Did he realized the ball joint is sitting in a notched washer that allows the ball joint to change other settings? I ran into this recently, The tech was new and he didnt know the ball joint turned, thought it only moved in & out, his senior didnt catch either even tho he had installed my 1st set. Ive had these installed on both my cars, my 1st, road noise went away, car even rode better, highly reccomend.
He didn't even touch it actually, he told me they were already maxed out. His supervisor said the same thing, they are maxed out. I got the SPC ARMs used off a 350z that was lowered, so they were already set to that car. I knew right then and there they both didn't know what to do, but I didn't argue because I know I'm coming right back in after installing the SPC rear camber arms. I was hoping to find an answer by going to another Firestone, but I found my answer right here. Thank you, sir! After looking at the instructions from SPC, I'm going to print them out. They show exactly how to adjust caster by turning the ball joint. Camber is supposed to be adjustable from -1.5 to 3.5 of camber. I know I did not install the hub shims, but my car is not lowered aggressively at all with a 2 finger wheel gap. It flagged red on the front left because it was exactly at the max -1.2 which is technically in spec but at the top end. I want that adjusted too when I come back in. I should have plenty of adjustability in these SPC arms to not even be close to the top end of max spec. I'm not even close to dirt nasty low.
Yes the nut has to come off to change the ball joint, I bought both sets new, apparently he didnt look at the directions, I know the senior guy where mine were aligned, I questioned when he told me it needed more adjustment, as Id taken the nut off just to look, I also installed the 2nd cars upper a arms myself, it was very easy to do actually, so they kept the car a few more days, the 2nd is a project & not license yet, so no big deal. Ya I agree, there should be plenty of adjustability.
When you lower the rear , the axels tilt up on the outside , the wheel side , as the wheels go up they turn inward , rather than using the round adjuster , buy the square offset adjusters , to give yourself more toe-out in the rear , it’s about a half of a degree , each side , i wish they made a full degree
You are lucky that Firestone would work on it. I went to 4 of the major alignment shops in my area and none of them would touch my car. It would of been great to get a 'lifetime alignment' deal but I take my car to a speed shop now and pay over $100 every time I need it adjusted.
In regards to your caster issue, I am pretty sure that those upper control arms only have about 1 degree of adjustment for caster. It could be possible that that adjustment is maxed out and a bad part is the cause. I have read that bad compression arm bushings can cause caster to go out of whack. I'm considering getting the same or similar control arms to try and fix my G's caster issue on the OEM setup. Keep us up to date on what you find!
Nick Hoffmann .....thank you.....good looking out. The 350z I got the SPC arms off of was dirty nasty low. I think a new ball joint is $80 and since I got these SPC arms used ,what you are saying makes a lot of sense.
No problem, man. Don't forget to check out the compression rod bushing (mentioned them as compression arms before) too, just in case. Here is a thread I found on one of the Z forums where they talk about that bushing causing caster problems. Doesn't make quite as much sense , since the the caster was fine before your alignment though. my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/499554-diy-spl-compression-rod-bushing-install.html
Hey bro, I know you have a G model but I have a 2007 M35X. I order a size rims all around of 20x10.5 to install on it. Do you think the offset will be a problem to fit for that type ? I’m worry if I have to return them… please hit me back with smthg maybe I can change the order. Nice looking G model you have here.
Hey bro, once again another useful video. Keep em coming! I have a 06 coupe auto (bad knees from car accident so didn't get manual) and want to keep it stock as possible. What must haves do you recommend that I definitely need with the idea of wanting to keep it stock as possible. Mines has 19" rims (stock sport rims) and I was told def. Need to fix camber in front. Anything else? Thanks man...
Hi Chad, I have the same car. My tires wear pretty good in the rears my fronts have the same issue of wearing badly from the inner. I'd am in need of front cam kits. Found another another brand by GodSpeed but dont' know much about it, anyone know if they're good?
Hi love your videos man. I got a eibach pro kit springs on my g35 and i installed rear camber arms because there cheep and also i was eating thru tires.. After installing them and aligning them my rear is still 2.0 - 2.2 camber.. i want them like 1.5ish they WERE at 3.0 so it helps a little..
Thank you! Interesting.......I'm working on the rear install now with my SPC camber arms. Which comes in 2 parts. The toe bolts that go into the rear bucket and then the rear camber arms. I was reading that if you only install one part of the system it won't get into spec. Did you install both parts?
my alignment is a most perfect but the front right is 0.2 off. the car turns a little bit too the right, i was thinking of getting front camber arms to fix it
.2 still isn't that bad. I was off almost a whole 1 degree. Camber arms are expensive so if you are not eating the inside of your tires out prematurely, you may not need it.
my tires wearing evenly, but the last set of rear tires were wearing super fast like 6 months i think it's because they were made in 2014. but this time i going to look at DOT CODE (Department of Transportation tire) so i don't buy an old tire again. i have done research on tire lettering and what it means, i think that would be a good video for you to make!
