Unfortunately using flatshift is a bit harder on the clutch, which caused it to slip. It was only a 12.69 @ 126mph, but, for reference the 100-200km/h was only 6.71 on that run, so it's basically a throw away. The car should have no issue breaking the 130mph barrier in the quarter assuming the clutch holds on.
@@TheCarPassionChannel adjusting either the clutch grab point to be a bit lower or the position of the clutch switch could help it not to slip with FFS
@@TheJohnb35711 Most likely yes, but I've had it slip a couple times even just rolling into full boost at mid RPM. I believe the torque rating it 510lb-ft, and if that's at the crank, the motor is producing slightly more than that. I'm thinking about just upgrading the pressure plate
@@TheCarPassionChannel seems like a good call with everything apart already. i was debating saying anything since you are so methodological with all this stuff
@@hewbambam not necessarily since the clutch was acting strange and it does not make noise when the clutch is pressed the rear thrust washer would be the one that went not the front See if the front went you would be spot on correct saying extra noise would be apparent but if the rear goes when you press the clutch it would fix the sloppy tolerance and press on the front thrust washer But it’s all speculation until it’s taken apart and the problem is found
My miata is still sitting after I threw a rod bearing years ago and then swapped in an engine that had no compression in one cylinder lol so I feel this pain to some degree.
Lol me too!! Except I have since swapped that* engine, for another ... That has a bad HG leak into the cooling system. About to dig up a Gen III hemi and say f it. Already did a standalone this last go round so not hard to swap at this point
Yup! Did a 1.8 swap to replace a nuked 1.6 only to realize that the head was trash and low compression on cylinder 4. Finally found a good motor at a good price after months of looking. You’ve got this homie
On the last pull you can clearly hear increased noise on 4th gear. I don't think it is rod knock, more like main bearing knock (I had one failed me last year and it was similar noise). It may be also piston slap but I'm more on the main bearing problem. Funny think is that when main bearing spoon oil pressure dropped only by a little... Till the end I was hoping it will be simple fix 😔
If his main bearings were gone, he'd have little to no oil pressure. He does have upgraded oil pump and if it's shimmed, putting out more oil pressure flow/psi than factory then maybe he'd still have some oil pressure but you'd still see a noticeable change. It would likely be half as much as before or worst.
@@Nasonix2 like I said I had spun main bearing and the oil pressure were little lower but was still there. It may be also bend rod. We will see when he drop the oil pan.
Kinda sounds like crank walk to me. If you put the trans back in, fire it up and have someone depress the clutch while you watch the crank pulley. This is always how we did it in DSM times.
Bought a 1990 Miata and fixing all kinds of things and your videos helped me immensely in tackling the timing belt/loctite fix. I’m now dreading pulling the trans to fix a rear seal oil leak. Lol you made pulling the trans look so easy here!
A couple weeks ago I was doing pulls when I lost a bit of power and my exhaust got louder. I figured the downpipe vband got loose from the heat. I tightened it, but the power loss and noise didn't go away. Checked everything I could, compression, oil, timing, ect and second guessing myself on all of it. I was racking my head trying to figure it out until I happened to notice a bolt was missing off the back of my turbo. I have a ebay special t3/t4 internal waste gate with the 5-bolt pattern that turns into a 3" v-band. Apparently when they drilled the bolt holes, they went all the way through the housing. The bolt must've gotten hot and fell out which allowed the exhaust to bypass the turbine and the O2 sensor to misread. One trip to Ace Hardware and everything was back to normal. It doesn't sound like that's your problem, but here's to hoping your issue is an uncommon stupid simple to fix too.
@@TheCarPassionChannelit's always super interesting and honestly entertaining when you breakdown how you go about finding problems and fixing them! Hoping it's somewhat fixable, but at least she had a good run! Man those pulls were awesome!
I should add that these more in-depth videos are exactly what inspired me to work on my own car and do (and learn) maintenance myself. If you go little by little you'll get there. Really happy to have been doing a lot the work myself ever since owning my Miata! Forever grateful for that, thanks Greg!
The way we used to diagnose rod knock was while the engine is running pull a plug wire on each cylinder and see of the noise gets quieter. Obviously you would cycle this if you don't hear it change, and it'll be a little different since you have COP. But perhaps you can just kill each cylinder via the tuner.
This is perfect for rod knock. I was going to suggest it but an oil analysis will tell the story. Along with a check of endplay. You can do that with the trans off with a pry bar.
