Installing AC Condensate Drain With Clean Out Port
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- I am replacing an air conditioner’s condensate p-trap. In its place I am installing a new condensate trap with a clean out port. The clean out port on a condensate line assist with maintaining a free flowing drain line. I am using 3/4” pvc, 3/4” p-trap, 3/4” tee, 3/4 union, 3/4 male pipe adapter, and a 3/4 pvc cap.
Air conditioning condensate lines clog up if not maintained. Clogs can either shut down the ac unit or flood through a ceiling. I flush water through every drain making sure they are clean.
Thanks for the video, I’m prepping for a trip to the home improvement store to pick up supplies. Just walked into a soggy closet that lead me to a clogged HVAC drain in the garage unit. Like yours, mine didn’t have a drain and I can only imagine the nastiness that is in that pipe.
The guy that replaced our air conditioner took the copper line out. Replaced with black Pex pipe and left it draining underneath house.
Thank You for your video
👍🍀
Oh, Yes!!!! Your video helps me a lot in my quest to decipher what's still wrong with our Home Depot Rheem HVAC NIGHTMARE installation back from June 2018. The Saga Continues....
Same issue! They sent the condensation line directly under my mobile home 🙄 now I have to figure out a way to NOT have it drain directly under my house (which causes musty odors and mold!) Never again will I use Home Depot subs! The water heater installer I used through Home Depot also put the t&p valve directly into the bellyboard under the house! I never knew it was leaking until I had to go under the house for another issue and found the bellyboard nearly touching the ground because it was full of water 😢 Such a waste of money!
@@ejanekendig1984 Sorry to hear about your particular Home Depot "nightmare". Too late I discovered that a faulty installation only brings more problems...which seems to be your situation, too. Hope you will be able to decipher and correct it. UA-cam is such a learning option, This is a photo of my fixed line: drive.google.com/file/d/1Cqmq39M3IuOp5OQ7CHeM5gX9V7do1rd3/view?usp=sharing
Oh no! Home Depot work is always a disaster. I stick with the smaller shops whose owner is directly involved. I'm sorry for everyone who's going through this..
Don’t forget the vent pipe, a p-trap is always followed by a vent pipe……
For sure. Lines aren’t insulated either. Condensation on them with the cold water draining will drip on the floor
For a negative side installation 🤔….. i dnt think so. Referencing the “always” part.
I just need to be sure how to clean the drain because the drip pan is leaking but once I accomplish that, I want to add the P trap and clean out. This unit is 22 years old and if it's ever been cleaned out, I am not aware of it! Appreciate watching how you are doing this!!
Good, detailed video. My unit has no cleanout, so I guess I'll be installing one. Thanks!
Fantastic video. Helps me immensely. Thank you !!
Nice work! 👍
Thanks for making this video. My AC unit did not have a clean out installed and your video helped me put one in.
Glad it helped
@@howtohvac3234 thanks for posting the video. I just had the same drain setup and now my bathroom sink is gurgling whenever the vent or AC is on. Will adding a vent to the drain line help resolve the problem?
Amazing step by step tutorial. Thanks a lot!
One thing to be careful about is that when you dry fit PVC, the pipe will not go all the way into the fitting. But when you put glue on it, it will sink in all the way. So if you cut something and dry fit, it can be just a little short when you glue and fit it. And you want to apply the cement quickly after the primer as you must apply the cement before the primer dries (about 10 seconds). This is according to the instructions on the glue.
Very detail, and useful for me, thank you so much
I super like how AC techs have good flashlights!
We need them. Work in very dark places often
If you are talking about the flickering, that is probably because it is LED. You can't see it with your eye, but you can with a camera.
Nice video. Got a lot out of it. Like the union idea. In the freez zones the trap is in or over the pan. Unit is elevated higher in the pan.
I am in the freeze zone. Yet by the time my attic gets that cold the trap is usually dry. Yet because I am in the freeze zone I always have a clean out port on top of trap. This way on maintenance I can send a gallon through. Have seen drains that sag or run flat freeze. Pvc traps almost never freeze yet the clear easy clean traps seem to freeze and break. Prevents an angry customer when they start using ac and water comes through ceiling.
Unions work great!
Thank you- just what I needed 😇
Sounds like hank from breaking bad, thank you for the video, saved me a call.
