I can't tell you how many projects I've botched trying to cut a straight line with my circular saw. I'd seen a way to use a board as a guide. Your solution is simply better and more efficient, also very cost effective. Thanks a million.
I can't for the life of me cut a straight line with my circular saw. I use straight edges and clamps, but they slip or something. This will be a great answer to that problem, instead of using my table saw for the long board cuts I need from time to time. Thanks for sharing. Tommy.
I was pondering this exact problem last night lol. The universe provides :) I'd be tempted to screw a crosswise piece to the underside of the jig at one end so I can just slam it up against the side of a sheet for quicker setup.
I keep thinking about adding a t-square to one end to make it easier, but I haven't tried it yet. I'm sure it would work...as long as you get it PERFECT when you install it. Anyway, good luck!
I just watched this video (again, after about a year in-between viewings). I am looking at having to dimension a lot of sheet goods and I remembered your video and liked it a lot. Then I had this very depressing thought that now, with the prices of lumbers and sheet goods being what they are, the price of one sheet of decent plywood to make your saw track is more by $20 than buying the Kreg 48" straight edge guide. That's really depressing, because I really like your minimalistic mindset in all of your projects. Thank you for continuing.
Excellent video! Thank you very much for this. I just finished building this track saw using *7/6" OSB Plywood*. I don't own a table saw. The only power tools I have are a circular saw and a power drill. Every other design, as Tommy indicated, only has one track fence on one side to guide the saw not two sides. @One Minute Workbench, Tommy, you should have a segment titled: *Frugal Fridays* where you build stuff with only a circular saw and a power drill, for example. Thank you for your work. Greetings from Canada.
Excellent Video and thanks a lot. You are the best. Because I was planning to buy the Makita rip fence track saw and after watching your great video I decided to make one by myself. 🤝
I've made a couple of one-sided saw tracks for my circular saws. They do just as well as this one, but are less cumbersome. That said, this design appears to be more robust and less liable to damage than the more free-form versions.
Wow this is awesome. My circular saw is not a plunge one so I will have to figure out how to adapt it. Maybe I put one stop (left one), start the cut on the other end but just cut a few inches, add the right stop and then finish the cut all the way to the left end. 🤔
Brilliant saw guide! Trapping the saw between 2 straight edges is the way to go, especially if you've set it down too hard one too many times, and the foot is no longer perfectly parallel to the blade, which will cause the cut to wander away (or toward) a simple clamped straight edge, if you're not careful. Plus great way to demo making the guide, showing all the steps in a clear, easy to understand manner. Definitely clicking Like on this one!
Nice video. I have been obsessed with woodworking vids during this lock down and this is the best I've seen. Very clear, though I had to dig into comments for dimensions. Which is ok, cause there is a lot of useful info there. I look forward to your micro workbench vids next!
I'm already subscribed and clicked the notification button so I don't miss any of these build series. I can already tell I'm going to thumbs up every one of these build series.
I just built this and it’s working great. Something I discovered which will make the process a bit more foolproof is cutting both the track edges from the outside of a factory cut sheet. That way you aren’t relying on being able to cut a matching straight cut only using the first piece as a straight edge. Your cuts could essentially be all over the place freehand and still have a perfect track.
Thanks for sharing that tip! The only downside to doing it that was is that now the remainder of your sheet will have 2 edges that are hand cut, which will make it more difficult to work with. As long as you're okay with that, yes, cutting off the factory edges at the start will make the whole process easier. Thanks again!
i'd thought your 1st iteration was brill, but after seeing a link in the comments to this updated version, you've also got my respect for taking constructive feedback! ...what are your thoughts on 2 strips of acrylic tape (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene [UHMW] film, aka: low-friction tape) as rails under the saw plate, & maybe 2 more on the track edge sides (applied before the edges are secured)? it's super thin, but makes wood slicker than plastic.
This will be the first project with my circular saw, cheers for your simple yet solid video! Just a quick question, what is the material thickness and the length of the board? Should I go for the cheapest ply or a decent hardwood one?
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Board should be probably 1/2” thick at minimum, 60” long (for making 48” cross cuts). Better plywood is always better, but you could get by with cheaper stuff. I hope this helps - good luck with the project!
I tought it was sloppy. Then I realized that it allows clamps (as seen in the test cut) to sit lower so that they don't interfere with the circular saw.
Thank you! I really like Baltic Birch for it’s balance of quality and affordability. It’s expensive, but not as expensive as most marine grade plywood’s. It’s quality is *very* good when compared to anything available at the big box store. I hope this helps!
