I've been trying for days to find location of the crank shaft sensor in distributor in a 1992 civic, I guess this is the best video to see the models with that type of mechanic" Back in 1982, My friend and I were going 125 miles per hour challenging that Sport Datsun like yours on the freeway from Georgetown to Austin Texas, Suddenly a guy started to leave us behind and waited for us 100 meters ahead , when we cought up , again he left us , but that little car can run, We were having fun, but we got cought and arrested and spent 2 days in George town jail," But still 125 miles speed is fast , Now Im 60 and my son say that I drive like a turtle.🐢 Thanks to God I never had a horrible accident. That is a beauty full automobile you have there.
I have the same plans to use that turbo dizzy to trigger my cam sync to the MegaSquirt 3!!! I'll be able to run both COP and sequential injectors, assuming i dont muck it up....LOL! Nice demonstration with the meter, will help my troubleshooting later, thank you.
I'm going to run a 36-1 crank trigger, VR sensor for the tach and the turbo dizzy with the DIY slotted wheel for the cam sync, optical sensor. Gotta lotta soldering to do, LOL. I'm going to use FI manifold from a 280Z and an aftermarket throttle body. Might be okay.... if I can pull it off. thanks again for your videos, i'm doing alot of the same things you are.
zeb stanbrough from what I can tell from my own experiences, I think it’s relevant for any Nissan optical CAS eg. SR20, VG, RB engines. I think Nissan took the idea and blanket applied it to everything! Good ol’ Nissan! 😎
Great video, I have a 2000 Infiniti g20, aka Nissan Primera, dame trigger wheel in the dizzy. Visually I can see some chips in on the outer rim of the wheel, I’ve been trying to hunt down a bucking issue that only seems to happen around 1700. This video has given me some confidence to tackle the job.
Nope I’m running the diy auto tune disc 54mm. Love your vids it reminds me of all my struggles through my build. Keep it goin! Wish I woulda done vids but was to busy gettin down n dirty LOL. If you need any info/help let me know!
Hi mate, I love this video! My VLT has died and it has no spark. I have an Autronic ECU which runs a different chopper disc in the distributor. It has just 6 large slots, so I guess will give a different voltage reading to a standard Nissan disc. I just performed the test you did with the dizzy still in the car. At cranking speed I managed a maximum of .405 volts. I gather this is far too low and the CAS is dead?
A benefit of the optical CAS design is the output voltage is the same regardless of slot size, it is simply a switch triggered by light. As far as determining if the CAS is your problem, have you investigated other aspects of your ignition (eg. ignition coil, does the tach register an RPM during cranking)? From memory the ECU on a VLT should report codes using two LEDs. This might give insight into problems.
Hi friend thanks for the video, how much power are you plug in the sensor to test? Are you doing that with 12 volts or with 1,5 v because i have my l series disambled and need to test the sensor so I was thinking on plug some power in order to test the sensor.
@@kyushaspeed thanks for answer me! is 12 v for supply and then 1,5 volts to test the pulses right? and you put the negative of the voltimeter on the ground and with the positive you test the two resting wires.
So if I attach my multi meter to the white wire and get nearly no response but then attach it to the green wire and get 1.4 volts and slightly above, would that indicate the crank angle sensor is working properly or that it is not working properly? Good reading on one of the two wires?
Hi Eddie, I would consider reading on only one of the signal wires to be a bad CAS. Does the voltage change when you rotate or trip the optical sensor? The change in voltage is the important thing.
@@kyushaspeed Thank you for your reply. I accidentally turned the shaft from CAS when I put it in the car could this cause problems that the car does not start ? I would be very grateful for your reply. I have CA18DET it has silimalr CAS that you show for the RB series
Removal depends on the unit. I know removal for an L28ET and RB30E distributors. If it is from another motor, the process is likely a little bit different.
QOTD - share your build!
I've been trying for days to find location of the crank shaft sensor in distributor in a 1992 civic, I guess this is the best video to see the models with that type of mechanic" Back in 1982, My friend and I were going 125 miles per hour challenging that Sport Datsun like yours on the freeway from Georgetown to Austin Texas, Suddenly a guy started to leave us behind and waited for us 100 meters ahead , when we cought up , again he left us , but that little car can run, We were having fun, but we got cought and arrested and spent 2 days in George town jail," But still 125 miles speed is fast , Now Im 60 and my son say that I drive like a turtle.🐢 Thanks to God I never had a horrible accident. That is a beauty full automobile you have there.
Thanks Pilgrim!
This video has helped. It ruled one thing out on my RB20 so now I have to keep searching until I find it
Glad to have helped. Good luck with fault searching.
I have the same plans to use that turbo dizzy to trigger my cam sync to the MegaSquirt 3!!! I'll be able to run both COP and sequential injectors, assuming i dont muck it up....LOL! Nice demonstration with the meter, will help my troubleshooting later, thank you.
Joe M cheers!
