I precisely enjoy your reviews because of their expressive and genuinely honest nature. Not only that, they are very detailed and easy to consume. If i wasnt a student i would immediately support you with money. You‘re the only person I consider a genuine reviewer who goes into details
I was unaware that upon clicking on this video that This video would actually alter my life dramatically. In a way This video was like watching a good movie as it has left me thinking about it the entire day but beyond the thoughts, you have forced me to grow past Allen Edmonds now and I will no longer look at them the same as I once did. Please keep on doing what you’re doing. If you are not already I hope that you become a bigger shoe judge than Kirby Allison you’ve already proven that you have much more knowledge.
Once the founder of the corporations sell the company to private equity company, the quality of the products starts to decrease overtime for the worse.
Saying some things that I guess are obvious: There's a very large part of the consumer base for mens dress shoes which are you white collar workers working car-to-carpet. These people are busy and need the shoes to fulfill uniform standards, not because they care about wearing dress shoes. Also, their use case doesn't really require durability - these people are wearing their shoes for large parts of the day, but not necessarily doing a lot of walking, and certainly not on abrasive surfaces. Parallel point is that the cost of any product is not just the direct purchase price but also the cost of time and mental energy invested. If you're a white-collar worker optimizing over a very limited volume of uncommitted time each week, and you don't derive pleasure from investing time and energy into researching shoes, then doing so is very expensive. And, you have the disposable income to buy that time and energy back from the market by purchasing from a low-effort brand. AE is built for that market. They're a well-known brand and they have physical locations and quick shipping, which makes it easy and convenient to buy shoes and minimizes the time/energy costs. They are expensive because white collar workers typically have the disposable income and are used to the idea that they need to spend a good deal of money to present themselves as 'serious' people in the workplace. They can also guarantee most people a size that fits reasonably OK. People who are allocating low levels of mental energy to buying shoes will usually buy them last minute and don't have the patience for breaking in stiffer leather uppers, and AE provides that quick turnaround and softer leather. There's currently a compositional evolution taking place within the market for dress shoes - more people buying them as a hobby because of exposure to YT content etc., fewer people buying them for work as the WFH revolution has relaxed dress codes. So there's likely to be some deterioration of AE's customer base over time.
@@youtubetv4856 many offices switched to allow dress sneakers. A friend of mine works in NYC at an advertising firm that just switched to allow dress sneakers. A few others have done the same from what I understand. Suit and tie club is almost dead. I have been wearing them for years now instead of wearing shoes to formal functions. Regularly I am bare foot or in work boots AE dress sneakers are actually quite durable but I am saddened by the drop in quality of their shoes in the last 10 years. I do disagree with the video about the toe. I do know anyone who wants a stiff toe. I know a lot of people who wear a suit and tie everyday and the stiff toe is a killer on the feet.
@@jlozano2014 Beck and Sim isn't expensive enough. These are city workers who get bonuses and buy expensive watches with them, or people who work with and around such people. Also Beck and Sim is a totally different proposition, as you have to order months ahead of receipt of product, there are no stores you can walk into and walk out with a shoe, etc. Altogether, completely different product.
I appreciate the honesty and thoroughness of your video. For me, I have wide square shaped feet. They are the only brand at their price point which makes a super wide range of sizes. They are the analogy of New Balance in the athletic shoe world. I have suffered through a range of well made, handsome and expensive brands that just induce pain.
appreciate the honest reviews. I am obsessed with shoe videos but its quite rare for any of my shoe video guys to say anything negative about a shoe company especially Allen Edmonds, the cornerstone of American Goodyear welted shoes. Appreciate your videos just make more.
@@ruperttmls7985 I don’t think by much my friend. If anything, they do use a higher quality grain for the uppers. In fact, I would put them on the top as far as that’s concerned but their lasts Aren’t all that
Allen got stuck in time, so now is blown out of water even by something like 250usd bridlen shoes. 400 for such a shoe is daylight robbery. In todays age, that shoe is really more like 150usd shoe. If i was to spend 400 ish, i would go with tlb mallorca or carlos santos handgrade. edit: i commented before watching anything. Guy himself said its 200 shoes, and still he would be mad :) Honestly, its a really bad shoe for the price. edit2: oh snap, he actually said its 150 dollar shoe at the end of the video :)
@@don_kandon6006 most, and this was not specifically aimed at you, but most lack diversity in mindset when it comes to shoes. Allen Edmond is a shoe that will last you a lifetime. not only that, but you can wear them every single day repetitively and all day long. They are a type of dress shoe that is specifically designed for that and this is the only reason why they are considered entry-level level, due to the fact that most in humble beginnings aren’t able to switch out shoes frequently. But for their durability alone, they are worth the $400 mark. An Allen Edmond, shoe less longer than a John lobb side-by-side durability test and you are paying thousands of dollars for that John lobb. Anything beyond Allen Edmond in Price, you are paying for names sake ,looks and high stitch count, but not durability. i’ll give Alden credit for thinking to use elephant skin, I mean, you can squat down in those things countlessly for years and not get permanent creases in the vamp but honestly, they are neck and neck with Allen Edmond ( they use the skin of young bulls ) And should not be beyond..
Yea the change in quality since the company was sold was crazy! Gentleman’s gazette also did a comparison on the differences between the shoes and the era, think they had some from the 70s all the way up to now! Great video man! Loved watching it
I’ve been making and resoling mostly boots. Specifically work and historical reenactment boots. However I’ve resoled 2 pairs and rebuilt a pair of Allen Edmonds for my wife. The soles have an acrylic coat to hide imperfections this is what causes the burnt affect. The top is coated with acrylic fairly thick. For the rebuild, here’s what I did. New heel counter, I however used leather, Trimmed it down and extended it. Leather heel, converted it to a 270 degree hand welt. Fiberglass shank to wood and added ribbon laces. They came out amazing and many of the flaw’s removed. The last I used was a Munson last. I prefer closed channel soles. They extend the period between resoles.
Where did you get a Munson last? How did it change the way the shoe looks? I’ve only ever seen Munsons used to make boots, curious how it changed the shoe’s overall look
It's great to see an honest video about dress shoes. Influencers often try to over-promote products. It's obvious that if you look at the subject of leather shoes, Allen Edmonds is a brand that's far too expensive for what it really is! Unfortunately, too few people are honest enough to say so. I'm French and we also have our fair share of poor brands whose influencers claim they're artisan quality and blah blah blah. You can count on a new subscriber :-)
As entertainment these “calming” sessions are funny but having said that I don’t think you need to apologize for your hard work it’s clear you are highly knowledgeable in the field keep it up and thanks!
People buy Allen Edmonds because they have sizes that fit everyone, not everybody fits into the standard "narrow D width shoe" like you do. That's what makes brands like Allen Edmonds and Alden my shoe of choice. None of these "alternatives" fit people with wide feet.
Absolutely agree. My size 12 4E feet are why I went with AE some years ago, not any sort of perceived "quality." AE and Aldens were pretty much my only viable choices. At least I could get a decent, still not great, fit for a dress shoe at what I thought was a very reasonable price. Every time I was given a possible alternative I would check the website only to discover D was the widest shoe available. I recently decided to just go the full bespoke route with Gaziano & Girling in London. My feet have never had it so good, but of course at a tremendous cost compared to the mass made factory shoes available to practically everyone else.
You can choose a wider last for better shoes. Just measure your feet and send an email to customer support for sizing. Trying to justify AE quality because the shoe you tried elsewhere wasn't the correct last makes no sense.
@@abcxyz7529 None of these companies offer lasts that would be the equivalent of an Allen Edmonds AAAA, AAA, AA, A, B, EE, or EEE. It simply costs too much for these companies to offer sizes that fit people with feet that fall outside the normal "acceptable" sizing. Plus the lasts these brands offer are long, weird looking, and ungainly, making it difficult too walk in them. This is why the "standard American lasts" feel so "blunt" and "unrefined", they're shorter so you can actually wear them and have a functional shoe instead of "art" better suited for a display, wide toebox, space in the vamp for high insteppers, etc.
@@downingbethune8758 Completely agree, I'm considering going down the bespoke route after almost exclusively wearing Alden and Allen Edmonds for some time now. The old wallet would hurt, but at least my feet would be happier. It really is heartbreaking having to look at all of these nice shoes and knowing that not 1 of them will ever fit you due to all of them being so, so narrow. And good luck trying to return your newly purchased yet ill fitting shoes to Portugal or India like he's suggesting.
@@abcxyz7529 Even if the last is "slightly wider", it won't accommodate EE, EEE, or EEEE feet like an Allen Edmonds or Alden last would. The same thing applies for people's who's feet are much narrower than the norm. Classic American brands like Allen Edmonds and Alden work, these weird foreign brands do not.
I’m adding to your video and not criticizing or beginning an argument. AE shoes are made in Wisconsin, USA. Comparing them to shoes made in places like Colombia like Beckett Simonon is fair in terms of quality, but not when you under price into the equation. That’s also true of India, China, etc. AE shoes are almost perpetually on sale. I’m unsure what their average sale price is, but it’s not anywhere close to $400. I have personally found Cobbler Union to be a good compromise for me, personally. I’d really like to try Carmina but unsure what last and size to try. Quality full grain calf leather is so stiff when new that a return policy isn’t much help. It may be three weeks before you realize it’s not quite the right fit.
I bought a pair of Allen Edmonds Brogue for $14 USD, the bottom is pretty much worn out but the upper and the heel stack are both fine, had it resoled for a lil more than $100 and now it looks like it worth more than a brand new pair of AE, one of the best 115 bucks I’ve ever spent
@@gerryaustin8687 Nice, as long as there’s no cracks on the upper and no tear on the part where the upper connects to the welt, there should be nothing a good cobbler and a deep clean+ condition can’t fix, enjoy your new shoes!
For 2 decades I only owned AE shoes. They were and still are an OK starter brand. I agree that the quality has deteriorated due to ownership changes. And no with alternatives brands doing incredible things at various price points the only advantage AE has is that you can go into a store and try them on. Thanks for another amazing video. BTW, TLB is an amazing brand. What Toni produces for what he charges is insane. Carlos Santos is amazing with all their patina work. I am a huge fan of Yearn and Ichigo Ichie. I own 5 pairs of Yearn and 11 of Ichigo.
AE shoes have been made about the same for decades. The SPI has little bearing of durability fwiw and that's from cobblers who've taken apart thousands of them.
