Man Bro Good Looking I Have a 2011 Chrysler 300 and I took it to shop cause it was overheating they say they done a diagnosis and I need radiator, water pump and thermostat. So I agreed to let them do the work it came out to like 1400 they did all of they in 2 days but car was still overheating they gave me all my money back and told me to take it to Chrysler. I let the car sit up 4 months and stumbled across your video. I think this was my problem the whole time Thanks 🤝 cars drives like nothing was ever wrong now
Did everything to my Durango except this even ordered a new thermostat metal housing didn’t think to bleed the system at that little screw thank you I’ll try this!!!
Just bought a thermostat and hose n a sensor for my 11 Dodge Durango 3.6L hasn’t been over heating stays at half but when I turn the ac on it moves past ? Is this why?
Wow, this is such a common problem. I don’t understand why there isn’t a definitive problem/solution. My v6 in my 2013 Durango started overheating. Replaced the thermostat and bled it and now it’s wants to run between 230* and 244* (half to 3/4 on the gauge) it used to run at the 3/8 mark (200* ???). Under normal driving it sits at the halfway mark but acceleration and freeway speeds push it to the 3/4 mark (244*) could it be the aftermarket thermostats have different specs? or in my case the mystery brand grocery store coolant I’m using?
Curious, did you replace the thermostat because that was the reason why it was over heating? Or did you replace it because it can cause overheating? Sounds like the car needs to be diagnosed first and find out why exactly is it overheating. Was there any codes? Also are you subscribed to the channel?
My 2011 avenger was bubbling in the bottle after the shop flushed it and I also noticed I have bubbles coming out of the middle of the bleeder screw .. think I should change the screw ?
Ha I have a 3.6 dodge challenger that is still overheating I have change my thermostat to a 180 instead of a 208 an spark plugs, call packs I also have done a pressure test on my coolant at 15 PSI. It did not go higher and it did not drop pressure. I also did it at 20 psi. It did not drop pressure and it did not go higher. I have blurred the system and my reservoir coolant keeps dropping. I have no leaks. Water pump works. Every mechanic I have talked to they are Please let me know any suggestions
Question I have the same penstar v6 on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler and it was overheating a bit when I got home refilled it and kept doing the same thing. I changed water pump, radiator, hoses, over flow even burped it and it still goes to the 3/4 mark after driving for 30 minutes then back down to the center heating mark. No coolant smell in oil and no wet plugs ?? I am baffled?? Any suggestions?? Thanks
The funny thing is I have it topped off and burped but it fills my over flow and doesn’t circulate it back to radiator but all those parts are new over flow etc ?
@@alexsantana5377 OK, proper circulation require a real good working thermostat, im hope you have checked that, if fack, because its inexpensive, you should have just replaced it. Also keep in mind, the Jeeps have an electric fan that has to come on at a certain temp for the cooling sys to work properly. Make sure the fan coming on when it should
Okay did all that and burp it as well. I change the thermostat. Still runs hot. Coolant runs at 228-235F. Engine oil runs the same with the coolant. Transmission 195-203F. The more I keep hauling is getting near to 230. What can it be I mean is a 2018 it can't be the water pump?
I ended up turning on the engine and opening the bleeder screw till the air was done coming out. Alternatively there’s another bleeder valve near the thermostat
These pentastar engines scare me. I have a 2016 Grand Caravan with one and here it is april and it is running right at the halfway temp gauge. Is that a common thing with these engines?
I have a 2016 jeep grand cherokee laredo with a v6 this is overheating. I change the thermostat and still overheating at high speed. I can let it sit and idle for an hour no overheating. No leaks. What could this be?
That's exactly what I did on my 2014 300 3.6L and it was fine.. The only thing is it runs a little bit hotter than it used to it used to run just under 200° like 198/199 and now it will go up to 220 The fan will kick on and it will drop to 208 and stay there, but I think it used to run cooler because the thermostat was stuck open a little bit and when it finally threw off a code check engine I replaced it.. but I'm not sure if 208ish is normal.. now my 2019 300 3.6 AWD runs at 220 always.. and I haven't done anything to it..
