I love that you show your "failed" shots. Its pretty discouraging to watch people hitting target each and every time, and it feels good to see a trained individual such as yourself still having "bad shots".
Newby, been shooting for only 2 weeks. Your videos are great with clear, easy to understand explanations, learnt somuch from them, thank you very much!
Same here , got a 34 pound Cartel S1 recurve 2 weeks ago and am now getting 6in groupings at 30ft , 8-9in at 80ft without a sight , no local archery club so NUSensei is my only source of info atm. Thank you for yer vids sir they are a lifeline :)
If you're watching this, consider watching the ads, in full, along with it, if it's the only financial thanks you're giving NUSensei. Thanks for the refresher video NUSensei! I'm a relatively established instinctive shooter, but I'm returning for a second novice go at Olympic (and aiming with any real sight at all). It may never be my forte, but I couldn't rest until I was capable.
NU sensai s message has 2 most important keys 1. follow the arrow 6:43 2. if you are not shooting well then it does not matter where you aim 10:39 Thank you very much. Very helpfull for me!!
I've just fitted a proper target sight to my compound bow and this gave me exactly the information I was looking for - plus some other salient points I hadn't yet thought about, so many thanks Nusensei.😊👍🏻🙏🏻
Great, concise video. I am a beginner, just got my gear. I watched many of your videos to know what gear to buy and to even understand what the different parts are called (and if they are truly necessary or optional). Even my sight came with zero instructions, so it was great help to watch this to know where to mount it and then how to use it. Thank you for your hard work putting these videos up. I appreciate them
I've been shooting traditional barebow for 6 months or so, and I've just picked up a sight to fit to one of my bows. Thanks for making such a comprehensive video with everything I need to know to get it fitted, adjusted and set up all in one clear video - as always, great work! Thanks!
Dude, you are awesome. I just purchased my first takedown recurve bow and accessories and I wouldnt have felt confident to do so without your videos. Unfortunately I did not order a sight, but I think I will now after seeing this. Your videos are very articulate with enough details without rambling on one point too long. Thank you for taking the time to do this. You should really monetize your account. Most videos arent worth waiting through ads, but yours are and you should be compensated for them.
Great vid, thankyou. I have a head scratcher for experienced archers or better yet any coaches out there: I'm left handed, left eye dominant. When I started shooting I just picked up a cheap fibreglass bow (now shooting a flatbow, looking to move into recurve) the basic instructions that came with the bow showed a right handed archer & the tab that came with the kit was a right handed one. Being totally green & not having a sight on it, I didn't appreciate the importance handedness & eye dominance. So I learned to shoot right handed now a few years down the line & getting serious about archery, and as mentioned making the leap into recurve (driving down to Merlin Archery wednesday to pick one up! whoop whoop); I'm unsure whether to stick with what I know or to be clumsy again & make the switch to left handed gear? Shooting my flatbow I have to close my left eye to sight down the string & arrow tip, I've been wondering how will this affect the use of a sight? Don't recurve coaches insist that you shoot with both eyes open? To complicate matters further my right eye is lazy (amblyopia) & opticians I've seen have remarked that my eyes work independently of one another (no, I don't use them like a chameleon lol) when gauging distance. I said to the optician well how come I'm not knocking things over & missing things I grab for? She said my brain has developed compensation methods over the years to gauge distance. Now obviously I'm going to ask the guys/gals at merlin for their input on the matter but I'm keen to get as many opinions as I can, so would be really really grateful for anyone else's opinion on it! Many thanks!
This is the best / simplest explanation of using a recurve sight I've seen. Love your videos and they have helped so much in my early/newbie stages of getting to grips with a recurve bow.
Well done for giving me common sense instructions on the sight block. I have an Avalon Tec one and had my sight block about 3/4 towards to firing end of the riser. I never thought of the fact the further out the sight block is, the smaller the adjustments become. I'll test this in my archery session tonight at the club. Thanks!
This is great. Just started and very helpful for adjusting my sight. I never knew/been told that the sight is just a reference, I spend most of the shot trying to get the sight over the gold etc then wonder why the arrow goes somewhere else :)
thanks Sensei, i want more consistency at longer ranges i am trying a sight for the first time and wanted to know how to use one. when i did a search on recurve sights guess what? you popped up. every time i want to learn something about archery you are the man to watch. easy instructions and tips to follow.
9:50 air is warmer so air rises, so arrow goes further. Updraft on the ground is infinitesimal. Arrow goes further in warmer air because the air is less dense, hence less resistance. Otherwise another great job, thanks.
Great Video as always. I have watched and re-referenced many of them since i have been coaching and found them very helpful. One additional valuable point which you could add on this vid, is why you might need to bring the sight closer to the riser - when aiming at more distant targets and you have run out of downward adjustment. Thanks, Rick
I was waiting for this video. I am a beginner and so is my brother. We were shooting last week and I put my very basic sight onto the bow and it was far to close to the arrow. He took one shot and the sight broke. It was just a very basic plastic sight but it is in the bin now. lol
Excellent video... I have a question about that additional viewfinder you put on the "Shibuya" viewfinder (the one with no magnification)... could you give more information about it... pin size and how it influences the aim? ?. Brand ("titan"???) ..where can I buy it? Thanks for your attention.
I honestly just use a sight to somewhat line up my left/right and use an instinctive esque judgment for distance. I am a beginner and this may not be orthodox, but it's kinda worked so far.
I just picked up a SF Velocity Pro the other day and I'm trying to get into the swing of adjusting it. At home while I practice using it, I'm having trouble figuring out the left/right adjustments. I see you making an adjustment at 8:51 to chase the arrow to the right, but it's hard to tell in what direction you are turning the tuning knob. Since you have your bow on your stand, and laying horizontal, are you turning it towards the lower end of the bow, effectively to the right? As in, if you were to make the adjustment while standing - Downward turn is right, and upward is left? I'm not sure if I notice a visual change in the sight when I turn the knob. My sight didn't come with any instructions so I'm unsure if I'm actually making changes or if I'm doing something wrong. I'm aware of issues with form and consistency so I only try to make adjustments once I've made a decent grouping.