I built the same motor you did and blew it up instantly because I vapor blasted the head and the media bonded with the residual oil 😭 feel ya man, keep pushing. I built an nb1 motor in another 6 months and now she's running again! Keep it up, it's all worth it in the end!
Dude, we are here for the good times and the bad times. When you are troubleshooting, we are all troubleshooting. You have me on the edge of my seat. I feel like we've been into this journey together. Even though you are doing all the work 😆✌️
I think it could be with the hamonic balancer itself or the sensor plate behind it. I had on a truck I owned the damn bolt kept coming loose and it sounded like that.
My condolences to the bottom end dear sir. Definitely sounds like a bottom end bearing issue. Either way, considering the amount of power you were running and it lasted 15k miles consider it a good time. The next build will be even stronger. 🙌🏼
Did you try the bottom end isolation test?! Remove the top end. unplug fuel pump relay, plug oil ports, crank bottom end and listen for noise! I just made that up, but might help idk. GL homie. That doesn't not sound like rod knock or valve train. I like the crank walk theories, I just never heard crank walk before.
I'm surprised you didn't check endplay, although when my nb had a thrust bearing failure it still idled smooth, the crank moved under boost and I would lose crank sensor sync
Ugh, heartbreaker dude. I’ll keep tuning in, curious to see what you find in that engine. Sounds like a rod on my crappy phone speaker, so obviously my opinion is valid. Haha. Keep up the quality content. You’ve probably saved someone from hours of brutal work.
at least you still got compression. Sounds like a bearing. maybe thrust bearings like I seen below. I would just give the old gal a nice refresh. 15k hard miles, there isn't any shame, and its definitely part of the game. great video as always.
The worst things always happen to the best people! Great explanation in the video for each diagnostic test you did and why. To me, like some others have said, sounds like main bearings or crank walk. It gives a very similar sound to rod knock, but obviously every test you've done has exhausted that possibility. The only way I know to test for main bearings is by taking everything apart and visually inspecting them unfortunately. Every video that comes out with the red car is always exciting. Seeing this car progress over the years really brings me, and I'm sure a lot of other people motivation. Keep up the great work, keep your head up, and keep the amazing content coming. Sometimes the best things you can do is walk away from something, sleep on it, and start again with a clear mind.
Check for bent rods, if one is shorter the sound could be from the piston hitting the crank. But with drive back home I would expect it to self clearance.
Yup, this. But compression on that cylinder might be a bit different if that was the case. I bent a rod one time and it sounded just like this. It got louder and louder on the 2 mile drive home though. It was bending the rod more and more as it was put under load climbing hills and stuff. The crankshaft was eating through the piston and almost made it through to the wrist pin.
Epic build and amazing troubleshooting. I hope we're all wrong and it's a simple fix. Felt that pain throughout the video. Whatever you do next will be faster and cooler, with this nugget or another, looking forward to that!
Rod Bearings, main Bearings or thrust Bearing. Either way I think you're up for a rebuild mate. I was in Mexico the other day too....but the one in Australia 🇦🇺
Clutch fork pivot ball popped out then when you disengage the clutch causing extreme amount of pressure to the thrush washer causing thrush washer to go out and your crank to walk.? Idk but it does sound like crank walk
My guess is the thrust bearing because I heard a similar noise a few months ago. When we disassembled a engine we saw significant axial movement and high wear on the thrust bearing.
My NB2 is also making a knocking noise now, but it doesn't sound like your engine. Mine only happens above ~2k rpm, and it gets louder as the engine warms up. I'm gonna check valve lash right now to see what's up, but I'm really hoping its not a bearing in the bottom end :( I hope Lil' Red recovers fast Greg! You got this.
