The theory on incorrect fuel pipes is a good one. This is an old boat that will have rubber fuel lines. Today’s diesel contains vegetable based esters, which turn rubber into hard coal. I think you need to replace every fuel hose in the boat. And flush out every steel pipe to remove the “coal”.
Soon as I saw the black inner fuel line, I got the same feeling. My problem with my OLD boat was diesel bug, I'd tried circulating filters, polishing, new lines etc. Cured it in the end with new engines fuel system and two tanks.
I am sure its the NEW diesel, when changing the rubber lines don't forget the diesel will also eat any rubber joints in connectors filters etc so change them as well!
As a boat owner I feel your pain. I had all sorts of issues with my first boat and went from one crisis to the next. Two engine rebuilds later I had a working boat, then a partial sinking meant a new starter motor, alternator and battery. That was three boats ago and now I have a lovely boat and great days sailing. What I mean by all this is that it will work itself out in the end. I wish you every success. You both deserve it.
High quality production with the usual realities of boat life. May I suggest (with no great experience other than old bangers and motorcycles) that these chunks could be from the linings of hoses and lines affected by the fuel over many years. Are the main filler pipes to the tanks metal? In the past has a fuel filter disintegrated? It appears to be just one engine affected, interesting. Simon you WILL fix of course. Here we have the makings of another epic U-Tube channel.
Agreed, the hoses may have degraded over time but what if someone changed a hose in the past for one that was not diesel rated? It might be worth biting the bullet and re-plumbing the fuel delivery system with quality diesel fuel hose and metal hard lines where you can. The fuel tank will probably need cleaning out as well. The coal reminds me of the partially burnt fuel that coated the inside of all the cams and gear around an injector on a Merc engine that I had, of course it can't be unburnt/semi-burnt fuel but that is how diesel can degrade. On the alignment of the props a double cardan between the output flange and the prop could solve the misalignment issue or maybe a rubber coupling that must be available for the torque (Porsche used to use guibo joints on the output shafts of their Can Am racer that produced 1100bhp and they were under considerably more stress than your props). I would imagine that the damage inflicted on the props knocked the engines out of alignment.
Welcome to the wonderful world of “fix your boat”. I’m sure at this point you now understand why boats get abandoned. The financial constraints often make it impossible to do what you eventually realize is necessary. It’s a big challenge. As frustrating as this experience has been, you are learning. Many of us have been where you are. Seeing Simon standing in the bilge between the engines, surrounded by tools brought back many memories from 50 years ago! The truth of owning larger boats is you probably spend as much or more time on maintenance as you do enjoying the boat. But, in the end this is going to help you manage Sarinda.
You guys are just awesome, a massive inspiration. There's no mountain you two can't conquer and you still manage to put out a video despite all the grief. Fingers crossed you get a bit of luck and can sort it quickly 🤞
Great video you two. Remember the time when you had a crazy idea to do up a boat, depite neither of you having any ship building / repair experience? Now look at you, great team work and your cobined skil set have made fantastic progress with Sarinda. I have no worries at all that you will get the issues resolved and have great family times at sea. 🙂
I know it's discouraging, but what you are seeing is not particularly awful for a boat that hasn't been used recently. Shafts are hard to align, but you'll get them right. Your fuel problems won't go away until you clean out your tank, but once you do you will feel like total experts on how to clean it up. You are learning and you are learning fast. Keep it up and in a few years down the line you will be amazed at the reliability and confidence you have achieved. (Edit: this brings back memories of my Tiara Open. One of the best things I ever did was empty my tanks, heavily scrub them with soap and water and degreaser, power wash, rinse, then rinse with mineral spirits)
I’ve just rebuilt a car diesel engine that was coked with soot. But when I got into the job there’s was lots of messed up stuff. Nothing was especially expensive but it did demand a full strip and rebuild. Anything less would only have bitten me later.
The tanks might not be especially dirty. However, you will need to replace ALL rubber fuel lines and blow through all metal pipes. Methyl ester (biodiesel) turns rubber into hard coal. Even silicone rubber can’t handle it. Modern diesel contains about 10% biodiesel. It also loosens sludge from the tank bottom. It’s probably wise to check the injection pumps as they might have rubber seals.
@@Dave5843-d9m This is correct. Additionally biodiesel (RME) is very bad due to the buildup of microbial contamination (Diesel bugs) in the tanks and filters. Use only marine diesel that is RME free.
I would suggest the problem is degradation of any old rubber hoses. Diesel now has bio derived addatives similar to the situation with petrol. Both fuels require modern tubing if problems are to be avoided. For petrol the standard is SAEJ30R9. Not sure if it is the same for diesel. Looks like you will not only have to rinse out the tanks but will also have to replace all the lines. If any team have the fortitude to overcome these issues then you two certainly have. Good luck.
Black deposits could have been in the fuel pipes/tubes and it is slowly breaking off. Probably restricting the pipes on the low power engine. Worth changing all the fuel pipes or at least removing them and rodding through. Only place I can think it is coming from as your tanks were clean and you did the filters.
I don't think they were until after they ran the engines properly in the water. They almost emptied the fuel tank in a previous episode and they were clean from what I remember.
@@neilfuller3172my thoughts exactly. It could be the inner of the return line if this cycles back to the tank. I've had these lines break down on an outboard before. However, I am also fairly sure Simon would have checked this before removing the tank, I guess we will see next time!
I got clogged fuel filters very often until I cleaned the fuel tanks. I have mild steel tanks that hadn't been cleaned since the boat was built in 1986. There were no inspection holes so I cut two Ø 50 mm holes with a hole saw. Flushed out a couple of kg of rust and gunk with the pressure washer. Then the filter problem was solved but a couple of days later, I found one of the tanks had a small dripping leak. The rust had kept it tight and then a small pore opened. I sprayed the inside with Por 15 tank sealant and since then, no problem. Removing the tanks would require removing the engines so I'm very glad the tank sealant worked.
Did you check the tank breather ?? Insects build nests in pipes !! The alignment can ONLY be done afloat and looking back you used a lot of sideways force to remove the P bracket which possibly has put it all out of alignment.
NOoooo don’t lose morale Simon just look back at what you’ve both taken on and I think you’ve both broke it’s back, for all you’ve done in the past your new boat has teething problems that I’d be confident in knowing you Can sort it. It’s another learning curve and think of the happier days your family and friends can have on the high seas, you have to take the rough with the smooth and going back to my days at sea I remember weighing it up and there were far more good and fun days. Wishing you Gemma and family many many happy sailing days ahead.
