This is exactly the content I've been looking for. Explanation that is deep enough and doesn't waste time or beat you over the head just to make a video longer. Keep it up man! I love it.
Interesting and useful facts: 1) If you only purchase 5 boards (instead of 10), the shipping cost is lower. 2) If you use "Panel by EasyEDA", you can fit more boards in one panel (2x5 panel in this case) This results in 100 boards (2x5x10) at the price of 2$ !!!
@@JS7457 I think the price is fixed depending on max board size, e.g. 5x5 or 10x10 cm. If you actual board is much smaller, then it can be "duplicated" on the 5x5 or 10x10 cm "panel". In that case you would get more boards for the same price.
A big thing that helped me building buck/boost converters is knowing the ideal values of the inductor without needing to reference the datasheet each time (especially with general purpose switch controllers that might not have the specifics for inductors). I found an equation online for estimating the required value of the coil in a buck/boost converter, I then plugged this equation into a spreadsheet so if I need to build anything all I need is the input voltage, output voltage, frequency, and max current. This helps save space on the board and money in your pocket rather than going straight for the largest reasonable value. Not a huge savings unless you make a lot of boards but it's still helpful for making good buck/boosts. The value in henrys is L=((vin-vout)*vout)/(vin*Imax*hz*0.35). Thanks again for yet another awesome video Great Scott!
LOVE THESE KIND OF VIDEOS!! u blond german nerd who knows how to shrink a like 3-4 weeks project in 11 minutes and gives the importance of showing its own fails as part of the process of learning. Thank you for making such a good quality videos!
As someone who knows how painful it can be to design, layout, and manufacture PCBs, you made it look really easy! Their software looks very much like Altium only web-based, and a few thousand dollars less too! A few tips for soldering SMT components: Make sure your Gerber files do not have a solder paste layer if you intend to hand-solder the components rather than a pick and place machine. This will mean your boards are (mostly) flat and free of excess solder which makes it much easier. If there is extra solder from the solder paste or HASL finish, then use solder braid/wick to remove it. Soldering SMT capacitors and resistors, apply solder to the PCB on one of the pads of the component and keep the iron on that pad. Using steel needle nose tweezers, slide the component onto the solder pad. Remove the iron and let the solder joint cool. To make sure it is flat to the PCB, rest the tweezers on the top side of the component with very light force and briefly touch the iron to the pad. Then simply solder the other pad. ICs are pretty much the same. Apply solder to one pin on the PCB, slide the IC into place with tweezers making sure the other pins line up correctly, remove the iron and let the joint cool. Make sure it is flat against the PCB, then solder the other pins starting with the pin most opposite. I find this method more reliable and produces less thermal stress than heat reflow with a hot air gun. If you are going to heat reflow after soldering for presentation, try using flux jelly in a syringe from the usual suppliers. It helps for faster reflow and a nice shiny finish. Makes soldering a lot easier for me! Hope this helps! Keep up the great work with the entertaining and informative vids :)
His SMD soldering ain't that good at all. Try to hold a resistor/capacitor with tweezers in place and then solder one end of it - and you can easily solder another one after that. Same with ICs in QFP, SOT23 and other packages with leads - solder one of them by holding IC in place with tweezers - and you can finish other ones easily. Watching resistor flipping up during soldering in this video is a pain.
I don't know ....why....I just love your videos...I am addicted..you are really great in electronics and all. I am watching your channel since last 7 to 8 month but you always inspire me...thanks for such a nice and good content. Love from India...😀😀😁😁
Wow. 3 in one board Edit: forgot to finish my comment lol. Anyway, I used your easy Eda schematic in a project of mine and added the traces to a single board. It’s impressive. Works perfect and now I have a complete. Present for my 10 year old brother. Thx man. This is the type of channel I like on UA-cam.
Imagine if JLCPCB allowed you to share a link to a project/cart, which would not only include the PCB, but also all the necessary parts, so any one of us could easily order a complete set.
I'm not really an expert in pcb design, but I always use planes in the power sections to avoid drop power problems. Thanks for the video, everything is really well explained.
Yes times are changing. And what's also amazing if someone creates a circuit symbol or footprint for a component it will be automatically open source so you can find nearly everthing in their parts search.
I am not worthy. You are truly an engineer. I love your presentation style and seamless editing. I learn so much from just 1 of your videos. Keep broadcasting.
I'd love if you explained more why the first variation of your pcb didn't work properly in the video. The requirement for shorter and wider traces was probably mentioned in datasheets, so we have to give it more attention in our projects :)
So far I've ordered PCBs from Seeed, and Smart-Prototyping, but this... this beats all of them. Thank you for advertising them. Looks like I will order all my postponed PCBs at once tomorrow :D.
this video clearly/directly showed how much patience,hassle,experience is required for making my own stuff great jooooob broo and please we need more videos from the technology, u are genius and god bless u,
Great Scott, thank you! Extremely clear instructions on selection, design, sourcing, testing. You’re making my bigger projects possible. Plus, power supply has always been my biggest question, not anymore, I’ll follow your path on this. Thanks Again, Davidian.
