Husqvarna 350 chainsaw top tips for rebuilding and modifying
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- Опубліковано 18 жов 2024
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Disclaimer: ladies and gents, this is a CHAINSAW, working with, building and fiddling with these can KILL YOU, I am not and will not be responsible for improper technique or accidents even remotely relating to this video, please view for entertainment purposes only.
This video condenses many years of experience and experimentation. These are some important things to remember and know.
Here is the 350 thread on arboristsite:
www.arboristsit...
Its a long / old thread, and I've tried to condense the important stuff. Enjoy!
Hello! I'm a fellow Connecticutian, of the South Eastern variety. Glad to m have found your channeI. I am about to pull the trigger on a 350. The seller said ran yesterday, not so much today. He's asking 100 but I'm not so,sure its worth that. If I asked im sure you'd say it's worth what I'm willing to pay. So I won't ask.
The real reason for my comment is that I'm hoping you can clarify what you mean by squish. Thanks. Looking forward to watching more of your videos.
Squish is the distance between the piston and the top of the cylinder at top dead center.
If you are buying a 350....make sure you ask when the saw has had its last rebuild. See what he says
Awesome video, first one I've watched from you I will be checking out the rest.
Please join us live sometime...much more fun!
350 is an awesome saw.
Do you have the Husqvarna part number for the updated metal band?
I noticed the cylinder from HiWay that the cylinder wall looks like it comes up even with the base of the cylinder at the transfer ports. On the Huztl cylinder the cylinder wall is about 5/8" below the base, and then about another 1/2" to the transfer ports. I guess a semi-open port? Also on the Huztl cylinder it has removable side covers over the transfer ports for access, so at the base when I was porting mine to match the bearing cap I accidentley ground through. A very small area about 1/32" by 1/4" next to the edge of the cover plate. I'm going to try patching with JB Weld (good to 600*) and push the gasket and cover plate down over the spot. Or I guess I could weld it with some these propane aluminum welding rods???
customcutter100 jb weld is popular for grinding through....I have a 346xp cylinder comparison video somewhere that might help explain the different types of cylinders
I'm rebuilding a 345 putting new bearings and seals what's the best way to put the metal clips back on the seals
I don't have a good answer because I don't typically work with the metal clips style seals...sorry
Hey Matt, thanks so much for you video it has helped me so much! But..... I'm rebuilding a husky 350 the new piston has 2 rings ( kit was piston , rings, cylinder) I cant seem to get piston to go into the cylinder fully. I compress the rings and they slide into cylinder but it will only go in about 1/4 inch then it stops and gets stuck. Any thoughts?
Gotta find out what the ring is getting stuck on. You can remove a ring from the piston and put the bare ring in the head and see what it hangs on
I just bought a good running stock one from 1998 very good shape but bar was burned off from trying to cut stumps with it… after seeing all this im going to have to go look these things over kinda annoying but oh well i am not going to tear it down to seal all these spots up until it decides to chew the piston up then i will rebuild it properly with all this involved. But also built with a big bore kit too next time.
Up to you....but with known issues I'd rebuild it immediately. That's just how I approach stuff like this. Best of luck with the saw.
Matt, I haven't been to figure out what is going on with my model 350. The saw will start when it is cold. It will run in the high speed mode. It will die when allowed to drop to idle. When you try to restart, it will not start. If you let it cool down it will start. What should I do to correct it.
Whats the compression and when was it last rebuilt? Does it have the metal intake clamp?
@@matthewolson8875 2 weeks. I changed out ring, gasket head to base, never removed main bearings. Only removed the cylinder. New carb. Metal intake clamp yes. Pulse tube is new. New fuel hose, new tank vent. L setting was 11/2 turns, H setting was .75 (per Husqvarna manual). Husqvarna is says to change the H setting to 2. I haven't tried it yet. (T) was not changed from what it was when I received it. I am wondering why it won't start after it heats up. I have duplicated the above. It will start when cold.
@@johnhottenrott5574 oem carb?