Not a bad idea, I will add it to the list. A 3-year-old tire was not the problem. I used to do used tires all the time because new ones do not come with a warranty. What you look for is the treadwear rating. The higher the number, the stiffer the tire and the longer it last. The only problem is tires in 285/35/19 are all treadwear ratings are 200 and below, which means soft tire. Now that I found a brand that does 500 tread wear and above and offers a 50,000 warranty which are continental extremecontact dws06. Because of the warranty, I now buy new because the next set will be discounted. Like right now my front tires are close to the treadwear bar of 3/32nds after 2 years and 20,000 miles. I used to get like 10-12k miles out of tires. So to buy another set, I will get a discount because they did not last 50,000 miles. I like that video idea....how to choose the proper tire?
New to the channel, I'm sure you've made a video about this but I had a question about the shifter on my 04 6mt. Now let me start off that I know I need a new slave cylinder. But would that have any affect on the feel of the shifter. Depending on how much I've been driving that day it becomes very difficult to put the car into gear. It feels like I'm pulling a giant weighted lever. Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
Brogan McGuire ....yes, a proper working slave makes shifting smooth as butter. Grinding gears are from worn syncros. My video here on how to change slave.....ua-cam.com/video/jHpRnibzmjo/v-deo.html
Hola my good sir! Love the videos. Question, I love the G35 but I'm looking more into the G37. I found a used 2008 G37 base model 66k miles with Nav package for 12k. What do you think of the car over all and the deal I have came across? Thank you.
Hey, I had just bought an 07 G35 with simular miles. For a little less than what the people want for theirs (12k). I've done a crap ton research with this car. If im not mistaken the 37's just have a longer stoke of the engine making it a 3.7 but overall i believe its the same engine, which is nice! ::I could be wrong about some of this or all of it:: Try talking them down 1g or so and go from there. Otherwise it seems like a good deal. to me that is
MastaChinks ahh sounds good man! The g37 I was looking at had almost more than double the miles going for 9500. So if that one is in great condition which I assume because milage. Then you probably found a needle in the hay stack!
Brian Nelson Seems pretty legit! The only bad thing is a small hole in the left back seat but I already found the rear seats for 200 in great condition through eBay. So not too worried about that. Other then that it looks great! I wish he'd come down just a bit more being that it is a 2008 base model.
Justin is correct. Stay away from fiberglass. The price has come way down since I purchased the Poly Nismo front bumper. I'm seeing it on ebay fo $400. I'm curious on how fitment is from ebay because that is a smoking good deal for POLY. I paid $800 for my Nismo bumper from VIS Racing........www.visracing.com/newcatalog/Infiniti/G35/2003-2008-G35/Front-Bumper-1600/2003-2007-Infiniti-G35-2Dr-Techno-R-Front-Bumper-Urethane.html
have you been to pitstop performance in phx? just curious because i know they do alot of work with nissan/infiniti i test drove a tt g35 coupe they were selling and they have a nice showroom lots of z33/silvias/r33/ and they were working on concept z r35
abel garza.....I'm new to Phoenix, so no I have not. I do not take my car to mechanics because I can fix it all myself. Even though I'm not a professional mechanic. Are they a tuning shop or a mechanic shop? Looking at the website now. If they have a showroom, I will have to swing by and check it out. Thank you for the suggestion.
Motordyne G35 they are an all around shop they do body work turbos exhaust super chargers they don’t tune in House I had called about a tune but they had sent me to concept z if I wanted to have the tune I didn’t really ask them what they were doing to the concept z r35 but I do know they had the motor out so I can only assume boosting.
Did he realized the ball joint is sitting in a notched washer that allows the ball joint to change other settings? I ran into this recently, The tech was new and he didnt know the ball joint turned, thought it only moved in & out, his senior didnt catch either even tho he had installed my 1st set. Ive had these installed on both my cars, my 1st, road noise went away, car even rode better, highly reccomend.
He didn't even touch it actually, he told me they were already maxed out. His supervisor said the same thing, they are maxed out. I got the SPC ARMs used off a 350z that was lowered, so they were already set to that car. I knew right then and there they both didn't know what to do, but I didn't argue because I know I'm coming right back in after installing the SPC rear camber arms. I was hoping to find an answer by going to another Firestone, but I found my answer right here. Thank you, sir!
After looking at the instructions from SPC, I'm going to print them out. They show exactly how to adjust caster by turning the ball joint. Camber is supposed to be adjustable from -1.5 to 3.5 of camber. I know I did not install the hub shims, but my car is not lowered aggressively at all with a 2 finger wheel gap. It flagged red on the front left because it was exactly at the max -1.2 which is technically in spec but at the top end. I want that adjusted too when I come back in. I should have plenty of adjustability in these SPC arms to not even be close to the top end of max spec. I'm not even close to dirt nasty low.