This guy does makes amazing videos - but I don't know how many more I can watch. I think I'm approaching the line between being inspired to try some of more more ambitious ideas and feeling discouraged that he accomplished more in one video than I have in my last nine projects combined!
not suitable for RPi3 as it needs more than 2A, suggested 3A if using peripherals... can you suggest some change to make it work in this scenario? A different IC, which one?
M Sana: moron, nobody asked you anything... if he's kind to answer, well, if not no problem, in any case not your business... and i added the stuff about RPi3 he was missing... i only asked, not forced him and i'm fine if he does not answer in any case...
donpalmera I don't understand why you want that. Each conversion wastes a bit of power since efficiency of these circuits is never one hundred percent. You can add a tiny low-dropout regulator to go from 3.7 to 3.3 volts. I did this recently and I'm a newbie :)
I'm also working on a Piboy project at the moment using the RPI3 and even though 2-3amps are recommended, the Pi3 is perfectly fine with 1A if you don't connect to many peripherals.
The TP4056 has a solder pad on the bottom side to reject resistive heat. As a good thermal management practice, there should be multiple PTH connected to the bottom layer and a large continuous plane on the bottom layer to act as a radiation plate. Also, if the W*h of the lithium cell used is less than 4 NiMH cells, there is nothing to gain in run time, only lower weight and convenience, if appropriate.
You are the f***ing best UA-camr I know!!! Please keep up the vids, they are awesome. They help me with some many thing.I always have questions about these things and I always just find the answers on your channel.
Can you please describe what was the problem with your problematic layout. Really curious. I see no big differences in your first and second layout so will be appreciated for detailed descriptions.
I had struggle in charging and battery management Circuitry.. Awesome Work.. so much patience.. Great Scott-Great Work as always.. Thanks for your time and efforts.. Love from INDIA.
Hey! I ordered your PCB and the components. Looking forward to putting the parts together. One thing you should have mentioned: the shipping cost. Its not terrible but 2$ for the PCB and 7$ for shipping is something that should be mentioned. Cheers
The shipping depends on where you live, so, of course he shouldn't say the price for that. Also, he doesn't get ANY money at all for you buying that, what makes you think you are entitled to criticize?
Very educational! If advertisement was always done this way I wouldn't mind it. I just created an account there and will be ordering my next PCB from there. Very convenient! Thank you!
!!!! DUDE !!!! !!!! YOU ARE AWESOME !!!! AN ABSOLUTE GENIUS !!!! Please keep up the VERY inspiring open-source tinkering, designing, innovating and help you give the world !! YOU ROCK !!!!
I understand this video is intended for people to DIY their own PCB, but is it possible for you to put those PCBs on ebay or something to buy? I would be totally cool with spending a few bucks on a pcb like that (extra revenue source?) instead of going to the trouble to hand solder SMD components and hope it works.
and even though he paid the extra dollar (I'm assuming because he had that option highlighted) it still took a week. Hard to complain because it's only a dollar but c'mon
@@somedude2492 Indeed, it's pretty fast indeed. No one seems to mention how much the shipping actually costs. I had a bunch of boards made for $20, shipping was an extra $35. So this $2 for 10 boards is not really $2, is it?
I like the way you do presentation, printing out datasheet and pointing out important detail using highlighter pen on the datasheet. Keep making good video
Max Wittelsbach I was thinking on that, but the resistance in the PCB would be that remarkable against the load, but well... Seems logic, increasing the section results and lower resistance, what I was asking is his train of thought, cuz he would look at everything before getting into conduits, only experience would tell you to look there
Probably too late for you to still read up on this video but I have a question Why did you connect CS on the FS312F-G to ground on the board instead of BAT-? Or why did you connect BAT on the TP4056 to ground with a 22μF while the datasheet says 10μF? (Also in EasyEDA you are supposed to mark not connected pins with the X no connect flag from the wiring tools)
this is a really well done video, I can tell you put a lot of effort into the timing and pacing of the video. It shows all of the detail while keeping the video short enough to be interesting and it is really perfect, so excellent job as always!
Thank you so much for making videos like these! It's because of people like you and bigclivedotcom who make such amazing videos that I'm working to become an electrical engineer!
It's probably worth a look into NiMH batteries because a good NiMH battery can come very close to a lower capacity LiPo in power density. For what you lose in capacity you gain in safety, as NiMH batteries don't have violent failure modes like LiPo batteries do. They can vent and leak, but they won't explode or catch fire. The reason a LiPo charger won't work on a NiMH is because as a NiMH battery is charged to near maximum capacity, its voltage will drop slightly, which can confuse a LiPo charger into thinking the battery needs more current.