@@gnarl12 You are correct. SPI doesn't dictate quality. Even if we agree that the quality of AE shoes is unchanged through the years, the rise of new shoemakers competing in the same $$ range makes AE look bad. TLB is a great comparison brand to AE. And the only "advantage" AE has over the TLB benchgrade line is that AE are made in the USA.
@@mtbokor1969 sizing (widths especially), in store try one and a super easy return policy. Oh and EU sizing isn't a direct correlation. Also, I doubt TLB makes more than 50k pairs a year vs ~400k a year AE makes. At scale, little details add cost. TLB is great BUT size by email/ FedEx sucks for 95% of consumers.
It has nothing to do with private equity. Allen Edmonds is not a luxury brand. People who want top tier shoes go to Carmina, Alden, or John Lobb is they have it like that. Allen Edmonds competes with Thursday or Johnston and Murphy. The oxfords go on sale frequently and for $200 Allen Edmonds makes an acceptable shoe.
AE is a practical stylish American shoe. Let me tell you why I can wear my AE Park Ave. to a out-door wedding on a farm or a fancy hotel in New York City. However, I would never wear my Gravati's to a out door wedding on a farm. Out-door ceremonies and special events is where my AE's shine. In-doors my Gravati's shine.
What’s clear to me is you’ve never been to the factory nor do you understand how offshoring allows for “better” quality because they can just throw the bad ones out. 😊
I have a comment on aesthetics. The clunky potato shape of the AE Park Avenue, along with the heavier stitching on the upper, the fewer stitches per inch on the welt, and the heavy heel make it a more versatile shoe as compared to shoes made on a complicated last with more fine details. "Doc Martens for adults," i've heard them described as. They're not a sexy european thing, or a fussy delicate asian thing. They're a full-size American stomper, that can be worn with a suit, or even with jeans and not look out of place. it doesn't have a flattering silhouette from above (or a few different angles) but it's a heeled leather shoe that serves a variety of sartorial purposes. I appreciate your OCD, Chris.
This was really eye opening. Im a regular boot wearer more so than dress shoes, and $350 with redwing (another heritage us based brand) gets you a well made boot with comfortable stylish lasts that are not far off from what you can get from whites with similar construction methods. Redwing is an example of why ae is over priced when redwing can provide an arguably higher quality product for $100 less
FYI: The rubber runner(2nd layer of rubber on heel) is for better adhesion of the rubber heel and ease of replacement. Rubber doesn’t adhere as well to leather. I wonder how the leather outsole is tanned. From my understanding, one of the best leather outsoles is JR and it is oak tanned. Also some outsoles are treated for water resistance and durability. I use a Saphir product on my leather outsoles which helps with durability. It’s a super refined Vegetable oil and definitely helps with water resistance. Thanks for all the information. I learned a lot. Ps. I love the mountains and you did a great job.
They are worth it if bought at a discount. The problem I see with the company is that it’s lost its charm. Up until the late 2010s it was one of the last classic American shoe brands, specializing in relatively high quality dress shoes. When the new management came in the late 2010s, they began aggressively changing the company “DNA”. At this point, I’m not sure who the target audience is. If you flip though the catalogs they send in the mail several times a year, you’ll notice that all the models are weird, young (often “non-binary” looking) urban folks. Not a single model represents a regular, middle class American professional who goes to work conservatively dressed up (even though the vast majority of Allen Edmonds buyers are exactly that - middle aged, middle class American professionals who prefer a conservative look). The management must be completely out of touch with reality and lives in a bubble. They’ve probably hired a bunch of 30 year old hipsters from NYC and San Francisco to run the marketing and PR departments. Those people clearly don’t understand who the average AE customer is. Btw, I am neither middle aged, nor middle class (in the traditional sense of the word), nor do I live in the suburbs. I am actually a young urban person, an artist, and a classic menswear enthusiast. But I understand who the average AE customer is. The AE management obviously does not.
Thank you for commenting this. I actually had a segment on this exact issue, but cut it out - better for a follow-up video in the future. I feel like the marketing of AE is a very pronounced signal of what is going on internally. It sticks out so sorely that I am genuinely surprised I don't see more comments about it from people on either side of the overall discussion. It does feel like AE is rapidly falling out of touch with its historical brand identity, and not necessarily by intention. I feel very similarly. My theory is that Caleres simply hired a consulting firm full of more tech-oriented late-twenties/early-thirties folks (nothing wrong with this inherently) who aren't particularly in tune with the type of product or consumer base of AE and they slapped on the same copy/paste marketing plan that they use for every other Fast Fashion brand that hires them. It feels less like the marketing was made for the AE brand, and more like AE products were just slapped on H&M/Zara marketing material. There is nothing wrong with a company shifting its brand identity, and can often be a good thing with a changing market if well-executed, but it feels very awkward, misplaced, and non-committed.
@@DressWell.Madarasuhh not exactly. It's called wanting to SURVIVE. In the USA (and more globally) business formal is dying and even business casual is going away. In terms of footwear, plastic coated leather on a sneaker sole has become the new dress shoe standard or just higher end tennis shoes. If AE just kept making 5 varieties of lace up dress shoes and 2-3 loafers they'd be out of business. As it happens they still make a few hundred thousand pairs of dress shoes and boots in Port Washington. Alden makes less than half of what they do, at best. TLB Mallorca probably makes, at best, whatever number Alden does.
I remember when Crockett Jones handgrades were 450 dollars and Edward greens 800. I should have bought a few back then but I thought that was way expensive.
If you’re a D width and a massive snob then good for you and don’t buy AE. I would love an equiv vendor with wide widths that are actually comfortable. Ive tried foreign brands.. TLB, Bridlen, Loake, Blkbrd, nothing comes close… Beckett Simonon is ok but no wide widths and ridiculous 2-3 month wait time. Thursday’s wide widths are among my most uncomfortable shoes. I typically find new AE’s for $150-$300. Never pay retail. May need to do a reorder for AE finish issues which is a bummer but they ship fast.
Yup. I’m 11 EEE and can safely order any AE shoe and really need the width. I mostly buy their seconds and usually, couldn’t tell you why they’re seconds. I wish there were more choices for those of us with caveman feet lol😂
@stylishoversixty9459 Sir, if I may ask just to sate my curiosity: would I be correct in assuming that you watch Sartorial Talks as well? I remember seeing the silhouette of yours in the comments section there too!
There’s a recent video I saw where this guy de-constructed a $900 shell cordovan Higgins Mills, one of AE’s flagship “icons”. It was garbage inside. Fiberboard, cardboard, foam, thin flimsy leather midsole, thin Dainite compared to aftermarket Dainite. The leather AE uses is thin and flimsy. I was a little rough with my own Higgins Mills putting them on and I could hear a tearing noise. Think some of the single-stitching was ripping. In my opinion, AE never recovered from that massive fire that almost bankrupted the company. There “customer service” department are all $15/hour DEI call center muppets who don’t give a damn about the legacy of Allen Edmonds and know jack shit about welted footwear. If anyone has been paying attention to AE, they’ve been slowly transitioning to more and more sneakers every year (which nobody is buying). I can see AE being sold again by Caleres.
This video was brutal, but very well made. I've purchased a few pairs of Strands in my lifetime, but always via eBay. I don't think that I would ever pay retail for Allen Edmonds. For that retail price, you can just go get a pair of shoes from Carmina or TLB Mallorca.
I have a few AE’s but also have some Vass, Cobbler Union, Carmina, one Calvin Klein, and one Hugo Boss (I know lol but they are comfortable). We need manufacturers who understand a certain demographic. Today’s choices are awesome.
Thanks so much for making this video. I have gotten many AE shoes without any knowledge of these flaws because I’ve heard they’re known as great starter shoes. I feel much more informed now. What are your thoughts about their considerably cheaper sneaker lines, which go on sale for around $100? Are they comparable to other options around that price? It’s really nice to try their sizes in store
I am so glad it was helpful! I am not too familiar with their sneakers, though I wouldn't personally have much confidence. I am not super knowledgeable in the sneaker market, though for around that price I'd rather go with Beckett Simonon or Thursday if I had to just do a blind pick. There may be other good options too, though if you try on AE in store and feel good about them, I'd say go for it.
I don't make shoes, but if you ever want a recommendation you can let me know your budget and what you like in a shoe and I can send some suggestions your way! You can always use my affiliate links if you want to support my channel :)
Gotta say. This guy has had it out for Allen Edmonds since he started reviewing shoes. I’ve got TLB and Carminas. My Allen Edmonds are the most comfortable shoes for me. He’s talking about scorching and making outlandish assumptions as to why without a shed of evidence. And delamination of the interior leather? I’ve had shoes for 20 years including AE and have never seen this happen. Even with bubbling on the inside. These shoes aren’t going to fall apart. Hate to say it. But this guy is a bit hacky.
Hi @zack4president. I have removed your comment. Civil - and even uncivil - discussion is acceptable, though my channel is not a vehicle for you to hurl flagrant insults. You are welcome to do so at me, but not other viewers in the audience.
Awesome video and quality presentation. Looking forward to many more videos. Would like to see videos on boots , there is plenty of good content you could make in that area. Also other edc stuff would be a good choice.
23:03 the view here of the lasts was beautifully informative, and a real highlight amidst a very educational video overall. I have an older pair of AE (circa 2017-18) that I’ve worn > 1000 times, and was gifted a new pair last year. They’re the same size, but don’t fit the same. The newer also came with the laces you mentioned, which feel functionally worse and subjectively seem sloppy. I’ll definitely look to some of your content here to teach me to appreciate more of the differences between new and old, as well as for future purchases with other brands.
The CEO of Allen Edmonds once castrated my dog in front of my kids, this brand is horrific and finally someone is bold enough to say it. The CFO challenged me to a duel at noon and when I showed up he hid like a coward. I hate AE with a burning passion akin to the white hot rays of 10,000 suns.
Thank you for every moment you put in this video. Very informative and perhaps the best review I have seen in years. Also the videography quality is next to none.
Probably better quality, but worse value. It's hard to 'grade' AE because they are creating what I consider to be defective products because of the cork. A bit of a moot point regardless because at that point you are trying to draw gradation at the bottom of the barrel - it's all sludge anyway.
Very deep dive and agree with your findings, have purchased four pairs of AE and each one of them was a disappointment. Moving forward I have found that Spanish shoemakers offer the greatest quality and design esthetic for the money. Yanko is one of my personal favorites. TLB is a notch better, an outstanding shoe value and handsome shoe.
