WLToys A959 High Speed RC Car Step-by-Step Upgrade #4: Full Metal Differentials!
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- Опубліковано 8 чер 2019
- Trouble-shooting, upgrading and testing out the complete package of WLToys A949/A959/A969/A979 1/18 4WD High Speed RC Car All Metal Differentials from Banggood! Includes complete instructions and demonstration.
So far so good! These 100% metal upgrade diffs work and look amazingly good ... in themselves. But more problems awaits us ... stay tuned!
The WLToys A959-B & A959 Versions and Upgrade Parts was kindly provided by Banggood, free for review and tests. Part numbers and links to each upgrade will be available in the description box of each instructional video.
WLtoys A959: www.banggood.com/Wltoys-A959-...
WLtoys A959-B: www.banggood.com/WLtoys-A959-...
New upgrade parts used for the all metal differentials:
1) T-Power 16PC Upgrade Parts Metal Gear Set for WLToys A949/A959/A969/A979:
www.banggood.com/TPOWER-16PC-...
2) WLToys A949/A959/A969/A979 Differential Box/Case (Single pack, two required):
www.banggood.com/WLtoys-A949-...
3) WLToys A959B/A969B/A979B Differential Cups/Outdrives (Stock on B-versions):
www.banggood.com/WLtoys-A959-...
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In this series you will learn how to upgrade an RC Car, step-by-step. You can find many more previous #WLToys videos and video series with the #WLToysA959, #WLToysA959B, #WLToysA959A and other models in the WLToys 1/18 4WD Vortex High Speed RC Car Line-up on both my channels.
Hope you will follow along in this series. Most upcoming upgrades are compatible with the WLToys #A959B/#A959A/#A949/#A969/#A969B/#A979/#A979B and other versions in the WLToys 1/18 4WD Vortex High Speed RC Car Series.
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WLToys A959 Specifications:
- Model Name: WLToys Vortex A959
- Black/Red & Blue/White body options
- Top Speed Specified to 45-50 kph/28-30 mph (measured to 40-42 kph)
- Shaft-Driven 4WD (4x4)
- Full proportional steering/throttle
- Bathtub type chassis
- Polycarbonate body & nose with plastic wing
- 1/18th scale
- Length: 245 mm
- Width: 175 mm
- Height: 94 mm
- Wheelbase: 165 mm
- Wheelspan: 105 mm
- Wheel diameter: 61 mm
- Wheel width: 28 mm
- Double Wishbone Suspension front/rear
- Differential Gear front/rear
- 17T Pinion and 38T Spur
- Plastic Diff Cups
- Plastic Main Drive Shaft
- Black wheels (with grey paint)
- 4 x Single Wheel Nuts
- Metal Wheel Drive Shafts
- Metal Motor- and Suspension Mounts
- Oil Filled Shocks (minimum or no oil on arrival)
- Electric 390 Type Brushed Motor w/ 390 mount
- 2-in-1 ESC/2.4 Ghz Receiver
- 2.4GHz 2-Channel Transmitter w/ steering and throttle trim
- 17 g. Mini-Servo
- JST-plug Connectors (ESC + Battery)
- 7.4v 2S 1100 mah LiPo Battery
- 7.4v 800 mah output balance Li-Ion/LiPo wall charger
- Run time specified to: about 10 min
- Charging time specified to: about 120-150 min
- Manual and plastic hex wrench included
- 4 x AA batteries required for transmitter (not included)
WLToys A959-B SPECIFICATIONS identical to the A959 except:
- Model Names: WLToys Vortex A959-B & WLToys Brave Pro
- Green/white/black body color scheme
- Top Speed specified to 70 kph/43 mph (measured to 58-59 kph)
- 540 Type Brushed Motor w/ 540 mount
- T-Plug Connectors (ESC + Battery)
- 27T Pinion and 42T Spur
- Metal Diff Cups
- Metal Main Drive Shaft
- White wheels (with grey paint)
- 4 x Double Wheel Nuts
- 7.4v 2S 1500 mah LiPo Battery
- Run time specified to: About 6 min
- Charging time: About 120-150 min
You can find specifications of the A959-A and A959 Factory Upgraded Version in Part 1 of this series.
Specifications may differ or change compared to the particular WLToys Vortex, Brave Pro and Storm CC units that I received. Please visit Banggood to see current specifications for units sold.
