Hi Lance, loving your videos..been watching the past few months. Without these videos i wouldnt have my tractor in bits right now;) Mine is a 1964 model, normal gearbox and round rear arches, which used to be my grandfathers when he was a farmer... Doing a full restoration on it! I pulled the engine off intially because it was leaking oil from all the places it could..Couple of the pistons have had broken rings and the diesel pump needs a new pump head etc plus lots of other bits. Did all rust removal past couple days on the head and block using electrolysis with sodium carbonate, worked a treat...possible i could email you with a couple questions on the block and pump and send you some pics of the tractor as is now?
I can find these data regarding sleeve hight: For the 3A.152, "Top flange should be 0.001-0.009 below top surface of the block." For the AD3.152, "When properly installed, top of the sleeve must be flush to 0.004 below top face of cylinder block."
Yes I have been doing some more research as well and found similar results. I am going to check where the head gasket fire ring goes too see it I need to drop them a little but Im thinking the gasket wont compress enough to worry it. I will film it if I change my mind. I need to pick up my con rods after resizing so I will ask the engine reconditioners their opinion as well.
@@BundyBearsShed My best estimate is that yours are perfectly fine as they are. If we look at their wording "when properly installed" it indicates that it is to make sure the liners were pushed down all the way, and there was no debris caught up under the edge. They probably made the edge a bit thinner back then, and now it is thicker, so it can protrude a few thousands of an inch above the block.
G day Kelly, That 680 is good gear, when I machine vintage water pumps I have a dummy bearing shaft I lightly 680 into the bore to hold the work and I often need to press it back out again after machining. It retains alright.
I have fitted hundreds, oil only, as long as they are not below and no more than about four thou proud, you won't have a problem, these are "old school" engines and not very highly stressed. I would never loctite them because you will have a real problem if you want to move them in the future, low liners are are more of a problem when it comes to head gasket failure.
@@BundyBearsShed ,I always worry about how you'd get them out in the future if they are "glued" in, if they are really loose you can get the block machined and fit oversize liners, my local Perkind specialist always doe does this if the liners are not a factory fit.
hey mate, I'm currently rebuilding a 135 myself. just wondering where you got your specs from? just want to make sure I'm doing the entire build correctly. cheers.
G Day Max, I did a search and found a 0.030" oversize liner for the AD3.152. That would need the block to be bored to fit them but it is certainly a good option. I would not like to see these any looser but the Loctite 680 will save the day they assure me. '
I have a MF50 with the 152 Perkins. The overhaul kits specify (.040 SLEEVE FLANGE THICKNESS) or (.150 SLEEVE FLANGE THICKNESS) I guess I need to measure the existing sleeves in the engine to know which set to get? The difference in price for the kits is 21 cents!
Hi Lance, Following the whole footage to get an idea of the job to see if it can be done also with my poor experience as I am not a pro actually. I understood you nosed 680 Loctite on the outer liner surface, did you put a “line” of it top down or did you spread it on the whole radius of outer surface?Many thanks again
Back in the late 80,s when Leyland had the new TL11 engine they started burn oil like bush fire 🔥 and having localized overheating 🥵 issues grabbing pistons I worked for Leyspares a customer brought a liner in (thin walled chromehard) with one look 👀 down the bore it became apparent the it was the loctite that was causing all the failures. Where the loctite was applied to the back side of the liner whatever the drool 🤤 mark on the back was a height spot wear mark in the bore. Overtime the Loctite swole up and created high spots in weird patterns in the bore causing hot 🥵 spots as the liners where not contacting the parent bore. We informed what was left of the old guard at Leyland and they had found the same issue. Leyland was defunct by 1990 in Aussie. Was put down to a bad thick batch of Loctite.
Hi Lance, loving your videos..been watching the past few months. Without these videos i wouldnt have my tractor in bits right now;) Mine is a 1964 model, normal gearbox and round rear arches, which used to be my grandfathers when he was a farmer... Doing a full restoration on it! I pulled the engine off intially because it was leaking oil from all the places it could..Couple of the pistons have had broken rings and the diesel pump needs a new pump head etc plus lots of other bits. Did all rust removal past couple days on the head and block using electrolysis with sodium carbonate, worked a treat...possible i could email you with a couple questions on the block and pump and send you some pics of the tractor as is now?
bundybearsshed@gmail.com will get to me.
I can find these data regarding sleeve hight:
For the 3A.152, "Top flange should be 0.001-0.009 below top surface of the block."
For the AD3.152, "When properly installed, top of the sleeve must be flush to 0.004 below top face of cylinder block."
