@@asian_raisin I’ve made further changes today , cut a hole in my controller box for the flipsky to poke out, so flipsky is directly touching the seat tube, and it barely goes above 40C , i think flipsky just needs to be attached to the frame and overheating shoukdnt be a problem. I water proof caulk and sealed it from the inside 😂😂 i think we are ready for winter ☃️🏂❄️⛄️🏂❄️
I ordered the 75200 pro v2 just updating my ebike controller on my hiboy p6. Want something a bit more efficient and tuneable. I'm only running 48v still but that's enough for me right now going 20 on a bike is kinda nuts. Might step up to 60v one day but I just like tunning stuff and learning new things.
@@redline3036 careful with the flipsky 200 on the hub motor, id set the battery current max similar to your existing controller, and keep the motor current max (phase amps) 60 to 75 - too much motor current can break nylon gears. (When i increased my motor current to 105 it was a nylon gear grinder. 🙃)
@EBikeBuilder_ it's a pretty tame system stock, not going crazy and I def will watch the gears. I'll do some research I was thinking of keeping the stock setup and adding a front motor with the Flipsky not sure yet gotta keep thinking about it and figure out what I'm doing still.
Well 👍! Installed a controller on painted aluminum stock & don't know if that matters as a heat sink. My guess was yes it does but the guy wouldn't sand in down to bare metal. Your bike frame is painted though isn't it? My 2 Mars ebikes have a compartment for the controller below the seat tube & the Flipsky fits perfectly flat on the bare aluminum frame inside the compartment. So you proved the theory correct. E Cells Ebikes is potting their controllers & mounting them to the back of the seat tube to help cool them. What is Discord? An App? A few people in my CSR2 crew wanted to use it as many crews did to talk w/o using the censored Crew Chat in the game.
@@stevecumming6427 best way for sure is to stick the flipsky flat against the bike frame. I cut a flipsky-shaped hole in my controller box and did that today. With back of the flipsky sticking out of the box against the seat tube. And the flipsky doesnt go above 40 or 45C so that solved it. I think hooking it to your frame cools it enough so it can work ok inside a compartment without airflow. Discord is a chat thing I’m not a big chatter But its an alternative way to DM people also. It has voice chat
@@nicod974 grin tech g62 is 6.5t and bafang usually does 6t , both my g62 and g60 are 6T. but now bafang seems to do rm.g063.1000w with 5.5T , and i have an FM g61.1000w with 5.5T
@@EBikeBuilder_how can one know the turns number?? only by looking inside?? or can you "measure" it somehow ( measure rpm freewheeling and measure voltage) ???
@@robo3142i think the flipsky wires need extra heat shrink tubing, pushed up into the enclosure, as part Of the install .. The insulation on the flipsky wires is a soft silicone rips very easy and also potentially wires can short out to the aluminum case itself
@@JansBlog_official i cut a flipsky-shaped hole in my controller box. And changed it so the flipsky is directly zip tied to the bike seattube. And it didn’t go higher than 45C today
I've seen must of your Vesc videos hoping to figure out my issues with my geared hub motor. I keep having studdering when accelerating from stop or when I coast for a little and then hit then give it immediate throttle. I was thinking it was because I was running sensor less and planned on getting it all connected again to see if it fixed my issue. But you are running sensorless on the bafang without any issues??
@@naterivera1 mine studders slightly from a stop, but can be avoided by pedaling. The sensorless works quite well. I don’t have any studder while moving. You could try to increase the open loop ERPM , or maybe go into ADC throttle settings and increase the positive ramping time, there’s different FOC observers and advanced settings . But out of the box sensorless has always worked well for me. On my hub motors. What motor are you using??
@@EBikeBuilder_ Thanks for the reply. I am using a 48v500w geared hub that came with my Hurley mini swell. My main goal is increasing the torque. I initiallly setup a FSESC 4.12(max 57v) which is one of the earlier vesc with 48v and work great with twice the torque, apart from the start studder which I dont mind pedaling for a second. Stock controller wouldnt work unless you were above 3 mph. Wanted to get a little more torque using a larger 52v battery and flipsky 75100 v2. I get a bit more studders at the beggining and as well when I jam the throttle after coasting. Did yours run smoother at all when you used the hall sensor? I do have my motor amps up to like 120, so maybe turn that down a little. Also, did you happen to change you the wiring to the hub motor to thicker gauge? Saw some people do that to push their motors more since supposedly thats on of the points of failiure when pushing motors more then they are rated.
