🔵Finding brood in December and also talking sugar brick recipe/thoughts on feed additives.
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- Опубліковано 14 гру 2019
- Research on vinegar can be found in L. Bailey book the Honeybee Pathology unfortunately besides owning a copy you can't get access to all the research online books.google.com/books?id=Jjf...
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#Beekeeping #beekeeper #Honeybee - Розваги
Excellent video again. I really like your diplomatic way of explaining there is no single way to go about beekeeping. Avoid mistakes but keep an open mind.
Well done Kamon, glad you are happy to point out to people what works for you is not a universal fix for everyone, but the basics are what people should be thinking about. I think some of the ideas around additives comes from people and Chinese like whispers. Vinegar is a preservative, It can be added to liquid sugar feeds to help slow down / prevent bacterial / yeast infections which can cause fermentation of the sugar water syrup. (Normally in warm conditions) So it is easy to see how some folks have dragged it over onto their winter feeding not realising / understanding the initial purpose. That said , not everyone needs to add it in summer, eg depending on how long the sugar water is being fed or sitting in the hive, the uptake by the bees and the list of permutations goes on. First time bee keepers are blessed if they come across your channel and have all the noise taken out of bee keeping and are able to just get on with the basics.
I can relate to the dead battery when you need the drill!!!🤨 It's like trying to find a tape measure or pencil on the job site! LOL Great video!! Thanks Kamon
Great video Kamon. I use the same type shim with my mountain camp sugar. I have a 3/4" wide 1/2" high opening in mine for ventilation. I make hardware cloth wire baskets about 1" high and line with newspaper, kind of like the pan you use to make your brick. Worked great last year and so far this year here in S.E. Ohio.
The hat definitely looks warm! Love youe videos. I learn so much!
Love you videos and thank you for the work you do. I tried the roofing paper and it was a no go for me as it tore over time and was a pain to store when not used. This might sound crazy but I use carpet runners (those plastic things they put down to keep carpet clean) the ones with grips on one side work best and can be cut to use for any type hive nucs, top bar any kind. When not in use they roll up easy to store away and so far have lasted 3 seasons (winter). I guess in areas with lots of rain you could use year round and the added benefit is you can see what's under them so critters and insects can't hide. Hope this helps you and others keep your hives dry and cut cost for winter prep.
Keep your guard up Kamon, I for see a bunch of haters saying you should have left more honey,or why you feeding sugar..these will be same group u referred to that don't understand,warm weather makes em eat more,rain keeps em from foraging,or trying to make sure they don't eat everything up before spring finally let's loose some nectar,or some of us like to feed sugar so we may have a couple frames of actual honey for splits we plan on making come Spring..Superb Info as Always
Good day Kamon in Canada were I am at from late Oct to March no flying so stay out the way when they do fly lol its a shit storm in spring lol Its only -17 today during the day at night a lot colder.
I just picked up 8 more complete hives with supers, so looking forward to spring (4 frame electric extractor) and many more things needed. Now ready for spring time cheers
I cracked mine open a few days ago and WHOA, a hive that requeened itself in late October was busting out bees everywhere! I was told it was going to die and that I should've merged it with another, but inspired by your 'lets experiment' attitude, I fed it and left it and so glad I did!
A young well mated queen is a powerful thing
Enjoying your old videos, wish you were still making and posting good beekeeping videos. The conference benefits a very small percentage of your subscribers.
It actually is, just can't see it yet. Shaping the industry quite a bit. UA-cam doesn't pay enough to support 1/4 of my living (and I drive a 2003 prius) I need employees to help me be able to manage the bees, youtube, the conference, and give me a few moments with my family. The conference will help me do that in ways youtube can't.
However, the conference will actually make my channel better in the future. Thanks for sticking around while I iron things out!
Beautiful looking hive. I just looked at mine earlier and am happy with their health and conditions. That being said, I am up in Maine, so there are 3 more long months before I start breathing easier.
Kamon, you and your sweet wife are entertaining and articulate and informative. Thank you.
Thanks Wally. Merry Christmas!
😆 great sence of humor. Thank you for your channel
Glad you enjoyed it Sylvia! Happy Beekeeping!
