You will always face the hassle of having to remove the shorting on the last 2 or 3 pins of an in-line IC, on every drag. It is because the PCB did not incorporate a piece of empty-land (triangular shaped) after the last pin of the IC. With this land, you can drag the excess solder into the empty-land. I learnt this from Yamaha DMI Japan. Our production operatives solder hundreds of QFPs and DILs each production day with no problems. It is also good to tilt the PCB at an angle for gravity to work its magic during dragging.
@@krass76 I've seen them several times near old computer CD-ROM controller chips many years ago, always wondered why they were there, and now I understand... THanks.
Dear Mr. John, Hello from Worcester, MA State. I want to let you know that I am phone technician and doing this work for almost 5 years in MA state. I want to learn this amazing profession, soldering the microchips on phones and other electrical devices. By the way you have done great job Sir! I liked it and put the like button for this amazing video. Well done Sir!!! Thanks and take care
After watching your videos I started to utilize "sweep" technique on QFP chips (which I use most) and results are excellent, even with much simpler equipment. I already showed this video to many of my colleagues. Thank you !
My hand was that steady when I turned 20 the first time. It was tougher after turning 20 the 3rd time. Now I have a better chance programming servo's to reproduce the movement lol. When I went to school they didn't even have Fortran yet lol. This is all just amazing, this IS the future for me!.
Very clear instructions, thanks for the info. I am just a beginner but with video's like this I will soon master the techniques required to make anything I want. Thanks!
This is awesome! I want to emphasize that a proper magnifying glass (like used in the video) is very important so that you know when you have succeeded and you can safely connect power :)
My tip doesn't seem to "suck" remaining molten solder up. In fact, the solder tends to get trapped between the legs on the chip. Am I doing something wrong? How would you get solder out from in between legs, when multiple connections are made with one glob of solder?
Very satisfying to see the solder goes through so fucken easy....by the way what is that white brush made of? It looks a special kind of material anti-static?
That is fantastic work! I'm looking into what equipment is needed for this type of work, I have seen other video's where they have used "solder paste" I assume this replaces solder on the tip of the iron. are there any benefits either way ?. I have seen hot air, ovens, irons and still don't know whats easiest.
+simon beliveau - I don't use Amtech anymore. Some rep's will balk at this but here's the straight scoop, coming from an MIT. Kester 741 No-clean Electronics Rework Flux blows away Amtech in performance and wetting. Most of the time I simply use a flux pen of no-clean with 2-4% solids max. Kester 951 2% low solids is my very favorite in a flux pen. Here is the info on 951. www.kester.com/products/product/951-Soldering-Flux/ The solder used was a tin/lead, Sn63 Pb37 no-clean. It is just as easy with a ROHS lead-free SAC alloy. Most common seems to be SAC 305. Even with a no-clean, remove it. Flux residue has a history of affecting SIR testing (Surface Insulation Resistance), reactivating in the end use environment promoting corrosion and can result in ECM (Electrochemical migration), i.e., chip component with ECM migrating on top side from anode to cathode.
Looks good. Unfortunately, most of the boards I work with have parts jammed up next to the SMDs, and other tall parts around making it almost impossible to get a soldering iron in, let alone be able to drag it like that.
Depending on if you are working on your own design I would suggest changing your order of operations so the more complex jobs such as this are done first when you still have room.
You are a soldering magician and the main reason I want to start drag soldering myself! I noticed that in most of your videos you use a simple hoof tip of 3mm diameter. Sadly this tip is not available for my for my solder station(ersa i-con nano). The closers I can order are: 2mm hoof, 4mm hoof ,2.3mm miniwave and 3.5mm miniwave tips. Which of these do you think is the more ideal for this technique? Thanks
+Georgios V - Use their 2.3mm miniwave and it should work identical. All those tips you mentioned will work. 4mm is to large. 2mm - 3.5 max should do magic. Follow the techniques I have presented and update me please.
