That circlip seen @6:14 : I guess you need to remove the old one of those before you get to 4:15. I can imagine that might not be easy. Edit : I've done the job now and there was no original circlip, just the top lip peened over in two places, easy to chisel back. But I couldn't manage to press the new one in with the CV joint in the way like 6:00. Depends on the press tool I suppose. So I withdrew the drive shafts, not right out, but enough to get the thin part of the shaft opposite the press tool. Also, my circlip was almost 360 degrees, not like 6:14, but the wishbone casting partly obstructs the groove in the inboard area. So my circlip is only in over 75% of the circumference.
My original lower ball joint studs had no anti-turn hexagon on the end. I made the mistake of splitting the joint after only backing the nut a few turns. I then couldn't undo the nut as it was stiff on the stud and just turned it! I did manage to do it up again (hard) and could then undo it fully, but then had to split the joint again. Moral is: undo nut fully first, then replace it (oiled) with only a few turns before splitting.
Have a question bout my 2007 jeep grand cherokee limited 4x4. What could cause it to pull to the right? Went to get alignment an they said it didn't need one once they hooked it up.
A pull can be caused by a number of things. A worn tire, an under inflated tire, a brake caliber that’s hanging up, a seized ball joint and the list goes on. Does it only pull when braking? Does it only pull after you have turned to the right, the straighten out when you turn left. Could also be a tie rod end. Hope that helps and thanks for the question.
I am the original owner of a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with 154K miles. I've never replaced the front ball joints so it is time. I thought that the lower ball joints were part of the lower control arm requiring me to replace the whole control arm? From the video, it appears that you were able to replace the lower ball joints without replacing the whole control arm? Do you have to use a special tool to separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm?
If it’s a press in type of ball joint you can for sure do them with the arms still in. I’ve seen some that are a solid piece and some that are press in. Thanks for the comment!
Got a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that needs all 4 ball joints replaced. Been calling local auto repair shops and they are charging between $700 and $1200 for (ball joints, labor and alignment required) But when I looked online a set of 4 ball joints kit is $100-$120. Online on mechanic sites they estimate it should coat $300 for the replacement. What does everyone think a reasonable price would be for ball joints replaced? I have $500 to spend but would like to get my WI dows fixed too
2wd is usually easier because there is more room. The front CV shaft or axle is not in the way. So to answer your question yes 4x4 is harder. Thanks for the comment. Any other questions feel free.
I don't think 4x4 is much harder. I have done a 4x4 (not a 2x4) and the drive shaft is easily kept out of the way. But unlike @4:10 I removed the front bearing from the knuckle before I took the knuckle off, makes it a bit easier as long as the bearing comes off the knuckle without a fight. I had another reason for doing that - to repaint that thin dust shield that was going rusty.
What was the point of loosening the upper control arm balljoint? I have to do lower control arm balljoints. Brand new Moog lower control arms but their balljoints ripped on both sides after a few hundred miles, passenger and driver. Garbage quality. Gotta research brands now and reviews to avoid another headache.
Hey, dude, like Ya`r videos! As happY owner of Jeep GC I would like to see how to change (replace) turbocharger lower intake pipe (comes from intercooler). Dude, i`d like to remove those resonator from whole airway
Great video. Just the stuff we need and nothing more. Thanks for posting.
Amen to that
Very well presented and very clear ,wish every site was so good ,thank you
Thanks and your welcome glad it helped.
Buen trabajo amigo, gracias por compartir 👍🏼💯👈🏼
That circlip seen @6:14 : I guess you need to remove the old one of those before you get to 4:15. I can imagine that might not be easy.
Edit : I've done the job now and there was no original circlip, just the top lip peened over in two places, easy to chisel back. But I couldn't manage to press the new one in with the CV joint in the way like 6:00. Depends on the press tool I suppose. So I withdrew the drive shafts, not right out, but enough to get the thin part of the shaft opposite the press tool. Also, my circlip was almost 360 degrees, not like 6:14, but the wishbone casting partly obstructs the groove in the inboard area. So my circlip is only in over 75% of the circumference.
