Great video! On a positive system with an older furnace(not high eff) do you recommend putting T with a cleanout at P-Trap connection and also installing a vent past the P-Trap?
Thank you. Great info. My question is, if most of the drain line clogs are in the P-trap itself, how come you rarely see the clean outs inline before the trap? Secondly, should all of these connections be glued?
Good topic we actually deal with lots of condensation issues and especially in gravity lines in attics. I’ve learned just to go ahead and insulate those lines to avoid sweating issues
Have had issues with the EZ-traps not fitting together well even with priming all surfaces and gluing. Had a couple leak on me, went to a regular p-trap w/cleanout and a SS2 in the secondary and a pan switch of course.
I have found that using gorilla glue to connect the ez trap to pvc components to work well. Set time can take a bit longer, but it makes a water tight seal. I will prop something under the ez trap while it cures.
All the clear traps that you showed towards the end! They look like a one inch drop, would have been cool to know how you address that because the next slide shows a 2 inch drop from thr goodman manual. Which I am dealing with at this time. Thanks great video
Great video, very informative! I'm curious if you have any recommendations (and/or affiliate links) for P-traps that meet the requirements you showed. Having a hard time finding them at my local hardware stores and Amazon. Also, is there a good way to setup the p-trap and plumbing that allows for easy removal for evaporator cleaning/service?
Another great video. In my area there are many people who have relocated from other markets. Appreciate the ideas such as the red tape on the secondary overflow. While not required, some peeps are used to that courtesy
We launched new Gen 3 SS1 (and 2 & 3), they have a deeper base to addresses issues of build-up. Our Drain Guard has slow-releasing formula for six-month protection against white slime, maybe the slime from the Nordyne coil you experienced. Can you discuss what happens when you use Vinegar to clean primary drain lines. Too many techs promoting this; vinegar causes offgassing that IS harmful to soft metals (AC coil), and also considered to be carcinogenic.
Put float switch in the secondary drain pan that turns the unit off if it senses water in the secondary pan. Then you don’t have to answer phone at night and there will be no ruined ceiling.
we are remodeling our guest bath and under the sink is the condensation line, could i just change the plumbing to have it go directly into the sink drain pipe in the wall? or does it have to go to a trap ?
I have two units. The tray keeps filling and shutting off the downstairs a/c, there's never any water on the tray for the upstairs unit. I also noticed there's only a ptrap on the downstairs unit and neither of them have a vent for the drain line. -Should there be a ptrap on the upstairs unit? -should I install a vent on the drain line for either unit?
So theres all alum coils now which means no antimicrobial properties. How do we negate this? Copper! I use copper chips in my EZ trap. Soon I'll be buying some copper sulfate. Im using the amazon knock off ez trap and it works great. Im about to put a second primary on. Can you cover the diff types of coils and the drains they might need? Like for a bosch, it's a blow through. But a trane isnt. Thats important stuff. i dont know if you have covered it already but we are in cooling season and clogged drain line season lol.
I'd like to see a comparison of condensate drain installation for a blow-through system vs a draw-through system. I have a draw-through for one side of the house and a blow-through for the other side. It's a 2-story house and both systems are in the attic.
Our float switch has tripped twice in one month. It’s placed as a secondary line next to the primary line like the image you have at 2:26. I can see inside to where the ptrap is and inside the vent drain, neither are blocked/overflowing with water. Any thoughts on why the switch would still have condensation build up?
I have an upstairs a/c with no p-trap. That primary ties into the downstairs a/c then ties into the main grey water line with a p-trap. Do I need to add a p-trap upstairs as well? I do have a vent line coming off the primary upstairs a/c drain.
I have a 4.5 ton variable BOSCH air handler with a running trap and no vent, no clean out TEE. Looks like a no-brainer to install a clean out tee with unions either right before or right after the trap. I don’t understand if my running trap is acceptable or I need the deeper p shape. I’d like to have a little bit more knowledge before I proceed on my own or call the installer and question his technique.
So my AC drain pipe did not have a cap on it. I was told by the AC technician to put a cap on the drain pipe so I did but now the drain pipes are making noise every time the AC is on. Sounds like rain drops.. however, when I take the cap off, then there is no sound. Our blower motor have been replaced recently and we are having this issue after the new blower motor and once we cover the drain pipe with the cap please advise what can we do to fix this
Sounds like that there is excess water in the pan under the evap coil gurgling and not draining. It's probably all draining when the fan kicks off. Make sure the p trap is set right so that it holds water. Make sure the 2nd hole is sealed up too. There might be a partial obstruction in the pipe down the line and may need to be blown out. An hvac guy should be able to fix it in an hour tops. Gurgling isn't good.
My condensate drain has two vent stacks. One before and after the P-trap no drip pan as the air handler is outside. Air blows out the first vent before the P-trap when running. Is this normal? I'm in Arizona so the P-trap rarely fills up with water unless it's Monsoon season.