Well done on the video. I FINALLY gave up on Allen Edmonds about 2 years ago... And even then, it had was about 5 years since I bought shoes from them..... The turning point came when I bought a pair of dress boots from them online. When I opened the box, I was shocked.... One of the shoes had been worn so much that it actually had the typical creases that come from wearing shoes. Obviously it was a return that AE was re-selling as new and the person putting the package together couldn't care less about what was being sent out. I just had it. The last pair of shoes are nice. I truly like them. But the soles wore out so fast. I think within a month, I was noticing the wear on the soles. But they are a GREAT marketing company. That's why they are still in business. Because they can gain enough new buyers to offset the ones they lose. I was a DEDICATED AE buyer for years. Back in the 1990s, the shoes were NICE. But there was a noticeable drop off in quality somewhere in the late 2000s. They just looked and felt so much cheaper. Worth about half the retail price. And for 1/2 that retail price, there are so many alternatives that are superior to AE... Meermin being the best example as I have 3 pairs... Fantastic style and quality. Have had them for about 2 years and still look new. Their only US store here in Manhattan is absolutely lovely. Guys there just like to chat about shoes. I'll probably buy a pair of TLB Mallorca black oxfords when the time comes largely due to your glowing review of them. I met them at a trunk show last October here in NYC but they didn't have the size in the model I wanted...... For the consumer, the Internet is a superb thing. If someone makes a bad choice, it's largely on them. Not always but mostly.
Man, you're an absolute GEM. Your videos are TOP NOTCH. I really hope you make it big soon because I want more vids for a long time. I'd love a video specifically about the best loafers at different prices
Excellent stuff Chris. I had already seen bad comments by reputable experts on YT about the poor quality of Allen Edmonds shoes but your analysis is very detailed and spot on. I have to say, I never liked them; they look cheap and ugly. The fact that these people have the cheek to ask $400 for a pair of shoddy shoes is unbelievable. Thank you for this great video. Thumbs up!
Hey Chris, happy to see that you are thriving! I watched your Yearn video nearly a year ago and I didn't sub then, but I did now! Great...no EXCEPTIONAL quality content as always! Amazing detail and I love that you explain even the stuff 'we should already know' like what each stitch is like (Blake vs Goodyear). I find that you do a superior job for example explaining and showing exactly how the goodyear welt and blake stitch actually look and work. I've seen that goodyear welt diagram 10 times and FINALLY today just after watching this really feel like I have a good idea exactly how it is constructed. Details like the text suggesting the cost of a good resole is a question I've always had that other channels really glaze over or don't talk about at all. Finding out a good resole costs maybe half the cost of a good $300+ shoe could be surprising to a lot of people (including me!). Gonna go check out some of your other videos like the Beckett Siminon chop (ouch for your wallet!) but at least it seems to have gotten some views... And just like last year, I'm not super into dress shoes...but I just love your videos anyway! LOL
How could I forget! You left one of my first comments! I am so glad I earned your subscribe :). I don't blame you for not doing so, I am proud of that Yearn video but I rewatched it a bit recently and the audio quality on it........oof. I am so glad you said that about GYW construction because I have always felt the same way! It took me forever to wrap my head around how the shoe actually comes together and would love to make the resource that I wish I had long ago that very clearly shows how the construction works in a way that is really understandable. Now that I have some halved GYW shoes, I'll probably make a couple videos dedicated to a full explanation of Blake/GYW construction in the future. So happy to see you again!
I have one pair of AE shoes, which I bought in 2003. Is that before their drop in quality? The soles of mine developed holes after many years of wear, so I had them resoled. But otherwise, they've held up fairly well.
I have a couple pairs from Carmina. Their regular price is $550 ($413 if you get a pair during the semi annual sale). Not cheap, but the quality difference compared to AE is hard to believe.
Interesting. First a quick correction. A shoe last is the foundation of a shoe's design, while the upper is the part of the shoe that covers the foot. All of AEs dress shoes are leather uppers and they use various lasts for different types of shoes and boots. I’ve been wearing AE and Alden since 1996. I prefer AE over Alden as AE shoes come in different widths from very narrow to very wide. There is no other shoe company in that price point that offers their width selection. In addition, AE regularly run sales and you can easily get a new pair for under $300, and I’ve found their return policy very generous. In my 28-year relationship with buying AE shoes I have only had to return 2 pairs and they quickly remedied the issue by sending me a new pair. Their quality has certainly taken a hit due to a couple ownership changes, but still decent. They are also endlessly recraftable and I still wear my Park Avenues purchased in 1996.
TLB Mallorca Artistas are a good deal more than 400 USD, more like 445 Euro. Plus the lasts are so special they really require the purchase of a shoe tree in the same last, so 75 euro on top of the shoe price. Interesting and informative video tho, you clearly know how to take a critical look at a shoe :)
TLB Artisa shoes are 377 euro, I just checked and that is about $400 USD and they ship for free and their shoes are spectactular. There is NO comparison between AE and TLB bc TLB shoes beat AE on everything. And you can use a generic shoe tree for TLB. You dont need to buy the lasted ones.
In reference to the recent makings of Allen Edmonds shoes, I have to agree with every point that you have made, however in their defense, I have to say that the earlier better made iterations of the AE shoe, maybe grossly misunderstood in their design and purpose. AE shoes are perceived to be an entry-level “dress shoe “ and this is what they are not . As we both know, there are many different purposes and tears of Leather shoes. The Design language Of the A E shoe tells me that they are a shoe that is highly durable and is perhaps a workhorse in that they can be worn every day /all day And everywhere And most importantly, a better alternative to a sneaker or trainer as opposed to a standard Typical dress shoe which is to be worn only once maybe twice a week and During said days only part of that day and to be taken off in the evening after work and They can only be worn in specific places like indoors on a carpet or a marble floor . The standards in design in the two types of shoes are to be different, and I don’t think that it is fair to hold the AE shoe to the standard of A dress shoe.. There are other shoes for that purpose so instead Grade them as a “work Horse -dress shoe” (the older better made ones). And in this way, I am sure they will come out on the higher end of their kind. Thank you.
Leatherboard in the heel stack doesn't matter because the outsole they use wears out in about 10 miles. Cheap! When you take them to a cobbler to resole, then you can get what you want. (I'm not excusing Allen Edmonds' cheap quality.) That's disappointing seeing the cork separate from the outsole. Do other makers not have this problem? That plastic heel counter: I'm wearing a pair of Strands right now that are about 8 years old, and the leather lining has worn down to the plastic, and they are now uncomfortable. The toe cap on these shoes are non-existant. However, they still look fantastic. Thanks for pointing out the upper leather flaws. I think most of my AEs have that going on.
I'll push back a little bit on the looks. Most men wear horrible plastic shoes. Compared to most, AE shoes really stand out as a handsome shoe in day to day life. There is a certain ruggedness to them compared to European dress shoes that fit well with the American casual aesthetic.
while watching the video I kept noticing how amazing the bridlen shoes looked, I'll definitely look into them, thank you for letting me know about them!
I have a pair of BLKBRD Dixon boots and absolutely love them and saw that you featured a Bridlen and BLKBRD shoes... I am really, really warming up to Indian boot/shoemakers.
They are overpriced when compared to any decent European shoe brand. Can't compare with Carlos Santos quality and finish not even in the same league. Last time I went to an Allen Edmonds store I was wearing some Carlos Santos Monks that I bough for around $200 from Herring, the Allen Edmonds employees were all over them 😅 Grantstone has a captoe that is several miles better than any Allen Edmonds for $100 less, basically an Alden when it comes to quality and construction. Allen Edmonds are good beater shoes though.
Allen Edmonds is a okay value if you can buy them for less than $200 but even then the quality is fine but the styles are a bit outdated and would rather apply that money towards a more expensive Carmina or something like that.
Thanks so much for your professionally presented video. Had my last horrific experience with AE in 2019. At that time i could only identify the external flaws on my purchases. Was'nt aware of the numerous internal shortcomings in build quality as i suspect most long time AE customers like me were not. Would love to continue to buy American shoes but we've lost so many decent manufactures over last several decades and Alden has limited styles but may be my next lover in shoe romance.
Hey Chris, I live in the Lakewood, CO area, so it is pretty awesome to find a reviewer here in Colorado! Thanks for this review. I bought a pair of Allen Edmonds about a year ago, and I do feel like they are not even NEAR the quality of my Meermins, which I just bought a 2nd pair of recently and after a few months am about to receive. I could never put my finger on why, but your detailed video is pretty awesome. Thank you!
I have one pair but not sure when they were made. I likely will look for another company. It won't be stupid Beckett and Simonon who buys their shoes outside of USA (NOT American made) but refuse to ship to Canada. The reasons they give is BS if they would just use USPS. I hope to find maybe an out of Canada company that still makes shoes the old way. Made in Canada or USA is no longer a guarantee of quality as such companies generally market their name rather than quality. If Canadian viewers can recommend $500 and less companies, please do so.
Not defending the decline in quality, but I buy mainly AEs and for $100 or less, barely used via eBay. For that price, I’m comfortable with the compromise and feel they are a much better buy than cemented, mainstream brands. At retail pricing, I’d be considering many other brands. Thanks for the informative content.
I also have Allen Edmonds Park Avenue & Fifth Avenue shoes, and a few years ago, I decided to move over to their brand after throwing away a few pairs of shoes made by Johnston and Murphy. I have been happy with Allen Edmonds's shoes since moving to them. Their shoes are American-made and of high quality due to the Goodyear welt, as most shoes today are cemented and not quality. I currently have six pairs of their dress shoes and boots.
