Hi David Just seen this a second time. A tip I saw somewhere was to put a plastic drinking straw in the hole to make it easier to feed the wire down through the foam. regards John
I came to your video by chance, but it helped me figure out some options for my projects. I was wondering what do you use for "glass" on the windows of your buildings? And what do you use to attach it in place too? I was using double sided tape and just some clear packaging plastic but seems difficult to work with...
Excellent tutorial covering easy techniques for lighting, wiring and mounting. And an A-Team reference to boot! What more could anyone want? Ayedeos for now, Dave.
As always, a great video and very helpful to those who are not comfortable with electrons. I would just like to make a couple of small points... 1) the legs on an LED are not called diodes - just leads or legs. The whole unit is a diode. 2) It does not matter which lead you solder the resistor onto - either one is fine. 3) you use different values of resistors for 2 reasons - to drop enough of the voltage so that the LED will not be over-driven and to set the brightness of the LED. Most LEDs drop about 1.2 to 1.8 volts, so the resistor is needed to drop the rest of the voltage coming from your source. Once in the right range (1.2 - 1.8 volts), small increments of resistance, up or down, can set the brightness. Using a 320ohm resistor will make a much brighter light, whereas 1K ohm will dim it down... Higher resistance = lower light level. Just wanted to add that to an already very helpful video. All the best to you and the folks of Thunder Mesa. Jess
Most LED strip lighting already has the ballast resistor (dropping resistor) made onto the LED strips. I usually use from 9 to 12 LED's per coach. When using single LED's I use a ballast resistor in line with either lead of the LED. It don't matter which one, just so there's a ballast resistor.
Another great tip video. I like when people show how they achieve the special effects. It helps sparks ideas that others can do on their layout. Thanks for shareing. Be safe and look forward to your next video.👍🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Everything about this video is spot on...loud and clear sound with instructions well explained. And yes, I do remember the little grain bulbs included in kits, but never bothered with them because I considered them a luxury as they would barely last. Indeed, the LED is a gift from the hobby gods - we live in a great era for modeling between tutorials like this, modern products, and easy access to these items. I have used the Woodland Scenics "Just Plug" system which, yes, is excellent, but not if you are working within a budget trying to light a large layout. Besides, the explanation here allows modellers to customize their lighting to a greater extent. Just Plug is great for the central control and easy use, but it is too costly for situations requiring significant use, unfortunately. A pleasure to watch this!!!
Hey Dave, I love that black box effect. In the next few weeks I am going to give it a try. Back in January, during my cardiac recovery, I did some structure rehab including interior enhancement. My technique or mistake was to cut the floor section or the roof section away. Build hidden channel walls to run wiring. Hand paint the interior walls black. Add lighting. Install scaled realistic photos and props. Finally reattaching the floor or roof with the ability to have future access. Damn that took days. But where was I going to go. The recliner, the bed, the treadmill. The idea of lightning an alligator foam box, glueing on the interior photos, and installing it to the roadbed is cool. Thank you for the upgrade. Jim
Some really good ideas! LED’s are a wonderful modeling resource once you figure out how to use them without blowing them up! I credit UA-cam with enabling me to overcome my intense led paranoia, and Amazon with making it so easy to find the electronics components that we modelers need! And speaking of Amazon, that’s where I discovered the variable voltage wall wart! Bought one, don’t know how I’ve lived 62 years without it! I have several now, very handy at the workbench, and if you add those little adapters that plug onto the cord and have two screw terminals in them, you have an incredibly handy and cheap tool!
