You’re a great speaker, you broke everything down to where it was easy to understand and follow along. Thank you . Your channel has taught me so much knowledge I didn’t even knew i needed to know by accident also
You are the perfect teacher for UA-cam videos. I could watch your videos ALL day long. I always learn something with ease.... thanks, my brother. Much ❤️.
These one on ones has helped me out a lot. I literally just ran into a center diff problem. With this video, I fixed my problem within 20 minutes. Thanks A.J, you rock man!💪🏾
You have explained this perfectly for me to understand!!! I knew a little from the real 4x4 world but I never had to worry about ballooning my 1978 ford bronco’s tires
I have to say I've been terrified to get into the differentials on my trucks because it scared me, But after watching this video and the way you basically teach us how they work and explain everything ill be working on mine as soon as I can get the oil. And I never really subscribed to any of these UA-cam channels But after the 1st video I watched of yours I actually subscribed, I like the way that you explain stuff And I'm happy that I come across you just by chance!!
I picked my two kids up some lower end rigs for mild bashing this Christmas. We've had such a good time over the last few days that I've decided to grab myself a Granite BLX. While I wait for it I've been watching videos on disassembly of certain parts to prepare for the inevitable rebuilds and maintenance. Trying to educate myself really, This video has been fantastic, sub'd! Thanks so much. Seasons Greetings from Nova Scotia!
I have always put just grease in the rear differential with the thinking that the power will go to the rear first (the path of least resistance) and thicker oil in the front differential. I would love to hear your opinion on this🤠
I'm in the process of putting a Felony front diff into the rear of the felony (and the 15t input gear to match) and this video helped me understand the workings of diffs and fluid. I'm sure i can tune the diffs to get a little less uneven tire wear, but the main thing is being able to run 4 of the same diameter tires, so i can get more tire options and rotate them as necessary. Thanks, big time!
Very clear, thanks a lot. I'll try to follow your steps when I will decide to open mine. I'm new in RC world. I had my first RC car a month ago, a MJX HyperGo 14210
Love your content AJ, really good stuff and well presented. You are my favourite channel and first to go to when I fire up UA-cam. Looking forward to your take on the EXB diffs. They have caused me numerous headaches. Cheers, Ian.
Thank you for the kind words. We are actually doing this it help our RC community get their game on and have a blast doing it. As far as the EXB diffs go, they aren’t as complicated as they seem. We just need to understand the science behind it. You’ll see. Catch you in the next video. AJ. 😎👍
awesome video, perfect explanation of diff fluids.. I have kraton 4s v2.5 with center diff and stock oils 10k/500k/10k and i am wondering if i change to 10k/500k/20k will have the desired effect you explained at the end of your video.. :)
Hi, off course a bit with this question but …gears 😵💫😵💫😵💫. What gives speed ? Small pinion ,big spur …..big pinion small spur ? More powerful batteries , esc ..what ones do what ..? too many combinations to figure out …I’m confused , therefore tend to stick with stock …but so many say upgrade , go faster etc …would love to see you discuss this subject .thanks
That’s a great idea. It can be confusing. We stay stock most of the time for the channel but several of our RCs are upgraded. Bear in mind, the only one who can insist you go faster is you. If you need more speed there are a few ways to go about it. Look for RC gearing 101 in the next week or so. I hope it helps. AJ 😎👍
Try the online forums for your vehicles manufacturer. I have Arrmas and I get same day answers to all my questions from the very knowledgeable folks on the forum. They helped me find the proper diff and input gears to use in the rear of my Felony so I can run whatever tires I want. I got the answer in a few hours after I asked. Similarly I had trouble adjusting the toe on my Granite 3s. 15 minutes later I had an answer that allowed me to adjust the toe perfectly. Try your manufacturers forums, they're useful.
Your Traxxas UDR does have a differential (sort of) it's just a spool type (permanently locked). Then there are locking differentials (you can switch between open and locked), limited slip differentials and open differentials. There are different types of locking (cable, pneumatic, electronic) and limited slip (Torsen, Eaton, clutch) differentials but open and spool types are for the most part very similar (the differences are in the metals used in the manufacturing, how many ring/pinion gear teeth and the number of "spider" gears). If I remember correctly, the first working differential came out of France, some French mathematician was trying to design a watch or clock - something to do with the measurement of time.
This may be a little long winded, but it’s what is required (I feel) to answer my question. For the details……… I run a Losi Ten SCTe 3.0 Race Kit. The track is an indoor medium sized high packed high traction clay track. The manual for the truck calls for……Front & Center Diff Oil of 7K. The rear diff calls for 5K. I am currently running 7K in the front, 10K in the center and 5K in the rear. Now for my question. What effect would it have on the truck to run the 7K in the center diff like the manual calls for?
Great video! How would I oil my differentials to have the front wheels more planted instead of wheeling all the time? Heavy front, medium middle and light at the back??