Have 10-12 pairs of AEs, lost count over the decades but had no need to replace any in my shoe wardrobe since early 2000s. As one on their mailing list, i kept up with new styles in both casual and dress varieties. Was check8ng out the website 8n Nov 2019 and noticed they were closing out Park Avenue in navy. Had several PAs and Ffith Ave in various colors but not navy. Having several suits in various shades of blue, i ordered a pair. Know retail was $395 and believe clearance price was $250-275. First order arrived with flaws in leather as well as stitching flaws in welt. Ordered 2nd pair, arrived flawed also...uneven navy dyeing . Not happy but really wanted the navy PAs, especially at the clearance price so i ordered another pair. Was initially satisfied when 3rd navy pair arrived as i didnt spot any obvious flaws, at least i thought that was the case. After examining i sat this pair on table in front of me and then noticed that one of the shoes did sit flat on the table from front to back but "rocked" when i attempted to hold the heel flat against the flat surface, the toe was lifted off of the table, causing the shoe to "rock" back and forth. The mate to this "rocker" was just fine, though, sitting flat on the table as it should. Calculating the math, one of 6 shoes (3pair) was only one without flaws or 16.6% of what were supposed to be first quality shoes. I was thoroughly disgusted as i had also ordered a navy AE belt to match at regular retail price. Had never experienced such sloppy workmanship in AE shoes before, other than very minor imperfections that i knew shoe polish would cover up. After a couple months i thought back to my previous AE purchases and realized i hadnt bought any new shoes since early 2000s and prior to 2006 private equity takeover. I cant blame that company, nor the Brentwood group that had ownership until Caleres bought AE in 2016. I do however blame Caleres for cutting corners on everything from craftsmanship, materials, customer service and even the attrative and informative catalogs that used to be mailed to those of us on the mailing lists. Sadly Caleres doesn't know or care who their main target customer is. Doubt it's the 20s, 30s age group that the ugly white soled sneakers seem to target. For casual shoes I'll always favor drivers and venetians and Gold Cup Sperrys over hideous white rubber sole sneakers in dress shoe styles. Only AEs I'll purchase in the future would be lightly used or new on ebay or some other internet site. Bottom line...greedy corporations don't care about loyal customers who have bought products from them for decades. I have several pair of USA made JMs from the 90s and before that i will pull out of storage boxes and wear before spending another dime with AE. Feel as if I'm being conned by AE now to the tune of $425 each time. Sad for this divorce but i didnt cheat on you but Caleres you will cheat me if i was foolish enough to ever trust you again. Fortunstely I've got enough shoes to last past my lifetime if i choose. Bye bye AE.
@@DressWell.MadarasAR has been owned by a bank or similar financial interests for decades. Their shoes have been made in much the same way (at least their core lineup) since at least the 1970s. Leather globally has been dropping in quality and AE actually gets their calfskin from a European tannery and used to get it from the same one that supplied Hermes (they then bought it and AE lost access). Most people aren't going to play size by email with EU brands.
I do have about 6 pairs of AE's and I started buying them before I knew as much about shoes as I do now. I agree with most of your assessment. I started branching out and now added some Rancourt and Company (camp mocs), and Grant Stone (boots and loafers), and even a pair of Thursday Boots Sneaker (really incredible value and so comfortable), and I have noticed a difference in quality especially with the Grant Stone. I noticed it most with the finishing along the opening, where the GS are way better finished. I also have been paying attention to the heel blocks and how AE doesn't use all leather construction. I have McAllisters, Strandmoks, Hamilton boots and another cap toe boot, the "Frost". Overall probably good enough, and most were purchased on sale, but not all. Sold some Strands recently on eBay. Great video sir, really enjoying your content.
My only pair of Allen Edmonds Dress shoes that I regularly wear are some McNeil Cordovan Gunboats. I bought them slightly used and unbroken in on ebay for $100 because the lady didn’t know that they were $750 Cordovan Horsehide shoes. They are built like tanks. Over a year of regular wear they have only broken in a little bit and show no signs of wear. I don’t do any maintenance on them at all other than dusting and wiped down. I had a cheaper pair of derby’s and they were OK but some parts of the trim weren’t made correctly.
Great video. Just subscribed and look forward to your future videos as well as going back through your catalog. I would just add that given this last round of inflation anything less $500 for a pair dress shoes should be considered inexpensive, imho, and you tend to get what you pay for when it comes to shoes, with some exceptions of course. Also, I have exceptionally wide feet, which is why as a younger man I went with AE due to its wide range of sizes (yes, pun intended). For this reason, your offered alternatives don't work for me. I never thought AE made a particularly high quality shoe to begin with and it seems to have only gotten worse. Now that I'm older and can afford it, I'm going with bespoke shoes for my dress shoes and loafers. Obviously way more expensive but no issue as to quality and my feet have never had it so good.
Chris mate your review is topnotch, AE shoes is not right now what was before a decade..i admire your depth knowledge of shoes. I subbed, hope you all the best..
AE is a highly overrated brand, and they are not even well regarded. Not worth more than $150 and I still wouldn't recommend tham at that price due to the cheap looking and boring lasts. Avoid. p.s. thanks for a great video!
I hate when people say AE is great value when the lasting is so unattractive, the looks are the whole point of a dress shoe. Many heritage British brands are guilty of these hideous lasts too. Companies need to look to Antonio Meccariello and Yeossal for how lasts should be designed in the modern age. Nobody wants a leather blob on their feet, no matter how well constructed the blob is.
@@taiteyard3567 The lasts are the best part. European lasts look weird, angular, dainty, pointy and just flat out uncanny to me. I much prefer the classic American shoe shape thank you very much!
@@taiteyard3567 Yes, many British brands are stuck with cheap and boring lasts. That rules them out for me no matter how well constructed they might be.
@@GuyFierisShirt European lasting is different maker to maker and country to country. If you prefer American lasts, you probably haven’t spent much time looking at high end shoes. I will agree that many makers like Corthay, G&G, and Enzo Bonafe can produce uniquely bizarre and hideous lasts, but amidst that bad ones you will eventually emerge with an appreciation for more angular and shapely lasting. Take a look at lasts from Asian makers like Oct tenth, Yohei Fukuda, and the Italian Antonio Meccariello, they elevate the dress shoe to something else entirely. Most transcendentally great things in this life need to be earned through time spent in ponderance, and appreciation for good art, like high end footwear, is no exception.
AE sucks today. The last is great for a boot, not for a shoe. Ae beyond lacks compared to my Crockett and Jones. Heck, my meermin are grades above ae quality.
You absolutely cannot a similar shoe for $150. As a comparison, look at Thursday. You’ll find they cut more corners than AE and are $190. The brands you brought up also aren’t $150. The big deal with AE is that many are American made. You don’t even place any value in that.
AE no longer exclusively manufactures in the US. I would love to support "made in the US" if the quality was similar to made elsewhere. Even at $250 on sale, I will no longer purchase AE shoes. Besides the declination of quality, they are not stylish. The lasts have no shape. It looks like you are wearing a brick on your foot.
Your critique of Allen Edmonds shoes is overly dramatic and nitpicky, turning minor issues into major complaints. Let's put things in perspective: Allen Edmonds offers decent shoes, especially when on sale, and their unique sizing options cater to a variety of foot widths. Unlike the standard narrow D width that some people prefer, brands like Allen Edmonds and Alden provide alternatives for those with wider feet, making them top choices. The fact that Allen Edmonds shoes are US-made is significant. The concept of US-made products is diminishing, and it's vital to support it. US workers are not as cheap as foreign. Your argument about cost versus quality is questionable. For me, being able to visit a store and experience the product firsthand is invaluable. Allen Edmonds shoes are crafted in Port Washington, Wisconsin, by dedicated employees who contribute to the local economy. Buying US-made products like Allen Edmonds is important, and you can't find a similar quality shoe for $150. Even brands like Thursday, which cut more corners than AE, cost $190. The alternatives you mentioned aren't
I wear a 49 EU, 14 EE/15 size shoe. Only AE makes a shoe that fits. This video’s critiques are valid for certain customers. As for me, most places don’t make shoes big enough that aren’t fire or mountaineering boots for me to care.
Thanks. Shoes are a very important part of a gentleman's wardrobe and need to be high end. Carmina and TLB are high quality, stylish, customizable shoes and are a great value. I have seen American icon brands, one after another going down the drain. Pity.🤔
I wanted to dislike this video, I truly did, but I learned some things so my opinions must reflect new info...and that is my barometer for quality. Take your "like," albeit begrudgingly 😞
Thank you, I have a pair OF AE Carlyles & the stitching on the soles air becoming frayed after about four wears. Cost per wear is very important to me. S
Nice to discover your channel, and is great to see some with all these details. By the way, even the cheaper line of herring shoes of 100 pounds have less construction issues than this AE
![АЛАУДИНОВ у Скабеевой: эти их ВСУ нас НЕ ДОГОНЯТ 😁 [Пародия]](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/an0anqU4WGQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Leave a comment! :)
What is your opinion of British brands like Barker and Loake?
I precisely enjoy your reviews because of their expressive and genuinely honest nature. Not only that, they are very detailed and easy to consume. If i wasnt a student i would immediately support you with money. You‘re the only person I consider a genuine reviewer who goes into details
Your kind comments and support itself means so much to me! Thank you so much!
I am not honestly familiar enough with them to have much of an opinion.
I was unaware that upon clicking on this video that This video would actually alter my life dramatically. In a way This video was like watching a good movie as it has left me thinking about it the entire day but beyond the thoughts, you have forced me to grow past Allen Edmonds now and I will no longer look at them the same as I once did. Please keep on doing what you’re doing. If you are not already I hope that you become a bigger shoe judge than Kirby Allison you’ve already proven that you have much more knowledge.
Once the founder of the corporations sell the company to private equity company, the quality of the products starts to decrease overtime for the worse.
The founders of AE haven’t run the company since the 1950s.
Lol AE went to PE 30 years ago.
Worst customer service in the industry
Saying some things that I guess are obvious:
There's a very large part of the consumer base for mens dress shoes which are you white collar workers working car-to-carpet. These people are busy and need the shoes to fulfill uniform standards, not because they care about wearing dress shoes. Also, their use case doesn't really require durability - these people are wearing their shoes for large parts of the day, but not necessarily doing a lot of walking, and certainly not on abrasive surfaces.
Parallel point is that the cost of any product is not just the direct purchase price but also the cost of time and mental energy invested. If you're a white-collar worker optimizing over a very limited volume of uncommitted time each week, and you don't derive pleasure from investing time and energy into researching shoes, then doing so is very expensive. And, you have the disposable income to buy that time and energy back from the market by purchasing from a low-effort brand.
AE is built for that market. They're a well-known brand and they have physical locations and quick shipping, which makes it easy and convenient to buy shoes and minimizes the time/energy costs. They are expensive because white collar workers typically have the disposable income and are used to the idea that they need to spend a good deal of money to present themselves as 'serious' people in the workplace. They can also guarantee most people a size that fits reasonably OK. People who are allocating low levels of mental energy to buying shoes will usually buy them last minute and don't have the patience for breaking in stiffer leather uppers, and AE provides that quick turnaround and softer leather.
There's currently a compositional evolution taking place within the market for dress shoes - more people buying them as a hobby because of exposure to YT content etc., fewer people buying them for work as the WFH revolution has relaxed dress codes. So there's likely to be some deterioration of AE's customer base over time.
Your point is likely valid in some cases, but not in large cities where men walk miles from their subway stops to their offices.
on point!
I would add that the trend toward “hybrid” shoes, as unfortunate as it is, will prob make or break AE.