Yes I have been doing some more research as well and found similar results. I am going to check where the head gasket fire ring goes too see it I need to drop them a little but Im thinking the gasket wont compress enough to worry it. I will film it if I change my mind. I need to pick up my con rods after resizing so I will ask the engine reconditioners their opinion as well.
@@BundyBearsShed
My best estimate is that yours are perfectly fine as they are.
If we look at their wording "when properly installed" it indicates that it is to make sure the liners were pushed down all the way, and there was no debris caught up under the edge. They probably made the edge a bit thinner back then, and now it is thicker, so it can protrude a few thousands of an inch above the block.
Lance how is the Loctite applied in the bore before you push the liner in? TIA.
Liberally on both surfaces.
@@BundyBearsShed Got it. Thank you.
sure did sound like a good fit going in there. 680 is termed a "retaining compound".... theres an eternal argument in my shop vice red loctite.
G day Kelly, That 680 is good gear, when I machine vintage water pumps I have a dummy bearing shaft I lightly 680 into the bore to hold the work and I often need to press it back out again after machining. It retains alright.
Hi Lance, I would like to know the torque of the 135 head since I am repairing one, I would greatly appreciate it.
Go to my website I put a free manual download there. bundybearsshed.com.au/technical-library/
I have fitted hundreds, oil only, as long as they are not below and no more than about four thou proud, you won't have a problem, these are "old school" engines and not very highly stressed. I would never loctite them because you will have a real problem if you want to move them in the future, low liners are are more of a problem when it comes to head gasket failure.
Only used loctite as they were a bit loose I felt.
@@BundyBearsShed ,I always worry about how you'd get them out in the future if they are "glued" in, if they are really loose you can get the block machined and fit oversize liners, my local Perkind specialist always doe does this if the liners are not a factory fit.
@@stevefuller1779 Indeed I broke the puller trying to pull a loctited sleeve out, I ended up just chipping it out which was easy but messy.
hey mate, I'm currently rebuilding a 135 myself. just wondering where you got your specs from? just want to make sure I'm doing the entire build correctly.
cheers.
I put a free workshop manual on my website www.queenslandtractorspares.com.au in the technical section.
Slip fit liners take the pain in the ass out of it , do they make oversize o/d liners like Detroit used to for their bird scarers ?
G Day Max, I did a search and found a 0.030" oversize liner for the AD3.152. That would need the block to be bored to fit them but it is certainly a good option. I would not like to see these any looser but the Loctite 680 will save the day they assure me.
'
@@BundyBearsShed do you just put the loctite all around the liner or something?
G'day Lance. Looking good and I bet the liners are plenty tight.
G Day Harrold, Yes Im thinking they will be fine.
I have a MF50 with the 152 Perkins. The overhaul kits specify (.040 SLEEVE FLANGE THICKNESS) or (.150 SLEEVE FLANGE THICKNESS)
I guess I need to measure the existing sleeves in the engine to know which set to get? The difference in price for the kits is 21 cents!
Yes measure and get it right and you will save a lot of hassles.
'Sausage up a close' fit 😂
Hi Lance,
Following the whole footage to get an idea of the job to see if it can be done also with my poor experience as I am not a pro actually.
I understood you nosed 680 Loctite on the outer liner surface, did you put a “line” of it
top down or did you spread it on the whole radius of outer surface?Many thanks again
I spread it
@@BundyBearsShed thank you!
Wondering same thanks for asking simple question
Lance, are this semifinished liners wchi need extra bore job after fitting? thanks a lot
Yes they need boring and honing to size.
@@BundyBearsShed thx so i missed the episode of this LOL did u take them to workshop?
Back in the late 80,s when Leyland had the new TL11 engine they started burn oil like bush fire 🔥 and having localized overheating 🥵 issues grabbing pistons
I worked for Leyspares a customer brought a liner in (thin walled chromehard) with one look 👀 down the bore it became apparent the it was the loctite that was causing all the failures. Where the loctite was applied to the back side of the liner whatever the drool 🤤 mark on the back was a height spot wear mark in the bore. Overtime the Loctite swole up and created high spots in weird patterns in the bore causing hot 🥵 spots as the liners where not contacting the parent bore.
We informed what was left of the old guard at Leyland and they had found the same issue. Leyland was defunct by 1990 in Aussie.
Was put down to a bad thick batch of Loctite.
Thats an interesting yarn. I had not heard of that or a bad batch of loctite either.
what is make & model of tool used to measure liner protrusion ? what did it cost ? can you buy or make just base stand ? thanks
I made mine Jim from square alloy
i think u got 680 lol down the bore
Yep