HAHAHAHA @7:48 burning those fossilized dinosaurs and the kid with mental problems and the ear of many of the worlds "leaders" giving you the "how dare you" was a master stroke of funny editing. Made me spray my coffee
Hang on in there guys! You are such an inspiration and the biggest challenges often turn out to generate the biggest successes I’m sure you know that x
Hi Simon, others have suggested to replace the fuel lines with new. Also might want to check the conditions of the engine mounts specially if they’re rubber.
Anyone who has messed around with boats feels right with you. It will be worth it! I add my vote for replacing all the fuel lines. The coal looks like the lining of the hose, hardened with age. Suggestion: add a clear filter housing with no filter right after the tank so solid bits can settle out and you can see any that might be in the system. Like a water trap, but for large particles. You could also add a screen to the pickup tube in the tank. Both of these are to get any bits in the pump or hard lines. When you align the engine, you need to get top-bottom as well as left-right. We're right behind you! You will do it!
I'm confident that most of you are familiar with the old "Best 2 days of a boat owner are, etc. etc. However, the period between those 2 days generates another adage -- Definition of a boat: "A large hole in the water, into which the owner pours money (almost daily)."
As a mechanic with 45 years behind me, the main issue you have is the fuel lines, today they are steel or at least a sintered alloy to prevent what you have now. Save yourselves a lot of pain and change them out, its relatively easy and the difference will be clean fuel. As for the vibration, if it is motor/shaft misalignment try use a laser alignment tool, cheap and absolutely accurate. Good luck, you are closer to the finish line than the start line.
Hi, I had a 56ft Boat in Spain, and very similar problems, I totally agree all new fuel lines, and what we ended up with was a string of pre filters reducing in size and also run a very good additive. Happy boating Peter
Guys I haven’t read all the posts but I have read quite a few so may I suggest that you rig up a temporary tank with fresh fuel disconnect your existing lines and hook up to the temp tank this will get you going so you can relocate just make sure you have a spare top up tank of fuel to make sure you have enough fuel to get you home ,…oh needles to say strap your temp tank down to secure it safely?. I recon this will do the job good luck Dave
You're feeling defeated and tired, but you're both so resilient and so brilliant at problem solving you'll get the job done. Wish I could help financially but I watched all the adverts from start to finish to help increase your revenue a bit!! Good luck, love watching your vids x
Hiya So sorry thst uou sre having problems. Can i make two suggestions. One, as the hull has been out of the water on blocks and stands, it had probably taken up a very slight diffrrent shape. Now its back in the water it is gradually returning to normal, hence your alignment issues. Two,can you not use some 5 gallon plastic tanks of known clean diesel to get you home. Good luck, love all your videos. Chris and Claire. el Campello Spain 0:31
Good suggestion. Use temporary tanks to bypass trouble and if that solves the problem use them to get home and final solution. (I know, I know, you've already decided to return to the hard)
You both are an inspiration to all, from another boater who is doing the same of recommissioning a boat that has done nothing for 4 years you show the highs and lows, keep up the good work and when it’s done you’ll laugh at the lows…. Love the Greta bit had me crying 🤣
You two are so resilient and resourceful. You have amazingly good (no great) inventive and logical problem solving minds. I know you will get to the bottom (of them tank) of the issue and find the problem/solution. Cannot wait for the next episode 👍👍👍🙂
Sounds like new fuel lines are in order. It sounds like you have crystallized fuel in the fuel lines which means you will continue fighting this until it finally flushed out completely. Keep your head up mate, you’ve come so far! 👍👍🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🤘🏻🤘🏻
Remember the new fuel E10 is more corrosive than E5 so it will not decrease in the future. You must also remember that any diaphragm in the system will lose its capacity due to the adverse effect of these fuels. So change lines as suggested, clean tanks and change any diaphragms in system and any odd misfires might have an injector issue. You will get over this but take your time because there are no stop offs offshore! 😮 Now be positive and enjoy your company!
I had a problem with my port engine staying at high idle after a run. It's been this way for 2 seasons and through 2 mechanics that couldn't figure it out . Thank goodness for UA-cam videos like yours. The problem was not systematic of the part failure and led me to other potential part failures. I finally found a video that described my problem and I bought the new part and fixed it. Be patient and if it's late and you're tired wait til the next day. Something my mother taught me years ago when I had no patience.
The fuel system is going to be where the fault lies. The reality is a full change of the fuel system. One easy way to check is use a separate fuel tank And bypass the filter system direct to the engine. If the engine runs as it should there is your answer. And its a cheap way to check without spending money unnecessarily.
From what you have shown there are two issues: alignment and fuel delivery. With rest and time the alignment can be improved to minimize vibration. The fuel delivery may be more challenging. Removing fuel, purging, cleaning or replacing all the components (tanks, pipes, hoses, filters). Start at the engine and work backwards to the tank or vice versa. Prior to all that laborious work, determine if it is possible to make another access hatch on the other side of the baffle. Hopefully allowing a probe to view the tank innards. Hoses/fuel lines can be removed to determine degradation.
If I were to guess I would say you have fuel "bugs" and fuel algae or fungus. You need to clean it out as much as you can and then start using a fuel biocide to kill it off and keep it killed off. In addition, install another fuel screening system where your fuel comes out of the tank to prevent it from getting in your fuel lines and install a prescreen on your fuel pipe intake. This problem is quite common in the aviation industry and they use triple redundancy or more on their fuels filtration systems at the tank to keep it out of the fuel lines themselves. I would also strongly suggest that you re-design your fuel tank so the entire top can be removed to service it properly. You should also replace all your fuel lines or "pig" them out to remove any foreign material inside the lines. When left to sit, Jet B will grow tons of this crap and it has to be cleaned out and treated with biocide. The petrochemical fertilizer business has much the same problem with algae growing in the liquid fertilizer. If your tank is metal you must keep a watch for leakage since the carcasses of the dead algae in the tank will coat the tank walls and are extremely corrosive. One solution to this problem is to use antifouling coatings meant for the exterior of the hull and line the inside of your fuel tank with them. The copper based biocide in these coatings keep the algae from growing as it leaches out of the coating to the surface and kills on contact. And before you ask, yes, I have some experience with this type of problem and worked with a couple of coating makers and oil companies to try to mitigate it as much as possible.
Without sounding crazy , you have got what we call in the trade "Diesel Bug". Diesel will not turn your rubber lines into coal. Diesel bug can lead to all sorts of problems including clogging filters and causing the engine to cut out. Equally crud and sludge build up in the tank could cause similar problems. Check out Marine16 and diesel dippers.