@@honkhonk9222 It is literally on the thermostat housing.. It's a little round plastic screw on top of the thermostat housing in the front of the engine right under the air box pipe.. If you look up a picture of a thermostat housing for this car you can see it and then go look under the hood.
Ok i have a 2013 Dodge Avenger SE 3.6 I'm going to check for the bleeder screw and bleed the cooling sys hopefully this help it stop running hot on me i change the radiator, the fans, the thermostat x2 and the engine oil cooler oil filter housing adapter assembly and still running hot how do you know if your water pump bad? Help me please im not a smart person like that
Hey bud, sorry you having these problems. Listen, after you verify 100% that the cooling sys has no air pockets, theres a test i tend to do to verify water pump output. Simply turn the heater on. If your heater working and its blowing hot, your water pump doing its job.
@@OnlineMechanicTips hey boss I’ve bled the air completely out changed thermostat and water pump but still no luck it still over heats after a drive. Heater stops working when temp goes up also. Any idea what the problem could be? Fans work and everything.
So I have a 2012 dodge Journey with the 3.6 V6. She gets hot when going uphill or pulling a small trailer. I've top of the coolant and bleed it, replaced the thermostat and blow off the radiator with air. She gets up over 230f. In normal driving conditions she stays around 204f. Any suggestions ?? Thank you!!
@@OnlineMechanicTips I blew the radiator fins just to get dust and any debris off. Yes I subscribe and im telling people about your channel. Again thank man much appreciated..
@@johng8967 Ok, when you dealing with overheating thats triggered by load you may have a restriction in the cooling sys. Im sure youve verified that the cooling fan operating. Typically comes on at about 230. Also ive had luck with simply grabbing the upper radiator hose and the lower hose to compare temparture readings, should be fairly close, if not, that could be your restriction. Also see if your heater working blowing hot.
Ok so when you’re bleeding the air out of the cooling system I got 2 questions: 1. While bleeding the cooling system do you leave the car running with the pressure cap on the radiator on or off? 2. Do you turn the heater on while your bleeding the air out of the system?
Only loosen the screw. Once fluid start to spew out tighten the bleeder and then remove ur cap and refill radiator. Then proceed to run the engine w the heather on so the coolant can circulate, then turn engine off and repeat the process till no coolant spews out.
If this a Pentastar this vehicle very hard to bleed the normal way. The bleeder screw on top of the thermostat. I use my bleeder funnel valve. But leave the heater on while bleeding.
My v6 charger randomly overheat slightly. I changed my Waterpump and my thermostat about a year ago. Not sure if the mechanic bled out the air remaining. Could this be why my car randomly overheat?
Love all of your videos! I am about to attempt a coolant change on my 2013 Chrysler T&C (Pentastar 3.6). My plan is to drain, fill with distilled water, run up to temp + a few minutes. Repeat this process twice, drain, then dump in 7.7L of OAT concentrate + top up distilled water. My question is about the bleeder screw. Does the van need to be up to operating temp with the thermostat open to open the bleeder screw to purge the air, or can it be opened immediately after new water or coolant mix is added? I'll have the 3-zone HVAC all tuned on hot with fan on. Thanks!
Hello my friend, there are different ways to bleed a cooling sys. If you do it at operating temp you would likely be under pressure, so as soon as you open it, coolant/air would be forced out which not a bad idea.. Which ever way you choose, you would likely need to do it twice. I tend to use my bleeder funnel along with the bleeder screw for added double assurance.