I do the same with old battery packs to get 18650 cells (and occasionally some weird flat cells), but I'm too lazy to match the capacities of the used cells and usually just end up using them individually or in pairs. Some crap battery packs use crap batteries from the start, or have really bad balancing which ruins the cells. I have a pile of dubious 18650s which have nearly no capacity from some of the cheap Chinese battery packs. About the only thing they're good for is using in single cell battery banks with one of those LED USB flashlight things.
Thanks for the video. I've considering buying expensive breakout boards for individual chips and bodging the whole thing together for a project that I'm working on, because I'm nervous about designing my own circuit board. But after watching this video, I think I have the confidence to get my own boards made. Cheers!
I buy One 11.6V ready made lithium ion battery. It not contain any protection Circuit or balance Charging connecter so what I do for balance charging my lithium ion battery pack.
I just ordered a batch of boards and parts! Looking at the layout, I noticed the ground/thermal pad on the TP4056. This would be tough to connect with plain hand soldering (I also noticed in the how-to-solder video you just attached the leads of this chip and seemed not to solder the pad underneth) If i run in to heat issues with the TP4056 I might make another batch of boards with some vias on that pad and a larger copper region added on the back layer as a heatsink. I saw in some other tuturials (Including one by Dave /EEVblog) that you can use this technique to solder the pad from the underside, wicking solder through the vias with the help of some flux gel. Never made PCBs or used Easyeda but in 20 minutes or so I was able to cobble together the changes I mentioned above. This is fun!
as far as i know if you don't drain it too long the battery will recover a little... but the opinions, like everywhere, go from "never discharge it below 3,7" to "i discharged the battery to 0 volts and i can still recharge it without problems"... what i've learned is: since it's a bag full of chemicals, you can only test what works best for you and what you are comfortable with
Bigclive has a video on it. If you discharge it to 0 V, it'll still work but it won't be as happy anymore. You'd have to reverse charge it to a negative voltage before it shorts internally. When you have cells in series, you need to be careful. That's when cells can be reverse charged and cause mayhem when the pack is recharged.
Congratulations on this awesome project, it must have taken you many hours of research going through all the datasheets. Thank you for sharing and please keep producing these great videos.
Hi GreatScott, can you explain what the problem was with the first version of the board? In my last video I made a mini boost converter by putting an MT3608 on an SMD adapter board (see ua-cam.com/video/K7Lv5FWTX9Y/v-deo.html ). The output current I measured seemed to be quite limited and in my case the capacitors are too small. I also think the small 22uH coil I use is too light for higher loads. Thank you for making your videos. They help me a lot to understand things! +1
Not too long ago i helped a friend designing a circuit board. 2.4x2.3 cm, ~30 connection-pads to diferent boards, 2 connectors, voltage regulator, 9axis sensor, infrared sensor, molex connector - and a freaking 40 pin chip. took us 2 days to get all the traces on the tiny board. When we finally managed to squeeze in all the connections we enlarged the power-traces. The datatraces were 0.154 mm, power was 1.5 mm :P better overkill than sorry. And darn - all those wires.... we had to skip layers so often to fit in all the traces that we had something like 150 holes on that little board.
You are amazing at your craft! I'm learning so much more from you than my professors at my university. And this video clearly explains how I'm going to approach my next project. Thank you so much for your videos.
I wish I could do things like this. I am trying to reach my self or learn as much as I can. I'm a little old for school. but I use Google and UA-cam. my goals are to build a inverter to power my off grid home. and some big DC motor controllers. and a battery charger for a electric vehicle conversion. some reason I don't like to buy anything. I want to make it myself . someday I may reach my goal. it may not be how I want to. but maybe I will get the projects done. but there is a lot of other things that I'd like to build. I have learned a lot in the last year and 9 months. that's when I really got into electronics. the DC motor controller is what got me started. I have worked in electrical for years. home and auto. so I have a little knowledge to start. your video's are a great help. you explain things well. and at a pace I can keep up with. I haven't gotten in to the smd things yet. still tinkering with through hole devices . but hope to improve my work station. and buy better tools. a good temp controlled solder iron. and supply's. maybe try etching PCBs. great video as usual. thanks ...
You make awesome videos GreatScott! I'm learning a lot watching all of your videos. I understand electronics to a limited degree with a solid foundation in passive components but designing with ICs trip me up. The information provided in your videos along with the resources of EasyEDA designing software, LCSC parts store, and JLC PCB will greatly help in my future projects. I hope you keep making high quality, informative, in depth, interesting project videos, even if a few of your more advanced videos are difficult to grasp, I not only steadily understand more of your content but electronics design more with every video.
This is great! I had the same problem, trying to find an all-in-one board to power and charge my small projects. I think I'll order a batch of boards and assemble them myself. This is going to be fun!