😪 Been there. Old boats seem to always have at least one major problem that was never fixed by the last owners. Maybe they never knew it was a problem, or could not / would not figure it out. Perhaps that is why it never went anywhere when they had it. Mine had a cracked cylinder, corroded electronics, illegal plumbing, worn out shaft seals, no zincs, etc. etc. On the bright side, once it is all fixed and running smoothly you will be even more married to the boat and proud of your accomplishments. It's easy to get frustrated and depressed. It's a learning experience. Call it training. Now, if something happens at sea with these systems, you are more likely able to do repairs from the knowledge gained that others might never have experienced. 😌
Plum in a day tank centrifuge before your main fuel filter which will allow the big pieces of the algae, that's what you're seeing. I had a large Hatteras when I lived in Florida, spent eleven years working in the marine diesel industry, I made my own centrifuge.
That’s what old diesel varnish looks like. It breaks down and becomes a gum and over time will go hard and black. You will find it everywhere that diesel has sat for a long period of time, including coating the hoses. STAR BRITE Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner or a similar product can be used to eliminate the issue. Both gasoline and diesel will go gummy then sludge, then hard if left over a couple of years. Fuel can even go gummy after 3 months if left sitting without additives. You’re pretty much guaranteed that the engines weren’t winterized each season, so yes there will be lumps of ‘Simon’s coal’ ( that should be the new technical term for it) thru out the system.
What I like about you guys, is you're not afraid to show the rough as well as the smooth. It gives your videos a real authenticity. Hang in there, everything with come good in the end
Had a machine once that was fitted with a Detroit GM 4-71. It started bogging down under load, so we done the usual things, filters, injectors etc but to no avail. Eventually we checked the fuel suction line and found it had swollen inwards over its life and was restricting flow. The problem was that they had used hydraulic hose for diesel which wasn't suitable. Simple new hose fixed the issue after two days of frustration.
Fuel without good stabilizers turns into varnish over time, so I would say what you are finding in the fuel system is hardened varnish. You should be able to find a fuel additive to dissolve the varnish. Injector clean should have a varnish dissolver in it. I would put a large amount in both fuel tanks and then run the engines enough to get it into the cylinders. Good luck, David.
Keep your spirits up. You will get this working fine. when we took our diesel tank out to clean even after rinsing it with petrol it looked clean until we put the tank cleaner in, the amount of sludge that then appeared was frightening in what looked like a clean tank. Unfortunately taking the tanks out was the only way to fully clean the system and yes we replaced, pipes filters and fuel. Keep up the amazing work on both boats. Poppy’s crew
Hi guys, you appear to have what's called blackjack or diesel bug in your tanks and filters. It forms when diesel sweats in the tanks and forms condensation which starts to grow microorganisms. You need to add a diesel fuel additive to kill it and always keep your fuel tanks full to eliminate the condensation. I would replace all your fuel lines, clean the racors thoroughly and keep a few spare filters on board, put in the additive and maybe polish the fuel you have before adding new fuel. Look at Diesel as a living fuel and stuff will grow in it. Most times a diesel engine will only stop for either a fuel or air problem. good luck with it. Luv all your videos.
Probably a bit late now but maybe you should try sourcing the fuel from the other tank. Also the engine alignment is critical as if left it will lead to bearing failures and so forth. Not an easy task in minimal space but necessary. Good luck. Ian
Get your engines laser aligned if you can. You will also need to re-chock the engines. You did not seem to blue the propeller tapers , this is important. The propeller is not turned by the key but the taper.
Thats an absolute bummer. I feel the frustration. To mirror davidelliott's comment below, the 'coal' looks like hard rubber to me. I could be wrong, but hopefully its something as simple as that. I used to service Hydraulic Aircraft jacks. The big ones they use to lift the aircraft for maintance. They rarely lift their full capacity till annual test. I cycled a 60 ton jack up to max height and down again. All fine till it went into the test rig. It passed its test but wouldn't retract. I had to gingerly crack a nut on the lined to release pressure. The problem was the inner core of the only rubber hose between the reservoir and pump had broken up and blocked the system. Like supplying fuel to your engines under load; the high flow is possibly pulling this crap through the system. The boat looked good when running and handled well. Keep your spirits up; you'll get it sorted. Every faith in Simon.
That's old rubber from fuel lines - you must change them all. Suggest that as a fire-precaution you consider copper fuel lines as well - put a loop at engine ends to avoid movement stresses, you won't be getting that "coal" problem again. Bite the bullet friends - change the lines, David E has advised you aright!
Here in Australia we have a saying about boat -(Bring Out Another Thousand) , your diagnosis is pretty accurate old rubber and new diesel are not a good combination, the only suggestion I have is replace all fuel lines and the vibration could be even though the shafts and props were straightened were they balanced after the reconnection to the motors , just a suggestion but I’ve seen this before and balancing was the cure , I know it’s down heartening and bloody expensive but it is a learning curve for you for the future , keep your heads up remember there are a lot of people out here in UA-cam land watching and swearing at the machine with you, all the best from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
You need to install a wire mesh fuel strainer on the line from the tank and before the fuel filters and it will catch all those particles but keep a good flow of Diesel,we use them on locomotive to remove the large particles.
You’ll sort it, it’s had some dirty stuff in there at one time, like you have already said what is it, has the fuel line been replaced, it might the inner wall braking down. We’ve had the same thing with one of our Military Trucks, we found the steel tank was bleed rust fine dust, although we cleaned the tank a few times as well as clearing the fuel lines, Carburettor, it turned out to be very extra fine rust dust kept blocking the carburettor fuel flow. We fitted a new stainless steel tank and solved our problem. Hope you get it sorted, good luck.
Seen something similar on a video about a canal boat that had been sat for years. They got some mobile "fuel doctor" in - he pumped out all the fuel and filtered it several times with some specialist gear that removes all particulates and water and treated with additive that fixes diesel bug. They then pumped some stuff in to remove rust and solids that had formed in the tank and that sat for a while before it was all pumped out and jet washed internally. Flushed umpteen times until there was nothing in samples of flush then refilled with the treated fuel. I cant remember what it cost but it weren't cheap! The junk in the fuel looked similar.
So been there, happens way too often for my liking. The pressure you put yourself under! You guys have done an amazing job on that boat, of course things won’t work straight away. You’ll look back on this time and drink to the memories while in a bar next to some harbour, exchanging stories with other sailors. Hope it all works out and I’ll look out for you at the boat show.
If you ever get the itch to buy an old, banged up boat that has been sitting for years.......watch this series, it's like an intervention. Then don't walk, run to some hobby more sane or pay the $$$ for a working boat in good shape. Cheaper in the long run.