I had a call like this. Over time the air handler foam pads lowered from the weight which caused the trap to move upward because it was right on the Platform. This caused it to not drain. Also the trap could be moved after the union down stream after the platform and above the ceiling and you could just use a tee clean out on the outlet.
Awesome detailed video ! Thanks!
great video!
Nice video, thank you!!
where is the drain kill switch? I also like a VENT after the trap. You can use PVC glue without primer on ANY non pressured LINE and might make it easier to remove the glued pieces later if needed. Once primed and glued, its done.
Nicely done. A second union between the T and the Handler pan drain would had made the P-trap removable in case you need to take it out and clean it.
Thank you...
At least they put a p-trap! The moron who did ours didn’t - and I only discovered this when our ac started shutting off. They didn’t have a p-trap despite the large sticker warning on the air handler, and the crud actually was stuck in the vertical line going into the floor. We also got an idiot surveyor that didn’t do his job and didn’t find the plethora of crap around the house. So I’m discovering all these things myself and fixing them - properly.
Hard to find good help these days. Sloppy and cutting corners.
My unit was installed just a couple years ago and there is no P-trap. The P-trap does not help prevent buildup, does it? How? I thought it just prevented gases from coming in? Yet, in this case, there is no gas. It’s just the outdoor air for me because the condensate drain goes directly to the outside outside. Which begs the question, isn’t it pointless for me to have a P-trap on mine? I definitely want to add a Tee clean out!
That trap likely won't be tall enough if you have a negative pressure system (fan after the cooling stage) - looks like its only a max of ~2" H2O so with enough suction it won't drain at all while the unit is running (and will draw outside air in up though the vent). Air bubbling up the vent causes contamination with dust & debris. For positive pressure (fan before cooling stage) its fine.
I did all of this be the air handler hanging in my garage is still leaking from the end farthest away from the drain. I through a level on top and found the air handler has a slight angle toward that direction. Would it be an issue to drop the one side just enough to get the water to flow in that direction? Is there something else I’m missing? Thank
This was great thanks
Glad you enjoyed it!
When I'm gluing, I always put a thin layer of glue IN the fitting or coupler AND on the pipe. If you have a sharp edge on the pipe you can inadvertently push the glue out with an edge. Not saying using glue ONLY on one side is a "bad" thing, but in my experience, I've seen joints fail just from them having a sharp/rough edge pushing glue out. Just food for thought.
1. I'm running it to a condensate pump but the P-trap is right before the pump. Does that make a difference? Everywhere I've seen has the trap right at the beginning. 2. How long do I have to wait before I can turn on the AC and run water through it after I have joined all the pipes? Fantastic video by the way. I'm working on a rental and the AC went out. Figured out it was a clogged line so I cut it and cleaned it out. Wanted to install a cleanout which I can now thanks to you. This will be instrumental in me refitting everything. Thank you.
Where is the secondary drain out of the unit into the secondary drain? I do not see it? Also I hear depending on your type of system gas or electric the T should be vented not capped and on electric it should go after the P trap?? This is just what I have been told because my system did not have the secondary drain into the pan and I ended up with a mess on my hands. Rusted out secondary pan and my attic access is like 2'x2' try getting a 60"x30" pan into that attic and then replumb everything correctly.
Would installing a vent help with draining issue?
1/4" drop per linear foot,,, Simple fix.... Raise air handler... Blue glue is your friend (wet/dry abilities)
when leaving a/h drain line; put jones valve in 1st, then cleanout tee (capped off/no glue) then p trap then union. armor flex last. all done
Why do you need to prime and glue the joints if the contents are not under pressure?
Still want the fittings sealed. Water can leak out of unsealed fittings. Think of what the pipe looks like inside the fitting. Water will find a way to leak through anything.
Thanks my unit was set up similar to yours and did not have a clean-out and flat P-Trap! Why would any installer not do so for a system in an attic is beyond me. In fact, we have had an HVAC service company out a few times over the years and they didn't recommend it?
If they're honest, they'll recommend it. If they're not honest, they won't say anything because they know they'll be back.
Can water freeze in the p trap? I just replaced one that was so cracked that i can only imagine it was ice that did it.
In happened to a furnace I had at work in Canada. After some discussion I added a small AC pump heater to the replacement, if I recall it wastes about 8 watts but its never happened since.
