I’ve removed and replaced a couple of RC42 engines. Lying on its side and lifting the frame off is simpler as you’re not lifting 80kg but main tip is to remove the sump/oil pan as that gives you the little bit of extra clearance needed to make it easy. Obviously you could get the same clearance advantage by removing the head but that’s a bigger job.
I've removed and replaced my RC42 engine and completely agree, lifting the frame over the engine is definitely the easiest method. No need to take off the sump, just direct the sump into the frame first and then rotate the frame over the engine. Take the engine mounts out of the frame and replace them when the engine is in position 👍
Dan that vapor honing machine looks amazing. Looking forward to the engine re-build videos I will be doing the same in a month or two. Thanks for the shout out.
I will hopefully get to it soon :) May been to break the videos up into parts as I think parts can take a long time from Japan and it will help me do it in sections
@@CafeRacerGarage Yeah Dan good idea on a series of videos. FYI there is an ebay business (QLD based as well from memory) that sells a-lot of Japanese bike parts. I had trouble finding the matching alternator chain with OEM part number for my bike (no longer in production). If you have issues let me know I was referred to a knight hawk alternator chain (in the US) the same fit dimensions as the OEM for my model tired and tested by a few guys I am in contact with. Arrived in approx 5 days.
I took out my engine (rc42) myself with the bike standing on the center stand on the floor. I used a jack under the engine and tilted it out to the left. Then I used raw arm strength and lifted it out myself. The engine without any oil, carburetors and oil cooler weighed 78kg! 😓
You can use hold tite 102 to keep the flash rust from occurring. Just add to your water if its closed loop. If open loop then use a reservoir and a pump if the honer doesnt have a built in pump to draw water in to start with(not the high pressure recirc pump).
I have found that for me it seems easier to pull the wheels and remove the frame from the engine while its laying down. I can do that without help and people are unreliable so it almost seems easier.🤷🏻♂️
Well that's answered a question for me seeing you both struggling to get the lump out .. I've got the same issue of having to remove 1 from my trike ..great brekkie video as always Dan thanks looking forwards to the strip down
@@CafeRacerGarage we've got kurtis on cutting edge engineering . Amazing stuff considering the size he work with .then craig at doghouse with blue and the enfield builds and simon on quick bikes . That guys just full of giggles. If one of you has a video up ill watch but you get pride of place over sunday morning brekkie .
Nice teamwork on the motor removal, Mate. The black fingernail thing is also making a public appearance on my left thumbnail. Something about a full sheet of 1/2” ply deciding it wanted the space my finger occupied while I was looking in another direction. I did some swearing but went to confession the next day. All good now! 😎 Take care, Dan. 🏍👍🏍
dude ! when you smash your finger if you inmediately drill trough the nail with a tiny drill bit to release the blood presure I warrantee an instant releaf of pain and you may save that nail! try it ! it works!
Hello sir, I am in the process of starting a new project with an 83 cb1000c and I would like to know if it was possible to share with me how you fitted the tank on your cb750. My tank is damaged but still holds gas, but I'm having a hard time finding a replacement. I would like to know which tanks fit on the different models or at least how to find that information. By the way I love your channel.
It’s not a simple procedure to change a tank on a motorcycle you just need to make sure the tunnel is big enough and then you need to cut the front mounts and re-locate them to the height that you need and also the rear mount needs to be relocated to suit your motorcycle. I hope that helps
Dan, you thought getting the engine out was the hard part. Just wait until you've painted the frame and then try to get your engine back in. Back in the dark ages I had the frame of my 750 Tiger stove enamelled, think powder coating but 2-3mm thicker. Those couple of mm made it harder to muscle the engine in and it didn't take much to chip the frame. Blood, sweat, tears, and a couple of finger nails for good measure. Your engine has come up well, looking forward to seeing how your finger nail holds out in the next instalment, I'm afraid to say, but you may loose it mate.
Hey brother you are 100% right and we even mention this after we got it out. I think I will do it a different way on the way back in, and try and use some protective tape on the frame. The fingernail is holding up for now but I guess time will tell 😮
Hello Dan! I have a question about that sound that you have in your CB750 engine. I have the same sound and my 750 do you already know where the sound came from? Do you think that it is the cam chain?
Hope your nail comes off completely, i recently did the opposite finger but only half went black & came off. It's still catching my gloves every time. Are you sure they didn't build the frame around the engine at production : )
Hey Dan, that engine is looking well cool. I'd have been too nervous to blast the engine whole and would have waited til the strip down before blasting to prevent any media getting into areas where it shouldn't be. Love your vapor blaster, what is the air consumption? Great videos.
