DIY LiPo Supercharger! (Charge, Protect, 5V/12V Boost V2)
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- Опубліковано 14 жов 2024
- Get your DIY LiPo Supercharger here (shipped world-wide):
www.elektor.co...
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(FYI, I do get a commission for every sold kit)
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DIY LiPo Charge/Protect/5V Boost Circuit video: • DIY LiPo Charge/Protec...
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Websites (datasheets) which were shown in the video:
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In this video I will present you my DIY LiPo Supercharger circuit, co-produced with @Elektor! If you connect a LiPo battery to it, then the circuit can charge it up with 1A of current through a USB Type-C port, it protects the battery from overcharge, over-discharge and a short circuit and it can even boost the battery voltage up to 5V or 12V with an output current of 1.5A and 0.75A respectively. This circuit is basically an improved version of my old Charge/Protect/5V Boost circuit. But this time you can even buy it as a kit! Let's get started!
Music:
2011 Lookalike by Bartlebeats
Get your DIY LiPo Supercharger here (shipped world-wide):
www.elektor.com/greatscott-diy-lipo-supercharger-kit
(FYI, I do get a commission for every sold kit)
My last article in Elektor’s print-magazine: www.elektormagazine.com/magazine/elektor-151/58764
Check out Elektor’s UA-cam channel: ua-cam.com/users/ElektorIM
Big fan of yours
2nd ?
Nice one. In the video you tell, there are Gerbers and such stuff available. I cannot find those behind the given link. Could you clarify, please?
Great Project!
Is there a way to modify this to work with LifePO4 batteries ? Ideally auto sensing the battery type ?
Where are the links to the schematics?
Great project and congratulations on the Elektor project.
Thanks :-)
Patreon?
@@animatrix1851 yes
@@animatrix1851 yes yes patreon...........
@@ElderGod29 lol ass
0:44 Look Mom, I'm on UA-cam!
lol
😂
🥳🎊
gratz
who gives a shit
I hope you make it 'adjustable' for voltage discharge protection some people don't like to push battery to 2.5v
Not just the discharge, I personally like to go for a charge cycle range of roughly 4.1v to 3.3v I think the slight loss in capacity is generally worth it for longer cell life.
@@vgamesx1 Can you link IC or components and the scheme (if possible) for 3.3v overdischarge protection please?
I only found IC for 3.0v and it's a bit too low in my opinion as well.
Yea 2.5 seems low but it also sounds like getting an ic that stops above 3 is difficult. Might be better to consider that feature as protection for the lipo exclusively and work a cutoff into the workflow/design of the product being powered. I would've loved to see a voltage indicator even if it was just a handful of leds to make it easier to stop manually. Not hard to add tho.
2.5 v will be an issue for LiPo batteries, but Li-Ion would tolerate this much better without degrading the cells. With the size of the circuit board I could see wiring up a pair of 18650s in parallel for 6000 mah capacity working really well.
@@Ricardo-sx7ez Sorry, I'm not aware of any ICs that do that, there are some with a reference pin that can allow you to adjust the voltage but if I need that functionality I'll just use a microcontroller and there are a few ways of doing that, you use the onboard ADC, add an external ADC or use a voltage/current sensor.
ua-cam.com/video/UAJMLTzrM9Q/v-deo.html (you can skip the first 7 minutes)
ua-cam.com/video/cG8moaufmQs/v-deo.html
It's a bit on the pricey side for battery monitoring but there's also the diyBMS project which I can highly recommend or just search for "how to measure voltage / monitor battery with [preferred micro of choice]"
NICE!
I think the 5V 12V switch should have been a jumper of some kind.
You don't want to run the risk of accidentally changing to 12V
That's why GreatScott! gave us the 12V indicator LED. It will tell us right away why our powered devices released the magic smoke.
@@PeteBo lol. That's right!
4:54 放电完成 = discharge complete
I just ordered my kit ! I've been a fan of Elektor for over 40 years, so I couldn't let this pass...
Even though I'm probably not gonna use your design, due to not needing this, I'd to thank you for open sourcing it. The world would be cleaner if we'd have all the schematics
Elektor fan since 30 yrs. Good man
I’ve done a lot of soldering but almost no surface mount soldering. I needed the capabilities of your design so I ordered a kit.