Good question. It is the center diff that transmits the power to the rear causing the front to lift. Lighten the center diff fluid to help with this. I hope this helps. 😎👍
Most tracks are usually dusty and slick and its tricky. The track changes throughout the race weekend and depending on the weather and humidity, the track sometimes groves uo and turns into a hard sticky concrete like surface and u have to have be prepared and have different diffs set ups on hand, and ready to drop in, and have tires on hand... Sometimes we have to race in the mud and u have to be prepared because the surface changes from morning to evening and from one day to the next
Hello A.J. ! Love your expert videos!! I have a traxxas UDR with open rear diff. Wondering if you could give me a starting point to change the diff fluids weight to help with rollover. I know it’s a trait of that truck just trying to make it a little better. Thank you so much
Very informative video! Just discovered your channel and glad I did. Can I ask a wee bit of advice please... I just bought a Hobao hyper VS2e, running a HW Max8G2 with 2250kv motor on 4s. I have never changed/bought diff oil before, so feeling a bit lost on which to buy. I want to change the diff oils. I have no idea what oil is in there just now, because Hobao don't provide that information. They could be dry for all I know, who knows when I comes to manufacturers, like you found out in the video. Would you be able to recommend a starting point of oils to use and then I can tune as I go, to get it to where I am happy with how it drives. I use it just for general bashing. Thankyou
Oils are always a handling kind of preference. It all depends upon what you choose to use your RC for. A basic setup for a start might be medium fluid in the front diff like 50k for example, heavier in the center like 100k, and lighter in the rear like 30k.The actual weights are specific to your RC. Keep searching and you'll find someone with experience with your particular rig who can get you closer to what you need. Thanks for asking. AJ
@AJJAMStudios Okay brilliant, Thanks. I read so much mixed advice. Some say go around the 10k/15k range. For example.. 10k - 15k - 7k. Then others say the same as you and go alot higher. I know it is very much trial and error, till I find a setup I like. I ordered the 10k-15k-7k. Not ran it yet though. If I want higher, I might go down the ear plug route and tune the diffs with them, rather than keep buying oil. Thanks for the help and keep up the brilliant content 🤙👍
Good video. Interesting. 1:8 pro scale offroad will never run a diff setup like that. So i think it would help to know what car and scale you are running 10/50/30
Hi great video. I still cant figure out what is the best thickness of oil to use for 1/10 nitro street cars. Nimble driveing car park turns etc everything is set up for big trucks & bashers. No street racers. Any advice No centre diff just front & rear Kind regards
Oil thickness is unique to each application. When running light cars, the oil thickness will be different than if you run heavier cars, traction and speed, play a role. If you suffer from a lot of body roll that can indicate light fluid in the diffs and that can also indicate light fluid in the shocks. Balancing these is tricky. I generally start off with light fluid and then test it and then adjust it from there until I get the responsiveness that I’m looking for. Best of luck, AJ.😎👍
Excellent work on the videos. I’m new to the rc hobby and love how well you explain everything. Is there a teaching background? Really well instructed/teached. Thank you for these 101 videos.
Keep in mind I'm an amateur at the hobby. Also, keep in mind my rc's are offroad cars - Stampede 4x4 and Losi SCBE (4x4). I assume even a little oil, even if very light, helps with preserving the longevity of the gears? Kind of like in real cars? I haven't replaced or checked my diffs since I first bought my cars. I can tell the diffs are very free. And I like drifting w/ them on loose dirt. That's how I thought they were meant to be, but I guess not. I'm definitely going to have to check my diffs and at least clean them out and put oil in them. Anyway, I'm also wondering why change the properties at all, since diffs were invented to prevent exactly what you're saying in the video that you want. If you want the wheels to turn 1:1, then why have diffs at all and not simply a solid axle? Like the car that you showed us that does have a solid axle. Then again, in my mind I'm comparing RC cars w/ real cars. The reason diffs were invented was to prevent uneven tire wear on paved roads. They also give you more control on the pavement, otherwise cars would be spinning out. The RC car hobby is certainly very complicated. I can just imagine how much more complex actual, real cars are! What do you think about using white grease as some have recommended?
In my diffs it came with a little grease. So I used brake cleaner to remove it then repacked it with silicone grease. I haven’t used my truck yet. Should I keep the grease in or clean the grease out and use oil?
So if I want to keep the tires mostly on the ground I should use a thicker fluid? I purchased a kraton 6s on FB marketplace used as my first RC car and it's doing backflips on launch on 4s it's getting annoying I want to drive the car so I can get used to it but I can't like this cause it's always flipping
It still comes down to the equalization of the center diff. Stiffer oils make the power more even. So, stiffen up the diff oil and try it. Then do it again and try that. I think you'll find the outcome to your liking. AJ
Great videos AJ. Very informative. Differentials bleed the power to the wheel with the least traction. This can be tempered by using thicker oils. So my question is, in racing why are center differentials preferred over slipper clutches if they bleed away most of the power? A slipper clutch will provide equal power to the front and rear differentials? What is the advantage to the center diff? Thanks.