+John Gammell - Thanks a lot for your helpful detailed answer. As soon as I get my new miniwave tip and have my first passable results I 'll post back :)
Beautifully done I don't think my eyesight would let me near it, interested to know what's a good solder,flux or solder paste brand thats available in the UK is as there is a lot of Chinese poor quality about .
i do have an certificate in IPC i get it when i was working at TERADYNE as an Board Repair Specialist..i miss this stuff..i am now at fairchild working as a test equip. technician..
Great video, it is instructive. I would like to do it. I tried LQFP48, but the result was poor. I failed chip positioning. My fingers shaked, and I could not see lead and pad clearly. What kind of magnifier do you use? How should I practice, to stop finger shaking?
+Nguyễn Mạnh Cường - Don't you see two opposite corners tack soldered? There is no other way to do it other than tacking two opposite corners and optional to tack the other two remaining corners. Mandatory for a beginner. I just did not show it in the video. It would be impossible to hand solder this any other way as it would throw off your component orientation and create overhang.
Simply outstanding job!! :-D I used to thnk ths type of micro soldering is done by machine nver by hnd. Bt , I see humqn hands can do it. I thnk I will need a microscope evthough i dnt wear eye glass. Hmmmmm… amazing. :-D
great video but it could really use audio. when it comes to rework does your stance on wick change ? is there some other technique you use to get old crap off? if not what are you doing to keep the leads in line on large chips where the bevel makes them want to move in every direction with even slightly tinned pads?
Que buen cuidado al momento de instalar el chip Smd, mi inquietud es la siguiente: como se llama el lápiz que le pasa antes de poner la suelda...? Saludos,
Do you do repairs?I need a dsp chip soldered to a circuit board.I watched your video and gave it a try I had 3 sides perfect but the 4th side was a disaster.I would rather a professional do it the next time.
Excellent question. In this video I use a Sn63 Pb37 eutectic (lowest melting point at 361.4° F. - plasticity, not full wetting.) Best manufacturing practices for tin/lead and lead-free are as follows: 1) Sn63 Pb37 Tin/Lead: 600° F. 2) SAC Alloy Lead-free: 700° F [requires hotter temp and increased dwell time by 1-3 seconds] Applies to tin, silver, nickel, cobalt, HMP, etc... There are variables such as thick board copper. Harder to isolate sufficient heat for wetting and extraction. Use auxiliary heat. Convective (hot air) or infrared with thermocouple. Always here for you. John Gammell, MIT
You are only using 500° F. I understand if you are going with components that are very thermally sensitive, i.e., chip components. Chips should be soldered with convection to minimize thermal stress. My advice is to use up to 600° F for a good metallurgical bond, achieve wetting as quickly as possible (minimum dwell time, contact) and get out of there. 500° F is a temp I never solder with. In my opinion it is a bit to low.
Super impressive! Looks so easy when you do it... :O Kinda makes me think I could possibly have used SMD's instead of through-hole on my last PCB.... just maybe. :D
You will always face the hassle of having to remove the shorting on the last 2 or 3 pins of an in-line IC, on every drag. It is because the PCB did not incorporate a piece of empty-land (triangular shaped) after the last pin of the IC. With this land, you can drag the excess solder into the empty-land. I learnt this from Yamaha DMI Japan. Our production operatives solder hundreds of QFPs and DILs each production day with no problems. It is also good to tilt the PCB at an angle for gravity to work its magic during dragging.
fascinating idea! I'd like to implement this too, could you maybe post a picture of such an smd empty-land? I have trouble finding it.
@@krass76 I've seen them several times near old computer CD-ROM controller chips many years ago, always wondered why they were there, and now I understand... THanks.
Yeah man, those excess solder drag pads are fantastic. All PCB's should have those
ok
How many millimeters is the flat part of the iron tip?
