Tony, this is PRICELESS. This answered literally all the questions I have always had about Nippons (“but was afraid to ask”)🏆 You really should make a BMX Encyclopedia for all who really want to know their bikes, and your info is always spot on, precise and reliable. Thanks for doing this!🙏
Great video. I guess the 87 stamped 883 on my haro is a 882L with a 86 allen head bolt. I know this because i had to use 2 copper sleeves for the arms and i had bought the arms just loose and used 86 hardware i had extra. Another video you could do is one for the tech 7's and variants what had the same bodies but triggers were different and also explain when the tech 77's came out and the later repops 👍
I replaced the center pull bottom rear brake on my 87 Pro Performer with the Nippon back in 88 Ordered from an ad in Freestylin’ magazine. I never would have guessed all these vintage bmx parts would be so valuable.
Yes….I modified my 883 for sealed 12mm x 6mm ball bearings. Pressed in and Loctite 609 was used. I mentioned it in the video as it’s captioned on the still photo.
Awesome video , agreed tomorrow is not guaranteed and we thank ya brother for these videos. SO yes the 883 “Nippon” especially the Allen bolt usage has puzzled me since buying by mistake a recessed bolt and not wanting to drill out my fork til I found a replacement longer Allen. In searches for replacement until Porkchop recent came out with on there was nothing unless one popped up on museum. I’ll add to this video for note I’ve gotten a rear 86 Nippon that used 6mm to 7mm by 7mm tall/long BUSHINGS to make the acorn bolt work. The 882L like you mentioned is definitely a smaller 6mm hole and one could use the acorn bolt but finding the bushings even on McMasterCarr was impossible. Had to be that making a bolt that changes diameter along its length cost too much. Read once that the word Nippon had to be removed for copyright infringement but can’t find the date that was enforced. Thanks again!
Absolutely the 7mm bolt was way more expensive to fabricate. The word Nippon was simply removed because they were no longer manufactured in Japan. It was controversial because some of the crossover had both Nippon and versions without. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi there super informative video Thanks much I happend to bave a nippon stamp brake but only said nippon i have no info of it and never seen another Maybe u know something 😏 about it 🤔
Bici Family I have no idea who could have made it but I have my suspicions that the mfg was not Dia Compe but perhaps the design was leased. Like the green Minerva at the end of the video.
Definitely learned something! Don't have any experience with Nippons/883 style brakes, but still very interesting nonetheless. Keep up the great work bro, you're an encyclopedia of vintage BMX! 😎
What a great video!! Awesome research. This is the content i look for. I love geeking out over this stuff. Im really interested in the bearing conversion you did. Im a machinist and have often thought about this, but was worried the arms would slide off the bearings under forward load. Also, what size bearing is that? Thanks again
Trent Kooken I was always thinking about the ACS BoA and its ball bearings and the slop between the 6mm pivot bolt and the holes on the 883 is .007-.008”. That’s 0.0035” per side and too much for my liking. When you pull the brake lever most of the energy goes into removing the clearance as you can see the arms deflect. You need a 12mm, 2 or 3 fl end mill. Depending on your runout you might need to punch the counter bore but I didn’t have to do that. Bearings are RC car stuff. 12mm x 6mm x 4mm sealed. Practice on a test piece of aluminum first then send it home. A Kurt vise and a Bridgeport is all you need. Not a drill (that’s not aimed at you, it’s for the people that are going to read this and think a drill is a drill press or mill). Loctite 609 when you press and that’s it. Works really nice. Zero deflection now. All the energy from the pull goes to squeeze the pads.
Great video. This was super interesting!!!!
Great to see you here Matt!
@@monkist Right on. Likewise 👊
Thanks! I appreciate you watching and commenting.