I have a fine soldering iron and tips that work with the 1206 parts. I found that good lighting and some magnifying glasses were required and bought some thin solder and paste flux that worked with it.
Yes the transition to 21st century hand soldering is possible! The work can be tedious so frequent breaks are quite helpful as was periodic cleanup of the solder residue with 91% alcohol.
The circuit worked just fine when completed. I wanted a protected converter of 12-14V to 5V for a QRP-Labs Ultimate 3S WSPR transmitter and find this project served just fine.
Thank you for making this available!
You should use some flux when soldering SMD, instead of relying on the flux inside the solder wire. This way you won't need to dab so much solder into the joint every time.
I'm glad you and your channel have been so successful.
Thank you so much!
@@greatscottlab kit both links broken
I was confused when I first saw this. The video straightened me out!
I guess the bottom line is that this PCB needs to stay attached (more or less) to a single-cell LiPO battery to enable it to both power a 5V or 12V project, and then later recharge the battery. Looks good!
Without this project, we're limited to powering things that only require ~3 V power (with a single-cell LiPO battery).
I'd love to see something like this but for multiple cell lipo batteries! This would be perfect for many of my projects but I rarely use a 1s lipo.
06:30 A bit of advice: do yourself a favor and get a flux pen so you can solder trough-hole components and give the solder a chance to flow so you'll end up with a small fillet that looks nice and is stronger than the ball-of-solder.
Great video and awesome board! I recommend that you clean that flux with some iso. It'll help the people you influence to clean their boards as well which is just a great thing to practice.
If the over discharge protection goes down to 2.5 v then using Li-Ion cells would probably be a better choice than LiPo. 18650 or 21700 would both work well. This is a great looking project kit! Congrats on getting it all together.
i don't know why your not making kit's all the time because, loads of your projects and your DIY OR BUY projects are brilliant.. and i can see them doing very well mainly because of your channel. us people who will be buying them know we can trust the source.. P.S. love the 12v option on it : ) very good choice!!
Great , but I would love some charge protect circuits for multiple configurations like 1S or 2S or 2S2P of 18650 li-ion.
I’ll add my vote for that too!!
Certainly many gadgets are 12 V powered, a 3 S Lipo version would be appreciated
Me too, I'd like to find a good design of 12VDC UPS based on two 18650 (for at least half an hour of backup power).
This device should be able to stay permanently connected (so must be very safe) and delivering 8W to 10W of 12VDC regulated power. My intention is to provide uninterruptible power to a Fiber Optic router, originally powered by a AC/DC regulated 12VDC plugin module (this module should be reused to feed the mini UPS, so max 2S is required to preserve some margin for the LiPo charger. Might be necessary to use a Sepic converter for the regulated output if Vin >= Vout when AC powered).
It's really nice to see this project, especially the USB C plug! By the way, you should do something against those iron tips. They look like they could use some good flux or something like that
where do you get your pens? they look very satisfying to write with!
Those are STABILO Fineliner point 88 - a must have inventory of every student from the elementary school on in germany
@@ferdi93ferdi they're a thing in poland too, love em, really great for any fine-line... pretty much anything :)
@@ferdi93ferdi we have them here in the Netherlands aswell
@@ferdi93ferdi thank you! Now to find out if they are available for Canada
Success.
Congratulations on your first kit. One improvement could be increasing output current to 2 or 3 Amps so that it could be used to power portable projects like raspberry Pi.
If I may: my wishlist for the next version:
- 3.3V output (many ICs like the ESP32 and many sensors now run on 3.3V)
- any energy harvesting charging input
- USB PD support, maybe
I like the USB type C breakout board idea but you could integrate that into the project. If you look on the breakout board then you see a resistor and a capacitor. The resistance for sinking any power is independent of the resistance that will be on the cable's end. So pull-down resistors will always be 5.1kOHM on the CC1 and CC2 pins of the USB type C on your board. Also it looks like there is a capacitor that probably goes to the Vbus line for filtering. In the case that you need a power supply without ripple you would need to filter the Vbus line, after combining all the pins labeled Vbus together, with a 10u capacitor or a Pi filter. As well you see that it comes with the standard communication pins Dp and Dn on the board, well you'd just route them together as a differential pair and wire them to some IC like a serial-to-UART CH340C specifically to have communication with an ESP.
