Once again Shannon thank you for the great video I did my basement in 2014, And it cost me a $1000 Then to do the whole basement and I asked the crew to spray right up to my ceiling in the joyces. It paid for itself in one year. Now I'm doing a small renovation project in my cold cellar which is 10' by 5'. With inflation it's gonna cost me more just to do that little space than it was to do my whole basement. So I will be buying one of these kits to do it. Thanks again.
For anyone who wants to compare glass to spray foam(closed cell) I have had 2 homes in Louisiana which gets 100 degree temps with very high humidity, Ac people will ask to come do work in your attic as early as you will wake up so they can tolerate the heat, My first home had glass in the attic, It was horrible to get in the attic during the day with two attic vents running all day. I lost that house in Katrina, The new house has spray foam in the attic, I can work in my attic all day and it gets warm but not hot. Much more affordable electric bills compared to the glass attic in the first house, my first house was 2100 square ft and the new house is 3900 square feet and I pay less now then before. It cost much more up front but if you stay in your house or plan on staying in your house for at least 15 years then it will pay for itself.
There must be some missing info here about the 2 houses. A typical attic is uninsulated. The home's insulation is found in the attic floor not on the attic ceiling. So the heat in the attic is determined by how well it's vented to the outside. The insulation doesn't make a difference because it's only creating a temp barrier between the house living space and the attic.
I live in North Port Fl heat & humidity take your breath & to pay outrageous energy bills to cool my house is absurd. I have done enough home construction to know I can do this to my mobile home interior wallas. 1x3 studs with cheap insulation. This should be great for my home. How much is the question. Home is 36x24
I am building a house in Alaska in a commercial fishing village. State ferry , 1-2x week. Or personal boat, are the only methods of transporting your building materials , or contractors that you have to pay to drive 210 miles, plus ferry, plus b.n.b. Costs, food, etc. I own my own Cessna, and seeing videos like this that help me understand my options other than commercial transportation costs of materials.... Is GOLDEN! Sometimes cost isn’t the only factor.....but convenience, personal time. I could fit this in a small plane along with my usual load.! Thank you , thank you , thank you for posting.
Excellent instructions. Anyone having problems either didn't read or didn't listen to you explaining the prerequisites... or just ignore them and did things their own way.
Perhaps, this video's title could be "Closed-cell foam for dummies". I appreciate the time you took to explain every little detail. I hate wasting my money by hiring someone to a job that I could easily do by watching this great video.✌😁✌
Thanks for the video..I am in the process of remodeling my basement and decided to try this insulation myself. It was quite easy if you follow the instructions, and your tutorial helped me know what to expect. Everything went well and it works like a charm!
FYI, the fumes don't give you any kind of buzz, but they do indeed give you a very heavy chest and red eyes that burn. You even get haze eye which can be painful, sensitivity to light and very cloudy vision. And it lasts for days. I found this out on the first job I ever did with a filtered mask and safety glasses. After that I immediately bought a forced fresh air system. Oh and if you have asthma, exposure could cause a severe asthma attack. Just throwing that out there, I'm not some big safety gooroo or nothing.
I just did this in my basement. The rim joists were so drafty it was like a wind tunnel under the floors. It was so satisfying spraying the wood and feeling the air be still afterwards :)
Awesome video, i actually am a machine operator that fills and packages those tanks. We don't wrench on the hoses anymore, but each 180, 200, or 210 kit comes with a wrench. We also changed up the design of the nozzles. Always read the instructions, lots of info in there. Great video.
I'm 24 years of age doing this in the A.M for the momma bear, first time using the foam. thank you for the instructional video it really helps a ton! Will definitely be subscribing!
@@trayvonlovell9301 I bought the Froth-Pack 200 by dupont, there are larger tanks available as well (650, etc). Make sure you you pull the the trigger all the way at all times - learned this the hard way the second time and I did not watch this vid as a refresher....
Shannon, this is closed-cell foam. You don't have to make sure you put down multiple coats to ensure vapor barrier protection, one coat dried and then cut would not allow moisture to escape since the little foam cells are closed. Cut it all you want, it does not breathe. Nice tutorial.
Nirky You're BOTH correct! By his application of multiple passes, he IS helping the TWO chemicals the needed curing time. When applied too heavily, the curing time is greatly increased and the foaming effect slightly decreased. Think of it like a good pot of soup - letting it simmer s-l-o-w-l-y helps the over-all results.
Actually, there is a limit to the depth of the lifts too, because it is an exothermic reaction, ie, creating heat as it cures, the insulating properties can trap the heat inside a thick layer causing it to overheat. It will be burnt, crispy with poor insulating value and can actually catch on fire. The minimum thickness to create a vapor barrier depends on the permeability of the specific product being used, whether it is open cell, closed cell, low density, medium density, etc... This website says that the lifts must be between 12 and 50mm in thickness, the minimum to ensure that there is a sufficient temperature for curing caused by the exothermic reaction, the maximum to prevent overheating. Page 12. cufca.ca/docs/CUFCA_SPF_GUIDE_2013_Final_Xerox_Press.pdf
What happens to the wood if you don't put vapor barrier? If insulation is done like this, I really recommend vapor barrier. There should be one hole layer foam, when you can left vapor barrier out.
I'm surprised they don't tell you these things. I have a can of spray foam gun cleaner and you'd think they would have you use that to clean the tips out if it starts to clog.
Depending on the specific situation, spray insulation is superior. For instance, if you are insulating a van, spray will prevent moisture from reaching the metal and corrode. In home, the spay can fill up air-gaps, especially around electrical outlets.
For anyone watching this today: air barrier requirements are usually met after just 1" of closed cell foam. Also spraying multiple times has nothing to do with an air barrier. Spraying multiple layers acts as a single layer. Overall thickness is your only concern.
@@TheJnetnunez Can be used for corrugated metal roofs. That is a standard "upgrade" people do to shops/barns. Just realize that it's basically glue, and replacing any panel it's sprayed on (say in 20-30 years) is quite difficult. Can still be done though. Brand doesn't really matter, you just want to use closed cell (rather than open) for the layer that contacts the roof. Open cell will absorb moisture and can cause problems.
This was a great video. I bought some two part sprat foam which included all the right tools. this video told me what to look for, how to apply the nozzle and problems to avoid. I finished three ocean containers with it.
Great Instructional Video Shannon i used these kits to do my basement 26x56 framed all in 2x2 and my Garage 24x40 x12 2x6 construction Garage Myself took 4 days to complete just after New Construction got quotes from 3 different Pro Company’s and the cheapest it could be done with 2in in the basement and 4in in the garage only outside walls was 23,650.......Highest Quote was 27,323 i did the whole job myself and did layers just as you did just invested in a large bag of fan tips and it cost me just under 10,000 including my time at $30 pr hour 24 hrs total.......The Happy Dance....🗯🥳🤪
This is similar to what I'm planning with my own remodel. I'll just be doing one room at a time as it will be a live in remodel. And due to being a live in I can't afford to rip everything out all at once to spray and then recover. For me the costs of the kits would be will spent in comparison to living in a hotel due the entire time of the tear out, electrical prep, HVAC prep, plumbing prep, shooting the walls/floors/ceilings, and then covering it all back up.
I used foam on one room as a trial. I foamed it up to the studs. Result? AMAZING! One thing that I did learn prior to trying was to always use CLOSED CELL foam. It will not soak up water and cause problems. It also acts as its own vapor barrier. As I refurbish my house I will foam each room as I go. Should drop my heat load by a very great degree. Why is it so expensive? I would guess because of how much it saves in fuel over the long haul. Not only that, but your home will be quieter and move comfortable.
@@loushear4497 One thing to keep in mind tho... Houses are designed for a certain rate of air infiltration to assist in a healthy rate of fresh air exchange and humidity. When houses are 'excessively' air tight, an Energy Recovery Unit is often used to make up for the lack of fresh air. Also, if your house is heated by gas or oil fired appliances (boilers or furnaces), they also need a source of unrestricted fresh air.