@@OnlineMechanicTips Thanks! Appreciate the response. I did two flushes with demineralized water, then dumped in 8L of OAT and topped up with demineralized water. Worked great. But, I'm going to do it again, just in case I had the HOAT in there. When I drained the initial fill, it was pinkish-red even though my van is supposed to have the OAT, since it's a 2013. Dealer confirmed OAT by VIN, but it might have been in the changeover, so I wasn't sure. Heard that the early 13s might have had FIAT red OAT before they dyed it purple. Don't want to take any chances. The bleeder screw works the very best. No airlock issues at all. Also picked up a Lisle spill proof funnel. Awesome product - clamped right on to the rad filler port perfectly, no leaks and get the fluid high up for good gravity feed and air purging. Thanks again! Checking out your TIPM video now. Don't have a problem currently, but nice to have these bookmarked in case I do. Your videos are great stuff. Definitely subscribed! My van: www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/hoping-to-rejoin-the-fold-with-a-2013-t-c-limited.173968/page-5#post-1742423
Thanks a lot bro I’ve been have issues since a accident I had in January an I also took to a shop an it’s still overheating I thought I fixed the problem but I ran hot again after two days from getting it back from the shop again
These Pentastar 3.6l are disasters. I’ve been chasing leaks and over heating since I got it. Starting leaking at 90K miles and haven’t been able to get it to stop.
I have a 2017 wrangler it started to go above the half way mark on the temp gauge changed my water pump thermostat and hoses and I bled it too. Drove it around and it starts to do the same thing go above the half way mark but the thing is when I checked the over flow it’s full?? So now I’m changing radiator too and will bleed hopefully that will work it’s too new with 90k also
Hey! I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler. It’s overheating so I took it in and the scan said it was the thermostat. So I changed it and now i have zero warm air coming out the vents. What could it need now??
Good video. My 2011 Chrysler 200 3.6 is always above the half way point. Unfortunately, my bleeder screw like the top of it just broke off, so I’m not messing with it. But it’s like no matter what I do the needle goes up and down.
When u replace the fan was the fan working my 2012 Chrysler 300 is over heating I replaced the thermostat houseing water pump n added new coolant n bleeder the system it is still overheating but my fan dose turn on do u think I need to replace the fan my fan funs on when I out the heater on high..
Hey bud, you seem like a great guy and you seem very knowledgeable. Very good and informative video. I just want to give one piece of advice. As I was reading through the comments. I noticed you kind of hound everyone directly about subscribing. I completely understand you're just trying to grow etc etc. But it kind of comes off a little rude imo. Your content and the quality of your videos will bring in the subscribers. Not to mention, you can always do what most UA-camrs do. At the end of every video, you can always tell folks to like, comment and subscribe. That's totally fine, because you aren't directly talking to anyone specific. Ijs when you say it to everyone you talk to. You almost make it seem as if they have to. Or that you are pressuring them to do so. Idk if you have a way to tell. If you do, then number one, it definitely comes across as if you are hounding them and or if you do know, why ask. I know it's hard to take constructive criticism these days. But ijs, I noticed that you were saying it to everyone you replied to. Replying is definitely a good thing, which in of itself will gain you views and Subs. It will come naturally. Just be patient bud! I know you are just eager to grow and to get more viewers. But I just wanted to let you know, how I and some others might take it. Otherwise you are doing great bro!
This was a good interesting read however, merely asking somebody are they subscribed to the channel is not hounding them. What ive learned over the years doing auto repair vids is people will hound you with question after question when they in panic mode trying to fix they car, Because this is now considered a business to me, I cannot and will not waste time going back and fourth with non subscribers. Due to the recent growth of the channel, I spend the buck of my time helping subscribers and regulars. If you cant take 2 seconds out of your life to click the subscribe button in support of the channel you seeking help from, that do not make sense. I will use you as an example, I can see that you not subscribe to the channel, had you asked a mechanical question, I would have proceeded with trying to answer it but in that ans, I may ask you are you subscribed. If the answer is no or you do not answer the question, thats wasting my time, and at that time, the conversation stops, that time could be spent on the many subbers out there in my DM and email and on youtube. And it gets very offensive when I can see that you are subscribed to other youtube mechanics such as Scotty K or South Main Auto. (nothing against these guys, but will they even entertain your question?) So my point is, I will continue to simply ask commenters are they subscribed, if they not I cant waste time. This was a good read like I said earlier and thanks for watching the video my friend.
Total BS . All cooling systems are self bleeding air. The radiator cap is the highest point of the system -- when COLD all the air will be under the cap . No need to open when hot or running . Plus The water pump pushes the coolant around any air goes to the top of the radiator . if you are low on coolant in the system hot air or coolant pushes the spring in the radiator cap and goes into the overfill tank. when it cools it sucks back liquid from the tank into the radiator.