The vent before and after is a nice addition actually. In case the trap gets clogged, you can simply blow it clear. Though, keep the vent before the P-trap capped at all times unless clearing the drain.
To be clear, the name "vapor lock" might be the correct name used in the trade, but the phenomenon has nothing to do with vapor, and it doesn't really result in a lock. The problem arises if there are two traps within the drain. One you intended on, and another due to pipe sag (I call a, sag-trap). Let's say that each of the two traps in my example result in 3in of vertical water level per trap. With a vent between the two traps, the water entering the vertical pipe before the real trap, only needs to fill to a level of 3.1" (above the trap water level) to move water through the first trap. That same 3.1" of water will be enough to push water through the second trap. The water in each trap is dealt with in order. One, then the other. If there is no vent between the two traps, the two 3" vertical columns of water are connected by air that can not escape. This means there has to be 6.1" of water in the vertical pipe before the first trap in order to build up enough pressure to move the water in both traps simultaneously. No vent means the water in both traps have to move together. This requires higher head pressure to accomplish. Certainly, make sure the vertical pipe leading to the first trap from the unit, can contain a height of water that is greater than the water level in the real trap.
2:30 EMERG PAN LEVEL W/ EMERG DRAIN LINE= NOT CODE . 1/4" PER LIN FT NEG DROP (GRAVITY FED) IF HVAC IS INATTIC, CODE TO INSULATE (ARMORFLEX) PRI LINE 10'
I swear to you when I say that I purchased 2 new sea doo jet skis 2 years ago Just on installing correct traps and that this year I bought a new Wildtrak Bronco for cash for replacing, correcting these traps here in GA in all the new builds these joke builders are installing wrong. Every single house I go into I have the potential to make $400 cash above and beyond anything Im there for originally. If you focus on the small things you can make a full time job out of it alone. Parts cost $40 everything else is profit. So keep up the great work big builders we all know.
Great video! On a positive system with an older furnace(not high eff) do you recommend putting T with a cleanout at P-Trap connection and also installing a vent past the P-Trap?
Thank you. Great info. My question is, if most of the drain line clogs are in the P-trap itself, how come you rarely see the clean outs inline before the trap? Secondly, should all of these connections be glued?
Good topic we actually deal with lots of condensation issues and especially in gravity lines in attics. I’ve learned just to go ahead and insulate those lines to avoid sweating issues
Have had issues with the EZ-traps not fitting together well even with priming all surfaces and gluing. Had a couple leak on me, went to a regular p-trap w/cleanout and a SS2 in the secondary and a pan switch of course.
I have found that using gorilla glue to connect the ez trap to pvc components to work well. Set time can take a bit longer, but it makes a water tight seal. I will prop something under the ez trap while it cures.
Good to know.
All the clear traps that you showed towards the end! They look like a one inch drop, would have been cool to know how you address that because the next slide shows a 2 inch drop from thr goodman manual. Which I am dealing with at this time. Thanks great video
Great video, very informative! I'm curious if you have any recommendations (and/or affiliate links) for P-traps that meet the requirements you showed. Having a hard time finding them at my local hardware stores and Amazon. Also, is there a good way to setup the p-trap and plumbing that allows for easy removal for evaporator cleaning/service?
Another great video. In my area there are many people who have relocated from other markets. Appreciate the ideas such as the red tape on the secondary overflow. While not required, some peeps are used to that courtesy
We launched new Gen 3 SS1 (and 2 & 3), they have a deeper base to addresses issues of build-up. Our Drain Guard has slow-releasing formula for six-month protection against white slime, maybe the slime from the Nordyne coil you experienced. Can you discuss what happens when you use Vinegar to clean primary drain lines. Too many techs promoting this; vinegar causes offgassing that IS harmful to soft metals (AC coil), and also considered to be carcinogenic.
You're so smart. Thank you.
Put float switch in the secondary drain pan that turns the unit off if it senses water in the secondary pan. Then you don’t have to answer phone at night and there will be no ruined ceiling.
we are remodeling our guest bath and under the sink is the condensation line, could i just change the plumbing to have it go directly into the sink drain pipe in the wall? or does it have to go to a trap ?
I never expected to laugh at an HVAC tutorial. Thanks.
Is a P-trap and vent needed for an outdoor roof top unit. Location is in Southern California Desert.
should I have a vent on my p trap?
I have two units. The tray keeps filling and shutting off the downstairs a/c, there's never any water on the tray for the upstairs unit. I also noticed there's only a ptrap on the downstairs unit and neither of them have a vent for the drain line.
-Should there be a ptrap on the upstairs unit?
-should I install a vent on the drain line for either unit?
Maybe update this video on trapping up flow vs down flow systems.
So theres all alum coils now which means no antimicrobial properties. How do we negate this? Copper! I use copper chips in my EZ trap. Soon I'll be buying some copper sulfate. Im using the amazon knock off ez trap and it works great. Im about to put a second primary on.