@@loushear4497 I really can't say. I would do it. Absolutely. Just saying you may be setting yourself for "Sick Building Syndrome" (as best as I can recall). It's stagnant air that's the issue. Mold can become a real issue for you depending on your locale and temps. With bldg management and HVAC designing, it's always a battle between energy efficiency and health and comfort. Just saying before you go all in, do some research and always keep in mind that there are a lot of good and a lot of "hungry" contractors out there. Be thorough in your research and understand the 'micro environment your creating. Don't mean to be alarming, it's just that a lot of people don't really understand the big picture and they really need to.
I pulled all the insulation out of my place last week. It was not even tact into place, looks like someone set it and put up drywall. It was piled up at the bottom of the walls. I am almost done spray foaming all the walls. Been using a guitar string to level it all with the studs and a putty knife to clean up the studs. Next is the roof and basement.
If the foam is closed-cell, it is its own vapor barrier, and trimming will be fine, as the next tiny cell down is closed anyway. If it is open-cell foam you will need to add a seperate vapor barrier, whether you trim it or not. The can should tell you which type.
Great video !!! Brake cleaner from the auto parts store will clean those tips out before the foam starts to harden up and set up so you can reuse them. WE use the commercial version of this stuff in the factory where I work. Part A and part B come in 300 gallon tanks and are kept at like 85 degrees far. , so yes it IS VERY important those tanks be kept warm. The hose assemblies also have heating tape inside of them to keep that stuff warm also so it doesn't cool. It affects the mixture balance as well as the velocity of it out the gun. Ours use a nitrogen gas purge valve on the guns also to blow out the chemicals after the timed shot has been finished. We use a full face shield and a hat on the head for face and head protection. If using this stuff overhead , please use earplugs....for obvious reasons. If you get it in your hair just let it set up and pick it out later after it sets up if it's a small tiny bit otherwise get the brake cleaner out and spray it into a rag to get it out before it sets. It gets messy. I know one guy who got it sprayed big time into his hair. He had to cut all his hair off. He wasn't wearing a hood or hat either.
Good explanation and demo video--thanks for posting. One thing however, while this stuff does seal well, I would still add a vapour barrier as the wood framing is not covered with this product, so to be truly a top notch job I would still add one. If however, you sprayed the concrete wall first and had a stud wall built clear of it, I would say you could skip the vapour barrier.
@Dale e Sounds like you had an unusually bad experience. I was referring to a vapour barrier applied over the wood framing and insulation before adding your gypsum board to prevent humidity penetrating from the inside. Any moisture problems coming in from the exterior of the concrete requires a barrier on the exterior side as well as proper drainage. Did your spray foam break down? That's surprising--wonder if any other people had that happen?
I insulated my living room’s addition in the same fashion as your pink panel insulation with spray foam around the ridges (off to the side of the video). One thing I did was left the R-11 bat faced insulation in place, that was still in good condition. Then, I placed the 1-1/2” pink panel insulation in behind it, and sealed up the edges. I was told this would probably more than double my R value which was only R-11 in sometimes weeks of -40F temperatures. I also had the underside of my floor down in the crawl space, and along the main crawlspace which holds the water lines, had just up the walls sprayed and reflectix paneled the dirt floor. What I missed as a new homeowner and 1st home!! I have a cinderblock foundation around both the main home and it’s addition. The cold air comes up through the cinderblocks that rest on a 6” concrete foundation, my next project is to get some sort of concrete drill and then spray foam down into each cell of the blocks.
i think you should let the first application dry then go for a second one to get the 2" thickness. I believe it needs to dry out and get the chemicals do the reaction.
I would have gave everything one coat first just in case you run out and end up w/a cavity w/ no foam at all. Too expensive for a DIY guy to buy another kit to finish. Maybe finish w/ can foam?
Well, consider this. TigerFoam offers 600 square foot kits for $600. Consider a home that has roughly 3570 square feet of wall to cover (windows and doors already taken out = 130 square feet). You would need to purchase 6 (six) kits to cover this area at 3" (3 inches) thick. However, if you were to hire a "Professional" (I received a quote for this) the same area, and the closed cell foam with labor costs comes out to $11,234.00 Which, for those that can't do math very well: $11,234 - $3,600 = $7,634 in savings. Tell me again why its better to get a "Professional?"
+Jeff M Ok there is one problem with your math. The tiger foam is 600 sq.ft. at 1" thick. So if you want 3" one kit only does 200Sq.ft So the math is this : 11234 -10800. = 434$. So if your labour is worth anything The pro is a better deal plus I believe a good pro is a better product as far as consistency . Also I have never had a DIY kit yield as good as they are supposed to.
That figure I gave was accounting for this. 3" of foam, covering roughly 1200 square feet of wall. I guess I should've included that detail. So, it is still the $3600. That also doesn't take out the studs, so this too will add another 6% of product for use.
+Jeff M Ever see what happens when you spray the foam in the wrong conditions? Try spraying the foam when it's incredibly humid and hot, it won't cure properly - ever. Kits IMO should only be used if it's a small area, and the humidity and temperature can be controlled for the entire curing process. Professionals will usually be able to compensate for differences in climate when it comes to new construction, where as a DIY guy wont know the first thing about the off the shelf foam he just bought, and won't understand what will happen long-term.
+Jeff M Your math is not right. The 600 kit is 600 sq. ft. at one inch. If you do have 3750 square feet and are looking for 3" then it is actually 3" x 3750. This is now 11250 board foot divided by 600 per kit. 18 plus kits is what you need. 18 kits x $600 per is actually $10,800 just for materials. Trust me people I have been a professional applicator and estimator for nine plus years. For a small project these are great if proper prep and safety is performed. But anything larger then about 1200 bd. ft. and you can have it done professionally dollar for dollar with someone else having the hassle and liability. One other thought, these tanks weigh 60lbs each (can get old quick moving these around a site) and you need to make sure your area will allow you to dispose of them. Hope this helps. Thanks Jeff B.
Good for insulating the back cargo area of metal vans as they have non-uniform shapes with nooks and crannies. If that space will be heated then insulation will be needed to prevent condensation, if it's cold outside the van.
Are those wires in the wall hanging for a purpose... I mean.. Someone has gone to some length to drill them holes in specific locations so that the wire makes that hanging shape. Wouldn't it be better to try and keep them close to the ceiling or the floor so that in the future people wont accidentally drill into them?!
If you apply this to a concrete block-above grade- new construction home, do you have to seal the blocks on the interior with a moisture barrier? Thanks for a thorough presentation.
We would spray block and concrete basements on the outside from foundation footings up to the top amd only the exposed foam would need to be sprayed with a UV protectant and a fire shield.
You make a good point in that that is open cell foam with all the disadvantages thereof. Do they even make DIY kit with closed cell dense foam. I understand that the light weight open cell will contract in a few days/weeks as it final cures and pull away from the perimeter. Not a good thing. Doug
I watched your video on spray foam application; how do you think this product would work in an attic ceiling with irregularly spaced trusses in a 1904 house? This would be the “easiest”, I think, as it’d save me having to buy lumber to reframe the trusses to regular spacing to fit common fibreglass batts.
This foam is good for edges, even if you do insulation panels or fiber panels. Great technology for smaller areas. It's smelly and what not, but effective. There are now more and more insulation tools and materials, I think it's a good trend, because the heating is contribution to the climate change a lot. I think we can also all save on heating cost, once the insulation is easy and affordable.
no this is not a good trend because as soon as we get enough global warming than we wont have to use as much heat to warm our houses GLOBAL WARMING FUCK YA! DUMB FUCK climate change is make believe its all about the money 99 % of scientist agree climate change is made up to initiate a world wide carbon tax to enslave global population
So many idiots still alive I guess Darwins rules of evolution are not working now or you probably believe the world was made in seven days LOL. All climate change means is the weather is changing and is getting more severe however the reason the numbers and facts don't lie unlike idiots like you, happy inbreeding :)
If you get a wrong mixture you can also get off-gassing which can cause a sick house that people are actually having to rip large portions of their homes down to correct.
