Glad you film the real world problems you run into instead of just skipping the filming of the problems an going to after the problem is solved. This helps the DIY that doesnt possess every tool under the sun. Thank you for your effort
You're very welcome. It's great to hear you appreciate our method of making videos. You're right that it is important to share the problems and workarounds so people can learn and have an easier time with the job. Thanks for the comment. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Tim If you don't have a press, but do have a bearing splitter kit like the one you have you can remove the bushings with it. Just bend back the old bushing outer flange like you did in the video and connect the bearing splitter with the screw in side bar adapters. With a impact socket between the puller and the bushing you should be able to press it out after heating the area up. With this method you also have a less chance of bending the arms as you could with a jack between the arms.
Just in time! Haha I started the job using your first LCA video, then discovered my cam sleeves were seized. Thought “now what...” then you uploaded this video! 😁👌 On my way to Lowes for some Diablos, new cam sleeves are on the way... thanks Tim
Definitely another great video. Looking forward to what u all do next. 👍 I'm actually going to change out the bushings on my lower control arms during the summer as soon as the kids go on vacation.
Thanks for the vid! I got the white line bushings and my sleeves are seized! I have a trip to Utah next week and I’m kinda stressing now. I believe I saw you a while back driving on 101 by Salinas, anyways thanks again from the info 👍🏻
In case anyone runs into the issue of finding something to fit the backside of control arm to press in the new bushings…. I was able to use an old brake caliper piston! I believe it was from a 98 camry, but I am sure the same piston is in lots of calipers. It fits perfectly around the outside edge of the control arm and has a perfect cavity to catch the protruding edge of the bushing, it is also about half the height of a press sleeve and allows for the whole assembly to fit into one of these HF presses. I guess not everyone has a random brake caliper piston laying around but it’s an easy thing to snag at pick and pull for less than $10 if you have one near by and I have actually found it very useful for several different press jobs I’ve found myself doing!!
K. I know a C.A. bushing trick. Ya don''t need to burn 'em. Don't need to press 'em. Try threading the blade from a manual hack saw thru the bushing's hole (preferably w/out the center sleeve). Then hook it back up to each end of the hack saw like normal... Saw thru the rubber (easy >20 seconds), then keep going and saw thru the outer metal sleeve (takes about 2 minutes). The gap made by the saw blade (it'll go "pop" when its thru the outer sleeve) is enough that the bushing will fall right out. JUST BE SURE NOT TO CUT INTO THE CONTROL ARM!
I've heard of people doing it this way but it didn't sound as easy as you described. I guess everyone's experience might be different. And, like you said, this has to be a fairly precise operation. If the blade isn't perfectly flat, it will be cutting one end of the sleeve quicker than the other and before you know it, you're sawing into your control arm which wouldn't be good. The bottle jack method has it's own issues with people using too much force and bending the control arms. I would say the hydraulic press method we show in this video is the safest way to do it.
@@TimmyTheToolmanJust another for your tool belt Timmy. For those that don't have a clamshell or even a press this is gold. Like for instance, Baja or deep BFE somewhere. Another cool trick is the Conical bearing race removal trick. Where you weld a bead around the circumference of the inside of the race's (or inside a bushings OD) and the heat pulls the OD tighter together and it's likely to fall out on it's own. That one makes no sense in my mind but I've used it several times and it works too. Though that, like burning out the rubber, will anneal the C.A. a bit. Thanks for your content as always!
Anthony Thorn Ok, thanks for the tip. I was wondering which blades to buy so I chose the ones for thicker metal thinking they would do better. The blades looked to be the same thickness so the finer tooth ones wouldn't fit any better between the bushing and the frame.
I installed new Beck/ Arnley lower control arms with new bushings (1) year ago. The bushings are already as soft as butter, and my tires are wearing unevenly. I got OEM bushings to press in the new LCA's, but while using the bottle jack method the control arms were bending too much, even with little force. Now i'm simply using new bushings in my old control arms. Buy once, cry once, and get quality parts the first time...
Hey Bryson, sounds like you learned a valuable lesson. I'm not opposed to using aftermarket parts for some applications like poly bushings for control arms but buying some complete replacement aftermarket parts can be risky. I definitely support aftermarket coilovers and springs but using cheap aftermarket control arms is a risk I wouldn't want to take. Good luck with the job.
How do you like that milwaukee M12 reciprocating. We are thinking of getting the combo pack that includes the older 3/8 ratchet, The saw and ratchet are the main reason for the purchase. Not needing them enough to spring for the newer brushless versions.
I like the reciprocating saw and the ratchet. With the saw, it will get hot if you cut for a long time like I had to do in this video. I gave the saw a couple breaks so I wouldn't overheat it. The ratchet doesn't have any significant breaking free force. For fasteners that are small and aren't too tight, I'll use the M12 ratchet just like any ratchet and physically twist the handle to break free a bolt or nut and then use the trigger to spin it off. For fasteners that are larger and tighter, I'll first break free the bolt or nut with a conventional ratchet and then switch to the Milwaukee to zip it off. I've gotten the most use out of the ratchet. I use it for almost every job.
At 4:15 couldn't you use a bottle jack or something to keep weight on it? That lca is floppy all over the place! I'd almost try attaching the shock or passing a wedge in the frame. No wonder guy's are burning through blades in the forums. Great part 1 and 2 video's. I'm doing this repair next weekend in the colorado snow!😉
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks again for the write up Tim! Went great today only took 5hrs by myself. I only had to cut out the passenger side. I did end up using an impact socket jammed between the frame and backside of the lca to keep it stable while cutting. Thanks again!
You would have to squeeze the control arms in a press carefully and bend it back. If you don't have a press, you would have to get the arms between 2 immovable or VERY heavy objects and use the bottle jack to apply force to bend the arm back in.