@@mikescherrer4923 I’m literally looking at that right now lol. The timing belt is definitely looser than it should be. So I’m trying to loosen up the tensioner bolt to re-tension the belt but I just can’t get that bolt loose. I can’t get a wrench on it enough to loosen it. I also just checked my lash and only 4 of the 16 valves are in spec 🤦♂️😭
Congrats on breaking your record! You are a madman.. I wouldn't be surprised if Greg still calculates how much he can eat each day to put maximum funding to each build/#2$jR .. awesome video, thank you
WOW! After suffering withdraw it sure was great to see a new post, but my heart broke with yours when the engine went south. I am so very sorry to see this and my heart goes out to you!!! You are a lot smarted then this OG, so I can't give any bright ideas other than the crank. Do you want to pull the oil pan off and give it a look??? Best to you,
the timingbeltcover down at the crank pulley with the numbers on it sometimes breaks due to imens heat or whatever and if its loose the timing plate hits it so the tooth of the timing plate make this weird noise at first I thougth oops vvt gone but yea the I remembered my cover was loose once and it made the exact same noise so 🙈 definitly check that
Sorry to see see your troubles Greg! If worst come to worst hopefuly kpower will hook you up with some k24z3 goodies! On anther note boy she was popping in those runs.
Though rather unfortunate, glad the car didn't have a catastrophic failure like the 1.6 My guess, like others have said, Worn thrust bearing. I'd imagine a very stiff pressure plate would increase thrust loads. To pull out an old DSM meme; "See Crank? See Crank Walk Walk Crank! Walk!"
Have you drained the oil and inspected it for metal? How about cutting open the oil filter and inspecting that? Or inspecting the screen for the vvt ocv?
I'm going with partially spun main bearing or thrust bearing issue. Super sucks, I built mine after seeing you start the vvt build. About to start the 3rd race season on the motor.
I had a similar noise from not tightening water pump pulley bolts enough. I think you would've torqued those down but is there a chance they came loose? Also worth checking any other pulley bolts like crank pulley.
It could hopefully be a main bearing issue. Also it was induced when selecting the 4th gear by the time the boost raised to 30 psi causing the engine to produce some serious amount of torque. Also the thrust bearing could be the culprit since the noise was introduced at high boost/torque conditions
Feel for you man! Although it's shit, this video was absolutely sick. Loved the in depth problem solving. If anyone can find the issue, it will be you dude.
Probably the main bearing I'd say. When my main bearings went, the car had a weird vibration and sounded a bit different as well. Especially under slight load, it was noticeable. Unless it's your oil pump about to fail but I doubt it.
After fully disassembling mine, I don't know why people say they're impossible to put back together. And I'm not trying to sound like some kind of pro, the parts are very simple, nothing spring loaded/pre loaded, etc. I will definitely make a video on it!
I would look at the thrust washers, if somehow they were to get out of their spot or start spinning I bet it would make a hell of a noise on the crank but your rod bearings would stay in place, you might be able to check play by moving the crank forwards and backwards but no guarantees on that. Next up I'd check out your oil pump. Since to say the sound is coming from near the nose of the crank. There's also main bearings like others have been saying
I'm not a specialist at all but i had some weird noises when my downpipe came loose because one bolt was missing. Maybe the turbo is not completely tight to the manifold or so. But in my case it was only hearable when the exhaust was cold. when it was warm, the sound wasnt that intense.
if the compression is right it might be thrust bearing 6puck clutches have big impact to the thrust pull and push the flywheel to check for play same thing you did with the rods. another thing if it comes from the nose you might have oil pump issue
I believe when shifted in fourth, the noise could already be heard..any sign of overboost in logs? If oil press is all good, maybe rod bent, or crankshaft play/thrust bearing issue. Once had a case of a broken thrust bearing (don't remember what car) removed serpentine belt, stuck a pry bar behind harmonic balancer and there was movement. Removing oil pan would tell more either way..
@@miatamadness9535 I see what you mean, there are many cases of bent rod, but the piston is very slightly lower for it to care, so the engine starts and runs fine with normal oil press, except for the noise. In my case the small end of a rod was kissing the crank.. Should add my rod did not bend to banana shape, but to the side, like small end was offset to big end, if that makes sense (eng. not my mother language)
The usual way is with a dial indicator, mounted to the block, and the plunger contacting something connected to the crank. And you push and pull the crank. I would want to know the depth of the travel.
Agreed. The worst is at startup when the oil pressure has not developed. A lot of people start in neutral with the clutch engaged to prevent this. This requires that the clutch switch be defeated in some way.
Stretched exhaust studs/pulled the exhaust studs out of the head is my guess. That happened to my on my 99. It sounded just like this, idled fine but exhaust was loud/had a metal rattling sound. I ended up needing to helicoil 4 or 5 of the exhaust studs and the rest were able to be tightened back down.
Sorry to see this. With headphones, the engine didn’t sound very healthy way before that last pull. I hope you figure it out and it can be repaired relatively easily. How easy is it to drop de oil pan? Can you access the main bearings with the engine in the car?