Ae isn't priced for what you are mentioning. Really Beck and Sim is priced there.
@@youtubetv4856 many offices switched to allow dress sneakers. A friend of mine works in NYC at an advertising firm that just switched to allow dress sneakers. A few others have done the same from what I understand. Suit and tie club is almost dead. I have been wearing them for years now instead of wearing shoes to formal functions. Regularly I am bare foot or in work boots AE dress sneakers are actually quite durable but I am saddened by the drop in quality of their shoes in the last 10 years. I do disagree with the video about the toe. I do know anyone who wants a stiff toe. I know a lot of people who wear a suit and tie everyday and the stiff toe is a killer on the feet.
@@jlozano2014 Beck and Sim isn't expensive enough.
These are city workers who get bonuses and buy expensive watches with them, or people who work with and around such people.
Also Beck and Sim is a totally different proposition, as you have to order months ahead of receipt of product, there are no stores you can walk into and walk out with a shoe, etc. Altogether, completely different product.
I appreciate the honesty and thoroughness of your video. For me, I have wide square shaped feet. They are the only brand at their price point which makes a super wide range of sizes. They are the analogy of New Balance in the athletic shoe world. I have suffered through a range of well made, handsome and expensive brands that just induce pain.
same :(
appreciate the honest reviews. I am obsessed with shoe videos but its quite rare for any of my shoe video guys to say anything negative about a shoe company especially Allen Edmonds, the cornerstone of American Goodyear welted shoes. Appreciate your videos just make more.
Alden is better
@@ruperttmls7985 I don’t think by much my friend. If anything, they do use a higher quality grain for the uppers. In fact, I would put them on the top as far as that’s concerned but their lasts Aren’t all that
Allen got stuck in time, so now is blown out of water even by something like 250usd bridlen shoes. 400 for such a shoe is daylight robbery. In todays age, that shoe is really more like 150usd shoe. If i was to spend 400 ish, i would go with tlb mallorca or carlos santos handgrade.
edit: i commented before watching anything. Guy himself said its 200 shoes, and still he would be mad :) Honestly, its a really bad shoe for the price.
edit2: oh snap, he actually said its 150 dollar shoe at the end of the video :)
@@don_kandon6006 most, and this was not specifically aimed at you, but most lack diversity in mindset when it comes to shoes. Allen Edmond is a shoe that will last you a lifetime. not only that, but you can wear them every single day repetitively and all day long. They are a type of dress shoe that is specifically designed for that and this is the only reason why they are considered entry-level level, due to the fact that most in humble beginnings aren’t able to switch out shoes frequently. But for their durability alone, they are worth the $400 mark. An Allen Edmond, shoe less longer than a John lobb side-by-side durability test and you are paying thousands of dollars for that John lobb. Anything beyond Allen Edmond in Price, you are paying for names sake ,looks and high stitch count, but not durability. i’ll give Alden credit for thinking to use elephant skin, I mean, you can squat down in those things countlessly for years and not get permanent creases in the vamp but honestly, they are neck and neck with Allen Edmond ( they use the skin of young bulls ) And should not be beyond..
Yea the change in quality since the company was sold was crazy! Gentleman’s gazette also did a comparison on the differences between the shoes and the era, think they had some from the 70s all the way up to now!
Great video man! Loved watching it
I’ve been making and resoling mostly boots. Specifically work and historical reenactment boots. However I’ve resoled 2 pairs and rebuilt a pair of Allen Edmonds for my wife. The soles have an acrylic coat to hide imperfections this is what causes the burnt affect. The top is coated with acrylic fairly thick.
For the rebuild, here’s what I did.
New heel counter, I however used leather, Trimmed it down and extended it. Leather heel, converted it to a 270 degree hand welt. Fiberglass shank to wood and added ribbon laces. They came out amazing and many of the flaw’s removed. The last I used was a Munson last. I prefer closed channel soles. They extend the period between resoles.
Thank you for sharing! Especially about the insole. That's so interesting, I've never heard of that being done to an insole.
Where did you get a Munson last? How did it change the way the shoe looks? I’ve only ever seen Munsons used to make boots, curious how it changed the shoe’s overall look
If the upper is acrylic coated it's bookbinder leather/corrected grain and AE doesn't use that anymore.
@@DressWell.MadarasAE used to paint/lacquer their insoles. They used to be jet black. Now they're natural colored/light brown.
@@fritbyferd2711 eBay actually. It’s a style of last
It's great to see an honest video about dress shoes. Influencers often try to over-promote products. It's obvious that if you look at the subject of leather shoes, Allen Edmonds is a brand that's far too expensive for what it really is! Unfortunately, too few people are honest enough to say so.
I'm French and we also have our fair share of poor brands whose influencers claim they're artisan quality and blah blah blah.
You can count on a new subscriber :-)
As entertainment these “calming” sessions are funny but having said that I don’t think you need to apologize for your hard work it’s clear you are highly knowledgeable in the field keep it up and thanks!
People buy Allen Edmonds because they have sizes that fit everyone, not everybody fits into the standard "narrow D width shoe" like you do. That's what makes brands like Allen Edmonds and Alden my shoe of choice. None of these "alternatives" fit people with wide feet.
Absolutely agree. My size 12 4E feet are why I went with AE some years ago, not any sort of perceived "quality." AE and Aldens were pretty much my only viable choices. At least I could get a decent, still not great, fit for a dress shoe at what I thought was a very reasonable price. Every time I was given a possible alternative I would check the website only to discover D was the widest shoe available. I recently decided to just go the full bespoke route with Gaziano & Girling in London. My feet have never had it so good, but of course at a tremendous cost compared to the mass made factory shoes available to practically everyone else.
You can choose a wider last for better shoes. Just measure your feet and send an email to customer support for sizing. Trying to justify AE quality because the shoe you tried elsewhere wasn't the correct last makes no sense.
@@abcxyz7529 None of these companies offer lasts that would be the equivalent of an Allen Edmonds AAAA, AAA, AA, A, B, EE, or EEE. It simply costs too much for these companies to offer sizes that fit people with feet that fall outside the normal "acceptable" sizing. Plus the lasts these brands offer are long, weird looking, and ungainly, making it difficult too walk in them. This is why the "standard American lasts" feel so "blunt" and "unrefined", they're shorter so you can actually wear them and have a functional shoe instead of "art" better suited for a display, wide toebox, space in the vamp for high insteppers, etc.
@@downingbethune8758 Completely agree, I'm considering going down the bespoke route after almost exclusively wearing Alden and Allen Edmonds for some time now. The old wallet would hurt, but at least my feet would be happier. It really is heartbreaking having to look at all of these nice shoes and knowing that not 1 of them will ever fit you due to all of them being so, so narrow. And good luck trying to return your newly purchased yet ill fitting shoes to Portugal or India like he's suggesting.
@@abcxyz7529 Even if the last is "slightly wider", it won't accommodate EE, EEE, or EEEE feet like an Allen Edmonds or Alden last would. The same thing applies for people's who's feet are much narrower than the norm. Classic American brands like Allen Edmonds and Alden work, these weird foreign brands do not.
Private equity is the reason almost everything has declined in quality over the last 5-10 years. Companies are focusing solely on profits.
Two things keep me coming back to Allen Edmonds: my hobbit feet that need extra wide fits and their constant sales.
I’m adding to your video and not criticizing or beginning an argument.
AE shoes are made in Wisconsin, USA. Comparing them to shoes made in places like Colombia like Beckett Simonon is fair in terms of quality, but not when you under price into the equation. That’s also true of India, China, etc.
AE shoes are almost perpetually on sale. I’m unsure what their average sale price is, but it’s not anywhere close to $400.
I have personally found Cobbler Union to be a good compromise for me, personally. I’d really like to try Carmina but unsure what last and size to try. Quality full grain calf leather is so stiff when new that a return policy isn’t much help. It may be three weeks before you realize it’s not quite the right fit.
Carmina reccomends you try their RAIN last for a first purchase.
I bought a pair of Allen Edmonds Brogue for $14 USD, the bottom is pretty much worn out but the upper and the heel stack are both fine, had it resoled for a lil more than $100 and now it looks like it worth more than a brand new pair of AE, one of the best 115 bucks I’ve ever spent
Im doing the same, buying a used pair from ebay and going to have them resoled.
@@gerryaustin8687 Nice, as long as there’s no cracks on the upper and no tear on the part where the upper connects to the welt, there should be nothing a good cobbler and a deep clean+ condition can’t fix, enjoy your new shoes!
@@Joseph_yy Thanks!
For 2 decades I only owned AE shoes. They were and still are an OK starter brand. I agree that the quality has deteriorated due to ownership changes. And no with alternatives brands doing incredible things at various price points the only advantage AE has is that you can go into a store and try them on. Thanks for another amazing video. BTW, TLB is an amazing brand. What Toni produces for what he charges is insane. Carlos Santos is amazing with all their patina work. I am a huge fan of Yearn and Ichigo Ichie. I own 5 pairs of Yearn and 11 of Ichigo.
AE shoes have been made about the same for decades. The SPI has little bearing of durability fwiw and that's from cobblers who've taken apart thousands of them.
@@gnarl12 You are correct. SPI doesn't dictate quality. Even if we agree that the quality of AE shoes is unchanged through the years, the rise of new shoemakers competing in the same $$ range makes AE look bad. TLB is a great comparison brand to AE. And the only "advantage" AE has over the TLB benchgrade line is that AE are made in the USA.
@@mtbokor1969 sizing (widths especially), in store try one and a super easy return policy. Oh and EU sizing isn't a direct correlation. Also, I doubt TLB makes more than 50k pairs a year vs ~400k a year AE makes. At scale, little details add cost. TLB is great BUT size by email/ FedEx sucks for 95% of consumers.
It has nothing to do with private equity. Allen Edmonds is not a luxury brand. People who want top tier shoes go to Carmina, Alden, or John Lobb is they have it like that. Allen Edmonds competes with Thursday or Johnston and Murphy. The oxfords go on sale frequently and for $200 Allen Edmonds makes an acceptable shoe.
AE is a practical stylish American shoe. Let me tell you why I can wear my AE Park Ave. to a out-door wedding on a farm or a fancy hotel in New York City. However, I would never wear my Gravati's to a out door wedding on a farm. Out-door ceremonies and special events is where my AE's shine. In-doors my Gravati's shine.