Dear Mr. John,
Hello from Worcester, MA State. I want to let you know that I am phone technician and doing this work for almost 5 years in MA state. I want to learn this amazing profession, soldering the microchips on phones and other electrical devices. By the way you have done great job Sir! I liked it and put the like button for this amazing video. Well done Sir!!!
Thanks and take care
Beautiful work. A real inspiration to anyone faces with tiny pins and the fear of soldering
Folks, just like me. My SMD components arrived yesterday. 😱
Wish this video had demonstrated how to solder grains of sand.🤔
Great videos, would be awesome to see more. No one on UA-cam drag solders as cleanly and in one pass like this.
After watching your videos I started to utilize "sweep" technique on QFP chips (which I use most) and results are excellent, even with much simpler equipment. I already showed this video to many of my colleagues. Thank you !
For future reference, the technique is called drag soldering.
Wow, just wow!If this is not art, what is? Thank you for this informative video
When I grow up I wanna solder like that! :) Nice video! Congrats and thanks for sharing.
This video saved my butt on a project I was just working on. Thank you sooo much!
My hand was that steady when I turned 20 the first time. It was tougher after turning 20 the 3rd time. Now I have a better chance programming servo's to reproduce the movement lol. When I went to school they didn't even have Fortran yet lol. This is all just amazing, this IS the future for me!.
That soldering is beautiful! Respect!
Very clear instructions, thanks for the info. I am just a beginner but with video's like this I will soon master the techniques required to make anything I want. Thanks!
Superb.......! Sir. I don't have words to appreciate you for your skill.
I appreciate your kind words. I would have you duplicating my soldering techniques after a day or two of training.
This is awesome! I want to emphasize that a proper magnifying glass (like used in the video) is very important so that you know when you have succeeded and you can safely connect power :)
Beautiful, simply beautiful, the Asat chip in particular looks like it was done by a robot :) Superb :D
wonderful to see how this is done.. of course learning about the specialized tools and materials is just as important as see what has to be done.
So satisfying to see those solder joints go!
video stored in the "Solderingporn" folder XD
Maxdarkdog elsass frei
Maxdarkdog is,
Exactly 😄
is there a way to share folders? I'd love to see what else is in there!
dont let your mom find it :D
nice video and technique , what soldering flux you are using?
Thank you very much...you saved me one day work into 15min work.....love you😘
This is the best, I am so glad I found your videos, now I need to find and buy these sponge swabs 😅
clearly a professional at work.
Always keep returning to this video as a reference and as an art ^_^
MUY BUENOS TUS VIDEOS GENIO NOS INSPIRA A TODOS LOS QUE HACEMOS ESTO SALUDOS DESDE ARGENTINA
Excellent video. such practice can be done with very low tech equipment and materials too.
THANK YOU.
Cheers from Denmark 🇩🇰
My tip doesn't seem to "suck" remaining molten solder up. In fact, the solder tends to get trapped between the legs on the chip. Am I doing something wrong? How would you get solder out from in between legs, when multiple connections are made with one glob of solder?
Well I have to admit I did not think it was possible to do this with such a large soldering iron !
Thanks a lot.
I am just falling in love with your soldering thecnick😍
Beautius. I was looking around for an iron to do some fine soldering and ended up here :)
You make it look so easy...
Excellent technical, I will use this!
You make it look so easy.
Very satisfying to see the solder goes through so fucken easy....by the way what is that white brush made of? It looks a special kind of material anti-static?
Respect !
That is fantastic work! I'm looking into what equipment is needed for this type of work, I have seen other video's where they have used "solder paste" I assume this replaces solder on the tip of the iron. are there any benefits either way ?. I have seen hot air, ovens, irons and still don't know whats easiest.
Best soldering skills in the world 👍
awesome vid!!
dont know how you dont have a ton of likes...
thanks for the great tips!
LOL those cut-edits at 2:29 - 2:33 etc... master of the shadows !
You saved my RC JMatic excavator :) Thank you!
