02:35 consignment. Also for the fire wall, just cut metal and patch it to make it smooth, don't use fiberglass, it'll look like shit and will NOT hold up. Trust me old cars flex a lot and the fiberglass will pop. Fiberglass and bondo are the bane of my existence, having worked on old cars over the years.
Hooker’s T-56 Shift Hump Panel (PN 71223008HKR). It’s a timesaver that, when combined with Hooker’s engine mount brackets and transmission crossmember, makes swapping a TREMEC-backed LS engine into a second-gen F-body easy. One piece of advise....don't let the big picture scare you, take it 1 piece at a time and it'll get done. Bust out that dry erase board and list all the things and start marking them off, you got this.
Priority - rust repair, fill extra holes, mini tub, roll bar. On the trans tunnel you really need to put in the front sub frame, engine and trans so you can confirm sizing. Be aware it will effect your center console fitment. It’s over whelming if you look at everything that needs to be done, so just focus on ONE thing….complete it and move to the next. You got this🍻💪
I would definitely say start with what youre most comfortable with. So that would probably be the fab work. After getting it stripped and everything, make sure the t56 fits and cut the necessary hole for the shifter, clutch, etc. Get it to the body shop. Once paint is done, work on getting the driveline completed. Since one of the last steps is engine wiring (usually) then go for the chassis wiring. Super excited to see you work on this thing man. Cant wait for the coming videos.
The main body harness can stay. Just remove the engine harness portion. You have a “stand alone” engine management system with that Holley system. Just adapt the key on and start circuit from the original harness and that’s about it. It really is pretty simple on the wiring side. It just looks like a pain. If you want to update that old wiring, check out painless wiring or American auto wire for a complete swap in replacement harness. This would be the simplest.
You don't have to rewire everything. You skim the oem harness down to a key on wire/ the starter wire and then all your body wires, lights heater, dash lights and then run the ls stand-alone.. so I wouldn't just get rid of that oem firewall plug unless you want to complete redo it.
Dan, you should look into getting a helper like Chase did for his motorcycle rebuilds. Brian was a massive!!!! help to Chase. I feel like you could use a buddy to keep you going on these projects and bring some more experience to your builds. Love the vids, it’s only work!
Your plan for the car sounds fine to me? Strip it, modify, paint prep, paint, reassemble... but before you do anything to the car, I'd get a storage rack or two and some plastic bins to store the parts you're keeping. I know you have some sort of storage system (leaning shit on the wall) but have a dedicated storage spot that's neatly organized can help down the road. Much love
It’s been a HOT HUMID STEAMY Minute since I’ve watched Dan. I used to ignore his car content and only watch the motovlogs but now I like car stuff and this is the perfect Chanel
I’m so excited to see the Camaro back! You got this Dan ma dude. It’s just work as you always say. Considering how Odin turned out can’t wait to see what you end up doing with this thing. And hopefully it won’t take 735 years again. Love ya dude!
Dan, absolutely love that you’re back working on the Camaro. However, can we get one good cinematic reveal of Odin similar to what you did with the Magna and Warhorse.
I put a cold air intake on my shitbox civic so I am obviously a real mechanic. And I recommend using cardboard to roughly build your parts then cut what you need in metal using the cardboard as a guide.
Glad to see ya working on it again! I’m in a similar boat with my s10 blazer project, bad timing and poor decision making and next thing ya know it’s been years and nothings done. My .02 would be to strip the interior, fix all the rust, do the mini tub, and then do a “test assembly” put the whole drivetrain in, do the roll cage, do ALL the fabrication/customization you want to do, especially if you’re going to have someone else do the body work and paint it, the last thing you wanna do is have to get a portion repainted because you changed your mind. And if this is truly a life long car, i think it would be worth having the whole car stripped/sand blasted inside and out and get the under side properly re seam sealed and painted/coated along with the interior. Can’t wait to see where ya take this build Dan!
100% got the right idea with getting it mechanically solid and sending it to someone to get body work and paint done. it would be awesome if you could find a shop that wanted to let you kinda watch and learn from them the way dan does with everything. that last sentence may not make sense but hopefully it comes across right, cause some of my favorite videos are of you being the jack of all trades learning from a master of the craft!
so... for those who dont know. spot welds and seams serve a purpose, the car will naturally twist and flex from usage as well as expand and contract on hot and cold days. when building race cars fully welding every seam will result in the body developing serious cracks that are hard to repair without replacing the metal. Usually the seams are stich welded and seam sealed to increase rigidity without this cracking issue. also, don't forget to reinstall drain holes in areas you replace, then cavity wax them before humidity or water gets in, you can spray the backside with weld through primer before install to help this.