Ur awesome bro!! I wish I could be ur student I love electronics , when I was a child my dream was to become a electronic engineer but I never learned enough it's my passion to pay attention but I made alot of mistakes so I am trying so hard to get back on my toes!!! I appreciate ur videos very much thanks
One problem I've been facing with TP4056 with protection board - and that is present in your circuit as well - is the 1A limitation. It's great for smaller projects, but for projects where you need more current it let you down. Power banks, for stance, smartphones demand up to 2a. So what I end up using is the unprotected board in conjunction with a small BMS (the model depends on what I need). So, it would be a good idea to create one unprotected as well, for your future projects. ;)
Cool! I love eatching your videos. I learn something new and I feel I have not wasted my time. You can only eatch so many 'Fail' videos and so many ' Why Japan.. Why?' videos in a lifetime.
08:17 exactly that is the reason I etch my stuff by myself, waiting a week to then figure out there was something wrong with my design and wasted 10 pcbs at once. Then redesigning and waiting one week again .... Instead my whole etching process doesnt take longer than one hour so I can easily debug my circuit in one day :) But if you have plenty of time and patience, why not...
this video clearly/directly showed how much patience,hassle,experience is required for making my own stuff
to make it well yeah, you can slap stuff together as a total amature too though
hello, you called me ?
Sayantan Maiti this is a fake comment if I've ever seen one
well said Sayantan Maiti
Sayantan Maiti i
This is exactly the content I've been looking for. Explanation that is deep enough and doesn't waste time or beat you over the head just to make a video longer. Keep it up man! I love it.
Interesting and useful facts:
1) If you only purchase 5 boards (instead of 10), the shipping cost is lower.
2) If you use "Panel by EasyEDA", you can fit more boards in one panel (2x5 panel in this case)
This results in 100 boards (2x5x10) at the price of 2$ !!!
where is "Panel by EasyEDA" ?
JS7457 Go to "order PCB"
And then it's on the bottom of all board properties.
Christian B ry but the price rises.
Cool profile picture
@@JS7457 I think the price is fixed depending on max board size, e.g. 5x5 or 10x10 cm. If you actual board is much smaller, then it can be "duplicated" on the 5x5 or 10x10 cm "panel". In that case you would get more boards for the same price.
A big thing that helped me building buck/boost converters is knowing the ideal values of the inductor without needing to reference the datasheet each time (especially with general purpose switch controllers that might not have the specifics for inductors). I found an equation online for estimating the required value of the coil in a buck/boost converter, I then plugged this equation into a spreadsheet so if I need to build anything all I need is the input voltage, output voltage, frequency, and max current. This helps save space on the board and money in your pocket rather than going straight for the largest reasonable value. Not a huge savings unless you make a lot of boards but it's still helpful for making good buck/boosts. The value in henrys is L=((vin-vout)*vout)/(vin*Imax*hz*0.35). Thanks again for yet another awesome video Great Scott!
3:03
_you are the only person I know who uses a _*_ruler to highlight_*
Genius!
poppet pala "in order to make it straight ofcourse" :)
Brilliant, but he forgot his ruler at 3:45
thats just german precision ^^
but if you see, he didnt even need it. lol
LOVE THESE KIND OF VIDEOS!! u blond german nerd who knows how to shrink a like 3-4 weeks project in 11 minutes and gives the importance of showing its own fails as part of the process of learning. Thank you for making such a good quality videos!
No problem :-)
As someone who knows how painful it can be to design, layout, and manufacture PCBs, you made it look really easy! Their software looks very much like Altium only web-based, and a few thousand dollars less too!
A few tips for soldering SMT components:
Make sure your Gerber files do not have a solder paste layer if you intend to hand-solder the components rather than a pick and place machine. This will mean your boards are (mostly) flat and free of excess solder which makes it much easier. If there is extra solder from the solder paste or HASL finish, then use solder braid/wick to remove it.
Soldering SMT capacitors and resistors, apply solder to the PCB on one of the pads of the component and keep the iron on that pad. Using steel needle nose tweezers, slide the component onto the solder pad. Remove the iron and let the solder joint cool. To make sure it is flat to the PCB, rest the tweezers on the top side of the component with very light force and briefly touch the iron to the pad. Then simply solder the other pad.
ICs are pretty much the same. Apply solder to one pin on the PCB, slide the IC into place with tweezers making sure the other pins line up correctly, remove the iron and let the joint cool. Make sure it is flat against the PCB, then solder the other pins starting with the pin most opposite.
I find this method more reliable and produces less thermal stress than heat reflow with a hot air gun.
If you are going to heat reflow after soldering for presentation, try using flux jelly in a syringe from the usual suppliers. It helps for faster reflow and a nice shiny finish. Makes soldering a lot easier for me!
Hope this helps! Keep up the great work with the entertaining and informative vids :)
He bost
He charg
But also protec
Márk Bikali lmao
Márk Bikali boost* charge* protect*
TheBlinkstyKrab No.
hahahaha
Aditya Goturu
The meme he used requires the bad spelling
I'd seriously buy this as a kit. Great job!
Interesting idea...
(GreatScott please do this)
We share the same thoughts
Ye but as much THT as possible, I have no means to properly solder SMD.
Not that I wouldn't have the tools I'm just not physically able to do so xS
A week ago I did my first smd soldering! It went very good thanks to your tips! Thank you very much!