6:29 Where should you place your eye? Outside the string(left) or between the string(right) and the bow? Or whatever, as long as we always do the same? Trad by google
4:50 - You talked briefly about where to line up the string in relation to the sight housing or riser. Is it wrong of me to (right handed shooter) line the string up with the left side of the sight housing? It is what came naturally to me but I can't seem to find anyone saying to line it up on the left side of the sight.
Quandary? I have dropped my sight to nearly the dead bottom of elevation at ten yards. I haven't tried different anchor points but I assume that is probably the only way to get some of that elevation back? It is a Sureloc sight and I was shooting 3 under at the time. I have a pretty massive aperture on it at the moment I suppose it could be part of the problem as well? I just set it up tonight and my groups shrank from basketball at 10 yards to a tangerine at 20 (though about a foot and a half low) by adding a sight, HUGE fan.
Love the videos, out of date but worth mentioning the glass on the titan sight is back to front on your vid. The anti glare coating should be on the outside 🤫👍
Please a little help on how to aim... which side of the string should we aim from...? I aim from the right side of the string between the string and raiser and if from the left side of the string, as you have shown in this video, how to do it while keeping the string in centre of the raiser...???
I have got a question for you The bow sight is mounted at a height above the arrow and if the bow sight is parallel to the arrow when you are sighting the target you are viewing the target at a height above the arrow right Then how the arrow will hit the target if the arrow is not pointing to the target and only the sight does ? The only way it is possible if the line of sight and the arrow Head converges at the target ?it does somehow and I want to know how any help would be benefial hope you can help
New to archery...when I started shooting, the instructor(he's so intimidating and Im not good with people) said I have to point the sight at the yellow circle to actually hit the yellow circle and it goes down outside the the target paper when I released the arrow...it happens so often that I ignore the sight and focus on what you've teach on the beginners video and I hit the yellow circle...haha...I also feel uncomfortable using sight
Hi, First Thanks for the information about archery. All video's are great and helpful. I was wondering where did you buy you glass aperture, please. thanks and all the best.
Nusensei I want to ask if my arrows in different places, what will be the problem? Am using 68" 26lbn recurve bow, i need your advice to buy arrows ( length, spine, material, brand)? Thanks for your support.
why do you have to adjust the left/right alignment of the sight for different distances ? if the bow and arrows are correctly tuned to each other wouldn't the arrows fly straight down the line without the need for lateral adjustment ?
Correct, normally you wouldn't have to adjust horizontal if everything is in tune. That said, sometimes conditions differ enough on the day that your patterns are consistently off, necessitating windage adjustment. In a competition setting, it is important to adjust to what is happening rather than what should be happening.
+NUSensei In your video you try to explain "walk back tuning", but I think you're confused about what walk back tuning is. Walk back tuning is used to get the correct center shot, not sight settings. You aim at a spot at the top of the target/bale, shoot 3 arrows that group, then walk back 10-meters and do the same thing without adjusting your site. You continue doing this until your groups are at the bottom of the target/bale. Ideally, your groups will follow a straight vertical line down. If arrows group to the right (for a right handed archer), your centershot(plunger) is too far in and must be moved out. If the groups go to the left of center, move plunger in. You have a lot of great info in your videos, but please make sure you're not confusing terms for beginning archers. It's hard enough for beginners to achieve good form, let's not make it harder on them by confusing advice. Cheers
Hi Nu Sensei, am a beginner at 51 and have watched almost all of your videos (except product reviews) on archery. They're awesome and most helpful for me. Thank you so much. I have a question. I have slight astigmatism (cyclindrical error) in my shooting eye (right eye) and wear bifocals including a correction for astigmatism.However, I dont use my glasses while am shooting as am uncomfortable wearing it then. Any suggestions on how one can deal with this challenge while aiming?
NUSensei i need a help.When i aim with the arrow i see that its "touching" the center of a target.But when i fire it the arro flyies like way higher can you help me?
See this video: ua-cam.com/video/-vH_lit1sj8/v-deo.html Basically, the arrow is angled upwards when you anchor, so pointing the arrow straight at the centre means you are way too high. The arrow should be at the bottom of the target, not the middle. If you feel that your point of aim is too low or too high, then lower or raise your reference point accordingly.
Most of the time. This will make it easier for the brain to acquire the right sight picture, so you can confidently execute the shot. You could sight the pin elsewhere, and sometimes you will have to (such as when you are aiming off due to wind), but it is far easier to centre the sight ring over the bullseye consistently.
I align the string with the sight and the target. Because I draw my hand not into the mouth corner but under my jaw bone. So shouldn't adjust the sight laterally when I change shooting distance..
I’m a target compound archer. I use a scope with a fibre and zoom lens. I use a peep sight. But I’m still here watching this, just for the entertainment value
The short answer is yes. Air temperature will often affect the flight of the arrow over long distance, especially if conditions fluctuate between warm and cool.
May ask some question my sight are way too low for me (3 clicks a way from the bottom ) I have an accurate shot but when I see most of the archers are in the middle or almost on top. Do I have to adjust my nock point down a little to compensate for the sight? or Just let it be as long as I am consistent at my shot?
@@NUSensei my sight and my arrow only have 1 inch gap is it normal? I am shooting at my backyard with 20 meters distance. I was wondering if I shoot farther away I cant adjust it anymore. Anyways thanks for your prompt reply. I had learn a lot from your videos.
How to see the alignment of sight pin and target from the left side of the string or right side?? I am right handed person & right eye is dominant. Please drop the reply or make a video to demonstrate the same. Thank you :)
Both are great, but get the shibuya it has the same quality as the axcel but just a little bit cheaper. I recently found my self in the same situation as you,but finally bought the shibuya RC 2 and i couldnt be happier
so one quick question a sight is a sight right? whats the difference from your shibuya to like my krossen scorpion? already established once you get your horizontal bar set and pretty good to go. so its just vertical after that.. but isnt a sight just a sight?