For me, the center diff adds the ability to tune the system to my driving style. If you watch closely when slipper rigs run they have the tendency to skid the front tires when turning hard under braking, which can take it off its line. The diff rigs are more controllable, in my experience. Stiffen the diff and it acts like a slipper, but loosen it a bit and the front tires will allow the car to control better. Stiff, get that hole shot. Loose, handle better. But of course, the slipper rigs cannot dissipate the torque binding while cornering the way a center diff car can. Look at it this way, with a slipper car the diffs, front and rear, are locked together which binds as the car turns, and this is due to the fact that while turning slowly (and this becomes apparent on asphalt) the front tires swing wider than the rear, which causes this binding effect. The thing is, in the dirt this means one end or the other has to break traction to turn. While the center diff car can spread this binding throughout the system and eliminate it all together. Still, it's a matter of preference. I have slipper cars I love. And I have center diff cars I love too. I don't think there is a right or wrong about it. I hope this helps. AJ
You are a great resource for us new to the hobby of RC guys my friend! I'm learning a lot of very valuable information from your videos and tutelage on maintenance, upgrades, hacks and even driving! I appreciate you and everything you do, THANK YOU! p.s. I had to order a set of new tires and wheels for my Slash Ultimate... forgot to tape over the vent holes in the rims and loaded them with sand! A wee bit of "un-balance" is the result. I taped the vents and used my Dremel and the recommended bit you suggested to vent the tires in thirds. Do you think that there is any hope that they will work themselves out and be ok for moderate driving in sand for "training"? After all, I am still trying to figure out the best way to "hot rod" this thing and learn to drive it like "Robby Gordon"! :)
I would run it is puddles and get some liquid inside the tires and then spin them out once or twice. It helps wash out the debris. Let me know what you think. 😎👍
Absolutely Amazing Video...You are my New Best Friend :)...here is my question...Running a Kraton 4S it only has a front and rear diff with a slipper clutch...would i have to treat the tightness of the slipper as if it was a center diff as far as stiffness...then do the front and rear diff oils as you explained in the vid?
Not necessarily. The spool in the 4s will automatically equalize the torque and send the power to both the front and the back evenly. The slipper is designed to slip enough to keep your front end down under load if that is what you want to do. Tighten it up and...wheelie...but loosen it up and you can control your acceleration for better control. It is an adjustment you have to make for yourself, depending upon your driving style and what you want out of your car as far as performance goes. However, adjusting your diffs to your liking can only help. Thanks for the question. AJ
Very helpful video! I'm about to get into a Sledge front diff due to leaking out of one side coming from the factory. I sure hope it's not dry already, but it did leak quite a bit... Not sure if it came from the bulkhead ring gear grease coming out or if it's actual diff lube. I'll find out in the next day or two!
great video brother. Very easy to understand the Diff fluids. Im gonna upgrads my outcast 6s to some 500K from 200k yeah i need all 4 tires to get equal power or alittle better in the front. Center diifs is laways gonna be pretty heavy. I do love 50K 200K 20K from front to rear on my Kraton EXB 6S of course. LSD diffs you do not need heavy fluids since they are LSD just so you are aware. Fluids dont really make a big differences on my EXB from what iv seen. Keep up the great videos brother.
True, the exb has the limited slip system, but keep in mind, this is their first iteration of that system. I more or less locked my rear up, but that's because I want it to be squirrelly. Control is another matter. I do have another diff video coming up soon that deals specifically with the EXB LSD system. Thanks for the sub and the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios HI AJ ok no problem. yes I will def watch it of course. I love learning about these diffs more i know better i can fix them up for my driving. thanks
@paulrakis This is old, but I just saw it. I do like a 50/200/20k setup for my Kraton EXB as well as my Fireteam...perfect. However the same setup in my Talion EXB does not slide in the turns the same with the diff setup as the other rigs. What did you end up going with?
I know this is an old video but i was hoping you could answer a question.. im just gettingbintonthe hobby and waitingbfor my losi tt pro to arrive and want to take your advice and opennall the diffs to gonthrough the oil. As a beginner, what would you recommend for oil weights for front, middle and rear. Thanks in advance for any info youncan provide.
I know you gave tour recommendations in the video so the reason I ask is because losi recommends 5k-5k-3k and tbat seems really light from what your recommending. Hope you can help.. thanks.
We always start with stock fluids. Then, after some time we might adjust them for one reason or another. The fluids are always chosen for what the driver wants.
Do you like LSD differentials, do they work as the weight is transferred to the other side and more friction is added as they used to work in actual older vehicles?
You can but Control would be an issue. Using oils in the front and rear differentials adds to handling and acceleration. Earplugs in the center give more snap but does make the car a bit more Squirrley. It depends on what you want to use the car for. Thanks for asking😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I put earplugs in the Center diff and it locked it completely I can get two pair of pliers on the drive cups and move them with the pliers but it’s not completely where I can’t move in by 🤚
As of right now we are still stock on that one. The Felony runs too good to swap things out. It controls right and sticks to the road just the way I like it. Thanks for asking.
Great vid AJ. Can I just ask, when you use silicon ear plugs in your center diffs, what lubricates the shims? Or do you put a little bit of oil in with the plugs?
It can depend upon what you plan on doing with your RC. Some like stiffer in the front and loose in the rear. We run either depending upon the design of the rig. It really depends upon your driving style. For the slipper RCs I stay close to the stock fluid stiffness and then tune as the RC requires. Perhaps we'll get into that in another video. Thanks for asking.