@@GemCityRCOutlaws A board foot is actually a measure of volume. By definition, a board foot is one square foot, one inch thick. The most common mistake made in calculating board footage is forgetting to multiply by the thickness. Example 1: A 4/4 board 8 inches wide and 8 feet long has 5.33 bd.ft.
The only problem I can see is when you hang drywall over it. It won’t lay flat because the foam is jutting out of the space causing the sheet not to lay flat against the studs. The finished wall will be wavy. I don’t know of any customer that would accept that.
Yep I agree. These kits are hard to use even for everyday handy person. I sprayed a little structure over my well. Very messy and hard to get depth wanted. Plus insects loved it and quickly moved in boring all kinds of holes/tunnels.
Shannon - although some of your tips are spot on, you make several dangerous mistakes in this video - You should never spray another layer on top of rising foam that has not cured, becasue the new layer prevents the first layer from fully curing. As a result, the finished product will not have the full R-value, could cause off-gasing, could become flammable, among other hazards. This is one of many reasons it IS NOT A DIY PROJECT. The printed instructions should explain this but the average layman would not understand this.
Thanks for pointing that out. He should have window boxed with the spray, then a single pass fill vertically and moved onto the next section allowing the prior sections to cure 100% then go back to the first section after and make the vertical pass.
Honest opinion, I’m renovating house I just bought. I need to use closed cell as per engineer. 1200 square foot house. Doing all walls and roof joists. Had estimates from pros for 11k. Is this something I can do myself? Great video. Informative.
No, I would never attempt more than 400-600 sq. feet of surface with these kits. Have the pros come in they will be in and out and you can move on with the project. There are many other places you can DIY on this project that will be more cost and time effective.
Great video. Do you have a video on framing the lower level of a raised ranch, similar to what is in your background? I need to renovate and will end up re-framing. Don't think I caught that in your framing video.
*79 dead: The Foam Insulation blaze that ripped through the Grenfell Tower, London, causing multiple deaths (79 confirmed / 120+ estimated) has prompted widespread commentary on the Foam Insulation Industry. A Criminal investigation into the Foam Installation Contractors concerned is now taking place. It appears there will be a criminal prosecutions for corporate manslaughter for those concerned whose acts or unsafe products committed the offence. In the case of the Grenfell Tower fire, the most likely prosecution candidates would be the building’s management company, and the insulation contractors and sub-contractors involved in the property refurbishment in which apparently highly flammable foam materials were fitted as insulation.*
The foam insulation in the Grenfell tower tragedy was rigid flat panels, pre-made in a factory and attached onsite. Tragically, the many contractors and people involved used the wrong products, installed the wrong way in the wrong places for the wrong purposes. Sad tragedy but Hopefully the investigation results it will lead to better regulations, better oversight, better testing to prevent this in the future. And Hopefully All the existing screwed up buildings that made similar mistakes will somehow get retrofitted (corrected) to avoid a similar tragedy.
*The flat panels comprised the outer facade frontage, behind them was a slab of insulation foam, this ignited and aided the fire progress. What needs to be said is many products have fire certificates yet fail during a fierce blaze if enough heat is applied to them. Foam is not made to fight fires but to conserve heat. Foam burns and end of story*.
@@pipersson9258 The foam used in that case was extruded polyethylene. Caution with foam is absolutely warranted, but what is critical is that the right product is used in the right application, which that was not. Closed-cell foam like that most commonly used for high insulation value in the US can be purchased in a fire-rated form as well. www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/building-errors-were-behind-grenfell-tragedy
Hello thank you for your video. I would like to shoot some urethane on my inside wall block basement but my question is They install some 1X1 and gysproc after that old style I know… What I should do before ? Blow my wall before ? or after installing urethane . And what kind of materials
Hello, is it true that using the spray foam on the entire house for new construction is a bad idea, because it will not allow the home to breath and also you cannot run wires in the future? A builder recently told me this when I was looking into what insulation to go with for my new home build. Thanks!
You have problems running wires behind any covering on walls, however you can make a nice straight hole in this stuff with an red hot ball bearing doped from the top down. This is how they run wires in Sip's homes. Heat cuts right into this stuff like butter. So you can fish wires with a red hot poker. Wile wire isn't always going to be where you need it anyway. But I'd plan ahead and run the wires before Sheetrock any walls even plan on what you might run a few years from now like Cat 5e or 6e or even fiber. They make an inexpensive home use plastic fiber you can terminate later if its in the walls for later use. also you can run Low voltage wires for lighting upgrades. Homes are moving more to Automation so new stuff comes out everyday. Just plan ahead. Hey If I told you in 1903 to run copper wires next to your gas lines for lights, you would not had to hire an electrician to come wire up your home a few years later. I think cat 5e and 6e as well as fiber will be around for a few years anyway. Wired home phones are all but going out of style, and cable TV coax is going out of style, only other thing is Power wires and speaker cable's and or Thermostats. I really do not think your going to change wires all that much anyway, and I'll bet you would have moved out of that house after about 10 years or so anyway. The money you can save from Spray Foam over fiberglass insulation is a lot in energy cost, he's giving bad advice. but thats my 2 cents on it.
Hi Shannon, great video, as always. Are there different types of spray foams, I've heard the terms closed cell and open cell, where would you use each or could you use one over the top of the other? And also, what might a typical "R" value be for foam per inch as opposed to spun glass or mineral wool? Thanks, and keep up thegoodwork! Dave
Expanding foam is compatible with all materials except human skin - and the old 1960's polystyrene granules are not harmful to PVC cables apart from being an attractive irritant.Sep 28, 2010
Thanks for the video. What is the soundproofing like with this spray foam? Also would it be wise to put some other protective layer on top of it all before putting on dry wall incase some chemicals are let off?
Tip: spray everything once and then if you need to touch up anything do it after spraying everything the first time. It’s obvious You didn’t read the instructions it says right in the instructions don’t spray something twice immediately it says after you sprayed everything then go back and spray again if you needed to it gives the first coat to set up it even says in the instructions if you go over it twice within a few seconds it won’t set up properly that’s why you spray everything first by the time you get back to where you started it will have had already set up.
Shannon, Do I need to use the plastic anchor to attach foam board insulation sheets to my concrete basements walls? So far we've used adhesive to attach the insulation to the walls.
It was only $200 to get a pro to do my sprinter van, but over spray is rear hard to remove. and only get a pro that will use 2 lb foam on a van or trailer.
Hi Shannon. I plan to do this for my garage ceiling because the room above it is freezing in the winter. Do I do one pass first, then go back to do a second pass? Does each one pass get 2" thick when cured. What is a good thickness? When done, just cover with drywall without vapor barrier? Finally, is it necessary to spray the mix into the garbage before putting nozzle on? Or can I just put nozzle tip and start spraying. Much appreciated and thank you for a good video.
Hi Shannon, Thanks Shannon for the video with its informative and detailed instructions. I debating whether to buy a kit or get a professional to do it. I do have someone coming over tomorrow to give a price. I will post the results tomorrow. In reading the comments this foam your using is a closed cell foam and made by Froth Pak..... I've been buying stuff on Ebay now you can get up to 1 year no interest with Pay Pal Credit that's better than using your Lowes card for purchases over $300, which usually offers only six months no interest. Which is awesome in trying to remodel a house.....I have a question that looks like Energy Shelf House has asked and I'm hoping you can answer it? When applying this foam on ceilings does it work with the do it yourself kits? The videos I've watched for spraying foam on ceilings usually the machine is a real expensive looking machine not the do it yourself kits. I have an attic that I converted into a second floor. It has cathedral ceilings. It is framed with true 2 x 4 ceiling rafters (joists). I have two turbines and have closed the ridge vent. I'm interested in the spray foam because of the r factor and that it does not mold. I'm living in Arkansas where it is humid and very hot in the summer about 100 degrees. If you could answer this question and also the company you recommend to get it from I'd appreciate it. You make it all look so easy...... I would respect and trust your advice. Thanks so much........
Using these systems should work fine working overhead, i personally have never used one on rafters but can't see why they would not work. Cover yourself head to toe as it could get a little messy. If you have a lot to do a foam contractor would be cheaper in most cases.