Hi Tim I'm working on this job and I'm about to the point of reinstalling the bushings and other parts. I did have a question. What are your thoughts on applying some sort of lubricant (anti seize, axle grease or silicone paste) to the Bushings, Cam Adjusters and bolts to keep down rust and corrosion? My experience was similar to yours with the driver side adjusters and bolts coming out fairly easily but the passenger side had to be cut out. Without your videos I would have never attempted this job. Thanks again! I sure wish you lived closer. Hopefully next time you come to Atlanta we can meet up.
We would recommend anti-seize to the bolts and cam adjusters but not inside the control arm sleeve where the bushings get installed. If you’re installing Poly bushings, then you can use soap to help them get pressed into place, but don’t use any lube where the bushing interfaces with the control arm. If the bushings have metal sleeves around them like the OEM ones do, then a little anti seize or lube could help the installation. We are stoked this video and others are helping you get stuff done on your rig! That’s awesome news. - Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Let me ask one more thing. What are your thoughts on a layer of Fluid Film on the bushings? Its not used that much but the DOT does salt the roads from time to time. The old bushings were pretty rusty/ crusty and the new ones are OEM.
'04 Tacoma prerunner here. Thought I had chased down the front end left side dip/speed bump "pop" to LCA bushings and did this procedure. Still popping, rides a lot smoother though. It's got new-ish LBJ's and UBJ's (OEM... maybe 10k on the set). The TRE's feel solid (MOOG's), sway bar bushings and links are fine. Took out the shock (Bilstein w/ 10k on 'em), ran through the entire suspension motion and couldn't replicate the pop sound. Happens frequently while driving or while jacking up the front end to work on it. It definitely makes me nervous of a LBJ failure, but there's zero play in those and they're fairly new. Any ideas? Did you grease the cam bolts before assembling? (I did not)
I have used grease and anti-seize on the bolts but I don't think it's all that necessary. I haven't seen the bolts get rusted in place. It's the cam sleeves that get rusted into the bushing sleeve so I apply a liberal amount of anti-seize on those. Maybe the popping is coming from the UCA bushings but I would think if they had that much play in them you'd be having steering and tracking issues. Have you inspected your motor mounts?
Yes, the engine mounts are maybe slightly worn, they have flex similar to the ones you demonstrated in the mount replacement video-- nearly looked identical to the new mount flex... I've obtained OEM outer TRE's to replace those Moogs-- those greasable joints don't have a grease vent so the boot just expands (until someone pumps them too full) plus I'd rather have the OE stuff in there. If the popping doesn't stop, next step is UCA bushings (which are the same part number 48632-35080 for prerunners as in your video for the 4x4 or runners, correct?)
just wanted to add a quick note that the prerunner part cited in these comments in incorrect so nobody else makes the mistake (ask me how i found out...) Camelback is saying Toyota doesn't make an UCA bushing for the prerunner-- it only sells the complete control arm.
About how long did you heat the control arm? I'm using the bushing removal tool from a kit which is a long bolt with nuts on each end. You use it the same way you use the press except the bolt goes through the bushing and the nuts on each end capture the cups. You then tighten one of the end nuts (they have washers with ball bearings between them so it's easy to turn with a wrench) and it forces the bushing out. I used this technique when I replaced the upper control arm bushings and it worked great. I didn't have to use heat and I didn't have to worry about the bushing becoming a projectile. I'm thinking the lower bushings will not be as easy as the uppers so I'm planning to use the torch to heat the arm. I'm going to tighten the nuts pretty tight then apply the heat the same way you did in your upper control arm video and hope the bushing breaks free. My inner and outer tie rods are on back-order so instead of unbolting the steering rack I'm going to take the inner and outer tie rod off as a single piece using my 42mm crows foot I ground down to fit the inner tie rod. If not for your video on replacing the inner and outer tie rods I would have been in a pickle when I got around to replacing my tie rods. Thanks to you I was forewarned about the clearance issue.
I'd say I heated up the LCA arm for at least 30 - 45 seconds. Try 30 seconds and see if the bushing pops. If it doesn't apply a little more force and see if you get any give from the bushing. If not, apply more heat. You are not getting the arm glowing red hot. Heat the arm up evenly with the torch on every attempt to free the bushing. Great to hear you're finding our videos informative and helpful. Good luck with the job.
Great videos and tips. I had one cam adjuster and one bushing that required the special treatment. Those saws-all blades are fantastic! l Looking forward to all new steering/ride!
Wow, even on the West coast you have some corrosion issues! Very nice work around plus heat made the job go smoothly. Was that a bottle of Ale on your bench at the end brother Tim?
Yeah, I was a little shocked I had frozen cam adjusters. I think the original owner of the truck must have done trips up to the snow. I don't have any appreciable rust other than on the rear bumper though. Working on it, I can tell it's been off-roaded at least a few times because there's been plenty of dried mud that's fallen in my face from various places. Yes Brother Jake, for Sean and I, wrenching and beer go hand and hand. Maybe not so much during the job, but definitely after the job.
Going to be doing this on my truck, but thinking it would be easier to just replace the entire lower control arm - seems like an easier process. Are you changing the bushings out just to save some money?
Hey Zach, yes, the reason why you replace just the bushings is because it's a significant money savings. If you're going to do the work yourself pulling the arms, why not take it one step further and replace the bushings? It's not that hard.
Great videos. They've helped me service the front end on my Tacoma. I'm thinking of buying that Press and Pull Sleeve kit you use. I see that the press adapter cups come in various diameters, but how long are they?
Glad you like the videos. If you are going to do press work, having that press sleeve kit is invaluable. I have used that kit tons of times. Those sleeves are all around the same length. I don't have them in front of me to measure but I'd say around 4 inches. The Harbor Freight 20 ton press, that press sleeve kit, some bearing splitters and some various press plates will allow you to do quite a bit.
Could OTC 4518 Puller/Bearing Separator 5-Ton be used vs. the OTC 4517 7-Ton you use in this video? Looking at buying a set but was leaning towards 4518 to which I can use with timing belt project coming up.
