I was trying to remove the sleeve in my old Toyota for 3 days, making and using my own tools. I wasted hours and hours. I hadn’t seen this video but as soon as I saw it I went outside and removed my sleeve within 1 hour. Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou
Great demonstration video. I totally agree with you. Avoid buying an expensive tool if you're only going to use it once. That applies if you can avoid damaging the cylinder block which in your case does apply. Great job!
I just used this method after watching your video. I had the Ener-pak hydraulic pump, ram, and puller plate ready to go. I though man, this looks way easier! AND IT definitely was. Thanks for the video!! I need to watch your video on installing the new sleeves. I am working on a MF20 with a Perkins AG3.152 gas 3 cylinder.
Thank you so much Brad, I owe you a beer, or actually a case of beer, because you saved me a lot of money. I have a ford 555B backhoe that has the perkins 4.4 engine with them stupid dry sleeves, and was thinking about buying a porta power and a hocky puck to pull them. The method you used is not only faster, but literally costs nothing. It also would be a bitch to get the hocky puck at the bottom of the sleeve with the crank shaft still in the motor and the motor still in the tractor. This video just made my day, thanks again for posting this.
I bet the installation involves a freezer or very cold winter day...or Dry Ice... Sleeved a few engines...mostly freezer or -30°F Winter day...They drop right in!
Tried dry ice and was anticipating them to drop right in. Little bit more of a struggle than anticipated. You'll have to click the link at the end of the video it shows part of the installation.
My friends didn't believe me what I did on my 1hz engine. Exactly the same as you. Just cracked them out. Unfortunately my liners were 1.5mm thick. Took 1h each....done 6.
How hard was it to drop the pan out of this tractor? I have a 135 with low compression in one cylinder. Wasn't sure if i could do an in chassis with the pan being a structural member. Thanks!
It's been a little while since I worked on it. If I remember correctly, it wasn't too bad. I believe we also had to loosen the front end to get some clearance to get to some bolts on the front of the oil pan.
On my small 3 cylinder kubota i did this and it broke my block beware , it made a hole into the water passage. Dont know if the biggger engines are ok with this method, but im going to buy the tool next time
It's been awhile since we did this but if I remember correctly there may have been a couple bolts that were missing that would have required the front axle to come off that we didn't have to contend with.
I am in the same process currently. I loosened the front 2 bolts and the upper loader frame at the front. By doing this, i was able to get enough play to drop the pan. This was done on a MF 20 Industrial with a 3 cylinder Perkins AG3.152. This is a gasoline model.
That was a good help thank you i have a question,once the liners have been done do i need to have the head machined or can i install it with out having that done (this is my first attempt at this so any help would be appreciated) Thank you.
You possibly could get by without having the head machined. Check it to insure it's not warped or pitted. Since we had the head off, I brought ours in and had it gone through.
What is that cylinder sleeve made out of? Currently in the same process but the sleeve in my tractor is extremely hard. Does this method only work for certain cylinder sleeves.
These cylinder sleeves are made out of cast iron and are very hard. There was a wider lip at the top of the sleeve that I chipped out and then slid the small screwdriver in. The rest of the sleeve was surprisingly thin and brittle. These sleeves were also dry sleeves. Some engines have wet sleeves that the engine coolant has contact with, these do not. The block on this engine is also cast iron. I'm not sure if this method would work on an aluminum block.
Why do I always see this whacko shit for pulling liners on small diesels when all you really have to do is size a piece of hard wood and place it between the lower liner and a crank web and turn the crank shaft to press them out? Forgive me for being THAT way but this is Navy Engineman A-School stuff and I have never had any issues with any small diesel doing it that way. The larger diesels I have worked had jacking bolt facilitation on the top of the liner.
Surely they are not cast liners,, tried that today on my Dexta,, just no way José,, mine seem much thicker,,chiped down at 10 mm , nothing thin and tin like yours,,any one here done a dexta?
No question about it, these are cast liners. It's common for dry sleeve liners to be fairly thin and wet sleeve liners to be considerably thicker. I'm not familiar with the Dexta and can't rule out that it doesn't have wet/dry liners. This method is not recommended for wet sleeve liners.