I think it’s the valves man. Since the timing belt was loose I bet it crapped up the valves somehow. One time after replacing my head gasket I tried to scape some carbon off the valves and when I did they stopped sealing properly and suddenly there was a huge loud noise that sounded like it was coming out of the exhaust side of the head and it was a terrible raspy noise. Didn’t want to fool with valves so I bought a new head slapped it on and the problem went away
I think you're referring to my old twin disc setup where the pilot bearing didn't fit right. Fortunately that is long gone and the current setup does not have that issue
If a sound is coming from crank pulley area could it be a oil pump? Gears making noise. I asume pressure is ok so no shatered gears but easy to take it and check if you havent yet.. hoping its not a bottom end!
I once had what I thought was a knock coming from my engine. I waited a couple of weeks before I could replace the rod bearings. Started the car and the noise was still there. Removed the serpentine belt and the noise went away. Turned out the bearings in the alternator failed. At least it had a new set of rod bearings 🤣
![FOR THE HATERS!! Tuning The Miata & SMASHING The Acceleration Records! [0-60mph | 100-200kph] Part 2](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/UAUlC1EzRPk/mqdefault.jpg)
How fast was that 1/4 mile pull looking to be?
Unfortunately using flatshift is a bit harder on the clutch, which caused it to slip. It was only a 12.69 @ 126mph, but, for reference the 100-200km/h was only 6.71 on that run, so it's basically a throw away. The car should have no issue breaking the 130mph barrier in the quarter assuming the clutch holds on.
@@TheCarPassionChannel adjusting either the clutch grab point to be a bit lower or the position of the clutch switch could help it not to slip with FFS
@@TheJohnb35711 Most likely yes, but I've had it slip a couple times even just rolling into full boost at mid RPM. I believe the torque rating it 510lb-ft, and if that's at the crank, the motor is producing slightly more than that. I'm thinking about just upgrading the pressure plate
@@TheCarPassionChannel seems like a good call with everything apart already. i was debating saying anything since you are so methodological with all this stuff
Exhaust leak at the manifold ? Loose crank pulley ?
Thank you Mexico for providing these proving grounds
It tis the way when you are forging new territory.
If it's not the rod bearing and the noise is coming from upfront, maybe the oil pump?
As a Mexican, your welcome :)
Is there no speed limit in Mexico? Seems that youre setting yourself up driving like that in a country where corruption is so rampant.
@@andyanderson7712 yeah def DONT get pulled over in Mexico. Unless you have a wad of cash.
"-And everything went okay until!... Nah just kidding." BOYYYYY You had me lol
19:47 Crank walk/thrust bearing
Good guess Senjougahara san. That would also explain the "clutch slip"...
@@R3IMU @TheCarPassionChannel I dont know if you get notifications from replies to comments but this man makes a good point
My guess too!
@@R3IMU why it would explain clutch slip? I would say rather the effect would be no clutch disengagement rather than slip.
@@kitastan it depends on which way the crank walks right? If it goes forward the clutch will slip
I’m going with thrust bearing failure.
Highly unlikely to be rod or crank bearing since the car made it home with out a problem
That was my thought as well 👍
If it were a thrust bearing it would change when the clutch were pushed in
@@hewbambam not necessarily since the clutch was acting strange and it does not make noise when the clutch is pressed the rear thrust washer would be the one that went not the front
See if the front went you would be spot on correct saying extra noise would be apparent but if the rear goes when you press the clutch it would fix the sloppy tolerance and press on the front thrust washer
But it’s all speculation until it’s taken apart and the problem is found
My miata is still sitting after I threw a rod bearing years ago and then swapped in an engine that had no compression in one cylinder lol so I feel this pain to some degree.
Lol me too!! Except I have since swapped that* engine, for another ... That has a bad HG leak into the cooling system. About to dig up a Gen III hemi and say f it. Already did a standalone this last go round so not hard to swap at this point
Yup! Did a 1.8 swap to replace a nuked 1.6 only to realize that the head was trash and low compression on cylinder 4. Finally found a good motor at a good price after months of looking. You’ve got this homie
On the last pull you can clearly hear increased noise on 4th gear. I don't think it is rod knock, more like main bearing knock (I had one failed me last year and it was similar noise). It may be also piston slap but I'm more on the main bearing problem. Funny think is that when main bearing spoon oil pressure dropped only by a little... Till the end I was hoping it will be simple fix 😔
If his main bearings were gone, he'd have little to no oil pressure. He does have upgraded oil pump and if it's shimmed, putting out more oil pressure flow/psi than factory then maybe he'd still have some oil pressure but you'd still see a noticeable change. It would likely be half as much as before or worst.