@AJJAMStudios awesome content from you as always, very detailed videos. I have a question, is there such a thing as a happy medium for a vendetta doing occasional 100mph speed runs and gearing back down to go drifting/bashing? I know a lot of the speedrunners usually go with much thicker oil like 1mil in the diffs, but I know that definitely won't work for on rd bashing. Would going maybe 500k be a good mix for both...or no such thing?
Good vid brother👍 you should use some green slime or similar on o rings and a lil dab of marine grease on your outdrives. I’ve found it helps a lot I never have leaks and very minimal wear where the outdrive goes through the cup. I use marine grease on my o rings and cups with no problem and much cheaper than slime and the other products. Lucas marine is awesome 👍💪👊
Any Chance you will have a look at the Corally Kronos XTR in the future? Especially a comparison to the Kraton EXB would be amazing. Do you have Patreon?
You know, It's hard to say whether I will or not. The cars I choose have a lot to do with how they strike me when I see them. I may look into that car, but you can never tell. If enough people ask for it, the odds go up. Thanks for the compliment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Definitely makes sense that way. So far all the your videos have been entertaining and I took something new away from them, so Iam looking forward to any new content 👍
There’s no way to contact you outside of your comments in your videos so I apologize in advance lol. I love your videos. Big fan. I have a dilemma with my dbxlE 2.0. I’m short course racing with friends and my dbxlE has a max 4 with the 560 hobbywing. I’m running 48/22 1.5 mod gearing and my driver style is like yours. Aggressive. I need help and cannot locate anywhere online to find out what diff fluid I need to use with this setup. I don’t want it to wheelie at all. I want her to squat and go. Off the line and out of the turns. I’ve been told to run 1 million in the center and 200k in rear and 100k in front. But I don’t know enough to say that will be ok or not. Any help from you or any of your fans is greatly welcome. Thanks 🙏 again!
I set mine to 200K front, 500K center, 100K rear. This only applies to our style and location of bashing. Your experience may be different due to location, terrain, and so forth. Thanks for asking
Your set up might work for bashing but it's opposite from what racers would use. U use the term pin it like your at that level but racers don't want the back end to spin out and come around. Bashing 101 diff lub should be the thumb nail
You’re a great speaker, you broke everything down to where it was easy to understand and follow along. Thank you . Your channel has taught me so much knowledge I didn’t even knew i needed to know by accident also
You are the perfect teacher for UA-cam videos. I could watch your videos ALL day long. I always learn something with ease.... thanks, my brother. Much ❤️.
Wow, thank you!😎👍
Finally! Someone who explained diff oil weight in an easy to understand manner. Thanks.
Thank you. I’m glad you found it useful. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios can you do one regarding shock oil weight?
@@hurricanepaul1 It is likely to be in the future. At the moment I have other projects in the pipeline. Thanks for the interest. AJ
You Rock Bro! Good job on all your videos. Easy to understand nice easy pace. Good stuff.
Brilliant every time. Perfect explanation without talking at or down to people.
Thank you so much for sharing your obviously vast knowledge.👍👍
My pleasure!
These one on ones has helped me out a lot. I literally just ran into a center diff problem. With this video, I fixed my problem within 20 minutes.
Thanks A.J, you rock man!💪🏾
I'm glad I was able to help you with your problem. After all, that's why we're doing this channel. Spread the word, brother. AJ 😎👍
Best differential explanation I've heard yet, great video! thanks
Thank you very much 😎👍
You have explained this perfectly for me to understand!!! I knew a little from the real 4x4 world but I never had to worry about ballooning my 1978 ford bronco’s tires
I have to say I've been terrified to get into the differentials on my trucks because it scared me, But after watching this video and the way you basically teach us how they work and explain everything ill be working on mine as soon as I can get the oil.
And I never really subscribed to any of these UA-cam channels But after the 1st video I watched of yours I actually subscribed, I like the way that you explain stuff And I'm happy that I come across you just by chance!!
Thank you. Welcome to the channel 😎👍
The world gone nuts. This dude deserves 1M subscribers.
Thank you so much 😎👍
I picked my two kids up some lower end rigs for mild bashing this Christmas. We've had such a good time over the last few days that I've decided to grab myself a Granite BLX. While I wait for it I've been watching videos on disassembly of certain parts to prepare for the inevitable rebuilds and maintenance. Trying to educate myself really, This video has been fantastic, sub'd! Thanks so much. Seasons Greetings from Nova Scotia!
Absolutely stellar video. As someone just getting into the hobby I'm extremely appreciative for this video!
Much appreciated!
U have got to be the best man with explanations.
Thank you 😎👍
I have always put just grease in the rear differential with the thinking that the power will go to the rear first (the path of least resistance) and thicker oil in the front differential. I would love to hear your opinion on this🤠
Great presenter of all your information. I really appreciate that.
I appreciate that!
FANTASTIC!!!! Very Understandable for a Newby!!!
You are a very talented teacher. Thank you so much for this video!
Our pleasure 😎👍
I'm in the process of putting a Felony front diff into the rear of the felony (and the 15t input gear to match) and this video helped me understand the workings of diffs and fluid.
I'm sure i can tune the diffs to get a little less uneven tire wear, but the main thing is being able to run 4 of the same diameter tires, so i can get more tire options and rotate them as necessary.