My guy, if you dont bleed this sys properly after making a cooling system repair in this manner laid out in this video, your engine will over heat. Its not BS just because you dont understand somethibg as simple as this..smdh
I'm a mechanic . 20 years. Filled hundreds of cooling systems. No " bleeding" air. No problems. ...Fill...warm up....turn off...cool down....top off. Thats it.
@@damian4608 Here's a thought. You have a youtube channel, make a video and try explaining this rediculus comment to the masses the way you want to. Im sure everybody wants to know this genius secret of yours and it should get a lot of views. No sense trying to convince me, im set in my ways already. Go for it brosci
You 100% need to bleed the system. If you get an air pocket your car is going to overheat and you’re going to hear sloshing around in your heater core. If you weren’t meant to bleed it there wouldn’t be a bleeder screw and it wouldn’t be in the haynes chilton AND Dodge service manual. You may have been doing it for 20 years doesn’t mean you’ve been doing it right bud.
You have to humble yourself man no disrespect but these systems are more complex then before. Newer tech will have different tricks. You should know in this industry as mechanics we are never done learning.
This will DESTROY your RADIATOR: ua-cam.com/video/J_FD05_C4f8/v-deo.html
Man Bro Good Looking I Have a 2011 Chrysler 300 and I took it to shop cause it was overheating they say they done a diagnosis and I need radiator, water pump and thermostat. So I agreed to let them do the work it came out to like 1400 they did all of they in 2 days but car was still overheating they gave me all my money back and told me to take it to Chrysler. I let the car sit up 4 months and stumbled across your video. I think this was my problem the whole time Thanks 🤝 cars drives like nothing was ever wrong now
Your channel has the best Intro period 👍
Great video! Helped with my 3.6 last night. Thank you for a clear and informative video that gets straight to the point.
Did everything to my Durango except this even ordered a new thermostat metal housing didn’t think to bleed the system at that little screw thank you I’ll try this!!!
Did it work?
@@stormromero7858 no it’s a blow head gasket. Used the vacuum fill method and got no pressure and realized there’s a leak somewhere
Just bought a thermostat and hose n a sensor for my 11 Dodge Durango 3.6L hasn’t been over heating stays at half but when I turn the ac on it moves past ? Is this why?
Hey bud, did you have a code P0128?
@@OnlineMechanicTips before I bought all that it gave me this code P0730
Then right before they put it on it gave the Mecanic the code P0117
@@OnlineMechanicTips && yes I am subbed
Did you ever figure out what was the issue ? Michael Gonzalez
Straight, simple, and to the point. This is great youtube.
When you loosened the bleeder screw and let the air/coolant out; you do this with the engine running or off, please? Thank you!
I Have it off but its resistant I would start it so the engine would help with circulation. Thanks for watching..please subscribe
I see thank you! I was asking for a 2011 Town and country with pentastar engine.
Hhhhh
Wow, this is such a common problem. I don’t understand why there isn’t a definitive problem/solution. My v6 in my 2013 Durango started overheating. Replaced the thermostat and bled it and now it’s wants to run between 230* and 244* (half to 3/4 on the gauge) it used to run at the 3/8 mark (200* ???). Under normal driving it sits at the halfway mark but acceleration and freeway speeds push it to the 3/4 mark (244*) could it be the aftermarket thermostats have different specs? or in my case the mystery brand grocery store coolant I’m using?
Curious, did you replace the thermostat because that was the reason why it was over heating? Or did you replace it because it can cause overheating? Sounds like the car needs to be diagnosed first and find out why exactly is it overheating. Was there any codes? Also are you subscribed to the channel?
Use only mopar thermostat!! Only!
My 2011 avenger was bubbling in the bottle after the shop flushed it and I also noticed I have bubbles coming out of the middle of the bleeder screw .. think I should change the screw ?
