If I was to just get an m4 slip on and leave the cat in, would the sound still be better? Right now I can’t even really hear the bike when riding. I don’t wanna remove the cat and deal with retuning, I just don’t know how to do it myself or know of anyone that can do it.
R1 2015 to 2019 are titanium. Mt10, 2016 r1s and 20+ r1 are stainless and use the exact same header, since The part number is the same. The r1s and mt10 use a stainless header. The part number is the same on the 2020+ r1 and r1m... there's your conclusion
Did you have any issues with the mid pipe to the headers leaking?? Im on my third set of exhaust clamps and i still get a small leak of air which every now and then triggers my cel. Ive tightened down to the point where bolt snaps and the leak is still there
Strange, i've have had zero issues with mine. Even prior to a tune and disconnected 02 no codes. Might consider a tune so you can disconnect your sensor
From the 2023 Yamaha YZF-R1 page: Titanium Exhaust System The R1 is equipped with a muffler and heat shields manufactured primarily from lightweight titanium. From the Yamaha Motor Canada page: Mid-ship design 4-into-2-into-1 exhaust system features lightweight titanium header pipes and muffler for reduced weight
I'd be curious to know the weight difference between the stock silencer and an aftermarket one, perhaps a carbon fiber one. Last time I swapped pipes the stock system was over 10 pounds and the aftermarket was around 4.
Yes I did, no engine light until I sent the ecu to be flashed. Post flash, took two heat cycles for check engine to disappear. Bike feels like riding lightning now 😳
I can confirm the exhaust is titanium . Just by this one thing I noticed . I bought a 3/4 graves titanium exhaust and they both cool down within 10 mins after a long ride to the same temp. If it were stainless steel it would stay hot for a lot longer .
Is it possible to reinstall the middle heat shield that you remove at 6:10 to keep the stock appearance? Looks like it attaches to points on the cat that the replacement mid pipe doesn't have?
Anytime you change anything exhaust related it will impact the tune. That can range from don't ride to it will underperform a bit... Its best to retune
I see. I wanted to do the same mod with an M4 midpipe, stock can, and tune and get the m4 slip on later. I like as well get the M4 3/4 system so I don’t have to retune.
@@DirtGearTv @TheRsixpilot7 is correct, it's about torque, not emissions or noise primarily. The fact that you made that snarky comment tells us all what we need to know✌ To anyone watching clean the grime and fingerprints off the can before a heat cycle if yours is dirty as show in this video.
Depends on who you ask. The correct answer is if you want a healthy engine for many miles get the ecu flashed or bike dyno tuned to accommodate the exhaust changes 👍
Doing just the slip on won't affect your fueling too much so you'll be fine without a tune. It will get a bit louder but you won't see a performance bump unless you op for a tune
Maybe I'm missing something- why would he not need to loosen the nuts that hold the cables on? Are you saying to disconnect from the servo and pull through and leave attached to the valve?
@@alexdombi-weridetwo they work like brake cables push it the opposite way and they slide out… I suppose it doesn’t really matter because he was permanently removing it
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If I was to just get an m4 slip on and leave the cat in, would the sound still be better? Right now I can’t even really hear the bike when riding. I don’t wanna remove the cat and deal with retuning, I just don’t know how to do it myself or know of anyone that can do it.
@@tjmagicc It would be little bit louder but really you need to consider the mid pipe and let that baby sing 😎
R1 2015 to 2019 are titanium. Mt10, 2016 r1s and 20+ r1 are stainless and use the exact same header, since The part number is the same. The r1s and mt10 use a stainless header. The part number is the same on the 2020+ r1 and r1m... there's your conclusion
Did you have any issues with the mid pipe to the headers leaking?? Im on my third set of exhaust clamps and i still get a small leak of air which every now and then triggers my cel. Ive tightened down to the point where bolt snaps and the leak is still there
Ive contacted m4 and they just replaced the clamps for me but theres no way i keep getting bad clamps.
Strange, i've have had zero issues with mine. Even prior to a tune and disconnected 02 no codes. Might consider a tune so you can disconnect your sensor
2015 and up R1 all have titanium headers. I haven’t seen one that doesn’t have them.
From the 2023 Yamaha YZF-R1 page:
Titanium Exhaust System
The R1 is equipped with a muffler and heat shields manufactured primarily from lightweight titanium.
From the Yamaha Motor Canada page:
Mid-ship design 4-into-2-into-1 exhaust system features lightweight titanium header pipes and muffler for reduced weight
Do you have to retune is after install? Since you remove the cat?
@@tjmagicc I cover this in the video
What’s the best way to retune it? I don’t know of any dealerships around me that can tune bikes? Any suggestions?
I'd be curious to know the weight difference between the stock silencer and an aftermarket one, perhaps a carbon fiber one. Last time I swapped pipes the stock system was over 10 pounds and the aftermarket was around 4.
I was going to look into the cost of the carbon pipes
Did you install a servo buddy after removing the cat and before your initial start up? Did your check engine light ever come on after this?
Yes I did, no engine light until I sent the ecu to be flashed. Post flash, took two heat cycles for check engine to disappear. Bike feels like riding lightning now 😳
@DirtGearTv who did your flash? I might end up pulling mine this winter and having it done? But I want a reputable place to do it.
Cannot get my M4 mid pipe on the header pipes for my 24 R1. So im sooo confused on how easily you got it on so easily lol!
Really? Mine was a perfect fit!
I can confirm the exhaust is titanium . Just by this one thing I noticed . I bought a 3/4 graves titanium exhaust and they both cool down within 10 mins after a long ride to the same temp. If it were stainless steel it would stay hot for a lot longer .
Also would be hotter than the graves titanium link pipe and that’s not the case .
Is it possible to reinstall the middle heat shield that you remove at 6:10 to keep the stock appearance? Looks like it attaches to points on the cat that the replacement mid pipe doesn't have?
Unfortunately not, you are correct it attaches to brackets on the bread box
Thanks for sharing this. If I did a tune, M4 midpipe and stock muffler, would I need to retune if upgrading to a different shorty or long muffler?
Anytime you change anything exhaust related it will impact the tune. That can range from don't ride to it will underperform a bit... Its best to retune
I see. I wanted to do the same mod with an M4 midpipe, stock can, and tune and get the m4 slip on later. I like as well get the M4 3/4 system so I don’t have to retune.
The Xup valve has nothing to do with emissions, it’s to regulate back pressure
No, It's to reduce noise at idle. The fact that you think it needs back pressure tells me all I need to know 😉
@@DirtGearTv @TheRsixpilot7 is correct, it's about torque, not emissions or noise primarily. The fact that you made that snarky comment tells us all what we need to know✌ To anyone watching clean the grime and fingerprints off the can before a heat cycle if yours is dirty as show in this video.
So a tune is neccessary after this? 🤔
Depends on who you ask. The correct answer is if you want a healthy engine for many miles get the ecu flashed or bike dyno tuned to accommodate the exhaust changes 👍
My country doesn't allow the removal of the midpipes, say if i only change the endcan, do i need to retune the ECU?
Doing just the slip on won't affect your fueling too much so you'll be fine without a tune. It will get a bit louder but you won't see a performance bump unless you op for a tune
You have no clue, you didn’t need to loosen the nuts on the xup valve lol
Maybe I'm missing something- why would he not need to loosen the nuts that hold the cables on? Are you saying to disconnect from the servo and pull through and leave attached to the valve?
@@alexdombi-weridetwo they work like brake cables push it the opposite way and they slide out… I suppose it doesn’t really matter because he was permanently removing it