For structure lighting, I run a positive and a negative 12 volt dc buss below the layout and drop LED feeders to the buss. Makes for easy lighting without a lot of fuss and muss. I lit up an HO scale RPO car and used bright white LED strips 'cause that's all I had ordered. Wife said the RPO car didn't look right--lights were too bright. So I took it apart again and used some acrylic yellow paint & painted each LED bulb with the yellow paint. Looks like I used yellow LED's now and the car has a better appearance, definitely not too bright now. I even made my own pick ups out of some thin copper I salvaged from several old computers. Now I've got about 8 more coaches to light up with LED strips, full wave bridge rectifiers and a 3300uF capacitor for non-directional flicker free lighting. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Thank you for this. I am not building rail roads... I am working on a highly detailed tractor/trailer rig.... this is the best explanation I have seen yet. I am curious about the DC wiring bus. I got 57% on my grade 10 electricity course and its been a lot of years since then. I will have to do a search on the wiring bus and the 9v DC transformer. Thank you very much for this video.
Thank you for this video. Finally found one that explains LEDs in an easy to understand manner. Now I finally get it and look forward to incorporating them into my future dioramas.
What a wonderful project you have! I live in sweden, 70 yo and started this year building doll houses 1:12scale.i have the things you showed in your vid but I CAN not get it to light up. Lit batt, on/off and small led lamps with yellow and black cabel. Batt has a black and a redcabel. Tried every way but they dont light up. Can you give mme advise? Love from sweden.
OMG this just made my day. Im literally in the process of doing this now. But can you tell what did you use for the dc wire bus and how you wired the wall wort to it
You can use any 9-12 volt rated DC transformer. Many of these wall worts have a plug you will need to cut off. Remove it, strip the insulation off the ends of the wires, and screw it to the terminals on one end of the bus. You can pick these terminal strips up at most hardware stores.
I won’t be the first or the last but to help anyone from the uk. When you hear “sodor” the narrator means SOLDER, we in the uk pronounce the L 😂 btw great informative video 👍
Hello, i found your video very interested and helpful because i am also new on diorama making and i want to include led as part of my project. i am just wondering, what is the tool you use splicing the wire and its already been cut after? and where can i buy positive and negative wire is there a size for wire? and what is the name of the bulb? sorry if i have so many question. thank you inadvance. 👌
Love your videos, very helpful. One question, I want to put a single led light in a paper building HO scale, do I have to worry about fire? How hot do these lights get?
Hello, I’m not very good at all this electronics manipulation. I’m hoping I can pick your brain. If I’m trying to light an ocean liner (1/600) with around 30 small LEDs spread around the hull, what kind of power source/ resisters do I need?
You never explained how the 9-volt power goes into the test strip that was my whole question how are you getting power to these little lights plugged into an AC wall at 120 volts
Really helpful as a first introduction mate, thank you!
Great info. For those of us who are newbies, this is really helpful.
Hi David
Just seen this a second time.
A tip I saw somewhere was to put a plastic drinking straw in the hole to make it easier to feed the wire down through the foam.
regards John
I came to your video by chance, but it helped me figure out some options for my projects. I was wondering what do you use for "glass" on the windows of your buildings? And what do you use to attach it in place too? I was using double sided tape and just some clear packaging plastic but seems difficult to work with...
I often use clear plastic from old packaging. I highly recommend Zapp Canopy Glue for an adhesive.
Excellent tutorial covering easy techniques for lighting, wiring and mounting. And an A-Team reference to boot! What more could anyone want?
Ayedeos for now, Dave.
Love the audio addition at the end: LOL!
Flickering lights make all the difference.
I can just imagine an old man in a rocking chair with a pipe at the end of a long, hot dusty day.
As always, a great video and very helpful to those who are not comfortable with electrons.
I would just like to make a couple of small points...
1) the legs on an LED are not called diodes - just leads or legs. The whole unit is a diode.
2) It does not matter which lead you solder the resistor onto - either one is fine.
3) you use different values of resistors for 2 reasons - to drop enough of the voltage so that the LED will not be over-driven and to set the brightness of the LED.
Most LEDs drop about 1.2 to 1.8 volts, so the resistor is needed to drop the rest of the voltage coming from your source.
Once in the right range (1.2 - 1.8 volts), small increments of resistance, up or down, can set the brightness. Using a 320ohm resistor will make a much brighter light, whereas 1K ohm will dim it down... Higher resistance = lower light level.