So, maybe this is a silly question, but can I use this kit to charge 18650 batteries? I'm working on a project where I need 12V output from a bunch of 18650s in parallel, and this seems to fit the bill pretty well, but unsure if this will fit the bill or if I need a proper BMS instead. The requirement is also that it needs to be able to charge the batteries with USB.
Yep. 18650 will work.
@@greatscottlab Neato! May have to give this a look then. Cheers!
Why don't you use them in series? It's more efficient (and more complicated to balance)
A lot in parallel with boost converter could work, depending on current needed, if it's very low, I'd go with single or parallel, if higher I'd go 3s with bms, and balance, maybe use a buck boost to regulate output, they make tiny 3s charge boards, that could use USB with boost to charge im working on a similar project, but low current, 1-2amps, 5amp max,
Although lifepo4 will work for 12v much better with 4s coming to 12.8v nominal, and 14.4/14.8 full charge, and is much less flammable !
Voltage meter kit, oscilloscope kit: single channel or dual channel, signal producer, transistor tester, zvs driver. The list goes on. Your channel is the best. Thank you.
Amazing kit! The only problem I would have is the 1.5A max output current. A lot of my projects need more than that but I know that’s not the point of this. Very cool!
Fantastic project, well thought out!
1 question, if the battery is charging through the USB, will the output be disabled, or still be usable?
Output is still usable.
No graphs?
Thank you for another great video. I love your scientific approach in all of your videos.
Thank you Great Scott.
You also showed that you went through the trouble of measuring the output voltage/current at different loads and at different input voltages. I would love to see the graphs on that. I would even say that it merits a separate video. I'd love to see e.g. the efficiency of the circuit.
Keep up the great work.
Much appreciated... as every week.
ChrisV
I made two of the old PCB. Not too happy indeed about the tiny sizes you choose, especially for the LED's. Also, the boost converter is not working on both. I'll try to make some more and see if it will work eventually.
So the new kit might be an improvement, but is waaayyyy to expensive. But I guess that's in the hands of Elektor.
Just finished building one of these bought from SparkFun. Works great! Nice little kit - great instructions - worked first time. :)
@2m30s: You should clean your soldering iron between each connection. It should be clean and shiney. Use a damp sponge.
I was so busy, got the notification, but wanted to watch it relaxed, while having my coffee - here I'm now, always interesting video - thanks GREAT 👍👍👍 SCOTT!!!
YESS! Awesome!! Nice work! Buying one or two or three.
A couple of questions though, the over-discharge protection, at first in the video you show 2.9V and later you show 2.5V. Which one is the correct? Also, 2.5v is good for li-ion but isn’t it too low for lipo???
What’s the difference between overdischarge detection and overdischarge release? Is it that once it goes down to 2.5v it will disconnect the load and only until the cell voltage has gone up to 3v it will reconnect the batt?
I would love to see a boosted board kit. 😂
You can build one using MC34063 IC, for example 5V to 12V
@@RANDOMfilmsOFFICJAL Try looking up what "boosted board" is ...
23 EUR is sadly very hard competition with Aliexpress alternatives :-(
Guaranteed quality though?
@@derpsquad3306 I somewhat doubt the quality is guaranteed, as in the price difference is made up by additional checks beyond what you would usually get from AliExpress. I'm sure the guaranteed quality applies to the individual components e.g. from Texas instruments - and maybe the store can elaborate- but I'm guessing you can never exclude some manufacturing faults and there may not be an inherent guarantee if you assemble it yourself
Some of the cost goes to Elektor and Great Scott for profit, and some of the appeal of the kit with the increased cost is the ability to assemble it yourself. I imagine there are already dozens of competing boards that are already assembled available from AliExpress/Banggood/eBay.
I think the undervoltage Protektion is a Bit to low for lipos But for li-ion Batteries its fine. Becourse the li-ion can get discharged lower than lipos whithout any damage
Congratz on the kit! Hope these will be available pre-soldered in the future.