I cover that question in this video: ua-cam.com/video/qR84b3mQUsc/v-deo.html Basically, expensive sights have much tighter locking mechanisms and finer adjustments. Cheaper sights have simpler locking screws that tend to come loose frequently from vibrations.
so no matter what we all know we need to tighten bolts down no matter what risers or limbs, sight or stabilizers. its essentially after that just frequency and size of adjustments.. havent really ran into an issue where my bow is just wobbly lol.. so if i take care of it im good. should look at the krossen scorpion i kinda like it.. its like mid level quality but stable. with allowing capabilities of pristine quality sight. id love a review of what you thing about it. id think its better than that cartel lol. a somewhere in the middle view would be great
I have my sight aligned with my string and i anyone pick up my bow they can hit the centre. As you said, if you arn't shooting consistently adjusting is pointless. I have never changed my sight since I brought the bow but it show how inconsistent my aiming is.
hi , i am looking for shibuya CPX 520 carbon , but i don´t know what length i need to buy ,I just only need to shoot at 70m How long do you recommend? , 6" or 9" Thx for your great video
I'd go for the 9" sight, it does the same as the 6" and more :o) The price different shouldn't be that much. But if you never shoot at long range targets, the 6" is good enough.
Yeah I didn't do that to get my 70m setting... I was dumb and went right out to 70 (with new limbs and arrows) estimated my sight drop and lost an arrow. Went down and picked up two half of my ACE then adjusted my sight again and got on target. But that was about a $40 sight setting.
Does anyone know a good recurve that youth can use? I want something at about 20 pound draw weight and somewhere around 100 to 150 dollars. If this helps I am an intermediate archer with a compound bow and somewhat good with barebow recurves
Hello NUSensei. you sir are the Definite go to for help Re: recurve target bows. Please don't laugh.. I've got a Timber/Creek Stalker recurve bow 54" at 45lbs on it I've put a KROSSEN Scorpion/Sight the Front Screw/SG01-18 Please excuse my ignorance Do I slacken it To adjust the So say Micro-adjust Windage. It seems When I Loosen it all it Does is Loosen the Sight pin and i can Screw Back and forth With my fingers. the Micro- adjust Doesn't seem to Do nothing?
you're amazing my main man NUSensei, keep the good work up! love whatching your vids and getting a prespective from a Recurve bow shooter as i shoote compound!:D
Hey Nu, I've been watching a lot of your videos and I'm kinda getting interested target archery whereas I originally wanted to get into traditional archery. I'm currently using a kind of regular hunting (bare)bow. If I'm going to switch to target archery I'll have to get new gear, but this bow will do for a while, until I can get new gear, right? It should be the same except maybe anchor point regarding technique, so training with my current bow should be fine. But maybe you have some tips on stuff I need to keep an eye and get for target archery?
+Randy te Morsche There's no reason why you can't use a hunting bow as a target bow, heck, in field and 3D tournaments, there are even specific bow classes that only allow barebows.
If you're talking about Olympic/FITA style archery, then yes you can practice using a target style anchor rather than string walking with your current bow.
I only shot FITA for a couple months, but for stuff to keep an eye on and tips: Don't use a sight until you can get 2" groupings at 8 yards or more, if you can't, you're not going to be able to take full advantage of the sight. Loc-Tite thread-lock anything that isn't going to be adjusted, loose bolts can screw you over. Avoid low end sights (sub 50$-ish?), I've seen cheap with metal so soft that the main vertical bar has worn beyond usable and repairable. If you get the chance, try out different finger tabs, each one feels different and may change your anchor and release. I'm not going to make recommendations for specific brands or models, as I only shot a vintage Yamaha bow.
Kaye Sanchez IMO it would even be quite dangerous to align the string to the pin since it brings the string closer to your arm. You can got hit by your bowstring if you do that.
I bought an SF Axiom long sight for £22.50 on eBay - good enough for the Sage as a beginner, short and long range targets - they come in black or silver, left or right. For the price of one of those Shibuya Optima sights, you can buy 2 or 3 Samick Sage bows, depending on the deal... And like NUSensei says - you can always upgrade later on with a better optic.
Amy Miles TH as: Kin to Mayumi! I’m no expert but what my coach told me is when an arrow is always hitting left then you have to adjust the windage to the left. The more to the right you go the more it will go to the left
Hello Nu Sensei, I have a question regarding focusing on the sight. I can't see the sight pin nor string when shooting 70m if I focus on the target when going through the whole shot process. If I focus on the sight all the time and only when I'm ready to release, I focus on the target, then I can see the blurred sight. it is either this, or closing my non dominant eye ( which I dont like nor it feels right to me ). Where should your eye focus be on every part of the shot process? I've heard you should check the clicker visually. Can you make a video about eye focus while performing the shot process? what is your opinion on this matter? Thank you
Some people do a spot-check on the clicker. However, I think it is more important to trust your process and focus on the target 100% of the time - before, during and after the shot, including "following through" with your eyes. Any time spent re-acquiring the target is a second lost in my shot rhythm. I should have no reason to doubt if I am correctly at full draw.
+NUSensei Yes I agree, and that is how I make my shot process indoors, but when going 70m I cannot even see the sight pin, so I really need to re-acquire the target by closing ( full or just a little ) the non dominant eye because I completely loose my sight picture if I cant see the string nor the pin. Any advice?
i feel the same way once everything is dialed in.. eventually its either one or the other. and i found its just force of habit if youre used to shooting guns youre told to always keep both eyes open no matter what.. took me FOREVER to well not feel like im killing myself by closing one eye.. after that its just making sure you do it enough to know what feels right. is the string aligned with your face like it should be nose to lip to chin.. wrist straight? full draw good form. then toss out about 100 or so arrows till you know what your body is spossed to do. practice till you cant get it wrong.. one eye or two.. youll get it eventually. he did mention in one video the sight isnt a thing to get bullseye homing arrows its a reference point. at 70 m you just need your sight to atleast be on the target so youre not missing completely.. after that the rest is up to you and your form
This is true (and my bow is out of tune anyway). Any horizontal changes will be minute, and may reflect the wind conditions on the day if it is consistent.
quick questions about this though. if i have my sight close then move it farther out will i still get the same results and then just micro adjust my sight? ive mine set out as far as possible lol.. what about the placement of the vertical bar? why move it up or down? which one is close or long distance? can i just find one sweet spot for it all? i havent changed it from the middle bolts works for what im working with... why would i need to change it? are they kinda imagining youre shooting 300-500 yd targets? who does that ??!?! lol
The positioning of the bar will change your sight settings. A setting on the 1st notch will not be the same as the 5th notch. Most people don't change the vertical bar. However, this may be required to get the right range of settings to cover the distances that are being shot, and also depends on arrow and draw weight. For example, the default configuration on my sight did not give me a setting for under 20m, which wasn't useful because I did a lot of form training under that distance. The lack of settings for close distances also meant that I couldn't effectively shoot a field round that had 15m targets. I shifted the vertical bar so that I could get more sight settings at close distances while still having the space to go up to 70m. I probably can't get a 90m setting with the current configuration.