Yes the nut has to come off to change the ball joint, I bought both sets new, apparently he didnt look at the directions, I know the senior guy where mine were aligned, I questioned when he told me it needed more adjustment, as Id taken the nut off just to look, I also installed the 2nd cars upper a arms myself, it was very easy to do actually, so they kept the car a few more days, the 2nd is a project & not license yet, so no big deal. Ya I agree, there should be plenty of adjustability.
I love your g35 coupe videos man the more I watch them the more I dream of getting one, and hopefully asap
Toe is what destroys tires, camber just changes the wear pattern.
Zero out your toe asap
Noel Alvarez you obviously have never done an alignment in your life.
This video is going to help me so much, I have a g35 n one of my tires has terrible tire wear. But it's the only one, so I'm going to a shop soon
"jesus tyler"
When you lower the rear , the axels tilt up on the outside , the wheel side , as the wheels go up they turn inward , rather than using the round adjuster , buy the square offset adjusters , to give yourself more toe-out in the rear , it’s about a half of a degree , each side , i wish they made a full degree
You are lucky that Firestone would work on it. I went to 4 of the major alignment shops in my area and none of them would touch my car. It would of been great to get a 'lifetime alignment' deal but I take my car to a speed shop now and pay over $100 every time I need it adjusted.
is there any way to get alignment to 0.0 instead of being positive or negative or it doesn't matter?
In regards to your caster issue, I am pretty sure that those upper control arms only have about 1 degree of adjustment for caster. It could be possible that that adjustment is maxed out and a bad part is the cause. I have read that bad compression arm bushings can cause caster to go out of whack. I'm considering getting the same or similar control arms to try and fix my G's caster issue on the OEM setup. Keep us up to date on what you find!
Nick Hoffmann .....thank you.....good looking out. The 350z I got the SPC arms off of was dirty nasty low.
I think a new ball joint is $80 and since I got these SPC arms used ,what you are saying makes a lot of sense.
No problem, man. Don't forget to check out the compression rod bushing (mentioned them as compression arms before) too, just in case. Here is a thread I found on one of the Z forums where they talk about that bushing causing caster problems. Doesn't make quite as much sense , since the the caster was fine before your alignment though. my350z.com/forum/brakes-and-suspension-diy/499554-diy-spl-compression-rod-bushing-install.html
Nick Hoffmann .....I replaced the the compression rods not too long ago. I did not do SPL bushings.
What's the difference between these SPC control arms that are $650 and the ones that are under $400?
The $400 ones can only be adjusted by taking them off and reinstalling every adjustment. The $650 ones can be adjusted without removal.
Did you use the shims?
Hey bro, I know you have a G model but I have a 2007 M35X. I order a size rims all around of 20x10.5 to install on it. Do you think the offset will be a problem to fit for that type ?
I’m worry if I have to return them… please hit me back with smthg maybe I can change the order. Nice looking G model you have here.
My front wheel shacks bad do I need tie rods
Hey bro, once again another useful video. Keep em coming! I have a 06 coupe auto (bad knees from car accident so didn't get manual) and want to keep it stock as possible. What must haves do you recommend that I definitely need with the idea of wanting to keep it stock as possible. Mines has 19" rims (stock sport rims) and I was told def. Need to fix camber in front. Anything else? Thanks man...
Hi Chad, I have the same car. My tires wear pretty good in the rears my fronts have the same issue of wearing badly from the inner. I'd am in need of front cam kits. Found another another brand by GodSpeed but dont' know much about it, anyone know if they're good?
Hi love your videos man. I got a eibach pro kit springs on my g35 and i installed rear camber arms because there cheep and also i was eating thru tires.. After installing them and aligning them my rear is still 2.0 - 2.2 camber.. i want them like 1.5ish they WERE at 3.0 so it helps a little..
Thank you! Interesting.......I'm working on the rear install now with my SPC camber arms. Which comes in 2 parts. The toe bolts that go into the rear bucket and then the rear camber arms. I was reading that if you only install one part of the system it won't get into spec. Did you install both parts?
Motordyne G35 yes I installed both parts.. We did somehow end up with an extra bolt.. "extra" but the alignment guys said both arms looked fine.
Hey bro dose the G37s comes with justable chamber arm
my alignment is a most perfect but the front right is 0.2 off. the car turns a little bit too the right, i was thinking of getting front camber arms to fix it
Are you on coilovers?
eibach pro kit
.2 still isn't that bad. I was off almost a whole 1 degree. Camber arms are expensive so if you are not eating the inside of your tires out prematurely, you may not need it.
my tires wearing evenly, but the last set of rear tires were wearing super fast like 6 months i think it's because they were made in 2014. but this time i going to look at DOT CODE (Department of Transportation tire) so i don't buy an old tire again. i have done research on tire lettering and what it means, i think that would be a good video for you to make!