Looks like he got your boggin in the the Klingon department unless you've contracted Deformed Head Virus. Keep the videos coming.🐝
Kamon, your (or Lauren's) caramel candy recipe is the best one we have ever tried, thank you and I hope you and your little family has a very Merry Christmas.
Glad you liked it John. Merry Christmas!
Thanks
Thank you so simple
Thank you for another great video 😊👍
Further to your sugar bricks which I use a lot of. IF you wrap them up in cling film then before giving them to the bees to cut a large rectangle in the bottom and then place it upside down on the frames. The block will capture the steam and moisture from the center of the brood and will help to dissolve the sugar brick. Love the videos.
I agree with Kamon in regards to nutrition and general management. However, when it comes to mite resistant bees, I like the idea of using IPM where you start with cultural controls such as screened bottom boards and resistant queens and progress up the pyramid to pesticides. Also, an often overlooked aspect of resistant stock is that the same traits that help them control mites also help with controlling brood diseases.
You crack me up at least once in all your videos Kaymon 👍
good to see winter video
I'm with Lauren, its your head!!
Thanks Kamon!
kamon i like your hat.
i made sugar bricks using a brownie pan, and put by woodstove. just cut it in half with knife before drying and made two bricks.
very good honest info!
Good information as always my friend. No two parts of the country are going to be identical when it comes to when to feed when to give supplements or when to even open the hive. Here in Northwestern Massachusetts I have to wait until I have a day close to 50 before I can open a hive just for a minute and see how they're doing on food stores. We also have to leave around 100 pounds of honey on hives just to get them through the winter months which can be as long as five months. And then if we are lucky we may get one or two cleansing flights in within that five months. Last year I made my sugar bricks and I used apple cider vinegar and I had a 100% survival rate on my hives. This year I'm doing an experiment in which I'm using the mountain camp sugar method on half of my hives and putting the sugar bricks with vinegar on the other half. It will be interesting to see what the losses are if there is any this year as well. I don't think I will be as lucky as I was last year because a lot of other beekeepers in my area had some pretty high losses. Excellent video and as always thanks for sharing.
Thanks. I bet the difference between the two will be noticable myself. I really think if the 3 keys are on target colonies are really resilient to tiny stressors. Shoot, and scientists aren't always right either. Might shorten their life span by an average of half a day or something. Who knows. Best of luck on your bees!
Thanks !!
Best bee keeping Chanel about
Thanks Stephen. We will keep trying to make better videos
Kamon, love you videos and the great information you put out to all the other beekeepers. Can you tell me how your tar paper experiment has gone? I'm like you and hope to protect my lids to make them last an extra few years.
Just a few weeks ago, I had a lot of bees per hive.
I checked a few days ago and I have maybe 1/2 the bees per hive.
Gave them mountain camp style sugar and a bit of pollen patties.
I treated with apivar a couple of month ago.
Did not do a OA yet since treatment with apivar.
Do robber bees rob hives this time of the year? Seams like I have a lot of traffic coming and going and there is some pollen coming in here in N.C.
For the last few years we have had very mild winters in the UK, and I have also noticed brood much later in the year, I have had to wait until January before vaping the colonies, if climate change gets any worse we might not have brood free times to vape the varroa.
I used your recipe and added some ultra bee and a touch of pro health. They seem to be chomping it down pretty good.
I made a winter covers that uses wood chips and sugar to help control the moisture. So far it'sworking. Moisture seems under control and they will have sugar when they need it. I have a little unicorn horn dust if you need some.
Yes please send a few pounds I really need my mites to turn into 1 dollar bills!
Very informative. Th x.
Hi Kamon
I was actually going to make a mix this afternoon, but will try this method and let you know how it goes.
Enjoy your Sunday! 👍
Let me know how it goes and you have a great day
@@kamonreynolds It seems all too common now, that even Before I'm asked, "What are you doing?" I reply, "Nothing", before I'm asked.
She knows then, I've watched one of your videos!
It's reassuring though, as you get the blame! 😂
It's your fault that there's wet sugar up the walls, and that I dropped a dry slab of sugar on the kitchen floor, when I was taking it out of the tray! 😂
Oh how we laughed!
The mix went ok, and I'll let you know in time, what the bees think of it. 👍😂
@@beekeeper1889 haha too funny. It is often my fault around here!