Ahhhh the transformation continues! Bravo, wonderful job!👍😊
Thanks, my friend. Yeah these work better 🙂
I love the look of machined up grade parts...thanks for sharing
Hi James! Yeah, me too. I could look at these all day. I was a bit sad when they had to be hidden inside again, he he :-) Thanks a lot for watching.
Wow! That's an amazing amount of added strength. It's gonna act so different. =)
Yeah, these are definitely much stronger and smoother. They are gonna add a little weight, which will probably effect top speed, but it can also improve handling. First test run didn't go that well though, new problems, but more about that later :-)
you video is very epic for just metal upgrade bro... nice... i like
Thank you for watching, Abdul!
At the end.. Great job my friend
Thanks a lot, Eros!
Saludos amigo Nordic RC Visions !! otro magnífico video de este cambio de piñoneria compañero , EHNORABUENA !! por el buen trabajo y gracias por compartirlo con nosotros . Saludos cordiales desde Canarias y ten feliz día mi buen amigo .
Subbed great videos just what I needed for my 979-B
Thank you, Mr. Mouse! Glad it was helpful.
Thanks Mikael - now we know not to try mixing the metal and plastic diff parts - only metal will do! Another wonderful installment! 👍👍👍
Thanks a lot for following along Mark, even if this car isn't exactly very Tamiya'ish :-) But love it for what it is. And yeah, metal on metal, hope people will get some good tips for what works together and what do not :-)
@@NordicRC Nice one Mikael - I even like some non-Tamiyaish RC's too!
Awesome job on the diff rebuilt bud!! Should be a lot stronger and smoother :)
Thanks, Chris! Yeah, they work really great. Encountered other problems later along the way, but I think that's part of the upgrade process :-)
Great upgrade Mikael 👍
Thanks, Charlie. Hope you are having fun with the micro-lights this weekend ;-)
I learned it!thanks
Thank you 🙂
Enjoyed 👍🏻
Thank you for the nice feedback, Cam row drone! I am glad.
Fabulous!
Thanks, Tony! Yeah, looks good.
Very good job!!! I´m thinking of buying one.
Regards from Spain.
Thank a lot for tuning in, Oscar. Greetings from the North.
Saw your post on bangood about the differential cases, great job man
Thanks a lot for watching, bro!
@@NordicRC in the video you noted how to build the differential, is there a separate video for that cuz I can't find it
A locked up diff in the rear wouldn’t be a bad thing, (that’s why race cars have spools or welded spider gears) but you still need that differential to work in the front for turning purposes.
I’ve never tried a buggy with a locked rear diff myself. Not a racer. But I like filling up the gear diffs with some heavy grease (like the Tamiya AW grease) for a limited slip effect. Great for off roading.
Lol I like what you do... Making sure it's all smooth before putting all together.. That's what I do.. I try my best to make it work very smooth and the way it should before I put everything together
Thanks, bro. Well, sometimes things don't go as planned even though one is careful :-) Check out the next video in a couple of days with this upgrade series lol :-)
@@NordicRC yep I follow yo upgrade video's... I got few extra diffs I had for my A959 so If I strip any I'll use those up then I'll go with metal.. so whatever I break I'll upgrade to metal.. I'm leaving the chassi/A arms/shock towers plastic tho
Yeah, definitely leave especially the arms plastic. I am thinking about trying out the Carbon chassis (not for bashing though) if there is any interest in the next video for it to continue.
@@NordicRC i would love to see it
Wow that's some serious upgrading that you are doing to those cars. Those parts look great. Amazing the amount of spares support that there is for these. If you keep doing upgrades then you might end up with Trigger's broom again (remember that?). Nice video as ever mate :-)
Hi Pete! Ahhh, yeah, the Trigger's broom, ha ha. I remember very well. I think in the end this one will most likely be a Trigger's broom indeed, but gonna take a while. Taking it slowly, step by step, and enjoying the process and the small changes. Thanks a lot, mate!