What’s clear to me is you’ve never been to the factory nor do you understand how offshoring allows for “better” quality because they can just throw the bad ones out. 😊
I have a comment on aesthetics. The clunky potato shape of the AE Park Avenue, along with the heavier stitching on the upper, the fewer stitches per inch on the welt, and the heavy heel make it a more versatile shoe as compared to shoes made on a complicated last with more fine details. "Doc Martens for adults," i've heard them described as. They're not a sexy european thing, or a fussy delicate asian thing. They're a full-size American stomper, that can be worn with a suit, or even with jeans and not look out of place. it doesn't have a flattering silhouette from above (or a few different angles) but it's a heeled leather shoe that serves a variety of sartorial purposes. I appreciate your OCD, Chris.
OH yeah, i agree 100% on the weak toe cap. The toe caps on my AEs get creased about a half inch away from where the cap ends.
I stopped buying Allen Edmonds 3 years ago after many years of loyalty. Returning 2 pairs for literally falling apart was enough for me.
This was really eye opening.
Im a regular boot wearer more so than dress shoes, and $350 with redwing (another heritage us based brand) gets you a well made boot with comfortable stylish lasts that are not far off from what you can get from whites with similar construction methods.
Redwing is an example of why ae is over priced when redwing can provide an arguably higher quality product for $100 less
FYI: The rubber runner(2nd layer of rubber on heel) is for better adhesion of the rubber heel and ease of replacement. Rubber doesn’t adhere as well to leather. I wonder how the leather outsole is tanned. From my understanding, one of the best leather outsoles is JR and it is oak tanned. Also some outsoles are treated for water resistance and durability. I use a Saphir product on my leather outsoles which helps with durability. It’s a super refined Vegetable oil and definitely helps with water resistance. Thanks for all the information. I learned a lot. Ps. I love the mountains and you did a great job.
The insole could be a fake leather. Rose Anvil does a burn test on leather insoles for this purpose.
I didn't even think of that! That's a good idea, I might test that out in a future video.
They are worth it if bought at a discount. The problem I see with the company is that it’s lost its charm. Up until the late 2010s it was one of the last classic American shoe brands, specializing in relatively high quality dress shoes. When the new management came in the late 2010s, they began aggressively changing the company “DNA”. At this point, I’m not sure who the target audience is. If you flip though the catalogs they send in the mail several times a year, you’ll notice that all the models are weird, young (often “non-binary” looking) urban folks. Not a single model represents a regular, middle class American professional who goes to work conservatively dressed up (even though the vast majority of Allen Edmonds buyers are exactly that - middle aged, middle class American professionals who prefer a conservative look). The management must be completely out of touch with reality and lives in a bubble. They’ve probably hired a bunch of 30 year old hipsters from NYC and San Francisco to run the marketing and PR departments. Those people clearly don’t understand who the average AE customer is.
Btw, I am neither middle aged, nor middle class (in the traditional sense of the word), nor do I live in the suburbs. I am actually a young urban person, an artist, and a classic menswear enthusiast. But I understand who the average AE customer is. The AE management obviously does not.
Thank you for commenting this. I actually had a segment on this exact issue, but cut it out - better for a follow-up video in the future. I feel like the marketing of AE is a very pronounced signal of what is going on internally. It sticks out so sorely that I am genuinely surprised I don't see more comments about it from people on either side of the overall discussion. It does feel like AE is rapidly falling out of touch with its historical brand identity, and not necessarily by intention.
I feel very similarly. My theory is that Caleres simply hired a consulting firm full of more tech-oriented late-twenties/early-thirties folks (nothing wrong with this inherently) who aren't particularly in tune with the type of product or consumer base of AE and they slapped on the same copy/paste marketing plan that they use for every other Fast Fashion brand that hires them. It feels less like the marketing was made for the AE brand, and more like AE products were just slapped on H&M/Zara marketing material.
There is nothing wrong with a company shifting its brand identity, and can often be a good thing with a changing market if well-executed, but it feels very awkward, misplaced, and non-committed.
@@DressWell.Madarasuhh not exactly. It's called wanting to SURVIVE. In the USA (and more globally) business formal is dying and even business casual is going away. In terms of footwear, plastic coated leather on a sneaker sole has become the new dress shoe standard or just higher end tennis shoes. If AE just kept making 5 varieties of lace up dress shoes and 2-3 loafers they'd be out of business.
As it happens they still make a few hundred thousand pairs of dress shoes and boots in Port Washington. Alden makes less than half of what they do, at best. TLB Mallorca probably makes, at best, whatever number Alden does.
I remember when Crockett Jones handgrades were 450 dollars and Edward greens 800. I should have bought a few back then but I thought that was way expensive.
If you’re a D width and a massive snob then good for you and don’t buy AE. I would love an equiv vendor with wide widths that are actually comfortable. Ive tried foreign brands.. TLB, Bridlen, Loake, Blkbrd, nothing comes close… Beckett Simonon is ok but no wide widths and ridiculous 2-3 month wait time. Thursday’s wide widths are among my most uncomfortable shoes. I typically find new AE’s for $150-$300. Never pay retail. May need to do a reorder for AE finish issues which is a bummer but they ship fast.
Yup. I’m 11 EEE and can safely order any AE shoe and really need the width. I mostly buy their seconds and usually, couldn’t tell you why they’re seconds. I wish there were more choices for those of us with caveman feet lol😂
Interesting how the standard of quality has gone down but the cost of the product has gone up...oh well simply par for the course of capitalism!
@stylishoversixty9459 Sir, if I may ask just to sate my curiosity: would I be correct in assuming that you watch Sartorial Talks as well? I remember seeing the silhouette of yours in the comments section there too!
What is your preferred alternative?
He’s a paid affiliate of a couple of the brands he compares to AE. It’s a disguised ad.
imgur.com/twYCMga
There’s a recent video I saw where this guy de-constructed a $900 shell cordovan Higgins Mills, one of AE’s flagship “icons”. It was garbage inside. Fiberboard, cardboard, foam, thin flimsy leather midsole, thin Dainite compared to aftermarket Dainite.
The leather AE uses is thin and flimsy. I was a little rough with my own Higgins Mills putting them on and I could hear a tearing noise. Think some of the single-stitching was ripping.
In my opinion, AE never recovered from that massive fire that almost bankrupted the company. There “customer service” department are all $15/hour DEI call center muppets who don’t give a damn about the legacy of Allen Edmonds and know jack shit about welted footwear.
If anyone has been paying attention to AE, they’ve been slowly transitioning to more and more sneakers every year (which nobody is buying). I can see AE being sold again by Caleres.
I've never worn one. Handmade shoes with the help of professionals cost me about $550. Small shoemaker in Austria. I love them.
This video was brutal, but very well made. I've purchased a few pairs of Strands in my lifetime, but always via eBay.
I don't think that I would ever pay retail for Allen Edmonds. For that retail price, you can just go get a pair of shoes from Carmina or TLB Mallorca.
I have a few AE’s but also have some Vass, Cobbler Union, Carmina, one Calvin Klein, and one Hugo Boss (I know lol but they are comfortable). We need manufacturers who understand a certain demographic. Today’s choices are awesome.
Oh and own several pairs from a friend of mine in Soho. JFitzpatrick. 11 pairs and counting. Excellent shoe!
Dare you to do Alden next :) One of us! One of us!
the higher the price the more brutal the review should be. good on you
Thanks so much for making this video. I have gotten many AE shoes without any knowledge of these flaws because I’ve heard they’re known as great starter shoes. I feel much more informed now. What are your thoughts about their considerably cheaper sneaker lines, which go on sale for around $100? Are they comparable to other options around that price? It’s really nice to try their sizes in store
I am so glad it was helpful! I am not too familiar with their sneakers, though I wouldn't personally have much confidence. I am not super knowledgeable in the sneaker market, though for around that price I'd rather go with Beckett Simonon or Thursday if I had to just do a blind pick. There may be other good options too, though if you try on AE in store and feel good about them, I'd say go for it.
@@DressWell.Madaras That makes sense, thanks for offering your thoughts! Your videos are super informative and entertaining, looking forward to more!
I would like to buy a shoe made by you, where I can buy it?
I don't make shoes, but if you ever want a recommendation you can let me know your budget and what you like in a shoe and I can send some suggestions your way!
You can always use my affiliate links if you want to support my channel :)
I inherited my dad’s AE Fifth Ave shoes he got in 2004. Solid quality. I would not buy AE now though.
Gotta say. This guy has had it out for Allen Edmonds since he started reviewing shoes. I’ve got TLB and Carminas. My Allen Edmonds are the most comfortable shoes for me. He’s talking about scorching and making outlandish assumptions as to why without a shed of evidence. And delamination of the interior leather? I’ve had shoes for 20 years including AE and have never seen this happen. Even with bubbling on the inside. These shoes aren’t going to fall apart. Hate to say it. But this guy is a bit hacky.
My most comfortable pair of shoes are my sandals. They are also $20, not $425.
They're garbage, bro.
Hi @zack4president. I have removed your comment. Civil - and even uncivil - discussion is acceptable, though my channel is not a vehicle for you to hurl flagrant insults. You are welcome to do so at me, but not other viewers in the audience.
@@DressWell.Madaras Thank you
Allen Edmonds are this. “Good enough” for almost everyone. However, they’re upping the prices on these things over time and that’s the biggest issue.
would you consider reviewing some good loafers options?
Sure! I'd love to make a video on loafers. It may be a little bit far out, but I'll add it to the list!
Awesome video and quality presentation. Looking forward to many more videos. Would like to see videos on boots , there is plenty of good content you could make in that area. Also other edc stuff would be a good choice.
Thank you sir! Chelsea boots coming next video!
@@DressWell.Madarasooohh!! I love Chelseas and happen to be in the market for some!! Let’s go
@@jstnnnnn My friend! Depending on your budget, my next video releasing in just a few hours here I think might literally be made just for you!
23:03 the view here of the lasts was beautifully informative, and a real highlight amidst a very educational video overall.
I have an older pair of AE (circa 2017-18) that I’ve worn > 1000 times, and was gifted a new pair last year. They’re the same size, but don’t fit the same. The newer also came with the laces you mentioned, which feel functionally worse and subjectively seem sloppy. I’ll definitely look to some of your content here to teach me to appreciate more of the differences between new and old, as well as for future purchases with other brands.
The CEO of Allen Edmonds once castrated my dog in front of my kids, this brand is horrific and finally someone is bold enough to say it. The CFO challenged me to a duel at noon and when I showed up he hid like a coward. I hate AE with a burning passion akin to the white hot rays of 10,000 suns.
wow!
Thank you for every moment you put in this video. Very informative and perhaps the best review I have seen in years. Also the videography quality is next to none.