My original lower ball joint studs had no anti-turn hexagon on the end. I made the mistake of splitting the joint after only backing the nut a few turns. I then couldn't undo the nut as it was stiff on the stud and just turned it! I did manage to do it up again (hard) and could then undo it fully, but then had to split the joint again. Moral is: undo nut fully first, then replace it (oiled) with only a few turns before splitting.
Have a question bout my 2007 jeep grand cherokee limited 4x4. What could cause it to pull to the right? Went to get alignment an they said it didn't need one once they hooked it up.
A pull can be caused by a number of things. A worn tire, an under inflated tire, a brake caliber that’s hanging up, a seized ball joint and the list goes on. Does it only pull when braking? Does it only pull after you have turned to the right, the straighten out when you turn left. Could also be a tie rod end. Hope that helps and thanks for the question.
On the 2008 jeep grand cherokee is the lower ball joint removable or it's a part of the control arm
I am the original owner of a 2008 Jeep Grand Cherokee Overland with 154K miles. I've never replaced the front ball joints so it is time. I thought that the lower ball joints were part of the lower control arm requiring me to replace the whole control arm? From the video, it appears that you were able to replace the lower ball joints without replacing the whole control arm? Do you have to use a special tool to separate the lower ball joint from the lower control arm?
Yup you have to use a ball joint press
This is a awesome video thanks
Screamin Diesel Ltd
I see those are the Mevotec ball joints. Are they a worthy part to use. I know they are made in Canada.
I’ve had pretty good luck with them for vehicles of this size.
Do you need a wheel alignment after doing ball joints?
Not usually unless you got the adjustable ball joints.
Hi Sir, is it possible to replace the upper ball joints with out removing the upper control arms off the car?
If it’s a press in type of ball joint you can for sure do them with the arms still in. I’ve seen some that are a solid piece and some that are press in. Thanks for the comment!
What is the size of the axle nut?
Got a 2002 Jeep Grand Cherokee Laredo that needs all 4 ball joints replaced.
Been calling local auto repair shops and they are charging between $700 and $1200 for (ball joints, labor and alignment required)
But when I looked online a set of 4 ball joints kit is $100-$120.
Online on mechanic sites they estimate it should coat $300 for the replacement.
What does everyone think a reasonable price would be for ball joints replaced?
I have $500 to spend but would like to get my WI dows fixed too
I would say between 5-800 would cove all 4 with quality parts and alignment. Really depends on how it comes apart and if anything else breaks.
Is changing the lower ball joints on a 2007 Jeep Grand Cherokee 4x4 more difficult than a non four-wheel drive
2wd is usually easier because there is more room. The front CV shaft or axle is not in the way. So to answer your question yes 4x4 is harder. Thanks for the comment. Any other questions feel free.
@@screamindieselltd okay thank you I'll just bring it in I would do it myself but never worked on a 4x4
I don't think 4x4 is much harder. I have done a 4x4 (not a 2x4) and the drive shaft is easily kept out of the way. But unlike @4:10 I removed the front bearing from the knuckle before I took the knuckle off, makes it a bit easier as long as the bearing comes off the knuckle without a fight. I had another reason for doing that - to repaint that thin dust shield that was going rusty.
What was the point of loosening the upper control arm balljoint?
I have to do lower control arm balljoints. Brand new Moog lower control arms but their balljoints ripped on both sides after a few hundred miles, passenger and driver. Garbage quality.
Gotta research brands now and reviews to avoid another headache.
Hey, dude, like Ya`r videos! As happY owner of Jeep GC I would like to see how to change (replace) turbocharger lower intake pipe (comes from intercooler). Dude, i`d like to remove those resonator from whole airway
Never seen anyone that can undo caliper bolts that easily, without any tools ! Just fingers
Had them lose so the filming didn’t take as long.
Solid video
Thanks!
Muy buen video. Lo único que aca en veraguas panama no entendemos en inglés de todas maneras es muy importante el video ya sabemos como es.
Looks to me like the upper ball joint was shot also.