@@naterivera1 if its a typical geared hub with nylon gears i would recommend 75 motor amps to be safe. The bafang official gears i have used 90 motor amps without problems. But when using AliExpress 7$ replacement nylon gears I limit the motor amps to 75. The nylon gears will tend to explode beyond 100 phase amps. So I am surprised yours being set to 120 has not damaged them to be honest. Lol I would lower the motor amps for sure. I wonder if your gears are nylon / steel hybrid gears?? Your motor might not have the same number of motor poles or internal gearing ratio that mine does. In my case my motor has 20 magnets (poles) on the rotor , and the internal gearing is 5:1 so i use 20 * 5 or 100 “effective’ motor poles for my VESC motor setup. If your motor has a rotor with a different number of magnets, or a different gearing ratio, then the Motor Poles you would want to use during motor setup with your motor would be different. It will always studder in sensorless to some extent. I have used it in Hall Sensor mode previously and it does help with resolving that studder. But after I broke my hall sensors the sensorless works really well with VESC and I don’t really feel the need to use hall sensors in my case. Even riding on a mountain bike trail it was only a problem when climbing and the bike would almost come to a stop. But even with hall sensors if you are crawling slowly up a hill, the hall sensors can have a studdering problem also. I wonder if the clutch in your motor is old and sticking or something?? Have you ever opened your motor?? You might want to verify the # of magnets and internal gearing, it could use different size gears than my motor and would require different numbers during setup. I think theres also a startup current boost or something some where, but it has never helped fix cogging / studdering for me
There is a bug in that new firmware, found info online but can't post link here ...surfdado Seems you have to change under foc advanced at the bottom of that page . 6.02 firmware = observer 6.05 firmware = corrected position Personally I loaded the older ver 6.02 75300 R2 no limit that is the original and my saved motor config and got back my nice running bike .. Don't care what bs errors the app says even if it's the Sky is falling it's staying put ! Wasted hours with 6.05 and never got it 100% good .
@@MadTrax-s5d what problem were you having with 6.05 ? It seems fine on my hub motor But the MTPA + Field Weakening i am still trying to sort out, there’s some kind of mystery. The vesc patch notes say something about limiting current when using mtpa + field weakening. And i am trying mxv observer. Would be curious to know what your specific problem was?
@@EBikeBuilder_ Could not get it to give any start up torque, would jerk and hum . When it accelerated at a certain point would go rough and noisy like a bad sensor . Old setup had no problem giving full torque from standstill and very smooth . Tried a lot but never had good results .
@@EBikeBuilder_ Large outrunner motor just different wheel and seems like same problem . Anyways all good now . Oh, and the 75300 R5 not unlimited version did not work properly either so could be that Flipsky is not fully compatible with the open source 75100 v2 and that is why it ships with that 75300 one ?
You mentioned getting a 3d printer, check out what @JansBlog_official did to enclose his Flipsky: ua-cam.com/video/3UCmBSAJZ4g/v-deo.html He set it up so that the 'fins' of the flipsky aluminum housing are facing outward and in the airflow. Having said that, I believe he is no longer a fan of the flipsky.
@@NoInfoFound i ended up cutting a big flipsky-shaped hole in the back of my gopro box 😂 so it can go directly against the seat tube. Then i did a ton of gorilla waterproof caulk and seal 😂😂 And it stayed 45C max today. It doesnt seem to need much airflow when touching the bike frame directly and can bridge the heat some where else. I think flipskys all sorted out. Yeah jans blog says the other vesc controller is better , But iunno , i haven’t had a problem with flipsky yet 🤷 6.05 seems ok on my g62 with 21s
@@EBikeBuilder_ Yeah in my case i have a rectangular void in my aluminum bike frame big enough for the 75100 V2 where I bolted the 'fins' side of the flipsky to the inside with thermal compound - there is a small amount of airflow though the frame. The max i've seen was 44.5C T FET Max so far - but only with 416W Power Avg / 2675.3W Power Max.
@@NoInfoFound yeah I did that and I sealed up the entire esc with silicone so that it’s fully waterproof and it was. It was the best setup for heatdissipation you can imagine but like you have mentioned I’m not longer a fan of Flipsky as all 3 of my 75200 died for no reason, 1 of them almost burned my house down.
A heatsink on Amazon is like $15 and some thermal transfer paste like they use for CPUs when building a computer system will help.
