Thank you for a very informative video. I have air escaping from the back nut that secures the spring and seal. Is the valve not functioning or should I replace the washer in the back nut?
Depending on the type of metal. If it's a decent composition of metals material, you should be able to just replace the O ring / washer or just put some PTFE tape on the thread for a seal. If however it's one of those cheap puter valves like in this video, I would recommend just replacing the valve as you might have a warped end cap or a fine hairline crack.
Hi. So I take it you have looked at the non return valve? If that is fine then I would suggest letting it run till it stops and cuts the breaker. As soon as that happens, feel how hot your electrical motor is. Might be the stator inside the motor that causes friction becuase of a worn bearing. If the electrical motor seems fine then it might be piston rings on the pump, might also be conrod bearings or crank bearings in the pump. And you are 100% sure the uF reading on the capacitors are in range?
@@MrJalesh1 Yes so with that I would definitely recommend you try and turn the electrical motor by hand and feel if there is any tension or friction. If that seems fine and you say your starting capacitor is reading good numbers, I would strip the electrical motor and look for any signs of shorts etc. Or just remove the electrical motor and take it to a motor rewinder, seems to be a electrical fault on the motor.
Thank you for a very informative video. I have air escaping from the back nut that secures the spring and seal. Is the valve not functioning or should I replace the washer in the back nut?
Depending on the type of metal. If it's a decent composition of metals material, you should be able to just replace the O ring / washer or just put some PTFE tape on the thread for a seal. If however it's one of those cheap puter valves like in this video, I would recommend just replacing the valve as you might have a warped end cap or a fine hairline crack.
Thank you for the quick response appreciate you kindness.
My compressor starts then stops and cuts the breaker, what can it be? Checked the capacitors all working fine.
Hi. So I take it you have looked at the non return valve? If that is fine then I would suggest letting it run till it stops and cuts the breaker. As soon as that happens, feel how hot your electrical motor is. Might be the stator inside the motor that causes friction becuase of a worn bearing.
If the electrical motor seems fine then it might be piston rings on the pump, might also be conrod bearings or crank bearings in the pump. And you are 100% sure the uF reading on the capacitors are in range?
@@TechniAirCompressors_DIY no I have not checked that, but the compressor does not run, as soon as you put it on, it cuts the fuse off.
@@MrJalesh1 Yes so with that I would definitely recommend you try and turn the electrical motor by hand and feel if there is any tension or friction. If that seems fine and you say your starting capacitor is reading good numbers, I would strip the electrical motor and look for any signs of shorts etc. Or just remove the electrical motor and take it to a motor rewinder, seems to be a electrical fault on the motor.
Wonder if thats the same company as California Air Tools?
Just had to do this today on 2hp 10gal.
Not 100% sure. As far as I'm aware it's a chinese re-branded for the South African market.