well yea like i said my target do i raise it up if im shooting closer? or down for farther? im just trying to learn about a sight. like there is the option to move it but what does that really do? ium hoping from 10-15 yrds yo dont need a sight but could i get an exapnple of what a difference in adjustment means for a 50 yard target and how to set it up from a close sight to a sight set farther away? of coutse you have to take into account if youre drawing 30 lbs or 100 lbs as to where you place it. but im sure moving it still serves a function doesnt it? how does it actually help an archer? why do i need that feature? like for example hows it work? i got a a target sighted in.. can i just move the sight out farther if my target is just farther away? or vioce versa? what purpose does it serve? obviously people dont move it prolly cuz nobody knows what it actually does! lol. larger adjustments to small adjustments ok.. but does it stay on target when making those adjustments if i just m,ove my bar out for a closer or farther target?
ok sorry.. theres are many parts to a sight and different lengths where you can put the horizontal bar out far or up close.. or the vertical one you can change the height of it. whats the purpose of doing either of them? would it be for a different distance? you mentioned i could move my sight farther out for small adjustments or closer in for bigger adjustments. first question was about the horizontal bar if i have my sight in close and zero that in at a close distance, then move farther back could i set my sights farther back and still get the same results with just smaller adjustments or would i have to reset everything all over again? for example start at 10-15 m with it close up... go 20-25 put it farther back 30-35 even farther 50 even farther until i get my sight out at a 70 m shot with minor adjustments to get it to work.. would seem awkward to just go 70m and go oops i missed. just looking for an easier way to make sure i stay on target. like when you were shooting you just had it set out far and kept doing your walk back. just wondering if that could work. second question was about the vertical one. do i even need to touch it or adjust that one, my sight came factory default just in the middle . whats the effect if i do need to raise or lower that vertical bar? i dont have the opportunities to just test a 70 meter shot or i would. or a raised or lowered target to such an extreme degree. for target shooting typically your target is right in front of you. couldnt i just leave it where it is for everything or not? i have noticed if i move my sight TOOO low it would actuall obsctruct the arrows path off my bow idk why thats a thing but it does. my arrow would legit clip the bottom of my bar lol.. move it REALLY high up and i have no idea what im shooting at there to need it that high up who needs a sight pin raised by 13 inches lol? or lowered even.
1) Horizontal bar adjustment might be true for one specific distance (i.e. the point-blank distance), however since you are changing the angle from your eye as you move the sight closer or further, the sight will be incorrect for all other distances. You cannot simply move the bar in or out for finer adjustment on the fly - and you really don't need to. Effectively, this means that each notch will require a different sight setting. 2) The vertical bar is only moved if you require a certain range of sight settings. Some people who shoot very close distances or very far distances may need the extra space on the top or bottom. For example, the default configuration does not give me enough space to move my sight up for
I love that you show your "failed" shots. Its pretty discouraging to watch people hitting target each and every time, and it feels good to see a trained individual such as yourself still having "bad shots".
Newby, been shooting for only 2 weeks. Your videos are great with clear, easy to understand explanations, learnt somuch from them, thank you very much!
Amen to that. My first few months I watched pretty much all his vids and learned an absolute ton.
Same here , got a 34 pound Cartel S1 recurve 2 weeks ago and am now getting 6in groupings at 30ft , 8-9in at 80ft without a sight , no local archery club so NUSensei is my only source of info atm. Thank you for yer vids sir they are a lifeline :)
Yes I've only been shooting for a few weeks, and every new NuSensei video is a revelation, the lessons really sink in
Your a pro now !
If you're watching this, consider watching the ads, in full, along with it, if it's the only financial thanks you're giving NUSensei. Thanks for the refresher video NUSensei! I'm a relatively established instinctive shooter, but I'm returning for a second novice go at Olympic (and aiming with any real sight at all). It may never be my forte, but I couldn't rest until I was capable.
NU sensai s message has 2 most important keys
1. follow the arrow 6:43
2. if you are not shooting well then it does not matter where you aim 10:39
Thank you very much. Very helpfull for me!!
I've just fitted a proper target sight to my compound bow and this gave me exactly the information I was looking for - plus some other salient points I hadn't yet thought about, so many thanks Nusensei.😊👍🏻🙏🏻
Great, concise video. I am a beginner, just got my gear. I watched many of your videos to know what gear to buy and to even understand what the different parts are called (and if they are truly necessary or optional). Even my sight came with zero instructions, so it was great help to watch this to know where to mount it and then how to use it. Thank you for your hard work putting these videos up. I appreciate them
I've been shooting traditional barebow for 6 months or so, and I've just picked up a sight to fit to one of my bows. Thanks for making such a comprehensive video with everything I need to know to get it fitted, adjusted and set up all in one clear video - as always, great work! Thanks!
Dude, you are awesome. I just purchased my first takedown recurve bow and accessories and I wouldnt have felt confident to do so without your videos. Unfortunately I did not order a sight, but I think I will now after seeing this. Your videos are very articulate with enough details without rambling on one point too long. Thank you for taking the time to do this. You should really monetize your account. Most videos arent worth waiting through ads, but yours are and you should be compensated for them.
It's been my second day of archery. I have made 3 bull's eye shots! Thank you so much:)
Raymond in the UK......very helpful...best youtube advice that I have found
Fantastic presentation. The choice of words for the composition of the statements is amazing. Great Job!
Great vid, thankyou. I have a head scratcher for experienced archers or better yet any coaches out there:
I'm left handed, left eye dominant. When I started shooting I just picked up a cheap fibreglass bow (now shooting a flatbow, looking to move into recurve) the basic instructions that came with the bow showed a right handed archer & the tab that came with the kit was a right handed one. Being totally green & not having a sight on it, I didn't appreciate the importance handedness & eye dominance. So I learned to shoot right handed now a few years down the line & getting serious about archery, and as mentioned making the leap into recurve (driving down to Merlin Archery wednesday to pick one up! whoop whoop); I'm unsure whether to stick with what I know or to be clumsy again & make the switch to left handed gear?