Best and easiest video on bleeding a 3.6 penstar
Ha I have a 3.6 dodge challenger that is still overheating I have change my thermostat to a 180 instead of a 208 an spark plugs, call packs I also have done a pressure test on my coolant at 15 PSI. It did not go higher and it did not drop pressure. I also did it at 20 psi. It did not drop pressure and it did not go higher. I have blurred the system and my reservoir coolant keeps dropping. I have no leaks. Water pump works. Every mechanic I have talked to they are Please let me know any suggestions
Lol liquid glass for that head gasket
Good video, how would I bleed the 2016 Ram 1500 3.6L coolant system?
Hey bud, the bleeder screw on all 3.6 engines located on the thermostat
Question I have the same penstar v6 on a 2017 Jeep Wrangler and it was overheating a bit when I got home refilled it and kept doing the same thing. I changed water pump, radiator, hoses, over flow even burped it and it still goes to the 3/4 mark after driving for 30 minutes then back down to the center heating mark. No coolant smell in oil and no wet plugs ?? I am baffled?? Any suggestions?? Thanks
Ok, this has to be known first. Are there any codes in the computer?
Yes I am subscribed and it has no codes jeep didn’t have an explanation today 🤦♂️.
The funny thing is I have it topped off and burped but it fills my over flow and doesn’t circulate it back to radiator but all those parts are new over flow etc ?
@@alexsantana5377 OK, proper circulation require a real good working thermostat, im hope you have checked that, if fack, because its inexpensive, you should have just replaced it. Also keep in mind, the Jeeps have an electric fan that has to come on at a certain temp for the cooling sys to work properly. Make sure the fan coming on when it should
Yes I have replaced thermostat and checked also that the fan is on and watched it too
What is normal or avarage cooling temperature for the engine?
No more than 230f
Okay did all that and burp it as well. I change the thermostat. Still runs hot. Coolant runs at 228-235F. Engine oil runs the same with the coolant. Transmission 195-203F.
The more I keep hauling is getting near to 230. What can it be I mean is a 2018 it can't be the water pump?
Mine gets up to *240F* and I just changed out the water pump, thermostat AND bled the coolant system of air.
You put coolant in the water tank, any type right.
Does the ar need to be on or off when opening the screw?
Would any kind of coolant system repairs include swapping oil cooler?
I'm fighting this right now
I ended up turning on the engine and opening the bleeder screw till the air was done coming out. Alternatively there’s another bleeder valve near the thermostat
the head of my bleed screw just snapped off, any idea what to do next??
Replace the thermostat. It comes complete.
@@OnlineMechanicTips going to buy one now
@@OnlineMechanicTips I replaced it, so far so good no more over heating. I got all of the air out thanks a lot!
Hey, how many gallons of coolant did it take?
Do you know if this is the exact same setup as the Ram 1500 Pentastar V6?
Yes, same. The 3.6 Pentastar the same
Great content what is normal operating temp for this vehicle ? thanks in advance
95C or 203F degrees.
These pentastar engines scare me. I have a 2016 Grand Caravan with one and here it is april and it is running right at the halfway temp gauge. Is that a common thing with these engines?
I have a 2016 jeep grand cherokee laredo with a v6 this is overheating. I change the thermostat and still overheating at high speed. I can let it sit and idle for an hour no overheating. No leaks. What could this be?
That's exactly what I did on my 2014 300 3.6L and it was fine.. The only thing is it runs a little bit hotter than it used to it used to run just under 200° like 198/199 and now it will go up to 220 The fan will kick on and it will drop to 208 and stay there, but I think it used to run cooler because the thermostat was stuck open a little bit and when it finally threw off a code check engine I replaced it.. but I'm not sure if 208ish is normal.. now my 2019 300 3.6 AWD runs at 220 always.. and I haven't done anything to it..
Michael Wise hey man where is the bleeder screw located cause I have the same car and for the life of me I can’t find it
@@honkhonk9222 It is literally on the thermostat housing.. It's a little round plastic screw on top of the thermostat housing in the front of the engine right under the air box pipe.. If you look up a picture of a thermostat housing for this car you can see it and then go look under the hood.
Michael Wise thank you man really appreciate it
Mine did the same I chande my t stat and now runs 212 -220
@@joshkisner5 which shortly after I found out that's normal 210-220 your good.