How many beehives do you manage? How far apart are your beehives from each other and in what shape do you place the hives?
Had to watch this on the sugar bricks....had to lol when the battery went dead...
Somewhere here in Texas there is a giy that sells bees immune to mites and more.i will try to get some next year
I mix up the sugar and water, press it into the pans then just leave them to air dry for 24 hours.
Also added just a little pollen sub to the 2:1 syrup I was feeding through the fall and got some very long lived winter bees (I'm in zone 7).
And I'm pretty sure Laurel is right like usual.
Nice video
When do I switch from sugar water to dry sugar? Thanks, Jim in Fort Worth TX
I have one deep brood box,so next yr when its full i just put another deep,and use it for two brood boxes? Or use the second for the super,then use it for second brood for winter ?
Fl. Bob, great videos. What is the best veil to see out of ? I have a PROvent jacket and veil but can not see out of it very well. Thanks
Thanks very much Bob. Kelley's out of Kentucky has a great veil to see out of. You can just get the veil (like I have in the video) or order it with a zipper/suit/jacket. Here is a video I did that has the Kelley veil without the suit. ua-cam.com/video/Vy0W6_Vj_aQ/v-deo.html
10:30 correct me if i'm wrong but worker jelly is royal jelly with pollen/protein made for worker bees as opposed to just royal jelly which is exclusive to the queen.
Hi Kamond l am from Australia and into my 2nd year.
I am just starting to get honey this season and not from bees l have bought from renown beekeepers with young furtile queens at the start.
Amazingly the honey and number of bee growth from 1st season, small swarms and later this year a large colony from the local pony club in a large pipe that was a horse jump.
The pipe l put a hive behind and they swarmed into it.
Then the pipe swarmed again into a empty box 100mts away.
There are still bees in the pipe l am glad l didn't cut it open
The bees that have been fed by previous breeders and l to over winter, appear to bè lazy as they know food will be given to them or the sugar water makes them not as active maybe fat inside.
Were the others are work acholics as they know they need to grow numbers and store honey to survive.
Your thoughts?
But l wouldn't buy anymore bees after what l have seen.
I found today that the 4 small swarms l found in bird breeding boxes in Septembet are now full of bees again ready to harvest.
Great video! But in the winter not good for bees to use smoker.
Thinking of ordering bees in spring. What are the differences between Italians and Carnolians? I am interested honey production small hobby scale.
Hello Kamon and wife.(you know she a great help)
Really enjoy your videos, but greatly benefit from your knowledge.
I looked at the respirator mask you feature at amazon "3M Half Facepiece Disposable Respirator Assembly 5101, Organic Vapor, Small ", and have a couple of questions. The description states that it is for organic vapor, but not for organic acid. Is the vapor and not the acid what we need?
Also it shows that the mask is disposable and the filters are not replaceable. Does that mean a one time use or can it be used many times? Is this the one you use, if so have you used it more than one time?
We love your work
Kamon
I could be wrong but I didn't see an upper entrance. Any advice on them.
I was taught you need an upper entrance to get the winter moisture out and in the event the bottom entrance is clogged.
No upper entrances but my hives are not air tight. Our bottoms won't get blocked since we don't have enough snow here to be an issue
Ok....question time.
1: All I've read and been told is, don't break their cluster in the winter...don't open the hive unless necessary. I'm good with that and I realize it isn't bitter cold there...our weather pattern much the same in eastern KY. I can see your bees are not clustered but feeding. Anyway...how do you determine its OK to open up and look inside?
2: If the hive is left with plenty of honey....why feed them? What is the purpose of leaving adequate natural stores and then giving artificial feed?
3: It got up to near 50 a week or so ago and my bees were flying, so I popped the covers and looked inside...my upper boxes are full of honey and evidently they are living in the lower boxes. In a few hives the bees were on top, in others down below. I thought the bees would move up in winter...but does that only occur after consuming the lower stores? This first year of keeping has been an odyssey of learning and frustration. But..lots of fun as well. Thanks for sharing your wisdom.