Is AE still better than lowly Florsheim or Stacy Adams?
Probably better quality, but worse value. It's hard to 'grade' AE because they are creating what I consider to be defective products because of the cork. A bit of a moot point regardless because at that point you are trying to draw gradation at the bottom of the barrel - it's all sludge anyway.
I can’t listen to this background music without thinking “the why files”
Hah! I think Ethan Chlebowski!
The inevitable fate of all companies, regardless of product.
I love how detailed you get into these shoes.
Very deep dive and agree with your findings, have purchased four pairs of AE and each one of them was a disappointment. Moving forward I have found that Spanish shoemakers offer the greatest quality and design esthetic for the money. Yanko is one of my personal favorites. TLB is a notch better, an outstanding shoe value and handsome shoe.
Carmina are a very good Spanish brand .
@@krystjanchanerley9288 Carmina are really nice but you can buy fully handmade shoes for what Carmina charges for good year welted.
Well done on the video. I FINALLY gave up on Allen Edmonds about 2 years ago... And even then, it had was about 5 years since I bought shoes from them.....
The turning point came when I bought a pair of dress boots from them online. When I opened the box, I was shocked.... One of the shoes had been worn so much that it actually had the typical creases that come from wearing shoes. Obviously it was a return that AE was re-selling as new and the person putting the package together couldn't care less about what was being sent out. I just had it. The last pair of shoes are nice. I truly like them. But the soles wore out so fast. I think within a month, I was noticing the wear on the soles.
But they are a GREAT marketing company. That's why they are still in business. Because they can gain enough new buyers to offset the ones they lose. I was a DEDICATED AE buyer for years. Back in the 1990s, the shoes were NICE. But there was a noticeable drop off in quality somewhere in the late 2000s. They just looked and felt so much cheaper. Worth about half the retail price.
And for 1/2 that retail price, there are so many alternatives that are superior to AE... Meermin being the best example as I have 3 pairs... Fantastic style and quality. Have had them for about 2 years and still look new. Their only US store here in Manhattan is absolutely lovely. Guys there just like to chat about shoes. I'll probably buy a pair of TLB Mallorca black oxfords when the time comes largely due to your glowing review of them. I met them at a trunk show last October here in NYC but they didn't have the size in the model I wanted......
For the consumer, the Internet is a superb thing. If someone makes a bad choice, it's largely on them. Not always but mostly.
Man, you're an absolute GEM. Your videos are TOP NOTCH. I really hope you make it big soon because I want more vids for a long time. I'd love a video specifically about the best loafers at different prices
Excellent stuff Chris. I had already seen bad comments by reputable experts on YT about the poor quality of Allen Edmonds shoes but your analysis is very detailed and spot on. I have to say, I never liked them; they look cheap and ugly. The fact that these people have the cheek to ask $400 for a pair of shoddy shoes is unbelievable. Thank you for this great video. Thumbs up!
Yeah, this is why I only buy AE factory seconds on Shoebank.
Hey Chris, happy to see that you are thriving! I watched your Yearn video nearly a year ago and I didn't sub then, but I did now! Great...no EXCEPTIONAL quality content as always! Amazing detail and I love that you explain even the stuff 'we should already know' like what each stitch is like (Blake vs Goodyear). I find that you do a superior job for example explaining and showing exactly how the goodyear welt and blake stitch actually look and work. I've seen that goodyear welt diagram 10 times and FINALLY today just after watching this really feel like I have a good idea exactly how it is constructed.
Details like the text suggesting the cost of a good resole is a question I've always had that other channels really glaze over or don't talk about at all. Finding out a good resole costs maybe half the cost of a good $300+ shoe could be surprising to a lot of people (including me!). Gonna go check out some of your other videos like the Beckett Siminon chop (ouch for your wallet!) but at least it seems to have gotten some views...
And just like last year, I'm not super into dress shoes...but I just love your videos anyway! LOL
How could I forget! You left one of my first comments! I am so glad I earned your subscribe :). I don't blame you for not doing so, I am proud of that Yearn video but I rewatched it a bit recently and the audio quality on it........oof.
I am so glad you said that about GYW construction because I have always felt the same way! It took me forever to wrap my head around how the shoe actually comes together and would love to make the resource that I wish I had long ago that very clearly shows how the construction works in a way that is really understandable. Now that I have some halved GYW shoes, I'll probably make a couple videos dedicated to a full explanation of Blake/GYW construction in the future. So happy to see you again!
I have one pair of AE shoes, which I bought in 2003. Is that before their drop in quality? The soles of mine developed holes after many years of wear, so I had them resoled. But otherwise, they've held up fairly well.
I have a couple pairs from Carmina. Their regular price is $550 ($413 if you get a pair during the semi annual sale). Not cheap, but the quality difference compared to AE is hard to believe.
Interesting. First a quick correction. A shoe last is the foundation of a shoe's design, while the upper is the part of the shoe that covers the foot. All of AEs dress shoes are leather uppers and they use various lasts for different types of shoes and boots. I’ve been wearing AE and Alden since 1996. I prefer AE over Alden as AE shoes come in different widths from very narrow to very wide. There is no other shoe company in that price point that offers their width selection. In addition, AE regularly run sales and you can easily get a new pair for under $300, and I’ve found their return policy very generous. In my 28-year relationship with buying AE shoes I have only had to return 2 pairs and they quickly remedied the issue by sending me a new pair. Their quality has certainly taken a hit due to a couple ownership changes, but still decent. They are also endlessly recraftable and I still wear my Park Avenues purchased in 1996.
TLB Mallorca Artistas are a good deal more than 400 USD, more like 445 Euro. Plus the lasts are so special they really require the purchase of a shoe tree in the same last, so 75 euro on top of the shoe price. Interesting and informative video tho, you clearly know how to take a critical look at a shoe :)
TLB Artisa shoes are 377 euro, I just checked and that is about $400 USD and they ship for free and their shoes are spectactular. There is NO comparison between AE and TLB bc TLB shoes beat AE on everything. And you can use a generic shoe tree for TLB. You dont need to buy the lasted ones.
In reference to the recent makings of Allen Edmonds shoes, I have to agree with every point that you have made, however in their defense, I have to say that the earlier better made iterations of the AE shoe, maybe grossly misunderstood in their design and purpose. AE shoes are perceived to be an entry-level “dress shoe “ and this is what they are not . As we both know, there are many different purposes and tears of Leather shoes. The Design language Of the A E shoe tells me that they are a shoe that is highly durable and is perhaps a workhorse in that they can be worn every day /all day And everywhere And most importantly, a better alternative to a sneaker or trainer as opposed to a standard Typical dress shoe which is to be worn only once maybe twice a week and During said days only part of that day and to be taken off in the evening after work and They can only be worn in specific places like indoors on a carpet or a marble floor . The standards in design in the two types of shoes are to be different, and I don’t think that it is fair to hold the AE shoe to the standard of A dress shoe.. There are other shoes for that purpose so instead Grade them as a “work Horse -dress shoe” (the older better made ones). And in this way, I am sure they will come out on the higher end of their kind. Thank you.
Leatherboard in the heel stack doesn't matter because the outsole they use wears out in about 10 miles. Cheap! When you take them to a cobbler to resole, then you can get what you want. (I'm not excusing Allen Edmonds' cheap quality.)
That's disappointing seeing the cork separate from the outsole. Do other makers not have this problem?
That plastic heel counter: I'm wearing a pair of Strands right now that are about 8 years old, and the leather lining has worn down to the plastic, and they are now uncomfortable. The toe cap on these shoes are non-existant. However, they still look fantastic.
Thanks for pointing out the upper leather flaws. I think most of my AEs have that going on.
I'll push back a little bit on the looks. Most men wear horrible plastic shoes. Compared to most, AE shoes really stand out as a handsome shoe in day to day life. There is a certain ruggedness to them compared to European dress shoes that fit well with the American casual aesthetic.
The video was spot on 😊excellent video
top tier review
while watching the video I kept noticing how amazing the bridlen shoes looked, I'll definitely look into them, thank you for letting me know about them!
I have a pair of BLKBRD Dixon boots and absolutely love them and saw that you featured a Bridlen and BLKBRD shoes... I am really, really warming up to Indian boot/shoemakers.
They are overpriced when compared to any decent European shoe brand. Can't compare with Carlos Santos quality and finish not even in the same league.
Last time I went to an Allen Edmonds store I was wearing some Carlos Santos Monks that I bough for around $200 from Herring, the Allen Edmonds employees were all over them 😅
Grantstone has a captoe that is several miles better than any Allen Edmonds for $100 less, basically an Alden when it comes to quality and construction.
Allen Edmonds are good beater shoes though.
Allen Edmonds is a okay value if you can buy them for less than $200 but even then the quality is fine but the styles are a bit outdated and would rather apply that money towards a more expensive Carmina or something like that.
The sole waist width is a design choice. But yes. We understand at this point. There’s nothing you enjoy design wise on AE.
good review
Wow, thank you for this in-depth review! I was a huge fan of AE in the past. Too bad they've declined so significantly
Thanks so much for your professionally presented video. Had my last horrific experience with AE in 2019. At that time i could only identify the external flaws on my purchases. Was'nt aware of the numerous internal shortcomings in build quality as i suspect most long time AE customers like me were not. Would love to continue to buy American shoes but we've lost so many decent manufactures over last several decades and Alden has limited styles but may be my next lover in shoe romance.
Those "internal flaws" won't impact the longevity of the shoe... At all.
Hey Chris, I live in the Lakewood, CO area, so it is pretty awesome to find a reviewer here in Colorado! Thanks for this review. I bought a pair of Allen Edmonds about a year ago, and I do feel like they are not even NEAR the quality of my Meermins, which I just bought a 2nd pair of recently and after a few months am about to receive. I could never put my finger on why, but your detailed video is pretty awesome. Thank you!
Thank you so much! Lakewood is great!
I have one pair but not sure when they were made. I likely will look for another company. It won't be stupid Beckett and Simonon who buys their shoes outside of USA (NOT American made) but refuse to ship to Canada. The reasons they give is BS if they would just use USPS. I hope to find maybe an out of Canada company that still makes shoes the old way. Made in Canada or USA is no longer a guarantee of quality as such companies generally market their name rather than quality. If Canadian viewers can recommend $500 and less companies, please do so.
Thank you. Could never figure out their dry hard insole. I never found them comfortable but everyone tells me I’m wrong.