I would highly recommend a product called POR, (Paint Over Rust). It actually penetrates the pores of the metal itself and stops rust from spreading. Clean up the surface, get rid of any current rust or any damage that has been done and then spray the POR over the entire area. I think this would be a really good option for your firewall, frame, and any other body panels.
FINALLY! I've been so fuckin hyped to see the Camaro get the love it deserves! Painless Wiring would be your best bet to get it rewired or even Holly. I'd bet you could take care of 90% of the body work and a tube just behind the seats with a bar for a 4 or 5 point harness. You got this Dan, just do one section at a time.
I’m so excited for this project. Been waiting to see it get done for years. Don’t worry so much about it Dan, you may be figuring shit out on the fly but it’s fine. You did the same shit with the dually and taught yourself how to do a bunch of the work and it turned out dope. Just take it a piece at a time and you’ll get there eventually.
Also companies who do stand alone harness's can make whips for a body harness as well. Rywire and a few companies offer a generic kit you can use to map out what you need for engine and what you want for the body.
Dan's been working hard man. Smashing out the content 💪🏾. Absolutely love to see it dude. Just take your time with this man. Get it stripped, get it rolling, get it cleaned. Go from there. Its just work 👌
Look into a tiger roll cage seems to be what you are looking for. Don't trash the factory bulkhead as you will still use that for stock lights. Now you could always do your own and change bulkheads but the. Your going into a whole extra project. Is your concern on firewall more clearance or appearance? I would probably say clearance it, clean it up seal it then use the plasma to cut a firewall plate and rivnut that to the existing firewall. Gives you a nice smooth wall with just the holes you need. Also interested in them seats for my 75 if you decide to part with them
You could maybe do floor pan replacement panels and weld those in while you're doing the tubs. Then you could bulkhead the backseat area so you have a clean slate for any shenanigans you want to do for the backseat area and map out your half cage and have a solid foundation?🤷 For the firewall, I wouldn't fiberglass it. Heat can make it separate and crack and look like shit after a while. Just patch the holes and grind the welds flat so that it can be painted and be nice and clean. There are also HVAC systems that you can get that will be modern and cleaner that you can pop in. I don't remember if you did it but there are also modernized vintage replacement dash kits you can get with gauges and all that. Just a thought! I'm so fucking stoked for this, dude!
Dan, just a heads up, if ur removing the entire floor pans or a large part of them , Dont cut the floor pans outta ur car without putting some type of support bars inside, from side to side or corner to corner bc once u cut the metal from the floors the body will twist or become outta square then u will have a nightmare to deal with. also using the proper bracing u can also remove the entire firewall if u wanted and replace it with a more flat style firewall, actually i think u can buy those, or you could cut it on your plasma table. hope this helps, i cant wait to see it when ur finished with it.
It's just work... but you have to remember when building a project car of this scale is... it's a LOT of work. Be focused, Have a plan! And mock up everything! Everything going in needs to be mocked up an fitted before taking it apart again for paint etc.
Woofers and gun storage, I dig it. As for my like button press it was the slowly dropping lift for me. Tho, I'd hit it a second time for that carry belt and reaction.
Will you need to somehow fit the engine and transmission to build the new tunnel? That sounds like a later issue, I'd really focus on one thing at a time and not juggle multiple parts. Gets messy and stressful then. Starting with ripping the interior and stripping it sounds like good idea followed by fixing the small holes.
Little insight on the wiring, any standalone ECU company will have a universal harness, make your own ends for the bulbs your using and the ECU handles the rest, watch Taylor ray with his comp Vette build, it's all super simple so you got nothing to worry about
The first thing you should probably do is strip the car down as far as you want to go. Clean, cut etc until the car is functional even if it doesn't look great. Then get the body work done before finishing up the final wiring. It shouldn't be to difficult just a lot, a lot, a lot of work. You got this Dan.
Dan I'm so jelly about this car that I don't know if I can watch! Lol.. I've wanted a 70 to 73 for 30yrs. I've had a 74,76 and 69 just not the round tail lights! 74 and 6 were white also.. 5 star cragars!! I have 3 kids now instead of cars but one day before I go?? I pray.. wish you the best of luck with this one!!!!