I normally install a t before and after the ptrap. Especially if the drain line is super long, you must have an open t after the p trap
Hi, Christopher, if I only have 1 vent, before the p trap, do you recommend leaving it uncapped even if there is cold air loss? I was worried about losing too much air into my attic so taped the vent shut, but I think that is resulting in water backing up because now there is drainage coming from my secondary pan when there used to not be any. Any thoughts would be appreciated!
@@joicebass3725 the reason you have water backing up is because of the missing open clean out after the ptrap, thats why technicians should get in the habit of having 2 ts,. The one before the ptrap should always be capped. See airhandlers are negative pressure, because the motor is above the coil, so when system is running it tends to suck air,not allowing the system to drain properly. Have a company come out to install a t after the trap.
Thank you for the tip. I've got to call to repair a drain line
Why is there a burn spot on your air handler, just above where the suction line exits?
Whoever installed it probably burnt it
They added a pump to one of mind and the clean out is ran to it ? So should i run bleach thru the pan hoping clean that pipe or send it thru the pump?
Use vinegar instead of bleach
I need to replace mine. It broke at the threaded fitting and some was left inside. What's the best way to remove the piece of fitting left inside?
use an easy out tool
Thank you for the great tips!
Is the installer (who is licensed and insured) responsible
for water damage caused by the failure of the missing (Never
Installed!) secondary condensation drain to emergency pan from the air handler to handle water
when the Primary Condensation Drain fails?
The manufacturer's installation instructions for
an air handler located in an uninsulated attic over living
space in a hot, humid, tropical environment says BOTH a
"Primary Condensation Drain and a Secondary Condensation
Drain should be installed."
A secondary drain could be a drain pipe from pan out of attic. Yet in many places a drain overflow switch, can be used instead of secondary drain. Damage from a plugged condensate line falls on the homeowner, or the company performing annual maintenance on the ac system.
@@howtohvac3234 Thank you for your prompt response!
Are the installation contractors responsible for
damage if the manufacturer's installation instructions were not followed? The secondary condensate drain that should
have been installed to carry water out of the air handler and into the emergency pan was never installed.
@@howtohvac3234
Your secondary condensation drain is still plugged. It is
the red plug just to the left of your primary condensation
drain. This secondary condensation drain should carry water
out of the air handler's internal pan and into the emergency
pan when the primary drain fails. Both drains should be
properly trapped.
The drain from the emergency pan to the outside is a
separate drain tube that will carry water out when the
primary fails.
I was taught that a 'vent' tee is required downline from the trap to prevent siphoning, which can repeatedly empty the trap. Is this not true or required?
That is true. DO NOT copy this install. You need a vacuum breaker downstream of the trap. Otherwise just like holding your finger on top of a straw. It will not drain properly.
You got that right
Maybe the vent is further down around the corner . if not he is an idiot
Nice video. Is an air vent needed downstream of the trap? I've seen some say that it is.
I was wondering the same thing!
Great video! ? I keep hearing missed things regarding a vent, after the p-trap. Some people say you need it some say you don't. Why didn't you install one or maybe you did at a later time.
@jodeci8883, I had the same thought, and was going to ask this question... Hopefully we'll get a answer. :)
Here's why they don't put a clean out port in the condensate line. It's added income to the service tech. When we can't DIY, we have to call a service tech at $80/hr + parts. A clean out port wold make it easy for many homeowners to DIY.
I put a clean out on every unit I work on. It makes it easy for me to clean drains on my maintenances. Keeping drains clean is one of the most important part of maintenance. A plugged drain that ruins a ceiling cost me money. I install clean outs for free on all AC systems I service. I charge $120 an hour for service. That is the average labor rate in north New Jersey
@@howtohvac3234 good decision & worth it.
@Dan Burch from my experience and knowledge of being in this trade I can tell you that it's more of bad practice on the installer's part of not putting one. I myself make sure to put one on every job that I do an install on just because it makes PM so much easier and also makes the service go by faster so I can move onto the next call. I don't think it is on purpose that one doesn't get installed, just more of a bad practice on the installer's part ( maybe the installer doesn't do service's or PM or maybe they had a new hire do the drain to wrap the job up and it got over-looked before they left the job ). Im pretty sure this one wasn't done on purpose so they would get called back a year later for when the drain gets clogged. *Just my thought on your comment *
Hercules Pro-Dope is oil based and not recommended for PVC, or other plastic piping.
How's the Reme Halo unit performing? First I've heard of this device.