You're welcome :-)
His SMD soldering ain't that good at all. Try to hold a resistor/capacitor with tweezers in place and then solder one end of it - and you can easily solder another one after that. Same with ICs in QFP, SOT23 and other packages with leads - solder one of them by holding IC in place with tweezers - and you can finish other ones easily. Watching resistor flipping up during soldering in this video is a pain.
I don't know ....why....I just love your videos...I am addicted..you are really great in electronics and all. I am watching your channel since last 7 to 8 month but you always inspire me...thanks for such a nice and good content. Love from India...😀😀😁😁
Wow. 3 in one board
Edit: forgot to finish my comment lol. Anyway, I used your easy Eda schematic in a project of mine and added the traces to a single board. It’s impressive. Works perfect and now I have a complete. Present for my 10 year old brother. Thx man. This is the type of channel I like on UA-cam.
all week waiting for u scotte ❤❤❤
keep up man
Me Too
mubark osama His actual name is Jeremy Pascal
John David thanks to tell me ❤☺
He actually shows his face and says his real name in a Q/A video.Here's the link;
ua-cam.com/video/0Xo0oKr8Thc/v-deo.htmlm10s
John David yeah i remember this one
I just started using easy eda and it by far the most intuitive pcb design software I've used.
Imagine if JLCPCB allowed you to share a link to a project/cart, which would not only include the PCB, but also all the necessary parts, so any one of us could easily order a complete set.
I'm not really an expert in pcb design, but I always use planes in the power sections to avoid drop power problems. Thanks for the video, everything is really well explained.
That custom board service sounds amazing! Coupled with that diagram app and it looks like you could prototype anything super quick
Yes, exactly my thoughts. That is why I had no problems promoting them a bit ;-)
I still remember ordering custom PCB a few years ago. It took 2 weeks and I paid 80 dollars for just one piece (80*80 mm). Times are changing...
Yes times are changing. And what's also amazing if someone creates a circuit symbol or footprint for a component it will be automatically open source so you can find nearly everthing in their parts search.
MrMastrTroll the going price these days for 10pcs of a 10x10cm board is $5-10, excluding shipping
not to mention it is so cheap!
I am not worthy. You are truly an engineer. I love your presentation style and seamless editing. I learn so much from just 1 of your videos. Keep broadcasting.
I'd love if you explained more why the first variation of your pcb didn't work properly in the video. The requirement for shorter and wider traces was probably mentioned in datasheets, so we have to give it more attention in our projects :)
yes, promised explanation was the only thing missing in this video... :-)
Most likely because he didn't follow the recommended pcb layout application note in the data sheet for it
@@biisnov770 I don't believe the PCB design can affect the performance this much at merely 1.2MHz
So far I've ordered PCBs from Seeed, and Smart-Prototyping, but this... this beats all of them. Thank you for advertising them. Looks like I will order all my postponed PCBs at once tomorrow :D.
Warts and all, thank you for sharing. Always worth the time to watch anything you post👍🇬🇧
Thanks mate :-)
GreatScott! No. Thank you m8✌️ peace
this video clearly/directly showed how much patience,hassle,experience is required for making my own stuff great jooooob broo and please we need more videos from the technology, u are genius and god bless u,
Great Scott, thank you! Extremely clear instructions on selection, design, sourcing, testing. You’re making my bigger projects possible. Plus, power supply has always been my biggest question, not anymore, I’ll follow your path on this.
Thanks Again,
Davidian.
This guy does makes amazing videos - but I don't know how many more I can watch. I think I'm approaching the line between being inspired to try some of more more ambitious ideas and feeling discouraged that he accomplished more in one video than I have in my last nine projects combined!
Boost 3.7v to 5v so that the board being powered can regulate it down to 3.3v
There are many projects where you can use this circuit. Not just with the Raspberry Pi.
not suitable for RPi3 as it needs more than 2A, suggested 3A if using peripherals... can you suggest some change to make it work in this scenario? A different IC, which one?
M Sana: moron, nobody asked you anything... if he's kind to answer, well, if not no problem, in any case not your business... and i added the stuff about RPi3 he was missing... i only asked, not forced him and i'm fine if he does not answer in any case...
donpalmera I don't understand why you want that. Each conversion wastes a bit of power since efficiency of these circuits is never one hundred percent. You can add a tiny low-dropout regulator to go from 3.7 to 3.3 volts. I did this recently and I'm a newbie :)
I'm also working on a Piboy project at the moment using the RPI3 and even though 2-3amps are recommended, the Pi3 is perfectly fine with 1A if you don't connect to many peripherals.
The TP4056 has a solder pad on the bottom side to reject resistive heat. As a good thermal management practice, there should be multiple PTH connected to the bottom layer and a large continuous plane on the bottom layer to act as a radiation plate. Also, if the W*h of the lithium cell used is less than 4 NiMH cells, there is nothing to gain in run time, only lower weight and convenience, if appropriate.
