I like to have some big books around to place atop glued pieces as they are drying. Books have different densities. The best ones are chunky, with hard covers. You can also place a perfectly flat piece of wood or metal between the books and the glued pieces.
Nice video. For years I was using CA glue (super glue) all wrong. When combined with an accelerator, real magic happens...you can have enough time to position pieces and once the accelerator is applied it instantly sets, allowing you to move on in the build. I found that incorporating an accelerator transformed my process for model making, especially in balsa/basswood and styrene. I find a small one-piece bulb applicator makes it easy to apply the thin accelerator.
@@kylesinko It's a very thin low viscosity fluid that flows very well, it works its way into tight crannies and also can saturate local wood fibers. I usually apply it after the super glue and final adjustments, but if you're in some layup where you need an instant bond you can apply it to one surface first and glue to the second, upon contact the joint is done. This magic stuff cures the CA glue instantly.
letting pva set up a bit is something I haven't thought of yet should have. Many times in my painting process I let the acrylic paint set up a bit on the palette to exploit it's viscosity for texture. Also, while you still have access to the interior of a model, magnets are a great way to hold card in place while glue cures. Sometimes I'll use a bit of card covered in baking paper and a few magnets to hold down long/large pieces like trim rather than weighing or clamp and risk damaging work already done.
I think he's a great teacher. This persona doesn't always come across convincing so it doesn't seem sincere. I'm finding it was mainly at the beginning, say 1/5 of the video. Why say this when its either not going to be read or just disregarded? Because ultimately its a great video it would be great to see your following increase.
Hi!! Would you recommend a mini table saw? Why or why not? I'm a first time model maker and after some lonnnnng hours doing cuts with an exacto ( I think I went too extravagant with my building materials, they be thicc) I went ahead and purchased one . Wondering if I should be epecting any bumps in the road ahead with the new little tool. Thanks for sharing your knowledge!! I'm a new archi student and your channel has been helpful :)
Hi Natalie! I've used a normal wood saw for a few projects where I had to get through 3-5mm MDF, no way I was going to use an xacto for that. I seriously think that with model making you should step outside the box and use whatever tools necessary. A mini table saw is a great tool to add to the collection. Depending on the material, you can sand it down after sawing to get a cleaner cut, as it might be a bit rough after. Thanks for the comment and best of luck with your project :)
Not to be sceptical, but these aren't really hacks, just a few of the absolute basics of model making. Golden ones nonetheless! For the glue I'd suggest just using another type which dries faster (lots of the UHU-brand) and/or work in phases (draw pieces of phase 1, cut phase 1, prepare phase 1 with glue, draw and cut out phase 2 whilst 1 hardens, prepare phase 2 with glue and put phase 1 together, draw and cut out phase 3 whilst 2 hardens, prepare phase 3 with glue and put phase 2 together etc.)
Nah, use model trees... they are professional seeing as professionals use them. Unless the rest of your model is abstract. A foam blob on a stick in embarassing
My pleasure Gae! As for the blades, I tend to wrap them up in anti-cut materials such as thick bubble wrap or put them in a closed box before putting in the regular bin. There's probably a more proper way to dispose of them but I'm not 100% sure
Hi. Could you please, if convenient, do a step by step tutorial of how to create a curved model structure.
Hey The Don. I'll look into it! Thanks for the suggestion :.)
Speaking of using things around the house, I recently used a small round battery as a bathroom mirror. Loved it!
Bloody genius!
I like to have some big books around to place atop glued pieces as they are drying. Books have different densities. The best ones are chunky, with hard covers. You can also place a perfectly flat piece of wood or metal between the books and the glued pieces.
Great tip!
Hello Kyle, thank you for such an amazing and informative video. You have the eye of an expert and the touch of a magician.
Nice video. For years I was using CA glue (super glue) all wrong. When combined with an accelerator, real magic happens...you can have enough time to position pieces and once the accelerator is applied it instantly sets, allowing you to move on in the build. I found that incorporating an accelerator transformed my process for model making, especially in balsa/basswood and styrene. I find a small one-piece bulb applicator makes it easy to apply the thin accelerator.
I've never heard of accelerator before. Is that a paste you add to glue to make it dry quicker?