Hey Tommy, I left you a message when you created Track Saw 1.0. I was pleasantly excited when you built it for a Skilsaw Mag 77 - that's what I use. After watching all three vids, I finally built one after I acquired some 1/2" ply. I haven't tested it yet, but I'll be re-building the top of my workbench, and I'll be cutting one-inch-thick solid oak with it. Great job! BTW, I also saw pieces of your other work, such as your espresxx@%#$@ THE LEVERHEAD! - you're not a woodworker; you're an engineer. CLAP!
Thanks so much for this. I really enjoy your videos. I just started wood working and the first thing I built after my workbench is this track. I really enjoyed making and using it. One question I have is this: What would happen if I tilted my saw to 45 degrees? I imagine the groove would become wider. But would it break? Would it be useful if I needed to cut a long piece of wood at 45 degrees? Thanks!
No problem! You could definitely do it, but as you mentioned, you'll change the width of the slot. This will destroy the zero-clearance feature of the track. Another thing to think about is that a track like this is mainly made for breaking down sheet goods. Profiling would normally be done another tool...probably a table saw (when it comes to miters like that). Although, depending on the project, it could be useful. If you know you cut a lot of long 45 degree edges, then it might be worth it to have a track dedicated for that task. Anyway, I hope this helps - good luck!
Thank you for the advice. I think I’ll keep it as-is. I hope to build a table saw someday. Or maybe your mini workshop, which looks awesome. But I’m still just a beginner.
how about seeing if you could create a guide for full sheets of plywood by using half lap joints on 2 saw guides, mated together, or something of the like
Great guide. I watched all your three videos on making the saw guides. One question - do you recommend using 1/2" material for the base or can I use 1/4" material to keep the weight down? Or in your experience is the 1/4" material too thin to compromise the integrity of the saw? Thanks in advance.
From the looks of it you made this jig just lonv enough to crosscut a 4 foot sheet of plywood? So the overall length would be at least 5 ft but less than six since I don't know how tall you are.
I already own a track saw but I only have 4 feet of track... This is a fantastic way for me to add an 8 foot track without having to spend the money on another 4' length and connectors!
I dig this as well with the 2 straight edges - would you recommend poly'ing the track and glides for even smoother glide. Im gonna make this - thanks dude
I was thinking of using some polyethylene tape (a.k.a. UHMW polyethylene). I'm concerned that a wax or polyurethane might soften in warmer, more humid environments and start picking up grit or sawdust. Great work One Minute Workbench.
Think i'm going to make one of these but use aluminum L track for the rails! Adds a small amount to the cost but lets me make one near 8' without problems in straight edges i'm thinking. The plywood in my climate warps SO bad.
I used 1/2" ply for this track, and the overall length is about 60" (this gives you a long enough slot to cross-cut a 48" wide sheet). The guide rails and overall width of the track are somewhat arbitrary...they just need to be a minimum width based on your saw. So if your saw is 5" wide, and (let's say) each rail is 2", then the base will need to be at least 9". Does that make sense? Any wider is fine too...as you can see on this build, the track is actually wider than necessary, but that just makes it easier to clamp. I hope this helps! Good luck!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench It may be arbitrary but I observed a couple of useful width measurements in play: 1. your guide rails are about the width of inner edge of the base plate to the end of the saw motor, allowing the saw a free run on a busy table and keeping the clamping section clear. 2. the extra clamping width is from the saw blade to the outer edge of the base plate, simplifying your final trim cut. Going to make one this weekend and will use these guidelines, but they seem helpful at the beginning when choosing the width of the first cut and the first guide rail position.
This is awesome! I'm just starting to get into woodworking and haven't yet invested in a table saw. Thanks for walking me through how to create this track with just my circular saw!!
Love this innovation best. Thank god I waited. They just keep getting better. One thing you didn’t explain was. Size, like how long is it. Also. On your first one you made it was from 3/4” plywood. Is this one the same thickness? I have a gob of 3/4” MDF. Is that sturdy enough? Other than it would weigh a million pounds lol. I have like three of you projects in my plans book waiting to get built. Thanks.
Michael, I'd make it about 60" long, and that'll make sure you can make cross-cuts on regular (48" wide) sheet stock. The first one was 3/4", and this one is 1/2". 3/4" MDF would probably work, but as you mentioned, might be pretty heavy. If the MDF is scrap, there's no harm in trying and seeing how you like it. Let me know how it goes!
I built a saw track after watching this video, except I had some square aluminum tubing which I used for one of the guides. I also had only 1/4" underlayment plywood, which is stronger and smoother than lauan, so it works great, and I get almost full blade depth. I added a second sq. tubing guide for stiffness on the other side, where it wouldn't interfere with the saw motor. Very inspiring to see what you can build without a table saw! I had to do some home repairs, and my track came in SO handy. No more wobbly trim boards, but nice straight edges instead. Thank you!