@@Nasonix2 like I said I had spun main bearing and the oil pressure were little lower but was still there. It may be also bend rod. We will see when he drop the oil pan.
Kinda sounds like crank walk to me. If you put the trans back in, fire it up and have someone depress the clutch while you watch the crank pulley. This is always how we did it in DSM times.
or just push/pull on the flywheel.
Bought a 1990 Miata and fixing all kinds of things and your videos helped me immensely in tackling the timing belt/loctite fix. I’m now dreading pulling the trans to fix a rear seal oil leak. Lol you made pulling the trans look so easy here!
The Trans on the miata is easy it takes about 3 hrs to pull out replace the clutch and rear main seal and put it back together
A couple weeks ago I was doing pulls when I lost a bit of power and my exhaust got louder. I figured the downpipe vband got loose from the heat. I tightened it, but the power loss and noise didn't go away. Checked everything I could, compression, oil, timing, ect and second guessing myself on all of it. I was racking my head trying to figure it out until I happened to notice a bolt was missing off the back of my turbo. I have a ebay special t3/t4 internal waste gate with the 5-bolt pattern that turns into a 3" v-band. Apparently when they drilled the bolt holes, they went all the way through the housing. The bolt must've gotten hot and fell out which allowed the exhaust to bypass the turbine and the O2 sensor to misread. One trip to Ace Hardware and everything was back to normal. It doesn't sound like that's your problem, but here's to hoping your issue is an uncommon stupid simple to fix too.
I'm going with crank walk/thrust bearing.
Sounds like thrust bearing too me. Might be worth tapering in that 30psi 😂
Man, I wish I lived next to a guy like you. So much Miata knowledge. Thank you for the great content 🙏 😀
Amazing diagnostic and your explanation through it. Looking forward for more in depth video and when you'll find out what has happened :D
I was hoping someone would appreciate it and that it wasn't too boring!
@@TheCarPassionChannelit's always super interesting and honestly entertaining when you breakdown how you go about finding problems and fixing them!
Hoping it's somewhat fixable, but at least she had a good run! Man those pulls were awesome!
I should add that these more in-depth videos are exactly what inspired me to work on my own car and do (and learn) maintenance myself. If you go little by little you'll get there. Really happy to have been doing a lot the work myself ever since owning my Miata! Forever grateful for that, thanks Greg!
Thank you for the thorough diagnostics and explanations
The way we used to diagnose rod knock was while the engine is running pull a plug wire on each cylinder and see of the noise gets quieter. Obviously you would cycle this if you don't hear it change, and it'll be a little different since you have COP. But perhaps you can just kill each cylinder via the tuner.
This is perfect for rod knock. I was going to suggest it but an oil analysis will tell the story. Along with a check of endplay. You can do that with the trans off with a pry bar.
Just thinking how beneficial this video is to all the new people wanting to build turbo miats. Great Video!
I built the same motor you did and blew it up instantly because I vapor blasted the head and the media bonded with the residual oil 😭 feel ya man, keep pushing. I built an nb1 motor in another 6 months and now she's running again! Keep it up, it's all worth it in the end!
Aw hell yea, miata monday
Edit: big sad on the engine issues, hopefully it turns out to be something easy to diagnose and fix
Dude, we are here for the good times and the bad times. When you are troubleshooting, we are all troubleshooting. You have me on the edge of my seat.
I feel like we've been into this journey together. Even though you are doing all the work 😆✌️
I’m sure whatever it ends up being, you’ll figure it out and share the knowledge. Mahalo for all you do!
I think it could be with the hamonic balancer itself or the sensor plate behind it. I had on a truck I owned the damn bolt kept coming loose and it sounded like that.
My condolences to the bottom end dear sir. Definitely sounds like a bottom end bearing issue. Either way, considering the amount of power you were running and it lasted 15k miles consider it a good time. The next build will be even stronger. 🙌🏼
Did you try the bottom end isolation test?! Remove the top end. unplug fuel pump relay, plug oil ports, crank bottom end and listen for noise! I just made that up, but might help idk. GL homie. That doesn't not sound like rod knock or valve train. I like the crank walk theories, I just never heard crank walk before.