Beautiful. I though you used Amtech 559 syringe flux, what is this pencil that you are using? I assume this is ROHS solder?
+simon beliveau - I don't use Amtech anymore. Some rep's will balk at this but here's the straight scoop, coming from an MIT. Kester 741 No-clean Electronics Rework Flux blows away Amtech in performance and wetting. Most of the time I simply use a flux pen of no-clean with 2-4% solids max. Kester 951 2% low solids is my very favorite in a flux pen. Here is the info on 951. www.kester.com/products/product/951-Soldering-Flux/
The solder used was a tin/lead, Sn63 Pb37 no-clean. It is just as easy with a ROHS lead-free SAC alloy. Most common seems to be SAC 305. Even with a no-clean, remove it. Flux residue has a history of affecting SIR testing (Surface Insulation Resistance), reactivating in the end use environment promoting corrosion and can result in ECM (Electrochemical migration), i.e., chip component with ECM migrating on top side from anode to cathode.
I don't know why, but soldering is always so relaxing for me.
me too
same here :)
Looks good. Unfortunately, most of the boards I work with have parts jammed up next to the SMDs, and other tall parts around making it almost impossible to get a soldering iron in, let alone be able to drag it like that.
Depending on if you are working on your own design I would suggest changing your order of operations so the more complex jobs such as this are done first when you still have room.
You are a soldering magician and the main reason I want to start drag soldering myself!
I noticed that in most of your videos you use a simple hoof tip of 3mm diameter.
Sadly this tip is not available for my for my solder station(ersa i-con nano).
The closers I can order are: 2mm hoof, 4mm hoof ,2.3mm miniwave and 3.5mm miniwave tips.
Which of these do you think is the more ideal for this technique?
Thanks
+Georgios V - Use their 2.3mm miniwave and it should work identical. All those tips you mentioned will work. 4mm is to large. 2mm - 3.5 max should do magic. Follow the techniques I have presented and update me please.
+John Gammell - Thanks a lot for your helpful detailed answer. As soon as I get my new miniwave tip and have my first passable results I 'll post back :)
and then u never posted
This is a great video.
I loved it. thanks for sharing! Amazing!
very good job....i like it so much
usually not possible with hand soldering but amazing results
Amazing. Looks like a factory solder job!
Great video !
Beautifully done I don't think my eyesight would let me near it, interested to know what's a good solder,flux or solder paste brand thats available in the UK is as there is a lot of Chinese poor quality about .
You’re an impressive craftsman.
Oh, and what brush? I see in some videos you use a brush instead of a swab. Thanks!
i do have an certificate in IPC i get it when i was working at TERADYNE as an Board Repair Specialist..i miss this stuff..i am now at fairchild working as a test equip. technician..
What a soldering... Wow... Amazing
Dam I must be bad. I tried this and turned one short into twenty..... You have training near NJ?
00:37 - why you not just continue the move?
Why you on end move to side?
Equipment? Solder flux etc? And soldering temperature?
A Tremedeira Ainda é Uma Grande Vilã
Which brand of flux do you use??? Can you tell me??? Thank you~
May I ask: What type/brand of swab are you using to clean up? (Awesome vids. I'm getting a chisel and bevel tip. Thanks so much!)
Very good man!Thank you!
this looks so perfect
Thank you so much.
Great video, it is instructive. I would like to do it.
I tried LQFP48, but the result was poor. I failed chip positioning. My fingers shaked, and I could not see lead and pad clearly.
What kind of magnifier do you use?
How should I practice, to stop finger shaking?
+provincial i think, firstly you should use a small amount of solder to fix 2 opposite corners of the chip.
+Nguyễn Mạnh Cường
Thank you. I will try it again.
+Nguyễn Mạnh Cường - Don't you see two opposite corners tack soldered? There is no other way to do it other than tacking two opposite corners and optional to tack the other two remaining corners. Mandatory for a beginner. I just did not show it in the video. It would be impossible to hand solder this any other way as it would throw off your component orientation and create overhang.