I will get back to your question soon it will take a sec to answer but I will get back with you on that
@mark Harris, I know keepers who open hive at -10f to check on them and they aren't clustered. If there is a reason to go into the hives then be quick, not a big deal at all
@@George-nx5lo well.....When I take the lid off and can see bees thru the hole in the inner cover.....that's enough for me. When I don't see bees....I get suspect all is not well. All 6 of my hives were left with full upper boxes of honey...I fed until they quit taking syrup late in October. The lower brood boxes had lots of stores.....I've kept pollen substitute available and they really worked it hard. I treated regularly with OA, finding very little mite drop the last couple treatments. Point is, I've gave it my best shot. When the weather is warm...all hives show activity, some more than others. BUT, I want to know why the bees are not moving up. Just finished watching Palmer talk about this desire to move up and not horizontally, which most books say as well. Ultimately, will it make a difference if I discover a problem at this stage....probably not. If they die, they die. I needed to requeen one hive for certain but due to surgery, I got behind at a critical time. A FLIR thermometer would probably do the trick in judging the size of the cluster.
1) a climate like mine...-20F this week. Maybe don't open hive. Heck, the snow is thigh deep and Im not walking out there.
Hey Mark, if the bees are as they should be in winter they shouldn't be opened. However, many folks don't understand that if the bees do need something it is better to give it to them and break the seal then to let them starve. If the bees are able to bring in enough forage than there is no reason to feed them anything like this sugar brick and that is much preferred. Bees do start low in the boxes and work there way up thru winter if things are normal but their are variables and Laurel and I inspect colonies to insure nothing is amiss. This yard had to be fed more than any other. It is our poorest forage yard and it still has 80 colonies. The fact that we didn't have rain for almost 2 months during goldenrod and wingstem hurt also. Every year is different and not all of our bees are the same. We have Italians and Carnies. Hope my answers helped a little. Merry Christmas from the Reynolds family
Thank You and Your Wife For Bring Us All So Much Info And Entertainment!!
Could I use 1/2 cup of water with 4 lbs. of sugar, 4 lbs. is how I buy it??
Just take about 20% of the water out and your good. Thankfully it doesn't have to be perfect
@@kamonreynolds Thank You So Much For The Fast Reply
Hey kamon I’ve often Wonder why them bees get up on the lid like that they don’t seem to do that in summer you reckon it’s because the don’t have anything else to do
the mites will never disappear from our hives. what we will eventually see is a co existence between our bees and mites just like with apis cerana.
Maybe. What I don't understand is that folks say this but don't consider that it is just as likely the mites/virus could get worse and drive the honeybee extinct. It happens. Not that I believe in millions of years, but if I did I think it would stand to reason to think that it could take thousands if not millions of years for the same level of coexistence. Ceranae is very, very different. Observing the world around I notice that some things just have pests and the bees pests are here to stay and weaken hives. I hope I am wrong.
Kamon Reynolds - Tennessee's Bees I don’t think that mites have the same ability to evolve as quickly as honeybees considering the whole brother/sister incest style of reproduction. And i dont think co existence will take millions of years especially with humans selectively breeding for resistance. I mean it took us a lot less than a million years to turn a wolf into a boston terrier so i think we can manage a varroa proof bee in a few decades.
Hi Kamon, I made a couple sugar bricks today and was wondering how you store them until using them. I won't be out to my hives for a week and I don't want them to absorb moisture and become soft. I any thoughts?
I don't know about long term storage but I have some in basement that are a week old and look just fine so far. As long as the humidity isn't higher than what is in a house they should be fine.
It's easier to mix sugar in a garbage bag, just flip it around and it mixes with ease and no mess. Then put it in your pan and and heavy cardboard on top. Then flip it over and remove the mold. Let try a few days. No need to bake unless your in a hurry. My bees go six month's without a cleansing flight.
Hey Kamon Reynolds - Tennessee's Bees
I am not an apiarist but hoping to be one in the near future. I would like to respond to your question about mite-resistant bees. In my studies about honeybees, I came to find out that Asian honeybees (Apis cerana), whose subspecies are Apis cerana indica and Apis cerana japonica, show resistance to an ectoparasite mite, Varroa Jacobsoni.
Where did you get your veil?
Thx, DS
If the dying battery wasn't intentionally staged to compact the Video Might I suggest the Milwaukee 1/2 " drill W/ 6AH Battery . Where can one purchase that veil ? Keep up the good work .