Shooting my flatbow I have to close my left eye to sight down the string & arrow tip, I've been wondering how will this affect the use of a sight? Don't recurve coaches insist that you shoot with both eyes open? To complicate matters further my right eye is lazy (amblyopia) & opticians I've seen have remarked that my eyes work independently of one another (no, I don't use them like a chameleon lol) when gauging distance. I said to the optician well how come I'm not knocking things over & missing things I grab for? She said my brain has developed compensation methods over the years to gauge distance.
Now obviously I'm going to ask the guys/gals at merlin for their input on the matter but I'm keen to get as many opinions as I can, so would be really really grateful for anyone else's opinion on it! Many thanks!
This is the best / simplest explanation of using a recurve sight I've seen. Love your videos and they have helped so much in my early/newbie stages of getting to grips with a recurve bow.
Well done for giving me common sense instructions on the sight block. I have an Avalon Tec one and had my sight block about 3/4 towards to firing end of the riser. I never thought of the fact the further out the sight block is, the smaller the adjustments become. I'll test this in my archery session tonight at the club. Thanks!
Thanks for the movie! Just started again after 20 years. Schooting hoyt pro medalist. Greetings from Holland
This is great. Just started and very helpful for adjusting my sight. I never knew/been told that the sight is just a reference, I spend most of the shot trying to get the sight over the gold etc then wonder why the arrow goes somewhere else :)
thanks Sensei, i want more consistency at longer ranges i am trying a sight for the first time and wanted to know how to use one. when i did a search on recurve sights guess what? you popped up. every time i want to learn something about archery you are the man to watch. easy instructions and tips to follow.
9:50 air is warmer so air rises, so arrow goes further. Updraft on the ground is infinitesimal. Arrow goes further in warmer air because the air is less dense, hence less resistance. Otherwise another great job, thanks.
Great Video as always. I have watched and re-referenced many
of them since i have been coaching and found them very helpful. One additional valuable
point which you could add on this vid, is why you might need to bring the sight
closer to the riser - when aiming at more distant targets and you have run out
of downward adjustment.
Thanks, Rick
Already included in the followup "Sighting Tips" video.
I just had an aha moment when you said "follow the arrows"..ur a great teacher.
I was waiting for this video. I am a beginner and so is my brother. We were shooting last week and I put my very basic sight onto the bow and it was far to close to the arrow. He took one shot and the sight broke. It was just a very basic plastic sight but it is in the bin now. lol
Excellent video... I have a question about that additional viewfinder you put on the "Shibuya" viewfinder (the one with no magnification)... could you give more information about it... pin size and how it influences the aim? ?. Brand ("titan"???) ..where can I buy it? Thanks for your attention.
your videos are very helpful thank u very much for this content. I appreciate it.
Another new archer finding your videos very helpful. Loving archery but so much to learn. Thank you.
Hay, just want to thank you for your videos, I've just started getting into archery and your videos are a great help .
Huge compliment on your videos! Lots of useful informations and a very entertaining presentation!
I honestly just use a sight to somewhat line up my left/right and use an instinctive esque judgment for distance. I am a beginner and this may not be orthodox, but it's kinda worked so far.
I just picked up a SF Velocity Pro the other day and I'm trying to get into the swing of adjusting it. At home while I practice using it, I'm having trouble figuring out the left/right adjustments. I see you making an adjustment at 8:51 to chase the arrow to the right, but it's hard to tell in what direction you are turning the tuning knob. Since you have your bow on your stand, and laying horizontal, are you turning it towards the lower end of the bow, effectively to the right? As in, if you were to make the adjustment while standing - Downward turn is right, and upward is left?
I'm not sure if I notice a visual change in the sight when I turn the knob. My sight didn't come with any instructions so I'm unsure if I'm actually making changes or if I'm doing something wrong. I'm aware of issues with form and consistency so I only try to make adjustments once I've made a decent grouping.
6:29
Where should you place your eye? Outside the string(left) or between the string(right) and the bow?
Or whatever, as long as we always do the same?
Trad by google
Thanks for all the good advice on your videos. This one was very helpful on sight picture and string position. keep them coming. JD.
Another awesome video....thanks!!!
i just got into archery and been learning alot with all of your videos.
Shooted for 3 years, still find ur videos are very useful!
My girlfriend started to shoot this month, and your archey videos helped a lot.
THX :)
hello friend, i am very very tankful for everyting you are teaching me ! NUSensei, can you tell me how far i have to turn my head when i am ful draw?
NuSensei, thank you for lesson. God job.
Great info ...Thanks for posting!
4:50 - You talked briefly about where to line up the string in relation to the sight housing or riser. Is it wrong of me to (right handed shooter) line the string up with the left side of the sight housing? It is what came naturally to me but I can't seem to find anyone saying to line it up on the left side of the sight.
As long as it's consistent.
@@NUSensei well I shot a 46/60 average my first time at 50m tonight. I've had my recurve for two months now.
Amazing explanation thank you so much!
Quandary? I have dropped my sight to nearly the dead bottom of elevation at ten yards. I haven't tried different anchor points but I assume that is probably the only way to get some of that elevation back? It is a Sureloc sight and I was shooting 3 under at the time. I have a pretty massive aperture on it at the moment I suppose it could be part of the problem as well? I just set it up tonight and my groups shrank from basketball at 10 yards to a tangerine at 20 (though about a foot and a half low) by adding a sight, HUGE fan.
Great little vid!
Love the videos, out of date but worth mentioning the glass on the titan sight is back to front on your vid. The anti glare coating should be on the outside 🤫👍
Please a little help on how to aim... which side of the string should we aim from...? I aim from the right side of the string between the string and raiser and if from the left side of the string, as you have shown in this video, how to do it while keeping the string in centre of the raiser...???
first time with a sight so thanks for useful info.