I'm surprised you didn't check endplay, although when my nb had a thrust bearing failure it still idled smooth, the crank moved under boost and I would lose crank sensor sync
It sounds like either thrust clearance or main bearing failure. This man out here finding the limits of the block.
Ugh, heartbreaker dude.
I’ll keep tuning in, curious to see what you find in that engine. Sounds like a rod on my crappy phone speaker, so obviously my opinion is valid. Haha.
Keep up the quality content. You’ve probably saved someone from hours of brutal work.
at least you still got compression. Sounds like a bearing. maybe thrust bearings like I seen below. I would just give the old gal a nice refresh. 15k hard miles, there isn't any shame, and its definitely part of the game. great video as always.
The worst things always happen to the best people!
Great explanation in the video for each diagnostic test you did and why. To me, like some others have said, sounds like main bearings or crank walk. It gives a very similar sound to rod knock, but obviously every test you've done has exhausted that possibility. The only way I know to test for main bearings is by taking everything apart and visually inspecting them unfortunately. Every video that comes out with the red car is always exciting. Seeing this car progress over the years really brings me, and I'm sure a lot of other people motivation. Keep up the great work, keep your head up, and keep the amazing content coming. Sometimes the best things you can do is walk away from something, sleep on it, and start again with a clear mind.
Check for bent rods, if one is shorter the sound could be from the piston hitting the crank. But with drive back home I would expect it to self clearance.
Yup, this. But compression on that cylinder might be a bit different if that was the case. I bent a rod one time and it sounded just like this. It got louder and louder on the 2 mile drive home though. It was bending the rod more and more as it was put under load climbing hills and stuff. The crankshaft was eating through the piston and almost made it through to the wrist pin.
Hell yeah. Love these testing videos, Greg.
Ah man, such a bummer! Thanks for showing us your diagnostic process.
Epic build and amazing troubleshooting. I hope we're all wrong and it's a simple fix. Felt that pain throughout the video. Whatever you do next will be faster and cooler, with this nugget or another, looking forward to that!
Sucks that this happened but this makes for such good content.
K24 build? :p
Rod Bearings, main Bearings or thrust Bearing. Either way I think you're up for a rebuild mate. I was in Mexico the other day too....but the one in Australia 🇦🇺
Lmaooo the Australian Mexico is another hot spot
check for end play/crank walk, thats what took out my first built motor, crank was contacting the main caps and wearing it down
Clutch fork pivot ball popped out then when you disengage the clutch causing extreme amount of pressure to the thrush washer causing thrush washer to go out and your crank to walk.? Idk but it does sound like crank walk
Love ya boi, good luck with the motor I’m really pulling for you (in my ND)
Best of luck problem solving this one, hate this happened so soon. But tis the game of high horsepower.
My guess is the thrust bearing because I heard a similar noise a few months ago. When we disassembled a engine we saw significant axial movement and high wear on the thrust bearing.
My NB2 is also making a knocking noise now, but it doesn't sound like your engine. Mine only happens above ~2k rpm, and it gets louder as the engine warms up. I'm gonna check valve lash right now to see what's up, but I'm really hoping its not a bearing in the bottom end :(
I hope Lil' Red recovers fast Greg! You got this.
timing tensioner?
@@mikescherrer4923 I’m literally looking at that right now lol. The timing belt is definitely looser than it should be. So I’m trying to loosen up the tensioner bolt to re-tension the belt but I just can’t get that bolt loose. I can’t get a wrench on it enough to loosen it. I also just checked my lash and only 4 of the 16 valves are in spec 🤦♂️😭
Congrats on breaking your record! You are a madman.. I wouldn't be surprised if Greg still calculates how much he can eat each day to put maximum funding to each build/#2$jR .. awesome video, thank you
WOW! After suffering withdraw it sure was great to see a new post, but my heart broke with yours when the engine went south. I am so very sorry to see this and my heart goes out to you!!! You are a lot smarted then this OG, so I can't give any bright ideas other than the crank. Do you want to pull the oil pan off and give it a look??? Best to you,
Can you take the plugs back out and measure piston travel? Bent rod?
the timingbeltcover down at the crank pulley with the numbers on it sometimes breaks due to imens heat or whatever and if its loose the timing plate hits it so the tooth of the timing plate make this weird noise at first I thougth oops vvt gone but yea the I remembered my cover was loose once and it made the exact same noise so 🙈 definitly check that
Sorry to see see your troubles Greg! If worst come to worst hopefuly kpower will hook you up with some k24z3 goodies! On anther note boy she was popping in those runs.