In the words of David Freiburger, "Don't get it right, just get it running." I would get it running and driving before you go all out and make it look all pretty, that way you can enjoy the car more while you're still working on it. It will also allow you to test it more to make sure everything you think you want to do with it is actually what you want it to be like after you start driving it. Plus you won't be so worried about getting rubber all over the back of the car during your first couple burnouts. That's my two cents anyway, I'll still watch the whole build no matter how you do it lol
While chassis is at bodyshop just 1 over the engine and t56 have it bolted up ready to go in and just make a list of everything youd need to do to be back assembled and driving. Goodluck man this things gonna be amazing when its done
So my dad and I have done lots of Chevelles. I have a 69 Chevelle and my dad has three. One of the biggest things that help when doing stuff like this is a rotisserie for the body.
Look into American auto wire kits, I used a factory replacement on a c10 and tapped into it with my Holley terminator x max. I feel like that was the cleanest way to do it. Also left a lot of versatility if I ever wanted to put the small block back into it or use a different combo. Also older gm cars trans tunnels are typically all the same as they didn’t change the press for the small block and big block cars. Should just have to cut a new hole for the shifter and use a tubular crossmember. Also a hammer and dolly will be your best friend on the firewall as you’ll be able to fix the large majority of the creases just by cutting slits in them and banging them flat and rewording the seam you cut.
I have a 72 RS that's been sitting for 26 years. Maybe I can get motivated here. In my defense I have built 2 67 camaros, a 69 4x4 suburban and a 57 Chevy 210 among smaller projects in that time. Problem now is I'm getting old.
and dan please dont forget to RGB lighting everything you can on this classic car. headlights, taillights, headliner, steering wheel, shifter, radio, wheels, underglow, do one of those light up antennas like on those side by sides, and build a center console with storage for a lunch kit
It may not be bad to make a checklist on a white board for the Camaro. You’ve done that on other projects and that may work well for this project. Love the videos. Keep it up honcho. 👍🏻
Electric power steering, you can notch the fire wall weld the hole for the harness plug new brake booster, these cars can pretty much be bolt holes filled except for the necessary things like windshield wiper motor brake booster master cylinder and just making or keeping a hole for the harness that you want to put in.
Need to get the engine and trans in it before paint. Run all your lines and cut the firewall/tunnel for the clearanced you need. Then blow it all back apart and send it off to paint
Man I haven't watched a video this early in a while, can't wait to see what the Camaro becomes! , I hope you can make your dream car exactly how you want it! My dream car is probably a Honda NSX or a Mazda RX7 FD, hopefully soon.
Dan for everything you are saying ....take everything off and send it out to get sand blasted to see what you have as far as rust and holes it will remove the undercoating and trunk shit and remove any mold from the interior and make it a breeze to weld and metalwork .... spray it with weldthru primer to stop it from rusting ........
Learning is always fun but for your first classic send it to someone professional. Use your learning experience for a less valuable chasis. Lol me learning to weld on scrap metal. Also do everything body wise first before sending it off. So you don't have to worry about scratching your paint afterwards.
Idk how expensive or time consuming it is but you could dry ice the underside and the firewall then either paint or power coat the firewall and reline the underside. Just an easy way to get all the crap off.
Pretty sure you can probably use a relocation kit for the t56 transmission, I have an obs 1988 gmc with a 5 speed, I want to swap over to a t56 and all the research I’ve gone in groups and forums have led me to a relocation kit. So I’m pretty sure instead of cutting up the tunnel out you can use one of those and be ready to rock.
a half cage with a main hoop, seat crossmember, and rear braces (with the X in the middle bc racecor) would look sick asf in the same color as ur subframe
Honestly, I would strip the car, and then have the whole thing acid dipped and start from bare metal. Replace and modify any and all sheet metal, then work your way towards finished. Only way to get it exactly how you want.
Honeslty a car like that i would build a period correct motor with fuel injection and the t56. Ls swaps are cool but they are over done. Also you won't need to rewire the lights that plug should have 2 sides the engine side and the light side. Either way whatever way you go I am excited to watch these again
Hey I see you watched the video, but didn't leave a like. No pressure, but it'd be a lot cooler if you did 👁️👄👁️
Hit up JunkYardDigs that iowa boy knows what hes doin
02:35 consignment. Also for the fire wall, just cut metal and patch it to make it smooth, don't use fiberglass, it'll look like shit and will NOT hold up. Trust me old cars flex a lot and the fiberglass will pop. Fiberglass and bondo are the bane of my existence, having worked on old cars over the years.