Cam sync you say? Are you running an individual crank sensor or using the turbo dizzy for that as well?
I'm going to run a 36-1 crank trigger, VR sensor for the tach and the turbo dizzy with the DIY slotted wheel for the cam sync, optical sensor. Gotta lotta soldering to do, LOL. I'm going to use FI manifold from a 280Z and an aftermarket throttle body. Might be okay.... if I can pull it off. thanks again for your videos, i'm doing alot of the same things you are.
Thanks for the info! this looks like it applies to the 300ZX (Z32) 1990-1996 as they use a combined CAS that runs off one of the exhaust cams.
zeb stanbrough from what I can tell from my own experiences, I think it’s relevant for any Nissan optical CAS eg. SR20, VG, RB engines. I think Nissan took the idea and blanket applied it to everything! Good ol’ Nissan! 😎
Thank you for taking the time to make this video, you're a big help.
I’m glad it helped!
Great video, I have a 2000 Infiniti g20, aka Nissan Primera, dame trigger wheel in the dizzy.
Visually I can see some chips in on the outer rim of the wheel, I’ve been trying to hunt down a bucking issue that only seems to happen around 1700. This video has given me some confidence to tackle the job.
Tony Ferraro glad to have helped.
Good luck diagnosing the problem with your Infiniti! 👍
Excellent quality videos. Thank you for taking the time to explain this
No worries! Glad to have helped 👍
That’s the one I’m runnin! Good for the megasquirt 81-83 turbo dist
Nice! Do you use the standard trigger disc?
Nope I’m running the diy auto tune disc 54mm. Love your vids it reminds me of all my struggles through my build. Keep it goin! Wish I woulda done vids but was to busy gettin down n dirty LOL. If you need any info/help let me know!
Great video
i was playing 2d chess and nissan decided to play 4d , lol
Nissan did seem to make things unnecessarily complicated! The ECCS system from the late 80s was terrible.
Hi mate, I love this video!
My VLT has died and it has no spark.
I have an Autronic ECU which runs a different chopper disc in the distributor. It has just 6 large slots, so I guess will give a different voltage reading to a standard Nissan disc.
I just performed the test you did with the dizzy still in the car. At cranking speed I managed a maximum of .405 volts. I gather this is far too low and the CAS is dead?
A benefit of the optical CAS design is the output voltage is the same regardless of slot size, it is simply a switch triggered by light.
As far as determining if the CAS is your problem, have you investigated other aspects of your ignition (eg. ignition coil, does the tach register an RPM during cranking)? From memory the ECU on a VLT should report codes using two LEDs. This might give insight into problems.
Hi friend thanks for the video, how much power are you plug in the sensor to test? Are you doing that with 12 volts or with 1,5 v because i have my l series disambled and need to test the sensor so I was thinking on plug some power in order to test the sensor.
I used 12V for power supply. The CAS sensor was developed before 5V active sensor supply became the norm.
@@kyushaspeed thanks for answer me! is 12 v for supply and then 1,5 volts to test the pulses right? and you put the negative of the voltimeter on the ground and with the positive you test the two resting wires.
Good info I like that
Cheers!
I found a question tho will this sensor operate the lower throttle plates or the butterfly's nearest the intake ports of the head
So if I attach my multi meter to the white wire and get nearly no response but then attach it to the green wire and get 1.4 volts and slightly above, would that indicate the crank angle sensor is working properly or that it is not working properly? Good reading on one of the two wires?
Hi Eddie,
I would consider reading on only one of the signal wires to be a bad CAS. Does the voltage change when you rotate or trip the optical sensor? The change in voltage is the important thing.
What's the voltage suppose to be out of the 120 degree pin on an rb30 distributor ?
It should be the same 1.5V as the 360 slot pin.
@@kyushaspeed Thank you !
what voltage you applied to the sensor ?
12V from memory.
@@kyushaspeed Thank you for your reply.
I accidentally turned the shaft from CAS when I put it in the car could this cause problems that the car does not start ? I would be very grateful for your reply. I have CA18DET it has silimalr CAS that you show for the RB series
How do you remove that optical sensor to install a custom disc. ?
Removal depends on the unit. I know removal for an L28ET and RB30E distributors. If it is from another motor, the process is likely a little bit different.
It's a ka24e from a 90 240 but it looks just like that RB30 distributor
DJ-JD ua-cam.com/video/p_YRoEb5Xr4/v-deo.html at about 4:30 from memory
Do you know if the Rb20e is the same cas as rb30
I’m not sure sorry. I have not worked on an RB20E before. I cannot find much info on parts websites either.
@@kyushaspeed yea neither can I most forums are all about the rb30 an in NZ it's near impossible to find a cas anyway bloody cars! cheers mate
What can cause the sensor to fail?
I'm not aware of one specific reason why the sensors might fail. Failure seems to be largely dependent on the quality of manufacture.
heat. humidity. probably