Thanks, big time!
Thank you very much.. great video and very valuable information
OMG!!!! I'm glad I just found this Video!!!! Thank you for explaining this so clearly!
Great information. Glad I found your page.
Awesome 😎👍
Very clear, thanks a lot.
I'll try to follow your steps when I will decide to open mine. I'm new in RC world.
I had my first RC car a month ago, a MJX HyperGo 14210
Amazing video, made me shim y son’s typhon right away (overdue but salvaged) thanks a ton, going to watch more of your stuff (and subscribe)
Hello from France 🇫🇷 and thanks a lot for this explications ❤😊
Do you have more on locking the defs? Your video’s have been very helpful
Love this 101 series. It helps a lot.
Love your content AJ, really good stuff and well presented. You are my favourite channel and first to go to when I fire up UA-cam. Looking forward to your take on the EXB diffs. They have caused me numerous headaches.
Cheers, Ian.
Thank you for the kind words. We are actually doing this it help our RC community get their game on and have a blast doing it. As far as the EXB diffs go, they aren’t as complicated as they seem. We just need to understand the science behind it. You’ll see. Catch you in the next video. AJ. 😎👍
Thank you for this great lesson!
I would like to know why some diferentials use grease, and considerations about grease and oil diffs. Thank you!
awesome video, perfect explanation of diff fluids.. I have kraton 4s v2.5 with center diff and stock oils 10k/500k/10k and i am wondering if i change to 10k/500k/20k will have the desired effect you explained at the end of your video.. :)
Awesome in debth . Very helpful!!!
Hi, off course a bit with this question but …gears 😵💫😵💫😵💫. What gives speed ? Small pinion ,big spur …..big pinion small spur ? More powerful batteries , esc ..what ones do what ..? too many combinations to figure out …I’m confused , therefore tend to stick with stock …but so many say upgrade , go faster etc …would love to see you discuss this subject .thanks
That’s a great idea. It can be confusing. We stay stock most of the time for the channel but several of our RCs are upgraded. Bear in mind, the only one who can insist you go faster is you. If you need more speed there are a few ways to go about it. Look for RC gearing 101 in the next week or so. I hope it helps. AJ 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios really appreciate your response ..thank you ..
The gear video will be out this Thursday morning. I hope it helps 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios brilliant ..look forward to it 👍
Try the online forums for your vehicles manufacturer.
I have Arrmas and I get same day answers to all my questions from the very knowledgeable folks on the forum.
They helped me find the proper diff and input gears to use in the rear of my Felony so I can run whatever tires I want. I got the answer in a few hours after I asked.
Similarly I had trouble adjusting the toe on my Granite 3s. 15 minutes later I had an answer that allowed me to adjust the toe perfectly.
Try your manufacturers forums, they're useful.
I definitely needed this vid. As always very informative.....I didn't have a clue.
Glad to help. 👍
Your Traxxas UDR does have a differential (sort of) it's just a spool type (permanently locked). Then there are locking differentials (you can switch between open and locked), limited slip differentials and open differentials. There are different types of locking (cable, pneumatic, electronic) and limited slip (Torsen, Eaton, clutch) differentials but open and spool types are for the most part very similar (the differences are in the metals used in the manufacturing, how many ring/pinion gear teeth and the number of "spider" gears).
If I remember correctly, the first working differential came out of France, some French mathematician was trying to design a watch or clock - something to do with the measurement of time.
This may be a little long winded, but it’s what is required (I feel) to answer my question. For the details………
I run a Losi Ten SCTe 3.0 Race Kit. The track is an indoor medium sized high packed high traction clay track. The manual for the truck calls for……Front & Center Diff Oil of 7K. The rear diff calls for 5K. I am currently running 7K in the front, 10K in the center and 5K in the rear. Now for my question. What effect would it have on the truck to run the 7K in the center diff like the manual calls for?
Great video. Thanks for the explanations.
New to the hobby. Great info for much greater comprehension. Thank you for your content and sharing of knowledge! Subscribed, and a new fan! 8)
Welcome to the channel 😎👍
Great video! How would I oil my differentials to have the front wheels more planted instead of wheeling all the time? Heavy front, medium middle and light at the back??
Good question. It is the center diff that transmits the power to the rear causing the front to lift. Lighten the center diff fluid to help with this. I hope this helps. 😎👍
Thanks! So light in the middle. And how should I do the back and the front?
Most tracks are usually dusty and slick and its tricky. The track changes throughout the race weekend and depending on the weather and humidity, the track sometimes groves uo and turns into a hard sticky concrete like surface and u have to have be prepared and have different diffs set ups on hand, and ready to drop in, and have tires on hand... Sometimes we have to race in the mud and u have to be prepared because the surface changes from morning to evening and from one day to the next
Hello A.J. ! Love your expert videos!! I have a traxxas UDR with open rear diff. Wondering if you could give me a starting point to change the diff fluids weight to help with rollover. I know it’s a trait of that truck just trying to make it a little better. Thank you so much
Thank you. I’ll have to look into it. Thanks for asking 😎👍
Very informative video! Just discovered your channel and glad I did.
Can I ask a wee bit of advice please...
