Don't Clip Scared! -
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
- Clipping takes time. If you can't hang on long enough, you need another plan. What options are there? You can rush, you can climb on and skip, but it's safer to climb back to a rest.
If the clipping stance is strenuous you can climb, clip and retreat. If you're lucky, you'll now be able to reach the lower carbiner of the quickdraw and clip in safety. If not climb up, clip the rope, and climb on, or come down again for another rest! Take all the rests you need, and if you have to take, take
This is a fun 10a route called Gondolier Arete. Another fun day climbing in Clear Creek Canyon on a super hot day!
This is so important. I've been learning to lead trad, and my usual way is to just get up there as fast as I can, before the Elvis legs set in. Recently a friend has been helping me build confidence by showing that I can downclimb too, and that downclimbing a bit to have a rest, or just adjust my stance, calms me and allows me to place gear more sensibly and efficiently. It's an absolute game-changer.
Down climbing is a seriously underrated skill. It's incredibly important to be able to not get pumped out, especially when placing gear. It's a great way to learn to use your feet too!
With the pro done for you ie: bolt ladder. Push it. Always try to rest before the crux. Then climb through the crux instead of timidly yo-yoing. Yo-Yo brings on burn out and failure. Push the crux and you will succeed sooner than later. Fear of falling just saps you. The bolts are your friends to push your limits. And hopefully with new found confidence you can climb traditionally placing your own pro. Trad is way more intense but way more rewarding.
Well, that's one approach, and it might be appropriate sometimes, but I think there's more to consider rather than going for it every time.
Personally, I always enjoy being able to on-sight flash (climb the route successfully without any falls or hangs on your very first attempt with no additional beta). Up to a certain grade like this one, I generally can, but occasionally the crux feels a little hard or the ledge below the crux looks a little close, so going up having a feel and coming back down to rest, is definitely the style I prefer. Either to prevent injury or to blow my flash on a move I could get with a little more time to think.
If I'll likely fall because either the grade or style is going to be hard for me, and if the fall is clean and safe (far enough from the ground and any dangerous ledges), then I'm more likely to crash into the crux as hard and fast as I can and just maybe I'll make it through. That was entirely my approach later the same day, on a project I'm working on a couple of climbs to the left.
I don't personally feel moving up to a crux and moving down again reduces my ability to eventually get it. If anything, quite the opposite. I feel more confident when the crux isn't unknown and then I'm more likely to get my on-sight flash. I think there are as many different climbing styles as there are climbers.
I think it's also a great opportunity to practice the trad mindset even on sport routes, if that is your goal. I personally love trad and have been leading on gear since the early '90s. Down climbing is an essential skill, particularly for trad but not exclusively, and I don't think it's practiced often enough. My primary goal for any day climbing is to leave the crag uninjured. If hanging or down climbing or stick clipping is the thing that's going to make that happen I have zero problem doing whatever it takes to stay safe.
I appreciate you watching the video and commenting and look forward to hearing your thoughts on future videos.