I think you also found out how the previous owner ran aground...he probably lost power.... Keep going, you guys are pretty ingenious. You'll come up with a work-around.
With reference to the engine and prop shaft alignment misalignment- it would have been reasonable to expect to have revisited that once afloat because the hull will adopt a slightly different position to being on the hard. Judging only be the video of the two sea trials you were over fuelling for the air being supplied . Edit just seen you find the turbo Well done for persevering .
Let's see....no pain no gain? Sarinda will be a doddle after this.....seriously, this is one challenge I am certain you guys can overcome. Just think of the satisfaction and the freedom when you do. It's gonna happen!! Great work on Sarinda by the way. The old girl is feeling very much loved again. ☺
Hoover on blow was a good idea, but maybe not quite enough blow.... My guess is that there's a fuel line that's degraded and lumps are breaking off the inner wall, aided and abetted by the bouncing around during the sea trials. Probably a real pain to pull the lines to either "bore them out", or replace them.
We can see the strain on your faces in this video. The series of inevitable problem that occur when a vessel has been laid up for an extended period, especially after a prop strike, can feel like it is sucking the life out of you and your bank account. These are all normal recommisioning issues (apart from the engine alignment, that should have been picked up on reassembly, call it a learning curve). It's usually best to remove the engines and run them up out of the boat. Attend to all potential fuel system (including turbos), cooling system and electrical system issue, then reassemble and align. Even then problems in a boat this age can continue to surface for some time. It's a really tough business. Even doing the bulk of the labour yourselves its still incredibly difficult not to over capitilise on the project. It can seem endless and if you cant afford to keep going that is what it becomes. You guys are doing really well. As soon as I saw that composite fuel hose with the black lining I guessed you could have some major issues on the way, the stuck turbo doesn't bode well either but if you can push on and get to a point where your back to focusing on normal preventative maintence you will have succeded. Its a lovely boat and it deserves to be returned to service by a couple of die hard enthusiast like yourselves. Great videos. Love the ML videos too, a mates brother is restoring an ML here in NZ. If you can do that job you'll get through this lot ok. Don't panic, keep calm and carry on! 😊😢🎉
Thanks for responding , yes it was the port engine i was mistaken i was watching the stern of your boat at the exchaust. Thanks for responding. i wish you and wife and family a nice weekend: Regards Daniel:
Frozen turbo is common with water to coolant engines. Don’t race the engines and let the turbo cool / run down. Make a fuel cross over feed line to you can get fuel from the other side. This to see if the engine it self is ok . Cross feed is nice to have anyway. My boat as a separate fuel pump and filter with water separator unit. Only to keep cycling the fuel. Tank to tank.
I do miss the day I worked on boats. Love the sound of that turbo spooling up. Never had them on the old Listers and Kelvins I worked on. I'm sure you will both get things sorted then you can start to enjoy trips with the family.
Bio diesel/ethanol does that to old fuel lines, its getting back to the tank via the return lines, you are going to have to change every rubber fuel line upto and away from the filters with a modern diesel resistance hose after you have cleaned the tanks, from the filters to the fuel/rails should be solid lines so they will be OK, good luck peeps 👍
I know in hindsight it may not seem like much, but think about this, look at where you were. You were on the water in your boat, getting a shower in your shower, and sleeping in your bed, on your boat. It's little things that make it worthwhile, good luck guys you'll get it done. You got my attention.
That's par for the course sea trial. But: Which diesel had the previous owner left in the tanks? This smells of biodiesel (RME). It is totally incompatible with rubber fuel hoses and seals. Only use proper RME-free marine diesel. And even if you have a fully RME compliant fuel system, you still have the problem with the forming of microbes in the interface between the water and fuel in the tanks and filters. To make matters worse, biodiesel is a lot more hydroscopic than proper (marine diesel) Ideally you should use GasOil-16, but you have to check the maximum allowed sulphur amount both on the engine and regulatory side. Sulphur is very good for pump lubrication, but less good for the environment.
If you think back on the damage that the props and shafts took it doesn’t surprise me that the engines were probably yanked out of alignment. As for the fuel problem it looked like rubber fuel lines which are disintegrating due to old age.
Lots of how-to info on the internet. BTB, I have been a happy (but poor--I used to have a sailboat 😬) follower. Keep up the good work!! LOVE your posts!
Be very careful with fuel delivery issues. Much like a 2 stroke gas motor, without proper fuel you lose lubrication and cooling effect. Lean conditions kill many motors and those aren't cheap.
The only time I have seen "coal" in a fuel tank is in a fuel depot where heavy fuel oil was stored. This is the type of oil supplied to fuel large industrial boilers and oil fired steam turbine ships. Is it possible the previous owner was supplied with the wrong product, or with diesel contaminated with heavy oil?
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The theory on incorrect fuel pipes is a good one. This is an old boat that will have rubber fuel lines. Today’s diesel contains vegetable based esters, which turn rubber into hard coal. I think you need to replace every fuel hose in the boat. And flush out every steel pipe to remove the “coal”.
Yes you are right on the money there - cut open the lines too
I was thinking the same thing those things look like chuncks of hose.
Soon as I saw the black inner fuel line, I got the same feeling.
My problem with my OLD boat was diesel bug, I'd tried circulating filters, polishing, new lines etc. Cured it in the end with new engines fuel system and two tanks.
I am sure its the NEW diesel, when changing the rubber lines don't forget the diesel will also eat any rubber joints in connectors filters etc so change them as well!
I was thinking the same thing but couldn’t figure out why it was inside the tank unless it’s coming in through a return line but that’s all guessing
What you thought a smaller boat would be less troubles? The issues are just closer together.
😂😂😂 Never thought of it like that before
Next week, Simon and Gemma ditch the engines and build a mast
I don't see why any proper mechanic would have approved that misalignment when certifying it as ready for use safely.
Use a temporary day tank. Then have the tanks polished.
probably fixed by now, a 12 gal tank from outboard connect straight to filter. If it works---- you know where problem isnt.
As a boat owner I feel your pain. I had all sorts of issues with my first boat and went from one crisis to the next. Two engine rebuilds later I had a working boat, then a partial sinking meant a new starter motor, alternator and battery. That was three boats ago and now I have a lovely boat and great days sailing. What I mean by all this is that it will work itself out in the end. I wish you every success. You both deserve it.
al;l those should have been checked and rechecked.
High quality production with the usual realities of boat life. May I suggest (with no great experience other than old bangers and motorcycles) that these chunks could be from the linings of hoses and lines affected by the fuel over many years. Are the main filler pipes to the tanks metal? In the past has a fuel filter disintegrated? It appears to be just one engine affected, interesting. Simon you WILL fix of course. Here we have the makings of another epic U-Tube channel.