I just bought a Hobao hyper VS2e, running a HW Max8G2 with 2250kv motor on 4s. I have never changed/bought diff oil before, so feeling a bit lost on which to buy.
I want to change the diff oils. I have no idea what oil is in there just now, because Hobao don't provide that information. They could be dry for all I know, who knows when I comes to manufacturers, like you found out in the video.
Would you be able to recommend a starting point of oils to use and then I can tune as I go, to get it to where I am happy with how it drives. I use it just for general bashing.
Thankyou
Oils are always a handling kind of preference. It all depends upon what you choose to use your RC for. A basic setup for a start might be medium fluid in the front diff like 50k for example, heavier in the center like 100k, and lighter in the rear like 30k.The actual weights are specific to your RC. Keep searching and you'll find someone with experience with your particular rig who can get you closer to what you need. Thanks for asking. AJ
@AJJAMStudios Okay brilliant, Thanks.
I read so much mixed advice. Some say go around the 10k/15k range. For example.. 10k - 15k - 7k.
Then others say the same as you and go alot higher. I know it is very much trial and error, till I find a setup I like.
I ordered the 10k-15k-7k. Not ran it yet though. If I want higher, I might go down the ear plug route and tune the diffs with them, rather than keep buying oil.
Thanks for the help and keep up the brilliant content 🤙👍
Great video thanks 🙏
Awesome video once again 👏. Thank you 😊!
Thank you for the sub, and I'm glad you like the content. AJ
Great video man.
Thank you 😎👍
Excellent video, thank you!!!!! Love the content
Good video. Interesting. 1:8 pro scale offroad will never run a diff setup like that. So i think it would help to know what car and scale you are running 10/50/30
Hi great video. I still cant figure out what is the best thickness of oil to use for 1/10 nitro street cars. Nimble driveing car park turns etc everything is set up for big trucks & bashers. No street racers. Any advice
No centre diff just front & rear
Kind regards
Oil thickness is unique to each application. When running light cars, the oil thickness will be different than if you run heavier cars, traction and speed, play a role. If you suffer from a lot of body roll that can indicate light fluid in the diffs and that can also indicate light fluid in the shocks. Balancing these is tricky. I generally start off with light fluid and then test it and then adjust it from there until I get the responsiveness that I’m looking for. Best of luck, AJ.😎👍
Thanks AJ🤓
Excellent work on the videos. I’m new to the rc hobby and love how well you explain everything. Is there a teaching background? Really well instructed/teached. Thank you for these 101 videos.
Thank you. We try to be helpful. 😎👍
Keep in mind I'm an amateur at the hobby. Also, keep in mind my rc's are offroad cars - Stampede 4x4 and Losi SCBE (4x4). I assume even a little oil, even if very light, helps with preserving the longevity of the gears? Kind of like in real cars? I haven't replaced or checked my diffs since I first bought my cars. I can tell the diffs are very free. And I like drifting w/ them on loose dirt. That's how I thought they were meant to be, but I guess not. I'm definitely going to have to check my diffs and at least clean them out and put oil in them.
Anyway, I'm also wondering why change the properties at all, since diffs were invented to prevent exactly what you're saying in the video that you want. If you want the wheels to turn 1:1, then why have diffs at all and not simply a solid axle? Like the car that you showed us that does have a solid axle. Then again, in my mind I'm comparing RC cars w/ real cars. The reason diffs were invented was to prevent uneven tire wear on paved roads. They also give you more control on the pavement, otherwise cars would be spinning out.
The RC car hobby is certainly very complicated. I can just imagine how much more complex actual, real cars are!
What do you think about using white grease as some have recommended?
Good stuff!!
Awesome. I'm glad you liked it. AJ
In my diffs it came with a little grease. So I used brake cleaner to remove it then repacked it with silicone grease. I haven’t used my truck yet. Should I keep the grease in or clean the grease out and use oil?
Each RC has differing types of diffs. What RC do you have?
@@AJJAMStudios hpi wheelie king
For that RC I would run the grease. Grease came in it and should work fine. Thanks for asking.
Great video Sir. Respect from Vietnam. Hope you will make a video about the Vorteks diff
Thank you. 👍
Can you mix Oils? Awesome Vid, I really learned a lot.
Great video Thank You ! what would you recommend for a stadium type truck (1/10 scale) that only have a front and rear diff , no center ?
Sure. They run good too. Just a bit different concerning handling.
what happens if you put a heavier oil in the front diff?
So if I want to keep the tires mostly on the ground I should use a thicker fluid? I purchased a kraton 6s on FB marketplace used as my first RC car and it's doing backflips on launch on 4s it's getting annoying I want to drive the car so I can get used to it but I can't like this cause it's always flipping
Thinner fluid helps keep the front end down.
Excellent video! May i ask what to do on a maxx and erevo 2.0 to stop frt tires from ballooning.
It still comes down to the equalization of the center diff. Stiffer oils make the power more even. So, stiffen up the diff oil and try it. Then do it again and try that. I think you'll find the outcome to your liking. AJ
Thanks for explaining 🙂
helo sir i just got problem sometime my gear got stuck cannot spin whats the problem is that thanks for the info
It sounds like you need to tear it down and look for the issue.