Can you cover the diff types of coils and the drains they might need? Like for a bosch, it's a blow through. But a trane isnt. Thats important stuff. i dont know if you have covered it already but we are in cooling season and clogged drain line season lol.
Thanks for your video 👍
Can you attach a vent (extended PVC ) at the end of the clear P-trap ( where the red cap is on backend)?
I'd like to see a comparison of condensate drain installation for a blow-through system vs a draw-through system. I have a draw-through for one side of the house and a blow-through for the other side. It's a 2-story house and both systems are in the attic.
Our float switch has tripped twice in one month. It’s placed as a secondary line next to the primary line like the image you have at 2:26. I can see inside to where the ptrap is and inside the vent drain, neither are blocked/overflowing with water. Any thoughts on why the switch would still have condensation build up?
I have an upstairs a/c with no p-trap. That primary ties into the downstairs a/c then ties into the main grey water line with a p-trap. Do I need to add a p-trap upstairs as well? I do have a vent line coming off the primary upstairs a/c drain.
Where is the"cleanout", in your first example...?
I have a 4.5 ton variable BOSCH air handler with a running trap and no vent, no clean out TEE.
Looks like a no-brainer to install a clean out tee with unions either right before or right after the trap. I don’t understand if my running trap is acceptable or I need the deeper p shape. I’d like to have a little bit more knowledge before I proceed on my own or call the installer and question his technique.
Your comment made me realize it makes lots of sense to put unions in so it's easy to pull off and clean. Thank you!
Every time I see a float switch inline on a primary, I remove it and put it in the secondary coil outlet. Do not restrict that flow guys!
I learned that the hard way lol yes always move it to the secondary
Can I send you a pic of my drain pipe? And let me know if it’s done correctly?
Hey that contest ended June 23
So my AC drain pipe did not have a cap on it. I was told by the AC technician to put a cap on the drain pipe so I did but now the drain pipes are making noise every time the AC is on. Sounds like rain drops.. however, when I take the cap off, then there is no sound. Our blower motor have been replaced recently and we are having this issue after the new blower motor and once we cover the drain pipe with the cap please advise what can we do to fix this
Sounds like that there is excess water in the pan under the evap coil gurgling and not draining. It's probably all draining when the fan kicks off. Make sure the p trap is set right so that it holds water. Make sure the 2nd hole is sealed up too. There might be a partial obstruction in the pipe down the line and may need to be blown out. An hvac guy should be able to fix it in an hour tops. Gurgling isn't good.
My condensate drain has two vent stacks. One before and after the P-trap no drip pan as the air handler is outside. Air blows out the first vent before the P-trap when running. Is this normal? I'm in Arizona so the P-trap rarely fills up with water unless it's Monsoon season.
The vent before and after is a nice addition actually. In case the trap gets clogged, you can simply blow it clear. Though, keep the vent before the P-trap capped at all times unless clearing the drain.
GREAT video !! but... EZ traps are GAH.
Gah=?
To be clear, the name "vapor lock" might be the correct name used in the trade, but the phenomenon has nothing to do with vapor, and it doesn't really result in a lock.
The problem arises if there are two traps within the drain. One you intended on, and another due to pipe sag (I call a, sag-trap).
Let's say that each of the two traps in my example result in 3in of vertical water level per trap.
With a vent between the two traps, the water entering the vertical pipe before the real trap, only needs to fill to a level of 3.1" (above the trap water level) to move water through the first trap. That same 3.1" of water will be enough to push water through the second trap. The water in each trap is dealt with in order. One, then the other.
If there is no vent between the two traps, the two 3" vertical columns of water are connected by air that can not escape. This means there has to be 6.1" of water in the vertical pipe before the first trap in order to build up enough pressure to move the water in both traps simultaneously. No vent means the water in both traps have to move together. This requires higher head pressure to accomplish.
Certainly, make sure the vertical pipe leading to the first trap from the unit, can contain a height of water that is greater than the water level in the real trap.
2:30 EMERG PAN LEVEL W/ EMERG DRAIN LINE= NOT CODE . 1/4" PER LIN FT NEG DROP (GRAVITY FED)
IF HVAC IS INATTIC, CODE TO INSULATE (ARMORFLEX) PRI LINE 10'
my goodman rooftop ac unit just doesn't produce any condensation at all
So that means I can’t heat use my torch and burn a pvc pipe and turn it into a trap…….? But I love torching pvc!!!!!!
I swear to you when I say that I purchased 2 new sea doo jet skis 2 years ago Just on installing correct traps and that this year I bought a new Wildtrak Bronco for cash for replacing, correcting these traps here in GA in all the new builds these joke builders are installing wrong. Every single house I go into I have the potential to make $400 cash above and beyond anything Im there for originally. If you focus on the small things you can make a full time job out of it alone. Parts cost $40 everything else is profit. So keep up the great work big builders we all know.
When Is the new fake news coming out???
I actually have one I have not released…….