Thanks for the vid, have a couple questions (1977), Should the L on the back of contact always be in contact with the rod? Did I hear you say the little black plastic piece inserted with spring should be rotated so it would stay in place? Thanks
Thanks for your video. I bought a second hand C3 and the horn is not working. I think it is the pin that is not completing the circuit. Would there be any risk to put down a nail or anything conductive in the hole for the pin to see if the horn actually works?
You could definitely put a nail down there, but the easiest way to test is still put 12v to the individual horn units. If the metal pin is there, that pin is doing its job. You simply have to complete the circuit.
It's most likely your horn units themselves. (If the relay clicks, it's doing its job.) There should be two horns (low tone and high tone) mounted in the nose of the car. The power wire from the relay goes to the driver's side horn and then goes to the passenger-side horn. Connecting one lead of a test light to the power wire, the other to the frame and then pushing the horn button should illuminate the test light. Alternatively, you can run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the terminal on the horn -- ground should be via the body of the horn through the mounting bolt. Chances are the horns have both failed, but it's also possible 1)rust and grime are preventing a good ground 2)the wire to the horns broke 3) your car had its horns removed during a previous front-end collision. GM horns also sometimes start working again after being soaked with WD40 and hit with a hammer. (Some horns also have a knurled knob to change pressure on the horn speaker, so using a pair of pliers move it back and forth to a different position...but don't expect it to continue working long if it does come back to life.) A pair of horns can be purchased for about $15 on Amazon, so that's the route most people take.
@@edwardtasi2905 Should be easy to test. Clip one side of the circuit tester to the horn power wire and touch the other side to a known good ground (clean metal on the frame or engine...or even run a test lead wire to the negative side of the battery), then push the horn button. If it lights, it's bad ground. If it doesn't, the wire has no continuity. You'll need a second person to push the horn to see in real time or just prop your phone and video while you push it and play video back.) If the ground is good and the horn unit is good, then just look at a wiring diagram to trace the power wire from the relay to the horn so it can be replaced. By the way, there are many threads on this issue on CorvetteForum.com
@@edwardtasi2905 Here is a good explanation: There should be a horn relay (or at least the connector for it) in a three-wire breakout to the left and almost above the fuse box--yes it's a pain to see The three wires leading to the horn relay are: Orange--power from the CTSY circuit. Black--ground coming from the steering column and contained in the "harmonica" connector whose other end is the turn signal switch. Dark Green--this is power to the horn. The Dark Green wire is energized (+12V) by the horn relay when the horn button is pressed. The horns are grounded to the chassis so there's only one wire feeding them. From the relay, the Dark Green wire routes back behind the fuse box to the big connector that goes through the firewall. After that it follows a large bundle of wiring heading forward and sort of tucked up under the left (driver) fender. It will break out in the front left of the car ahead of the radiator. The single wire simply chains via the connector on the first horn to the second horn. Testing the circuit is easy. Make certain you have +12V (constant) at the orange wire leading to the relay. Make certain that you get ground at the black wire leading to the relay when you press the horn button. If good so far, make sure you have +12V at the dark green wire with the relay installed and horn button pressed. If the relay is CLICKING, but you're not getting 12V at the relay where the green wire is attached, the relay is still actually bad or the harness it's plugged into has bad contact.
Well here we go , I could not see anything you were talking about because your fingers were in the way . There was no close ups either . Watch the video as a lay person, you will see what I mean . Sheriff
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Thanks for the vid, have a couple questions (1977), Should the L on the back of contact always be in contact with the rod? Did I hear you say the little black plastic piece inserted with spring should be rotated so it would stay in place? Thanks
Thanks for your video. I bought a second hand C3 and the horn is not working. I think it is the pin that is not completing the circuit. Would there be any risk to put down a nail or anything conductive in the hole for the pin to see if the horn actually works?
You could definitely put a nail down there, but the easiest way to test is still put 12v to the individual horn units. If the metal pin is there, that pin is doing its job. You simply have to complete the circuit.
When I hit the horn on my 1975 the horn relay pings but horn doesn't work.I replaced relay but same thing.any ideas?
It's most likely your horn units themselves. (If the relay clicks, it's doing its job.) There should be two horns (low tone and high tone) mounted in the nose of the car. The power wire from the relay goes to the driver's side horn and then goes to the passenger-side horn. Connecting one lead of a test light to the power wire, the other to the frame and then pushing the horn button should illuminate the test light. Alternatively, you can run a wire from the positive side of the battery to the terminal on the horn -- ground should be via the body of the horn through the mounting bolt. Chances are the horns have both failed, but it's also possible 1)rust and grime are preventing a good ground 2)the wire to the horns broke 3) your car had its horns removed during a previous front-end collision. GM horns also sometimes start working again after being soaked with WD40 and hit with a hammer. (Some horns also have a knurled knob to change pressure on the horn speaker, so using a pair of pliers move it back and forth to a different position...but don't expect it to continue working long if it does come back to life.) A pair of horns can be purchased for about $15 on Amazon, so that's the route most people take.
@CollectorCarGuru there is no power going to the drivers side horn? Bad ground perhaps or broken wire?
@@edwardtasi2905 Should be easy to test. Clip one side of the circuit tester to the horn power wire and touch the other side to a known good ground (clean metal on the frame or engine...or even run a test lead wire to the negative side of the battery), then push the horn button. If it lights, it's bad ground. If it doesn't, the wire has no continuity. You'll need a second person to push the horn to see in real time or just prop your phone and video while you push it and play video back.) If the ground is good and the horn unit is good, then just look at a wiring diagram to trace the power wire from the relay to the horn so it can be replaced. By the way, there are many threads on this issue on CorvetteForum.com
@@edwardtasi2905 Here is a good explanation:
There should be a horn relay (or at least the connector for it) in a three-wire breakout to the left and almost above the fuse box--yes it's a pain to see
The three wires leading to the horn relay are: Orange--power from the CTSY circuit. Black--ground coming from the steering column and contained in the "harmonica" connector whose other end is the turn signal switch. Dark Green--this is power to the horn.
The Dark Green wire is energized (+12V) by the horn relay when the horn button is pressed. The horns are grounded to the chassis so there's only one wire feeding them. From the relay, the Dark Green wire routes back behind the fuse box to the big connector that goes through the firewall. After that it follows a large bundle of wiring heading forward and sort of tucked up under the left (driver) fender. It will break out in the front left of the car ahead of the radiator. The single wire simply chains via the connector on the first horn to the second horn.
Testing the circuit is easy. Make certain you have +12V (constant) at the orange wire leading to the relay. Make certain that you get ground at the black wire leading to the relay when you press the horn button. If good so far, make sure you have +12V at the dark green wire with the relay installed and horn button pressed.
If the relay is CLICKING, but you're not getting 12V at the relay where the green wire is attached, the relay is still actually bad or the harness it's plugged into has bad contact.
Well here we go , I could not see anything you were talking about because your fingers were in the way . There was no close ups either . Watch the video as a lay person, you will see what I mean . Sheriff