I'm looking at building a micro-camper out of 4 X 8 sheets of plywood using a very limited tool kit, so this looks like a real lifesaver in terms of providing the accuracy I need. Thanks much.
You said this was your 3rd track saw. I saw the 1st and then what i guess was the 2nd (with the plexiglass inserts) and now this one with no plexiglass or am I i missing some track builds as i didn't see any plexiglass inserts on this one? Thanks
The Plexiglas was really based on viewer requests for something that maintained 100% zero-clearance. It's good if you're doing "furniture quality" cuts, but for this project, it would have been overkill. I hope this helps!
Just completed the Saw Track. Simple and effective. First cuts made on the MicroShop plans using the Saw Track, all good so far and a great help to keep the lines accurate. I will see how it goes and maybe consider the addition of the Perspex inserts. Thanks from across the pond!
I'm a bit tight on space would like a vertical panel saw using your idea say 5 degrees back tilt or more for safety., removable or & fixed stops thinking pin's vertically & horizontally every 100mm or 2, be able to move saw & guide Not the panel. I'm one for 1mm plus accuracy.
I have home Depot cut all my forebay eight sheet plywood pieces because I can't handle an 8-ft piece of plywood anymore. So most of my cuts are going to be four feet across. How long did you make your guide? How long should I make it to be able to cut across a 4-ft piece of plywood?
When this video first came out I needed and made a copy of the guide. Well, I thought that was what I was doing. In an effort to keep it light (and giving in to my thrifty Scot ancestry), I used 5mm flooring underlayment and ripped a poplar 1x4 for the sides. The poplar pulled inward causing it to pinch the saw slightly. ANY pinch is too much. It's a great tool but I would have saved materials and money to make the sides from plywood as you did to begin with. I think the 5mm plywood floor underlayment would have been fine if I had used full width poplar 1x4s or thicker plywood as you did . The design is terrific. The flaws were of my own making.
Thanks for sharing so much detail about your build! Lots of people talk about making it out of thinner material, and I always caution against it. Everyone seems to think that the weight will be unbearable, but it's really not that heavy, and it is SOLID the way it is built with high quality 1/2" ply. Anyway, thanks again for sharing - let me know if you do a rebuild, and how that goes!
I was thinking of going down from 1/2" to 3/8" (~10 mm) on the base until I checked the weight difference. It's only about 1 lb less so I'm going to stick with the 1/2". Then I won't have to buy different material for the side rails (cheap American : )
I just made one, but didn't worked with my cordless circular saw. Sadly, the machine bump on the side is hindering me to plunge deeper. I guess i'll just buy another circular saw with larger disk.
What model of circular saw do you have? I made one for my DeWalt cordless, and it has just enough clearance to fully lower. That said, you don’t actually need your saw to bottom out in order for it to work. As long as the blade goes through deep enough to cut your material, that’s all you need. Does that make sense? Let me know!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench My circular saw has 40mm maximum clearance, and in that case I can cut 2 pcs of 3/4 but unfortunately the guide on the right side exhaust of my saw is being blocked by the 3/4s i used. Dumb me, didn't even calculated that before glueing it together. anyway, I'm planning to remove that piece, and change it with a 1/4" plywood instead. hope it works! after this, i'll be buying your microshop plans!!
Thank you! I think the sweet spot is around 1/2". As some have mentioned, you could use thinner material for the base (maybe 1/4") and then 1/2" for the rails and probably be okay. I haven't tested it yet though, so if you do, be sure to let us know how it goes!
Hello OMW! That's really nice... I bought a long aluminium clamp made for cutting 4'x8' boards, but I find it can be a little clunky to use, you need to push down on the ends if your sheet isn't completely flat before tightening the clamp. The track you built would prevent the blade from moving in any way, which can (will?) happen if you only have one fence. Plus, when you are tired at the end of the day, it keeps the saw absolutely straight without much effort. Before I put up my aluminium guide for sale, am I missing something here? Thanks again for your good video.
This is exactly what I need. Thanks. Do you have a good trick for cleaning up the squeeze-out? It strikes me that any left over bits would stop the saw's nice smooth run.
I sometimes take a small scrap of plywood (which has a nice square corner) and run it down the joint. The corner of the plywood will scrap away all the squeeze out perfectly. I hope this helps!
This is a genius build! I recently embarked on my first woodworking project with a cheap circular saw and some full boards of plywood. I was so lost on how to start, given that I didn't have any sort of track or even straight edge that'd run the length of a 4x8 sheet, and seemingly no way to build a track without an existing one. The method of using the factory edge and freehanding it is so obvious now you've shown it to me but would never have occurred to me on my own. Thanks so much for the video!
If you put a nonskid material on the bottom, you won't necessarily have to clamp it and 2 cuts for longer boards would work. Non skid shelving or carpet pieces would work I think. I use them for making pieces stationary for sanding.