I'm pretty sure I remember trying the 5 ton bearing splitter and it wasn't going to work. The larger 7 ton bearing splitter fits on the control arm better.
i have a bottle jack but not a vice… do you think i would need one or could i just put the bottle jack between the loose control arm with some heat and press it out? im currently doing a inner / outer tie rod job with steering rack + sway bar bushings and would prefer not to take everything apart again…
@@ogfaIlen You're very welcome. Good luck with the job. Just err on the side of using not enough force with the jack at first. You don't want to go overboard and bend your arms. Load the bushing with some pressure but not a ton at first. Heat up the arm and hopefully you'll see the bushing give way. If the bushing doesn't give, apply a little more force and see if you get the bushing to budge. If still no movement, use more heat. The straightness of the jack between the two arms makes a difference too. You want the force pushing as perfectly in line with the bushing as possible. A little angle makes it harder to get the bushing free.
Sort of a pain in butt to cut them out isn't? There have been many people who have complained that the alignment shop they brought their rig to wasn't able to get the alignment dialed in. It was most likely due to a frozen cam adjuster. If the cam adjuster is frozen into the bushings sleeve, it won't move the control arm when the alignment tech tries to manipulate it.
It would be awesome if you could give the job a score on how much improvement it has made before/after. Do the LCA bushings make a big difference, if they are shot? I recently replaced all 4 shocks and rear upper/lower link bushings, and it rides great. Now I am considering doing all front UCA/LCA bushings as well. Thanks again for the videos!
Well, it would make a difference a couple different ways. #1) if your bushings were wasted and caused play in the front end or maybe a vibration, you would notice the improvement. #2) if you went to get an alignment and your cam adjusters were frozen into the bushing sleeve, replacing the bushings and frozen cam adjusters would allow the alignment tech to align your rig properly, especially after a lift and there's no choice but to get a new alignment done. If you bushings were still in decent shape and not preventing you from getting an accurate alignment done, you probably wouldn't experience any detectable benefit.
In Part 1 where the decision was made to replace the cam adjusters, the quick shop move would have been instead of futzing with getting them to get them out would have been faster from the get-go to just cut them.
Well, it they're not stuck, why cut them out? I've cut these cam adjusters out and it's not quick. If they slide out, slide them out. I don't understand your logic here.
what size sleeve did you use to press the bushing in? i tried using the channel lock method but it was bending the outer rim of the bushing when i was trying to press them in with the vise
I don't remember the size of the sleeve. Those bushings shouldn't require a whole lot of force to go in. Did you clean up the arm really well before trying to press it in? Also, did you use some grease to help with the insertion?
@@TimmyTheToolman i used steel wool to clean the inside. I did not lube it up. I also think i need to go up one size on channel locks. Ill try that and report back. thanks
@@TimmyTheToolman well i got it. I used a large socket. The channellock method was bending the outer rim of the bushing. Steel wool and grease helped a lot. Thank you for the help.
Open the video description by clicking on "Show More". It will expand out and you'll be able to see the list of tools we used for this job. The press sleeve kit is linked in the tool list.
@@TimmyTheToolmanhello, thanks for advice. Can't afford it though at about £100pricetag. I was looking for confirmation regarding those front lower arm bushings orientation. Not 100% sure which way to fit them bloody things. Could you kindly help me, please? I've got 98 prado, same as Tacoma pretty much.
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi, I've got genuine ones. Don't want to srew it. Also just noticed the steering rack has some slack that the back spring loaded adjuster can't help Grrrrr :) ...There is no place like garage
@@skoda110 Before pressing out the old bushings, you can pay attention to the way they were pressed into the arms and mimmic that for the reinsertion of the new ones. I know the OEM bushings are position specific on each arm. There's one that's meant to go on the front of the arm and one that's meant to go on the rear of the arm. Here's an online version of the factory service manual: drive.google.com/file/d/0B4-QOr310iQRYjY5MDQ0NjgtOTc5Ni00YzZhLTk4NjUtYjk1Y2ZiNjMxMTFk/view?ddrp=1&hl=en Looking up the part numbers for the OEM bushings you bought, you should be able to figure out which one is suppose to go on the front and which one is suppose to go on the back because you should have gotten two different part numbers.
ZuluComander Don't Stress Zulu Commander. Steel is a metal that can flex somewhat without creating a permanent bend or deformation. When I've used the bottle jack, I've seen some movement in the arms. You just don't want to go crazy with the amount of force applied with the bottle jack to cause a permanent deformation. If your LCAs fit back into frame mounts they attach to, you're good. The people who damaged their LCAs used way too much force. You're suppose the load up the bushing with a moderate amount of force and then use some heat to loosen the bushing from the LCA.
@@fatdudefoshizzle Yes, I would. A moderate amount of heat isn't going to change the strength of the steel so I think it's safe to apply some heat to help break free the bushing from the control arm.
One more tip. Do not just press them in any which way. Besides knowing which is the out side and inside edges, you also need to mark the proper position of the bushings before removing so that you can install them in that same position. You see, oem bushing are designed to dampen correctly only when installed correctly (and last much longer too). Look at the inside of your bushings, you will notice that they are not just completely filled with "rubber". They have a design to them. NOW, BEFORE pressing them out mark the control arm so that you can press the new ones in with the dampening design correctly in place in regards to the control arm. Lastly, when installing the control arms always tighten them at a neutral position by leaving them slightly loose, lowering the vehicle so that they are loaded or have the weight of the vehicle on them and then tighten them. This way your bushings are not under stress and won't be ripped apart by the up and down movement of the suspension. This is even more important when installing rear bushings. Following these tips and installing your bushings correctly will make them perform much better and last much longer.
