Tip: Cut a spacer block and attach a handle to fit between batten strips. It's faster than using a tape measure and level. Assumes the first batten on each wall is plumb.
Oh I like that idea. That would have saved a lot of time. Id did ensure corners were plumb, so definitely it would have worked. For anyone else who is watching or thinking about installing Hardi Board, you should try Mike's suggestion. Thanks for the comments and for watching!
I'm a woman who doesn't build things, and even I laughed when I saw them using a tape measure every time (not even holding it level at 4:13). Surely they had plenty of scrap board they could have used as a spacer. Found this video trying to decide whether the board and batten look would work for my house. Looks nice here!
Works even better for horizontal siding, make a T shape and hold it upside down with the horizontal piece sitting proud of the vertical piece, vertical piece is the length of the reveal specified usually 6.5” for 8” wide planks. Set your bottom course, place the upside down at against the first course, set next course on top and nail it. With 2 guys and this method you can side a house in a day.
Nice job gents! 👏🏾 My wife & I just brought a 1955 house in W. Covina, California with batten & board siding. Didn't know that was the proper name until watching this video
I tried to start at a stud and hoped everything was on 16" centers as it should. As an extra precaution I did add some thick plywood underneath. If you stick to 16" centers you should be good. I hoped you enjoyed the entire series. Thanks for watching!
I know your proud, I just completed my house upgrade, went from 1960's asbestos shingles to Hardie board and baton. It's tough work, I am 68 and did it with the help of my wife. What type of nails did you use? And what spacing on the buttons did you use? Again great job
What a great project you and your wife took. I'm sure it looks amazing as well! Tough work is what keeps us strong, but 68, hats off to you! I used two different lengths nails (2 1/2" & 1 1/2") both were galvanized. Baton spacing is 16" on siding but I've seen other use 12". Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching. Check out my kitchen videos, nearly done a kitchen reno. Cheers!
I am guessing it doesn't matter because your siding is under the cover of a roof line, but isn't window and door trim supposed to but up against the Hardie Board rather than sit on top of it? That way waters will hit the flashing and run over the trim and windows. I could be wrong but it looks that way according to the installation guide from the manufacturer.
The large overhang does provide a ton of protection. My logic, right or wrong, was to have depth, that is to create a bigger profile. Hopefully making it pop more. It probably is more cost effective as time effective. I'll look at it for my next job. Thanks for watching!
Not really but I tried to keep a gap for the caulking and thereby ensure watertight seals. Sheets were heavy, and I didn't weight them either but i would guess 30-40 Lbs. Thanks for watching!
What are the finishing details if I want to try and do this on my own? Would you have to cover the holes or caulk around the edges? Is this important for like rain? Newbie but curious
Hi Nancy! After I had installed the boards, I ensured that layer, was water proof. I applied the special caulking approved for Hardi-Board, at each seam and edge. I also caulked over each nail head. BTW, anywhere I had cut the board, I also used their special touch up paint to seal the cuts, before I installed the boards. I tried to show each step over the course of several videos. Any other questions feel free to ask away.
I had installed 3/4 plywood over the existing plywood. The old appeared to be 3/8". I wanted to ensure a good grip of the fasteners when installing the hardi board. Thanks for watching!
Why didn’t you put hardie board and stucco on top of it? It would have looked nicer, but I like how it turned out. I am just biased because I LOVE STUCCO match with stone.
Before I decided on Hardi-Board, I was looking at stucco. I also like that look. The place I dealt with, a reputable place, had warned me of the complexity the stucco systems these days are. That made me paranoid, since I wanted to do the work. I also loved the Hardi-Board look, it was easier and less risk, so I went with it. Thanks for watching!
I don't think I understand your question. Hardi Board has Pros and Cons but I am very pleased with the product and how it is holding up to the weather.
Sorry for the delayed response. For some reason your comment was held???? Anyways, I used a dewalt and the nails were galvanized 2" construction, not sure of the gage though. Thanks for watching!
I could have, but if you look closely, there is a definite design on the edges. I really like that look. If they were ripped from wood, the edges would be smoother. I guess it boils down to personal choice, and cost too. Thanks for the comment and watching the video!
@@fireandlemon131 I mean instead of measuring the spacing for each batten when putting them up just cut two spacers to place at the top and bottom and fire away.