I was thinking about using these kits for installing spray foam in my attic. But I discovered that it was far less expensive to hire a professional to do it. It is MUCH more cost effective to hire a professional foam insulation installation company. Harrisonburg, Virginia
I own a spray foam business. These DIY kits are bad and I'll tell you why. First off unless the job is so incredibly tiny, it would be cheaper for you to hire a professional applicator and have everything done verses buying a kit and still having to do it yourself. Secondly who out there follows 100% of the safety rules out there? Those filtered masks aren't approved for interior work, because they don't filter out 100% of harmful fumes. Exposure to Isocyanate fumes can have very negative side affects to your respiratory system. As an applicator, our fresh air is pumped to us from outside the structure. They are full face mask because even fume exposure to the eyes is bad. So save yourself money, time, and the health hazard and just have it professionally done.
These kits in my opinion are best for small jobs or remote areas where hiring a pro like your self is usually to expensive. I do agree that a fresh air respirator would be best but for the average person doing maybe one to five of these canisters in their lifetime the risks are minimal when following the manufactures instructions. I do appreciate your input, thank you.
well..obviously....we would expect to hear you whine and complain about a diy kit. ...safety is for wimps. It just isn't fun it you can't catch a buzz off the fumes
I've got to agree with this guy, also from what I remember reading (may be wrong on this, it's been a while) but the empty tanks are considered hazardous waste and have to be disposed of accordingly. but the price to coverage is really the biggest issue, much cheaper to higher it out to someone that knows what they are doing, and if you can't budget for full spray foam you can use a method called "flash and batt", this is where in a modern 2x6 house they spray an inch of spray foam to seal the wall then use typical batt insulation to achieve the code required (or better) r-value, the benefit of this is the spray foam seals any airleaks that normal batts would allow to penetrate the building envelope but is a cheaper option vs. a full thickness spray foaming of a house.
A flash and batt could be slightly cheaper, but by the time you figure in the cost of the fiberglass you may as well have just had a full 3 inches of closed cell foam for $2.35 a sqft. You won't save much. 1 inch generally runs $1+ and fiberglass installed is $1+ depending on the batt. Where 3 inches of closed cell is going to get you close to a true R21. Fiberglass at a r19 in a 2x6 wall will only perform at that in a controlled laboratory, never in real world conditions.
HouseImprovements I was recently quoted a rate of about $2.50 per sq. ft to do 960 square feet in three shipping containers. The location is about 50 miles from the company offering the service. I got a price on the materials as you are using here. I should save about a $1,000 on the job. I appreciate the video so thanks.
Could you use these kits to fill concrete blocks as you were laying them if you put a hose over the end of the nozzle and filled about 3 rows of block at a time
HouseImprovements Most structures are badly insulated. At least it's a bit better than 50 years ago, but we are in no way close to what should be done for insulation* to be meaningful in term of economy and environment.
It isn't meaningless at all, in fact new building codes consider the effect of bridging in calculating the performance of an insulated wall. To achieve r24 performance in a 2x6 stud wall 16"oc will actually require more than r24 insulation, I don't have the tables for calculating it right now but on my own house I have 1/2" interior sheathing for r1, air layer for r .5, r24 rated mineral wool batts, exterior sheathing for r1, exterior xps rigid foam for r10. 36.5 total but the effective insulation was something like r32 when considering the conduction through wood members and effectively uninsulated space due to that bridging. I think a standard old wall, 2x4 16oc with r20 has an effective value of about r17.2.
actually since the area of the studs are quite small compared to the area of the adjacent insulation and the R values are in parallel, the studs have a small impact on heat transfer. if you read and learn about heat transfer using simple circuit equivalents it is pretty straight forward.
Once again Shannon thank you for the great video I did my basement in 2014, And it cost me a $1000 Then to do the whole basement and I asked the crew to spray right up to my ceiling in the joyces. It paid for itself in one year. Now I'm doing a small renovation project in my cold cellar which is 10' by 5'. With inflation it's gonna cost me more just to do that little space than it was to do my whole basement. So I will be buying one of these kits to do it.
Thanks again.
For anyone who wants to compare glass to spray foam(closed cell) I have had 2 homes in Louisiana which gets 100 degree temps with very high humidity, Ac people will ask to come do work in your attic as early as you will wake up so they can tolerate the heat, My first home had glass in the attic, It was horrible to get in the attic during the day with two attic vents running all day. I lost that house in Katrina, The new house has spray foam in the attic, I can work in my attic all day and it gets warm but not hot. Much more affordable electric bills compared to the glass attic in the first house, my first house was 2100 square ft and the new house is 3900 square feet and I pay less now then before. It cost much more up front but if you stay in your house or plan on staying in your house for at least 15 years then it will pay for itself.
Thank you with helping my decision
Great info!
Was it just roof you had sprayed ? Closed ornopen cell ? No condensation problem in winter ?
There must be some missing info here about the 2 houses. A typical attic is uninsulated. The home's insulation is found in the attic floor not on the attic ceiling. So the heat in the attic is determined by how well it's vented to the outside. The insulation doesn't make a difference because it's only creating a temp barrier between the house living space and the attic.
I live in North Port Fl heat & humidity take your breath & to pay outrageous energy bills to cool my house is absurd. I have done enough home construction to know I can do this to my mobile home interior wallas.
1x3 studs with cheap insulation. This should be great for my home. How much is the question. Home is 36x24
I am building a house in Alaska in a commercial fishing village.
State ferry , 1-2x week.
Or personal boat, are the only methods of transporting your building materials , or contractors that you have to pay to drive 210 miles, plus ferry, plus b.n.b. Costs, food, etc.
I own my own Cessna, and seeing videos like this that help me understand my options other than commercial transportation costs of materials....
Is GOLDEN!
Sometimes cost isn’t the only factor.....but convenience, personal time.
I could fit this in a small plane along with my usual load.!
Thank you , thank you , thank you for posting.
Excellent instructions. Anyone having problems either didn't read or didn't listen to you explaining the prerequisites... or just ignore them and did things their own way.
Some people think I talk too much but that is where the details are usually.
@@HouseImprovements there's no way you talk too much. That is what sets your videos apart. Very detailed. Love them.
Perhaps, this video's title could be "Closed-cell foam for dummies".
I appreciate the time you took to explain every little detail. I hate wasting my money by hiring someone to a job that I could easily do by watching this great video.✌😁✌
Thanks for the video..I am in the process of remodeling my basement and decided to try this insulation myself. It was quite easy if you follow the instructions, and your tutorial helped me know what to expect. Everything went well and it works like a charm!
Roy Korn can you tell me what insulation kit this was or the one similar to the one you used please.
Where do you buy the insulation kit home depot?
Foaming starts at 12:57
Lol
Thanks. You da real MVP.
Thanks
Thanks
You really a life saver 🤣
FYI, the fumes don't give you any kind of buzz, but they do indeed give you a very heavy chest and red eyes that burn. You even get haze eye which can be painful, sensitivity to light and very cloudy vision. And it lasts for days. I found this out on the first job I ever did with a filtered mask and safety glasses. After that I immediately bought a forced fresh air system. Oh and if you have asthma, exposure could cause a severe asthma attack. Just throwing that out there, I'm not some big safety gooroo or nothing.
Thank you very much for sharing that information It is vital to know!
I just did this in my basement. The rim joists were so drafty it was like a wind tunnel under the floors. It was so satisfying spraying the wood and feeling the air be still afterwards :)
works nicely!
Are the rim joist what sits on the foundation edge around the house??!
Awesome video, i actually am a machine operator that fills and packages those tanks. We don't wrench on the hoses anymore, but each 180, 200, or 210 kit comes with a wrench. We also changed up the design of the nozzles. Always read the instructions, lots of info in there. Great video.
I appreciate you sharing your insight, it's always good to hear from those working in the industry.
I'm 24 years of age doing this in the A.M for the momma bear, first time using the foam. thank you for the instructional video it really helps a ton! Will definitely be subscribing!