Hey John, you are absolutely correct if somebody is using OEM replacement bushings. If you're using aftermarket bushings like Whiteline poly bushings, you don't need to take the precautions you mention. The bushings are all the same and don't have one that's meant for the front of the arm, rear of the arm and it doesn't matter how you press them in. You also give good tips about tightening control arms. You want the weight of the vehicle on the wheels before tightening the control arms to spec so the control arms will be in their normal travel path and the bushings won't be bound up with the vehicle just sitting static. In Part 1, I mention this tip in a pinned comment because I forgot to mention it in the video. Also, people need to get an alignment after this job so just know that even if somebody tightened up the control arms before lowering it to the ground, the alignment tech is going to loosen all these cam bolts anyway to do the alignment.
Hey Timmy, Great videos man. Always enjoy them. Yup you are correct about the alignment shop. You will be surprised how many blank stares I get when I bring up topics like these at the corner alignment shops. I've had to get my hand dirty a few times to make sure my work comes out right when dealing with alignment techs.
Glad you like the video. Sure it would be easier effort wise but not easier on your wallet. One lower control arm is $200 so a pair would be $400. A set of Whiteline bushings is $63. If you found a cam sleeve rusted into the bushing like I did on my rig, you would still need to cut it out to install the new arm. You also have to do all the same labor to just replace the arms with the exception of pressing out the old bushings and pressing in the new bushings. So, you have to ask yourself, is the time it takes to replace the bushings worth $340. I think it is.
if you look careful there are a hole in each of those arms on the side where the bushing goes , they are for a reason to attract the water and rust those bushings to the lower control arm - no joke, then people are using all options to replace those bushings and using all force to get them out and sometimes they do successive, but you are not realizing that you already have damaged lower control arm even you think you got the bushing out as you removed .03 mm of that welded metal, so the new bushings will not sit there well I know that 100%, so I strongly suggests to bite the bullet and pay $400 each OEM and spear yourself a time and miseries of removing them. well it is not exactly $400 as they come complete with bushing and ball join that you are spending for your new ones , so 555 ball join $70 each and good quality bushings are $200 a set so do the formula $400 - $270 = $130, for $130 not worth as new OEM part will last you 20+ years.
Well, everyone has their opinions and you gave yours. I don't agree with you and a whole host of others that have successfully replaced their bushings don't agree with you either. Why spend $800 on a set of arms when all you need to do is replace the bushings. Right now you can buy a full set of Whiteline Poly Bushings for this repair on Amazon for $71. Some people don't need the LBJs because they've already replaced them. So, $800 compared to $71 is more than worth my time to replace the bushings.
Yes. As long as your compressor can run the air hammer properly. I have a bushing job today. I'll use this technique and see if I can get some video of it for you.
@@TimmyTheToolman I found this video using an air hammer to get the bushing out might try this when i remove mine. ua-cam.com/video/6Fnxw-a0qgQ/v-deo.html
Not too much faster. You still have to remove the old control arms, right? The only time you save is the removal and replacement of the bushings in the LCAs. The bushing removal isn't all that hard but it does take a little time. Two new arms will run you around $400 and a set of Whiteline bushings will run you $63. I guess you have to ask yourself if $340 is worth your time to swap out the bushings.
Why do you always make your videos an hour long and in two or more parts? The same video could have been made in one 10 minute video.. just like all the others..
Well… we aren’t like all the others, so you’re welcome for providing as much info as possible for novice or beginners to be successful. Just hit that like button and keep watching our videos, because we both know, those other “10 minute” videos leave valuable info out of their videos. - Sean
Dude, please show me the 10 minute video that completely demonstrates what we show and the knowledge we share. I'll wait...... Yeah, that's what I thought. It doesn't exist. - Timmy
Dude there's other videos out there. Not everyone is competent like you are. Sometimes people are stuck in a pinch and this guy covers all basis. Skip the video to the parts you need as I do
Glad you film the real world problems you run into instead of just skipping the filming of the problems an going to after the problem is solved. This helps the DIY that doesnt possess every tool under the sun. Thank you for your effort
You're very welcome. It's great to hear you appreciate our method of making videos. You're right that it is important to share the problems and workarounds so people can learn and have an easier time with the job. Thanks for the comment. Happy Wrenching!
Hi Tim
If you don't have a press, but do have a bearing splitter kit like the one you have you can remove the bushings with it. Just bend back the old bushing outer flange like you did in the video and connect the bearing splitter with the screw in side bar adapters. With a impact socket between the puller and the bushing you should be able to press it out after heating the area up. With this method you also have a less chance of bending the arms as you could with a jack between the arms.
Thanks for sharing your technique.
Darryl, what puller are you referencing in your comment? In other words what are all the tools needed to use this method?
@@maw230230 Check out Part 1 and open the video description. All the tools used are listed and linked there.
Just in time! Haha I started the job using your first LCA video, then discovered my cam sleeves were seized. Thought “now what...” then you uploaded this video! 😁👌
On my way to Lowes for some Diablos, new cam sleeves are on the way... thanks Tim
You're welcome Jason. Good luck with the job.
Definitely another great video. Looking forward to what u all do next. 👍 I'm actually going to change out the bushings on my lower control arms during the summer as soon as the kids go on vacation.
Thanks Juan. Good luck with the job when you get around to doing it.
Timmy The Toolman - Thank u sir. 🍺👍
Thanks for the vid! I got the white line bushings and my sleeves are seized! I have a trip to Utah next week and I’m kinda stressing now. I believe I saw you a while back driving on 101 by Salinas, anyways thanks again from the info 👍🏻
I work in Salinas, but not for long. I'm retiring in a few weeks.
@@TimmyTheToolman congrats on retirement! That’s awesome, I live in Salinas, it would be nice to meet you one day man I enjoy watching your content 👍🏻
@@SLKR-ek9hj Come by Fire Station #2 Friday or Saturday. Laurel and Main.
Tip to remove the old bushings for those who don't have a bearing splitter.