Agreed, the hoses may have degraded over time but what if someone changed a hose in the past for one that was not diesel rated? It might be worth biting the bullet and re-plumbing the fuel delivery system with quality diesel fuel hose and metal hard lines where you can. The fuel tank will probably need cleaning out as well. The coal reminds me of the partially burnt fuel that coated the inside of all the cams and gear around an injector on a Merc engine that I had, of course it can't be unburnt/semi-burnt fuel but that is how diesel can degrade.
On the alignment of the props a double cardan between the output flange and the prop could solve the misalignment issue or maybe a rubber coupling that must be available for the torque (Porsche used to use guibo joints on the output shafts of their Can Am racer that produced 1100bhp and they were under considerably more stress than your props). I would imagine that the damage inflicted on the props knocked the engines out of alignment.
Welcome to the wonderful world of “fix your boat”. I’m sure at this point you now understand why boats get abandoned.
The financial constraints often make it impossible to do what you eventually realize is necessary. It’s a big challenge. As frustrating as this experience has been, you are learning. Many of us have been where you are. Seeing Simon standing in the bilge between the engines, surrounded by tools brought back many memories from 50 years ago!
The truth of owning larger boats is you probably spend as much or more time on maintenance as you do enjoying the boat. But, in the end this is going to help you manage Sarinda.
You guys are just awesome, a massive inspiration. There's no mountain you two can't conquer and you still manage to put out a video despite all the grief.
Fingers crossed you get a bit of luck and can sort it quickly 🤞
"How dare you!!!" LOL!!! You could always do an auction with your bits of coal ... might help cover the costs of the pulling back out!
Great video you two. Remember the time when you had a crazy idea to do up a boat, depite neither of you having any ship building / repair experience? Now look at you, great team work and your cobined skil set have made fantastic progress with Sarinda. I have no worries at all that you will get the issues resolved and have great family times at sea. 🙂
God bless you for your patience with the boat and not turning on each other. ♥
I know it's discouraging, but what you are seeing is not particularly awful for a boat that hasn't been used recently. Shafts are hard to align, but you'll get them right. Your fuel problems won't go away until you clean out your tank, but once you do you will feel like total experts on how to clean it up. You are learning and you are learning fast. Keep it up and in a few years down the line you will be amazed at the reliability and confidence you have achieved. (Edit: this brings back memories of my Tiara Open. One of the best things I ever did was empty my tanks, heavily scrub them with soap and water and degreaser, power wash, rinse, then rinse with mineral spirits)
I’ve just rebuilt a car diesel engine that was coked with soot. But when I got into the job there’s was lots of messed up stuff. Nothing was especially expensive but it did demand a full strip and rebuild. Anything less would only have bitten me later.
The tanks might not be especially dirty. However, you will need to replace ALL rubber fuel lines and blow through all metal pipes. Methyl ester (biodiesel) turns rubber into hard coal. Even silicone rubber can’t handle it. Modern diesel contains about 10% biodiesel. It also loosens sludge from the tank bottom.
It’s probably wise to check the injection pumps as they might have rubber seals.
@@Dave5843-d9m This is correct. Additionally biodiesel (RME) is very bad due to the buildup of microbial contamination (Diesel bugs) in the tanks and filters. Use only marine diesel that is RME free.
I would suggest the problem is degradation of any old rubber hoses. Diesel now has bio derived addatives similar to the situation with petrol. Both fuels require modern tubing if problems are to be avoided. For petrol the standard is SAEJ30R9. Not sure if it is the same for diesel. Looks like you will not only have to rinse out the tanks but will also have to replace all the lines. If any team have the fortitude to overcome these issues then you two certainly have. Good luck.
Black deposits could have been in the fuel pipes/tubes and it is slowly breaking off. Probably restricting the pipes on the low power engine. Worth changing all the fuel pipes or at least removing them and rodding through. Only place I can think it is coming from as your tanks were clean and you did the filters.
i was going to say this too.
They posted pictures of the fuel tanks and they were full of deposits.
You might have to loosen the p brVketd to get the alignment right. Then retighten
I don't think they were until after they ran the engines properly in the water. They almost emptied the fuel tank in a previous episode and they were clean from what I remember.
@@neilfuller3172my thoughts exactly. It could be the inner of the return line if this cycles back to the tank. I've had these lines break down on an outboard before. However, I am also fairly sure Simon would have checked this before removing the tank, I guess we will see next time!
I got clogged fuel filters very often until I cleaned the fuel tanks. I have mild steel tanks that hadn't been cleaned since the boat was built in 1986. There were no inspection holes so I cut two Ø 50 mm holes with a hole saw. Flushed out a couple of kg of rust and gunk with the pressure washer. Then the filter problem was solved but a couple of days later, I found one of the tanks had a small dripping leak. The rust had kept it tight and then a small pore opened. I sprayed the inside with Por 15 tank sealant and since then, no problem. Removing the tanks would require removing the engines so I'm very glad the tank sealant worked.
Did you check the tank breather ?? Insects build nests in pipes !! The alignment can ONLY be done afloat and looking back you used a lot of sideways force to remove the P bracket which possibly has put it all out of alignment.
NOoooo don’t lose morale Simon just look back at what you’ve both taken on and I think you’ve both broke it’s back, for all you’ve done in the past your new boat has teething problems that I’d be confident in knowing you Can sort it. It’s another learning curve and think of the happier days your family and friends can have on the high seas, you have to take the rough with the smooth and going back to my days at sea I remember weighing it up and there were far more good and fun days. Wishing you Gemma and family many many happy sailing days ahead.
HAHAHAHA @7:48 burning those fossilized dinosaurs and the kid with mental problems and the ear of many of the worlds "leaders" giving you the "how dare you" was a master stroke of funny editing. Made me spray my coffee
I suspect getting those tanks out and changing the fuel hoses will be the way forwards. Good luck!
Hang on in there guys! You are such an inspiration and the biggest challenges often turn out to generate the biggest successes I’m sure you know that x
Hi Simon, others have suggested to replace the fuel lines with new. Also might want to check the conditions of the engine mounts specially if they’re rubber.
Anyone who has messed around with boats feels right with you. It will be worth it! I add my vote for replacing all the fuel lines. The coal looks like the lining of the hose, hardened with age. Suggestion: add a clear filter housing with no filter right after the tank so solid bits can settle out and you can see any that might be in the system. Like a water trap, but for large particles. You could also add a screen to the pickup tube in the tank. Both of these are to get any bits in the pump or hard lines.
When you align the engine, you need to get top-bottom as well as left-right.