Nice circuit. I can only think of one potential flaw: what happens in case of a bad contact in the voltage selector switch? Or slow operation? So, with the voltage selector switch in an undefined state: will it output 0V, 5V, 12V, or any?
This could potentially destroy electronic projects, so it's important to know.
You could always "hardwire" the connections and leave out the switch, if you're really worried about that.
Then you just wire each one for a specific output for a specific project--since after all, this PCB should travel with the battery that it's charging and "extending" the output of. Sounds like a match to me!
You and ElectroBoom are my best teacher
Most underrated electronics channel on UA-cam!!
1) Using some liquid flux for soldering may help for getting better results.
2) For the short circuit protection, limiting the current may be dangerous. I think that part should be updated in the upcoming versions!
All in all, great job and congratulations!
Wow i just clicked the notification. This is uploaded 8minutes ago now and it has already 2.4k views amazing!!!! Thanks for the video I learned a lot in this channel. Hello here from Philippines.😊
Thanks :-)
Amazing! Is there any interest in the future to make a usb-c pd version of this for higher power projects?
Especially for lead acid 13.4v...
Nice project thank you Scott!. Can it charge the battery while delivering power to the load? In other words, could it work as a small capacity UPS?
I also need to know the answer.
I think no as the output voltage comes only from the battery (and the charger need to know the end of the charge cycle which is a small % of the charging current).
But I'm looking for something like that too: I need a small 12VDC UPS to provide power to a fiber optic router...
Edit: I'm wrong... The circuit does both, but the current is shared between the load (boost converter) and the charger section (1A max according to R6 and datasheet).
If the battery is already fully loaded, it's ok. Exemples, if a 5V load requires 1.5A, then the module will require max 1A from the charger and approximately 1.4A from the battery (taking in account an efficiency of 85% of the boost converter and a best case VBAT in discharge mode to 3.7V). In this case the battery obviously will not charge and the system will shutdown when the battery is depleted, even powered by the USB-C... If instead your load requires 0.5A at 5V, then a current of 0.8A dropping to 0.7A will be required from the charger section, allowing 0.3 to 0.2A to charge the battery... Of course, supposing the USB-C is able to provide the current...
At 12V output, it's a little worst, only 0.26A could be provided without transitioning from charge to discharge of the battery.
Of course, it's just estimated values based on quick and dirty computations according to the design parameters.
Close measurements might be done to take in account many over parameters...
Great work Scott. Congrats for that next milestone.
Any chance that the charge and cutoff voltages be modified? I'd love to have a charge voltage of 4v and cutoff of 3.2v.
Did you bother looking at the datasheet for the charging IC?
Lithium cells need to work within a certain range
Really cool! It just so happened that I made a QC2.0 PCB very recently for a powerbank which used a TPS61088 and such an e-Fuse. That chip was QFN-20 and I just wish it was so easy to solder as this one (for SMD standards ofc)...
Thank you for sharing this useful designs 🥺. Found it very useful for my final project.
Isn't 2.5V too low for a lipo battery ?
If i buy the Kit, can i change the over-discharge to trigger at 3.00V ?
@GreatScott!
We need a radio walkie talkie kit
Simple one 💓
Sadly radios have problem that every country has different regulations for frequency band and max output power. It would make a hard video to cover all or nearly unusable video to cover only one country.
you need good soldering flux in smd soldering it make smd like 0805 0603 component a lot easier than without flux.
those soldering are horrible that will be fixed with a good plenty of flux and not rely on the flux of the solder
_"And a battery voltage of 4.19V, perfect!"_ 7:20
My dude, you're one number away from making that the perfect voltage and perfect number!
Better to err a bit low than a bit high when dealing with highly volatile lithium batteries. I would actually like to see an option to lower the charge voltage to 4.1V or 4.15V, that would give you a lot more cycles from the battery.
Congratulations on the collaborative project!
There is also electronic design minimalist, just we think about the amount of energy (equivalent of polluting emissions) to make each electronic devices since the various industrial emporiums.