Thank you! It was about 5 bucks at Harbor Freight. Actually, one of the better products I've purchased from them. It's nice and square, and it looks like the plastic is fiber-reinforced. I also appreciate that it is oversized. That really goes along way in try to square up larger items. Anyway, I hope this helps!
Im going to make this this weekend!! How thin can i go for the board/plywood? I have a ryobi 5.5 inch circular saw. The motor gets in the way and i loose thread depth on a .75 inch plywood
Thanks for recommending this video. Definitely will try it. Going to pick up a new blade for my circular saw today and some more material to start this project 😀
I have to agree with "Wood Works Extreme"! I have to try to make this track. If everything works, I know it will be a well used jig! Keep up with the great videos!
This is the 3rd one of these that I've seen from you about making a saw track (and I've thought every one was brilliant!!!). On the 2nd one, you added some plexiglass where the sight holes are, and that seemed like a brilliant idea to align with the marks on the wood you are cutting. What made you decide not to do that with this version?
I can't tell you how many projects I've botched trying to cut a straight line with my circular saw. I'd seen a way to use a board as a guide. Your solution is simply better and more efficient, also very cost effective. Thanks a million.
Thanks! I'm glad you like it!
Muito bom gostaria de fazer uma dessa
Why spend the money on fancy tools and jigs, when it is more fun and satisfying to DIY..good video mate..
Thank you!
This is the best video I have seen for a DIY track saw. Much better than a one edge guide!
I'm glad you like it!
I can't for the life of me cut a straight line with my circular saw. I use straight edges and clamps, but they slip or something. This will be a great answer to that problem, instead of using my table saw for the long board cuts I need from time to time. Thanks for sharing. Tommy.
Thank you! I’m glad you found it helpful!
Fantastic- exactly what I need. A table saw will be coming eventually but for now the circular gets it done with the right track. Great video!
Thank you! I’m glad you found it to be helpful!
I was pondering this exact problem last night lol. The universe provides :)
I'd be tempted to screw a crosswise piece to the underside of the jig at one end so I can just slam it up against the side of a sheet for quicker setup.
I keep thinking about adding a t-square to one end to make it easier, but I haven't tried it yet. I'm sure it would work...as long as you get it PERFECT when you install it. Anyway, good luck!
Good idea!
I just watched this video (again, after about a year in-between viewings). I am looking at having to dimension a lot of sheet goods and I remembered your video and liked it a lot. Then I had this very depressing thought that now, with the prices of lumbers and sheet goods being what they are, the price of one sheet of decent plywood to make your saw track is more by $20 than buying the Kreg 48" straight edge guide. That's really depressing, because I really like your minimalistic mindset in all of your projects. Thank you for continuing.
Excellent video! Thank you very much for this. I just finished building this track saw using *7/6" OSB Plywood*. I don't own a table saw. The only power tools I have are a circular saw and a power drill. Every other design, as Tommy indicated, only has one track fence on one side to guide the saw not two sides.
@One Minute Workbench, Tommy, you should have a segment titled: *Frugal Fridays* where you build stuff with only a circular saw and a power drill, for example. Thank you for your work. Greetings from Canada.
Excellent Video and thanks a lot.
You are the best.
Because I was planning to buy the Makita rip fence track saw and after watching your great video I decided to make one by myself. 🤝
Thank you!
I've made a couple of one-sided saw tracks for my circular saws. They do just as well as this one, but are less cumbersome. That said, this design appears to be more robust and less liable to damage than the more free-form versions.
Thanks for sharing your thoughts!
Great idea. I was looking for a straight edge to cut large sheets. Now I can make my own. Thanks!
Excellent video, well-edited, clear instruction! This is just what I needed since I do not own a table saw! Thank you very much.
Wow this is awesome. My circular saw is not a plunge one so I will have to figure out how to adapt it. Maybe I put one stop (left one), start the cut on the other end but just cut a few inches, add the right stop and then finish the cut all the way to the left end. 🤔
Brilliant saw guide! Trapping the saw between 2 straight edges is the way to go, especially if you've set it down too hard one too many times, and the foot is no longer perfectly parallel to the blade, which will cause the cut to wander away (or toward) a simple clamped straight edge, if you're not careful. Plus great way to demo making the guide, showing all the steps in a clear, easy to understand manner. Definitely clicking Like on this one!
Thank you!
very clear tutorial, thanks for sharing this
Thank you!
Nice video. I have been obsessed with woodworking vids during this lock down and this is the best I've seen. Very clear, though I had to dig into comments for dimensions. Which is ok, cause there is a lot of useful info there. I look forward to your micro workbench vids next!
Thank you, Ted! I'm glad my videos are helping you get through it!
