Відео

Well, that's one approach, and it might be appropriate sometimes, but I think there's more to consider rather than going for it every time. Personally, I always enjoy being able to on-sight flash (climb the route successfully without any falls or hangs on your very first attempt with no additional beta). Up to a certain grade like this one, I generally can, but occasionally the crux feels a little hard or the ledge below the crux looks a little close, so going up having a feel and coming back down to rest, is definitely the style I prefer. Either to prevent injury or to blow my flash on a move I could get with a little more time to think. If I'll likely fall because either the grade or style is going to be hard for me, and if the fall is clean and safe (far enough from the ground and any dangerous ledges), then I'm more likely to crash into the crux as hard and fast as I can and just maybe I'll make it through. That was entirely my approach later the same day, on a project I'm working on a couple of climbs to the left. I don't personally feel moving up to a crux and moving down again reduces my ability to eventually get it. If anything, quite the opposite. I feel more confident when the crux isn't unknown and then I'm more likely to get my on-sight flash. I think there are as many different climbing styles as there are climbers. I think it's also a great opportunity to practice the trad mindset even on sport routes, if that is your goal. I personally love trad and have been leading on gear since the early '90s. Down climbing is an essential skill, particularly for trad but not exclusively, and I don't think it's practiced often enough. My primary goal for any day climbing is to leave the crag uninjured. If hanging or down climbing or stick clipping is the thing that's going to make that happen I have zero problem doing whatever it takes to stay safe. I appreciate you watching the video and commenting and look forward to hearing your thoughts on future videos.

Down climbing is a seriously underrated skill. It's incredibly important to be able to not get pumped out, especially when placing gear. It's a great way to learn to use your feet too!

hah, yes, still my go to as it self feeds. What have you moved on to? (BTW check out E-Bay prices, they sometimes go for $500-$1000!!)

I'm still working out the best way to film climbing myself so i don't think I have much to offer. I use an insta360 on a selfie in a back pack, and a DJI osmo action 3 on my helmet. I also have a drone, but only shoot with it when I'm in a place I can fly legally. I edit with Davinci Resolve. I'm only shooting climbs I feel pretty comfortable on and not on any projects yet.. I feel I have a long way to go to get the videos how I want, and to climb thinking more about the shots, but I have learned a ton watching tutorials and practicing. There's really no other way. Practice, learn, repeat. That's my plan! 🙂

I do! Hope you do too! 😁

Thanks for the kind comment. The view is possible thanks to a 360 camera on a selfie stick, sticking out of my backpack. You can see it sometimes in some of my other videos when I position a camera to capture the climb from the ground. It's a bit shaky, but gives an interesting perspective. I'll post more videos soon. I didn't record my climbing this past couple of weekends because one was hard and the other I was teaching a newbie friend, so it didn't seem appropriate for either but I hope to be back at it again soon. I also plan to post some skills videos and they require a lot less time commitment to prepare, so please do keep your eye out for those. I really appreciate that you watched and thanks for commenting!

I had an easy ground anchor option by slinging the tree to climbers right of the base of the climb. It was a little further than I'd like, introducing more rope stretch to the initial moves, but was adequate. You can see the rope running to it for a second at 1:40 There were also some large boulders I could have slung, but the tree was nice and quick to set up.

Thanks! I appreciate the kind comment. And those hexes are so handy! Mine are the rockcentrics. I've always had a set on my rack and love to place them. When they go in right, they feel so solid!

So that's why the knots 😁I've been climbing for over 30 years now but I never seen that device (European climber)

@@YnseSchaap From the 80's by Rock Exotica. They also made the Silent Partner.

@@robertpearson9137 😁

@@YnseSchaap It was discontinued as it can fail in certain fall types of falls so not very common to see it. It self feeds though, so I prefer it over a gri-gri. Although I live in Colorado now, I'm originally a UK climber. I started in SE England and Wales. Much prefer the weather here, lol.

@@versusgravity 😁I climb a lot in Germany, in fact I'm waiting for good weather to have a go again. There's one route in the area I haven't done yet, just the one (French grade 7/8)

Same here 😁

​ @FreedyMercuryForEver @YnseSchaap Looks like my reply entered as a comment but I hope I explained the process. I might make a video about the device I use when I have time. They stopped making it so it'll be for the curious only, but it's an interesting piece of gear for sure. Glad you liked the video and thanks for commenting! :)

@@versusgravity I do this sometimes but I use a grigri (bit more work) but I leave the rope on the ground and rappel down to do the next pitch (ascender to get back up)

If the weight difference is less than 40 then the catch can be hard, but our weight difference is almost double that. The Ohm is designed to protect us both in this situation. Sofia is one of my regular climbing partners, and has held many whips!

@@versusgravity I used an ohm when me (70kg) was belayed by my daughter (40kg) using a tick rope (9.9mm mamutt) and the catch when lead falling were way to harsh. In this case it's better to cross the first quickdraw with the one of the adjacent route. Make your test with small falls such as too be confident when sending projects. Btw, video was nice ! Cheers,

Thanks! I hope to post many more in the coming months. The next one, a trad lead solo, is scheduled for tomorrow morning. The regular bowline went out of fashion but was my standard tie-in when I started climbing in the early 90s. The rewoven figure 8 replaced it and is now the standard tie-in knot. The fig 8 is self-tightening, while the bowline isn't. I'm not sure if the retraced bowline would be considered self-tightening, but my primary reason to not use it would be because it is unfamiliar to most climbers. In 30+ years of climbing in the UK, Spain, Thailand, Washington State, and Colorado, I've never heard of anyone using it (not saying it isn't used, just that it isn't common in the circles I've moved in). The issue that would cause for me is familiarity during safety checks. As someone who climbs in many social groups, often with new partners, and beginner or novice climbers, I'll continue to use the knot that everyone climbing in my home state of Colorado will recognize, and more importantly, see any errors. I still miss the bowline. It was so easy to untie after a whip!

So far they've been pretty cool about it. I only film when the gym is quiet too, I think that helps. I honestly like gyms that are strict about safety stuff. I hope no one else does anything stupid and I can keep making content like this.

Good to hear! I hope I get to play with one to compare. The version one can certainly be finicky if the belayer isn't standing within the right position, which isn't always possible outside. Glad you liked the video. I'm off to Shelf Rd again this weekend so hope to have more content to post next week. 🙂

That's so awesome! Congratulations. It was a pleasure to chat with you too :) Good luck with all your future dancing!

Just a selfie sick sticking out of my backpack. I think it gives a great perspective.

Next one is in Spain, August 2026. I hope to be there! 🙂

I watched the 2017 eclipse from the Tetons in Wyoming, so wanted a different experience this time. I recommend both. 🙂

I'm using the insta360 One X2. I'm still experimenting with the best way to position it to shoot. This time I extended the stick a little further put and it in the internal back pocket. Then stuffed a jacket in the pocket to push it back as far as it would go and to keep it stable. If you look at the shadow, you can kind of see the setup. I'm also using a dive case which kind of messes with the optical quality, particularly along the stitch lines, but until I can find a way that doesn't result in the camera ever hitting the wall then I'll keep the dive case on. Easier climbs like this 5.8 tend to have more ledges and as you lean forward pulling onto a ledge, the camera rocks forward past your head hitting the wall. So I think moving on to trying harder climbs should help. Glad you enjoyed it, hopefully I'll be posting a lot more content like this.

Thanks, I appreciate it! :)

Nice! I miss the snow, but love the summer!