Just cut the rim off of the old bushings, sleeve it and press it out.
Merci encore d'avoir réalisé cette deuxième partie
Our pleasure. You're very welcome.
In case anyone runs into the issue of finding something to fit the backside of control arm to press in the new bushings…. I was able to use an old brake caliper piston! I believe it was from a 98 camry, but I am sure the same piston is in lots of calipers. It fits perfectly around the outside edge of the control arm and has a perfect cavity to catch the protruding edge of the bushing, it is also about half the height of a press sleeve and allows for the whole assembly to fit into one of these HF presses. I guess not everyone has a random brake caliper piston laying around but it’s an easy thing to snag at pick and pull for less than $10 if you have one near by and I have actually found it very useful for several different press jobs I’ve found myself doing!!
Thanks for the tip. I always tell people press work is only limited by your imagination. There's tons of ways to accomplish press work.
K. I know a C.A. bushing trick. Ya don''t need to burn 'em. Don't need to press 'em. Try threading the blade from a manual hack saw thru the bushing's hole (preferably w/out the center sleeve). Then hook it back up to each end of the hack saw like normal... Saw thru the rubber (easy >20 seconds), then keep going and saw thru the outer metal sleeve (takes about 2 minutes). The gap made by the saw blade (it'll go "pop" when its thru the outer sleeve) is enough that the bushing will fall right out. JUST BE SURE NOT TO CUT INTO THE CONTROL ARM!
I've heard of people doing it this way but it didn't sound as easy as you described. I guess everyone's experience might be different. And, like you said, this has to be a fairly precise operation. If the blade isn't perfectly flat, it will be cutting one end of the sleeve quicker than the other and before you know it, you're sawing into your control arm which wouldn't be good. The bottle jack method has it's own issues with people using too much force and bending the control arms. I would say the hydraulic press method we show in this video is the safest way to do it.
@@TimmyTheToolmanJust another for your tool belt Timmy. For those that don't have a clamshell or even a press this is gold. Like for instance, Baja or deep BFE somewhere. Another cool trick is the Conical bearing race removal trick. Where you weld a bead around the circumference of the inside of the race's (or inside a bushings OD) and the heat pulls the OD tighter together and it's likely to fall out on it's own. That one makes no sense in my mind but I've used it several times and it works too. Though that, like burning out the rubber, will anneal the C.A. a bit. Thanks for your content as always!
@@sloppyoppie Yeah, more tricks are better than less for sure.
Great video as always!
Eric Krzyzanowski Thanks Eric. Glad u like the video.
Diablos for the win! Try using a finer tooth next time, it worked way better for me and cut like butter.
Anthony Thorn Ok, thanks for the tip. I was wondering which blades to buy so I chose the ones for thicker metal thinking they would do better. The blades looked to be the same thickness so the finer tooth ones wouldn't fit any better between the bushing and the frame.
I installed new Beck/ Arnley lower control arms with new bushings (1) year ago. The bushings are already as soft as butter, and my tires are wearing unevenly. I got OEM bushings to press in the new LCA's, but while using the bottle jack method the control arms were bending too much, even with little force. Now i'm simply using new bushings in my old control arms. Buy once, cry once, and get quality parts the first time...
Hey Bryson, sounds like you learned a valuable lesson. I'm not opposed to using aftermarket parts for some applications like poly bushings for control arms but buying some complete replacement aftermarket parts can be risky. I definitely support aftermarket coilovers and springs but using cheap aftermarket control arms is a risk I wouldn't want to take. Good luck with the job.
How do you like that milwaukee M12 reciprocating. We are thinking of getting the combo pack that includes the older 3/8 ratchet, The saw and ratchet are the main reason for the purchase. Not needing them enough to spring for the newer brushless versions.
I like the reciprocating saw and the ratchet. With the saw, it will get hot if you cut for a long time like I had to do in this video. I gave the saw a couple breaks so I wouldn't overheat it. The ratchet doesn't have any significant breaking free force. For fasteners that are small and aren't too tight, I'll use the M12 ratchet just like any ratchet and physically twist the handle to break free a bolt or nut and then use the trigger to spin it off. For fasteners that are larger and tighter, I'll first break free the bolt or nut with a conventional ratchet and then switch to the Milwaukee to zip it off. I've gotten the most use out of the ratchet. I use it for almost every job.
What pay for
At 4:15 couldn't you use a bottle jack or something to keep weight on it? That lca is floppy all over the place! I'd almost try attaching the shock or passing a wedge in the frame. No wonder guy's are burning through blades in the forums. Great part 1 and 2 video's. I'm doing this repair next weekend in the colorado snow!😉
Never tried it. Your ideas to stabilize the arm might work. Let us know if you try it.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks again for the write up Tim! Went great today only took 5hrs by myself. I only had to cut out the passenger side. I did end up using an impact socket jammed between the frame and backside of the lca to keep it stable while cutting. Thanks again!
@@rollingedges9469 Good job getting it done. That had to feel good. Thanks for sharing your success story with this job. Happy Wrenching!
Any way to salvage the control arm if the bottle jack method spread it out too much? It just needs to be squeezed about 3mm.
You would have to squeeze the control arms in a press carefully and bend it back. If you don't have a press, you would have to get the arms between 2 immovable or VERY heavy objects and use the bottle jack to apply force to bend the arm back in.
you can also get two 6x6 blocks stacked on top of each other it is tall enough for the control arm and you can press your bushings in or out
Good to know.
Hi Tim
I'm working on this job and I'm about to the point of reinstalling the bushings and other parts. I did have a question. What are your thoughts on applying some sort of lubricant (anti seize, axle grease or silicone paste) to the Bushings, Cam Adjusters and bolts to keep down rust and corrosion?
My experience was similar to yours with the driver side adjusters and bolts coming out fairly easily but the passenger side had to be cut out.
Without your videos I would have never attempted this job. Thanks again!
