound and 19.000 U/min.
Are you sure your Dino is accurate?
Maybe you get a wrong egt reading, becose you are so close from the piston itself, that the probe actualy end up reading some mixture during the "extra" mixture pushed by exhaust until the wave kik that inside again... i think you get it.
G'day mate. Is the chassis dyno being ran in inertia mode or do you have a brake on it and the load cell? If it's in inertia mode it seems weird that it can spit out a live power number as inertia dynos measure acceleration over time. Meaning from say 8000rpm to 15000rpm they calculate hp based on time vs moment of inertia.
Well done keep it up
Really pleased to see Alex has got through the doldrums (a nautical thing!) and is well motivated again. I’m so inspired by this I’ve upped my Patreon payment according to the BHP increase (around 50% 😁). Great work Alex, but don’t get too obsessed 🧘
Congratulations Alex 👍🏻 easy is worth nothing and good results come after hard work and persisting through all those hard times your getting there. I would say 9 HP from a naturally aspirated 50cc engine is a good output.
Love the channel Alex 👍🏻
Hello neighbor. I'm a " Johnny come lately " to Alex's project and was curious to the cc's he is working with. As a 2 stroke lover, I have to agree that 9hp from 50cc is fantastic. To get that king of hp from a standard chainsaw engine, we have to be in the 95 too 110 cc's range. I would enjoy getting 9hp out of my 55cc chainsaw. It's so much lighter😅😅😅
Congratulations, i appreciate that you're willing to reevaluate the original calculations and concept to determine if the engine is going truly deliver on your promise. Can you put a cylinder off a known 50cc and see if the crank case is delivering as intended?
last time i saw this engine, it was bolted to a bicycle and was just mainly ideas. So awwesome to see this kind of progress nad hear her scream like a banshee!
now maybe experiment with more crankcase compression ratio to help the intake charge enter the cylinder at a higher velocity so it won't get sucked out the exhaust auxiliaries.
Won’t that make it worse?
Too bad, a method of monitoring and recording cylinder pressure, isn’t generally available, short of having access to a mint.
I suspect it would enable analysis of what’s going on, and ultimately optimization, instead of trial and error derived speculation.
Rapid-response, pressure sensors are out there and have been used as standard equipment for cylinder pressure data in internal combustion engines for years. They can be had for under $200.00. In the long run, if you can't measure what the engine is doing, you can't improve it. This goes for dynamometers too.
Absolutely amazing. Great video. And so much fun watching. You had fun as well. It was all just awesome.
Be careful about assuming the Exhaust temp is low due to the probe being close to the piston. Remember there is overscavenged mixture being pushed back into the cylinder that is sitting in the duct , thus the probe will read low due to this - not high. Also yes you are correct , if there is linking between the Exhaust ducts and the case at TDC it will run like shit with no power , same effect as having the piston skirt too short and the case being exposed at TDC . We are running quite alot of port linking overlap thru the pin bore in current race engines , yes the pin caps do help power , but its not a huge issue like the TDC one. - Cheers Wobbly.
This guy will be bumbling about, drinking whiskey and getting nowhere with this bike for the next 20 years.
Hoping to get somewhere soon. Bumbling about, drinking whiskey, and getting nowhere for the next 20yrs works too.
I think that the flange welded onto the belly of the pipe creates a harmful volume that strongly disturbs resonance... I suggest restoring the pipe as it was originally, in order to exclude a further negative factor.
Keep working man, I feel you're in the right way 💪
Keep on fighting the 2 stroke gremlins.
Hell yeah, any progress is good progress! Go to see a really positive outcome in this video!
Hey good work and i Like to Watch your Videos. Did you know the German book named “ Der schnelllaufende Zweitaktmotor “? This was my bible in my youth. There is a lot of R&D stuff from the German 2 stroke engineers from DKW and others. If you don’t know that, I’m sure it will help you. TC.
Would a variable expansion chamber help out? About 18 years ago I saw a 2 stroke track go kart and it had an expansion chamber that could be expanded. The driver could control it with a cable. It slid like a trombone trumpet, except it was about 3-4 inches in diameter. The owner said it gave him power throughout the rpm range. It needed it because it was a single speed.
It's like the inertia of the gasses is becoming an issue at these RPMs, like there's not enough time to start moving in the first place. It might be a good idea to start measuring intake mass air flow to rule out any obvious restrictions or your intake mix being shot out the exhaust.