You are the f***ing best UA-camr I know!!!
Please keep up the vids, they are awesome. They help me with some many thing.I always have questions about these things and I always just find the answers on your channel.
Dude, you are the best. I am studying electrical and computer engineering, and i love watching your vids, you make everything seem so easy.
Can you please describe what was the problem with your problematic layout. Really curious. I see no big differences in your first and second layout so will be appreciated for detailed descriptions.
Serge Liskovsky he changed the protection ic and mosfet and it worked.
Probably too long tracks from switching IC to inductor. It is very important to keep these tracks short and fat!
Yeah, but it will be very good if some video can be made to compare errors in layout and some "scientific" explanations around.
Making the tracks short has the same effect as making them thicker... less resistance
Aidan Fransen less inductance to be more accurate.
I had struggle in charging and battery management Circuitry.. Awesome Work.. so much patience.. Great Scott-Great Work as always.. Thanks for your time and efforts.. Love from INDIA.
I have no clue what is going on, but I still watch his videos.
If you keep watching his videos, you will soon be able to understand the whole things. Keep watching...
*You will learn one day young padawan...*
@@silikoncomputers3922 Agreed, the more I watch, I am now starting to get all the details.
extremely cool of you to just continuing to put out high quality content for free!
Hey! I ordered your PCB and the components. Looking forward to putting the parts together. One thing you should have mentioned: the shipping cost. Its not terrible but 2$ for the PCB and 7$ for shipping is something that should be mentioned. Cheers
UA-cam comment that has criticized without even a molecule of condescension? I may need to lie down.
The shipping depends on where you live, so, of course he shouldn't say the price for that.
Also, he doesn't get ANY money at all for you buying that, what makes you think you are entitled to criticize?
Very educational! If advertisement was always done this way I wouldn't mind it. I just created an account there and will be ordering my next PCB from there. Very convenient! Thank you!
Excellent job, as always. You could use a Dummy Load, maybe a next project? regards
Proyectos LED hola gastoooon
dummy load @7:19 yes? (big green resistor)
I think he means a programmable one. Where you can set different values.
Yes I would want a high power dummy load.
!!!! DUDE !!!!
!!!! YOU ARE AWESOME !!!!
AN ABSOLUTE GENIUS !!!!
Please keep up the VERY inspiring open-source tinkering, designing, innovating and help you give the world !!
YOU ROCK !!!!
I understand this video is intended for people to DIY their own PCB, but is it possible for you to put those PCBs on ebay or something to buy? I would be totally cool with spending a few bucks on a pcb like that (extra revenue source?) instead of going to the trouble to hand solder SMD components and hope it works.
I would love to do that but I simply do not have time to produce these boards. Sorry.
Have you thought of selling as a kit ?
GreatScott! Try to ask elecrow, which produces and sells such boards while giving the original creator a small amount for each sold unit
Use google - there are literally hundreds of those boards available.
BoomBrush get the easy eda file from the description, then order some pcbs.
I have fallen in love with this channel
can you sell these on ebay for us?
Wow ... your work is (as mostly i saw) very accurate and you did double (and tripple) check everything.
Great job!
It's satisfying to watch you work
I love how 1 day difference in build time cost 29$.
and even though he paid the extra dollar (I'm assuming because he had that option highlighted) it still took a week. Hard to complain because it's only a dollar but c'mon
@@alexj5940 it is a week for it to be manufactured and shipped. It was made in two days and took 5 to go from China to Germany.
@@somedude2492 Indeed, it's pretty fast indeed. No one seems to mention how much the shipping actually costs. I had a bunch of boards made for $20, shipping was an extra $35. So this $2 for 10 boards is not really $2, is it?
I like the way you do presentation, printing out datasheet and pointing out important detail using highlighter pen on the datasheet. Keep making good video
What was the problem with first design? Would you care to explain your train of thought, why would the first design won't hold the +5 output(boosted)?
ua-cam.com/video/aND0j2Y2IkM/v-deo.html
???
Sorry I thought you meant the first board he showed
The traces were probably too small (voltage drop against them)
Max Wittelsbach I was thinking on that, but the resistance in the PCB would be that remarkable against the load, but well... Seems logic, increasing the section results and lower resistance, what I was asking is his train of thought, cuz he would look at everything before getting into conduits, only experience would tell you to look there
ONE OF THE BEST THING YOU'VE EVER SHARED!!!!
Thank you
Probably too late for you to still read up on this video but I have a question
Why did you connect CS on the FS312F-G to ground on the board instead of BAT-? Or why did you connect BAT on the TP4056 to ground with a 22μF while the datasheet says 10μF?
(Also in EasyEDA you are supposed to mark not connected pins with the X no connect flag from the wiring tools)
BAT- is in fact GND of the overall circuit, it is designated incorrectly in the datasheet of DW01-G.
this is a really well done video, I can tell you put a lot of effort into the timing and pacing of the video. It shows all of the detail while keeping the video short enough to be interesting and it is really perfect, so excellent job as always!