We're right behind you! You will do it!
Owning a boat is akin to digging a hole down the garden and keep throwing money in it.
I'm confident that most of you are familiar with the old "Best 2 days of a boat owner are, etc. etc.
However, the period between those 2 days generates another adage -- Definition of a boat: "A large hole in the water, into which the owner pours money (almost daily)."
No Terry, we have never heard that one before ... ya think?
Once you get your fuel system clean, I would dose the fuel with an antibacterial additive.
As a mechanic with 45 years behind me, the main issue you have is the fuel lines, today they are steel or at least a sintered alloy to prevent what you have now. Save yourselves a lot of pain and change them out, its relatively easy and the difference will be clean fuel. As for the vibration, if it is motor/shaft misalignment try use a laser alignment tool, cheap and absolutely accurate. Good luck, you are closer to the finish line than the start line.
+1 with the day tank idea. That some hose in the fuel system is degrading from the inside out is feasible too.
Hi, I had a 56ft Boat in Spain, and very similar problems, I totally agree all new fuel lines, and what we ended up with was a string of pre filters reducing in size and also run a very good additive.
Happy boating
Peter
Guys I haven’t read all the posts but I have read quite a few so may I suggest that you rig up a temporary tank with fresh fuel disconnect your existing lines and hook up to the temp tank this will get you going so you can relocate just make sure you have a spare top up tank of fuel to make sure you have enough fuel to get you home ,…oh needles to say strap your temp tank down to secure it safely?. I recon this will do the job good luck Dave
You're feeling defeated and tired, but you're both so resilient and so brilliant at problem solving you'll get the job done. Wish I could help financially but I watched all the adverts from start to finish to help increase your revenue a bit!! Good luck, love watching your vids x
Boat = break out another thousand
Hopefully another 10 thousand each engine rofl 😂
Hiya
So sorry thst uou sre having problems. Can i make two suggestions. One, as the hull has been out of the water on blocks and stands, it had probably taken up a very slight diffrrent shape. Now its back in the water it is gradually returning to normal, hence your alignment issues. Two,can you not use some 5 gallon plastic tanks of known clean diesel to get you home.
Good luck, love all your videos.
Chris and Claire. el Campello Spain
0:31
Good suggestion. Use temporary tanks to bypass trouble and if that solves the problem use them to get home and final solution. (I know, I know, you've already decided to return to the hard)
You both are an inspiration to all, from another boater who is doing the same of recommissioning a boat that has done nothing for 4 years you show the highs and lows, keep up the good work and when it’s done you’ll laugh at the lows….
Love the Greta bit had me crying 🤣
I’m so sorry that you are suffering these problems, you both have a great attitude despite the problems . Good luck ❤️
You two are so resilient and resourceful. You have amazingly good (no great) inventive and logical problem solving minds. I know you will get to the bottom (of them tank) of the issue and find the problem/solution. Cannot wait for the next episode 👍👍👍🙂
Sounds like new fuel lines are in order. It sounds like you have crystallized fuel in the fuel lines which means you will continue fighting this until it finally flushed out completely. Keep your head up mate, you’ve come so far! 👍👍🎉🎉🎉🎉🎉🤘🏻🤘🏻
Remember the new fuel E10 is more corrosive than E5 so it will not decrease in the future. You must also remember that any diaphragm in the system will lose its capacity due to the adverse effect of these fuels. So change lines as suggested, clean tanks and change any diaphragms in system and any odd misfires might have an injector issue. You will get over this but take your time because there are no stop offs offshore! 😮 Now be positive and enjoy your company!
Is there a "hot tank" there to cook out the old fuel? Then wash, wash it. Good luck and yes better on sea trials than at sea.
I had a problem with my port engine staying at high idle after a run. It's been this way for 2 seasons and through 2 mechanics that couldn't figure it out . Thank goodness for UA-cam videos like yours. The problem was not systematic of the part failure and led me to other potential part failures. I finally found a video that described my problem and I bought the new part and fixed it. Be patient and if it's late and you're tired wait til the next day. Something my mother taught me years ago when I had no patience.
The fuel system is going to be where the fault lies. The reality is a full change of the fuel system. One easy way to check is use a separate fuel tank And bypass the filter system direct to the engine. If the engine runs as it should there is your answer. And its a cheap way to check without spending money unnecessarily.
You should have pumped out all of the diesel, cleaned the tanks and replaced all fuel lines along with all fuel filters.
From what you have shown there are two issues: alignment and fuel delivery. With rest and time the alignment can be improved to minimize vibration. The fuel delivery may be more challenging. Removing fuel, purging, cleaning or replacing all the components (tanks, pipes, hoses, filters). Start at the engine and work backwards to the tank or vice versa. Prior to all that laborious work, determine if it is possible to make another access hatch on the other side of the baffle. Hopefully allowing a probe to view the tank innards. Hoses/fuel lines can be removed to determine degradation.
If I were to guess I would say you have fuel "bugs" and fuel algae or fungus. You need to clean it out as much as you can and then start using a fuel biocide to kill it off and keep it killed off. In addition, install another fuel screening system where your fuel comes out of the tank to prevent it from getting in your fuel lines and install a prescreen on your fuel pipe intake. This problem is quite common in the aviation industry and they use triple redundancy or more on their fuels filtration systems at the tank to keep it out of the fuel lines themselves. I would also strongly suggest that you re-design your fuel tank so the entire top can be removed to service it properly. You should also replace all your fuel lines or "pig" them out to remove any foreign material inside the lines.
When left to sit, Jet B will grow tons of this crap and it has to be cleaned out and treated with biocide. The petrochemical fertilizer business has much the same problem with algae growing in the liquid fertilizer. If your tank is metal you must keep a watch for leakage since the carcasses of the dead algae in the tank will coat the tank walls and are extremely corrosive. One solution to this problem is to use antifouling coatings meant for the exterior of the hull and line the inside of your fuel tank with them. The copper based biocide in these coatings keep the algae from growing as it leaches out of the coating to the surface and kills on contact.
And before you ask, yes, I have some experience with this type of problem and worked with a couple of coating makers and oil companies to try to mitigate it as much as possible.
Totally correct
Without sounding crazy , you have got what we call in the trade "Diesel Bug". Diesel will not turn your rubber lines into coal. Diesel bug can lead to all sorts of problems including clogging filters and causing the engine to cut out. Equally crud and sludge build up in the tank could cause similar problems. Check out Marine16 and diesel dippers.