Tony, this is PRICELESS. This answered literally all the questions I have always had about Nippons (“but was afraid to ask”)🏆
You really should make a BMX Encyclopedia for all who really want to know their bikes, and your info is always spot on, precise and reliable. Thanks for doing this!🙏
Great video. I guess the 87 stamped 883 on my haro is a 882L with a 86 allen head bolt. I know this because i had to use 2 copper sleeves for the arms and i had bought the arms just loose and used 86 hardware i had extra. Another video you could do is one for the tech 7's and variants what had the same bodies but triggers were different and also explain when the tech 77's came out and the later repops 👍
Great info! Thanks
I replaced the center pull bottom rear brake on my 87 Pro Performer with the Nippon back in 88 Ordered from an ad in Freestylin’ magazine. I never would have guessed all these vintage bmx parts would be so valuable.
At 7:13 those look like sealed bearings in the pivot holes.
Yes….I modified my 883 for sealed 12mm x 6mm ball bearings. Pressed in and Loctite 609 was used. I mentioned it in the video as it’s captioned on the still photo.
As always, another great vid!!! Unfortunately, I always swapped my dia compe brakes for odyssey…. Thought the holes were way cooler. lol
The looks were great on odyssey but performance not as good but as i was young i also like the odyssey alot,lol
@@MorbidThrasher666 💯... but who knew at 12yrs old. You've got some nice rides yourself!!
Awesome video , agreed tomorrow is not guaranteed and we thank ya brother for these videos. SO yes the 883 “Nippon” especially the Allen bolt usage has puzzled me since buying by mistake a recessed bolt and not wanting to drill out my fork til I found a replacement longer Allen. In searches for replacement until Porkchop recent came out with on there was nothing unless one popped up on museum. I’ll add to this video for note I’ve gotten a rear 86 Nippon that used 6mm to 7mm by 7mm tall/long BUSHINGS to make the acorn bolt work. The 882L like you mentioned is definitely a smaller 6mm hole and one could use the acorn bolt but finding the bushings even on McMasterCarr was impossible. Had to be that making a bolt that changes diameter along its length cost too much. Read once that the word Nippon had to be removed for copyright infringement but can’t find the date that was enforced. Thanks again!
Absolutely the 7mm bolt was way more expensive to fabricate. The word Nippon was simply removed because they were no longer manufactured in Japan. It was controversial because some of the crossover had both Nippon and versions without. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi there super informative video
Thanks much
I happend to bave a nippon stamp brake but only said nippon i have no info of it and never seen another
Maybe u know something 😏 about it 🤔
Bici Family I have no idea who could have made it but I have my suspicions that the mfg was not Dia Compe but perhaps the design was leased. Like the green Minerva at the end of the video.
@@atrains im gonna take a foto tomorrow and try to post it not sure if it is possible but i try
Definitely learned something! Don't have any experience with Nippons/883 style brakes, but still very interesting nonetheless. Keep up the great work bro, you're an encyclopedia of vintage BMX! 😎
What a great video!! Awesome research. This is the content i look for. I love geeking out over this stuff. Im really interested in the bearing conversion you did. Im a machinist and have often thought about this, but was worried the arms would slide off the bearings under forward load. Also, what size bearing is that? Thanks again
Trent Kooken I was always thinking about the ACS BoA and its ball bearings and the slop between the 6mm pivot bolt and the holes on the 883 is .007-.008”. That’s 0.0035” per side and too much for my liking. When you pull the brake lever most of the energy goes into removing the clearance as you can see the arms deflect.
You need a 12mm, 2 or 3 fl end mill. Depending on your runout you might need to punch the counter bore but I didn’t have to do that. Bearings are RC car stuff. 12mm x 6mm x 4mm sealed. Practice on a test piece of aluminum first then send it home. A Kurt vise and a Bridgeport is all you need. Not a drill (that’s not aimed at you, it’s for the people that are going to read this and think a drill is a drill press or mill). Loctite 609 when you press and that’s it.
Works really nice. Zero deflection now. All the energy from the pull goes to squeeze the pads.
What year was the DC883Q made
I have to search again but it was mid to late 90’s.