I have just one maybe stupid question when it comes to soldering SMD components, especially SMD LED. When you showed heating of soldering iron it hit 360 degrees. From my experience that temperature and how long you keep soldering iron in contact with SMD components, you can easily damage them and indeed an SMD LED are in the greatest danger from such work. So the question is, is that temperature of soldering iron at 5:55 real temperature you used or just for show? Anyway great DIY kit, great video so as always, supper like.
Congratulations on the kit from a long time subscriber.
Thank you very much!
Hi , suggestion for next project, create output voltage 5v and current 20A needed for running multiple servos like humanoid robot. At present this is one of the limitations many of us face
that's a cool circuit, but the lower voltage "protection" chip is too low I think, as it is understood that a Lipo will be permanently damaged at a voltage below 3.0V, and it is recommended to not discharge a lipo less than 3.2-3.3V. So I would try to change the protection chip with one that cuts-off the battery at 3.2V or 3.3V. I do not know of such chip however
ABOUT TIME.............congratulations on the Elektor project.
Ah, Sunday with your video and a cup of coffee
Great collaboration project! How do I access the Gerber, schematic, and BOM?
the Gerber files and schematics as also the manual are at the bottom of the shop page: www.elektor.com/diy-lipo-supercharger-kit-by-greatscott
@@ElektorTV Where is the BOM file?
@@ElektorTV I HAVE BEEN LOOKING. NO JOY.
I rather woud have a protection at 2.9v or 3.0v instead of 2.5v !!
Many LiPo's get bloaded if you go that deep, that's why you have a protection in the first place !!
Don't understand why you deside 2.5v would be a good choice, I don't call that protection.
Anyway I like the rest of the circuit, good job !!!!
Hey Scott, im a mechatronics student and an aspiring engineer and I've been loving your content ever since i came accross your channel! I want to ask if you could share some of your background (universities/degrees).
Also, you have so much stuff in your workshop! So many (and most importantly expensive) machinery. You look so young so I was wondering if you could share your age.
(I understand that these are rather personal questions so I would understand if you don't want to answer!)
Nevertheless, keep up the great content!
A "walkie talkie" radio kit with both voice and texting would be awesome!
1A is really low these days; a RPi4 takes 3A to operate without problems; many tablets and phones take 2 and 2.5A when doing multimedia over wifi.The voltage is the easy parameter to boost or down with lots of tiny inexpensive dc-dc converters
Awesome project bro i recommend that you try to use the pam8403 and try to get rid of the noise that generated by the ic
Dude this is great but €20 for shipping plus €25 for the device is quite expensive, don’t you think?
For handsoldering 2-pin SMD components i find it most comfy to pre-tin one of the pads. if you do this, the part doesnt bounce around and also the connection is cleaner.
please do uni-solder kit next project. would be great with additional feature to drive c210 c115 tips.
Congrats on the elector project. Useful as always and thx for sharing.
less than 2 minutes in and I bought one! thanks!
Just watched your previous video related to this an hour ago.
BTW nice effort...Would you sell the already soldered verion that we will just use right outta the box??
very good project, congrats. A question, it is possible to use a load while charging?
Yes
I Read title and screamed “YES!”
This is fantastic! I added an SMD pot to your V1 model for a mini variable supply, but always got hit with overloads. Blown quite a few boost ICs... :D You mentioned the schematic and BOM would be available-- I'd like to try and do the same with the variable supply. Where might we be able to see those?
Especially now that the kits are unavailable. Definitely need at least 2.
If you use flat tip for the soldering iron and 0.5mm solder, your soldering will be WAY easier and cleaner! :)
Do a 12V 2A router UPS as many people are working from home and need to have a Router UPS for backup in case power goes out. A lot of youtubers have done it but i want to see how you would make one.
Cool idea!
Please lower your soldering temperature. 360 °C is too high, your flux is just burning away. 330 °C is sufficient.
I can't find the Gerber files. Does someone have a link to them?
the Gerber files and schematics as also the manual are at the bottom of the shop page: www.elektor.com/diy-lipo-supercharger-kit-by-greatscott
@@ThisOldChris the Gerber files and schematics as also the manual are at the bottom of the shop page: www.elektor.com/diy-lipo-supercharger-kit-by-greatscott, free for everyone :)
@@ElektorTV Thanks for the reply :D
Great updates Scott!. May I ask, how can I modify this circuit to work with a 2s lipo battery to output at least 2.1A (for use with servos and steppers motors)? or are there any commercial pcbs like this one but for 2s and at least 2.1A?