I sure wish you lived closer. Hopefully next time you come to Atlanta we can meet up.
We would recommend anti-seize to the bolts and cam adjusters but not inside the control arm sleeve where the bushings get installed. If you’re installing Poly bushings, then you can use soap to help them get pressed into place, but don’t use any lube where the bushing interfaces with the control arm. If the bushings have metal sleeves around them like the OEM ones do, then a little anti seize or lube could help the installation. We are stoked this video and others are helping you get stuff done on your rig! That’s awesome news.
- Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Thank you Sean
@@TimmyTheToolman Let me ask one more thing. What are your thoughts on a layer of Fluid Film on the bushings? Its not used that much but the DOT does salt the roads from time to time. The old bushings were pretty rusty/ crusty and the new ones are OEM.
@@gbrianmullinax8448 I'd just put anti-sieze on the metal bushing sleeve, press them in, and call it a day.
@@TimmyTheToolman Thanks so much!!
'04 Tacoma prerunner here. Thought I had chased down the front end left side dip/speed bump "pop" to LCA bushings and did this procedure. Still popping, rides a lot smoother though. It's got new-ish LBJ's and UBJ's (OEM... maybe 10k on the set). The TRE's feel solid (MOOG's), sway bar bushings and links are fine. Took out the shock (Bilstein w/ 10k on 'em), ran through the entire suspension motion and couldn't replicate the pop sound. Happens frequently while driving or while jacking up the front end to work on it. It definitely makes me nervous of a LBJ failure, but there's zero play in those and they're fairly new. Any ideas? Did you grease the cam bolts before assembling? (I did not)
I have used grease and anti-seize on the bolts but I don't think it's all that necessary. I haven't seen the bolts get rusted in place. It's the cam sleeves that get rusted into the bushing sleeve so I apply a liberal amount of anti-seize on those.
Maybe the popping is coming from the UCA bushings but I would think if they had that much play in them you'd be having steering and tracking issues. Have you inspected your motor mounts?
Yes, the engine mounts are maybe slightly worn, they have flex similar to the ones you demonstrated in the mount replacement video-- nearly looked identical to the new mount flex... I've obtained OEM outer TRE's to replace those Moogs-- those greasable joints don't have a grease vent so the boot just expands (until someone pumps them too full) plus I'd rather have the OE stuff in there. If the popping doesn't stop, next step is UCA bushings (which are the same part number 48632-35080 for prerunners as in your video for the 4x4 or runners, correct?)
They should be the same part number but I'd look it up on an online parts seller website like Camelback Toyota and just double check.
yeah, just did. The prerunner ends in 070, not 080. Strange, but I'll go w/ it. Thanks!
just wanted to add a quick note that the prerunner part cited in these comments in incorrect so nobody else makes the mistake (ask me how i found out...) Camelback is saying Toyota doesn't make an UCA bushing for the prerunner-- it only sells the complete control arm.
About how long did you heat the control arm? I'm using the bushing removal tool from a kit which is a long bolt with nuts on each end. You use it the same way you use the press except the bolt goes through the bushing and the nuts on each end capture the cups. You then tighten one of the end nuts (they have washers with ball bearings between them so it's easy to turn with a wrench) and it forces the bushing out. I used this technique when I replaced the upper control arm bushings and it worked great. I didn't have to use heat and I didn't have to worry about the bushing becoming a projectile. I'm thinking the lower bushings will not be as easy as the uppers so I'm planning to use the torch to heat the arm. I'm going to tighten the nuts pretty tight then apply the heat the same way you did in your upper control arm video and hope the bushing breaks free. My inner and outer tie rods are on back-order so instead of unbolting the steering rack I'm going to take the inner and outer tie rod off as a single piece using my 42mm crows foot I ground down to fit the inner tie rod. If not for your video on replacing the inner and outer tie rods I would have been in a pickle when I got around to replacing my tie rods. Thanks to you I was forewarned about the clearance issue.
I'd say I heated up the LCA arm for at least 30 - 45 seconds. Try 30 seconds and see if the bushing pops. If it doesn't apply a little more force and see if you get any give from the bushing. If not, apply more heat. You are not getting the arm glowing red hot. Heat the arm up evenly with the torch on every attempt to free the bushing.
Great to hear you're finding our videos informative and helpful. Good luck with the job.
Ok
Great videos and tips. I had one cam adjuster and one bushing that required the special treatment. Those saws-all blades are fantastic!
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Looking forward to all new steering/ride!
Thanks Tim. Glad you like the videos. Good job getting the job done. Happy Wrenching!
Wow, even on the West coast you have some corrosion issues! Very nice work around plus heat made the job go smoothly. Was that a bottle of Ale on your bench at the end brother Tim?
Yeah, I was a little shocked I had frozen cam adjusters. I think the original owner of the truck must have done trips up to the snow. I don't have any appreciable rust other than on the rear bumper though. Working on it, I can tell it's been off-roaded at least a few times because there's been plenty of dried mud that's fallen in my face from various places.
Yes Brother Jake, for Sean and I, wrenching and beer go hand and hand. Maybe not so much during the job, but definitely after the job.
Timmy The Toolman I love trying different kinds of beer, so what's the name of that one?
I'm pretty sure that one was called Flying Pig. Can't remember the brewery. Sean got them.
Going to be doing this on my truck, but thinking it would be easier to just replace the entire lower control arm - seems like an easier process. Are you changing the bushings out just to save some money?
Hey Zach, yes, the reason why you replace just the bushings is because it's a significant money savings. If you're going to do the work yourself pulling the arms, why not take it one step further and replace the bushings? It's not that hard.
I started replace my on my truck. Was watching videos was a joke
Great videos. They've helped me service the front end on my Tacoma. I'm thinking of buying that Press and Pull Sleeve kit you use. I see that the press adapter cups come in various diameters, but how long are they?