😪 Been there. Old boats seem to always have at least one major problem that was never fixed by the last owners. Maybe they never knew it was a problem, or could not / would not figure it out. Perhaps that is why it never went anywhere when they had it. Mine had a cracked cylinder, corroded electronics, illegal plumbing, worn out shaft seals, no zincs, etc. etc. On the bright side, once it is all fixed and running smoothly you will be even more married to the boat and proud of your accomplishments. It's easy to get frustrated and depressed. It's a learning experience. Call it training. Now, if something happens at sea with these systems, you are more likely able to do repairs from the knowledge gained that others might never have experienced. 😌
Plum in a day tank centrifuge before your main fuel filter which will allow the big pieces of the algae, that's what you're seeing. I had a large Hatteras when I lived in Florida, spent eleven years working in the marine diesel industry, I made my own centrifuge.
That’s what old diesel varnish looks like. It breaks down and becomes a gum and over time will go hard and black. You will find it everywhere that diesel has sat for a long period of time, including coating the hoses. STAR BRITE Star Tron Fuel Tank Cleaner or a similar product can be used to eliminate the issue. Both gasoline and diesel will go gummy then sludge, then hard if left over a couple of years. Fuel can even go gummy after 3 months if left sitting without additives. You’re pretty much guaranteed that the engines weren’t winterized each season, so yes there will be lumps of ‘Simon’s coal’ ( that should be the new technical term for it) thru out the system.
The Gretta moment.. video of the year!! Literally lmao!!!😂😂😂😂😅
What I like about you guys, is you're not afraid to show the rough as well as the smooth. It gives your videos a real authenticity. Hang in there, everything with come good in the end
Several cups of tea and a few Mars bars and Simon will have it fixed. Nothing stops him. 👍🎣
Had a machine once that was fitted with a Detroit GM 4-71. It started bogging down under load, so we done the usual things, filters, injectors etc but to no avail. Eventually we checked the fuel suction line and found it had swollen inwards over its life and was restricting flow. The problem was that they had used hydraulic hose for diesel which wasn't suitable. Simple new hose fixed the issue after two days of frustration.
Fuel without good stabilizers turns into varnish over time, so I would say what you are finding in the fuel system is hardened varnish. You should be able to find a fuel additive to dissolve the varnish. Injector clean should have a varnish dissolver in it. I would put a large amount in both fuel tanks and then run the engines enough to get it into the cylinders. Good luck, David.
Keep your spirits up. You will get this working fine. when we took our diesel tank out to clean even after rinsing it with petrol it looked clean until we put the tank cleaner in, the amount of sludge that then appeared was frightening in what looked like a clean tank. Unfortunately taking the tanks out was the only way to fully clean the system and yes we replaced, pipes filters and fuel. Keep up the amazing work on both boats. Poppy’s crew
Bless, you still manage a smile even when it’s all going to rats. It’s so frustrating but we know you’ll succeed.
Modern diesil has bio fuel in it . If you leave it it goes mouldy and lumpy.
Problems with the fuel is often a tankless job... Tank goodness for skilled mechanics.
Fuel lines are breaking down. Replace them problem solved. Also always carry extra fuel filters with you
What doesn't kill you will only make you stronger,, you guys so got this,, hang in there...
Hi guys, you appear to have what's called blackjack or diesel bug in your tanks and filters. It forms when diesel sweats in the tanks and forms condensation which starts to grow microorganisms. You need to add a diesel fuel additive to kill it and always keep your fuel tanks full to eliminate the condensation. I would replace all your fuel lines, clean the racors thoroughly and keep a few spare filters on board, put in the additive and maybe polish the fuel you have before adding new fuel. Look at Diesel as a living fuel and stuff will grow in it. Most times a diesel engine will only stop for either a fuel or air problem. good luck with it.
Luv all your videos.
Probably a bit late now but maybe you should try sourcing the fuel from the other tank. Also the engine alignment is critical as if left it will lead to bearing failures and so forth. Not an easy task in minimal space but necessary. Good luck. Ian
Get your engines laser aligned if you can. You will also need to re-chock the engines. You did not seem to blue the propeller tapers , this is important. The propeller is not turned by the key but the taper.
No stopping you two, never seen that problem, maybe tanks out and then clean. Go for it
Thats an absolute bummer. I feel the frustration. To mirror davidelliott's comment below, the 'coal' looks like hard rubber to me. I could be wrong, but hopefully its something as simple as that. I used to service Hydraulic Aircraft jacks. The big ones they use to lift the aircraft for maintance. They rarely lift their full capacity till annual test. I cycled a 60 ton jack up to max height and down again. All fine till it went into the test rig. It passed its test but wouldn't retract. I had to gingerly crack a nut on the lined to release pressure. The problem was the inner core of the only rubber hose between the reservoir and pump had broken up and blocked the system. Like supplying fuel to your engines under load; the high flow is possibly pulling this crap through the system. The boat looked good when running and handled well. Keep your spirits up; you'll get it sorted. Every faith in Simon.
I feel it for the both of you, fingers crossed for things to work well.
That's old rubber from fuel lines - you must change them all. Suggest that as a fire-precaution you consider copper fuel lines as well - put a loop at engine ends to avoid movement stresses, you won't be getting that "coal" problem again. Bite the bullet friends - change the lines, David E has advised you aright!
Here in Australia we have a saying about boat -(Bring Out Another Thousand) , your diagnosis is pretty accurate old rubber and new diesel are not a good combination, the only suggestion I have is replace all fuel lines and the vibration could be even though the shafts and props were straightened were they balanced after the reconnection to the motors , just a suggestion but I’ve seen this before and balancing was the cure , I know it’s down heartening and bloody expensive but it is a learning curve for you for the future , keep your heads up remember there are a lot of people out here in UA-cam land watching and swearing at the machine with you, all the best from Tasmania Australia 🇦🇺
You need to install a wire mesh fuel strainer on the line from the tank and before the fuel filters and it will catch all those particles but keep a good flow of Diesel,we use them on locomotive to remove the large particles.
its why you have sea trials, remember even the HMS Prince of Wales had teething problems.
At the end of the vlog at least your shafts were straight and Gemma had a smile on her face 👍🤣😂🤣
Great video, you are both such positive people, nothing really phases you. Looking forward to the next episode 👏👏
NO next week it’s reported they won the lottery and take the whole family under their wing. what super super fine English Gentry.
You’ll sort it, it’s had some dirty stuff in there at one time, like you have already said what is it, has the fuel line been replaced, it might the inner wall braking down.
We’ve had the same thing with one of our Military Trucks, we found the steel tank was bleed rust fine dust, although we cleaned the tank a few times as well as clearing the fuel lines, Carburettor, it turned out to be very extra fine rust dust kept blocking the carburettor fuel flow.