I'm already subscribed and clicked the notification button so I don't miss any of these build series. I can already tell I'm going to thumbs up every one of these build series.
This is a great project - and I need to build it - so, thanks!
I just built this and it’s working great. Something I discovered which will make the process a bit more foolproof is cutting both the track edges from the outside of a factory cut sheet. That way you aren’t relying on being able to cut a matching straight cut only using the first piece as a straight edge. Your cuts could essentially be all over the place freehand and still have a perfect track.
Thanks for sharing that tip! The only downside to doing it that was is that now the remainder of your sheet will have 2 edges that are hand cut, which will make it more difficult to work with. As long as you're okay with that, yes, cutting off the factory edges at the start will make the whole process easier. Thanks again!
Thought to having two rough cut edges. With the captured saw design you could add a square to one end and you can work off of that edge.
I love it!!! I will be making one today! Thanks!
I am subscribing to your channel because I wanna see more of your work!
i'd thought your 1st iteration was brill, but after seeing a link in the comments to this updated version, you've also got my respect for taking constructive feedback!
...what are your thoughts on 2 strips of acrylic tape (ultra-high molecular weight polyethylene [UHMW] film, aka: low-friction tape) as rails under the saw plate, & maybe 2 more on the track edge sides (applied before the edges are secured)? it's super thin, but makes wood slicker than plastic.
This will be the first project with my circular saw, cheers for your simple yet solid video!
Just a quick question, what is the material thickness and the length of the board? Should I go for the cheapest ply or a decent hardwood one?
Thanks, I’m glad you enjoyed it! Board should be probably 1/2” thick at minimum, 60” long (for making 48” cross cuts). Better plywood is always better, but you could get by with cheaper stuff. I hope this helps - good luck with the project!
This is the best track saw I have ever seen, easy to make and works perfectly
Version 3, It just gets better an better...
Why did you leave the base wider than the guide strips? Also, brilliant, thanks so much for this walkthrough.
I tought it was sloppy. Then I realized that it allows clamps (as seen in the test cut) to sit lower so that they don't interfere with the circular saw.
Great! But why not use the second factory edge for that second cut? That way, it will be straight.
I agree, surprised that more people haven't mentioned this
Fantastic. Thanks
This is a great video and very well explained! Any particular type of board would you say is better for this and other jigs?
Thank you! I really like Baltic Birch for it’s balance of quality and affordability. It’s expensive, but not as expensive as most marine grade plywood’s. It’s quality is *very* good when compared to anything available at the big box store. I hope this helps!
Hey Tommy, I left you a message when you created Track Saw 1.0. I was pleasantly excited when you built it for a Skilsaw Mag 77 - that's what I use. After watching all three vids, I finally built one after I acquired some 1/2" ply. I haven't tested it yet, but I'll be re-building the top of my workbench, and I'll be cutting one-inch-thick solid oak with it. Great job! BTW, I also saw pieces of your other work, such as your espresxx@%#$@ THE LEVERHEAD! - you're not a woodworker; you're an engineer. CLAP!
Thanks for watching the channel and the kind words! I hope the track works well for you!
I just used the track-saw. It worked like a charm! I'm impressed with it's accuracy. Nice design, Tommy. Easy to build as well. CLAP!
Thanks so much for this. I really enjoy your videos. I just started wood working and the first thing I built after my workbench is this track. I really enjoyed making and using it. One question I have is this: What would happen if I tilted my saw to 45 degrees? I imagine the groove would become wider. But would it break? Would it be useful if I needed to cut a long piece of wood at 45 degrees? Thanks!
No problem! You could definitely do it, but as you mentioned, you'll change the width of the slot. This will destroy the zero-clearance feature of the track. Another thing to think about is that a track like this is mainly made for breaking down sheet goods. Profiling would normally be done another tool...probably a table saw (when it comes to miters like that). Although, depending on the project, it could be useful. If you know you cut a lot of long 45 degree edges, then it might be worth it to have a track dedicated for that task. Anyway, I hope this helps - good luck!
Thank you for the advice. I think I’ll keep it as-is. I hope to build a table saw someday. Or maybe your mini workshop, which looks awesome. But I’m still just a beginner.
No problem! Best of luck!
What material did you use? How about some dimensions?
how about seeing if you could create a guide for full sheets of plywood by using half lap joints on 2 saw guides, mated together, or something of the like
Thank you! This is EXACTLY what I've been looking for!
I'm guessing you could also use angle-iron (or aluminium?) as side guides.
Great guide. I watched all your three videos on making the saw guides. One question - do you recommend using 1/2" material for the base or can I use 1/4" material to keep the weight down? Or in your experience is the 1/4" material too thin to compromise the integrity of the saw? Thanks in advance.