Great videos AJ. Very informative. Differentials bleed the power to the wheel with the least traction. This can be tempered by using thicker oils. So my question is, in racing why are center differentials preferred over slipper clutches if they bleed away most of the power? A slipper clutch will provide equal power to the front and rear differentials? What is the advantage to the center diff? Thanks.
For me, the center diff adds the ability to tune the system to my driving style. If you watch closely when slipper rigs run they have the tendency to skid the front tires when turning hard under braking, which can take it off its line. The diff rigs are more controllable, in my experience. Stiffen the diff and it acts like a slipper, but loosen it a bit and the front tires will allow the car to control better. Stiff, get that hole shot. Loose, handle better. But of course, the slipper rigs cannot dissipate the torque binding while cornering the way a center diff car can. Look at it this way, with a slipper car the diffs, front and rear, are locked together which binds as the car turns, and this is due to the fact that while turning slowly (and this becomes apparent on asphalt) the front tires swing wider than the rear, which causes this binding effect. The thing is, in the dirt this means one end or the other has to break traction to turn. While the center diff car can spread this binding throughout the system and eliminate it all together. Still, it's a matter of preference. I have slipper cars I love. And I have center diff cars I love too. I don't think there is a right or wrong about it. I hope this helps. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Great reply bud. Thanks for the explanation. Gotta love the physics.
You're welcome. 😎
You are a great resource for us new to the hobby of RC guys my friend! I'm learning a lot of very valuable information from your videos and tutelage on maintenance, upgrades, hacks and even driving! I appreciate you and everything you do, THANK YOU!
p.s. I had to order a set of new tires and wheels for my Slash Ultimate... forgot to tape over the vent holes in the rims and loaded them with sand! A wee bit of "un-balance" is the result. I taped the vents and used my Dremel and the recommended bit you suggested to vent the tires in thirds. Do you think that there is any hope that they will work themselves out and be ok for moderate driving in sand for "training"? After all, I am still trying to figure out the best way to "hot rod" this thing and learn to drive it like "Robby Gordon"! :)
I would run it is puddles and get some liquid inside the tires and then spin them out once or twice. It helps wash out the debris. Let me know what you think. 😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios That sounds like a great idea! I'll give that a try and let you know how it goes. Thanks a lot!
Hay Ray from the netherlands i have a typhon 6s what diff oil do you recommend in the front and centre and rear for dirt ground and what for the road
Absolutely Amazing Video...You are my New Best Friend :)...here is my question...Running a Kraton 4S it only has a front and rear diff with a slipper clutch...would i have to treat the tightness of the slipper as if it was a center diff as far as stiffness...then do the front and rear diff oils as you explained in the vid?
Not necessarily. The spool in the 4s will automatically equalize the torque and send the power to both the front and the back evenly. The slipper is designed to slip enough to keep your front end down under load if that is what you want to do. Tighten it up and...wheelie...but loosen it up and you can control your acceleration for better control. It is an adjustment you have to make for yourself, depending upon your driving style and what you want out of your car as far as performance goes. However, adjusting your diffs to your liking can only help. Thanks for the question. AJ
Wouldn't it take more battery power to turn the wheels with the dif almost locked?
Yes
Very helpful video! I'm about to get into a Sledge front diff due to leaking out of one side coming from the factory. I sure hope it's not dry already, but it did leak quite a bit... Not sure if it came from the bulkhead ring gear grease coming out or if it's actual diff lube. I'll find out in the next day or two!
Please let us know what you find. Thank you for sharing 😎👍
great video brother. Very easy to understand the Diff fluids. Im gonna upgrads my outcast 6s to some 500K from 200k yeah i need all 4 tires to get equal power or alittle better in the front. Center diifs is laways gonna be pretty heavy. I do love 50K 200K 20K from front to rear on my Kraton EXB 6S of course. LSD diffs you do not need heavy fluids since they are LSD just so you are aware. Fluids dont really make a big differences on my EXB from what iv seen. Keep up the great videos brother.
True, the exb has the limited slip system, but keep in mind, this is their first iteration of that system. I more or less locked my rear up, but that's because I want it to be squirrelly. Control is another matter. I do have another diff video coming up soon that deals specifically with the EXB LSD system. Thanks for the sub and the comment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios HI AJ ok no problem. yes I will def watch it of course. I love learning about these diffs more i know better i can fix them up for my driving. thanks
@paulrakis This is old, but I just saw it. I do like a 50/200/20k setup for my Kraton EXB as well as my Fireteam...perfect. However the same setup in my Talion EXB does not slide in the turns the same with the diff setup as the other rigs. What did you end up going with?
Please tell mee dbx 07.... What oil to put in the front center and rear.....
I know this is an old video but i was hoping you could answer a question.. im just gettingbintonthe hobby and waitingbfor my losi tt pro to arrive and want to take your advice and opennall the diffs to gonthrough the oil. As a beginner, what would you recommend for oil weights for front, middle and rear. Thanks in advance for any info youncan provide.
I know you gave tour recommendations in the video so the reason I ask is because losi recommends 5k-5k-3k and tbat seems really light from what your recommending. Hope you can help.. thanks.