Im binge watching NUSensei while waiting for my bow arrival 😂
Lol me too💜💜💓
I have got a question for you
The bow sight is mounted at a height above the arrow and if the bow sight is parallel to the arrow when you are sighting the target you are viewing the target at a height above the arrow right
Then how the arrow will hit the target if the arrow is not pointing to the target and only the sight does ? The only way it is possible if the line of sight and the arrow Head converges at the target ?it does somehow and I want to know how any help would be benefial hope you can help
New to archery...when I started shooting, the instructor(he's so intimidating and Im not good with people) said I have to point the sight at the yellow circle to actually hit the yellow circle and it goes down outside the the target paper when I released the arrow...it happens so often that I ignore the sight and focus on what you've teach on the beginners video and I hit the yellow circle...haha...I also feel uncomfortable using sight
Thank you for the video Nu sensei, it's quite helpful. Would you mind if I share your videos to another website for the people in mainland China?
Feel free to share my videos.
Thank you so much!
~6:20 great advice .. Thanks..
Awesome job with your instructions! Learning TONS !!! Keep it up! Thanks !!
Please do a vlog about how to aim with in a bow to easy to recognized how high or low based on its distance thank you😆 (have a camera in a bow)
Hi I'm shooting at about 50 yards but my sight wont go any lower?any advice please.
What technique is better for newbies (like me xd) to get more consistency between shots, align the string with the riser or with the side of the pin?
Hello! How to get a correct size bow? I'm a beginner and i want to buy.
Hi, First Thanks for the information about archery. All video's are great and helpful. I was wondering where did you buy you glass aperture, please.
thanks and all the best.
It's the Titan Scope (Recurve model). I bought mine from Urban Archery.
+NUSensei You are great my friend. I am joining Waverley City Archers soon I hope I will see you there some day. thanks again
Awesome. WCA is a very nice club and I hope you have a good time there.
Nusensei
I want to ask if my arrows in different places, what will be the problem?
Am using 68" 26lbn recurve bow, i need your advice to buy arrows ( length, spine, material, brand)?
Thanks for your support.
I have a question when you adjust the weight of the sight do you count on the upper part of the sight block or the lower part
What material do you use as padding, sensei?
why do you have to adjust the left/right alignment of the sight for different distances ? if the bow and arrows are correctly tuned to each other wouldn't the arrows fly straight down the line without the need for lateral adjustment ?
Correct, normally you wouldn't have to adjust horizontal if everything is in tune. That said, sometimes conditions differ enough on the day that your patterns are consistently off, necessitating windage adjustment. In a competition setting, it is important to adjust to what is happening rather than what should be happening.
+NUSensei In your video you try to explain "walk back tuning", but I think you're confused about what walk back tuning is. Walk back tuning is used to get the correct center shot, not sight settings. You aim at a spot at the top of the target/bale, shoot 3 arrows that group, then walk back 10-meters and do the same thing without adjusting your site. You continue doing this until your groups are at the bottom of the target/bale. Ideally, your groups will follow a straight vertical line down. If arrows group to the right (for a right handed archer), your centershot(plunger) is too far in and must be moved out. If the groups go to the left of center, move plunger in.
You have a lot of great info in your videos, but please make sure you're not confusing terms for beginning archers. It's hard enough for beginners to achieve good form, let's not make it harder on them by confusing advice.
Cheers
I didn't say "walk back tuning". I just called the process a "walk back" i.e. getting your sight settings at each distance starting at the closest.
+NUSensei Looks like some others had similar concerns.
Hi Nu Sensei, am a beginner at 51 and have watched almost all of your videos (except product reviews) on archery. They're awesome and most helpful for me. Thank you so much.
I have a question. I have slight astigmatism (cyclindrical error) in my shooting eye (right eye) and wear bifocals including a correction for astigmatism.However, I dont use my glasses while am shooting as am uncomfortable wearing it then. Any suggestions on how one can deal with this challenge while aiming?
Dhanabalan RK You’d probably need to wear the glasses since they correct the Astigmatism.
Hi David, just curious what brand fiber optic (blue) aperture are you using with your Shabuya recurve sight. Thx
Titan Scope.
@@NUSensei Thanks David. That's what I thought. Found it at LancasterArchery in US
NUSensei i need a help.When i aim with the arrow i see that its "touching" the center of a target.But when i fire it the arro flyies like way higher can you help me?
See this video:
ua-cam.com/video/-vH_lit1sj8/v-deo.html
Basically, the arrow is angled upwards when you anchor, so pointing the arrow straight at the centre means you are way too high. The arrow should be at the bottom of the target, not the middle. If you feel that your point of aim is too low or too high, then lower or raise your reference point accordingly.
NUSensei Thanks :D
in sighting do you need to put the pin in the middle of the target board like in the bulls eye?
Most of the time. This will make it easier for the brain to acquire the right sight picture, so you can confidently execute the shot. You could sight the pin elsewhere, and sometimes you will have to (such as when you are aiming off due to wind), but it is far easier to centre the sight ring over the bullseye consistently.
NUSensei thank you so much!☺ ill keep it in mind
What kind of arrows do you recommend for recurve shooting
I align the string with the sight and the target. Because I draw my hand not into the mouth corner but under my jaw bone. So shouldn't adjust the sight laterally when I change shooting distance..
I’m a target compound archer. I use a scope with a fibre and zoom lens. I use a peep sight. But I’m still here watching this, just for the entertainment value
I have a question. A teacher told me to put the point of the arrow on the bulls eye. Should I do so?
Do what your teacher says. :-) There's probably a reason. With a bare bow you wont hit the center, but you will have a consistent grouping at least.
From my experiences, I would say no. But usually a teacher says things for a reason, so maybe you should ask your teacher.
Would shooting the bow in very different temperatures effect the accuracy of the sight for long distances? Thanks.
The short answer is yes. Air temperature will often affect the flight of the arrow over long distance, especially if conditions fluctuate between warm and cool.
May ask some question my sight are way too low for me (3 clicks a way from the bottom ) I have an accurate shot but when I see most of the archers are in the middle or almost on top. Do I have to adjust my nock point down a little to compensate for the sight? or Just let it be as long as I am consistent at my shot?
It might be that they are using a heavier draw weight than you. Don't adjust your nocking point to use your sight.
@@NUSensei my sight and my arrow only have 1 inch gap is it normal? I am shooting at my backyard with 20 meters distance. I was wondering if I shoot farther away I cant adjust it anymore. Anyways thanks for your prompt reply. I had learn a lot from your videos.