Hooker’s T-56 Shift Hump Panel (PN 71223008HKR). It’s a timesaver that, when combined with Hooker’s engine mount brackets and transmission crossmember, makes swapping a TREMEC-backed LS engine into a second-gen F-body easy. One piece of advise....don't let the big picture scare you, take it 1 piece at a time and it'll get done. Bust out that dry erase board and list all the things and start marking them off, you got this.
@@ShaqsBigToe69 a collab between these two would be absolutely god tier
I did leave a like, also definitely not just commenting so ya boy gets engagement on the video for that algorithm 👍
Priority - rust repair, fill extra holes, mini tub, roll bar. On the trans tunnel you really need to put in the front sub frame, engine and trans so you can confirm sizing. Be aware it will effect your center console fitment. It’s over whelming if you look at everything that needs to be done, so just focus on ONE thing….complete it and move to the next. You got this🍻💪
Dan is dropping video after video and I'm all for it hell yeah brother
Gunna go hard this year, got my priorities straight and less bullshit in my life! Let's go!
god damn i never thought id see the day, so beyond excited to see this get worked on
Last time I was this early, she made me cry
I would definitely say start with what youre most comfortable with. So that would probably be the fab work. After getting it stripped and everything, make sure the t56 fits and cut the necessary hole for the shifter, clutch, etc. Get it to the body shop. Once paint is done, work on getting the driveline completed. Since one of the last steps is engine wiring (usually) then go for the chassis wiring. Super excited to see you work on this thing man. Cant wait for the coming videos.
The main body harness can stay. Just remove the engine harness portion. You have a “stand alone” engine management system with that Holley system. Just adapt the key on and start circuit from the original harness and that’s about it. It really is pretty simple on the wiring side. It just looks like a pain. If you want to update that old wiring, check out painless wiring or American auto wire for a complete swap in replacement harness. This would be the simplest.
You don't have to rewire everything. You skim the oem harness down to a key on wire/ the starter wire and then all your body wires, lights heater, dash lights and then run the ls stand-alone.. so I wouldn't just get rid of that oem firewall plug unless you want to complete redo it.
I haven’t checked in with Dan in forever. Love you dude! You made “Oh Billllyyy” my catch phrase 😂
Dan, you should look into getting a helper like Chase did for his motorcycle rebuilds. Brian was a massive!!!! help to Chase. I feel like you could use a buddy to keep you going on these projects and bring some more experience to your builds. Love the vids, it’s only work!
I think consignment is the word you were looking for 2:21
Your plan for the car sounds fine to me? Strip it, modify, paint prep, paint, reassemble... but before you do anything to the car, I'd get a storage rack or two and some plastic bins to store the parts you're keeping. I know you have some sort of storage system (leaning shit on the wall) but have a dedicated storage spot that's neatly organized can help down the road. Much love
Man I remember seeing this project start in high school. It's good see the '73 back
And now you are close to retirement? 😂
It’s been a HOT HUMID STEAMY Minute since I’ve watched Dan. I used to ignore his car content and only watch the motovlogs but now I like car stuff and this is the perfect Chanel
I’m so excited to see the Camaro back! You got this Dan ma dude. It’s just work as you always say.
Considering how Odin turned out can’t wait to see what you end up doing with this thing. And hopefully it won’t take 735 years again. Love ya dude!
Dan, absolutely love that you’re back working on the Camaro. However, can we get one good cinematic reveal of Odin similar to what you did with the Magna and Warhorse.
I have nothing to add here. Love you Dan. All hail the algorithm.
I put a cold air intake on my shitbox civic so I am obviously a real mechanic. And I recommend using cardboard to roughly build your parts then cut what you need in metal using the cardboard as a guide.
Glad to see ya working on it again! I’m in a similar boat with my s10 blazer project, bad timing and poor decision making and next thing ya know it’s been years and nothings done. My .02 would be to strip the interior, fix all the rust, do the mini tub, and then do a “test assembly” put the whole drivetrain in, do the roll cage, do ALL the fabrication/customization you want to do, especially if you’re going to have someone else do the body work and paint it, the last thing you wanna do is have to get a portion repainted because you changed your mind. And if this is truly a life long car, i think it would be worth having the whole car stripped/sand blasted inside and out and get the under side properly re seam sealed and painted/coated along with the interior. Can’t wait to see where ya take this build Dan!