Edit: it could also be that port timing becomes an increasingly big issue with the unconventional exhaust duct design, it will take much longer for the pipe pulse to arrive at the edges of the exhaust port than the middle, this would make the port inherently bad at producing peak power (though excellent at making wide band torque).
Try to just make a hole new pipe that is made for your exhaust duration and a reasonable rpm for max power like 13500 rpm and not 18000 like the old pipe
Hello,
I see that you are using the contraangle piece for the Marathon dentaldrill. Where would i be able to find burs suitable for accessing the transferports that fits in the contraangle piece. Good job as always👍
I'm running a 96% of bore bridged exhaust in a 265cc ATV engine. Specifically an '88-'92 Suzuki LT250r. 69.5mm/70mm B/S 125.5mm rod. Lots of welding and reprofiling of the ducts and entry angles. It makes good power and torque with a good pipe.
Wow. Quite a list .
Could the same power be made with less mods?
@@GR40RCapri No. The welding and reprofiling of the porting was done to work outside the limits of the factory casting. I used a shorter than stock rod and larger than stock piston - this was to raise and broaden the usable power range that the revised porting allowed. The power now begins at a lower RPM and peaks higher at a higher RPM than is possible within the standard castings.
first
Idk about the rest of scandinavia, but its J dag in Denmark. So happy J dag and drink responsibly.
It might be a good idea to invest in a cheap FLIR camera so that if there are bearing or friction issues when you try other configurations they can be easily and quickly identified so they dont mess with results
try to find a megasquirt fuel injection system for sale. i think youd have good luck with fuel injection
Do you have a way to access the crank case, to put a pressure sensor on it, something that can react fast, and a way to compare the pressure to the ignition or piston position? It could tell easily if the exhaust is entering the crank case, a hose with a pingpong ball on it with a cage keeping it loosely on there, using gravity to keep it on, if exhaust is entering it should look like blow by, moving the ball, if nothing else a balloon on a hose if it gets pressure at tdc, it will likely be exhaust entering the crank case!
Wrist pin buttons are common. Just go that route vrs them 2 piece pistons with buttons you don’t need wrist pin C-clips
Loctite 518 flange sealant!!!!
i think thats time to create a "pip 2.0" engine! man i think that creating a new cilynder is the way to go
What a great video, great progress made.
Could I re suggest plugging the B ports with oiled toilet paper to stop them working which will help give a definitive answer to their
performance. The wrist pin could have being blocked in the same way.
You are now obtaining enough revs to be able to get a good plug reading.
Are you testing the engine from cold.
Over a year ago I sent you a email about a video Mark Atkinson did on his land speed bike which had poor performance.
The conclusion was the transfers were too large giving good flow but low velocity. I am still a firm believer in high primary compression. It was one of the major tuning area's of the 70/80's it worked!
Lowering the exhaust port is a major step in the right direction, you know my feelings on that subject. As you said if the spent exhaust gas is not cleared totally it is re burning the left over spent gas which doesn't help perfofmance.
Finally may I repeat the old saying " you have to get it out quicker than you put it in "
It's nice to see you back in action!
PS. Having watched the video again I can see the water temperature guage is working. I wish the temp guage would not jump about by upto 9C so rapidly.
Recently I been thinking about reciprocating file setups. Don’t know of any. Like a file that fits a jigsaw or mini/full size reciprocating saw ( commonly referred to as a saws-all in the US ).
I have head the pipe outlet size is fairly critical also it would be interesting to try some different sizes and lengths
Another incredible video, and with the added bonus of being feature length……your levels of patience and perseverance are something to be admired along with your knowledge of 2 stroke design and function.
Check for black goo now the wrist pin is closed off.
Jazz? er..no
Ignition timing can make big gains or losses, but also you could be losing power through parasitic load through the engine case you're driving through
What an awesome episode👏 I’ve been following this crazy channel for a bunch of years now and I’m still glued to every up and down, and up and down… and up… Love it!
Feel like this was your true first video back from time off ❤ great content brother
Im so happy thr music is back that i git my headphones for this video
"It's the next day and i've changed my mind" Man! Change one thing at a time!
Plugs on either side of the gudgeon pin are used in many aviation engines.
Great work! Have you change the gear ratio in dyno program after you change the pulley on the motor? Or I missed something
15:31 i love that you explain the thoughs. More videos im exited
Amazing video!
I've been saying that your port timing is off!
