This is thee hardest pattern to follow and I know how to mk a sock is there any way for you to tell us where you start at it looks like your pushing the pushers up around needle 3 I’ve rewatched this like 20x and can’t figure it out. I can’t follow your decreases it like “start here” WHERE is it 3left from 1 I’m so confused.
Hi there, do I repeat those two rows 12 times, if my total cast on is 48 stitches, and my heel flap is 24 stitches? so I guess my row counter will register 24 rows, anyway, right? once the heel flap is completed?
hi, I am doing a 48 stitch child's sock, the heel flap was done over 24 stitches, I did 12 pairs of the repeat for the flap, when doing the heel turn part, I slipped 1, then knit 14 which is two more than half past the middle (which is actually ;needle L2), knit across, Then I put all the pushers down, so as not to get confused, on the second row, I slipped 1, then put up five pushers, took needles L6, L5 and put L5 on needle L4, L6 in L5 space, to do the ssk and put two more pushers up, one for the ssk and one for the k1, and knit across. But I don't end up with the same number of needles on each side. and the empty needles are off a bit. I did it so many times, still end up the same way. I can't figure out what I am doing wrong. 😑. Hope you can decipher my explanation.
Ok, so for the turn, the first row should be slip, knit (some number, past center) then a decrease, then 1 knit (you move 2 stitches over, forming a gap). Ideally you should be left with an even number of stitches after the gap- this is your first check. Then on the next row, it’s slip, then knit (some number), decrease then knit 1 (move 2 over). You should have the same number of stitches after the gap on the right as you had on the left- this is your second check. After those match up, you increase how much you knit in each direction by 1 stitch. Hope this helps!! Here is a hand knit pattern calculator that can determine the stitches to knit to establish the heel. There are many heel styles and no single one is more correct, just what fits you best. You could try “rounder” which gives similar numbers to what you describe www.dotsdabblesdesigns.com/heelturn-calculator/
Yes, they are electronically controlled though, so act a bit different for selection- the DM80 won’t put the pushers down for you after a row like it does on the e6000.
I came up with the solution after trying to make heel flap socks another way, and just wrote the schematic down for where to place the stitches. Other than that, I have nothing written. What are you looking for? It will take a bit to make a written pattern, but it is doable.
@@motherofallcrafts54I would like a written pattern, too, if you wouldn't mind doing that, I would appreciate it so much. Just the heel flap and gusset parts
This is thee hardest pattern to follow and I know how to mk a sock is there any way for you to tell us where you start at it looks like your pushing the pushers up around needle 3 I’ve rewatched this like 20x and can’t figure it out. I can’t follow your decreases it like “start here” WHERE is it 3left from 1 I’m so confused.
Hi there, do I repeat those two rows 12 times, if my total cast on is 48 stitches, and my heel flap is 24 stitches? so I guess my row counter will register 24 rows, anyway, right? once the heel flap is completed?
Sorry I was traveling the last few days! Yes, that is correct, unless you want to adjust it if you have a high or low instep.
hi, I am doing a 48 stitch child's sock, the heel flap was done over 24 stitches, I did 12 pairs of the repeat for the flap, when doing the heel turn part, I slipped 1, then knit 14 which is two more than half past the middle (which is actually ;needle L2), knit across, Then I put all the pushers down, so as not to get confused, on the second row, I slipped 1, then put up five pushers, took needles L6, L5 and put L5 on needle L4, L6 in L5 space, to do the ssk and put two more pushers up, one for the ssk and one for the k1, and knit across. But I don't end up with the same number of needles on each side. and the empty needles are off a bit. I did it so many times, still end up the same way. I can't figure out what I am doing wrong. 😑. Hope you can decipher my explanation.
Ok, so for the turn, the first row should be slip, knit (some number, past center) then a decrease, then 1 knit (you move 2 stitches over, forming a gap). Ideally you should be left with an even number of stitches after the gap- this is your first check. Then on the next row, it’s slip, then knit (some number), decrease then knit 1 (move 2 over). You should have the same number of stitches after the gap on the right as you had on the left- this is your second check. After those match up, you increase how much you knit in each direction by 1 stitch. Hope this helps!! Here is a hand knit pattern calculator that can determine the stitches to knit to establish the heel. There are many heel styles and no single one is more correct, just what fits you best. You could try “rounder” which gives similar numbers to what you describe www.dotsdabblesdesigns.com/heelturn-calculator/
hi, also is LX the same as BX on the dm80 or pinkie?
Yes, they are electronically controlled though, so act a bit different for selection- the DM80 won’t put the pushers down for you after a row like it does on the e6000.
Is this written down anywhere? Thank you
I came up with the solution after trying to make heel flap socks another way, and just wrote the schematic down for where to place the stitches. Other than that, I have nothing written. What are you looking for? It will take a bit to make a written pattern, but it is doable.
@@motherofallcrafts54 HI, please can you post the schematic somewhere? Did you have a webpage?
Not yet. I’ll see what I can do.
@@motherofallcrafts54I would like a written pattern, too, if you wouldn't mind doing that, I would appreciate it so much. Just the heel flap and gusset parts
This would be great I thought I just didn’t understand