I'm stoked to see this build Dan and this car fit so well together
I’ve waited 2 years for this. Been looking for a 73’ myself. Can’t wait to see this thing finished
100% got the right idea with getting it mechanically solid and sending it to someone to get body work and paint done. it would be awesome if you could find a shop that wanted to let you kinda watch and learn from them the way dan does with everything. that last sentence may not make sense but hopefully it comes across right, cause some of my favorite videos are of you being the jack of all trades learning from a master of the craft!
so... for those who dont know. spot welds and seams serve a purpose, the car will naturally twist and flex from usage as well as expand and contract on hot and cold days. when building race cars fully welding every seam will result in the body developing serious cracks that are hard to repair without replacing the metal. Usually the seams are stich welded and seam sealed to increase rigidity without this cracking issue. also, don't forget to reinstall drain holes in areas you replace, then cavity wax them before humidity or water gets in, you can spray the backside with weld through primer before install to help this.
I would highly recommend a product called POR, (Paint Over Rust). It actually penetrates the pores of the metal itself and stops rust from spreading. Clean up the surface, get rid of any current rust or any damage that has been done and then spray the POR over the entire area. I think this would be a really good option for your firewall, frame, and any other body panels.
FINALLY! I've been so fuckin hyped to see the Camaro get the love it deserves!
Painless Wiring would be your best bet to get it rewired or even Holly. I'd bet you could take care of 90% of the body work and a tube just behind the seats with a bar for a 4 or 5 point harness. You got this Dan, just do one section at a time.
I’m so excited for this project. Been waiting to see it get done for years. Don’t worry so much about it Dan, you may be figuring shit out on the fly but it’s fine. You did the same shit with the dually and taught yourself how to do a bunch of the work and it turned out dope. Just take it a piece at a time and you’ll get there eventually.
Seeing that Dan made a 15min video that I can use to time my break at work is honestly amazing 🤩
Hey Dan, for your panel work I would recommend Make it Custom channel. Karl is an amazing teacher with ton of videos about body work and stuff
Yours and Gavin’s Camaros rolling around together is going to look deadly
Also companies who do stand alone harness's can make whips for a body harness as well. Rywire and a few companies offer a generic kit you can use to map out what you need for engine and what you want for the body.
Dan's been working hard man. Smashing out the content 💪🏾. Absolutely love to see it dude. Just take your time with this man. Get it stripped, get it rolling, get it cleaned. Go from there. Its just work 👌
Look into a tiger roll cage seems to be what you are looking for. Don't trash the factory bulkhead as you will still use that for stock lights. Now you could always do your own and change bulkheads but the. Your going into a whole extra project. Is your concern on firewall more clearance or appearance? I would probably say clearance it, clean it up seal it then use the plasma to cut a firewall plate and rivnut that to the existing firewall. Gives you a nice smooth wall with just the holes you need. Also interested in them seats for my 75 if you decide to part with them
@DOITWITHDAN You should use one of those seats for the race simulator seat keep the nostalgia around.
Consignment was the word you were looking for Dan lol
LFG!!!!! THE ‘73 is back BABY!!!!! Can’t wait to see the progress my guy💪🏻
You could maybe do floor pan replacement panels and weld those in while you're doing the tubs. Then you could bulkhead the backseat area so you have a clean slate for any shenanigans you want to do for the backseat area and map out your half cage and have a solid foundation?🤷
For the firewall, I wouldn't fiberglass it. Heat can make it separate and crack and look like shit after a while. Just patch the holes and grind the welds flat so that it can be painted and be nice and clean. There are also HVAC systems that you can get that will be modern and cleaner that you can pop in. I don't remember if you did it but there are also modernized vintage replacement dash kits you can get with gauges and all that. Just a thought! I'm so fucking stoked for this, dude!
Dan, just a heads up, if ur removing the entire floor pans or a large part of them , Dont cut the floor pans outta ur car without putting some type of support bars inside, from side to side or corner to corner bc once u cut the metal from the floors the body will twist or become outta square then u will have a nightmare to deal with. also using the proper bracing u can also remove the entire firewall if u wanted and replace it with a more flat style firewall, actually i think u can buy those, or you could cut it on your plasma table. hope this helps, i cant wait to see it when ur finished with it.
