Film and Night Photography
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- Опубліковано 11 січ 2020
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This video shows tips and techniques on how to use a Film camera at Night, how to expose the film and deal with other common problems such as Reciprocity failure plus how to set scale and zone focus on a lens.
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So many film photographers say "only shoot color film at night because of the higher dynamic range". I think they're missing out on something really special.
Wonderful images and presentation. Really nicely done.
All I can say is "Wonderful". Good Job !
Amazing explanation with the focusing system. Thanks for help!
Fantastic photos, video and commentary. One of the few YT photographers that I'll always follow. Hope all your beautiful images are saved for posterity.... if you ever have an exhibition Martin then please let us know....
Another amazing tutorial. Your channel is a real treasure find. :)
Martin, I have watched this video half a dozen times. Every time I am blown away by your photos.
I never cease to be educated and inspired by Martin's videos. The man is a walking photographic encyclopedia
Beautiful photographs and a very helpful video.. Thank you
Enjoyed the music very much also. Great choice.
Great explanation, as always, and great results…thank you
EXCELLANT! Very informative.
Outstanding pictures! Very inspiring
Martin,
The Salt Marsh Weir and Potting Shed prints arrived today. Beautiful images and breataking print quality. Thank you.
Bob Gordon
Glad to hear they survived the journey to USA in tact and delighted you like them, behind glass they will last for many years and you have a little bit of English history and life in those two prints, thanks for letting me know, appreciated
@@martinhensonphotography My Scots ancestors came to the US in 1910 from Peterhead and Kirkwall. I have been interested in the UK since I was a child and visited Kirkwall in 1998.
Been a film shooter and darkroom printer since 1965.
Love your channel.
Thanks. Just what I am looking for.
Sometimes I come on UA-cam and find a gem, this is certainly one. Thank you very much.
Your welcome. glad you enjoyed it
Brilliant. Well done.
Terrific art sir wonderful tonal range
The quality is superb.
Gorgeous images Martin.
Thank you
I've returned to this video and watched it repeatedly. Much to learn and admire.
Thank you
Great video and pics mate, well done
Breathtaking
Thank you, appreciated, glad you enjoyed the video
Really inspiring and wonderful photos, you master your craft, congrats Martin !
Wonderful images and very helpful video, many thanks!
Your welcome , glad you enjoyed the video, thanks
Such a great pictures my man!!
This was amazingly helpful. I am a beginner in night photography in film and with your video I am now more confident to go out and shoot.
I am now suscribed as you have very helpful videos.
Thank you so much and regards from Cancun, Mexico.
Glad that it helps you with your night photography, regards Martin
So inspiring. Good sir you make beautiful images. You make me love photography more and more. We need more like you. Please keep passing on your knowledge, let’s not let this art die. Look forward more of your videos.
Thank you for taking the time to comment, and yes we must keep the art of analog photography alive , totally agree
Wonderful pictures
images,sharp, crisp amazing I had
never seen pinhole photos like these before
turning the nighttime into the day
Nice video, the one caveat is you are correct on exposing for the shadows with negatives but you expose for the highlights for positives ( chromes )
Yes I exposed for the darker areas because I was using negative film, thanks for the clarification
@@martinhensonphotography I hope more people follow your advice and try night photography. It can be challenging but very rewarding
Very informative video and very beautiful images! Thank you, Martin!
Excellent. Thank you for the detail, and the images aren’t half bad either
Every one of the photos from the Pentax LX was a stunner. Pentax really made some great stuff. They were all great shots but those from the LX stood out a bit for me.
Really inspiring and excellent detail. Great video Martin.
Thanks, Alec
Excellent video and photography. Very enjoyable and informative. I just watched about half a dozen 20 something kids making a video of the same subject, filming there first time out or nearly their first time. People are loosing the concept of delivering a quality product like you have done. I am going to see if I can leave a link to your video in their comments. Thanks again.
Thank you, appreciate your comments
Excellent video, beautiful images!!!!
Cheers
So nice. Thank you.
Great video and super informative.That's also the best explanation of zone focusing I've seen which is hugely helpful to a novice like myself. The photos are beautiful too, many thanks.
Thank you, appreciate your comments
Thank you for sharing your beautiful work and technique.
Glad you enjoyed it, thank you.
Thank you for this video. Very impressive pictures.
Great video Martin and beautiful photos! Congrats!
Thank you
Very informative video and outstanding photography.