@@kylesinko It's a very thin low viscosity fluid that flows very well, it works its way into tight crannies and also can saturate local wood fibers. I usually apply it after the super glue and final adjustments, but if you're in some layup where you need an instant bond you can apply it to one surface first and glue to the second, upon contact the joint is done. This magic stuff cures the CA glue instantly.
@@phugoidoscillations could you recommend a kind ?
This was a great set of hacks! I too, don't really like model making :/
Also, I see SKZ, I subscribe :)
Hahaha awesome! Glad you liked it Yasmeen.
letting pva set up a bit is something I haven't thought of yet should have. Many times in my painting process I let the acrylic paint set up a bit on the palette to exploit it's viscosity for texture.
Also, while you still have access to the interior of a model, magnets are a great way to hold card in place while glue cures. Sometimes I'll use a bit of card covered in baking paper and a few magnets to hold down long/large pieces like trim rather than weighing or clamp and risk damaging work already done.
Genius. Thanks for sharing!
Very clean I like it
Thanks!
Helpful video, can't wait to try the hack about the glue :) well scripted and the editing is great!
Thank you very much Roman! Always appreciate your comments
1:57 how did stray kids end up here-
Thank you so much !!! These hacks helped me a lot !!!
Super glad to hear! Thank you for watching! :D
Thank you 😇
I think he's a great teacher. This persona doesn't always come across convincing so it doesn't seem sincere. I'm finding it was mainly at the beginning, say 1/5 of the video. Why say this when its either not going to be read or just disregarded? Because ultimately its a great video it would be great to see your following increase.
Thank you very much Maria!
Hi!! Would you recommend a mini table saw? Why or why not? I'm a first time model maker and after some lonnnnng hours doing cuts with an exacto ( I think I went too extravagant with my building materials, they be thicc) I went ahead and purchased one . Wondering if I should be epecting any bumps in the road ahead with the new little tool.
Thanks for sharing your knowledge!! I'm a new archi student and your channel has been helpful :)
Hi Natalie! I've used a normal wood saw for a few projects where I had to get through 3-5mm MDF, no way I was going to use an xacto for that. I seriously think that with model making you should step outside the box and use whatever tools necessary. A mini table saw is a great tool to add to the collection. Depending on the material, you can sand it down after sawing to get a cleaner cut, as it might be a bit rough after. Thanks for the comment and best of luck with your project :)
prepare your glue is the life changing hack ,, :D love this
Definitely a game changer. Thanks for watching!
That's amazing sir 😊
Glad you enjoyed it!
Loved it!
Thanks a lot!
Not to be sceptical, but these aren't really hacks, just a few of the absolute basics of model making. Golden ones nonetheless!
For the glue I'd suggest just using another type which dries faster (lots of the UHU-brand) and/or work in phases (draw pieces of phase 1, cut phase 1, prepare phase 1 with glue, draw and cut out phase 2 whilst 1 hardens, prepare phase 2 with glue and put phase 1 together, draw and cut out phase 3 whilst 2 hardens, prepare phase 3 with glue and put phase 2 together etc.)
That's brilliant advice. Thanks for sharing!
Thank you
ohhhh I see *SKZ*
Hi ! What material do you use for your models?
Hi Arian! It really changes for each model. Some basic materials would include foam, balsa, card, MDF and anything I can find really.
Helpful🤗🤘
Thanks dude!
yes my dog is very picky about architectur
you should never use a flat straight edge (steel rule) for cutting. If you slip…….
By the way Kyle, using a hot-glue gun with their respective cartridges & cement-glue are two alternatives that will speed up your model making. 👍
Great tip! Cheers Robert
Material for conceptual and final model plz
How to get inclined walls in models with accurate champher
wow....h3ro!
Can anyone give me the tools in the video
Use a clear glue gun
I thought this was blender
Hack #1- Do not try to make a how to video so you can concentrate solely on your work and meet your deadlines. 😂
Bro just buy a mini hand grinder cutter
It's a machine with round blade rotating at 2000rpm
Nah, use model trees... they are professional seeing as professionals use them. Unless the rest of your model is abstract. A foam blob on a stick in embarassing
Ur funny
Hehe thanks!
Thank-you for that. How do you dispose of your blades? Used Blades?
My pleasure Gae!
As for the blades, I tend to wrap them up in anti-cut materials such as thick bubble wrap or put them in a closed box before putting in the regular bin. There's probably a more proper way to dispose of them but I'm not 100% sure