I had some art of this sound on my stock MX5 1.8 in my case it comes from the 3 bolts fot the whaterpump wheel they where losen.
Though rather unfortunate, glad the car didn't have a catastrophic failure like the 1.6
My guess, like others have said, Worn thrust bearing. I'd imagine a very stiff pressure plate would increase thrust loads.
To pull out an old DSM meme;
"See Crank?
See Crank Walk
Walk Crank! Walk!"
Thrust bearings, order new, most expensive, highest quality you can find, and send main crank for balance and polishing.
Have you drained the oil and inspected it for metal? How about cutting open the oil filter and inspecting that? Or inspecting the screen for the vvt ocv?
I'm going with partially spun main bearing or thrust bearing issue. Super sucks, I built mine after seeing you start the vvt build. About to start the 3rd race season on the motor.
This channel is underrated
I'm in the rebuild stage. Mine ate an exhaust valve. Sorry to hear about your motor man.
What's were the results of draining the oil and seeing if there was metal?
Maybe try some Thicc Lucas oil :)
But seriously the crank movement seems the most likely.
Thank you Greg for all the great videos. I have learned a lot from these over the years. Hope you will find the problem!
Glad you made it home.
Could it be the front crank bearing ? Or the fluid damper that seen better days and Is throwing the crank out of balance?
I had a similar noise from not tightening water pump pulley bolts enough. I think you would've torqued those down but is there a chance they came loose? Also worth checking any other pulley bolts like crank pulley.
It could hopefully be a main bearing issue. Also it was induced when selecting the 4th gear by the time the boost raised to 30 psi causing the engine to produce some serious amount of torque. Also the thrust bearing could be the culprit since the noise was introduced at high boost/torque conditions
Feel for you man! Although it's shit, this video was absolutely sick. Loved the in depth problem solving. If anyone can find the issue, it will be you dude.
Check thrust and see if there is back and fourth play in crank
Easy job with either shims or a dial indicator to measure.
Probably the main bearing I'd say. When my main bearings went, the car had a weird vibration and sounded a bit different as well. Especially under slight load, it was noticeable. Unless it's your oil pump about to fail but I doubt it.
He'd have a noticeable drop in oil pressure if it was main bearing
@@Nasonix2 Maybe. Mine was not very noticeable if at all. And it was all the main bearings that were worn. Not spun though.
Check for in and out crank play
Check your alternator, my scion made the same noise
I had my timing skip a tooth once, sounded similar. I didn't tighten the belt correctly.
How’s the oil pressure
Could also be a main
Agreed. Bad bearings do not hold pressure well.
2.0 Fe3 swap. Mazda's version of the 4G63. Basically a big block BP. Holds 400hp with stock internals.
Can you make a VVT actuator rebuild video?? From what I have read online, its almost impossible to service them!
After fully disassembling mine, I don't know why people say they're impossible to put back together. And I'm not trying to sound like some kind of pro, the parts are very simple, nothing spring loaded/pre loaded, etc. I will definitely make a video on it!
Did you ever drain the oil to check for shimmer?
Maybe bent rod? Piston hitting the crank counter weights
I would look at the thrust washers, if somehow they were to get out of their spot or start spinning I bet it would make a hell of a noise on the crank but your rod bearings would stay in place, you might be able to check play by moving the crank forwards and backwards but no guarantees on that. Next up I'd check out your oil pump. Since to say the sound is coming from near the nose of the crank. There's also main bearings like others have been saying
I'm not a specialist at all but i had some weird noises when my downpipe came loose because one bolt was missing. Maybe the turbo is not completely tight to the manifold or so. But in my case it was only hearable when the exhaust was cold. when it was warm, the sound wasnt that intense.
My turbo manifold started cracking again and I'm about ready to give up and keep the standalone but put stock headers back on lol
Don't forget to check crankshaft end play
if the compression is right it might be thrust bearing 6puck clutches have big impact to the thrust pull and push the flywheel to check for play same thing you did with the rods. another thing if it comes from the nose you might have oil pump issue
Really enjoyed this one. Chasing faults are the most interesting 👍
Disconnect the accessory belts and run it to see if it's something with those.