Thank you , appreciated
I,m dying of envy. Beautiful photos! I never did black and white, but can’t way to start. Than you for all the great info.
Thank you, night photograph was daunting with film before
Hi there Martin. I was looking for some inspiring night photography for a current project I'm working on. Your images are gorgeous. Thank you for sharing all your knowledge and imagery. Great work.
Awesome explanation, very technical, very instructional. Thanks a lot for sharing your knowledge! Greetings from Brazil!
Thank you Martin for this video. Your channel has such valuable information and I really appreciate you sharing your experience and insights. Inspiring as always. Cheers, James (from Los Angeles)
Brilliant explanation thanks I have some Acros in the fridge for night photography time to give it a go 👍🏻
This was really inspiring. I started with film photography 6 years ago, but have still not done any night photography. After watching this video, I will most definitely give it a try. Thank you so much for this video. Greetings from Northern Norway.
Thank you, glad you found it helpful
Really great stuff... really liked the different formats and excellent exposure. Please keep it up!! Congrats
Thank you for watching and commenting
Excellent information, thank you.
Adam, glad you found the video helpful
Very inspiring, great video. That’s. Y efforts and camera for thé bin!
Fascinating images and great explanation. Thanks for sharing 🙏🏻
Your welcome, glad you enjoyed the video
Great images!
Very helpful thank you
Your welcome
thanks, that’s very instructive !
Your welcome, thanks
Just a great
This was THE best explanation I've seen/heard about hyperfocal focusing and zone focusing.
What I didn't quite understand is reducing development time. If you're expose "correctly" and time for reciprocity, then shouldn't the image be correct as shot? And if you reduce the development time wouldn't that result in an underexposed negative?
Also how did those Holga shots come out so clear?!
The exposure determines the negative density , development controls contrast, by lowering the the dev time it reduces the highlight density and has no effect on exposure, hence the saying “ expose for the shadows and develop for the highlights “
Maybe it’s it’s to do with the scan quality from the Nikon scanner or maybe I got a Holga with a half decent lens, they do vary , thanks
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you for that. I’ll have to experiment with this!
Beautiful pictures of a very beautiful old town. Thank you for that helpful tipps. You are mastering these strong contrasts very fine. Do you use preflashing film to get more details in the shadows? And had you try to shot 4x5 in the dark? I tried to focus with the help of a friend and a torch but it was a bit difficult to see the scene on the ground glas. Nest i will better try a wideangel and hyperfocal focusing…
This one is up to the superb standard we've come to expect. I'd like to share a trick I like to use, which is to carry a compact digital camera to take test shots before making an exposure on film. Of course you still have to compensate for reciprocity failure.
A question if I may: one of your images shows an apparently tranquil scene of a river bursting it's banks. Is that really what it seems? 🤔
Hello Martin, love your shots, I am getting in to black and white after shooting slide and colour neg for many years. I would expose for the highlights when shooting slide and let the blacks do what they will. With Black and white neg I understand you expose for the shadows, but would you also allow for zone metering ,effectively placing the shadows in zone 3 or 2 so as not to underexpose and everything coming out grey. I would then add more exposure for reciprocity failure. When it comes to developing I was thinking of using Rodinal stand develop as it is a compensating developer to reduce the bright highlights. Or could you use an incident meter and place the meter under a light to get an average reading ? and then increase exposure for reciprocity and then develop normally. Best
Thank you for your amazing tips! I have delta 400 and I wanted to try to push the film by two stops. I'm not developing the film by myself so I'm a little bit confused about what should I say to people in a lab before developing? How does it work in this case with the development time? Thank you again.
Thank you, tell the lab what iso you used,
I love the music where is it from?
Great video, Martin. What film stock were you shooting on the medium format cameras?
Fuji Acros mostly, thank you
Love your images, both composition and the wonderful b&w tones. I've never shot film at night, but I'm going to try now. What film stock do you favor? Do you push the film? Also, how in the world do you calculate exposure and development for the Holga?
I would use fuji Acros 11, when using the Holga I work with the meter set to f/8, use a cable release to keep the shutter open, just remember to give plenty of exposure time, then under develop the film by 30%
Martin Henson Thank you.
What film/iso/dev were you using for the Holga night shots? Beautiful work!!!
I use In the main Fuji Acros at 100iso, this keeps the exposure times at sensible levels, my main developer is Pyrocat HD
Just visited your channel on “shoot film like a boss” suggestion... and he was right.!!! Great videos and great photos!!