Not a bad idea, I will add it to the list. A 3-year-old tire was not the problem. I used to do used tires all the time because new ones do not come with a warranty. What you look for is the treadwear rating. The higher the number, the stiffer the tire and the longer it last.
The only problem is tires in 285/35/19 are all treadwear ratings are 200 and below, which means soft tire. Now that I found a brand that does 500 tread wear and above and offers a 50,000 warranty which are continental extremecontact dws06. Because of the warranty, I now buy new because the next set will be discounted. Like right now my front tires are close to the treadwear bar of 3/32nds after 2 years and 20,000 miles. I used to get like 10-12k miles out of tires. So to buy another set, I will get a discount because they did not last 50,000 miles.
I like that video idea....how to choose the proper tire?
New to the channel, I'm sure you've made a video about this but I had a question about the shifter on my 04 6mt. Now let me start off that I know I need a new slave cylinder. But would that have any affect on the feel of the shifter. Depending on how much I've been driving that day it becomes very difficult to put the car into gear. It feels like I'm pulling a giant weighted lever. Any input would be appreciated, thanks.
Brogan McGuire ....yes, a proper working slave makes shifting smooth as butter. Grinding gears are from worn syncros. My video here on how to change slave.....ua-cam.com/video/jHpRnibzmjo/v-deo.html
I'm really on the edge about buying a g35 coupe, anything that might make me lean towards or against it?
What are your other choices you want instead of the G35?
Not anything specific, just maybe looking towards a newer car, maybe faster
Go test drive a g35 or g37, then you will know. Here are my 11 reasons why should buy a G35.......ua-cam.com/video/wSR988HP1jE/v-deo.html
Triple Steak Gaming me too I think I'll get one pretty soon if I can find a good one at a fair price
Toasted Nuts nice
Are you in AzVq?
Hola my good sir! Love the videos. Question, I love the G35 but I'm looking more into the G37. I found a used 2008 G37 base model 66k miles with Nav package for 12k. What do you think of the car over all and the deal I have came across? Thank you.
Hey, I had just bought an 07 G35 with simular miles. For a little less than what the people want for theirs (12k). I've done a crap ton research with this car. If im not mistaken the 37's just have a longer stoke of the engine making it a 3.7 but overall i believe its the same engine, which is nice! ::I could be wrong about some of this or all of it::
Try talking them down 1g or so and go from there. Otherwise it seems like a good deal. to me that is
Brian Nelson Thanks man, I appreciate it! They have it listed at 13k and will come down to 12k.
MastaChinks ahh sounds good man! The g37 I was looking at had almost more than double the miles going for 9500. So if that one is in great condition which I assume because milage. Then you probably found a needle in the hay stack!
I’ve had my 2011 g37 for a few months now and I love it
I got it with 63k on it for 12k love the car absolutely love it
Brian Nelson Seems pretty legit! The only bad thing is a small hole in the left back seat but I already found the rear seats for 200 in great condition through eBay. So not too worried about that. Other then that it looks great! I wish he'd come down just a bit more being that it is a 2008 base model.
Hey where did you buy that front bumper?
Justin is correct. Stay away from fiberglass. The price has come way down since I purchased the Poly Nismo front bumper. I'm seeing it on ebay fo $400. I'm curious on how fitment is from ebay because that is a smoking good deal for POLY. I paid $800 for my Nismo bumper from VIS Racing........www.visracing.com/newcatalog/Infiniti/G35/2003-2008-G35/Front-Bumper-1600/2003-2007-Infiniti-G35-2Dr-Techno-R-Front-Bumper-Urethane.html
have you been to pitstop performance in phx? just curious because i know they do alot of work with nissan/infiniti i test drove a tt g35 coupe they were selling and they have a nice showroom lots of z33/silvias/r33/ and they were working on concept z r35
abel garza.....I'm new to Phoenix, so no I have not. I do not take my car to mechanics because I can fix it all myself. Even though I'm not a professional mechanic. Are they a tuning shop or a mechanic shop?
Looking at the website now. If they have a showroom, I will have to swing by and check it out. Thank you for the suggestion.
Motordyne G35 they are an all around shop they do body work turbos exhaust super chargers they don’t tune in House I had called about a tune but they had sent me to concept z if I wanted to have the tune I didn’t really ask them what they were doing to the concept z r35 but I do know they had the motor out so I can only assume boosting.
Where can I purchase the 75mm tb
oboys1502 it's a bit pricey. www.nwpengineering.com/Phenolic_Spacers.html#BBTB
i stall my car reversing sometimes