Glad you like the videos. If you are going to do press work, having that press sleeve kit is invaluable. I have used that kit tons of times. Those sleeves are all around the same length. I don't have them in front of me to measure but I'd say around 4 inches. The Harbor Freight 20 ton press, that press sleeve kit, some bearing splitters and some various press plates will allow you to do quite a bit.
Could OTC 4518 Puller/Bearing Separator 5-Ton be used vs. the OTC 4517 7-Ton you use in this video? Looking at buying a set but was leaning towards 4518 to which I can use with timing belt project coming up.
I'm pretty sure I remember trying the 5 ton bearing splitter and it wasn't going to work. The larger 7 ton bearing splitter fits on the control arm better.
i have a bottle jack but not a vice… do you think i would need one or could i just put the bottle jack between the loose control arm with some heat and press it out? im currently doing a inner / outer tie rod job with steering rack + sway bar bushings and would prefer not to take everything apart again…
Guys have done it without a vice.
@@TimmyTheToolman thank you for the great videos and the super quick reply - my car would be a different car without your videos… cheers!
@@ogfaIlen You're very welcome. Good luck with the job. Just err on the side of using not enough force with the jack at first. You don't want to go overboard and bend your arms. Load the bushing with some pressure but not a ton at first. Heat up the arm and hopefully you'll see the bushing give way. If the bushing doesn't give, apply a little more force and see if you get the bushing to budge. If still no movement, use more heat. The straightness of the jack between the two arms makes a difference too. You want the force pushing as perfectly in line with the bushing as possible. A little angle makes it harder to get the bushing free.
Any tips for removing an 89-94 year Toyota “2wd” pickup lower control arm bushing?
Never removed one.
Hey Tim, I had to do the same thing on my Tacoma. I have a video on it as well.
Sort of a pain in butt to cut them out isn't? There have been many people who have complained that the alignment shop they brought their rig to wasn't able to get the alignment dialed in. It was most likely due to a frozen cam adjuster. If the cam adjuster is frozen into the bushings sleeve, it won't move the control arm when the alignment tech tries to manipulate it.
It would be awesome if you could give the job a score on how much improvement it has made before/after. Do the LCA bushings make a big difference, if they are shot? I recently replaced all 4 shocks and rear upper/lower link bushings, and it rides great. Now I am considering doing all front UCA/LCA bushings as well. Thanks again for the videos!
Well, it would make a difference a couple different ways. #1) if your bushings were wasted and caused play in the front end or maybe a vibration, you would notice the improvement. #2) if you went to get an alignment and your cam adjusters were frozen into the bushing sleeve, replacing the bushings and frozen cam adjusters would allow the alignment tech to align your rig properly, especially after a lift and there's no choice but to get a new alignment done. If you bushings were still in decent shape and not preventing you from getting an accurate alignment done, you probably wouldn't experience any detectable benefit.
In Part 1 where the decision was made to replace the cam adjusters, the quick shop move would have been instead of futzing with getting them to get them out would have been faster from the get-go to just cut them.
Well, it they're not stuck, why cut them out? I've cut these cam adjusters out and it's not quick. If they slide out, slide them out. I don't understand your logic here.
what size sleeve did you use to press the bushing in? i tried using the channel lock method but it was bending the outer rim of the bushing when i was trying to press them in with the vise
I don't remember the size of the sleeve. Those bushings shouldn't require a whole lot of force to go in. Did you clean up the arm really well before trying to press it in? Also, did you use some grease to help with the insertion?
@@TimmyTheToolman i used steel wool to clean the inside. I did not lube it up. I also think i need to go up one size on channel locks. Ill try that and report back. thanks
@@Bluffrat361 Ok, good luck. You'll get it.
@@TimmyTheToolman well i got it. I used a large socket. The channellock method was bending the outer rim of the bushing. Steel wool and grease helped a lot. Thank you for the help.
@@Bluffrat361 Good to hear you finally got it done. Nice work!
What’s the sleeve kit name or brand??
Open the video description by clicking on "Show More". It will expand out and you'll be able to see the list of tools we used for this job. The press sleeve kit is linked in the tool list.
wonder if could get this manual somhere... very usefull indeed
Do a search on Ebay. Lots of sellers have Toyota factory service manuals available.
@@TimmyTheToolmanhello, thanks for advice. Can't afford it though at about £100pricetag. I was looking for confirmation regarding those front lower arm bushings orientation. Not 100% sure which way to fit them bloody things. Could you kindly help me, please? I've got 98 prado, same as Tacoma pretty much.
@@skoda110 Are you talking the orientation of the OEM bushings or aftermarket bushings from Whiteline?
@@TimmyTheToolman Hi, I've got genuine ones. Don't want to srew it.
Also just noticed the steering rack has some slack that the back spring loaded adjuster can't help Grrrrr :)
...There is no place like garage
@@skoda110 Before pressing out the old bushings, you can pay attention to the way they were pressed into the arms and mimmic that for the reinsertion of the new ones. I know the OEM bushings are position specific on each arm. There's one that's meant to go on the front of the arm and one that's meant to go on the rear of the arm. Here's an online version of the factory service manual: drive.google.com/file/d/0B4-QOr310iQRYjY5MDQ0NjgtOTc5Ni00YzZhLTk4NjUtYjk1Y2ZiNjMxMTFk/view?ddrp=1&hl=en Looking up the part numbers for the OEM bushings you bought, you should be able to figure out which one is suppose to go on the front and which one is suppose to go on the back because you should have gotten two different part numbers.
you have me paranoid now, how much deflection would need to be created via the bottle jack method to ruin a LCA?
ZuluComander Don't Stress Zulu Commander. Steel is a metal that can flex somewhat without creating a permanent bend or deformation. When I've used the bottle jack, I've seen some movement in the arms. You just don't want to go crazy with the amount of force applied with the bottle jack to cause a permanent deformation. If your LCAs fit back into frame mounts they attach to, you're good. The people who damaged their LCAs used way too much force. You're suppose the load up the bushing with a moderate amount of force and then use some heat to loosen the bushing from the LCA.