Any debris in the oil/inside the oil filter?
I did try that although didn't film it. Unfortunately no change in the sound
I believe when shifted in fourth, the noise could already be heard..any sign of overboost in logs?
If oil press is all good, maybe rod bent, or crankshaft play/thrust bearing issue. Once had a case of a broken thrust bearing (don't remember what car) removed serpentine belt, stuck a pry bar behind harmonic balancer and there was movement.
Removing oil pan would tell more either way..
Some good points, but I just want to point out if a rod was bent you'd lose some compression In the affected cylinder
@@miatamadness9535
I see what you mean, there are many cases of bent rod, but the piston is very slightly lower for it to care, so the engine starts and runs fine with normal oil press, except for the noise. In my case the small end of a rod was kissing the crank..
Should add my rod did not bend to banana shape, but to the side, like small end was offset to big end, if that makes sense (eng. not my mother language)
Can you check thrust easily? Maybe wiped the thrust bearing out?
The usual way is with a dial indicator, mounted to the block, and the plunger contacting something connected to the crank. And you push and pull the crank. I would want to know the depth of the travel.
A heavy duty clutch puts a lot of load on those trust washers jafro spoke about it in his earlier videos
Agreed. The worst is at startup when the oil pressure has not developed. A lot of people start in neutral with the clutch engaged to prevent this. This requires that the clutch switch be defeated in some way.
Stretched exhaust studs/pulled the exhaust studs out of the head is my guess. That happened to my on my 99. It sounded just like this, idled fine but exhaust was loud/had a metal rattling sound. I ended up needing to helicoil 4 or 5 of the exhaust studs and the rest were able to be tightened back down.
Sorry to see this. With headphones, the engine didn’t sound very healthy way before that last pull. I hope you figure it out and it can be repaired relatively easily. How easy is it to drop de oil pan? Can you access the main bearings with the engine in the car?
You can drop your 60-120 further if you reduce drag. Full flat underbody does wonders.
I had a similar noise when my harmonic balancer failed
Sounds like piston slap? ...maybe a bent rod and not a bearing .. so weird I'm just guessing hopefully none of the above
I think it’s the valves man. Since the timing belt was loose I bet it crapped up the valves somehow. One time after replacing my head gasket I tried to scape some carbon off the valves and when I did they stopped sealing properly and suddenly there was a huge loud noise that sounded like it was coming out of the exhaust side of the head and it was a terrible raspy noise. Didn’t want to fool with valves so I bought a new head slapped it on and the problem went away
Some other folk have already suggested it, but maybe removing the oil pan and taking a gander there might shed some light on the problem?
The trigger wheel could be touching the cam belt cover
I'm thinking oil pump. Sorry to see this for you man. I know the sinking feeling when sounds start. How did the oil look?
Yes. Dropping the oil through a strainer only takes a few minutes. I would want to know if there were chips in the strainer, or glitter in the oil.
I think it may be the pilot bearing. Since it was not really pressed fit, it may have grenaded.
I think you're referring to my old twin disc setup where the pilot bearing didn't fit right. Fortunately that is long gone and the current setup does not have that issue
For those thinking it's crank walk/bad thrust bearing, wouldn't it only make noise with the clutch pedal in?
Sounds a bit like crankshaft bearing, rodbearing would be a bit less regular knock when reving.
Crank main bearing or really lucky/unlucky broke crank shaft or shattered oil pump.
What about a crank bearing ?
It doesn’t have to be 100% a rod bearing.
Not a Mazda man but could you see the bearings if you drop the pan ?
How much movement on the crank when you push it all the way to the rear extreme and then move it all the way forward?
hows the oil pressure maybe the pump gear ate it isnt the forged one rated for like ~500
If a sound is coming from crank pulley area could it be a oil pump? Gears making noise. I asume pressure is ok so no shatered gears but easy to take it and check if you havent yet.. hoping its not a bottom end!
I once had what I thought was a knock coming from my engine. I waited a couple of weeks before I could replace the rod bearings. Started the car and the noise was still there. Removed the serpentine belt and the noise went away. Turned out the bearings in the alternator failed. At least it had a new set of rod bearings 🤣
How is the thrust clearance on the crank when you pull the flywheel?
Where did you get the bracket for the Toyota coils?