Do you need to put a piece of paper under the sugar brick to help contain it?
No you don't but some do
I have a 1 1/2 inch top spacer similar to yours, I'm trying the dry sugar method but instead of using newspaper to spread it over, I spread it in a cookie/bake pan. I have checked on the hives and the sugar has already somewhat started hardening which is great its drawing moisture and the bees are definitely eating it. I'm a new beekeeper, is this a good idea leaving a metal/stainless/not sure what its made of pan in the hive for the winter ?
How did it work? Wondering if fhe metal got to cold?
@@j.johnson2792 This did work however im no longer keeping bees at the moment. I had 4 hives and lost them all in the spring/summer, they just swarmed and left me beeless due to my lack of knowledge. Bees are amazing i definitely will try again when i'm older and have more time to dedicate towards it but getting back to my baking pan idea, I was thinking this would be less of a mess but looking back now the bees had to crawl to the edge which meant leaving the clutch in the cold. probably my next go around i would just drill maybe a 1-2 inch hole in the center and lay newspaper over that area.
Lol I can't say nothing about the battery because I'm guilty too ...but I agree , what might work fine for one bee keeper will not necessarily work for another... I thoroughly believe that the climate they live in is a controlling factor of what will or will not work... But thanks
You are probably right. What Kamon does in December I do in October because I'm in MN. Over a month since my bees have had a cleansing flight.
Kamon if I make a 1 lb brick how much vinegar should I use ?
I don't use any. I don't think it is necessary and if apple cider vinegar it could be harmful if they can't get a cleansing flight for a while due to the roughage
Hey Kamon, no comments from me on the hat - looks like others have that covered. I do have a question, though: how do you decide if it is too cold to open a particular hive? I have a couple that are causing me concern. We have been seeing days in the mid-40s lately. Thanks, Stu
Hey Stu most of hives we barely open in winter but if they need help we will open them in freezing weather. I prefer liquid feeding myself but this type of feeding will work in a pinch
It must be the massive amount of grey matter that is pressuring from inside!
I have a question about water for the bees duing winter. I live in northern utah. I opened my hives a week or 2 ago to check the sugar supply on the hives and noticed small masses of bees on the under side of the hive blanket. At first I thought there were trying to keep warm. But then i noticed that the wood chips were soaking wet where they were. So maybe they were trying to get water? Or maybe it was a combo of both. What do you think? Anyway the real question is how can i give my bees a supply of water in freezing temperatures. If that is what they are after?
Landon Nielsen bees need water in winter, most northern keepers have to throw snow on cluster to give them water. That’s why they are starting to ADD moisture to hives in colder climates, removing upper vents and bees are thriving. Look at Rick WILLIAMS
Landon Nielsen lots also feed sugar syrup in winter with lots of insulation, no upper vents and wide open entrance. Holds good moisture to keep them from dying of dehydration
@@George-nx5lo where do I find rick Williams
Looks like some funny color of water on the video. Are you sure it’s not vinegar? Thanks for all you both do. Happy holidays.
I’m sorry if this was offensive. It was just meant to be funny.
Not at all. I think there was some honey in that jar previously and I didn't bother to clean it out all the way.
Newbee question,, what is a cleansing flight and how do they do it
A cleansing flight is basically when they have been clustered for a long period and have plenty of fecal matter they need to rid themselves of. Bees for healthy reasons don't take a dump in the hive. When the weather allows for flying colonies will fly and unload. In a mild area this is hardly noticed. Up north the colonies will unload large amounts of fecal matter.
@@kamonreynolds thanks,, me been the dumbass I am, assumed they were cleaning themselves,, just found out bees can hold a poop for four weeks,, i can't hold a fart for four mins so I'm highly impressed by another bee fact
How about you put big digital thermometer , right on the top of the hive 15 minutes before the video, so we can understand what's going on on what temperature?????
Carniolan are famous for having brood all year round, however is not good to open the hive with temperature below 60, it will chill the brood and kill it.
That is not accurate. We do it all the time around 50 degrees and sometimes lower. Now if we left the brood frame outside of the hive for several minutes that would kill the brood but doing what we did won't hurt a thing. This hive is Italian.