@@bradthesing hi brad ..yes the dexta is a perkins 3cylinder and are indeed dry liners,,but for the life of me could not get it to work like you did.i even tried the puller route but was putting so much torque on it ifeared i would crack the block,,in the end i bought a 3 inch angel grinder wich would just fit inside the bores,,cut a grove from top to bottom and then collapsed them,,,,any how keep up the good work and great video
I was trying to remove the sleeve in my old Toyota for 3 days, making and using my own tools. I wasted hours and hours. I hadn’t seen this video but as soon as I saw it I went outside and removed my sleeve within 1 hour.
Thankyou Thankyou Thankyou
Tried your way of removing sleeve and it worked exactly like you did yours thank you.
Great demonstration video. I totally agree with you. Avoid buying an expensive tool if you're only going to use it once. That applies if you can avoid damaging the cylinder block which in your case does apply. Great job!
Just finished up taking sleeves out, took maybe 5 minutes. Thanks alot!
I just used this method after watching your video. I had the Ener-pak hydraulic pump, ram, and puller plate ready to go. I though man, this looks way easier! AND IT definitely was. Thanks for the video!! I need to watch your video on installing the new sleeves. I am working on a MF20 with a Perkins AG3.152 gas 3 cylinder.
thank you very much tried this on a d282 and worked perfectly ,in 10 mins had two liners out
4 years after you, about to pull and replace one liner and piston on mine. 706 tractor
Thank you so much Brad, I owe you a beer, or actually a case of beer, because you saved me a lot of money. I have a ford 555B backhoe that has the perkins 4.4 engine with them stupid dry sleeves, and was thinking about buying a porta power and a hocky puck to pull them. The method you used is not only faster, but literally costs nothing. It also would be a bitch to get the hocky puck at the bottom of the sleeve with the crank shaft still in the motor and the motor still in the tractor. This video just made my day, thanks again for posting this.
I will try this method on my old 1941 Ford 9N. Thank you for sharing this video!
Great tip u saved me time and money, thanks
I am about doing the same thing. Thanks for sharing your experience
I’ve never done this. I am amazed that the sleeve is that thin. I thought it was like a thick piece of pipe! Thanks for sharing this.
I bet the installation involves a freezer or very cold winter day...or Dry Ice... Sleeved a few engines...mostly freezer or -30°F Winter day...They drop right in!
Tried dry ice and was anticipating them to drop right in. Little bit more of a struggle than anticipated. You'll have to click the link at the end of the video it shows part of the installation.
@@bradthesing just watched and commented.
I hate that i can only watch this video with poor quality my internet stinks but i love to watch ppl rebuild engines
My friends didn't believe me what I did on my 1hz engine. Exactly the same as you. Just cracked them out. Unfortunately my liners were 1.5mm thick. Took 1h each....done 6.
How hard was it to drop the pan out of this tractor? I have a 135 with low compression in one cylinder. Wasn't sure if i could do an in chassis with the pan being a structural member. Thanks!
It's been a little while since I worked on it. If I remember correctly, it wasn't too bad. I believe we also had to loosen the front end to get some clearance to get to some bolts on the front of the oil pan.
Thanks! It’s works!! Be careful tho.
Found out they last rancher used a torch and gouged the fuck out of the block, but it lasted last time FML
Great tip!
great useful information
Wow, I got that same screw driver. Mine was from a company called Apollo back in the 80s. It's pretty magnetized right?
Has. Anyone ever tried this method on an 8n? Haven’t tried yet, are sleeves thicker?
On my small 3 cylinder kubota i did this and it broke my block beware , it made a hole into the water passage. Dont know if the biggger engines are ok with this method, but im going to buy the tool next time
Also I'm working on a AG 3.152 having problems finding a exh valve seat anybody know where I can get some?
Anyone know if this method will work on a chevy 5.3 ls motor?
Good job
Very nice thanks bro
Hello, how were you able to get the oil pan off without removing the front axle?
It's been awhile since we did this but if I remember correctly there may have been a couple bolts that were missing that would have required the front axle to come off that we didn't have to contend with.
I am in the same process currently. I loosened the front 2 bolts and the upper loader frame at the front. By doing this, i was able to get enough play to drop the pan. This was done on a MF 20 Industrial with a 3 cylinder Perkins AG3.152. This is a gasoline model.
Did it score the block on the way down?
No. It slides in amazingly easy. No scoring at all.
