I bought these tires for it Pro-Line Racing Badlands MX28 2.8 MTD Raid Black 6x30 F/R PRO1012510 RC Tire The chassis needed to be modified but you have way more control no speed wobble... It does pop wheelies so there's still some work needing to be done to drop the front and raise the back... But it's a night and day difference with control.
The stock diffs are a bit stiff but get looser quick. the Senton dont really need stronger diffs as the wheels are small and light. Sealing the power module opening is a must! i use some blue painters tape and it stays clean. you'll destory the spur & motor quick if you dont do that
I did that to my big rock 3s a while ago, keep some shims on hand! I run through maybe 5-10 batteries per week, and I've only had to add 1 shim to the rear diff over the last few months. I don't go super hard bashing, skatepark once a week, but a ton of beach running. And look at the mod to cut a slot below the spur gear in the chassis, let's everything fall right out. I've been on the same metal HR spur gear since I got the truck last year.
Those are actually better than the 4s diffs. The stock 4s diffs are of weaker powdered metal. Youre not supposed to pop the driveshaft joints, you just need a really long hex driver to get into it!
When removing the axles from the diff, youre supposed to have a long 2mm driver and go into the axle shaft to unscrew the screw. No need to take apart the u joint.
Haha sometimes it is good to watch UA-cam you could have looked up the easy way to get the drive shafts off the hubs haha, the cheap hex drives are long and can fit through the whole drive shaft to get to that screw. If you want them to be extra strong get the HR yoks keeps the input and ring gear from separating
Better way in stead of tapping up the motor mount. Drill a hole in your chassis to let sand and gunk out. Works way better then trying to tape off that motor gap
Hi! I found this very helpful because I’m about to install the same product into my granite. I’m just hesitant about to shim the diffs, how can I know if it’s necessary and how many shims should I add? Thank you again for posting this video, I’m subscribing now!
My senton was a bit tight up front, seems to be getting smoother after a few packs though. I ve got a major issue trying to remove the half shafts, the screws are lock tited overly well and i can't remove them.
Put a hot soldering iron tip on it for a moment or two to heat the thread lock up and that should help release the grub screw on the half shalt be careful not to hit the plastic tho
@@gonzodetroitify I'll keep this in mind if/when the time comes. Actually it was interesting to see exo was able to remove the universals as i may need to do that to get the iron in there without melting the plastic. Cheers!
Seems like a good way to burn thru a bunch of money for nothing. The odds of stripping the original diff is pretty hard unless you abuse the poor things. All this does it send the shock up the drive train to the spur and drive axle which now both have to be replaced with metal
@@kenmastersmasterI have run 6s through my granite on stock diffs for 18 months. Just put it back to 3s for my son. Now I run 6s on my kraton 4s V1. Still on stock diffs. No problems. Don’t land full throttle. And don’t goose it non stop. It’s alright.
If you have a longer tool tip, your meant to go down the center of that half shaft to access those screws.
To fix the problem with the dirt in the spur I just cut out a hole in the chassis under the spur gear and never had that problem again
Yup u don't have to take the shaft apart it won't work like it does after u take it apart like that I did that before lol
2mn down in the middle of the shaft lol
I bought these tires for it
Pro-Line Racing Badlands MX28 2.8 MTD Raid Black 6x30 F/R PRO1012510 RC Tire
The chassis needed to be modified but you have way more control no speed wobble...
It does pop wheelies so there's still some work needing to be done to drop the front and raise the back...
But it's a night and day difference with control.
The stock diffs are a bit stiff but get looser quick. the Senton dont really need stronger diffs as the wheels are small and light. Sealing the power module opening is a must! i use some blue painters tape and it stays clean. you'll destory the spur & motor quick if you dont do that
Any Rc that runs more than 2s will fully benefit from all steel drivetrain. Unless you like doing diff work after every other pack
@@Corhndog I have this car for 3 years now, run only 3s, still stock plastic driveshafts, replaced rear diff (crown gear) twice. It’s fine
I’ve been in the game long enough to no you’re lying or you drive like a grandma. Pry both honestly.
Nah bro my senton has been 3s put at least 30 or 40 packs through it and no issues, other than the center axel and servo. I have no complaints
@@Corhndog maybe that’s the issue, you’ve been too long in the business.. try modern cars and not traxxas
I did that to my big rock 3s a while ago, keep some shims on hand! I run through maybe 5-10 batteries per week, and I've only had to add 1 shim to the rear diff over the last few months. I don't go super hard bashing, skatepark once a week, but a ton of beach running. And look at the mod to cut a slot below the spur gear in the chassis, let's everything fall right out. I've been on the same metal HR spur gear since I got the truck last year.
