Spring Set Up for Honey in Single Deeps
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- Опубліковано 8 кві 2023
- Discussion and demonstration on taking colonies from double deep winter configuration back to single deeps for honey production and adding supers. Hives are balanced and brood pushed to the bottom deep for peak population to hit right at the nectar flow.
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That was one of the best single deep hive spring management video's that I've watched. Thanks so much for sharing your knowledge!
Thanks so much for the compliment!
I agree, this is great.. Thank you for the info!
Excellent description of masterful bee care. Thanks
Thanks for the feedback.
*Th is is excellent. I am trying single deep this year to get a good crop. This is what I was looking for. Appreciate Ya brother*
Awesome. Let us know how it works out.
Like how you explain step by step on what your doing. To better your video maybe show a frame or two on camera. Very much enjoyed your video. Watch a lot of videos, yours very nice
Thank you for the positive and constructive feedback. Thanks for watching.
That video was just what I needed. Thanks for the great info.
Glad it helped. Let me know if you have any questions.
Great job looks like your very close to get spring flow 🐝🐝💪
A little is trickling in. Frost and 33 degrees this morning. Our main spring flow kicks of typically around the 20th of April.
Really enjoyed the video , lots of great Info, thanks for sharing.👍👍👍
Thanks for the feedback.
Great and well explained video!
Glad you liked it!
Good job. Learned a lot, thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Well done sir! Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching.
Thank you for your video!
You’re welcome. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for that video very informative this my third year in trying to become a beekeeper and it is definitely fun but had no idea it was gonna become a second job but definitely enjoy it so far
It gets easier. Thanks for watching.
Thank you for this video! Great explanation and demonstration of your process!
Thank you for watching and the positive feedback.
Thanks for the feedback.
Thanks heaps, this video gives me the confidence to even things out!
Let me know if you have any questions.
I'm new to your channel. Nice Job with the video and explaining your process. Thanks for sharing.
You are welcome. Thanks for watching.
Super video. Was just taking to someone about this exact method. Great to see the full walk through.
Awesome. Glad you liked it and thanks for watching.
Thank you for the video
You're welcome
Great information. Going to use it this year, 2023.
Awesome.
Awesome, thank you
You're welcome!
Awesome suggestion!
Glad it was helpful!
Thanks! That's kinda what I was asking you about the other week. This helps out. Thanks for the video. I hope i see the queen as easy as you do. Lol
Awesome. Glad it helps. I plan to do something on strategies to find the queen soon.
Very nice video well explained. I am moving to single brood boxes this season and will replicate your method.
Best of luck with it.
Really enjoyed the video!! You even had a fly-over!! 😆 Those C-17's fly south over us in Yadkin heading down your way. A question....You put on the super with drawn comb first. Then what if you have some drawn comb but not enough to fill all your supers? A few comb towards middle and foundation on sides? Checkerboard drawn and foundation? What's best? Thanks for another great video!!!
I run 9 frame for surplus. I checkerboard the foundation in and ensure drawn comb is against both sides
I found out this odd spring I am going to have to invest in a lot of pollen traps . This year my brood boxes got plugged out with pollen so I could have gotten a lot of extra pollen. Well I can use a lot of it later also probably in around August . For the first time this year I did get a bunch of my colonies changed over to single brood for the flow . I have been wanting to try it for a few years now so far I really like them that way. THANKS
Awesome. Timing is everything on the swap. Too strong and they swarm. Thanks for watching.
I hate to waste the drone foundation between hive boxes. A lot of a little goes a long way and looking at drone brood you can judge your mites
I understand. Reason scrape there is the queen excluder won’t go on right. They build it right back under the excluder. Thanks for watching.
Thanks for the informational video. Early in the video, first colony, you moved a deep frame with mixed resources and bees from a colony in the middle of the row directly into the colony you were working. How is it that those bees with the queen pheromone from their hive will mix with the larger colony where they were stocked? Wouldn't there be a bunch of fighting because of the perceived queen mixing?