@@asian_raisin I’ve made further changes today , cut a hole in my controller box for the flipsky to poke out, so flipsky is directly touching the seat tube, and it barely goes above 40C , i think flipsky just needs to be attached to the frame and overheating shoukdnt be a problem. I water proof caulk and sealed it from the inside 😂😂 i think we are ready for winter ☃️🏂❄️⛄️🏂❄️
I ordered the 75200 pro v2 just updating my ebike controller on my hiboy p6. Want something a bit more efficient and tuneable. I'm only running 48v still but that's enough for me right now going 20 on a bike is kinda nuts. Might step up to 60v one day but I just like tunning stuff and learning new things.
@@redline3036 careful with the flipsky 200 on the hub motor, id set the battery current max similar to your existing controller, and keep the motor current max (phase amps) 60 to 75 - too much motor current can break nylon gears. (When i increased my motor current to 105 it was a nylon gear grinder. 🙃)
@EBikeBuilder_ it's a pretty tame system stock, not going crazy and I def will watch the gears. I'll do some research I was thinking of keeping the stock setup and adding a front motor with the Flipsky not sure yet gotta keep thinking about it and figure out what I'm doing still.
Well 👍! Installed a controller on painted aluminum stock & don't know if that matters as a heat sink. My guess was yes it does but the guy wouldn't sand in down to bare metal. Your bike frame is painted though isn't it? My 2 Mars ebikes have a compartment for the controller below the seat tube & the Flipsky fits perfectly flat on the bare aluminum frame inside the compartment. So you proved the theory correct. E Cells Ebikes is potting their controllers & mounting them to the back of the seat tube to help cool them. What is Discord? An App? A few people in my CSR2 crew wanted to use it as many crews did to talk w/o using the censored Crew Chat in the game.
@@stevecumming6427 best way for sure is to stick the flipsky flat against the bike frame. I cut a flipsky-shaped hole in my controller box and did that today. With back of the flipsky sticking out of the box against the seat tube. And the flipsky doesnt go above 40 or 45C so that solved it. I think hooking it to your frame cools it enough so it can work ok inside a compartment without airflow. Discord is a chat thing I’m not a big chatter But its an alternative way to DM people also. It has voice chat
I swore the g62 was a 7T. Thanks for the information
@@nicod974 grin tech g62 is 6.5t and bafang usually does 6t , both my g62 and g60 are 6T. but now bafang seems to do rm.g063.1000w with 5.5T , and i have an FM g61.1000w with 5.5T
@@EBikeBuilder_how can one know the turns number?? only by looking inside?? or can you "measure" it somehow ( measure rpm freewheeling and measure voltage) ???
I'm having the same problem with the wiring I've ordered some WAGO 12-24 AWG connectors worth a try I guess, take care
@@robo3142i think the flipsky wires need extra heat shrink tubing, pushed up into the enclosure, as part Of the install .. The insulation on the flipsky wires is a soft silicone rips very easy and also potentially wires can short out to the aluminum case itself
You’ll need an heatsink that dissipates the heat outside with an 8-12 W/MK thermalpaste
@@JansBlog_official i cut a flipsky-shaped hole in my controller box. And changed it so the flipsky is directly zip tied to the bike seattube. And it didn’t go higher than 45C today
@@EBikeBuilder_I saw 80C that’s just way too hot
I've seen must of your Vesc videos hoping to figure out my issues with my geared hub motor. I keep having
studdering when accelerating from stop or when I coast for a little and then hit then give it immediate throttle. I was thinking it was because I was running sensor less and planned on getting it all connected again to see if it fixed my issue. But you are running sensorless on the bafang without any issues??
@@naterivera1 mine studders slightly from a stop, but can be avoided by pedaling. The sensorless works quite well. I don’t have any studder while moving. You could try to increase the open loop ERPM , or maybe go into ADC throttle settings and increase the positive ramping time, there’s different FOC observers and advanced settings . But out of the box sensorless has always worked well for me. On my hub motors. What motor are you using??
@@EBikeBuilder_ Thanks for the reply. I am using a 48v500w geared hub that came with my Hurley mini swell. My main goal is increasing the torque. I initiallly setup a FSESC 4.12(max 57v) which is one of the earlier vesc with 48v and work great with twice the torque, apart from the start studder which I dont mind pedaling for a second. Stock controller wouldnt work unless you were above 3 mph. Wanted to get a little more torque using a larger 52v battery and flipsky 75100 v2. I get a bit more studders at the beggining and as well when I jam the throttle after coasting. Did yours run smoother at all when you used the hall sensor? I do have my motor amps up to like 120, so maybe turn that down a little. Also, did you happen to change you the wiring to the hub motor to thicker gauge? Saw some people do that to push their motors more since supposedly thats on of the points of failiure when pushing motors more then they are rated.