Hi! I just ordered this product for my granite, I’m new to hobby so I don’t know when to shim the diffs. How can you tell? Thank you very much!
Those are actually better than the 4s diffs. The stock 4s diffs are of weaker powdered metal. Youre not supposed to pop the driveshaft joints, you just need a really long hex driver to get into it!
When removing the axles from the diff, youre supposed to have a long 2mm driver and go into the axle shaft to unscrew the screw. No need to take apart the u joint.
Yes there's a tool for popping out and putting in drive shafts. They come with the Traxxas kits.
Haha sometimes it is good to watch UA-cam you could have looked up the easy way to get the drive shafts off the hubs haha, the cheap hex drives are long and can fit through the whole drive shaft to get to that screw. If you want them to be extra strong get the HR yoks keeps the input and ring gear from separating
I've never had issues with the stock plastic diffs, even running 4s and bashing it super hard!
I didn’t either but I want it to be as reliable as possible plus I needed to open it up and fix the drag issue
Wait so you can just buy a 4s and use it? I thought it was only compatible with 2-3s
@@dylanbrookbank9669 swapped out the ESC.
Better way in stead of tapping up the motor mount. Drill a hole in your chassis to let sand and gunk out. Works way better then trying to tape off that motor gap
The wall is going to look good when you get it all done
Need to drill a hole in the chassis under the transmission
Hi bud yes you upgrading it at Last I've upgraded mine 2 months ago running on 4s lipo battery very much punch and faster 😀😄
I'm getting the Senton 4x4 V3 3S for my Birthday, what are some upgrades that I should get for this Truck?
Hi! I found this very helpful because I’m about to install the same product into my granite. I’m just hesitant about to shim the diffs, how can I know if it’s necessary and how many shims should I add? Thank you again for posting this video, I’m subscribing now!
Nice
Great Video
cut a hole in the chassis under the spur and you wont have a problem with the transmission packing up dirt
You go straight thru the shaft ,not through the joint bud👍🏻😜
😁👍
To do those screws you go threw the shaft. Don’t have to take them apart
My senton was a bit tight up front, seems to be getting smoother after a few packs though. I ve got a major issue trying to remove the half shafts, the screws are lock tited overly well and i can't remove them.
Put a hot soldering iron tip on it for a moment or two to heat the thread lock up and that should help release the grub screw on the half shalt be careful not to hit the plastic tho
@@gonzodetroitify I'll keep this in mind if/when the time comes. Actually it was interesting to see exo was able to remove the universals as i may need to do that to get the iron in there without melting the plastic. Cheers!
It sounds terrible though, is that really normal for these trucks I’m new to the hobby but that grind Jeeze.
in stock form they are usually quieter
Heli direct has a $42 plier that works. Will NOT let me post a link. FINALLY!
ONE does pay for quality
www.helidirect.com/products/lynx-cnc-ball-link-pliers-5-to-5-5mm
Really long hex driver
You need a metal spur gear or it will strip against the metal
yeah I did put a 4s metal one in
I was thinking about getting it. I find them on ehh Bay for 40 each
Those are currently discontinued any suggestions on an alternative?
the diffs or the whole truck?
@@ExocagedRC diffs
I see you love my products
Go for metal spur gear OK better 👌👍
Why did you get metal diffs if you didn't strip the originals? Since you're not beating on it makes no sense
Why not? I almost always upgrade things before they break
Seems like a good way to burn thru a bunch of money for nothing. The odds of stripping the original diff is pretty hard unless you abuse the poor things. All this does it send the shock up the drive train to the spur and drive axle which now both have to be replaced with metal
@@kenmastersmasterI have run 6s through my granite on stock diffs for 18 months. Just put it back to 3s for my son. Now I run 6s on my kraton 4s V1. Still on stock diffs. No problems. Don’t land full throttle. And don’t goose it non stop. It’s alright.
Some of us enjoy tinkering with our cars we get enjoyment from upgrades whether it’s necessary or not that’s a irrelevant to us
Just get a thin 2mm hex long screw 🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️🤦🏻♂️
this is the correct way to fix the diff ! ua-cam.com/video/faKrWfy4yuY/v-deo.html