It depends on the time of year for doing this type of manipulation. If a little bit of nectar is coming in, you really never see an issue. Of course, you definitely don't want to overwhelm a colony with bees from another as this could cause some issues with the queen, but a frame here and there doesn't seem to cause issues. One trick is to carry a spray bottle of light sugar water. Lightly coat the bees on the frame before putting it in, and by the time the bees are done cleaning each other up, they are all best friends. :)
Thanks for the video. Could you make us a video on how you make your queens ? Do you use grafting or standard splits ? Thank you
That could be a series. We graft.
Ok looking forward to see it ! 👍
Like your method, thanks for the videos. For those running 8 frame equipment, is a single deep enough to run through the honey flow without lots of swarm pressures. How much do you need to look into the brood chamber after the flow kicks in?
That’s a little complicated to answer. If you take approximately 8000 cells per frame (25/sq in) and multiply by 8 frames, that’s 64,000 cells. Assume 80% is brood…that’s 51,200 cells for brood. Divide that by 21 days in a worker bee brood cycle, and you get a little less than 2,500 eggs per day. Most figures I have heard on queen capacity are around 2,000 eggs per day, but I have heard some edge toward 2,500. Either way, it seems plausible that an 8-frame has adequate capacity for brood. I would say however, in practice, managing in 10-frame colonies, the timing has to be near perfect or the bees will go into swarm mode. Once nectar flows start, they seem to forget about it. I would suggest trying it with a few colonies to see how it works in the 8-frame configuration before committing all you have to it.
As far as digging into the brood chamber after the flow begins…I don’t go back down there until the flow is over unless there is a problem. If the colony is roaring, declining in population, not making honey, or etc, I would look at those to that level individually. Other than that, check the brood after the flow.
That’s my opinions…everyone tweaks their methods a little different.
The only thing I see that you need to save that wax in a bucket lnstead of putting it on the ground. This would help with wax moth control and give you some extra wax for other things.
another healthy perspective. Thank you, I'm new to your videos .How is it you can take bees from all different hives and them not fight with one another?
It depends on the time of year and the method. If bees are bringing in nectar and actively raising young bees, they really don’t pay each other much attention. Early season balancing is a touch different. I will typically pull resource frames from hive and put them in a nuc or something all mixed up with each other. By the time I take them to another apiary to use on other colonies, their smells have all mixed up and they really don’t know who they belong to. Very little fighting with this method.
Ty
to get the queen to run up to innerlid, just tap with nuckles on both sides of brood
New subscriber here. Do the color of your boxes represent different things? Or you just paint the hives with whatever color paint is available on hand?
I enjoyed your video. I have been set up with single deeps for several years. I always end up with empty deeps when I equalize. I have been storing them by standing the hive body on end, so the frames are exposed to sunlight and air circulation. How or what method do you use to store your hive bodies?
I use a lot of my frames for nuc sales and other spilts. I try to only store the empty frames with no honey or pollen. I just stack them up and haven’t ever had significant damage.
Thanks for the video, im new to your channel what state are you in?
When you load the bottom brood box with capped brood and then queen excluder doesn't that cause over crowding and invoke the urge to swarm? I am a novice an trying to learn, thank you.
I done the single brood box last year an wow it produced honey great . I was not going to do it again this year but I would be stupid not to . For some reason one of my bee yards last season ended being light on bees going thru winter an my other yard is jammed full so
I have a bunch on balance work to do this spring. I have never had that to happen before with that much difference in my colony’s. You said you are over around Mocksville correct. ??. What kind of Bees do you use ??. Thanks
Yes. I am in Mocksville. We run an Italian bee. I love the single brood config for honey. Check out the balance video we have on here.
Great video! What type of queens do you use? Your bees seem very easy to work
Sorry if I'm asking something that you have already answered.
What time of year is it when you do this process? I know it's a couple weeks before your flow, but time of year is that for you?
Also, when you are building that bottom deep up to be strong, how many frames of brood are you wanting to have in that bottom box?
Lastly, if I am consolidating in order to build strong singles and I don't have enough brood from the hive I'm working in, can I pull extra brood frames from a different hive to fill up the one I'm working?