My compressor is 17cfm but you needs around 15-20 for a blaster like this or you will be standing around waiting more than blasting If you know what I mean
What ever you do DO NOT blast the carburettors. If you feel the need, use wet soda blasting since that will at least disolve in plain water. Sand, oxide, glass wont disolve. As you say in the end, you will pull the engine apart but there are hundreds of places one doesnt even think of looking where blasting media can cause a world of pain further down the road.
You are 100% right you do have to be very careful and make sure you flush everything. I also have a ultrasonic cleaner that gets into the places you can’t see. One trick that I’ve learnt is to let everything dry out and then hit it with high-pressure air. If you do this over a couple of days it seems to help a lot. Like you said it’s a dangerous game that could cost you a lot of money if you’re not careful.
I would love you see anyone try that with this engine. I not a weak guy but it’s not about strength, it’s about manoeuvring it around the frame. As I mentioned in the video.
![Lp. Сердце Вселенной #60 РОЖДЕНИЕ ЛОЛОЛОШКИ [Финал] • Майнкрафт](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/YoR0pAV9FVQ/mqdefault.jpg)
I’ve removed and replaced a couple of RC42 engines. Lying on its side and lifting the frame off is simpler as you’re not lifting 80kg but main tip is to remove the sump/oil pan as that gives you the little bit of extra clearance needed to make it easy. Obviously you could get the same clearance advantage by removing the head but that’s a bigger job.
100 % I thought that was going to me my next step but it worked in the end. It’s getting her back in that will be fun
I've removed and replaced my RC42 engine and completely agree, lifting the frame over the engine is definitely the easiest method. No need to take off the sump, just direct the sump into the frame first and then rotate the frame over the engine. Take the engine mounts out of the frame and replace them when the engine is in position 👍
Dan that vapor honing machine looks amazing. Looking forward to the engine re-build videos I will be doing the same in a month or two. Thanks for the shout out.
I will hopefully get to it soon :) May been to break the videos up into parts as I think parts can take a long time from Japan and it will help me do it in sections
@@CafeRacerGarage Yeah Dan good idea on a series of videos. FYI there is an ebay business (QLD based as well from memory) that sells a-lot of Japanese bike parts. I had trouble finding the matching alternator chain with OEM part number for my bike (no longer in production). If you have issues let me know I was referred to a knight hawk alternator chain (in the US) the same fit dimensions as the OEM for my model tired and tested by a few guys I am in contact with. Arrived in approx 5 days.
Looking good Dan 👍🏼👍🏼 I know it’s gonna be fantastic looking after it’s all put back together and painted.
That’s going to be a nice clean build once you’re done. Nice work
Thank you mate :)
I took out my engine (rc42) myself with the bike standing on the center stand on the floor. I used a jack under the engine and tilted it out to the left. Then I used raw arm strength and lifted it out myself. The engine without any oil, carburetors and oil cooler weighed 78kg! 😓
Looks like I'll be doing something similar for my 650 eninge... perfect timing for this video
That’s awesome dude :) hope this was helpful for you
Awesome nugget of info with that alternator rotor play, thanks for sharing!
Something bout doors slaming on fingers brings out the brightest of languages
Not wrong 😑
Great video Dan!
Dude, you are the best! Regards!
Thanks so much brother
You can use hold tite 102 to keep the flash rust from occurring. Just add to your water if its closed loop. If open loop then use a reservoir and a pump if the honer doesnt have a built in pump to draw water in to start with(not the high pressure recirc pump).
I have found that for me it seems easier to pull the wheels and remove the frame from the engine while its laying down. I can do that without help and people are unreliable so it almost seems easier.🤷🏻♂️
That was my next step for sure if I didn’t get help :)
Tight! Looks mint.
Well that's answered a question for me seeing you both struggling to get the lump out .. I've got the same issue of having to remove 1 from my trike ..great brekkie video as always Dan thanks looking forwards to the strip down
Haha glad to make it for breakfast again :). What other channels keep you entertained?
@@CafeRacerGarage we've got kurtis on cutting edge engineering . Amazing stuff considering the size he work with .then craig at doghouse with blue and the enfield builds and simon on quick bikes . That guys just full of giggles. If one of you has a video up ill watch but you get pride of place over sunday morning brekkie .
Did not know u can throw in the hole engine like that very Kool bro
Neither did I but its done now so fingers crossed it’s ok
Nice teamwork on the motor removal, Mate. The black fingernail thing is also making a public appearance on my left thumbnail. Something about a full sheet of 1/2” ply deciding it wanted the space my finger occupied while I was looking in another direction. I did some swearing but went to confession the next day. All good now! 😎 Take care, Dan.