@@TimmyTheToolman Would you say it's a good idea to apply heat before applying any force at all just to make pushing them out even easier?
@@fatdudefoshizzle Yes, I would. A moderate amount of heat isn't going to change the strength of the steel so I think it's safe to apply some heat to help break free the bushing from the control arm.
How remove the bushings
One more tip.
Do not just press them in any which way. Besides knowing which is the out side and inside edges, you also need to mark the proper position of the bushings before removing so that you can install them in that same position.
You see, oem bushing are designed to dampen correctly only when installed correctly (and last much longer too).
Look at the inside of your bushings, you will notice that they are not just completely filled with "rubber". They have a design to them. NOW, BEFORE pressing them out mark the control arm so that you can press the new ones in with the dampening design correctly in place in regards to the control arm.
Lastly, when installing the control arms always tighten them at a neutral position by leaving them slightly loose, lowering the vehicle so that they are loaded or have the weight of the vehicle on them and then tighten them. This way your bushings are not under stress and won't be ripped apart by the up and down movement of the suspension. This is even more important when installing rear bushings.
Following these tips and installing your bushings correctly will make them perform much better and last much longer.
Hey John, you are absolutely correct if somebody is using OEM replacement bushings. If you're using aftermarket bushings like Whiteline poly bushings, you don't need to take the precautions you mention. The bushings are all the same and don't have one that's meant for the front of the arm, rear of the arm and it doesn't matter how you press them in.
You also give good tips about tightening control arms. You want the weight of the vehicle on the wheels before tightening the control arms to spec so the control arms will be in their normal travel path and the bushings won't be bound up with the vehicle just sitting static. In Part 1, I mention this tip in a pinned comment because I forgot to mention it in the video. Also, people need to get an alignment after this job so just know that even if somebody tightened up the control arms before lowering it to the ground, the alignment tech is going to loosen all these cam bolts anyway to do the alignment.
Hey Timmy,
Great videos man. Always enjoy them. Yup you are correct about the alignment shop. You will be surprised how many blank stares I get when I bring up topics like these at the corner alignment shops. I've had to get my hand dirty a few times to make sure my work comes out right when dealing with alignment techs.
Great video, just do you think getting a new LCA is easier?
Glad you like the video. Sure it would be easier effort wise but not easier on your wallet. One lower control arm is $200 so a pair would be $400. A set of Whiteline bushings is $63. If you found a cam sleeve rusted into the bushing like I did on my rig, you would still need to cut it out to install the new arm. You also have to do all the same labor to just replace the arms with the exception of pressing out the old bushings and pressing in the new bushings. So, you have to ask yourself, is the time it takes to replace the bushings worth $340. I think it is.
if you look careful there are a hole in each of those arms on the side where the bushing goes , they are for a reason to attract the water and rust those bushings to the lower control arm - no joke, then people are using all options to replace those bushings and using all force to get them out and sometimes they do successive,
but you are not realizing that you already have damaged lower control arm even you think you got the bushing out as you removed .03 mm of that welded metal, so the new bushings will not sit there well I know that 100%, so I strongly suggests to bite the bullet and pay $400 each OEM and spear yourself a time and miseries of removing them. well it is not exactly $400 as they come complete with bushing and ball join that you are spending for your new ones , so 555 ball join $70 each and good quality bushings are $200 a set so do the formula $400 - $270 = $130, for $130 not worth as new OEM part will last you 20+ years.
Well, everyone has their opinions and you gave yours. I don't agree with you and a whole host of others that have successfully replaced their bushings don't agree with you either. Why spend $800 on a set of arms when all you need to do is replace the bushings. Right now you can buy a full set of Whiteline Poly Bushings for this repair on Amazon for $71. Some people don't need the LBJs because they've already replaced them. So, $800 compared to $71 is more than worth my time to replace the bushings.
Tip three, any bushing removal is a piece of cake if you have a good quality air hammer and proper technique.
Just don't use it to press them in, lol!
Air hammer huh? I do have a small air compressor. Maybe I'll get one.
Yes. As long as your compressor can run the air hammer properly.
I have a bushing job today. I'll use this technique and see if I can get some video of it for you.
Got it. I have a little baby compressor. I'd probably have to get a larger one. I'd love to see a video of this technique.
@@TimmyTheToolman I found this video using an air hammer to get the bushing out might try this when i remove mine. ua-cam.com/video/6Fnxw-a0qgQ/v-deo.html
@@InfamousRecons Let us know how it goes if you try it .
Probably would of been faster to just order new lca but I understand, its cheaper just to order the bushings
Not too much faster. You still have to remove the old control arms, right? The only time you save is the removal and replacement of the bushings in the LCAs. The bushing removal isn't all that hard but it does take a little time. Two new arms will run you around $400 and a set of Whiteline bushings will run you $63. I guess you have to ask yourself if $340 is worth your time to swap out the bushings.
"My butt hurts." "What?"
Funny, isn't it? Found that sign at a shop called "Rocket Fizz". They have all kinds of funny signs for sale there.
Really
Why do you always make your videos an hour long and in two or more parts? The same video could have been made in one 10 minute video.. just like all the others..
Well… we aren’t like all the others, so you’re welcome for providing as much info as possible for novice or beginners to be successful. Just hit that like button and keep watching our videos, because we both know, those other “10 minute” videos leave valuable info out of their videos.
- Sean
Dude, please show me the 10 minute video that completely demonstrates what we show and the knowledge we share. I'll wait...... Yeah, that's what I thought. It doesn't exist. - Timmy
I don’t need no ten minute videos,thanks Timmy !
Dude there's other videos out there. Not everyone is competent like you are. Sometimes people are stuck in a pinch and this guy covers all basis. Skip the video to the parts you need as I do