6:07 it says IDONTKNOW in file explorer.
Thank you so much for making videos like these! It's because of people like you and bigclivedotcom who make such amazing videos that I'm working to become an electrical engineer!
So, we can use EasyEDA to design, publish AND build boards? By that I mean, their partner will sell and send the BOM to me?
Yes. If you order your parts through LCSC, then they even ship them with the PCBs and you can save shipping costs. It is really convenient.
Now a days you are earning very much as most of the video ofyour I am opening is showing ads great(keep it up)
I am loving watching your videos
Can this be used on 18650 cells too?
+HellFireno88 Yes
I know. But saying 18650 is a quick way to say li-ion 3.7v cells.
NiMh batteries should not be charged with a LiPo battery charger as the method of charging is different.
It's probably worth a look into NiMH batteries because a good NiMH battery can come very close to a lower capacity LiPo in power density. For what you lose in capacity you gain in safety, as NiMH batteries don't have violent failure modes like LiPo batteries do. They can vent and leak, but they won't explode or catch fire.
The reason a LiPo charger won't work on a NiMH is because as a NiMH battery is charged to near maximum capacity, its voltage will drop slightly, which can confuse a LiPo charger into thinking the battery needs more current.
I do the same with old battery packs to get 18650 cells (and occasionally some weird flat cells), but I'm too lazy to match the capacities of the used cells and usually just end up using them individually or in pairs. Some crap battery packs use crap batteries from the start, or have really bad balancing which ruins the cells.
I have a pile of dubious 18650s which have nearly no capacity from some of the cheap Chinese battery packs. About the only thing they're good for is using in single cell battery banks with one of those LED USB flashlight things.
THIS IS THE VIDEO WE'VE ALL BEEN WAITING FOR
Would you sell these fully made ?
Wait a while and the Chinese will offer it
Thanks for the video. I've considering buying expensive breakout boards for individual chips and bodging the whole thing together for a project that I'm working on, because I'm nervous about designing my own circuit board. But after watching this video, I think I have the confidence to get my own boards made. Cheers!
I buy One 11.6V ready made lithium ion battery. It not contain any protection Circuit or balance Charging connecter so what I do for balance charging my lithium ion battery pack.
I just ordered a batch of boards and parts!
Looking at the layout, I noticed the ground/thermal pad on the TP4056. This would be tough to connect with plain hand soldering (I also noticed in the how-to-solder video you just attached the leads of this chip and seemed not to solder the pad underneth)
If i run in to heat issues with the TP4056 I might make another batch of boards with some vias on that pad and a larger copper region added on the back layer as a heatsink. I saw in some other tuturials (Including one by Dave /EEVblog) that you can use this technique to solder the pad from the underside, wicking solder through the vias with the help of some flux gel.
Never made PCBs or used Easyeda but in 20 minutes or so I was able to cobble together the changes I mentioned above. This is fun!
Aren't Li-Po batteries damaged if their voltage decreases below 3.2 V, meaning that your over discharge protection circuit isn't harch enough? :)
as far as i know if you don't drain it too long the battery will recover a little... but the opinions, like everywhere, go from "never discharge it below 3,7" to "i discharged the battery to 0 volts and i can still recharge it without problems"... what i've learned is: since it's a bag full of chemicals, you can only test what works best for you and what you are comfortable with
Bigclive has a video on it. If you discharge it to 0 V, it'll still work but it won't be as happy anymore. You'd have to reverse charge it to a negative voltage before it shorts internally.
When you have cells in series, you need to be careful. That's when cells can be reverse charged and cause mayhem when the pack is recharged.
Congratulations on this awesome project, it must have taken you many hours of research going through all the datasheets. Thank you for sharing and please keep producing these great videos.
Thank you :-) And yes, it took a while.
Hi GreatScott, can you explain what the problem was with the first version of the board? In my last video I made a mini boost converter by putting an MT3608 on an SMD adapter board (see ua-cam.com/video/K7Lv5FWTX9Y/v-deo.html ). The output current I measured seemed to be quite limited and in my case the capacitors are too small. I also think the small 22uH coil I use is too light for higher loads. Thank you for making your videos. They help me a lot to understand things! +1
Not too long ago i helped a friend designing a circuit board. 2.4x2.3 cm, ~30 connection-pads to diferent boards, 2 connectors, voltage regulator, 9axis sensor, infrared sensor, molex connector - and a freaking 40 pin chip.
took us 2 days to get all the traces on the tiny board.
When we finally managed to squeeze in all the connections we enlarged the power-traces. The datatraces were 0.154 mm, power was 1.5 mm :P better overkill than sorry.
And darn - all those wires.... we had to skip layers so often to fit in all the traces that we had something like 150 holes on that little board.
SELL THEM
Can't wait for the new version of the console and all the changes you've made to it. :) Awesome video as always!
That was the best sponsored video I have ever seen. Good job.