Just bought this exact kit from the local Menards to do the outside facing basement joists. This is a big help, thank you for the DIY.
What brand is this kit?
@@trayvonlovell9301 I bought the Froth-Pack 200 by dupont, there are larger tanks available as well (650, etc).
Make sure you you pull the the trigger all the way at all times - learned this the hard way the second time and I did not watch this vid as a refresher....
Shannon, this is closed-cell foam. You don't have to make sure you put down multiple coats to ensure vapor barrier protection, one coat dried and then cut would not allow moisture to escape since the little foam cells are closed. Cut it all you want, it does not breathe. Nice tutorial.
Thanks for clearing that up.
Haha, i just came to the comments to say the same thing
Nirky You're BOTH correct!
By his application of multiple passes, he IS helping the TWO chemicals the needed curing time. When applied too heavily, the curing time is greatly increased and the foaming effect slightly decreased. Think of it like a good pot of soup - letting it simmer s-l-o-w-l-y helps the over-all results.
Actually, there is a limit to the depth of the lifts too, because it is an exothermic reaction, ie, creating heat as it cures, the insulating properties can trap the heat inside a thick layer causing it to overheat. It will be burnt, crispy with poor insulating value and can actually catch on fire.
The minimum thickness to create a vapor barrier depends on the permeability of the specific product being used, whether it is open cell, closed cell, low density, medium density, etc...
This website says that the lifts must be between 12 and 50mm in thickness, the minimum to ensure that there is a sufficient temperature for curing caused by the exothermic reaction, the maximum to prevent overheating. Page 12.
cufca.ca/docs/CUFCA_SPF_GUIDE_2013_Final_Xerox_Press.pdf
What happens to the wood if you don't put vapor barrier? If insulation is done like this, I really recommend vapor barrier. There should be one hole layer foam, when you can left vapor barrier out.
TIP: if you want to save a tip have a container of acetone, put the used tip in the acetone it will dissolve the foam in the nozzle
I was wondering what will turn it back to liquid. Thx!
I'm surprised they don't tell you these things. I have a can of spray foam gun cleaner and you'd think they would have you use that to clean the tips out if it starts to clog.
Thanks! That’s good to know.
@@harleymeyerink3747 You won't buy new tips if they tell you how to fix it.
Yeah spray foam cleaner or you can get a can of spray release as well.
Depending on the specific situation, spray insulation is superior. For instance, if you are insulating a van, spray will prevent moisture from reaching the metal and corrode. In home, the spay can fill up air-gaps, especially around electrical outlets.
For anyone watching this today: air barrier requirements are usually met after just 1" of closed cell foam. Also spraying multiple times has nothing to do with an air barrier. Spraying multiple layers acts as a single layer. Overall thickness is your only concern.
I thought 2" of closed cell foam constituted an air barrier...
You sound knowledgeable. Could you use this on a ceiling with corrugated metal ceiling? Any recommendations for brands?
@@TheJnetnunez Can be used for corrugated metal roofs. That is a standard "upgrade" people do to shops/barns. Just realize that it's basically glue, and replacing any panel it's sprayed on (say in 20-30 years) is quite difficult. Can still be done though.
Brand doesn't really matter, you just want to use closed cell (rather than open) for the layer that contacts the roof. Open cell will absorb moisture and can cause problems.
@@whitenite007 we did a shop addition and all you should really have to do is put the pink styrofoam insulation board up first then spray foam.
This was a great video. I bought some two part sprat foam which included all the right tools. this video told me what to look for, how to apply the nozzle and problems to avoid. I finished three ocean containers with it.
Randy H where you buy it? S?
@@joelreyes8478 princess auto and Canadian tire have it.
Great Instructional Video Shannon i used these kits to do my basement 26x56 framed all in 2x2 and my Garage 24x40 x12 2x6 construction Garage Myself took 4 days to complete just after New Construction got quotes from 3 different Pro Company’s and the cheapest it could be done with 2in in the basement and 4in in the garage only outside walls was 23,650.......Highest Quote was 27,323 i did the whole job myself and did layers just as you did just invested in a large bag of fan tips and it cost me just under 10,000 including my time at $30 pr hour 24 hrs total.......The Happy Dance....🗯🥳🤪
J Martin
Are you saying you spent $9000 in Foam?
This is similar to what I'm planning with my own remodel. I'll just be doing one room at a time as it will be a live in remodel. And due to being a live in I can't afford to rip everything out all at once to spray and then recover. For me the costs of the kits would be will spent in comparison to living in a hotel due the entire time of the tear out, electrical prep, HVAC prep, plumbing prep, shooting the walls/floors/ceilings, and then covering it all back up.
I tried this now I’m stuck in my wall, send help Shannon
I've been very interested in this type of insulation. Thank you for taking the time to show how it's done.
Truthseeker how far do those kits go?
It's crap if you want to do any work in the future
@@DemnRaig80 I run conduit for wiring (mostly Cat5/6, so 1") first so re-wiring is easier. I don't really see much need to open up walls otherwise
This guy is so Canadian my computer is leaking maple syrup!!
Omg that is awesome!
Greatest comment in man kind 🤯🤯🤯
😂😂 Tata
🤣😂😅🤩
REHEHEHEHEHHEHEHEHE
I used foam on one room as a trial. I foamed it up to the studs. Result? AMAZING!
One thing that I did learn prior to trying was to always use CLOSED CELL foam. It will not soak up water and cause problems. It also acts as its own vapor barrier. As I refurbish my house I will foam each room as I go. Should drop my heat load by a very great degree. Why is it so expensive? I would guess because of how much it saves in fuel over the long haul. Not only that, but your home will be quieter and move comfortable.
Thanks for that info. Looking at doing this very soon. On my house as we rebuild it.
@@loushear4497 One thing to keep in mind tho... Houses are designed for a certain rate of air infiltration to assist in a healthy rate of fresh air exchange and humidity.
When houses are 'excessively' air tight, an Energy Recovery Unit is often used to make up for the lack of fresh air. Also, if your house is heated by gas or oil fired appliances (boilers or furnaces), they also need a source of unrestricted fresh air.
@@burnerjack01 no gas anything. Do you think walls and ceiling would be a bit much? I'm new to this as you can see.
@@loushear4497 I really can't say. I would do it. Absolutely.
Just saying you may be setting yourself for "Sick Building Syndrome" (as best as I can recall).
It's stagnant air that's the issue.
Mold can become a real issue for you depending on your locale and temps.
With bldg management and HVAC designing, it's always a battle between energy efficiency and health and comfort.
Just saying before you go all in, do some research and always keep in mind that there are a lot of good and a lot of "hungry" contractors out there.
Be thorough in your research and understand the 'micro environment your creating. Don't mean to be alarming, it's just that a lot of people don't really understand the big picture and they really need to.
I pulled all the insulation out of my place last week. It was not even tact into place, looks like someone set it and put up drywall. It was piled up at the bottom of the walls. I am almost done spray foaming all the walls. Been using a guitar string to level it all with the studs and a putty knife to clean up the studs. Next is the roof and basement.
are you using the guitar sting to cut off the excess foam sticking above the stud's after it has cured?
Very educational!
Thanks for including your thoughts behind using several layers. Very helpful!
If the foam is closed-cell, it is its own vapor barrier, and trimming will be fine, as the next tiny cell down is closed anyway. If it is open-cell foam you will need to add a seperate vapor barrier, whether you trim it or not. The can should tell you which type.
Thanks Shannon and the Crew . Always love your video's
I love the way you explain stuff man. Keep it like that!
Great video !!!
Brake cleaner from the auto parts store will clean those tips out before the foam starts to harden up and set up so you can reuse them.
WE use the commercial version of this stuff in the factory where I work.
Part A and part B come in 300 gallon tanks and are kept at like 85 degrees far. , so yes it IS VERY important those tanks be kept warm.
The hose assemblies also have heating tape inside of them to keep that stuff warm also so it doesn't cool.
It affects the mixture balance as well as the velocity of it out the gun.
Ours use a nitrogen gas purge valve on the guns also to blow out the chemicals after the timed shot has been finished.