I love this car and proud of your patience can’t wait to see your end result and how much hard work it took to get there! Go Dan! Hope all is well
I'm restoring an 85 Buick Regal with my dad. Sounds like you already have a solid plan. Just gotta tackle one section at a time.
It's just work... but you have to remember when building a project car of this scale is... it's a LOT of work.
Be focused, Have a plan! And mock up everything! Everything going in needs to be mocked up an fitted before taking it apart again for paint etc.
Woofers and gun storage, I dig it.
As for my like button press
it was the slowly dropping lift for me.
Tho, I'd hit it a second time for that carry belt and reaction.
Will you need to somehow fit the engine and transmission to build the new tunnel? That sounds like a later issue, I'd really focus on one thing at a time and not juggle multiple parts. Gets messy and stressful then. Starting with ripping the interior and stripping it sounds like good idea followed by fixing the small holes.
You can weld angle iron in the floor for strengthening... that's what we do on the Hondas
Little insight on the wiring, any standalone ECU company will have a universal harness, make your own ends for the bulbs your using and the ECU handles the rest, watch Taylor ray with his comp Vette build, it's all super simple so you got nothing to worry about
The first thing you should probably do is strip the car down as far as you want to go. Clean, cut etc until the car is functional even if it doesn't look great. Then get the body work done before finishing up the final wiring. It shouldn't be to difficult just a lot, a lot, a lot of work. You got this Dan.
Been using Kore belts for about 5 years and they are amazing
Dan I'm so jelly about this car that I don't know if I can watch! Lol.. I've wanted a 70 to 73 for 30yrs. I've had a 74,76 and 69 just not the round tail lights! 74 and 6 were white also.. 5 star cragars!! I have 3 kids now instead of cars but one day before I go?? I pray.. wish you the best of luck with this one!!!!
So happy to see this thing back in videos
Hell yeah. Still sucks that Dan got burned when he bought it, but it's still my favorite build Dan has.
Murica brother so happy to see you work on this.
Heck yeah my boy. I've been looking forward to this build starting back up.
Please bring back the “hey guys do it with dickhead” 😂😂 that shit kills me everytime
I wear Anson belts that are like the ones in the sponsorship. Can confirm it’s 100% the best style of belt ever and worth every cent
Tried looking for the backpacks but I don’t think they actually have those. Can’t wait to see you ripping the 73 down the road!
dang dude ive been waiting for this video, glad to see you picking up motivation for the car again
just have to add this is a great sponsor i have a kore essentials belt and i love it! i cant go back to a normal belt
In the words of David Freiburger, "Don't get it right, just get it running." I would get it running and driving before you go all out and make it look all pretty, that way you can enjoy the car more while you're still working on it. It will also allow you to test it more to make sure everything you think you want to do with it is actually what you want it to be like after you start driving it. Plus you won't be so worried about getting rubber all over the back of the car during your first couple burnouts. That's my two cents anyway, I'll still watch the whole build no matter how you do it lol
While chassis is at bodyshop just 1 over the engine and t56 have it bolted up ready to go in and just make a list of everything youd need to do to be back assembled and driving. Goodluck man this things gonna be amazing when its done
I would recommend Ty that works for Garrett aka Cletus for the fab work and Derek for from VGG for your "conversion" for the engine and wiring.
So my dad and I have done lots of Chevelles. I have a 69 Chevelle and my dad has three. One of the biggest things that help when doing stuff like this is a rotisserie for the body.
Look into American auto wire kits, I used a factory replacement on a c10 and tapped into it with my Holley terminator x max. I feel like that was the cleanest way to do it. Also left a lot of versatility if I ever wanted to put the small block back into it or use a different combo. Also older gm cars trans tunnels are typically all the same as they didn’t change the press for the small block and big block cars. Should just have to cut a new hole for the shifter and use a tubular crossmember. Also a hammer and dolly will be your best friend on the firewall as you’ll be able to fix the large majority of the creases just by cutting slits in them and banging them flat and rewording the seam you cut.
I agree with American auto wire. They Will build anything that you need and it's clean.