Definately going to mak this jig...do you have one to rip a 4×8 plywood?
No plexiglass on this version (3)? Was the plexiglass in the sight-holes worth the trouble?
From the looks of it you made this jig just lonv enough to crosscut a 4 foot sheet of plywood? So the overall length would be at least 5 ft but less than six since I don't know how tall you are.
Billy, yes it is exactly 5'. I hope this helps!
I already own a track saw but I only have 4 feet of track... This is a fantastic way for me to add an 8 foot track without having to spend the money on another 4' length and connectors!
How long did u make the track 4 feet
The track is about 60”, which is just long enough to make a 48” cross-cut. I hope this helps!
I dig this as well with the 2 straight edges - would you recommend poly'ing the track and glides for even smoother glide. Im gonna make this - thanks dude
Thanks! I think poly would probably make it slide better, at least after it had some time to cure and harden. I hope this helps!
How about paste wax?
I was thinking of using some polyethylene tape (a.k.a. UHMW polyethylene). I'm concerned that a wax or polyurethane might soften in warmer, more humid environments and start picking up grit or sawdust.
Great work One Minute Workbench.
@@njminer Could this old woman ask you please..what width and thickness would you use? Thank you, in advance if you answer.
I see you've had a tool upgrade since the first build 👍🏼
Think i'm going to make one of these but use aluminum L track for the rails! Adds a small amount to the cost but lets me make one near 8' without problems in straight edges i'm thinking. The plywood in my climate warps SO bad.
I will work off or this to make 1 for my home improve projs. Thx. -R
Great video. Is there a reason why you made the sides on this track so much wider than your first two?
I'm going to make one of these today. You made it so easy to understand, even I can do this. Thanks...I subscribed too....Love this channel
Linda, good luck with the project, thanks for subscribing, and welcome to the channel!
How would you piece one of these that could be used to cut a full sheet of plywood the long way?
Well done, nicely explained and demonstrated. As always, thank you for your knowledge and time!
Thank you, Dave!
What is the size of the saw track? how much thickness? Would you like to give us the specification of your DIY Saw Track. Thank you.
I used 1/2" ply for this track, and the overall length is about 60" (this gives you a long enough slot to cross-cut a 48" wide sheet). The guide rails and overall width of the track are somewhat arbitrary...they just need to be a minimum width based on your saw. So if your saw is 5" wide, and (let's say) each rail is 2", then the base will need to be at least 9". Does that make sense? Any wider is fine too...as you can see on this build, the track is actually wider than necessary, but that just makes it easier to clamp. I hope this helps! Good luck!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench It may be arbitrary but I observed a couple of useful width measurements in play: 1. your guide rails are about the width of inner edge of the base plate to the end of the saw motor, allowing the saw a free run on a busy table and keeping the clamping section clear. 2. the extra clamping width is from the saw blade to the outer edge of the base plate, simplifying your final trim cut. Going to make one this weekend and will use these guidelines, but they seem helpful at the beginning when choosing the width of the first cut and the first guide rail position.
Great idea, Tommy. I may build one. I've been using a straight clamp and circular saw. This looks much better.
Thank you, William!
Get some old long flat piece of steel and you got yourself a guide for a circular saw.
Hi nice project, just getting in to wood work, What is the thickness of the plywood in mm?
No one answered this so I will...1/2 in. = 12.7 mm
Linda Martin thanks for updating me with the information
Sorry for the late reply - thanks Linda for jumping in and helping!
Brilliant! Exactly what I needed!
Well done. Brilliantly simple with nice touches. Appreciate the shared wisdom.
Thank you, JT!
This is one of the more simple and more easy to make track on yt. Great Idea, and It must be really straight. Good video.
Thank you, Gustavo! I'm glad you enjoyed it!
This is awesome! I'm just starting to get into woodworking and haven't yet invested in a table saw. Thanks for walking me through how to create this track with just my circular saw!!
No problem - I’m glad you found it helpful! Good luck with your new hobby...if you’re not careful, it could become a lifelong journey 😉
Love this innovation best. Thank god I waited. They just keep getting better. One thing you didn’t explain was. Size, like how long is it. Also. On your first one you made it was from 3/4” plywood. Is this one the same thickness? I have a gob of 3/4” MDF. Is that sturdy enough? Other than it would weigh a million pounds lol. I have like three of you projects in my plans book waiting to get built. Thanks.
Michael, I'd make it about 60" long, and that'll make sure you can make cross-cuts on regular (48" wide) sheet stock. The first one was 3/4", and this one is 1/2". 3/4" MDF would probably work, but as you mentioned, might be pretty heavy. If the MDF is scrap, there's no harm in trying and seeing how you like it. Let me know how it goes!