Thanks,
Brady
We raise our own queens and select for docility. They are primarily Italian. I do this operation 1-2 weeks preflight which is mid April for us. I have to judge the brood amount based on timing before the flow. ~5 frames of brood will peak in about 6 weeks. So if I’m 2 weeks pre flow, I’m shooting for about 7 frames of brood. 1 week preflow, 8 frames. Yes you can rob from other hives and equalize the brood.
So are you saying you start making queens....hiw many weeks ahead of flow? Thankyou!
Hello sir ,
Thanks for your videos .I am curious to know if you provide your bees with sugar candy in winter ? Is it fine to do that in the states amongst beekeepers ?
I live in the middle East
Thanks 👍🏻
What signs do you look for to know when the flow is on or coming.
“Wet shakes” are a common sign. If you shake a frame and nectar slings out, it’s fresh and not dried down. Also look for the tell tale white dot of pollen on the bee’s forehead for the tulip poplar flow. When bees start back filling brood cells, is another sign.
Would you consider the dandelion bloom your start of the flow or is that still too early?
I consider the dandelions as the beginning of swarm season. The actual flow for producing surplus honey is later. Here in the piedmont of NC, that begins toward the later third of April.
With a weak colony like this, would you re-queen if you know you are close to a flow?
How often do you replace the old queen? Some guys try to replace her every year.
I keep a few older queens around for 2-3 years but it’s because of the genetics I’m trying to keep in my apiaries for queen rearing. Generally though, most of my queens get replaced every year. With all the stressors on honeybees these days with pesticides, mites, viruses, and demand for high production, most get replaced via supercedure every year around sourwood season if we don’t do it ourselves.
HI, just found your video. Been having an issue with 1 hive, swarmed and I caught it with old queen put in another box.
I bought new queen for old hive and installed yesterday. Box is overflowing with bees but I found no evidence of a queen so that's why I chose to requeen. I added another deep because so many bees but after watching your video, I think I'll go back and take off that upper deep and just start adding a super to the single deep. There were no eggs, larvae or brood as of yesterday. What do you think? BTW, I'm waiting a few days to check that queen has been released so lots going on...
How long has it been since they swarmed? You could possibly have a virgin queen. From emerging, it takes about 11-12 days before she starts laying.
@@DysonApiaries it’s been about 2-3 weeks
Man, I wish I could heft those boxes like that! I need to lift weights or something! 😆
That is my weight lifting. They are pretty light right now though.
My bees propolize everything! Makes it that much more challenging...every box, every frame, the inner cover...everything! I know propolis is good, but it can be a pain!
@@originalwoolydragon8387 that’s a carni trait. They are good gentle bees but boy do they stick it together.
I'm torn between double pallets and single hives. Do you move all your colonies by hand or do you have something you use?
I move them with a hand truck or two-man carrier. It's backbreaking. I move supers and stuff around on pallets with a tractor. I've also considered moving to pallets.
Interesting way of managing hives. I have a friend who runs only single brood deeps year round with a queen excluder on. Some or your techniques are similar to his.
So, your brood frames are foundationless?
Since I had backyard bees and nowhere to move the splits to or when I added bees without brood, I would stuff the hole with enough grass they'd have to remove it and then reorient themselves to the new box. I also would spray added bees from another colony with Vanilla extract water as well as the hive I put them in so they wouldn't kill the queen or each other. I guess you don't worry about that happening?
We are not foundationless.
When I mix and match bees in splits I don’t have a problem with fighting. If adding bees to a queen rite hive, I limit how many bees I put in there to ensure they don’t attack the queen.
@@DysonApiaries in one of the weaker brood boxes you took out frames that didn't have the comb built out saying that's why you don't like to put foundation in the brood box. Did I get that right or did I miss something?
Yes. If the flow is not heavy or you are not heavily feeding they will not expand through the foundation and it will actually crowd them.
@@DysonApiaries I gotcha. I've never run foundation so I wasn't sure if that was the reason you said that. Getting some different perspectives. Thanks.