@@johnhottenrott5574 often there is an air leak between the base and the case.
I know this is a older video. Just from what I've found in rebuilding old poulan clamshells I've used both 1184 and permitex ultra blackasket maker and the ultra black seems to be better because of it being thicker and not as thin I would recommend both and ultra black for a clamshell over 1184 becauseof the thicker gasket maker material. Don't get me wrong 1184 is a damn good sealant and works just as good if not better. For someone who hasn't ever used 1184 and is rebuilding a clammy style saw I would recommend ultra black over 1184 because 1184 seems to be a tedious gasket sealer.
Thanks!
Your welcome and another not for clam shells not sure if you know it is good to leave the bolts slightly loose to allow about a .015 gap of sealant and let sit for no more then 15 minutes before you tighten them up. That is what seems to work best for me I ruined about 5 new cylinders to figure out I didnt have a thick enough sealer between the base cap and cylinder an it would leak every time first couple worse then the last 3 cylinders. The first 5 was 1184 the last 3 was ultra black. 4 of those cylinders died because of scoring and not being a clean reassemble. Hey I was learning, the hard way... now I have 2. The first one is a full Chinese everything seems to be a good set of bearings and crank in a engine housing my father had gotten a couple of days before I was born. The other is a 220 antivibe that I just put a ring in new carb new crank bearings with seals because replacing those that has new seals already installed on them is alot easier. I did the same to a old craftsman 42cc new ring crank bearings and seals and new carb and it's still running as of today.
@@rncboy2 gotta check that the mating surfaces are flat too. That's another issue I've found
Yes yes you do I forgot to mention that. Those style where the plastic housing is what it seals to tends to warp after a bit of rebuilds. Still very good saws and will last a long time personally wouldnt mind building one myself
Hi Matt. Thanks for the video. I bought a pretty descent 350 for $25 at a garage sale. After replacing a couple of missing parts and changing the diaphragm, it starts but dies. It's obviously lean with an air leak. I'm going to reseal the crankcase and replace the plastic clamp. Is it worth replacing the crank seals at the same time? Are there aftermarket seals that are good quality that you recommend?
the crank seal are integral with the bearings.... sorta lol. and yes, I would replace them with oem parts. the bearing/seal combo's are available. these saws (like many others) are not worth fiddling around with unless you are doing a full teardown. after you do the teardown these things haul :)
Do you have a video on installing metal clamp on intake carburator boot?
That's in my pile of vids somewhere.... I don't know if I have a specific vid for that but it's in my bolt for bolt vids for sure
Great info
Thanks!
Hi Matt,
What do you charge to rebuild a husky 350
Thanks
Ronnie
I'm not taking on work right now...but labor should be a few hundred bux plus parts. It usually isn't worth rebuilding these unless you do it yourself. Which is why I have vids...to help the diyers :)
Waoo modification if you are engineer right, make sure what do you do because can burn easily.
Amazing
Good video, bud! Thanks for sharing your tips. Your camera and lighting look good too... I tried a couple and my videos looked aweful ... Hands shake to much... It bothers me watching so I'm sure I'd get fifty million negative jackwagons busting my stones. I really need to get more degree wheel study under my belt so I can get into those transfers... I got plenty of time the only little 90% I saw that looks like it could work for me is almost $400 bucks.... I'm a hobby guy... Not a pro... Great video, again, thanks!
Welcome! Glad you enjoyed it!
I got one of these damn saws right now. I went through it resealed the whole lower end because of an air leak. Now I get it back together do a pressure vac test. It passes with flying colors put the carb and muffler back on it and run it and it runs like it’s got a air leak. I don’t know what the Hells going on.
Replace the carb.....new carb helps. Then the coil. Carbs and coils are issues
@@matthewolson8875 thanks for the tip, Matt. Do you know of a model number for a bigger carburetor for the 350 while I’m in there?
@@mikefriesdrums el42 I think
Скажыте можно ли установить цылиндр на 350 хуз от 346xp?
