Dining Room Makeover in a Sheffield Terraced House
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- Опубліковано 5 вер 2024
- The job that couldn't be finished for 3 months due to flooring issues - A zoned design for efficient use of a previously cluttered space in a Sheffield terraced house, with simple slab doors on touch-to-open mechanisms (blum tip-on) and spray painted in grey to match Farrow and Ball 'Plummett'
There is something hugely satisfying about your videos. As a cobby handed fella, I'll never be able to DIY stuff. That said, I'll never play as a midfielder for England, but I appreciate the skill. Great videos. Love that you explain the thought process of each decision. Just bliss
Great feedback, thanks so much!
Learning lots from your channel. I hope to make kitchen units for my partner's kitchen one day.
Alaister, this looks great, personally my favourite overall.. very very impressive.. class.
Great wrap around service👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
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Love the design looks great with the uniform shadow lines
Ben Chippy thanks
Another great video, well put together and of course finish job is top notch as always! 👍
Great advice and tips - thanks for posting
Loved the design and video by the way. Very informative. I stick to both your youtube chanel and instagram feeds.
Thanks Darko
You answered a lot of questions I had with this video. The glue type, the screws, drill bit, etc. Then again a few more pop in my mind just by watching the video carefully, like how many milimeters do you add to oversize the side cover panels so you have room to scribe (there's an idea - to see a video of of scribing and fitting one panel :)), and I think I stand correct that you oversize the top as well so you scribe it too.
Standard scribe allowance is 20mm extra beyond where the part touches the wall in the drawings
Alastair great videos and thanks for sharing tips to others. I note you use space plugs on side of units to space away from wall. Do you screw through the side panel to fit these and how do you hide those screws/holes from showing?
Sometimes I just use them like wedges, held in place with gap filling adhesive, and tightened both sides - I use them to square up slightly skewed units, as well as locking them firmly into place. Thanks for the feedback!
Nice video, I like your explanation of the different screws and design decisions. Do you ever find the confirmat screws pull out on edge of MDF?
Hi Sam we haven’t really had that problem with those screws, except occasionally if we’ve needed to take screws in and out a few times
Lovely work and great video as always. 👍 Can I ask why you use MDF as the backs of the Birchply cabinets and not Birchply?
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I have just discovered your great videos. Thank you much for sharing your skills. God bless you. Now I just need more hours in a day. One baffling question, if you leave a gap between the units and wall, does that mean the units are never screwed to the wall?
Hi Helen, I'm glad you like the videos! The units are always screwed back to the rear wall. Lately I prefer to wedge the side gaps with spaceplugs behind the scribe strips so everything is held rock solid
See this video showing brackets holding the units back to the wall, and spaceplugs wedging the gaps: ua-cam.com/video/Oy7dH-Z9MqI/v-deo.html
Those look fabulous! Please could you let me know what paint you used, and the method of painting.. the finish is really good and I think I should try and move away from Valspar :-)
Thanks, we are using Sayerlack waterbased paints, the topcoat is the AT99, we buy from Movac or Ultrimax
Sprayed
@@Alastair_Freebird thanks 👍
Another great video thanks - good advise of the screws; I'll have to try the confirmats as I normally use 'normal' screws and pilot hole - I see some of the carcases are plywood - is that just where their are inside a cupboard and won't be painted?
Kevin Gerald yes we make a saving by not painting internals unless customers request it (at a surcharge) and we decided birch ply looks better but also holds the screws better for the hinge mounting plates vs brown mdf.
Great video... how are the modern slab doors made? I want to make some as do not want the shaker style doors but not sure the best way to achieve this. Those doors look great.
John Canter just cut a rectangle out of MDF! 18mm would be ok but we mostly use 22mm these days. And at this time we were using Medite moisture resistant mdf but now we’ve discovered Finsa Fibrapan Hidrofugo mdf that’s even better. Only a little fine sanding is required on the cut edges to get them paint ready. And we use a 2mm bearing guided arris roundover router cutter to soften the arris edges
@@Alastair_Freebird Thank you so much for such a detailed response. I was hoping it would be that simple but wanted to check.
Great looking job. What was the reasoning for having the bin storage unit on feet as apposed to scribing to the floor ?.
Do you ever have any issues with the ply carcass edge, as in breakaway of edge when used for a while by customer ?.
Just easier to level that unit like that. Also being nearer to kitchen the floor seems more likely to need the occasional mop
Great piece of work I’ve got an alcove job coming up do you still have to pre drill those Spax screws
Holloway’s Carpentry you don’t need to pre drill the spax, they literally pilot the hole as they go in
Yeahs the purpose of the spax M is they self tap into MDF. However we use them a lot less than we used to - it can be just as quick to pilot drill with a separate drill then drive a standard screw in because you have to wait i a while pressing on the tip of the screw as it spins before it really catches and drives in
Great units! Enjoyed the video. But please stop spinning the camera around
Samantha M ok! I need to use the gimble stabiliser more often I think (and move
more slowly!)