I bet the major amount of performance will be found at the exit of your exhaust!! Reshape it! It’s way too small! Rethink your theory about exhaust gas velocity, your thinking the wrong way around !
I ment the end of the exhaustport not the end the end of the exhaust itself
I cant keep this up. this is like some form of insanity.
I have to ask that rounded mark in your pants is it snus pack
Hello I have been watching your progression of videos for a couple years now thank you for sharing. I specialize in tuning motorcycles and own my own dyno. Do you have a way of collecting o2 data ? EGT regardless of is said on the internet is just not an accurate way to tune. You can see this in the lack of repeatability due to slow response of the EGT. Any change in the length of time load or rpm in witch the data is collected will skew the results. You must use o2 sensors or you will keep chasing your tail.
It needs several egt sensors placed in different positions throughout the pipe.
You need to brighten up these videos. They are a depressing shade of gloom. Forget the fancy camera shit it isnt putting you in a good light at the moment. We all care about you but you need to care about yourself. Starting with the cough didnt help show yourself as someone winning the fight. Maximum love Alex but im always going to talk real with you.
p.s. That cylinder made more power before on the same exact cylinder with a short circuiting piston pin.
I think you should Model the entire engine as it is now in engmod, like with all the changes to the case, intake, cylinder and didnt you up the compression at one piont? Anyway I think that could answer some stuff. Love the videos!
And to clarify I mean go thruu and measure everything as you put it in to engmod just like if you had never seen the engine before, like even if u think some is exactly like you designed it its probably good to go thru and check as you make the model. Just an idea
Excellent! You're extremely patient. Keep up the good work 👍😁
Many people say that adding a thin coating of grease to both sides of the new lower cylinder gasket will make it not stick, and thus reusable in future disassembly
I rub it in with oil for the same purpose👍
Thanks for this update! What a good way to start the weekend 👍
As much power as a bsa bantam . Only way is up
🔥🔥enjoy the video guys
its sounds smooooth. good job.
Definitely Lounge, not Jazz!!
+1 for "The Neverending Story"
How do you know the dyno is accurate?
Congratulations on your WIN mate! On the upswing now. Thanks for keeping me amused last few years.
Recirulating exhaust gases into the combustion chamber will lower your exhaust temps. That’s how modern diesel and petrol engines meet high test standards.
2 strokes do that all the time haha. They never get all the exhaust to leave the cylinder before mixing with the incoming charge.
I've never seen a variable rotary valve.
@2STROKE STUFFING Alex: Have you considered your 3D printed insert as causing the goo? Engine-heat would make the fuel more corrosive and it appears to be the last black thing in the engine?
so now it works, time for blower
Might be a good idea to get a 50cc stock motor and copy it and make individual changes 1 at a time until you have pushed it so far it has become something unique 😁.. im not suggesting to make a stock 50cc im suggesting you start from a known working design and add your ideas 1 at a time get as much power then move on and add the next idea and push it as far as it goes and so on!! Sure it will be slow development but by the end it will be a completely different motor and you will see what ideas are working as intended and what isn't then developing each idea to its limits before moving on will make it impossible to miss where the issue is.. i love your work and videos but doing a thousand ideas all at once is part of the problem making it harder to identify where the biggest issues are.. i can't wait to see you hit 50hp for 50cc that will be very Cool 😎😎
Your development videos are fun to watch. Looking forward to teh day when you develop a 20HP 50cc buzzbomb, in the mean time, it certainly idles better!
EXTRA LONG VIDEO YES
68 like’s in 10 minutes 🎉 wel done people.
First!
Dang Alex, you are on a roll again. REALLY good stuff.
Honestly. Keep the longer videos coming. Watching you trial and error, and error and trial is great. I know it’s a lot of editing, and 10x as much physical work just doing the work to make the videos. But we will watch them. This video is a close second to your Frits germany tour video. Great work. A win indeed my friend.
Your primary belt is much too tight, even if that is not your problem. Toothed belts do not work on tight tension they work on the teeth. Let it right off, as you once before had it, in a previous video.
If your seeing black down the transfers sounds like your definitley backstuffing. I have seen this before and changing blowdown in my experience did help with that. Of course thats sometimes not what you may want and then you go down a rabbit hole changing port timing all over, lol . Love the videos!!!
In the 80's I remember using balsa wood glued with epoxy to fill the piston pin was a common practice in 2 stroke racing engines.
yes
Give Mission Systems a call for your ignition stuff. They have been one of the only companies that have been able to answer my questions and get me parts that did what they said.