Perfect timing...as I have a 34-400 on my bench right now. You did a very comprehensive rebuild, as opposed to a rattle can 'tuneup' and that was what I was hoping to see. While my table is in a little bit better condition, my original motor has been replaced with a 2hp Dayton. Not too mad at it, but would have been nice to show off that 50+ year old Rockwell motor. Thanks for taking the time to show off your 'new' saw!
Glad you enjoyed it. The rehab turned out well. These are great saws and will last a couple lifetimes if taken care of. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice restoration , I just picked up an almost identical saw as far as the condition that I'm fixing to start my own restoration. As far as I can tell mine is a 34 425 between 55 and 57 model. I enjoyed your video . Thanks for sharing.
Good find. Those are good saws when cleaned up and dialed in. Good luck on your restoration. Keep me posted on your progress. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@elwellboy sure will. I have a question that you may be able to help me with . If the motor isn't mounted on the back of the saw but on the case , then how can the saw cut on a bevel if the motor is stationary? I assume that I need to put a motor mounting bracket on it , or am I mistaken?
@@shannonmurray6145 The motor mounts to a bracket that is bolted to the trunnion so that the motor moves with the trunnion for a bevel cut. There are actually two pieces - a cast iron piece that bots to the trunnion and a steel motor bracket that holds the motor and is connected to the cast iron piece. If you don’t have those parts you might find them on eBay. I believe I’ve seen them before. Hope that helps. Good luck.
@@elwellboy thanks for the response and that's what I thought I knew but being way older than anything else I have felt with I was just making sure there wasn't something I wasn't aware of. The previous owner had it set up in his shop for dovetails, mortise and tenon work and is mounted in a fixed position and there is nothing on the back of the trunion and yes I've already located 5 or 6 motor bracket and mounting plates on the web. Thanks again for your input I'll be making sawdust with it as soon as I can get one purchased . Take it easy Bro
Great Video! Lots of hands on hints! I picked up a 34-426 I from what I can tell it’s in decent shape, but right off it seems much of the chrome is missing from the round graduated rails. Has anyone had their tubes re chromed?
Nice - Good shop saw. I'm sure you could find a chrome shop that could do it. Also, I've seen rails in pretty good condition on eBay. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
God Im so jealous of you I wish I had the extension leaves and original stand for mine too! Great solid little saw, mine unfortunately is the NINe inch one.
Thanks for the video. I picked up one of these for $100, and I see that the bevel quadrant gear segment is worn. I believe this happened because the dust shield was missing. It still works, but I wonder for how long. I'll also need to replace the arbor bearings (6203-2RS). On my Yates-American saw, instead of pressing in the bearings as shown here, I put the bearings in dry ice for an hour or so, and then heated the arbor casting. The bearings slipped in easily with finger pressure. I removed the cabinet without disturbing the arbor carriage by undoing the 4 bolts and removing the handwheels, roll pins, and beveI shaft guide on the side of the cabinet. This saved the labor of realigning the arbor carriage to the miter slots. I'll need to buy or make a wing for the right side. A wing of any desired width can be made as a torsion box, using yardsticks for the interior 3#x3" grid and 1/8" hardboard for the skins. Recently I've seen HDPE sheets that might make an excellent surface, if the thermal expansion of the HDPE isn't too great. Finally, I don't care about original colors. In particular, I paint the inside of the cabinet and underside of the table white or yellow. This makes it much easier to see inside if something needs adjustment. For the outside, I may go red or turquoise blue.
good video. I'm working on a similar delta rockwell saw, and I need to replace the bearings on the spindle. I've been avoiding a full disassembly. I dont want to restore it just get it back to work. I am thinking there is no way to replace the bearings without taking it all apart.
Maybe not a "full" disassembly but you'll need to take the table off and remove the arbor assembly to replace the bearings. It's not too bad. Maybe an 1 to 2 hours. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Awesome work! I just bought the same saw in an auction and would like to restore it. . My biggest challenge is to restore the motor. Yours seems to be a (62-751) Somehow the label is mostly unreadable. The capacitor is missing. I have been looking for pictures of this motor with no luck. Then, I found your video. Would you kindly please send me a close up picture of your label? Hopefully, I could make it work again!
Unfortunately, I no longer have the saw. I sold it shortly after completing the restoration. Rather than restoring the motor, I'd suggest focusing getting the saw restored and then look online (eBay, Craigslist, etc) for a suitible motor or maybe locate a good electric motor repair shop and see if they have any suggestions. Good luck. These are good saws and worth restoring. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can this disassembly be done without the big impact wrench? I have a big vise and some long breaker bars. I am glad I found your video. Lots of tips that I did not know about as I am trying to restore my 9-inch Rockwell table saw.
You sure can. No need for impact wrench but it made things a bit easier. Good luck on your restoration. Great vintage saws. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Did you forget the bushing or spacer between the two arbor bearings or just choose to leave it off since the bearngs both seat into the casting and that spacer can make alot of noise sometimes?
Nice job! I just purchased a model 10 today that needs a little TLC on the top of the table. Did you put any type of sealer on the top after you had removed the rust? Thanks!