We always start with stock fluids. Then, after some time we might adjust them for one reason or another. The fluids are always chosen for what the driver wants.
Do you like LSD differentials, do they work as the weight is transferred to the other side and more friction is added as they used to work in actual older vehicles?
Can I do that with all of my Differentials put in all earplugs all three of them how would that work out
You can but Control would be an issue. Using oils in the front and rear differentials adds to handling and acceleration. Earplugs in the center give more snap but does make the car a bit more Squirrley. It depends on what you want to use the car for. Thanks for asking😎👍
@@AJJAMStudios I put earplugs in the Center diff and it locked it completely I can get two pair of pliers on the drive cups and move them with the pliers but it’s not completely where I can’t move in by 🤚
Thanks for the video. What fluids do you use for the Arrma Felony?
Thanks again.
As of right now we are still stock on that one. The Felony runs too good to swap things out. It controls right and sticks to the road just the way I like it. Thanks for asking.
Awesome video, HOWEVER, now I have a few hours of work ahead of me.
I looked on your play lists but dont see the kraton EXB dif explanation.
LSD diff rebuild 101
ua-cam.com/video/-cB85ZEK-_o/v-deo.html
Here you go
Perfect vid👍
Thank you 😎👍
Great vid AJ. Can I just ask, when you use silicon ear plugs in your center diffs, what lubricates the shims? Or do you put a little bit of oil in with the plugs?
Yes, I leave a bit of oil inside. 👍
I have a car with only front and rear diffs, and no slipper. Is the concept the same, lighter in front heavier in back?
It can depend upon what you plan on doing with your RC. Some like stiffer in the front and loose in the rear. We run either depending upon the design of the rig. It really depends upon your driving style. For the slipper RCs I stay close to the stock fluid stiffness and then tune as the RC requires. Perhaps we'll get into that in another video. Thanks for asking.
@AJJAMStudios awesome content from you as always, very detailed videos.
I have a question, is there such a thing as a happy medium for a vendetta doing occasional 100mph speed runs and gearing back down to go drifting/bashing?
I know a lot of the speedrunners usually go with much thicker oil like 1mil in the diffs, but I know that definitely won't work for on rd bashing. Would going maybe 500k be a good mix for both...or no such thing?
Can you lock those diffs up.
Silicone ear plugs will pretty much do that.
Thanks 👍🏾👍🏾
Glad I could help 😎👍
Can’t see the newest video on the lsd diffs
I found some questionable info in that video, and I’m remaking it to make sure everything is accurate. I think it will be worth waiting for. AJ
Good vid brother👍 you should use some green slime or similar on o rings and a lil dab of marine grease on your outdrives. I’ve found it helps a lot I never have leaks and very minimal wear where the outdrive goes through the cup. I use marine grease on my o rings and cups with no problem and much cheaper than slime and the other products. Lucas marine is awesome 👍💪👊
Thanks for the tip
Any Chance you will have a look at the Corally Kronos XTR in the future? Especially a comparison to the Kraton EXB would be amazing.
Do you have Patreon?
Forgot this: great video!
You know, It's hard to say whether I will or not. The cars I choose have a lot to do with how they strike me when I see them. I may look into that car, but you can never tell. If enough people ask for it, the odds go up. Thanks for the compliment. AJ
@@AJJAMStudios Definitely makes sense that way. So far all the your videos have been entertaining and I took something new away from them, so Iam looking forward to any new content 👍
Is this the same for LSD diffs?
Check out LSD diff rebuild on our channel. 👍
Do you know how good leopard motors are?
I do not believe I’ve owned one yet. Do you?
@@AJJAMStudios No but thinking of getting one they seem to have crazy power and good quality.
@@oneshot7609 are the Team Magic? Taiwan
@@ZingZingNZ No
There’s no way to contact you outside of your comments in your videos so I apologize in advance lol. I love your videos. Big fan. I have a dilemma with my dbxlE 2.0. I’m short course racing with friends and my dbxlE has a max 4 with the 560 hobbywing. I’m running 48/22 1.5 mod gearing and my driver style is like yours. Aggressive. I need help and cannot locate anywhere online to find out what diff fluid I need to use with this setup. I don’t want it to wheelie at all. I want her to squat and go. Off the line and out of the turns. I’ve been told to run 1 million in the center and 200k in rear and 100k in front. But I don’t know enough to say that will be ok or not. Any help from you or any of your fans is greatly welcome.
Thanks 🙏 again!
I set mine to 200K front, 500K center, 100K rear. This only applies to our style and location of bashing. Your experience may be different due to location, terrain, and so forth. Thanks for asking
I hate when tires baloon.. thanks for this bro. 🙏
I hope it helps. AJ
Got a 4s rustler 4x4 putting 80k in the rear, and 30k front with slipper. Lets see how it drives
Please let me know what oils you settle on or like best for your driving style. Find what works for you takes time.
God bless traxxas summit locking diffs
Your set up might work for bashing but it's opposite from what racers would use. U use the term pin it like your at that level but racers don't want the back end to spin out and come around. Bashing 101 diff lub should be the thumb nail
Those are bevel gears, not planetary gears!
What about 1/8 racing?