I like the reme halo. Put many of these in. The guy I deal with at my supply house talked this one up. Took him 3 weeks for me to get this back in early April 2020. Easy to put in yet unit wasn’t cheap. There is a newer LED version of this UV lamp. I keep my fan constantly running to help clean up the air of dust and any bacteria, mold, or germs. It sterilizes or kills viruses.
Good video safe my day to pass inspection
honestly, that's scary to hear!
Shouldn't you have the secondary draining into the pan so the float switch would cut off the compressor if it got stopped up? Just asking....I'm trying to learn as much as possible about hvac....47 year old 2year in the trade guy....
There is a float switch inside the emergency drain pan. You really don’t need to send a secondary drain on the unit into the drain pan. The drain pan crumbs you really don’t need to pipe secondary drain off the unit into the drain pan. The drain from emergency pan overhangs the gutters. Therefore, if water is leaking out the customer knows to call for service. Yet if both drains back up then the float shuts down the ac. The float is the third safety. Many nj inspectors will fail jobs if emergency pan isn’t piped
Hello - i have a few questions... this looks similar to what we have in our attic. What if the clean out isn't capped off, does that cause problems? If you know there is a clog and want to use the air compressor to push the clog out of the drain, can you use the clean out spot or is it better to create one of those sections where you can easily take the PVC apart?
If it's ur house,you shouldn't care..only if it's not urs
If you have a tee on yours like he installed on his, it should definitely be capped. You can look up static air pressure. Basically it will pull in air so much that water will stay in your pan and potentially overflow. As far as the air compressor, I feel like that is preference based. In my opinion air is a quick solution to get it clear, but flushing with bleach or vinegar will probably suit you better.
The T should never be capped off , leave it open
If you want to hear the 60minutes intro, just go to 19:12 .
Lo que quiero saber si la T se le pone después de la tranpa o antes ?????
Debe de ser una antes para limpiar y una después para ventilar
Water wouldn't leak from the union piece?
Unions created a sealed fitting compression with a o-ring
Is the WIER of the trap deep enough per negative water column in that pull through air handler? Should always vent after trap for proper drainage. Always good practice to use teflon tape ( NO PETROLEUM BASE PIPE DOPES) they soon eat the thiner part of the male and female threads on the pan or pvc. Rheem did feature female thread brass connections no tape needed. That stand/secondary pan is junk IMO. Unit should be 4" higher, and the "gunk" in the drain lines is more than one issue in that install.
I didn’t install this unit but inherited it. The drain pan is junk. I remember when I came out they swore you could run it over with a van. So many of these pans cracked over the years. I need to redo my ductwork. Yet m planning on getting ride of this ac and putting 2 units. A first floor second floor system. Just the owner of this system is cheap and wants me to work for free. Therefore when I finally have time I will get to it. Most drains gunk when not cleaned out for 9 years. I am most likely hanging the systems one over the other when I do install the new units. To have more attic space. For this system I have to up the return size. 14x30 is too small for a 4 ton
@@howtohvac3234 I lent my hand for the return of grace many times in my career. Right now you have ability, but it will not last. Getting paid is the real trick of the trade. No good deed goes unpunished. You are on the right track with R/A. Deeper R/A cans help (22") and come off the side with the flex. The 14X30 was so they did not half to head out the stud bay. HA! There is a right way. There is a wrong way, And there is a way to make money. Being the guy with the wheel barrel and shovel behind the parade never pays. Rarely was I able to stack two units let alone hang them. Think that was mostly a commercial application or basement. Can the rafter handle it. Never hang from masonry/ tile roof.
Primer is not cleaner. Primer melts the pvc to allow the glue to weld the pipe and fittings together. Without it, it’s just like taping the pipe together.
Explain what a “remy halo” is, plz.
LMGTFY: Reme Halo. Whole Home In-Duct Air Purifier.
I dont understand why you cant just look it up, you got this far
Trap and vent, just like any plumbing fixture.
Vents not really needed on these drains. Trap is necessary if drain is on negative side of blower. If on positive side, inspectors require the trap yet system would drain same if not better without
Sounds like Mikey Pipes?
If the evaporator coil is under a negative pressure (draw thru) the vent should be upstream of the trap as shown in this video. If the coil is under pressure (blow through) the vent should be down stream of the trap, otherwise air pressure from the fan will blow out through the vent.
If you didn't install the HVAC system, how can you tell which one you have?
@@sicsempertyrannus226 Put your hand over the open vent and if air is blowing out then it's under pressure, meaning the fan is blowing through the coil rather than drawing it through.