Nicely done, thanks for sharing.
That was a good help thank you i have a question,once the liners have been done do i need to have the head machined or can i install it with out having that done (this is my first attempt at this so any help would be appreciated) Thank you.
You possibly could get by without having the head machined. Check it to insure it's not warped or pitted. Since we had the head off, I brought ours in and had it gone through.
What is that cylinder sleeve made out of? Currently in the same process but the sleeve in my tractor is extremely hard. Does this method only work for certain cylinder sleeves.
These cylinder sleeves are made out of cast iron and are very hard. There was a wider lip at the top of the sleeve that I chipped out and then slid the small screwdriver in. The rest of the sleeve was surprisingly thin and brittle. These sleeves were also dry sleeves. Some engines have wet sleeves that the engine coolant has contact with, these do not. The block on this engine is also cast iron. I'm not sure if this method would work on an aluminum block.
Good technique
Does this work on all motors like a Cummins or say a Perkins motor on a cat 220?
If they have dry sleeves, then I would say yes. Some motors don't have sleeves. I wouldn't do this on wet sleeve cyclers either.
awesome, this will save me some cabbage !!!
what if the liner is not bad and u what to use it back in the copy of the engine
If the liner is still good, normally you would not take it out.
Why do I always see this whacko shit for pulling liners on small diesels when all you really have to do is size a piece of hard wood and place it between the lower liner and a crank web and turn the crank shaft to press them out? Forgive me for being THAT way but this is Navy Engineman A-School stuff and I have never had any issues with any small diesel doing it that way. The larger diesels I have worked had jacking bolt facilitation on the top of the liner.
These are not wet liners
The sleeves you installed, were they semi-finished? And if so did you have to hone them prior to piston installation, thanks.
They appeared to be finished and we did not hone them.
Bro nice tip idea save my money
How thick are those liners?
What if the liner is cast iorn..?
I believe the liners were cast iron. Just real thin. Just cant be a wet sleeve motor.
Nice
Saludos donde compro repuestos originales que me de 10.000 horas de trabajo
no poss guauuu
nice information
it work on wet type?
I don't know... These were dry.
@@bradthesing ok thanks
no
no.. dry liner is very thin.. splits easily. Wet liner has substantially more wall thickness.
👍👍👍
Good sir
Surely they are not cast liners,, tried that today on my Dexta,, just no way José,, mine seem much thicker,,chiped down at 10 mm , nothing thin and tin like yours,,any one here done a dexta?
No question about it, these are cast liners. It's common for dry sleeve liners to be fairly thin and wet sleeve liners to be considerably thicker. I'm not familiar with the Dexta and can't rule out that it doesn't have wet/dry liners. This method is not recommended for wet sleeve liners.
@@bradthesing hi brad ..yes the dexta is a perkins 3cylinder and are indeed dry liners,,but for the life of me could not get it to work like you did.i even tried the puller route but was putting so much torque on it ifeared i would crack the block,,in the end i bought a 3 inch angel grinder wich would just fit inside the bores,,cut a grove from top to bottom and then collapsed them,,,,any how keep up the good work and great video
👍
Never remove a dry liner that way pressed or pulled out preferably pressed.
Punch touch the boreThen new liner fitting time easy spoil and water mix engine oil,,,
I would not recommend this method on a wet sleeve.
Boy that was neat. Not going to buy or make a puller...
Great video, just needs to be a little louder.
👍 thanks for the feedback. I'll see what I can do on future videos.
Its that easy don’t need to take of ur wrist clock
lol, ya, it was that easy
Very Wrong if this is wet liner it will damage outerwall and start mixing antifreeze in to oil so u need little better tool u can make that easy too
I agree. This isn't recommended for a wet sleeves. This engine has dry sleeves.
It would be fun to watch somebody try and do this with a wet liner....but again.. totally different procedure all together for a wet liner.
You set pre cut ones in and taped down the edge
Don't use finished liners they should be unfinished and machine honed to correct tolerance. A finished dry liner won't be true in tolerance.
Not all them engines take the same liner there's three different styles
Them must be some different metal than what I'm working with this shit ain't no where near doable
woo pants shitted
Even in iraq we don't do this 😂
Record video poooooooooooorrrrrreeeeeeessssssssssssssssstttttttttttttttt