At the USDA Bee Lab they have to grow mites for research because their hives are virtually mite free and they don't treat at all. Pollen today is not what it was 60 years ago. Studies show goldenrod pollen (what most beekeepers depend on for winter) has lost over 30% of it's protein content due to the increase of CO2 in the atmosphere.
That is what they keep saying but the 30 USDA Russians I purchased weren't so amazing. I would like to try some again in a test yard and see what happens. It just takes alot of money
@@kamonreynolds They really don't do Russians anymore. The strain was too hard to keep pure. Pure Russians are hard to come by these days. They are introducing a new strain they call the POL Line (Pollinator Line) this coming spring that has been bred for hygienics and honey production equal to non hygienic bees, but they are still like to swarm.
@@privatebubba8876 not surprising. So what are they Russian mutts or Italians?
@@kamonreynolds These are Italians. They are also involved with a queen producer in Hawaii that is originally from St. Martainsvlle LA. I was just doing some reading on Apis Cerana and the viruses they have in their hives. Here's a link onlinelibrary.wiley.com/doi/full/10.1002/mbo3.830 You can scroll down to the discussion to get the gist of the research.
Can you give a link to the info on USDA Bee Lab mite control prior to start of this research? Thanks!
amen about the vinegar, no reason to be inside a sugar brick, the essential oils are a scam too
I have yet to find a product that makes me think that the product was made to help bees and beekeepers more than it was to push sells. I have no problem with bee products. I love them in fact but I have no love for companies that boast on their bee saving products and have no way to prove it other than their word
Could you put this on top of inner cover?
Probably but I would want my bee under the inner cover instead of on top. Especially if you had a big cold snap.
its the shape of the hat.... looks nice
P.S. I lied about the hat. Couldn’t you get one in crimson? P.P.S. Laurel’s laugh is lovely.
Can I use organic sugar in place of pure cane sugar and would ultra bee help for protein? Thanks Jim in Fort Worth Texas
If the organic sugar is Refined you should be safe. It needs to have no mineral content. I don't feed protein till the maple pollen starts but Texas is further south. I don't know what the weather is like down there but typically dry is fed when the temps are 40's and 30's. There is alot of variables here.
Thanks, it has been about 30-45 degree here at night the past couple weeks. Wanted to stop making sugar water make sugar blocks like you showed. Can I start that before long and can I add ultra bee to the sugar blocks..... love your videos and have learned so much. BTW my wife is wondering when we will see your wife on a video? Thanks again... Jim and Judy
Sorry I asked about protein again.. read your reply again. Thanks for the organic sugar reply. Jim
Whoo, that looks awesome. Oh, I'm referring to the 🐝, not your hat. 🤠 😂
Question, do you keep your frame feeders in all year long? Asking because, I have some in mine and was wondering if they needed to be removed. Great job y'all
Location: North East Ohio here. Snow and cooold
My thoughts on pulling a frame out of the middle of the brood, is concern to possibly roll your queen. I am glad they are strong and she is laying, but losing the queen especially this time of year is bad, and I know you know that. We all have bad days, such as the battery going dead. But you don't want to lose a queen just to make a video. Keep up the good work. Listen to your wife.
the lid was off for a while and its cooler, you can virtually guarentee the queen ran down to bottom box
So can i use deep box for super ?
Absolutely. It is just very heavy
White sugar is sucrose, bees eat glucose and fructose. The bees can't convert dry sugar. Great way to save a starving colony but should not be a practice to overwinter on.
Best way, learn to properly assess a hives honey stores and feed it syrup to bring up to target weight early in the fall. So where to begin, weigh your hives or pull frames and make an assessment, is it light, should I feed? After winter weigh your hives, this will give you an average of, how much bee consume in your area to overwinter on. An easier way, ask a fellow beekeeper in your area with experience. Now every fall a month before cold weather usually begins, weigh your hive and feed it syrup so they can convert and cure syrup to target weight, asking bees to live off dry sugar (sucrose) is not a good practice, it is an emergency fix, nothing else.
Kamon...any announcement yet to where you will be speaking?
I should have location, times, and what not shortly. Just waiting for the go ahead.
Is the large box on top a super ?
Brood chamber. It will be used for an early split before the honey supers are used.