I have a 72 RS that's been sitting for 26 years. Maybe I can get motivated here. In my defense I have built 2 67 camaros, a 69 4x4 suburban and a 57 Chevy 210 among smaller projects in that time. Problem now is I'm getting old.
and dan please dont forget to RGB lighting everything you can on this classic car. headlights, taillights, headliner, steering wheel, shifter, radio, wheels, underglow, do one of those light up antennas like on those side by sides, and build a center console with storage for a lunch kit
Turn the car into an RGB bulb on wheels for max efficiency
It may not be bad to make a checklist on a white board for the Camaro. You’ve done that on other projects and that may work well for this project. Love the videos. Keep it up honcho. 👍🏻
Electric power steering, you can notch the fire wall weld the hole for the harness plug new brake booster, these cars can pretty much be bolt holes filled except for the necessary things like windshield wiper motor brake booster master cylinder and just making or keeping a hole for the harness that you want to put in.
Dropping 30k on a car for it to then sit on a lift for 2 years is rough. But it should be good motivation to get it done. Excited to see the progress
Need to get the engine and trans in it before paint. Run all your lines and cut the firewall/tunnel for the clearanced you need. Then blow it all back apart and send it off to paint
Man I haven't watched a video this early in a while, can't wait to see what the Camaro becomes! , I hope you can make your dream car exactly how you want it! My dream car is probably a Honda NSX or a Mazda RX7 FD, hopefully soon.
The word you were looking for was consignment Dan. Rock on bro.
Dan for everything you are saying ....take everything off and send it out to get sand blasted to see what you have as far as rust and holes it will remove the undercoating and trunk shit and remove any mold from the interior and make it a breeze to weld and metalwork .... spray it with weldthru primer to stop it from rusting ........
I'm looking forward to this build again.
2:22 the word your looking for dan is consignment
Strip it all the way down, acid dip it. That would be the way to tackle all the rust, that way you can get rid of most of all the rust.
Learning is always fun but for your first classic send it to someone professional. Use your learning experience for a less valuable chasis. Lol me learning to weld on scrap metal. Also do everything body wise first before sending it off. So you don't have to worry about scratching your paint afterwards.
We love you Dan‼️
Hell yeah so pumped for this build
Classic industries will have alot of patch panels if you need them there are mini tub kits for these cars that might be of use to you
HYPED! Cant wait to see this done
Kore belt has been on my waist for 3 years. Same belt, everyday, summer, winter, 20lbs ago, and right now.
Consignment. Damn, i had to stop what I was doing to think of the word you were looking for lol
Idk how expensive or time consuming it is but you could dry ice the underside and the firewall then either paint or power coat the firewall and reline the underside. Just an easy way to get all the crap off.
you could get the halo tail lights like the corvettes owners get and make some infinite loop taillights or something
let me just say that dan being overwhelmed only leads to amazing end products like the one and only odin!!
body work is easy to do by yourself however it’s VERY time consuming and for paint you’d have to make sure there’s no dust and all that floating aroun
Pretty sure you can probably use a relocation kit for the t56 transmission, I have an obs 1988 gmc with a 5 speed, I want to swap over to a t56 and all the research I’ve gone in groups and forums have led me to a relocation kit. So I’m pretty sure instead of cutting up the tunnel out you can use one of those and be ready to rock.
I'm so excited for this series..
I got visibly excited when i saw this video in my feed
a half cage with a main hoop, seat crossmember, and rear braces (with the X in the middle bc racecor) would look sick asf in the same color as ur subframe
Super excited to see how the camaro turns out
Hellyeah Dan. Excited to see what you do with this car because this is one of my dream cars also.
Consignment...that's the word your looking for. 👌
Fuck yeah Happy you posted Dan been having a rough week this will make it a little better
It’s about damn time! Can’t wait to see the Camaro project get done.
It’s just work! Keep it up Dan.
Honestly, I would strip the car, and then have the whole thing acid dipped and start from bare metal. Replace and modify any and all sheet metal, then work your way towards finished. Only way to get it exactly how you want.
Good to see you Dan.
SAVE THE MANUALS!!!
bro wtf just realized you and gavin both have old camaros with different engines that have sat around for way to long😂 hope they get done can’t wait
If it were me doing this project, I'd get the motor and trans in do little things and carry it to a shop.
A collab with MuscleRodShop would be sweet, trailer the car out to Texas with Odin and shoot some videos
Honeslty a car like that i would build a period correct motor with fuel injection and the t56. Ls swaps are cool but they are over done. Also you won't need to rewire the lights that plug should have 2 sides the engine side and the light side. Either way whatever way you go I am excited to watch these again