I cant understand your language...sorry.
Great video!! Great information!! Thank you
Welcome!
I enjoyed it, well done. 👍👍
am I a top notch guy yet? :)
Matthew Olson Your definitely a Premium guy top notch, extra notchey.
STEVE ROB just checking :)
Thanks . Good video. I'm the one who was messaging you
Welcome!
That muffler bracket needs to be cut down on the 340 too.
I have a Husqvarna 350. Not sure how old it is. I am the second owner. I suspect that it has not really been used a lot. It runs and starts great. I am, however, concerned about it and how to keep it that way. Muffler has never gotten loose. It has the plastic clamp on the intake and I have never checked the screws on the bottom. I have two other saws I can run, so, I guess I could tear the old girl down, clean her up and make the upgrades and check the screws. Is it worth it to do all this to a perfectly fine running saw?
I think so....yes. others might disagree but because of the known issues and the age of the saw....I would tear it down. Thanks for the comment
Great info, thank you
Welcome!
Just got my Huztl 350 big bore kit the other day. I've checked the squish and I'm at .050" with no gasket. I've got a lathe and a mill, so I can either lower the bearing cap on the mill or lower the cylinder on the lathe. I'm thinking it would be better to lower the bearing cap, because if I lower the base of the cylinder that will effect the timing on all of the ports. Is this correct, or does it matter either way? thanks, Ken
PS waiting to finish this repair before ordering my Huztl 372 kit, your channel and fleetcommand are too addicting....
customcutter100 hehe. ..the adjustment will affect port timing either way. I like milling the bearing cap. ...but that's just me
Thanks, this saw ate itself due to a plastic intake clip that broke or distorted. I tried to get the bearing cap loose yesterday, but no luck so far. I guess I'll try a jack bolt under the crackshaft to push up on the crankshaft and down on the side of the housing with unless I see another simple leverage point.
customcutter100 flywheel side...intake side corner. Lift up with a big screwdriver
glad I got the bearing cap off. I thought the bearings were good to go, seals looked good and there was absolutely no play. However, when I pulled the bearing cap, and inspected the bearings one was froze up from debris from the piston where it was scouring on the piston wall. Going to be fun getting all this white goop off of the chassis....
customcutter100 take your time....it's worth it :)
Damm no wonder Iam having troubles w my carb the clamp I did reversed.
Loctite isnt heat resisant and will fail at the temperatures the saw runs
Assuming the bolts are in a part of the head that gets hot... the crankcase doesn't nearly reach temps that the top of the head reaches....
Am I a fool for trying to assemble a 350 intake boot without applying sealant to the boot the carb flange and where the boot meets the cylinder? I have a new boot new updated oem partition and steel clamp and I cannot get the damn thing to seal. I’ve had it apart about 15 times now I’m not even joking. Tomorrow I’m going to take it apart and three bond everything, put it together and let it set overnight. If it still leaks air I’m sorry I’m going to smash it with a sledge hammer.
I like loctite 518 to seal it. Where's it leaking? The impulse nipple most often gets pinched. Sometimes I grind on the cylinder where it receives the nipple to create a bevel so the nipple seats better and doesn't snag. Also.... you should be able to seat the rubber part first then bring the plastic housing over it....that can help too.
@@matthewolson8875 it must be leaking around that impulse nipple. It’s been so frustrating! I bet they’re awesome saws when they’re finally sealed up. I’m so sick of working on this thing I feel like an idiot. If I start it and give it a tiny shot of brake clean on the underside of the intake boot near the carb it dies. If it’s idling and I try to adjust idle speed, just moving the carb to the side slightly by putting pressure on the idle screw with a screwdriver causes it to race up like an air leak.
@@mikefriesdrums search through my 350 vids... I've got some more recent vids that show me putting that thing on and modding it so the nipple seals and doesn't get pinched.
@@matthewolson8875 thank you for helping, I appreciate it.
I love you, in a manly man kind of way.
if there is such a thing :)