Ok i have a 2013 Dodge Avenger SE 3.6 I'm going to check for the bleeder screw and bleed the cooling sys hopefully this help it stop running hot on me i change the radiator, the fans, the thermostat x2 and the engine oil cooler oil filter housing adapter assembly and still running hot how do you know if your water pump bad? Help me please im not a smart person like that
Hey bud, sorry you having these problems. Listen, after you verify 100% that the cooling sys has no air pockets, theres a test i tend to do to verify water pump output. Simply turn the heater on. If your heater working and its blowing hot, your water pump doing its job.
Thx u so if its not blowing hot change the water pump
@@OnlineMechanicTips hey boss I’ve bled the air completely out changed thermostat and water pump but still no luck it still over heats after a drive. Heater stops working when temp goes up also. Any idea what the problem could be? Fans work and everything.
Does the vehicle has to be on when u bleed
So I have a 2012 dodge Journey with the 3.6 V6. She gets hot when going uphill or pulling a small trailer. I've top of the coolant and bleed it, replaced the thermostat and blow off the radiator with air. She gets up over 230f. In normal driving conditions she stays around 204f. Any suggestions ?? Thank you!!
2 things, what do you mean by you blew off the radiator with air.
@@OnlineMechanicTips I blew the radiator fins just to get dust and any debris off. Yes I subscribe and im telling people about your channel. Again thank man much appreciated..
@@johng8967 Ok, when you dealing with overheating thats triggered by load you may have a restriction in the cooling sys. Im sure youve verified that the cooling fan operating. Typically comes on at about 230. Also ive had luck with simply grabbing the upper radiator hose and the lower hose to compare temparture readings, should be fairly close, if not, that could be your restriction. Also see if your heater working blowing hot.
Nice!
Yo what's the approx torque for the 21mm bracket bolts that hold the front calipers???
What kind of car is it bud?
@@OnlineMechanicTips
My bad! The minivan from the video 😂
But mine is a 2012 w single piston calipers
Ok so when you’re bleeding the air out of the cooling system I got 2 questions: 1. While bleeding the cooling system do you leave the car running with the pressure cap on the radiator on or off? 2. Do you turn the heater on while your bleeding the air out of the system?
HOLY COW A YEAR AGO AND YOUR WUESTION STILL WASN’T ANSWERED??
Only loosen the screw. Once fluid start to spew out tighten the bleeder and then remove ur cap and refill radiator. Then proceed to run the engine w the heather on so the coolant can circulate, then turn engine off and repeat the process till no coolant spews out.
Till No coolant spews out of the bleeder scew when loosen? @@gabeo5559
Can you use all vehicle antifreeze on the Journey 3.6? Like the Prestone 300k mile stuff?
What’s up brother I replaced my radiator but it won’t bleed at all do you know why ?
If this a Pentastar this vehicle very hard to bleed the normal way. The bleeder screw on top of the thermostat. I use my bleeder funnel valve. But leave the heater on while bleeding.
@@OnlineMechanicTips it’s a 5.7 hemi I unscrewed the bleeder valve but no coolant coming out at all nothing but steam
And the coolant stays in the reservoir
@@taemccoy1108 You have a restriction my friend. You need to find a bigger bleeder opening like a heater hose or something
@@OnlineMechanicTips so I have to take one of the heater hose off and pour coolant in
My v6 charger randomly overheat slightly. I changed my Waterpump and my thermostat about a year ago. Not sure if the mechanic bled out the air remaining. Could this be why my car randomly overheat?
Hey bud, if this was done over a year ago, its unlikely its from an air pocket. What year is the car and what engine?
@@OnlineMechanicTips I am not subscribed but I will. And it’s a 2013 sxt
So for a 2013 dodge charger the bleeder is on the thermostat housing?
Yes, if its a 3.6 Pentastar engine. Thanks for watching, please thumbs up the video and subscribe to the channel, thanks
is that the same engine as the 2014 chrysler 300 and is everything in the same place?
Thank you sir, your video definitely helped our overheat problem which stemmed from an oil cooler replacement.