@@naterivera1 if its a typical geared hub with nylon gears i would recommend 75 motor amps to be safe. The bafang official gears i have used 90 motor amps without problems. But when using AliExpress 7$ replacement nylon gears I limit the motor amps to 75. The nylon gears will tend to explode beyond 100 phase amps. So I am surprised yours being set to 120 has not damaged them to be honest. Lol I would lower the motor amps for sure. I wonder if your gears are nylon / steel hybrid gears?? Your motor might not have the same number of motor poles or internal gearing ratio that mine does. In my case my motor has 20 magnets (poles) on the rotor , and the internal gearing is 5:1 so i use 20 * 5 or 100 “effective’ motor poles for my VESC motor setup. If your motor has a rotor with a different number of magnets, or a different gearing ratio, then the Motor Poles you would want to use during motor setup with your motor would be different. It will always studder in sensorless to some extent. I have used it in Hall Sensor mode previously and it does help with resolving that studder. But after I broke my hall sensors the sensorless works really well with VESC and I don’t really feel the need to use hall sensors in my case. Even riding on a mountain bike trail it was only a problem when climbing and the bike would almost come to a stop. But even with hall sensors if you are crawling slowly up a hill, the hall sensors can have a studdering problem also. I wonder if the clutch in your motor is old and sticking or something?? Have you ever opened your motor?? You might want to verify the # of magnets and internal gearing, it could use different size gears than my motor and would require different numbers during setup. I think theres also a startup current boost or something some where, but it has never helped fix cogging / studdering for me
There is a bug in that new firmware, found info online but can't post link here ...surfdado
Seems you have to change under foc advanced at the bottom of that page .
6.02 firmware = observer
6.05 firmware = corrected position
Personally I loaded the older ver 6.02 75300 R2 no limit that is the original and my saved motor
config and got back my nice running bike ..
Don't care what bs errors the app says even if it's the Sky is falling it's staying put !
Wasted hours with 6.05 and never got it 100% good .
@@MadTrax-s5d what problem were you having with 6.05 ? It seems fine on my hub motor But the MTPA + Field Weakening i am still trying to sort out, there’s some kind of mystery. The vesc patch notes say something about limiting current when using mtpa + field weakening. And i am trying mxv observer. Would be curious to know what your specific problem was?
@@MadTrax-s5d i saw that post from surfado But i think they are using balance boards / one wheels / EUC
@@EBikeBuilder_ Could not get it to give any start up torque, would jerk and hum .
When it accelerated at a certain point would go rough and noisy like a bad sensor .
Old setup had no problem giving full torque from standstill and very smooth .
Tried a lot but never had good results .
@@EBikeBuilder_ Large outrunner motor just different wheel and seems like same problem .
Anyways all good now .
Oh, and the 75300 R5 not unlimited version did not work properly either so could
be that Flipsky is not fully compatible with the open source 75100 v2 and that is why it
ships with that 75300 one ?
You mentioned getting a 3d printer, check out what @JansBlog_official did to enclose his Flipsky: ua-cam.com/video/3UCmBSAJZ4g/v-deo.html
He set it up so that the 'fins' of the flipsky aluminum housing are facing outward and in the airflow.
Having said that, I believe he is no longer a fan of the flipsky.
@@NoInfoFound i ended up cutting a big flipsky-shaped hole in the back of my gopro box 😂 so it can go directly against the seat tube. Then i did a ton of gorilla waterproof caulk and seal 😂😂 And it stayed 45C max today. It doesnt seem to need much airflow when touching the bike frame directly and can bridge the heat some where else. I think flipskys all sorted out. Yeah jans blog says the other vesc controller is better , But iunno , i haven’t had a problem with flipsky yet 🤷 6.05 seems ok on my g62 with 21s
@@EBikeBuilder_ Yeah in my case i have a rectangular void in my aluminum bike frame big enough for the 75100 V2 where I bolted the 'fins' side of the flipsky to the inside with thermal compound - there is a small amount of airflow though the frame. The max i've seen was 44.5C T FET Max so far - but only with 416W Power Avg / 2675.3W Power Max.
@@NoInfoFound yeah I did that and I sealed up the entire esc with silicone so that it’s fully waterproof and it was. It was the best setup for heatdissipation you can imagine but like you have mentioned I’m not longer a fan of Flipsky as all 3 of my 75200 died for no reason, 1 of them almost burned my house down.