I built a saw track after watching this video, except I had some square aluminum tubing which I used for one of the guides. I also had only 1/4" underlayment plywood, which is stronger and smoother than lauan, so it works great, and I get almost full blade depth. I added a second sq. tubing guide for stiffness on the other side, where it wouldn't interfere with the saw motor. Very inspiring to see what you can build without a table saw! I had to do some home repairs, and my track came in SO handy. No more wobbly trim boards, but nice straight edges instead. Thank you!
Awesome! I’m glad it was helpful!
Thanks for the great video! one question, is it possible to do a straight cut at 45 degree with this track?
I was wondering the same thing...
I'm looking at building a micro-camper out of 4 X 8 sheets of plywood using a very limited tool kit, so this looks like a real lifesaver in terms of providing the accuracy I need. Thanks much.
Good luck building the camper!
very good.....I am from Malaysia
Save my pocket Mr.! 👍
You said this was your 3rd track saw. I saw the 1st and then what i guess was the 2nd (with the plexiglass inserts) and now this one with no plexiglass or am I i missing some track builds as i didn't see any plexiglass inserts on this one? Thanks
The Plexiglas was really based on viewer requests for something that maintained 100% zero-clearance. It's good if you're doing "furniture quality" cuts, but for this project, it would have been overkill. I hope this helps!
Just completed the Saw Track. Simple and effective. First cuts made on the MicroShop plans using the Saw Track, all good so far and a great help to keep the lines accurate. I will see how it goes and maybe consider the addition of the Perspex inserts. Thanks from across the pond!
Awesome! Keep me posted on your progress!
I'm a bit tight on space would like a vertical panel saw using your idea say 5 degrees back tilt or more for safety., removable or & fixed stops thinking pin's vertically & horizontally every 100mm or 2, be able to move saw & guide Not the panel.
I'm one for 1mm plus accuracy.
Where did you get the long metal rule? Nice job, will be making this. 👍
Home Depot - thanks, and good luck with the project!
I have home Depot cut all my forebay eight sheet plywood pieces because I can't handle an 8-ft piece of plywood anymore. So most of my cuts are going to be four feet across. How long did you make your guide? How long should I make it to be able to cut across a 4-ft piece of plywood?
When this video first came out I needed and made a copy of the guide. Well, I thought that was what I was doing. In an effort to keep it light (and giving in to my thrifty Scot ancestry), I used 5mm flooring underlayment and ripped a poplar 1x4 for the sides. The poplar pulled inward causing it to pinch the saw slightly. ANY pinch is too much. It's a great tool but I would have saved materials and money to make the sides from plywood as you did to begin with. I think the 5mm plywood floor underlayment would have been fine if I had used full width poplar 1x4s or thicker plywood as you did . The design is terrific. The flaws were of my own making.
Thanks for sharing so much detail about your build! Lots of people talk about making it out of thinner material, and I always caution against it. Everyone seems to think that the weight will be unbearable, but it's really not that heavy, and it is SOLID the way it is built with high quality 1/2" ply. Anyway, thanks again for sharing - let me know if you do a rebuild, and how that goes!
I was thinking of going down from 1/2" to 3/8" (~10 mm) on the base until I checked the weight difference. It's only about 1 lb less so I'm going to stick with the 1/2". Then I won't have to buy different material for the side rails (cheap American : )
I just made one, but didn't worked with my cordless circular saw. Sadly, the machine bump on the side is hindering me to plunge deeper. I guess i'll just buy another circular saw with larger disk.
What model of circular saw do you have? I made one for my DeWalt cordless, and it has just enough clearance to fully lower. That said, you don’t actually need your saw to bottom out in order for it to work. As long as the blade goes through deep enough to cut your material, that’s all you need. Does that make sense? Let me know!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench My circular saw has 40mm maximum clearance, and in that case I can cut 2 pcs of 3/4 but unfortunately the guide on the right side exhaust of my saw is being blocked by the 3/4s i used.
Dumb me, didn't even calculated that before glueing it together. anyway, I'm planning to remove that piece, and change it with a 1/4" plywood instead. hope it works!
after this, i'll be buying your microshop plans!!
Built this today with my 11yo daughter! Unfortunately I failed to make it long enough; after the plunge it only cuts 40”. But it was a fun experience.
thanks for video
I think I need to make one , thank you for the great video
You're welcome, Russ! Good luck with the project!
Great job, thanks for sharing...MERRY CHRISTMAS!!!!!!!!!
Thank you!
Even better than the first one!
Great Video! What is the thinnest plywood would you suggest for the saw track without jeopardizing integrity?
Thank you! I think the sweet spot is around 1/2". As some have mentioned, you could use thinner material for the base (maybe 1/4") and then 1/2" for the rails and probably be okay. I haven't tested it yet though, so if you do, be sure to let us know how it goes!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench I will definitely keep everyone updated with what works for me.