Love all of your videos! I am about to attempt a coolant change on my 2013 Chrysler T&C (Pentastar 3.6). My plan is to drain, fill with distilled water, run up to temp + a few minutes. Repeat this process twice, drain, then dump in 7.7L of OAT concentrate + top up distilled water. My question is about the bleeder screw. Does the van need to be up to operating temp with the thermostat open to open the bleeder screw to purge the air, or can it be opened immediately after new water or coolant mix is added? I'll have the 3-zone HVAC all tuned on hot with fan on. Thanks!
Hello my friend, there are different ways to bleed a cooling sys. If you do it at operating temp you would likely be under pressure, so as soon as you open it, coolant/air would be forced out which not a bad idea.. Which ever way you choose, you would likely need to do it twice. I tend to use my bleeder funnel along with the bleeder screw for added double assurance.
@@OnlineMechanicTips Thanks! Appreciate the response. I did two flushes with demineralized water, then dumped in 8L of OAT and topped up with demineralized water. Worked great. But, I'm going to do it again, just in case I had the HOAT in there. When I drained the initial fill, it was pinkish-red even though my van is supposed to have the OAT, since it's a 2013. Dealer confirmed OAT by VIN, but it might have been in the changeover, so I wasn't sure. Heard that the early 13s might have had FIAT red OAT before they dyed it purple. Don't want to take any chances.
The bleeder screw works the very best. No airlock issues at all. Also picked up a Lisle spill proof funnel. Awesome product - clamped right on to the rad filler port perfectly, no leaks and get the fluid high up for good gravity feed and air purging. Thanks again!
Checking out your TIPM video now. Don't have a problem currently, but nice to have these bookmarked in case I do. Your videos are great stuff. Definitely subscribed!
My van: www.chryslerminivan.net/threads/hoping-to-rejoin-the-fold-with-a-2013-t-c-limited.173968/page-5#post-1742423
Is the car running or off ?
Thanks a lot bro I’ve been have issues since a accident I had in January an I also took to a shop an it’s still overheating I thought I fixed the problem but I ran hot again after two days from getting it back from the shop again
what if my 3.6 Pentastar is running cold, no heat?
What about a 5.7 rt charger pursuit bro ?
Finally working on a Chrysler.
Eazy pz my guy
Could this be why my 3.6 pentastar gets hot on the interstate but is fine in town after I replaced the radiator?
Did you figure out your problem
I wish u would teach more . Tell us the year and why 5 yr coolant? Just saying. Do u want to be the best?
Yes I do, Im on it..Getting better over time, thanks for the tips.
Dude don’t even need a funnel. Great aim! Wife probably loves him cause he don’t even pee on the toilet seat, lmao. Great video, thanks!!
lmao
Boom, done... another great one!
Thats whats up. Thanks bud. Please thumbs up the vids for me, thanks
Extremely helpful! This saved me some $$ Thanks
Ohh man you really saved my life! Thank you so much 🙏
These Pentastar 3.6l are disasters. I’ve been chasing leaks and over heating since I got it. Starting leaking at 90K miles and haven’t been able to get it to stop.
I have a 2017 wrangler it started to go above the half way mark on the temp gauge changed my water pump thermostat and hoses and I bled it too. Drove it around and it starts to do the same thing go above the half way mark but the thing is when I checked the over flow it’s full?? So now I’m changing radiator too and will bleed hopefully that will work it’s too new with 90k also
@@alexsantana5377 did you ever get that fixed
Great video man thanks for that tip! 👍🏽
Another awesome video !
Hey! I have a 2013 Jeep Wrangler. It’s overheating so I took it in and the scan said it was the thermostat. So I changed it and now i have zero warm air coming out the vents. What could it need now??
Thank you great broadcast!
Thanks Kathy for watching, please consider subscribing to the channel, thanks.
Good video. My 2011 Chrysler 200 3.6 is always above the half way point. Unfortunately, my bleeder screw like the top of it just broke off, so I’m not messing with it. But it’s like no matter what I do the needle goes up and down.
You rock bro
Hot Engine, Must to spill water to the cooler.
My car was overheating I had to place. The thermostat and the Fan
was it fairly easy, what kind of car was it on?