We use a full face shield and a hat on the head for face and head protection.
If using this stuff overhead , please use earplugs....for obvious reasons.
If you get it in your hair just let it set up and pick it out later after it sets up if it's a small tiny bit otherwise get the brake cleaner out and spray it into a rag to get it out before it sets.
It gets messy.
I know one guy who got it sprayed big time into his hair.
He had to cut all his hair off.
He wasn't wearing a hood or hat either.
Good tips thanks
Acetone
I don’t even own a house but this is cool to watch. 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻😂😂😂
Holy shit!!! I'm enthralled! I'm learning about remodeling my trailer. Hit and miss but it's my home!
good point about compromising the vapor barrier.
Dude took 16 of 21 minutes just to jaw. Legend.
Damn....that's a better pattern then some $75K rigs.....yes I know technique also!!! Good video
Thanks 👍
Good explanation and demo video--thanks for posting. One thing however, while this stuff does seal well, I would still add a vapour barrier as the wood framing is not covered with this product, so to be truly a top notch job I would still add one. If however, you sprayed the concrete wall first and had a stud wall built clear of it, I would say you could skip the vapour barrier.
@Dale e Sounds like you had an unusually bad experience. I was referring to a vapour barrier applied over the wood framing and insulation before adding your gypsum board to prevent humidity penetrating from the inside. Any moisture problems coming in from the exterior of the concrete requires a barrier on the exterior side as well as proper drainage. Did your spray foam break down? That's surprising--wonder if any other people had that happen?
16:50 can you talk about how you avoided poor mixing by opening both tanks fully? Kind of a big point
depending on the kit you purchase they will list how to get the best mix with their products.
yeah it depends on the kit
@@HouseImprovements what is the kit brand name? Which store selling it? And how much?
Awesome video! Thank you! I feel more confident using this now!
The thing about the nozzle drying up was my first question. Thank you.
Going to use this on our off grid barn. Thanks for the tips.
Excellent!
I had just poured up a bowl of leftover, cured, spray foam scrapings when you said "don't eat it". Buzzkill.
Very nicely presented. Thank you for your generosity with your time.
You're welcome, George.
Do your petroleum jelly to get your tip ready. Great advice for multiple facets of life.
+Betty Olson LOL!
Betty Olson works great Bettty
I always keep my tip lubed just in case!
Go old school, just spit on the tip.
Funny that's what she said!
I insulated my living room’s addition in the same fashion as your pink panel insulation with spray foam around the ridges (off to the side of the video). One thing I did was left the R-11 bat faced insulation in place, that was still in good condition. Then, I placed the 1-1/2” pink panel insulation in behind it, and sealed up the edges. I was told this would probably more than double my R value which was only R-11 in sometimes weeks of -40F temperatures. I also had the underside of my floor down in the crawl space, and along the main crawlspace which holds the water lines, had just up the walls sprayed and reflectix paneled the dirt floor. What I missed as a new homeowner and 1st home!! I have a cinderblock foundation around both the main home and it’s addition. The cold air comes up through the cinderblocks that rest on a 6” concrete foundation, my next project is to get some sort of concrete drill and then spray foam down into each cell of the blocks.
i think you should let the first application dry then go for a second one to get the 2" thickness. I believe it needs to dry out and get the chemicals do the reaction.
The Froth Paks are extremely fast curing.
I would have gave everything one coat first just in case you run out and end up w/a cavity w/ no foam at all. Too expensive for a DIY guy to buy another kit to finish. Maybe finish w/ can foam?
Thanks Shannon you are awesome, your videos are very HELPFUL!
Well, consider this. TigerFoam offers 600 square foot kits for $600. Consider a home that has roughly 3570 square feet of wall to cover (windows and doors already taken out = 130 square feet). You would need to purchase 6 (six) kits to cover this area at 3" (3 inches) thick.
However, if you were to hire a "Professional" (I received a quote for this) the same area, and the closed cell foam with labor costs comes out to $11,234.00
Which, for those that can't do math very well: $11,234 - $3,600 = $7,634 in savings.
Tell me again why its better to get a "Professional?"
+Jeff M Ok there is one problem with your math. The tiger foam is 600 sq.ft. at 1" thick. So if you want 3" one kit only does 200Sq.ft So the math is this : 11234 -10800. = 434$. So if your labour is worth anything The pro is a better deal plus I believe a good pro is a better product as far as consistency . Also I have never had a DIY kit yield as good as they are supposed to.
That figure I gave was accounting for this. 3" of foam, covering roughly 1200 square feet of wall. I guess I should've included that detail. So, it is still the $3600. That also doesn't take out the studs, so this too will add another 6% of product for use.
It's not. You explained it very well. I couldn't have said it any better myself. Nicely done!
+Jeff M Ever see what happens when you spray the foam in the wrong conditions? Try spraying the foam when it's incredibly humid and hot, it won't cure properly - ever. Kits IMO should only be used if it's a small area, and the humidity and temperature can be controlled for the entire curing process. Professionals will usually be able to compensate for differences in climate when it comes to new construction, where as a DIY guy wont know the first thing about the off the shelf foam he just bought, and won't understand what will happen long-term.
+Jeff M Your math is not right. The 600 kit is 600 sq. ft. at one inch. If you do have 3750 square feet and are looking for 3" then it is actually 3" x 3750. This is now 11250 board foot divided by 600 per kit. 18 plus kits is what you need. 18 kits x $600 per is actually $10,800 just for materials. Trust me people I have been a professional applicator and estimator for nine plus years. For a small project these are great if proper prep and safety is performed. But anything larger then about 1200 bd. ft. and you can have it done professionally dollar for dollar with someone else having the hassle and liability. One other thought, these tanks weigh 60lbs each (can get old quick moving these around a site) and you need to make sure your area will allow you to dispose of them. Hope this helps. Thanks Jeff B.
Good for insulating the back cargo area of metal vans as they have non-uniform shapes with nooks and crannies. If that space will be heated then insulation will be needed to prevent condensation, if it's cold outside the van.
yes that is a good use for this
Are those wires in the wall hanging for a purpose... I mean.. Someone has gone to some length to drill them holes in specific locations so that the wire makes that hanging shape. Wouldn't it be better to try and keep them close to the ceiling or the floor so that in the future people wont accidentally drill into them?!
The way I saw it the wires were on the back sides of the studs and not drilled through at all.
If you rotate your fan at an angle you won't overlap so much and the rows will be thicker.
If you apply this to a concrete block-above grade- new construction home, do you have to seal the blocks on the interior with a moisture barrier? Thanks for a thorough presentation.
IMO ,I do not think so.
Foam does mold if exsposed to moisture...
We would spray block and concrete basements on the outside from foundation footings up to the top amd only the exposed foam would need to be sprayed with a UV protectant and a fire shield.
Love your videos Shannon. This one is particularly helpful.
trees dirt Shannon is the man!
Thank you for the great video. Excellent job explaining.
You make a good point in that that is open cell foam with all the disadvantages thereof. Do they even make DIY kit with closed cell dense foam. I understand that the light weight open cell will contract in a few days/weeks as it final cures and pull away from the perimeter. Not a good thing. Doug
did this stuff for a few years, just rub motor oil on anything you dont want it to stick to and it will pull right off. Like your studs
You did a great job. Very professional and helpful Thank you Shannon.
I watched your video on spray foam application; how do you think this product would work in an attic ceiling with irregularly spaced trusses in a 1904 house?
This would be the “easiest”, I think, as it’d save me having to buy lumber to reframe the trusses to regular spacing to fit common fibreglass batts.
That's exactly what I'm thinking about doing...but I don't know anything. 😄can we or should we spray wood with it? Like ceiling in basement also?
So satisfying to watch
This foam is good for edges, even if you do insulation panels or fiber panels.
Great technology for smaller areas. It's smelly and what not, but effective.