We fitted a new stainless steel tank and solved our problem.
Hope you get it sorted, good luck.
Seen something similar on a video about a canal boat that had been sat for years. They got some mobile "fuel doctor" in - he pumped out all the fuel and filtered it several times with some specialist gear that removes all particulates and water and treated with additive that fixes diesel bug. They then pumped some stuff in to remove rust and solids that had formed in the tank and that sat for a while before it was all pumped out and jet washed internally. Flushed umpteen times until there was nothing in samples of flush then refilled with the treated fuel. I cant remember what it cost but it weren't cheap! The junk in the fuel looked similar.
So been there, happens way too often for my liking. The pressure you put yourself under! You guys have done an amazing job on that boat, of course things won’t work straight away. You’ll look back on this time and drink to the memories while in a bar next to some harbour, exchanging stories with other sailors. Hope it all works out and I’ll look out for you at the boat show.
If you ever get the itch to buy an old, banged up boat that has been sitting for years.......watch this series, it's like an intervention. Then don't walk, run to some hobby more sane or pay the $$$ for a working boat in good shape. Cheaper in the long run.
Diesel motors, diesel tanks grow stuff, the bouncing and sloshing breaks the stuff loose and clogs the lines and filters.
I think you also found out how the previous owner ran aground...he probably lost power.... Keep going, you guys are pretty ingenious. You'll come up with a work-around.
Normal boatlife. Nice to see you two. Especially Gemma.
dont let it beat you. try fuel supply from another temp tank.i wish i was closer i would help you sort it
With reference to the engine and prop shaft alignment misalignment- it would have been reasonable to expect to have revisited that once afloat because the hull will adopt a slightly different position to being on the hard. Judging only be the video of the two sea trials you were over fuelling for the air being supplied . Edit just seen you find the turbo
Well done for persevering .
Let's see....no pain no gain? Sarinda will be a doddle after this.....seriously, this is one challenge I am certain you guys can overcome. Just think of the satisfaction and the freedom when you do. It's gonna happen!! Great work on Sarinda by the way. The old girl is feeling very much loved again. ☺
Hoover on blow was a good idea, but maybe not quite enough blow....
My guess is that there's a fuel line that's degraded and lumps are breaking off the inner wall, aided and abetted by the bouncing around during the sea trials. Probably a real pain to pull the lines to either "bore them out", or replace them.
We can see the strain on your faces in this video. The series of inevitable problem that occur when a vessel has been laid up for an extended period, especially after a prop strike, can feel like it is sucking the life out of you and your bank account. These are all normal recommisioning issues (apart from the engine alignment, that should have been picked up on reassembly, call it a learning curve). It's usually best to remove the engines and run them up out of the boat. Attend to all potential fuel system (including turbos), cooling system and electrical system issue, then reassemble and align. Even then problems in a boat this age can continue to surface for some time. It's a really tough business. Even doing the bulk of the labour yourselves its still incredibly difficult not to over capitilise on the project. It can seem endless and if you cant afford to keep going that is what it becomes. You guys are doing really well. As soon as I saw that composite fuel hose with the black lining I guessed you could have some major issues on the way, the stuck turbo doesn't bode well either but if you can push on and get to a point where your back to focusing on normal preventative maintence you will have succeded. Its a lovely boat and it deserves to be returned to service by a couple of die hard enthusiast like yourselves. Great videos. Love the ML videos too, a mates brother is restoring an ML here in NZ. If you can do that job you'll get through this lot ok. Don't panic, keep calm and carry on! 😊😢🎉
Thanks for responding , yes it was the port engine i was mistaken i was watching the stern of your boat at the exchaust. Thanks for responding. i wish you and wife and family a nice weekend: Regards Daniel:
Frozen turbo is common with water to coolant engines. Don’t race the engines and let the turbo cool / run down.
Make a fuel cross over feed line to you can get fuel from the other side. This to see if the engine it self is ok .
Cross feed is nice to have anyway.
My boat as a separate fuel pump and filter with water separator unit. Only to keep cycling the fuel. Tank to tank.
I'm So sorry for you both. I do hope you get things sort soon. Fingers Crossed
I do miss the day I worked on boats. Love the sound of that turbo spooling up. Never had them on the old Listers and Kelvins I worked on. I'm sure you will both get things sorted then you can start to enjoy trips with the family.
She's delightful....the other 1/2 can go overboard but she's a keeper....
Damn, that looks frustrating! You two always just, crack on! Repeat after me. "this boat will be fun, this boat will be fun, this boat will be fun..."
Bio diesel/ethanol does that to old fuel lines, its getting back to the tank via the return lines, you are going to have to change every rubber fuel line upto and away from the filters with a modern diesel resistance hose after you have cleaned the tanks, from the filters to the fuel/rails should be solid lines so they will be OK, good luck peeps 👍
I know in hindsight it may not seem like much, but think about this, look at where you were. You were on the water in your boat, getting a shower in your shower, and sleeping in your bed, on your boat.
It's little things that make it worthwhile, good luck guys you'll get it done.
You got my attention.
That's par for the course sea trial. But: Which diesel had the previous owner left in the tanks? This smells of biodiesel (RME). It is totally incompatible with rubber fuel hoses and seals.
Only use proper RME-free marine diesel. And even if you have a fully RME compliant fuel system, you still have the problem with the forming of microbes in the interface between the water and fuel in the tanks and filters. To make matters worse, biodiesel is a lot more hydroscopic than proper (marine diesel) Ideally you should use GasOil-16, but you have to check the maximum allowed sulphur amount both on the engine and regulatory side. Sulphur is very good for pump lubrication, but less good for the environment.
Chin up. Patience and perseverance. You’ll get there. It’s a beautiful boat. Worth the effort.👍🏻
If you think back on the damage that the props and shafts took it doesn’t surprise me that the engines were probably yanked out of alignment. As for the fuel problem it looked like rubber fuel lines which are disintegrating due to old age.
Lots of how-to info on the internet. BTB, I have been a happy (but poor--I used to have a sailboat 😬) follower. Keep up the good work!! LOVE your posts!
Be very careful with fuel delivery issues. Much like a 2 stroke gas motor, without proper fuel you lose lubrication and cooling effect. Lean conditions kill many motors and those aren't cheap.
Man, you guys will get this sorted! It sucks now but some day soon you’ll look back on this and laugh.
The only time I have seen "coal" in a fuel tank is in a fuel depot where heavy fuel oil was stored. This is the type of oil supplied to fuel large industrial boilers and oil fired steam turbine ships. Is it possible the previous owner was supplied with the wrong product, or with diesel contaminated with heavy oil?