@@NordicRC If you keep upgrading long enough it might end up as an Xmaxx ! :-)
Good job good video
Thanks a lot, Simon!
it is incredibly annoying having to wait once a month to buy a single piece of cheap upgrade piece for my 959.. i get paid bi-weekly and one whole check +12$ish goes to one bill, and on the other check, only about half of it goes to another bill. Leaving 20-30 bucks once a month i can use to do whatever i want with. aka buying upgrades for my 959. lol. thats my newest project. I have the metal chassis, metal driveshaft, and metal arms. i also have a 4370kv brushless, 5k mah 60c 3s lipo, flysky gt3b, and 60amp esc that will eventually be in it. But i need a 540 motor mount. and i wont do that until i have 2 all metal diff cases and metal gears in the diffs. So slowly but surely im upgrading it. I love watching your videos and daydreaming about the parts ill be ordering. Ive watched so many 959 videos lately thats all youtube recommends to me anymore. lol.
keep up the awesome vids dude. Im lovin it.
Sounds like you got an awesome project going on there, mate. Would love to hear how it turns out in the end with all the new parts, and how it runs. These are fun projects. Thanks for the nice feedback too, mate. And recommendations to watch A9*9 videos here on youtube aren’t the worst recommendations 🙂 I watch them too 🙂
@@NordicRC yeah these are definitely very very fun projects. and i love how inexpensive the pieces are to upgrade. even a full titanium kit was only 71$. thats crazy cheap. Mass production is the key to inexpensiveness!! Im having a lot of fun upgrading.
I need help I want to use a differential in a very cheap rc car that only has 1 rod that connects the wheels to the motor by gears
the diffs look nice! wonder how they will last.
Yeah, gonna be interesting. They look of good quality, and feel very smooth, but one never knows, especially when it comes to the ring/drive gear and the bevel/pinion gears. Hope they aren't made of metal butter :-)
@@NordicRC lmao metal butter
I'm doing the same upgrade, but I find the diff locks up tight when I fasten the housing screws. Did you have to do any shimming between the gear and the housing?
Hi! If I remember correctly no. But I had that same problem with the plastic housing
If you buy the metal differentials that are already built, you will need to remove the two internal washers from each differential for smooth operation.
Yeah, I remember there was a difference with the washers. These I assembled myself from parts, and they are real smooth.
brother i have aa problem to build this a979 all metall rc car, could you please help me ? when i spin and turn my a979 ( teel wheel axle) then this stuck with dogbone please tell me what the reason ???
👍
Thanks, buddy!
so the stock diffs fail and have no metal? can they handle stock motor well? or is this for brushless setup? thanks
I haven't had any stock diff fail, but others have. But yeah, if going for a brushless set-up I would definitely upgrade the gears.
Finaly! Something that works good! Thanks for sharing. just order full metal gears for 12428 12423 and i realy hope they go in smooth with no proplems.. Did you had any metal gear problems with 12428? There are different versions of metal gears so i hope i bought the "good ones".. Any videos on that?
Hi Mike! yeah, and thanks for watching! I'm afraid the 12428 is one of those models I have never had. Don't know why. Seen tons of videos with them and I like them a lot :-) Sorry I can't help you with that one.
No worries. I bought mine for 10 euros as a very used roller with no roll cage and upgrading it in stages. The steering is an awful design but all around is good fun and very upgradable without breaking the bank. Thanks for the content!
Achetez les différenciels upgrade av et arrière complet , ils sont déjà monté et en général sont déjà aligné.
Les kit upgrade différenciel a monter sois même sont souvent des problèmes.
Hi. I'm having problems with the a959b. It looks like the right differential cup does not want to stay in place and pops out, so the car becomes front wheel drive only... After replacing the differential I'm still having issues! So, after many hours of inspection, I've discovered that inside one of the two cups (the one that is working fine) there is a small rubber ring which reduces the play in the dog bone. The other one does not have it so there is too much play and the cup pops out under stress. Now, do you know where I can find this rubber ring, do you have it too in your a959b? Thanks!
Hi! Yeah, the o-rings inside the diff cups are important in a lot of models. You should be able to find them on eBay or Banggood or elsewhere. Doesn’t have to be thr WLToys brand, just one that fits the smaller ones, 1/18-1/14th Scale. If you can’t find them you can try making your own. Only important thing is that it has to be flexible material that stays where it should. Many models also use a small piece of foam. Just cut one out that will fit. Works just as good. Hope you find a solution.