There are now more and more insulation tools and materials, I think it's a good trend, because the heating is contribution to the climate change a lot. I think we can also all save on heating cost, once the insulation is easy and affordable.
no this is not a good trend because as soon as we get enough global warming than we wont have to use as much heat to warm our houses GLOBAL WARMING FUCK YA! DUMB FUCK climate change is make believe its all about the money 99 % of scientist agree climate change is made up to initiate a world wide carbon tax to enslave global population
So many idiots still alive I guess Darwins rules of evolution are not working now or you probably believe the world was made in seven days LOL. All climate change means is the weather is changing and is getting more severe however the reason the numbers and facts don't lie unlike idiots like you, happy inbreeding :)
How do I get spray foam here in Zambia
Look up Global Solar Minimum that is real climate change. Always follow the money on all issues.
If you get a wrong mixture you can also get off-gassing which can cause a sick house that people are actually having to rip large portions of their homes down to correct.
So, how many square feet did you get out of this 2000 kit? Thanks for the great video.
Its a 200 kit, 200 board feet to square feet. I just dont know the conversion off hand
@@GemCityRCOutlaws A board foot is actually a measure of volume. By definition, a board foot is one square foot, one inch thick. The most common mistake made in calculating board footage is forgetting to multiply by the thickness. Example 1: A 4/4 board 8 inches wide and 8 feet long has 5.33 bd.ft.
Great video. Was very helpful and was great in prepping me to do the job. Came out great.
How long does foam last until it starts to deteriorate?
18 months
The only problem I can see is when you hang drywall over it. It won’t lay flat because the foam is jutting out of the space causing the sheet not to lay flat against the studs. The finished wall will be wavy. I don’t know of any customer that would accept that.
the cost is way to high for the kits,better to do what was done on the right side,foam board and spray foam on the perimeter
Yep I agree. These kits are hard to use even for everyday handy person. I sprayed a little structure over my well. Very messy and hard to get depth wanted. Plus insects loved it and quickly moved in boring all kinds of holes/tunnels.
Hi Shannon thanks for all the info. Can you please share the manufacture of the kit that you are using on this video.
Shannon - although some of your tips are spot on, you make several dangerous mistakes in this video - You should never spray another layer on top of rising foam that has not cured, becasue the new layer prevents the first layer from fully curing. As a result, the finished product will not have the full R-value, could cause off-gasing, could become flammable, among other hazards. This is one of many reasons it IS NOT A DIY PROJECT. The printed instructions should explain this but the average layman would not understand this.
Thanks for pointing that out. He should have window boxed with the spray, then a single pass fill vertically and moved onto the next section allowing the prior sections to cure 100% then go back to the first section after and make the vertical pass.
Small tip, if you need to warm your tanks up, you can place them in a warm bathtub of water for an hour or so.
That was a good video thank you.
Cool first time Mom here subscribed and learned a lot and I appreciate it and I thank you exactly what I wanted to know thanks again
How's stuff like this for sound deadening vs something like Roxul?
I would imagine closed cell is fantastic. This is one reason why I'm doing spray foam vs bat insulation.
Honest opinion, I’m renovating house I just bought. I need to use closed cell as per engineer. 1200 square foot house. Doing all walls and roof joists. Had estimates from pros for 11k.
Is this something I can do myself?
Great video. Informative.
No, I would never attempt more than 400-600 sq. feet of surface with these kits. Have the pros come in they will be in and out and you can move on with the project. There are many other places you can DIY on this project that will be more cost and time effective.
HouseImprovements thank you! I will follow your advice!
I just set the speed of the play back to play at 1.5.... saves you time...
BRILLIANT!
Great video. Do you have a video on framing the lower level of a raised ranch, similar to what is in your background? I need to renovate and will end up re-framing. Don't think I caught that in your framing video.
*79 dead: The Foam Insulation blaze that ripped through the Grenfell Tower, London, causing multiple deaths (79 confirmed / 120+ estimated) has prompted widespread commentary on the Foam Insulation Industry. A Criminal investigation into the Foam Installation Contractors concerned is now taking place. It appears there will be a criminal prosecutions for corporate manslaughter for those concerned whose acts or unsafe products committed the offence. In the case of the Grenfell Tower fire, the most likely prosecution candidates would be the building’s management company, and the insulation contractors and sub-contractors involved in the property refurbishment in which apparently highly flammable foam materials were fitted as insulation.*
The foam insulation in the Grenfell tower tragedy was rigid flat panels, pre-made in a factory and attached onsite. Tragically, the many contractors and people involved used the wrong products, installed the wrong way in the wrong places for the wrong purposes. Sad tragedy but Hopefully the investigation results it will lead to better regulations, better oversight, better testing to prevent this in the future. And Hopefully All the existing screwed up buildings that made similar mistakes will somehow get retrofitted (corrected) to avoid a similar tragedy.
*The flat panels comprised the outer facade frontage, behind them was a slab of insulation foam, this ignited and aided the fire progress. What needs to be said is many products have fire certificates yet fail during a fierce blaze if enough heat is applied to them. Foam is not made to fight fires but to conserve heat. Foam burns and end of story*.
@@pipersson9258 The foam used in that case was extruded polyethylene. Caution with foam is absolutely warranted, but what is critical is that the right product is used in the right application, which that was not. Closed-cell foam like that most commonly used for high insulation value in the US can be purchased in a fire-rated form as well. www.greenbuildingadvisor.com/article/building-errors-were-behind-grenfell-tragedy
Hello thank you for your video. I would like to shoot some urethane on my inside wall block basement but my question is
They install some 1X1 and gysproc after that old style I know…
What I should do before ?
Blow my wall before ? or after installing urethane .
And what kind of materials
Hello, is it true that using the spray foam on the entire house for new construction is a bad idea, because it will not allow the home to breath and also you cannot run wires in the future? A builder recently told me this when I was looking into what insulation to go with for my new home build. Thanks!
It is used in new homes a lot actually. Maybe your builder is not comfortable with it?
Thanks for replying back.
If you are that worried about future wiring, I would run conduit if possible. Then you can use single conductors instead of romex.
If you use closed cell there is still a space.
You have to add makeup air if the building envelop is that tight.
You have problems running wires behind any covering on walls, however you can make a nice straight hole in this stuff with an red hot ball bearing doped from the top down. This is how they run wires in Sip's homes.
Heat cuts right into this stuff like butter. So you can fish wires with a red hot poker. Wile wire isn't always going to be where you need it anyway. But I'd plan ahead and run the wires before Sheetrock any walls even plan on what you might run a few years from now like Cat 5e or 6e or even fiber.
They make an inexpensive home use plastic fiber you can terminate later if its in the walls for later use. also you can run Low voltage wires for lighting upgrades. Homes are moving more to Automation so new stuff comes out everyday.
Just plan ahead.
Hey If I told you in 1903 to run copper wires next to your gas lines for lights, you would not had to hire an electrician to come wire up your home a few years later. I think cat 5e and 6e as well as fiber will be around for a few years anyway. Wired home phones are all but going out of style, and cable TV coax is going out of style, only other thing is Power wires and speaker cable's and or Thermostats.
I really do not think your going to change wires all that much anyway, and I'll bet you would have moved out of that house after about 10 years or so anyway.
The money you can save from Spray Foam over fiberglass insulation is a lot in energy cost, he's giving bad advice. but thats my 2 cents on it.
Could you possibly paint on some kind of vinyl paint on those parts you cut with the knife? That would reseal the vapor barrier?
Hi Shannon, great video, as always. Are there different types of spray foams, I've heard the terms closed cell and open cell, where would you use each or could you use one over the top of the other? And also, what might a typical "R" value be for foam per inch as opposed to spun glass or mineral wool? Thanks, and keep up thegoodwork!
Dave
Good demo, Shannon, thanks. Polystyrene foam does cause problems with PVC wire insulation, so DIYers should avoid that combo.
Expanding foam is compatible with all materials except human skin - and the old 1960's polystyrene granules are not harmful to PVC cables apart from being an attractive irritant.Sep 28, 2010
Thanks for the video. What is the soundproofing like with this spray foam? Also would it be wise to put some other protective layer on top of it all before putting on dry wall incase some chemicals are let off?