Two quick questions if I may... is the “new” Acros II free from reciprocity failure just like the old production??
And... “expose for shadow and develop for highlights” .. ok... but what concentration of HD110 do you use between the many (A, B, C,...F,) and what Dev time do you give it? I don’t get Pirogall where Iive.. Thanks Martin..
Yes Acros 11 is like the original film, as a standard developer HC110 works fine at 1 to 31, time is dependent on film choice, or 1 to 38 for all films 8 mins 20c, you can use it at higher dilutions for stand or semi stand development as well, here's a good read on it www.covingtoninnovations.com/hc110/
Thanks Martin... Keep up the good work!!
Hello,
How are you?
I much enjoyed your video.
I have a pseudo technical question.
How many rolls of medium format film can you develop from 1 liter each bottles of FP HD film developer?
I would imagine two unless the developer can be diluted.
If you have time, please reply
I am not sure of the developer your talking about,
Hi, how to measure the light by night ?
I'd buy that picture at 10:32, is it available. You are a great inspiration. Thank you.
Yes all my images are for sale, email me and I will send you prints sizes and prices , many thanks
@@martinhensonphotography Thank you. I cannot find your email address on your site, what is it?
@@darrylroberts4152 martin.henson4@outlook.com
Martin, I’m not able to find the reciprocity failure app. Can you please provide a link?
It’s called, Reciprocity timer app, sorry if I called it wrong
I wouldn’t recommend stopping down above f8 for night photography, the light streaks just don’t look good, it looks artificial, I would prefer to shoot wide open instead, so it gives light sources a more diffuse, rounded and natural look to it.
The other advice is to never shoot when it’s clear and that you can see the stars, nor deep into the night as the highlights and shadows have too much contrast. It depends on the scene, but the modern mercury lights tend to just blow too bright, giving hard shadows. A place too illuminated will also turn out very blend, you want to keep things subtle.
The real masters of photography reveal these in their photographs, people like Sudek, Bodine, Brassai, Brandt, Paul Martin, Burdekin and Morisson, they always shot in foggy conditions, overcast or cloudy and bright sky conditions at night, where there are only a few light sources.
The idea is to plan the shots carefully, to go early for the blue hour or at dusk as best as you can so it gives you enough time to compose and to have a flatter reading inbetween highlights and the shadows. Usually right when the lights turn on is the best hour to do night photography. Not so convenient when people rush for diner, but early morning also works and is probably the better time anyways.
Last tip is to carry a tissue to wipe your lens, for if you see a light streak in the viewfinder coming from a light source, you can make sure 100% it will appear in the shot, so you gotta keep the lens and the viewfinder clean and dry. Don’t underestimate that the light streaks can also come from your viewfinder, still, wipe it clean until you don’t see any streaks I’m telling you, or you can just learn that by yourself.
Night photography is probably the hardest exercise, it’s not easy to make a good looking shot, an interesting shot. What we see with the eyes and what the camera records is almost always off, and it’s even more true at night, having a keen eye for it at night demands years of experience, don’t be surprised if your pictures don’t look good for a great deal of shots.
Studying the masters and looking at their pictures carefully, even though they are often worked for printing can reveal lots of things and tips.
Not having the same types of light and film is also something to consider, but usually you want to underexpose and not shoot like this reading the highlights and the shadows, you want to underexpose for sure, shadows can be pushed, but highlights, if too blown, you cannot change anything about it, so keep in mind to always underexpose your shots, something like 1-2 stops.
When you look at a night shot negative, you want to see your shadows being quite transparent, you don’t want to have full details in your shadows, you want to see quite through the negative, these dark areas usually still have information, and you can push the shadows in post to make it less contrasty, this gives the proper night look to the shadows to not have too much contrast. I have never seen a good shot being too contrasty and black, all the pictures I love show almost no contrast whatsoever, you want to keep your shadows flat.
If you honestly consider these shots to be good or that it’s the way to do night photography we are not the same.
Referring to the masters once again, they didn’t have light meters like we do today, they knew the light by judgment of the eye.
If you consider making artistic pictures anyways, you don’t want to be too scientific about it and at anyone point, you want to get to know the light yourself and have your own judgment as to what setting to use and how long should the exposure be, it’s part of the job to get good pictures that have a feeling about them, use a light meter to help having a rough estimate, but don’t rely on it, I’ve learned it the hard way.