Just wanted to add that to an already very helpful video.
All the best to you and the folks of Thunder Mesa.
Jess
Thank you for those great facts. Very helpful!
Most LED strip lighting already has the ballast resistor (dropping resistor) made onto the LED strips. I usually use from 9 to 12 LED's per coach. When using single LED's I use a ballast resistor in line with either lead of the LED. It don't matter which one, just so there's a ballast resistor.
Love the addition of the Fowler's Toad sound, little WAAAAA sound.
Thank you that helped alot. I sure needed some one to teach me about lighting my building.
GOD BLESS 🚂💖🚂💖🚂💖
Another great tip video. I like when people show how they achieve the special effects. It helps sparks ideas that others can do on their layout. Thanks for shareing. Be safe and look forward to your next video.👍🚂🚂🚂🚂🚂
THANK YOU SO MUCH!!! Everything about this video is spot on...loud and clear sound with instructions well explained. And yes, I do remember the little grain bulbs included in kits, but never bothered with them because I considered them a luxury as they would barely last. Indeed, the LED is a gift from the hobby gods - we live in a great era for modeling between tutorials like this, modern products, and easy access to these items. I have used the Woodland Scenics "Just Plug" system which, yes, is excellent, but not if you are working within a budget trying to light a large layout. Besides, the explanation here allows modellers to customize their lighting to a greater extent. Just Plug is great for the central control and easy use, but it is too costly for situations requiring significant use, unfortunately. A pleasure to watch this!!!
Hey Dave,
I love that black box effect. In the next few weeks I am going to give it a try.
Back in January, during my cardiac recovery, I did some structure rehab including interior enhancement. My technique or mistake was to cut the floor section or the roof section away. Build hidden channel walls to run wiring. Hand paint the interior walls black. Add lighting. Install scaled realistic photos and props. Finally reattaching the floor or roof with the ability to have future access.
Damn that took days. But where was I going to go. The recliner, the bed, the treadmill.
The idea of lightning an alligator foam box, glueing on the interior photos, and installing it to the roadbed is cool. Thank you for the upgrade.
Jim
I think Disney taught me that lighting is part of the mood/look. Thx for tips!
Some really good ideas! LED’s are a wonderful modeling resource once you figure out how to use them without blowing them up! I credit UA-cam with enabling me to overcome my intense led paranoia, and Amazon with making it so easy to find the electronics components that we modelers need! And speaking of Amazon, that’s where I discovered the variable voltage wall wart! Bought one, don’t know how I’ve lived 62 years without it! I have several now, very handy at the workbench, and if you add those little adapters that plug onto the cord and have two screw terminals in them, you have an incredibly handy and cheap tool!
Another great tip. I like the way you explain how to do things.
For structure lighting, I run a positive and a negative 12 volt dc buss below the layout and drop LED feeders to the buss. Makes for easy lighting without a lot of fuss and muss. I lit up an HO scale RPO car and used bright white LED strips 'cause that's all I had ordered. Wife said the RPO car didn't look right--lights were too bright. So I took it apart again and used some acrylic yellow paint & painted each LED bulb with the yellow paint. Looks like I used yellow LED's now and the car has a better appearance, definitely not too bright now. I even made my own pick ups out of some thin copper I salvaged from several old computers. Now I've got about 8 more coaches to light up with LED strips, full wave bridge rectifiers and a 3300uF capacitor for non-directional flicker free lighting. W Rusty Lane K9POW in eastern Tennessee
Thanks for this one Dave !!!
Mike Fifer
You have some fantastic ideas, thanks for showing us.
Thank you for this. I am not building rail roads... I am working on a highly detailed tractor/trailer rig.... this is the best explanation I have seen yet. I am curious about the DC wiring bus. I got 57% on my grade 10 electricity course and its been a lot of years since then. I will have to do a search on the wiring bus and the 9v DC transformer. Thank you very much for this video.