@@NordicRC I've 3D printed them... I've put a motor of a brushless 3S 1/10 tamiya and now this little a959 is a beast and is also more power efficient than before
Sounds like a beast yeah!
can i use the tpower 16pc kit on my a979b? because i doesnt say of bang good?
I don’t see any reason why not. That being said I haven’t tried it.
👍, good job, 😉
How much is optional parts?
Hi Fab DBX! Thanks! I'm not sure, since prices can change, but all links to all parts (and prices) are in the description box.
@Nordic RC Visions , what's the music?
Hi! No idea. From the UA-cam Audio Library :-)
I wondered why you put the plastic outdrives back in the first place..They are terrible! Lol
Ha ha, yeah, when holding them up close they do not look that great (to put it mildly).Think they do alright in the stock standard version, keeping costs down, never had a problem with them, but it's definitely one of those parts that is no. 1 priority if one starts to upgrade. Even WLToys replaced them with the metal ones in their B-version, so they are probably not too proud of them themselves :-)
@@NordicRC I ran through the plastic ones a lot ..I ended up building a Frankenstein out of an a and a b lol..Sold it though
I plan on upgrading my hbx rampage with metal diffs sadly i cant find any for that car do u think this would fit?
Hi Ian. No idea. Sorry. But I doubt they will be a direct fit.
@@NordicRC ok thank you for getting back so quick
Did these diffs end being reliable?
The ESC/motor on this one ended up being not so reliable, so I don’t know. Maybe they couldn’t handle the metal gears.
Hey,I got a 979. Thinking of going brushless but want to keep stock gearing.I looked up the 2435 mtors with 25a esc and they looked tiny so I was thinking of going 2440 4000kv motor 35a esc. In your opinion would the 2440 have enough torque and rpm to make it faster than stock? or do I need 2445 can size? The stock brushed motor i measured was around 45 mm can size and these brushless are smaller than it!
Hi Godzilla Babua! I haven't tried it out yet myself so it's hard for me to say. But I see a lot of people throwing in 2435 or 2440 so it's probably a good choice. Don't think it matters too much, so you're probably good whatever you choose, as long as you do not have too much weight/metal in it. When I get to that point (probably gonna take a while since I am doing this step by step) I will try out something like a 2440 with a 4000-5000 kv. motor.
I put a racestar 4800kv with a 25a esc and it has way to much power. Its really fun and a tire shredder!
My A969 is full metal even the rims were at one point and it didn't even add 5 ounces to the car. I'm running a 2s battery. The 4800kv motor is alot of power to manage in that little A9*9 series car.
@@joshherrman3201 The 2435 one with 25a esc?
Sounds like you’ve had a good upgrade project. Did you measure the top speed with that set-up?
I'm to scared to try this. All those tiny pieces! 😨
Stephen Ksiazek Ahh. Not that hard. If I can do it anybody can do it 🙂 Just place one piece at a time then it will be alright
Does it fix the problem ?
Yes, the diffs themselves are running really smooth, all metal. But take a look at the final run test. Didn’t go that smooth.
The separate parts seem pointless a full diff set would be way better.
I think these are different companies. The metal gears are not branded WLToys, the diff cases came in no brand package and the diff outdrives came with the WLToys brand name. But at least the gear specifications should have stated that they require the other metal upgrades to function.
OMG - get ceramic bearings! 🤣😂🤣😂🤣
Ha ha, that could be cool in a very over-kill'ish kinda way :-) :-)
Nordic RC Visions unreal difference - assuming video was not doctored! Damn things made test wheel roll forever!
Nordic RC Visions I am going to start putting them in drive train and nitro engines.
Never tried them - but sounds like it could be fun to try out 🙂
Suspens is horrible, aarrrggghhhh
Ha ha, yeah, with those oil-filled-shocks with no oil in them (!) it's really bouncy. Other than that it's a very standard double wishbone suspension system design, similar to most other entry-level buggies, big or small.
Lol, i would like to says suspense not shocks, suspense like Hitchcock movies, so funny, thank you to make me laugh so cool
I love rc's community for those moment of fun thanks a lot.
Ahhh, ha ha, that kind of suspension :-) So funny. Well, would love to be able to edit the whole process a lot faster, but all this video editing takes a lot of time, so I have to take it slowly.
Don't worry, the timing is cool and your video are very nice and we smile with comment so it's fun and cool, thank you.