🏍👍🏍
Thanks brother and yes it’s definitely one of those things that doesn’t tickle
@@CafeRacerGarage yessir. 😎
dude ! when you smash your finger if you inmediately drill trough the nail with a tiny drill bit to release the blood presure I warrantee an instant releaf of pain and you may save that nail! try it ! it works!
ua-cam.com/video/Q4nWDbGVUig/v-deo.html
Thank you brother
Beautiful end result
Thank you mate :) was a learning experience for me too :)
Hello sir, I am in the process of starting a new project with an 83 cb1000c and I would like to know if it was possible to share with me how you fitted the tank on your cb750. My tank is damaged but still holds gas, but I'm having a hard time finding a replacement. I would like to know which tanks fit on the different models or at least how to find that information. By the way I love your channel.
It’s not a simple procedure to change a tank on a motorcycle you just need to make sure the tunnel is big enough and then you need to cut the front mounts and re-locate them to the height that you need and also the rear mount needs to be relocated to suit your motorcycle. I hope that helps
Hey Dan how much media (quality) do you put in your machine. Mines a 1215 Vixen and I run 40kg for the size of it. Cheers.
Dan, you thought getting the engine out was the hard part. Just wait until you've painted the frame and then try to get your engine back in. Back in the dark ages I had the frame of my 750 Tiger stove enamelled, think powder coating but 2-3mm thicker. Those couple of mm made it harder to muscle the engine in and it didn't take much to chip the frame. Blood, sweat, tears, and a couple of finger nails for good measure. Your engine has come up well, looking forward to seeing how your finger nail holds out in the next instalment, I'm afraid to say, but you may loose it mate.
Hey brother you are 100% right and we even mention this after we got it out. I think I will do it a different way on the way back in, and try and use some protective tape on the frame.
The fingernail is holding up for now but I guess time will tell 😮
Amazing!
Hello Dan! I have a question about that sound that you have in your CB750 engine. I have the same sound and my 750 do you already know where the sound came from? Do you think that it is the cam chain?
As far as I’m aware it is actually the alternator chain tensioner which means the engine needs to come apart to get it out
Hi Dan are you doing vapour blasting for customers?
Hi mate, just send me a pm or email with what you are wanting blasted
@@CafeRacerGarage will do
Wish u soon recovery for your finger 👍
Hi Dan , engine looking great , that vapor blaster worth the money . One question < did you put a 120/80/18 rear tyre on the cb750 ? thanks , Gus
It sure is and I’m hoping to use it more to show you what else it can do. My cb750 has this configuration: Front 130/70/17
Rear 150/70/17
Hope your nail comes off completely, i recently did the opposite finger but only half went black & came off. It's still catching my gloves every time. Are you sure they didn't build the frame around the engine at production : )
At some point I actually thought they did build it that way lol 😂.
Yes not sure about the nail but time will tell. Hope yours grows back fast
How much does a 400 CB engine cost?
Hey Dan, that engine is looking well cool. I'd have been too nervous to blast the engine whole and would have waited til the strip down before blasting to prevent any media getting into areas where it shouldn't be. Love your vapor blaster, what is the air consumption? Great videos.
My compressor is 17cfm but you needs around 15-20 for a blaster like this or you will be standing around waiting more than blasting If you know what I mean
Hello
What ever you do DO NOT blast the carburettors. If you feel the need, use wet soda blasting since that will at least disolve in plain water. Sand, oxide, glass wont disolve. As you say in the end, you will pull the engine apart but there are hundreds of places one doesnt even think of looking where blasting media can cause a world of pain further down the road.
You are 100% right you do have to be very careful and make sure you flush everything. I also have a ultrasonic cleaner that gets into the places you can’t see. One trick that I’ve learnt is to let everything dry out and then hit it with high-pressure air. If you do this over a couple of days it seems to help a lot. Like you said it’s a dangerous game that could cost you a lot of money if you’re not careful.
Можно было сухим льдом, криогенная чистка
Funny I just straddled my bike lifted mine on out of sat it on the ground by myself, people make things more complicated than they have to be.
I would love you see anyone try that with this engine. I not a weak guy but it’s not about strength, it’s about manoeuvring it around the frame. As I mentioned in the video.
In one breath you said it was really hard plastic then the next breath you said it broke it's really brittle
You need a small displacement bike dude
Oh the feelings in your finger are gonna come back, but you might loose the nail
Thanks mate. It’s definitely not pretty atm