Well done ; Do you have a kit with an arduino (or comparable) that can switch multiple stuff together with a google mini (Purpose is that multiple voice commands switch multiple relay/transistor contacts) ? It would be super!! Thanks.
Congratulations on the success of your project.
Is it possible to leave the circuit plugged in to keep the battery charged?
I hear that this can damage LiPo batteries.
I would like to build an uninterruptible power supply for a project I'm working on.
Thanks
This looks like a handy device to have, good size too.
Cool project. Would it be possible for you to do a video on a circuit for hot swapping batteries? Maybe to power a raspberry pi with it? Keep up the good work.
2.5V is too low of a cutoff voltage for LiPo batteries. It's perfectly fine for LiIon batteries though, so I don't quite understand why this wasn't advertised as a LiIon board instead. Would've fit those batteries way better. For LiPos it would be better to set the cutoff point to around 3,3V. Another cool addition would be to have a jumper to switch the cutoff voltage between 3,3V and 2,5V, which would make it suitable for both LiPo and LiIon batteries by making sure both types of batteries get all of their capacity utilized without unnecessarily degrading the cells.
Could you state the design requirements that you had set out for the project: 5V In, 5V OUT/12V OUT @ 1A, etc. ? Thanks for the great project post.
i like that his face is just in the corner of the box, staring at you
This is a great circuit, i love the 5v 12v combo.
Does this even work with a true USB-C Wall-Adapter? Because the CC-Pins lack the needed Pull-Down resistors in the schematic.
Fantastic. Love the constant improvement. Oh, and you should check out AMTECH 559 flux, will make your solder joints perfect esp with low melt solder.
Following you since I started my Instrumentation Engineering and I displayed many of your projects in my college and received great appreciation. I gave full credit to you and used your EasyEDA designs to explain things to professors. I liked the short circuit protection video the most being an Instrumentation Engineer. And now in my final year in 2020-21 its a hats off to you that you are doing great. Love from India and thanks for always been my project partner and always the goto UA-camr whenever I don't understand certain things ❤️❤️❤️❤️
Hey, great Video! I plan to actually salvage a Battery from an old tablet that I no longer use. I think that with that circuit, it could make a great Powerbank!
I'd like to know how to set the high voltage output to 9v instead of 12v. I'm rather new to circuit design so I'm not sure where to start.
Hey greatscott, DIY or buy battery powered heated clothing. They can be very expensive, good chance i think you could beat them. Maybe just start with a jacket.
Great video by Great Scott
IDEA - something I am dying to see is "The best DIY car/motorbike/tractor - charger/maintainer in the world"
- The emphasis would be in the maintainer part
- Options: desulfactor, phone remote monitoring (alert?), battery type (VRLAB, Gel, AGM, Li, ...)
So many people have those batteries sitting for month between usage, and suffer the frustation of dealing with a dead battery when they actually need them
Scott.. I am an old fart (68) and I have decided to teach myself electronics.. ok, ok..stop laughing.. all of you!! Most of this stuff is still over my head but you explain it so well that it helps me to understand. Yes, it does take me a bit longer now that I am as old as dirt..... I just wanted to say thanks Scott.. your show here is outstanding.. especially for those young 'uns that have a brain that can go at warp speed instead the old oatmeal brain I have now.. But! I am having fun and maybe if I live another 20 years I can figure this out.. thanks again brother carry on and have a Merry Christmas!
2:35 I have not a single USB-C device at home... does that mean I’m outdated?
I have one new usb c phone, but the rest of my stuff is micro usb. Would prefer that.
yes
@Joachim Shekelberg I have USB-C in my phone and im not fan of it. Granted I have had this phone a couple years now but the port is failing. Panel mounted USB is much easier to repair, but nowadays no one is using them as it takes so much more space.
Just ordered one. Interesting on the Elektor site, the specifications quote: "Overcurrent Detection as 10.0 A", is this a typo ?