Thank you for this video. Finally found one that explains LEDs in an easy to understand manner. Now I finally get it and look forward to incorporating them into my future dioramas.
Glad you found it helpful!
“ not an electronic wiz” haha yeah we’re riding the same boat, hence why I chose your video haha 😆
Great video, thanks for the tips
Fantastic video. I loved seeing that Birdcage Theatre building. I have toured it many times. Great channel.
Lighting is such a powerful tool for adding extra wow factor to a layout. Excellent video and gorgeous layout as always!
very impressive layout sir
Very cool and informative video! Thanks for sharing it!
Really a great,great video.
You really explained everything nicely.
Thank you again.
Nice thank you
What a wonderful project you have! I live in sweden, 70 yo and started this year building doll houses 1:12scale.i have the things you showed in your vid but I CAN not get it to light up. Lit batt, on/off and small led lamps with yellow and black cabel. Batt has a black and a redcabel. Tried every way but they dont light up. Can you give mme advise? Love from sweden.
Nice tutorial. Thanks for the info.
Very informative and fantastic presentation 👍
Nice video
OMG this just made my day. Im literally in the process of doing this now. But can you tell what did you use for the dc wire bus and how you wired the wall wort to it
You can use any 9-12 volt rated DC transformer. Many of these wall worts have a plug you will need to cut off. Remove it, strip the insulation off the ends of the wires, and screw it to the terminals on one end of the bus. You can pick these terminal strips up at most hardware stores.
@@ThunderMesaStudio oh my God thank you so much. This was so helpful.
Nice job. Thank you.
I love the mascara!
Um, no. I just look like that.
this was very helpful, thank you!
p.s. you have beautiful eyelashes
I won’t be the first or the last but to help anyone from the uk. When you hear “sodor” the narrator means SOLDER, we in the uk pronounce the L 😂 btw great informative video 👍
Hello, i found your video very interested and helpful because i am also new on diorama making and i want to include led as part of my project. i am just wondering, what is the tool you use splicing the wire and its already been cut after?
and where can i buy positive and negative wire is there a size for wire? and what is the name of the bulb?
sorry if i have so many question. thank you inadvance. 👌
Love your videos, very helpful. One question, I want to put a single led light in a paper building HO scale, do I have to worry about fire? How hot do these lights get?
What is the brand of wire strippers do you use? Great video.
Very nice layout. Just subbed your channel.
very nice. .what color of light are you .using on the over head. for night time.😇👍
That's blue LED tapelight
Thanks for sharing. That is a great idea for lighting structures. Maybe I missed it but why are the LEDs you just installed flickering?
As mentioned in the video, to represent kerosene lamps.
@@ThunderMesaStudio Thanks.
You can buy the leds flickering or flashing or steady. Do buy them with the resisters already on them! Huge help.
4:50 pm. Do these pre made wires work with plug and play system.
Are there any ready made lighting kits if we arent good at soldering and wiring?
I think Woodland Scenics has some
What type of toggle did you use? I will have 3 lighting sections so I assume 3 power strips and 3 power supplies? Thanks.
Ron
Also, can I use a 12V walwart instead of 9V? I have several 2000ma ones available.
What is the black item below the table which screw the cables?
👍👍👍
Hello, I’m not very good at all this electronics manipulation. I’m hoping I can pick your brain.
If I’m trying to light an ocean liner (1/600) with around 30 small LEDs spread around the hull, what kind of power source/ resisters do I need?
Are less dc or can I get them in ac
Are all led lights dc I have 3 rail ac layout and want to add led lights to some buildings do need dc or can I use ac
You never explained how the 9-volt power goes into the test strip that was my whole question how are you getting power to these little lights plugged into an AC wall at 120 volts
With a 9 volt transformer. That plugs into the wall and feeds power to the wiring buss that the LEDs are wired to. I use these: a.co/d/0pBCQGc