Tip: spray everything once and then if you need to touch up anything do it after spraying everything the first time. It’s obvious You didn’t read the instructions it says right in the instructions don’t spray something twice immediately it says after you sprayed everything then go back and spray again if you needed to it gives the first coat to set up it even says in the instructions if you go over it twice within a few seconds it won’t set up properly that’s why you spray everything first by the time you get back to where you started it will have had already set up.
Interesting I have never seen that stated. makes sense however.
Thanks for the advice, I've been thinking about doing this.
Shannon, Do I need to use the plastic anchor to attach foam board insulation sheets to my concrete basements walls? So far we've used adhesive to attach the insulation to the walls.
If the adhesive is working well stick with it.
Is it inflammable? Can we install it in our kitchen?
It must be covered with a fire protection like drywall or something like that.
Smoke a cigarette while you are applying it and let us know
That's the downside, very flammable as is rigid foam board.
inflammable. Very easily set on fire.
Not once it is cured.
This stuff is so flammable
It was only $200 to get a pro to do my sprinter van, but over spray is rear hard to remove. and only get a pro that will use 2 lb foam on a van or trailer.
good deal
Makes great bumper cars. Hardly any dents.
I am in the process of making a small room in the Garage - need your advise on how to insulate it better?
Our forum is the place to ask questions.www.house-improvements.com/forums/
cables are all over the place
Hi Shannon. I plan to do this for my garage ceiling because the room above it is freezing in the winter. Do I do one pass first, then go back to do a second pass? Does each one pass get 2" thick when cured. What is a good thickness? When done, just cover with drywall without vapor barrier? Finally, is it necessary to spray the mix into the garbage before putting nozzle on? Or can I just put nozzle tip and start spraying. Much appreciated and thank you for a good video.
You will figure out a speed that will give you a 2" thickness with one pass. Spraying into the can with out tip is recommended by manufacture.
Hi Shannon,
Thanks Shannon for the video with its informative and detailed instructions. I debating whether to buy a kit or get a professional to do it. I do have someone coming over tomorrow to give a price. I will post the results tomorrow. In reading the comments this foam your using is a closed cell foam and made by Froth Pak..... I've been buying stuff on Ebay now you can get up to 1 year no interest with Pay Pal Credit that's better than using your Lowes card for purchases over $300, which usually offers only six months no interest. Which is awesome in trying to remodel a house.....I have a question that looks like Energy Shelf House has asked and I'm hoping you can answer it? When applying this foam on ceilings does it work with the do it yourself kits? The videos I've watched for spraying foam on ceilings usually the machine is a real expensive looking machine not the do it yourself kits.
I have an attic that I converted into a second floor. It has cathedral ceilings. It is framed with true 2 x 4 ceiling rafters (joists). I have two turbines and have closed the ridge vent. I'm interested in the spray foam because of the r factor and that it does not mold. I'm living in Arkansas where it is humid and very hot in the summer about 100 degrees. If you could answer this question and also the company you recommend to get it from I'd appreciate it. You make it all look so easy...... I would respect and trust your advice. Thanks so much........
Using these systems should work fine working overhead, i personally have never used one on rafters but can't see why they would not work. Cover yourself head to toe as it could get a little messy. If you have a lot to do a foam contractor would be cheaper in most cases.
HouseImprovements very cool. how much did one of those 2 tank kits cost?
I was thinking about using these kits for installing spray foam in my attic. But I discovered that it was far less expensive to hire a professional to do it. It is MUCH more cost effective to hire a professional foam insulation installation company. Harrisonburg, Virginia
What's the name of your spray foam insulation company LOL
I own a spray foam business. These DIY kits are bad and I'll tell you why. First off unless the job is so incredibly tiny, it would be cheaper for you to hire a professional applicator and have everything done verses buying a kit and still having to do it yourself. Secondly who out there follows 100% of the safety rules out there? Those filtered masks aren't approved for interior work, because they don't filter out 100% of harmful fumes. Exposure to Isocyanate fumes can have very negative side affects to your respiratory system. As an applicator, our fresh air is pumped to us from outside the structure. They are full face mask because even fume exposure to the eyes is bad. So save yourself money, time, and the health hazard and just have it professionally done.
These kits in my opinion are best for small jobs or remote areas where hiring a pro like your self is usually to expensive. I do agree that a fresh air respirator would be best but for the average person doing maybe one to five of these canisters in their lifetime the risks are minimal when following the manufactures instructions. I do appreciate your input, thank you.
well..obviously....we would expect to hear you whine and complain about a diy kit. ...safety is for wimps. It just isn't fun it you can't catch a buzz off the fumes
I've got to agree with this guy, also from what I remember reading (may be wrong on this, it's been a while) but the empty tanks are considered hazardous waste and have to be disposed of accordingly. but the price to coverage is really the biggest issue, much cheaper to higher it out to someone that knows what they are doing, and if you can't budget for full spray foam you can use a method called "flash and batt", this is where in a modern 2x6 house they spray an inch of spray foam to seal the wall then use typical batt insulation to achieve the code required (or better) r-value, the benefit of this is the spray foam seals any airleaks that normal batts would allow to penetrate the building envelope but is a cheaper option vs. a full thickness spray foaming of a house.
A flash and batt could be slightly cheaper, but by the time you figure in the cost of the fiberglass you may as well have just had a full 3 inches of closed cell foam for $2.35 a sqft. You won't save much. 1 inch generally runs $1+ and fiberglass installed is $1+ depending on the batt. Where 3 inches of closed cell is going to get you close to a true R21. Fiberglass at a r19 in a 2x6 wall will only perform at that in a controlled laboratory, never in real world conditions.
HouseImprovements I was recently quoted a rate of about $2.50 per sq. ft to do 960 square feet in three shipping containers. The location is about 50 miles from the company offering the service. I got a price on the materials as you are using here. I should save about a $1,000 on the job. I appreciate the video so thanks.
Is this OK for a plain bedroom insulation (for outside walls)? Should we leave massonry weep-holes open or cover them with the foam, please? Thank you
Masonry weep holes should be left open
Im the only 14 year old here watching this at 4 A.m.
Am i surprised?
No.
Could you use these kits to fill concrete blocks as you were laying them if you put a hose over the end of the nozzle and filled about 3 rows of block at a time
Can you use this stuff to spray the inside of a metal van?
Sure could
That's a great idea.
did my sprinter van with spray foam and it made it way cooler in summer
totally doing that for my conversion, thanks for the idea
You can use the foam for adhering the shag carpet, just spray it on then slap some carpet over it before it dries.
Nice video on how to convert a house into hazardous waste..
How come Canadians make good explainers? like skill y’all learn early or something?
The dust from scraping is actually as dangerous inhaled as the vapour is when spraying
R-Value is kind of meaningless when you have thermal bridging every two feet where there is a wood stud!
Vince Stagbaugh Most all structures have some sort of thermal bridging in areas, are you saying we might as well not insulate?
R value is just a meaningless number period when trying to compare insulation performance of Fiberglas and cellulose
HouseImprovements
Most structures are badly insulated. At least it's a bit better than 50 years ago, but we are in no way close to what should be done for insulation* to be meaningful in term of economy and environment.
It isn't meaningless at all, in fact new building codes consider the effect of bridging in calculating the performance of an insulated wall.
To achieve r24 performance in a 2x6 stud wall 16"oc will actually require more than r24 insulation, I don't have the tables for calculating it right now but on my own house I have 1/2" interior sheathing for r1, air layer for r .5, r24 rated mineral wool batts, exterior sheathing for r1, exterior xps rigid foam for r10. 36.5 total but the effective insulation was something like r32 when considering the conduction through wood members and effectively uninsulated space due to that bridging.
I think a standard old wall, 2x4 16oc with r20 has an effective value of about r17.2.
actually since the area of the studs are quite small compared to the area of the adjacent insulation and the R values are in parallel, the studs have a small impact on heat transfer. if you read and learn about heat transfer using simple circuit equivalents it is pretty straight forward.
Does the foam stop water intrusion? Termites? Closed or open cell foam? Thanks
JoeB