I have a long lang hive I build for a conversation piece that I used foundation strips just for the heck of it.
You pulled a Nuc off in the end of march where did you get a queen for those splits that early in the year?
Our first graft is the first of March every year. We start nucs with ripe cells.
@@DysonApiaries I look you up on the map I see you are near Statesville NC you must be a little warmer that early in the year.
That first round always gets sketchy with getting them mated on time. Typically takes them a few weeks to catch a decent day to fly.
I am wondering if you added queens to the nucs or did you allow them to build their own queen cell?
We graft queens. The nucs get a ripe queencell that will emerge within the next two days. You could also install a mated queen in a delayed release cage.
@@DysonApiaries How long do you leave the queen in the delayed release cage before releasing to the colony?
@@seibelcrs the candy plug will keep the queen in the cage a couple days. Dependent on the season, sometimes I put masking tape on to delay another day or so.
Where did u get your magnetic belt that holds the hive tool? Thx
On average, how much honey do you get off each single deep brood management?
I’m happy if I have a 100 lb average across the colonies for each flow (spring wildflower and sourwood). Last year the spring flow let me down and I was at about a 70 lb average but sometimes I exceed the 100 lb average.
I run 8 frame deeps, will the single brood box method work, or do they need to be 10 frame? Thanks
That’s becoming a theme that I wished I’d answered in the video. Copied from a previous comment below.
That’s a little complicated to answer. If you take approximately 8000 cells per frame (25/sq in) and multiply by 8 frames, that’s 64,000 cells. Assume 80% is brood…that’s 51,200 cells for brood. Divide that by 21 days in a worker bee brood cycle, and you get a little less than 2,500 eggs per day. Most figures I have heard on queen capacity are around 2,000 eggs per day, but I have heard some edge toward 2,500. Either way, it seems plausible that an 8-frame has adequate capacity for brood. I would say however, in practice, managing in 10-frame colonies, the timing has to be near perfect or the bees will go into swarm mode. Once nectar flows start, they seem to forget about it. I would suggest trying it with a few colonies to see how it works in the 8-frame configuration before committing all you have to it.
As far as digging into the brood chamber after the flow begins…I don’t go back down there until the flow is over unless there is a problem. If the colony is roaring, declining in population, not making honey, or etc, I would look at those to that level individually. Other than that, check the brood after the flow.
That’s my opinions…everyone tweaks their methods a little different.
Thanks!
Can you do this if you don't have mini drawn comb..
Unsure exactly which part you are referring to. The brood box or the surplus supers?
Good afternoon, greetings from Ukraine, what can you say about the beehive, the Dadan box?
Are you referring to the Langstroth hive?
@@DysonApiaries No, I have a Dadan hive, what can you say about the Dadan hive, have you ever encountered them, write your review for the Dadan hive?
The bull is calling his girls
That’s just all the girls being mouthy.
What state are you from?
I wish I could find somebody local I could help for a year that way I could do it right the one guy I know close he swears up and down I know more than I do . I will admit I don't lose bees like he does but I think if I could get somebody show me I could make more honey than I do I have eight hives and seven little and I usually end up with 4 to 5 gal of honey on each one of my biggest one
My goal is to average 90 lbs per production hive. Where you at?
@@DysonApiaries South Carolina.. this will be my fifth year I bought a 5 frame nuke then two months later I bought a queen from the same man. It was late summer did not make no honey I pretty much had to feed. Then the next spring my two hives got swarm cells I broke them down l ended up making 20 that year. I'm making a little bit of honey. I Sold 10 of the hives. And that's how I pretty much have been doing it ever since
2 to 20 is a pretty big jump. Hard to get that many splits and still make honey. Focus on them peaking at the right time, managing the swarm impulse, then making the splits after the flow.
@@DysonApiaries first-year no honey second-year a little bit. last year was 5 bucket
I think your bull wants that cow bad
😂 I just weaned some calves. It’s calm there now compared to last week.
did you know thats why humans had a queen from watching bees its just a pitty we never stuck to the law of the bees we would not be in the mess we are in now 🤨