I built the saw track today. It came out great! I have also purchased the micro shop plans. That is my next adventure. Your channel is amazing!
@@travisvinet9156 Did you built with 1/4 or 1/2 or mix of both?
I went with 1/2”. Stronger the better for me
Hello OMW! That's really nice... I bought a long aluminium clamp made for cutting 4'x8' boards, but I find it can be a little clunky to use, you need to push down on the ends if your sheet isn't completely flat before tightening the clamp. The track you built would prevent the blade from moving in any way, which can (will?) happen if you only have one fence. Plus, when you are tired at the end of the day, it keeps the saw absolutely straight without much effort. Before I put up my aluminium guide for sale, am I missing something here? Thanks again for your good video.
Great video and channel. May I ask the thickness of the wood? Thanks mate
Thanks! The plywood is 1/2.
worth it. worth double.
This is exactly what I need. Thanks. Do you have a good trick for cleaning up the squeeze-out? It strikes me that any left over bits would stop the saw's nice smooth run.
I sometimes take a small scrap of plywood (which has a nice square corner) and run it down the joint. The corner of the plywood will scrap away all the squeeze out perfectly. I hope this helps!
Heh Tommy what was the overall length and thickness of the base? Cheers and a brilliant series. Your delivery is fantastic.
This is a genius build! I recently embarked on my first woodworking project with a cheap circular saw and some full boards of plywood. I was so lost on how to start, given that I didn't have any sort of track or even straight edge that'd run the length of a 4x8 sheet, and seemingly no way to build a track without an existing one. The method of using the factory edge and freehanding it is so obvious now you've shown it to me but would never have occurred to me on my own. Thanks so much for the video!
Thank you, Abigail! I'm glad you found it helpful - good luck getting going in your new hobby!
To avoid the freehand cut you could clamp down another board as a guide if you want
Great. In my case, I would use some metal tape across the blade cut to extend the usability of the tool configuration; but congrats
If you put a nonskid material on the bottom, you won't necessarily have to clamp it and 2 cuts for longer boards would work. Non skid shelving or carpet pieces would work I think. I use them for making pieces stationary for sanding.
Thanks for sharing that idea!
You could glue some medium or fine grit sandpaper to the bottom of the track. I would still use clamps though.
Great videos (both the micro shop and this one). I am wondering where you got the yellow square?
Thank you! It was about 5 bucks at Harbor Freight. Actually, one of the better products I've purchased from them. It's nice and square, and it looks like the plastic is fiber-reinforced. I also appreciate that it is oversized. That really goes along way in try to square up larger items. Anyway, I hope this helps!
Im going to make this this weekend!! How thin can i go for the board/plywood? I have a ryobi 5.5 inch circular saw. The motor gets in the way and i loose thread depth on a .75 inch plywood
Nice an updated version! Thanks
Just made a guide but after seeing this I’ll have to do another like this one 😎😎
I saw your other video first - which used a table saw, and I was wishing there was one that didn't need a table saw. Glad you made the video!
I love your videos! They are so easy to follow and I am pretty sure I have all of them saved in my "build" play list...lol
Thanks, Kate! I'm glad you're enjoying them!
Awesome! Why do have that extra little lip of baseboard on both outside edges?
Thanks for recommending this video. Definitely will try it. Going to pick up a new blade for my circular saw today and some more material to start this project 😀
No problem - good luck with the project!
I hope to make this tomorrow! Thanks for the great video!
Thank you, and good luck with the project!
top job!
Thank you!
Love your videos-- how long is the track that you made here? Nevermind, I see you made it at 60". lol
I have to agree with "Wood Works Extreme"! I have to try to make this track. If everything works, I know it will be a well used jig! Keep up with the great videos!
This is the 3rd one of these that I've seen from you about making a saw track (and I've thought every one was brilliant!!!). On the 2nd one, you added some plexiglass where the sight holes are, and that seemed like a brilliant idea to align with the marks on the wood you are cutting. What made you decide not to do that with this version?
I will try to make this track for different lengths. What thickness plywood did you use?
1/2" - good luck with the project!
@@OneMinuteWorkbench Will 1/4 inch suffice to keep the weight of the guide less?
I can't be sure...I think the thinnest I'd prefer to use is 1/2". I hope this helps!
Nice! But I'm more interested in your work bench!
Thank you! Here's a link to the workbench overview: ua-cam.com/video/SKOCpNIV2Is/v-deo.html I hope this helps!
Nice job on the saw track Tommy! Thanks For sharing it with us' and Merry Christmas!🎄🎁💖👌👍😎JP
Thank you, JP!
Your very welcome Tommy! Have a great week! 😎
Built one today, $20.00. thanks
Glad to help!