@@OnlineMechanicTips I had a professional mechanic do the job, 2006 Infiniti G35
When u replace the fan was the fan working my 2012 Chrysler 300 is over heating I replaced the thermostat houseing water pump n added new coolant n bleeder the system it is still overheating but my fan dose turn on do u think I need to replace the fan my fan funs on when I out the heater on high..
Thank you!!!!
Hey bud, you seem like a great guy and you seem very knowledgeable. Very good and informative video. I just want to give one piece of advice. As I was reading through the comments. I noticed you kind of hound everyone directly about subscribing. I completely understand you're just trying to grow etc etc. But it kind of comes off a little rude imo. Your content and the quality of your videos will bring in the subscribers. Not to mention, you can always do what most UA-camrs do. At the end of every video, you can always tell folks to like, comment and subscribe. That's totally fine, because you aren't directly talking to anyone specific. Ijs when you say it to everyone you talk to. You almost make it seem as if they have to. Or that you are pressuring them to do so. Idk if you have a way to tell. If you do, then number one, it definitely comes across as if you are hounding them and or if you do know, why ask. I know it's hard to take constructive criticism these days. But ijs, I noticed that you were saying it to everyone you replied to. Replying is definitely a good thing, which in of itself will gain you views and Subs. It will come naturally. Just be patient bud! I know you are just eager to grow and to get more viewers. But I just wanted to let you know, how I and some others might take it. Otherwise you are doing great bro!
This was a good interesting read however, merely asking somebody are they subscribed to the channel is not hounding them. What ive learned over the years doing auto repair vids is people will hound you with question after question when they in panic mode trying to fix they car, Because this is now considered a business to me, I cannot and will not waste time going back and fourth with non subscribers. Due to the recent growth of the channel, I spend the buck of my time helping subscribers and regulars. If you cant take 2 seconds out of your life to click the subscribe button in support of the channel you seeking help from, that do not make sense. I will use you as an example, I can see that you not subscribe to the channel, had you asked a mechanical question, I would have proceeded with trying to answer it but in that ans, I may ask you are you subscribed. If the answer is no or you do not answer the question, thats wasting my time, and at that time, the conversation stops, that time could be spent on the many subbers out there in my DM and email and on youtube. And it gets very offensive when I can see that you are subscribed to other youtube mechanics such as Scotty K or South Main Auto. (nothing against these guys, but will they even entertain your question?) So my point is, I will continue to simply ask commenters are they subscribed, if they not I cant waste time. This was a good read like I said earlier and thanks for watching the video my friend.
Yeah! You scratch my back, I scratch yours. Ain't nuttin wrong with dat
Total BS . All cooling systems are self bleeding air. The radiator cap is the highest point of the system -- when COLD all the air will be under the cap . No need to open when hot or running . Plus The water pump pushes the coolant around any air goes to the top of the radiator . if you are low on coolant in the system hot air or coolant pushes the spring in the radiator cap and goes into the overfill tank. when it cools it sucks back liquid from the tank into the radiator.
My guy, if you dont bleed this sys properly after making a cooling system repair in this manner laid out in this video, your engine will over heat. Its not BS just because you dont understand somethibg as simple as this..smdh
I'm a mechanic . 20 years. Filled hundreds of cooling systems. No " bleeding" air. No problems. ...Fill...warm up....turn off...cool down....top off. Thats it.
@@damian4608 Here's a thought. You have a youtube channel, make a video and try explaining this rediculus comment to the masses the way you want to. Im sure everybody wants to know this genius secret of yours and it should get a lot of views. No sense trying to convince me, im set in my ways already. Go for it brosci
You 100% need to bleed the system. If you get an air pocket your car is going to overheat and you’re going to hear sloshing around in your heater core. If you weren’t meant to bleed it there wouldn’t be a bleeder screw and it wouldn’t be in the haynes chilton AND Dodge service manual.
You may have been doing it for 20 years doesn’t mean you’ve been doing it right bud.
You have to humble yourself man no disrespect but these systems are more complex then before. Newer tech will have different tricks. You should know in this industry as mechanics we are never done learning.
One two, one two!
I see lots of air 🤣 in my brain 🧠💪