Extremely helpful, much appreciated.
sir can you make a how to replace a sight pin video
thanks, find your videos really helpful
How to see the alignment of sight pin and target from the left side of the string or right side?? I am right handed person & right eye is dominant. Please drop the reply or make a video to demonstrate the same. Thank you :)
I'm looking at getting a top end sight for recurve.Should I get a shibuya or an acel sight?
Both are great, but get the shibuya it has the same quality as the axcel but just a little bit cheaper. I recently found my self in the same situation as you,but finally bought the shibuya RC 2 and i couldnt be happier
guess I'm unlucky here with being right-handed shooter who's left eye dominant, any tips here?
Thank you for your video Coach!
so one quick question a sight is a sight right? whats the difference from your shibuya to like my krossen scorpion? already established once you get your horizontal bar set and pretty good to go. so its just vertical after that..
but isnt a sight just a sight?
I cover that question in this video:
ua-cam.com/video/qR84b3mQUsc/v-deo.html
Basically, expensive sights have much tighter locking mechanisms and finer adjustments. Cheaper sights have simpler locking screws that tend to come loose frequently from vibrations.
THANK YOU
so no matter what we all know we need to tighten bolts down no matter what risers or limbs, sight or stabilizers. its essentially after that just frequency and size of adjustments.. havent really ran into an issue where my bow is just wobbly lol.. so if i take care of it im good. should look at the krossen scorpion i kinda like it.. its like mid level quality but stable. with allowing capabilities of pristine quality sight. id love a review of what you thing about it. id think its better than that cartel lol. a somewhere in the middle view would be great
I have my sight aligned with my string and i anyone pick up my bow they can hit the centre.
As you said, if you arn't shooting consistently adjusting is pointless.
I have never changed my sight since I brought the bow but it show how inconsistent my aiming is.
hi , i am looking for shibuya CPX 520 carbon , but i don´t know what length i need to buy ,I just only need to shoot at 70m
How long do you recommend? , 6" or 9" Thx for your great video
I'd go for the 9" sight, it does the same as the 6" and more :o) The price different shouldn't be that much. But if you never shoot at long range targets, the 6" is good enough.
Yeah I didn't do that to get my 70m setting... I was dumb and went right out to 70 (with new limbs and arrows) estimated my sight drop and lost an arrow. Went down and picked up two half of my ACE then adjusted my sight again and got on target. But that was about a $40 sight setting.
Does anyone know a good recurve that youth can use? I want something at about 20 pound draw weight and somewhere around 100 to 150 dollars. If this helps I am an intermediate archer with a compound bow and somewhat good with barebow recurves
Hello NUSensei. you sir are the Definite go to for help Re: recurve target bows. Please don't laugh.. I've got a Timber/Creek Stalker recurve bow 54" at 45lbs on it I've put a KROSSEN Scorpion/Sight the Front Screw/SG01-18 Please excuse my ignorance Do I slacken it To adjust the So say Micro-adjust Windage. It seems When I Loosen it all it Does is Loosen the Sight pin and i can Screw Back and forth With my fingers. the Micro- adjust Doesn't seem to Do nothing?
Very good video
do you sight at the bulls eye?
you're amazing my main man NUSensei, keep the good work up! love whatching your vids and getting a prespective from a Recurve bow shooter as i shoote compound!:D
may i know how many draw weight of your bow that u are shooting?Thank you in advance
40#
Good job I think I learned some thing keep up the good work
Hey Nu, I've been watching a lot of your videos and I'm kinda getting interested target archery whereas I originally wanted to get into traditional archery. I'm currently using a kind of regular hunting (bare)bow. If I'm going to switch to target archery I'll have to get new gear, but this bow will do for a while, until I can get new gear, right? It should be the same except maybe anchor point regarding technique, so training with my current bow should be fine. But maybe you have some tips on stuff I need to keep an eye and get for target archery?
+Randy te Morsche There's no reason why you can't use a hunting bow as a target bow, heck, in field and 3D tournaments, there are even specific bow classes that only allow barebows.
If you're talking about Olympic/FITA style archery, then yes you can practice using a target style anchor rather than string walking with your current bow.
I only shot FITA for a couple months, but for stuff to keep an eye on and tips: Don't use a sight until you can get 2" groupings at 8 yards or more, if you can't, you're not going to be able to take full advantage of the sight. Loc-Tite thread-lock anything that isn't going to be adjusted, loose bolts can screw you over. Avoid low end sights (sub 50$-ish?), I've seen cheap with metal so soft that the main vertical bar has worn beyond usable and repairable. If you get the chance, try out different finger tabs, each one feels different and may change your anchor and release. I'm not going to make recommendations for specific brands or models, as I only shot a vintage Yamaha bow.
do you need to align the string to the pin of the sight ?
Kaye Sanchez I haven't heard of people doing that. I usually just align the string with the center of the limbs for each shot.
Kaye Sanchez IMO it would even be quite dangerous to align the string to the pin since it brings the string closer to your arm. You can got hit by your bowstring if you do that.
thanks. ill follow your tip
Great information, thanks
what kinda sight would you recommend for a samsage
I bought an SF Axiom long sight for £22.50 on eBay - good enough for the Sage as a beginner, short and long range targets - they come in black or silver, left or right. For the price of one of those Shibuya Optima sights, you can buy 2 or 3 Samick Sage bows, depending on the deal... And like NUSensei says - you can always upgrade later on with a better optic.
In the end it is up to you how much you want to spend. Just don't go over the top, it would be like putting a diamond collar on a mongrel dog ;o)
Lost Braincells For a second there I could have sworn you were asking about what sight you should use for a sausage
What's the distance of shooting? The one that u shot indoors
Five metres.
There is something wrong with me when my arrow are little to the left I have to adjust my sight to the right or else it will more on the left again.