Not defending the decline in quality, but I buy mainly AEs and for $100 or less, barely used via eBay. For that price, I’m comfortable with the compromise and feel they are a much better buy than cemented, mainstream brands. At retail pricing, I’d be considering many other brands. Thanks for the informative content.
I also have Allen Edmonds Park Avenue & Fifth Avenue shoes, and a few years ago, I decided to move over to their brand after throwing away a few pairs of shoes made by Johnston and Murphy. I have been happy with Allen Edmonds's shoes since moving to them. Their shoes are American-made and of high quality due to the Goodyear welt, as most shoes today are cemented and not quality. I currently have six pairs of their dress shoes and boots.
Ohhh man oh man did you save me some money.. thank you and great job tearing AL you have there apart for a real quality check.. thank you 🙏🏻
Thanks!
It usually takes me a while to respond to comments but I just wanted to say thank you so much!!!!!!
Have 10-12 pairs of AEs, lost count over the decades but had no need to replace any in my shoe wardrobe since early 2000s. As one on their mailing list, i kept up with new styles in both casual and dress varieties. Was check8ng out the website 8n Nov 2019 and noticed they were closing out Park Avenue in navy. Had several PAs and Ffith Ave in various colors but not navy. Having several suits in various shades of blue, i ordered a pair. Know retail was $395 and believe clearance price was $250-275. First order arrived with flaws in leather as well as stitching flaws in welt. Ordered 2nd pair, arrived flawed also...uneven navy dyeing . Not happy but really wanted the navy PAs, especially at the clearance price so i ordered another pair. Was initially satisfied when 3rd navy pair arrived as i didnt spot any obvious flaws, at least i thought that was the case. After examining i sat this pair on table in front of me and then noticed that one of the shoes did sit flat on the table from front to back but "rocked" when i attempted to hold the heel flat against the flat surface, the toe was lifted off of the table, causing the shoe to "rock" back and forth. The mate to this "rocker" was just fine, though, sitting flat on the table as it should. Calculating the math, one of 6 shoes (3pair) was only one without flaws or 16.6% of what were supposed to be first quality shoes. I was thoroughly disgusted as i had also ordered a navy AE belt to match at regular retail price. Had never experienced such sloppy workmanship in AE shoes before, other than very minor imperfections that i knew shoe polish would cover up. After a couple months i thought back to my previous AE purchases and realized i hadnt bought any new shoes since early 2000s and prior to 2006 private equity takeover. I cant blame that company, nor the Brentwood group that had ownership until Caleres bought AE in 2016. I do however blame Caleres for cutting corners on everything from craftsmanship, materials, customer service and even the attrative and informative catalogs that used to be mailed to those of us on the mailing lists. Sadly Caleres doesn't know or care who their main target customer is. Doubt it's the 20s, 30s age group that the ugly white soled sneakers seem to target. For casual shoes I'll always favor drivers and venetians and Gold Cup Sperrys over hideous white rubber sole sneakers in dress shoe styles. Only AEs I'll purchase in the future would be lightly used or new on ebay or some other internet site. Bottom line...greedy corporations don't care about loyal customers who have bought products from them for decades. I have several pair of USA made JMs from the 90s and before that i will pull out of storage boxes and wear before spending another dime with AE. Feel as if I'm being conned by AE now to the tune of $425 each time. Sad for this divorce but i didnt cheat on you but Caleres you will cheat me if i was foolish enough to ever trust you again. Fortunstely I've got enough shoes to last past my lifetime if i choose. Bye bye AE.
Thank you for taking the time to share your story.
@@DressWell.MadarasAR has been owned by a bank or similar financial interests for decades. Their shoes have been made in much the same way (at least their core lineup) since at least the 1970s. Leather globally has been dropping in quality and AE actually gets their calfskin from a European tannery and used to get it from the same one that supplied Hermes (they then bought it and AE lost access). Most people aren't going to play size by email with EU brands.
Honestly looks like 10 year old shoes instead of looking brand new
I do have about 6 pairs of AE's and I started buying them before I knew as much about shoes as I do now. I agree with most of your assessment. I started branching out and now added some Rancourt and Company (camp mocs), and Grant Stone (boots and loafers), and even a pair of Thursday Boots Sneaker (really incredible value and so comfortable), and I have noticed a difference in quality especially with the Grant Stone. I noticed it most with the finishing along the opening, where the GS are way better finished. I also have been paying attention to the heel blocks and how AE doesn't use all leather construction. I have McAllisters, Strandmoks, Hamilton boots and another cap toe boot, the "Frost". Overall probably good enough, and most were purchased on sale, but not all. Sold some Strands recently on eBay. Great video sir, really enjoying your content.
My only pair of Allen Edmonds Dress shoes that I regularly wear are some McNeil Cordovan Gunboats. I bought them slightly used and unbroken in on ebay for $100 because the lady didn’t know that they were $750 Cordovan Horsehide shoes. They are built like tanks. Over a year of regular wear they have only broken in a little bit and show no signs of wear. I don’t do any maintenance on them at all other than dusting and wiped down.
I had a cheaper pair of derby’s and they were OK but some parts of the trim weren’t made correctly.
Great video. Just subscribed and look forward to your future videos as well as going back through your catalog.
I would just add that given this last round of inflation anything less $500 for a pair dress shoes should be considered inexpensive, imho, and you tend to get what you pay for when it comes to shoes, with some exceptions of course. Also, I have exceptionally wide feet, which is why as a younger man I went with AE due to its wide range of sizes (yes, pun intended). For this reason, your offered alternatives don't work for me. I never thought AE made a particularly high quality shoe to begin with and it seems to have only gotten worse. Now that I'm older and can afford it, I'm going with bespoke shoes for my dress shoes and loafers. Obviously way more expensive but no issue as to quality and my feet have never had it so good.
Yes smh quality went down years ago and they sell at same and higher prices , soon they will go out of biz
He hasn't talked about the devaluation of to US dollar twice this year by the FED and Biden admen (2024) AE is what I buy because I need EEE to EEEE.
Chris mate your review is topnotch, AE shoes is not right now what was before a decade..i admire your depth knowledge of shoes.
I subbed, hope you all the best..
I appreciate that!
AE is a highly overrated brand, and they are not even well regarded. Not worth more than $150 and I still wouldn't recommend tham at that price due to the cheap looking and boring lasts. Avoid.
p.s. thanks for a great video!
I hate when people say AE is great value when the lasting is so unattractive, the looks are the whole point of a dress shoe. Many heritage British brands are guilty of these hideous lasts too. Companies need to look to Antonio Meccariello and Yeossal for how lasts should be designed in the modern age. Nobody wants a leather blob on their feet, no matter how well constructed the blob is.
@@taiteyard3567 The lasts are the best part. European lasts look weird, angular, dainty, pointy and just flat out uncanny to me. I much prefer the classic American shoe shape thank you very much!
@@taiteyard3567 Yes, many British brands are stuck with cheap and boring lasts. That rules them out for me no matter how well constructed they might be.
@@GuyFierisShirt European lasting is different maker to maker and country to country. If you prefer American lasts, you probably haven’t spent much time looking at high end shoes. I will agree that many makers like Corthay, G&G, and Enzo Bonafe can produce uniquely bizarre and hideous lasts, but amidst that bad ones you will eventually emerge with an appreciation for more angular and shapely lasting. Take a look at lasts from Asian makers like Oct tenth, Yohei Fukuda, and the Italian Antonio Meccariello, they elevate the dress shoe to something else entirely. Most transcendentally great things in this life need to be earned through time spent in ponderance, and appreciation for good art, like high end footwear, is no exception.
@@taiteyard3567 great points
Will you do a review of any British brands like Crockett and Jones?
It’s weird how a new pair of Red Wing heritage boots are cheaper, better built, and still USA made. Sad to see AE go down the drain
AE sucks today. The last is great for a boot, not for a shoe. Ae beyond lacks compared to my Crockett and Jones. Heck, my meermin are grades above ae quality.
You absolutely cannot a similar shoe for $150. As a comparison, look at Thursday. You’ll find they cut more corners than AE and are $190. The brands you brought up also aren’t $150. The big deal with AE is that many are American made. You don’t even place any value in that.
AE no longer exclusively manufactures in the US. I would love to support "made in the US" if the quality was similar to made elsewhere. Even at $250 on sale, I will no longer purchase AE shoes. Besides the declination of quality, they are not stylish. The lasts have no shape. It looks like you are wearing a brick on your foot.
AE makes wide sizes. They win.
Your critique of Allen Edmonds shoes is overly dramatic and nitpicky, turning minor issues into major complaints. Let's put things in perspective: Allen Edmonds offers decent shoes, especially when on sale, and their unique sizing options cater to a variety of foot widths. Unlike the standard narrow D width that some people prefer, brands like Allen Edmonds and Alden provide alternatives for those with wider feet, making them top choices.
The fact that Allen Edmonds shoes are US-made is significant. The concept of US-made products is diminishing, and it's vital to support it. US workers are not as cheap as foreign. Your argument about cost versus quality is questionable. For me, being able to visit a store and experience the product firsthand is invaluable. Allen Edmonds shoes are crafted in Port Washington, Wisconsin, by dedicated employees who contribute to the local economy. Buying US-made products like Allen Edmonds is important, and you can't find a similar quality shoe for $150. Even brands like Thursday, which cut more corners than AE, cost $190. The alternatives you mentioned aren't
I wear a 49 EU, 14 EE/15 size shoe. Only AE makes a shoe that fits. This video’s critiques are valid for certain customers. As for me, most places don’t make shoes big enough that aren’t fire or mountaineering boots for me to care.
You should contact Cru Nonpareil. They make shoes to accomodate wide feet and large feet.
I’m sure Carmina will take all their business.
I have pairs of Allen Edmonds in my closet that are older than you, son. That's quality. Have a nice day!
Thanks. Shoes are a very important part of a gentleman's wardrobe and need to be high end. Carmina and TLB are high quality, stylish, customizable shoes and are a great value. I have seen American icon brands, one after another going down the drain. Pity.🤔
I wanted to dislike this video, I truly did, but I learned some things so my opinions must reflect new info...and that is my barometer for quality.
Take your "like," albeit begrudgingly 😞
Open-mindedness is a sign of wisdom. Respect.
Hey man, you make great videos. I'd love to support you.
Thank you so much!!!!
Thank you, I have a pair OF AE Carlyles & the stitching on the soles air becoming frayed after about four wears. Cost per wear is very important to me.
S
Controversial king 👑
Nice to discover your channel, and is great to see some with all these details. By the way, even the cheaper line of herring shoes of 100 pounds have less construction issues than this AE