@@erenbecomesdovecrying6016, Sorry I understand now. A comment from Mike Hunt suggested similarly but with the addition of a handle. Both great ideas. Any tips for when I clad the posts? That was very time consuming because the 4x4 posts had twisted on me since installed a few years prior.
@@fireandlemon131 use a larger dimension of lumber so that it doesnt warp when its drying or let the 4x4 dry more before installing a roof on it. Larger lumber is almost always a better solution for a structure like that, always overbuilding exposed areas. If you dont know the answer just overbuild. You could use a larger dimension of lumber to clad it so that it wont twist down on to the pole. Or a more rigid species of kiln dried wood. The problem was likely the grooved boards you were using, they are grooved to be lighter but they are also very flexible so they would adhere to the contours when nailing. Or drill pilot holes for screws instead of power nailing and float the cladding on the twisted areas. Or hand nail. The power nailer was driving the nails too far. You could replace the warped post.
Certainly can't argue on that one. I guess I'm glad I don't try to make a living off of this. I still prefer the look and I don't mind the extra time and effort. Thanks for watching and the comment!
That is the benefit of DIY, you can spend more time and get the look you want rather than having to settle for a team of "PROS" who rush through and cut corners and would never miter corners like you wanted.
That is the benefit of DIY, you can spend more time and get the look you want rather than having to settle for a team of "PROS" who rush through and cut corners and would never miter corners like you wanted.
Tip: Cut a spacer block and attach a handle to fit between batten strips. It's faster than using a tape measure and level. Assumes the first batten on each wall is plumb.
Oh I like that idea. That would have saved a lot of time. Id did ensure corners were plumb, so definitely it would have worked. For anyone else who is watching or thinking about installing Hardi Board, you should try Mike's suggestion. Thanks for the comments and for watching!
I'm a woman who doesn't build things, and even I laughed when I saw them using a tape measure every time (not even holding it level at 4:13). Surely they had plenty of scrap board they could have used as a spacer. Found this video trying to decide whether the board and batten look would work for my house. Looks nice here!
Works even better for horizontal siding, make a T shape and hold it upside down with the horizontal piece sitting proud of the vertical piece, vertical piece is the length of the reveal specified usually 6.5” for 8” wide planks. Set your bottom course, place the upside down at against the first course, set next course on top and nail it. With 2 guys and this method you can side a house in a day.
Nice job gents! 👏🏾
My wife & I just brought a 1955 house in W. Covina, California with batten & board siding.
Didn't know that was the proper name until watching this video
That's great news, congratulations on your new house, exciting times! Glad to hear the video was helpful, thanks for watching.
Did you place each batten on a stud or did you just pick a distance and shoot them into the cement sheathing?
I tried to start at a stud and hoped everything was on 16" centers as it should. As an extra precaution I did add some thick plywood underneath. If you stick to 16" centers you should be good. I hoped you enjoyed the entire series. Thanks for watching!
Nice job Jeff! House looks great!
Thanks Ailsa! I love watching Dave's Videos at Scott Rods. Cant wait to see it running.
Almost done, looking so nice.
Thanks Dhiya! Thanks for watching. Anna and I certainly enjoy the process of making the videos. When we get comments it makes it so much better!
I know your proud, I just completed my house upgrade, went from 1960's asbestos shingles to Hardie board and baton. It's tough work, I am 68 and did it with the help of my wife.
What type of nails did you use? And what spacing on the buttons did you use? Again great job
What a great project you and your wife took. I'm sure it looks amazing as well! Tough work is what keeps us strong, but 68, hats off to you! I used two different lengths nails (2 1/2" & 1 1/2") both were galvanized. Baton spacing is 16" on siding but I've seen other use 12". Thanks for the compliment and thanks for watching. Check out my kitchen videos, nearly done a kitchen reno. Cheers!
Place looks great!
Thanks Mike! Only a few videos left and the place is ready for some 1000 degree steaks to celebrate! Thanks for watching and commenting.
I am guessing it doesn't matter because your siding is under the cover of a roof line, but isn't window and door trim supposed to but up against the Hardie Board rather than sit on top of it? That way waters will hit the flashing and run over the trim and windows. I could be wrong but it looks that way according to the installation guide from the manufacturer.
The large overhang does provide a ton of protection. My logic, right or wrong, was to have depth, that is to create a bigger profile. Hopefully making it pop more. It probably is more cost effective as time effective. I'll look at it for my next job. Thanks for watching!