Amy Miles TH as: Kin to Mayumi! I’m no expert but what my coach told me is when an arrow is always hitting left then you have to adjust the windage to the left. The more to the right you go the more it will go to the left
Hello Nu Sensei, I have a question regarding focusing on the sight. I can't see the sight pin nor string when shooting 70m if I focus on the target when going through the whole shot process. If I focus on the sight all the time and only when I'm ready to release, I focus on the target, then I can see the blurred sight. it is either this, or closing my non dominant eye ( which I dont like nor it feels right to me ). Where should your eye focus be on every part of the shot process? I've heard you should check the clicker visually. Can you make a video about eye focus while performing the shot process? what is your opinion on this matter? Thank you
Some people do a spot-check on the clicker. However, I think it is more important to trust your process and focus on the target 100% of the time - before, during and after the shot, including "following through" with your eyes. Any time spent re-acquiring the target is a second lost in my shot rhythm. I should have no reason to doubt if I am correctly at full draw.
+NUSensei Yes I agree, and that is how I make my shot process indoors, but when going 70m I cannot even see the sight pin, so I really need to re-acquire the target by closing ( full or just a little ) the non dominant eye because I completely loose my sight picture if I cant see the string nor the pin. Any advice?
I can't specifically guide you on this one. You will need to work with a coach.
+NUSensei thank you!
i feel the same way once everything is dialed in.. eventually its either one or the other. and i found its just force of habit if youre used to shooting guns youre told to always keep both eyes open no matter what.. took me FOREVER to well not feel like im killing myself by closing one eye..
after that its just making sure you do it enough to know what feels right. is the string aligned with your face like it should be nose to lip to chin.. wrist straight? full draw good form. then toss out about 100 or so arrows till you know what your body is spossed to do. practice till you cant get it wrong.. one eye or two.. youll get it eventually.
he did mention in one video the sight isnt a thing to get bullseye homing arrows its a reference point. at 70 m you just need your sight to atleast be on the target so youre not missing completely.. after that the rest is up to you and your form
hola me gusta tu canal pero me gustaria que este subtitulado saludos desde Argentina..
PLEASE TELL SOME HOROZETAL ADJESTMENT OF SIGHT PLEASE
you move the pin further out or closer to the sight bar to adjust horizonaly
I think technically you should not have to make any (or minimal) horizontal adjustments for different distances if a bow is tuned right.
This is true (and my bow is out of tune anyway). Any horizontal changes will be minute, and may reflect the wind conditions on the day if it is consistent.
quick questions
about this though. if i have my sight close then move it farther out will i still get the same results and then just micro adjust my sight? ive mine set out as far as possible lol.. what about the placement of the vertical bar? why move it up or down? which one is close or long distance? can i just find one sweet spot for it all? i havent changed it from the middle bolts works for what im working with... why would i need to change it? are they kinda imagining youre shooting 300-500 yd targets? who does that ??!?! lol
The positioning of the bar will change your sight settings. A setting on the 1st notch will not be the same as the 5th notch.
Most people don't change the vertical bar. However, this may be required to get the right range of settings to cover the distances that are being shot, and also depends on arrow and draw weight. For example, the default configuration on my sight did not give me a setting for under 20m, which wasn't useful because I did a lot of form training under that distance. The lack of settings for close distances also meant that I couldn't effectively shoot a field round that had 15m targets. I shifted the vertical bar so that I could get more sight settings at close distances while still having the space to go up to 70m. I probably can't get a 90m setting with the current configuration.
well yea like i said my target do i raise it up if im shooting closer? or down for farther? im just trying to learn about a sight. like there is the option to move it but what does that really do? ium hoping from 10-15 yrds yo dont need a sight but could i get an exapnple of what a difference in adjustment means for a 50 yard target and how to set it up from a close sight to a sight set farther away?
of coutse you have to take into account if youre drawing 30 lbs or 100 lbs as to where you place it. but im sure moving it still serves a function doesnt it? how does it actually help an archer? why do i need that feature?
like for example hows it work? i got a a target sighted in.. can i just move the sight out farther if my target is just farther away? or vioce versa? what purpose does it serve? obviously people dont move it prolly cuz nobody knows what it actually does! lol. larger adjustments to small adjustments ok.. but does it stay on target when making those adjustments if i just m,ove my bar out for a closer or farther target?
I honestly don't know what you're asking me. Could you clarify your question?
ok sorry.. theres are many parts to a sight and different lengths where you can put the horizontal bar out far or up close.. or the vertical one you can change the height of it. whats the purpose of doing either of them? would it be for a different distance? you mentioned i could move my sight farther out for small adjustments or closer in for bigger adjustments.
first question was about the horizontal bar if i have my sight in close and zero that in at a close distance, then move farther back could i set my sights farther back and still get the same results with just smaller adjustments or would i have to reset everything all over again?
for example start at 10-15 m with it close up... go 20-25 put it farther back 30-35 even farther 50 even farther until i get my sight out at a 70 m shot with minor adjustments to get it to work.. would seem awkward to just go 70m and go oops i missed. just looking for an easier way to make sure i stay on target. like when you were shooting you just had it set out far and kept doing your walk back. just wondering if that could work.
second question was about the vertical one. do i even need to touch it or adjust that one, my sight came factory default just in the middle . whats the effect if i do need to raise or lower that vertical bar? i dont have the opportunities to just test a 70 meter shot or i would. or a raised or lowered target to such an extreme degree. for target shooting typically your target is right in front of you. couldnt i just leave it where it is for everything or not? i have noticed if i move my sight TOOO low it would actuall obsctruct the arrows path off my bow idk why thats a thing but it does. my arrow would legit clip the bottom of my bar lol.. move it REALLY high up and i have no idea what im shooting at there to need it that high up who needs a sight pin raised by 13 inches lol? or lowered even.
1) Horizontal bar adjustment might be true for one specific distance (i.e. the point-blank distance), however since you are changing the angle from your eye as you move the sight closer or further, the sight will be incorrect for all other distances. You cannot simply move the bar in or out for finer adjustment on the fly - and you really don't need to. Effectively, this means that each notch will require a different sight setting.
2) The vertical bar is only moved if you require a certain range of sight settings. Some people who shoot very close distances or very far distances may need the extra space on the top or bottom. For example, the default configuration does not give me enough space to move my sight up for
I think walk back test is for tuning the spine
I love the tiny little first aid kit on the shelf - not exactly what you need when you've got an arrow stuck in the rear end...
You don't need a first-aid kit in that case. You need a good lawyer.
You're bloody right there mate :oD
Very Nice
Good Morning, NUSensei...
What sight do you recommend for the PSE Razorback XL?