❤❤❤
I have a VSH queen and each time I treated there was zero mites on sticky board. I wish everyone had vsh queens. My other hive had plenty of mites. 2020 will be all vsh queens. Requeening non vsh queen.
My vsh never performed that good perhaps the strain you have works
@@kamonreynolds New River Honey bee aka Jason Briggs. He does a great job being a queen breeder. Plan on having a few Apiaries a few miles out round me with vsh drones. Hope to flood the skies.
I have also heard that the VFS can make a big difference. One study said they did great until the VHS hive robbed a dead-out full of mites.
Raise lots of VHS drones and share the genetics. LOL
If bees can be resistant to OA so can mites. Love your videos Kamon!
Peter Lue no mites can’t
@@George-nx5lo How often to use it?
Will overuse of oxalic acid result in its becoming just another “Silver Bullet” with a limited effective life, due to mites evolving resistance? I strongly suggest using it to knock back mite levels only once a year. Otherwise, we’ll just be breeding for OA-resistant mites-especially if you’re also using formic acid!
Conclusions
Oxalic acid appears to be an inexpensive, easy to apply, safe, highly effective, environmentally benign miticide to include in our arsenal of mite control weapons in an overall IPM strategy. It does have its limitations and problems, and the potential for personal injury if handled carelessly. The Europeans, Canadians, and New Zealanders (and myself) have embraced it wholeheartedly as a Fall/Winter, one-time treatment of the broodless cluster applied by the dribble method:
THIS IS ALL YOU NEED TO REMEMBER: Apply one time only: 3-5 ml of 2.8% w:w oxalic acid in 50% sugar syrup per seam of bees as soon as the colony goes broodless. Please see “The Learning Curve, Part 3” for updates!
It (or lactic acid) is a common feature of most IPM strategies. The important thing to remember is: if we use it judiciously, it will likely be effective for a long time to come. Misuse, by over treatment in concentration, or in number of applications per year, can be deleterious to the bees and brood, and would likely lead to the mites developing resistance to its mode of action.
Remember: oxalic acid is not yet registered as an approved miticide in the United States.
scientificbeekeeping.com/oxalic-acid-questions-answers-and-more-questions-part-1-of-2-parts/
Oxalic acid
Oxalic acid is the other common organic acid. As opposed to formic acid that kills mites with the acid vapours, the main way in which oxalic acid kills mites seems to be by direct contact.
There were some reports that oxalic acid may damage the mouthparts of the mite [35]. However, there is no scientific evidence for this and the origin of this concept seems to be a manipulated picture published on the Internet. What we do know is that oxalic acid needs to be in direct contact with the mite [36] and is distributed around the hive via bee-to-bee contact [37].
Given that oxalic acid has been shown to affect mitochondria in mammals [38] and that mitochondria are sensitive to acids [39], it is likely that oxalic acid, as in the case of formic acid, also affects the varroa mite by disrupting or affecting mitochondrial function due to the effects of low pH. This physico-chemical mode of action would explain why there have been no reports of mites resistant to oxalic acid.
pheromite.com/varroa-treatments-mode-action-resistance/
I have those same gloves. Water soaks in way faster than most leather. Aside from that, I like them, but I'd be disappointed if I had paid more than $5 for them. They have decent dexterity which may be better if I got a size smaller. Do you have a strong opinion on them? PS. Who cares about the shape of the hat if your head and ears stay warm?
We're are you located
I enjoy your videos..very informative for me being a first year BeeKeeper. I have 6 hives and they all seem to be doing well but most my hives only had maybe 3 deep frames of honey going into winter. I'm not sure that enough so I put a paper towel barrier with a 4lb bag of loose sugar on top all their frames. Is this good enough for now? I will be making the bricks like you did very soon. I also have a new HUNTING CHANNEL on UA-cam but may change up to add my Beekeeping videos. Go check it out if you get a chance. Thx and keep doing what you do..your videos are very helpful.
no additives
Чтобы ещё понимать что он говорит вообще хорошо было бы )
put a box on top add a cat and close
Ku e gjejnë ujin bletet per te tretur sheqerin
You know a women always say that what they say is correct 🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️🤷♂️. Lol hahahaha
Your head is weird, REALLY weird!!!