Rob Michael
I have a downdraft air handler, the a coil is on top, and blower is underneath pulling air through the a coil from above and sending air through ductwork below. What do I have, + or -, and where do I put the vent cleanout. right now there isn't any trap, or vent, but water is draining out outside.
Thanks.
@@remichalI have a downdraft air handler, the a coil is on top, and blower is underneath pulling air through the a coil from above and sending air through ductwork below. What do I have, + or -, and where do I put the vent cleanout. right now there isn't any trap, or vent, but water is draining out outside.
Thanks.
@@robertbelknap If the fan is pulling air through the coil, like yours, it's a draw thru and the coil is under a negative pressure. The trap is there to prevent sewer gasses and insects ( if it drains onto the ground) from getting back into the air handler. The vent prevents siphoning. In your case the vent needs to be between the air handler and the trap.
where’s the vent line
Dude why couldn’t they raise the unit up higher.
Where’s the vent pipe after the pee trap. Unions not necessary either
The issue of drainage is important so that if there is not a water trap, the blower generates turbulence and the water that condenses does not seek its cause and seeks the exit on the other hand generating liquid but another detail is how they do the laying of the copper pipe without any professional ethics but that is thrown away is how it falls and here in the USA it is our daily bread. For the most part, the video is good.
Please go back to school.
It's wrong, read the manual how secundary line drop the water on drain pan of the air handler?
How do you tell someone they're wrong and ask a question at the same time?
Good job 👏 🙏 Thanks for the tutorial
@2:04, that PVC line is too old, that is why you crashed it.
I've had brand new pvc do that to me. I actually found that the copper pipe cutters work great on smaller pvc pipe, especially if it is old and/or brittle.
Good luck screwing the P section out of the unit with only the one barrel union fitted. A second union next to the T piece would have made it a fully professional job. Just sayin!!!
Why would I want to unscrew the p-trap? I never unscrew a trap, unless replacing a coil. The union is only to help clear a stubborn restriction.
@@howtohvac3234 I think he's saying if you put a 2nd union between the outlet and tee, the whole trap section could be removed to be cleaned. My only issue with that would be that it may create a possible restriction at the fitting. I would personally use a 3/4" fernco on both ends so there's no lip inside for gunk to get stuck on.
Whoever brazed those lines didn’t use a fire blanket or brazing putty lol
PROBABLY YOU should watch a video of a proper way to set up CONDENSATE DRAIN
This drain is properly set up. I have piped in a few thousand drain lines.
Can you include yt link to your video on how to properly install a drain line
@@FernandoRodriguez-ds5ri as soon as make one. My ceiling caved in upstairs on a drain line similar to the one you posted. I used a j trap for the one I replaced it with
@@FernandoRodriguez-ds5riProbably still working on it…lol😂
Your ptrap is backwards
It's a D trap 😂
First off with all that insulation laying there on the roof of the house inside the attic with you you need a respirator you’re gonna come out of their coffin if you don’t
He'll be alright, he's a professional.
Terrible
What is terrible?
@@speedracer609 vent goes after the trap
Don’t need a vent on this drain. The clean out tee is not a vent
@howtohvac3234 yes I know the clean out tee is not a vent, but a vent is always required because vent after the tee allows air to enter the line to help push the water out, and let's say you have blockages over time a vent after the tee allows if any stagnant water causing odor to vent out and not get back into the system if the trap was not filled. Just like a toilet has a trap and vent that goes up and usually out the roof.
This guy is a clown. He left the whole
Pipe in the attic with zero pitch lmao
The drain line has a pitch water goes through. Very minimum. Yet I thought I mentioned I will be replacing this system soon. At that point I will raise up the air handler to give better pitch. Going 2 systems 1st and 2nd floor. You must be a ranger fan! insulting someone you don’t know. If you are a real devils fan, what was the chant 1940 about? that was heard often in Rutherford?
If there was zero pitch, why did all the water he poured through it drain out? If there is zero pitch, why is there a big gap under the pipe where the P trap is and less of a gap neat the other end of the pipe?
@@MAGAMAN the coil is the highest point lol that’s why if you did what he did in new Jerry’s it would fail inspection
@@MAGAMAN and I’m not talking in front of the unit my man take a closer look ;)
@@MAGAMAN he is changing the p trap why cause it’s junked up why is it junked up?
Great, easy to follow video. Thank you :)