*****
Thank you for your help.
Maybe rest a finger on something, to stabilize your hand.
Best soldering.
Please give flux, solder wire size and name
Simply outstanding job!! :-D I used to thnk ths type of micro soldering is done by machine nver by hnd. Bt , I see humqn hands can do it. I thnk I will need a microscope evthough i dnt wear eye glass. Hmmmmm… amazing. :-D
Hi, Can you tell me what tip did you used? That's a bevel tip isn't it? what is the tip size and angle?
Where can I buy these practice boards and components.
Thanks you teacher
Your videos are brilliant. Please show how to solder a QFN by hand.
great video but it could really use audio. when it comes to rework does your stance on wick change ? is there some other technique you use to get old crap off? if not what are you doing to keep the leads in line on large chips where the bevel makes them want to move in every direction with even slightly tinned pads?
Que buen cuidado al momento de instalar el chip Smd, mi inquietud es la siguiente: como se llama el lápiz que le pasa antes de poner la suelda...? Saludos,
What are you using to clean the flux residue?
when i offer the iron to the pins the solder does not wick / follow the heat of the iron. Any ideas? Thanks for the very good video great technique.
What is the optimum temperature for this type of soldering. My first attempt was a complete fail....
What is that pen with fluid? where i can buy it?
Very fine nice points ended
excellent, excellent, excellent, that's what I can say to your video.
Excelente!
What chemical did you use for removing the residual flux after soldering?
May I ask what is your solder of preference for fine pitch drag soldering? Thanks.
Bro super. I like ur videos 👍
How do you keep your IC'S from jumping all around?
how many watts is your soldering iron sir?
this is art
Great video
Hi John. How to enroll?
Thank you. Trying to fix a Dell monitor by replacing a vsync IC chip.
Do you do repairs?I need a dsp chip soldered to a circuit board.I watched your video and gave it a try I had 3 sides perfect but the 4th side was a disaster.I would rather a professional do it the next time.
What type of rt tip are you using?
Why did you stop posting videos?
When using a flux pen do you still use rosin core solder?
What is the recommended solder for drag soldering?
I guess you don't have to because all the flux from the core is long gone by the time you get the tip in place, but at least it will clean the tip.
Which liquid do use before solding
whats the thing u used to soder
great tutorial
Sensacional gostei muito PARABÉNS.
how I purchase soldring and where is awailable
Hi, what temperature of the tip you use ?
Excellent question. In this video I use a Sn63 Pb37 eutectic (lowest melting point at 361.4° F. - plasticity, not full wetting.) Best manufacturing practices for tin/lead and lead-free are as follows:
1) Sn63 Pb37 Tin/Lead: 600° F. 2) SAC Alloy Lead-free: 700° F [requires hotter temp and increased dwell time by 1-3 seconds] Applies to tin, silver, nickel, cobalt, HMP, etc... There are variables such as thick board copper. Harder to isolate sufficient heat for wetting and extraction. Use auxiliary heat. Convective (hot air) or infrared with thermocouple. Always here for you.
John Gammell, MIT
Thanks. 600 °F = 315 ℃, 700 °F = 371 ℃. That is a lot, I am still in 260 ℃ league :).
You are only using 500° F. I understand if you are going with components that are very thermally sensitive, i.e., chip components. Chips should be soldered with convection to minimize thermal stress. My advice is to use up to 600° F for a good metallurgical bond, achieve wetting as quickly as possible (minimum dwell time, contact) and get out of there. 500° F is a temp I never solder with. In my opinion it is a bit to low.
Thanks for sharing
Super impressive! Looks so easy when you do it... :O
Kinda makes me think I could possibly have used SMD's instead of through-hole on my last PCB.... just maybe. :D
It is easy. Seriously. If you've done other SMT work (like resistor or capacitors), this is like 10 times easier.
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