Did you have to leave space between each 4x8 sheet? How heavy were the 4x8 sheets?
Not really but I tried to keep a gap for the caulking and thereby ensure watertight seals. Sheets were heavy, and I didn't weight them either but i would guess 30-40 Lbs. Thanks for watching!
What are the finishing details if I want to try and do this on my own? Would you have to cover the holes or caulk around the edges? Is this important for like rain? Newbie but curious
Hi Nancy! After I had installed the boards, I ensured that layer, was water proof. I applied the special caulking approved for Hardi-Board, at each seam and edge. I also caulked over each nail head. BTW, anywhere I had cut the board, I also used their special touch up paint to seal the cuts, before I installed the boards. I tried to show each step over the course of several videos. Any other questions feel free to ask away.
Oh an thanks for watching!
What material was used for the back board
I had installed 3/4 plywood over the existing plywood. The old appeared to be 3/8". I wanted to ensure a good grip of the fasteners when installing the hardi board. Thanks for watching!
Are your trim and battens also Hardie cement material?
Yes they were, and of different sizes and thickness as well. Thanks for watching!
What did you use to cover the nails in the battens?
I used the recommended caulking, the same caulking that I used at each seam. Probably didn't need to do it, but why not. Thanks for watching!
What color is the Hardie... "Timber Bark"?
Sorry for the late response, yes it is Timber bark.
Did you paint first?
Why didn’t you put hardie board and stucco on top of it?
It would have looked nicer, but I like how it turned out.
I am just biased because I LOVE STUCCO match with stone.
Before I decided on Hardi-Board, I was looking at stucco. I also like that look. The place I dealt with, a reputable place, had warned me of the complexity the stucco systems these days are. That made me paranoid, since I wanted to do the work. I also loved the Hardi-Board look, it was easier and less risk, so I went with it. Thanks for watching!
Is hardie board or lp smart siding
I don't think I understand your question. Hardi Board has Pros and Cons but I am very pleased with the product and how it is holding up to the weather.
Hello what kind of gun did you use and the gage thank you
Sorry for the delayed response. For some reason your comment was held???? Anyways, I used a dewalt and the nails were galvanized 2" construction, not sure of the gage though. Thanks for watching!
Just cut spacers for the battens out of a 2x4 or something
I could have, but if you look closely, there is a definite design on the edges. I really like that look. If they were ripped from wood, the edges would be smoother. I guess it boils down to personal choice, and cost too. Thanks for the comment and watching the video!
@@fireandlemon131 I mean instead of measuring the spacing for each batten when putting them up just cut two spacers to place at the top and bottom and fire away.
@@erenbecomesdovecrying6016, Sorry I understand now. A comment from Mike Hunt suggested similarly but with the addition of a handle. Both great ideas. Any tips for when I clad the posts? That was very time consuming because the 4x4 posts had twisted on me since installed a few years prior.
@@fireandlemon131 use a larger dimension of lumber so that it doesnt warp when its drying or let the 4x4 dry more before installing a roof on it. Larger lumber is almost always a better solution for a structure like that, always overbuilding exposed areas. If you dont know the answer just overbuild.
You could use a larger dimension of lumber to clad it so that it wont twist down on to the pole. Or a more rigid species of kiln dried wood. The problem was likely the grooved boards you were using, they are grooved to be lighter but they are also very flexible so they would adhere to the contours when nailing.
Or drill pilot holes for screws instead of power nailing and float the cladding on the twisted areas. Or hand nail. The power nailer was driving the nails too far.
You could replace the warped post.
What did you use for your board and baton?
Never miter exterior trim on windows you would starve if you did this for a living
Certainly can't argue on that one. I guess I'm glad I don't try to make a living off of this. I still prefer the look and I don't mind the extra time and effort. Thanks for watching and the comment!
That is the benefit of DIY, you can spend more time and get the look you want rather than having to settle for a team of "PROS" who rush through and cut corners and would never miter corners like you wanted.
That is the benefit of DIY, you can spend more time and get the look you want rather than having to settle for a team of "PROS" who rush through and cut corners and would never miter corners like you wanted.
@@Tomcoker1952 Its square edge trim, no need to miter it. With a "professional" install you can't tell its mitered or not.