Got notification about new video, came, LIKED, started watching it.. This much I love GreatScott. :)
You are amazing at your craft! I'm learning so much more from you than my professors at my university. And this video clearly explains how I'm going to approach my next project. Thank you so much for your videos.
You improve on existing solutions and then just release your designs for free. You're awesome.
This is awesome dude! I've been waiting for something like this!
Man, I've just noticed that you already have 600k subs.
I've been here since the 10k days, keep it up man! :)
Thanks mate :-)
You mean over 1 million?
this is so cool to watch i hope I'll have the same amount of skill and knowledge in the future
I wish I could do things like this. I am trying to reach my self or learn as much as I can. I'm a little old for school. but I use Google and UA-cam. my goals are to build a inverter to power my off grid home. and some big DC motor controllers. and a battery charger for a electric vehicle conversion. some reason I don't like to buy anything. I want to make it myself . someday I may reach my goal. it may not be how I want to. but maybe I will get the projects done. but there is a lot of other things that I'd like to build. I have learned a lot in the last year and 9 months. that's when I really got into electronics. the DC motor controller is what got me started. I have worked in electrical for years. home and auto. so I have a little knowledge to start. your video's are a great help. you explain things well. and at a pace I can keep up with. I haven't gotten in to the smd things yet. still tinkering with through hole devices . but hope to improve my work station. and buy better tools. a good temp controlled solder iron. and supply's. maybe try etching PCBs. great video as usual. thanks ...
You make awesome videos GreatScott! I'm learning a lot watching all of your videos. I understand electronics to a limited degree with a solid foundation in passive components but designing with ICs trip me up. The information provided in your videos along with the resources of EasyEDA designing software, LCSC parts store, and JLC PCB will greatly help in my future projects. I hope you keep making high quality, informative, in depth, interesting project videos, even if a few of your more advanced videos are difficult to grasp, I not only steadily understand more of your content but electronics design more with every video.
Awesome man. Stoked to see their board factory was fast and accurate. This has convinced me to give them a shot.
For USB set output to 5.5V, don't forget about USB connector "eats" ~0.22V on current ~1A, so USB load gets ~5.2V
This is great! I had the same problem, trying to find an all-in-one board to power and charge my small projects.
I think I'll order a batch of boards and assemble them myself. This is going to be fun!
Ur awesome bro!! I wish I could be ur student I love electronics , when I was a child my dream was to become a electronic engineer but I never learned enough it's my passion to pay attention but I made alot of mistakes so I am trying so hard to get back on my toes!!! I appreciate ur videos very much thanks
Dieser Schaltkreis wird die Welt des Akku aufladens revolutionieren! 😂🤣
Finally, an alternative to the powerboost 1000c!
geeze ultimate diy.... your own pcb board... im still trying to figure out how to wire existing pcbs i wanna play with... nice
One problem I've been facing with TP4056 with protection board - and that is present in your circuit as well - is the 1A limitation. It's great for smaller projects, but for projects where you need more current it let you down. Power banks, for stance, smartphones demand up to 2a. So what I end up using is the unprotected board in conjunction with a small BMS (the model depends on what I need). So, it would be a good idea to create one unprotected as well, for your future projects. ;)
Cool!
I love eatching your videos.
I learn something new and I feel I have not wasted my time.
You can only eatch so many 'Fail' videos and so many ' Why Japan.. Why?' videos in a lifetime.
Your videos are always educational and motivating! Thanks for another great one, mr. Scott :)
Thanks for all videos you make. Please make a video on curcit for output of 5V and current of 2A
Hey greatscott! You are best youtuber! You have clear Steps!
Thanks for making the Gerbers available!
Golden Axe!!! wonderful, spent hours playing it with my sister
Perfect Timing of this Video, the notification came out and watched this immediately really need this tutorial
Thumbs up if Scott should make a vid on how to assemble a quick charge circuit just like motorola's charger. That would be awesome :D
Man you really are amazing, sometimes I'm just in awe... thanks for everything you do and the way you explain it, that's how I'm able to learn!
Looks wayyyy cheaper than ExpressPCB. Thanks so much! Good video!
08:17 exactly that is the reason I etch my stuff by myself, waiting a week to then figure out there was something wrong with my design and wasted 10 pcbs at once. Then redesigning and waiting one week again .... Instead my whole etching process doesnt take longer than one hour so I can easily debug my circuit in one day :) But if you have plenty of time and patience, why not...
Exactly what I was looking for, even what I searched for!
Built this using my DIY re-flow oven! It works great!! Thanks!!!
Who love Great Scot
Holy smokes $2.00 for 10 PCBs is AWESOME thank you for introducing me to that :D
Very impressive and persistant work. Having to watch it a couple of times to keep up with you.. Thanks for sharing and for the pcb info too
Very awesome, friend!
Your videos are truly great!
@ 0:10
Golden Axe game ! 😍😇🤗😆👌👍
I remember that one !
Thank you for the nice video Scott, makes me smile every time. Greetings from the "Bodensee".
Im learning a lot from your videos, thanks !