I didn't put anything on the top after cleaning it up. However, a good coat of paste wax is a good idea to make the table a little smoother and keeps rust from starting. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Here is the link to the manual I used. www.mikestools.com/download/Delta-Parts-Lists/34-425-10-Inch-Tilting-Arbor-Bench-Saw-PM-1822-34-425.pdf Hope this helps. Good luck on your restoration. These are good solid machines. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have an almost exact saw that has an issue with the blade not retracting all the way down, it stays about 1/8 inch above the throat plate when cranked all the way down. Any ideas on how to adjust that? Thanks
Where the raising screw engages with the raising gear on the trunion may be a bit out of adjustment and not letting the trunion go all the way down. You should be able to adjust the collars on the raising screw to move closer to the raising gear. Hope that helps. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have found that eBAY is the best place to find parts. Do a search on Delta Rockwell and scroll through the results. You might also try RENOVOParts.com - I have found several hard to find vintage parts there. They have Delta Rockwell section. Hope you can find one - these are good old machines. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Go to this link - wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx - a great source for identifying and various details on vintage machinery. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi, thank you so much for the video. I’m a woman who hasn’t used many saws of any sort much, but I have recently gotten into rockhounding & lapidary interests. My father passed away a few years ago & this is 1 of many tools/instruments he left to me. I am curious if this would be an appropriate saw for cutting rocks. I understand it matters the type of blade that is used for which ever material that would be cut. But my husband said it was only for wood. I just have a feeling he prefers to just use it for wood & not necessarily CANT BE❓⁉️🤨 Any information would be greatly appreciated. Take care
Glad you enjoyed the video. This is NOT a saw for sawing rocks. I don't do much work with rock or stones but would suggest that you'd want a saw that has some sort of water bath with a diamond blade. Something like a tile saw. Do some research on rock saw and check Amazon. You might me able to find a reasonably priced solution to fit your requirement. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Assuming that is the serial number - the following link indicates that it is a 1949 model made in Milwaukee, WI. wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx There is alot of information publications available at: vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=3 Look through the machines listed and you'll likely find your machine. Hope this helps. Good luck with your project. Thanks for watching and commenting.
You might try Renovo - link below - I've found a number of vintage parts there. Also, try searching on eBay. www.renovoparts.com/ Good luck getting your saw back in action. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Perhaps. Were you able to find a serial number? If it's not on a plate on the cabinet, it may be somewhere on the underside of the table. If so, you can look up when/where that serial number was manufactured. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
Sorry - I don't have the wiring diagram. If you're looking to change from 110V to 220V that diagram is usually on the motor. If not, you can probably find it online. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can you tell me the type of paint used? I may be restoring an old WT table saw and want to make sure I'm using a good durable paint. Thanks for the info!
I use Rustoleum - Dark Machine Gray - on my vintage Delta Rockwell machines. It's not a perfect match but pretty close. It seems to hold up pretty well too. Good luck with your WT restoration. Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Your issue is most likely that the blade isn't square with the table. Suggest you check that the blade is square with the miter gauge as a starting point. I use a dial caliper or indicator. Raise the blade to it's highest - mark a tooth with a sharpie level with the table. Measure the distance from the edge of the miter slot - rotate the blade so the mark is on the other side level with the table and measure again. Those measurements should be equal. If not then then the table is not square with the blade. Not sure what model of saw you have but most of the Rockwell/Delta cabinet saws have four bolts under the table that secure the table to the cabinet. To adjust the table, loosen 3 of the bolts - with a rubber or wood mallet bump a corner of the table to close the gap that you measured. It won't take much. Remeasure to see how close it is - repeat if necessary until the two measurements are equal or within .001 or so. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice video. I just picket up one similar, a 34-400. I was wondering where you procured the bearings for the arbor? Also, in older documentation, it looks like there was a riving knife for these. Do you have a suggestion for adding one as the original parts are discontinued? Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Just do a search for arbor bearings for your model and you'll find lots of sources for bearings. You'll have a rough time finding a riving knife - if in fact your model had one. Only suggestion would be to check eBay, craigslist or vintagemachinery.org. Good luck on your rebuild. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great video, thanks. Look at Shark Guard for a riving knife. I have the same model I bought new and it came with a splitter only that is not very good. At that point in time (mid 80’s when I bought it) riving knifes we’re not a requirement.
I have used Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray on my restorations. Not an exact match but pretty darn close. There are some online posts with a mix formula that claims to be the same as original. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have never seen an extension for the 1460 lathe. If you needed an extension you could add another bed which could theoretically double the length capacity. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
If you mean the table top on the restored table saw, I've since sold it so can't get the dimensions. You could probably find dimensions by search for the model number. If you mean my welding table/work bench table, it is 40" x 84". Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Addendum to my note below: I changed out the arbor bearings while the casting was in place on the carriage, and this made things unnecessarily difficult. It would have been easier to just tap out the pivot pin and take the arbor casting out to work with it on the bench. Also, there is a spring washer placed between the casting and the flange side bearing. Finally, it was necessary to cut the flange side bearing apart with a Dremel cutoff wheel, which was tedious but effective.
Sounds like a lot of work. I prefer to take everything apart so I can really inspect the parts for cracks, wear, etc. and do the work on the bench. Good luck on your restoration.
Perfect timing...as I have a 34-400 on my bench right now. You did a very comprehensive rebuild, as opposed to a rattle can 'tuneup' and that was what I was hoping to see. While my table is in a little bit better condition, my original motor has been replaced with a 2hp Dayton. Not too mad at it, but would have been nice to show off that 50+ year old Rockwell motor. Thanks for taking the time to show off your 'new' saw!
Glad you enjoyed it. Hope it helps in getting your saw back to like new condition. They are great saws. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice work!
Glad you enjoyed it. The rehab turned out well. These are great saws and will last a couple lifetimes if taken care of. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice restoration , I just picked up an almost identical saw as far as the condition that I'm fixing to start my own restoration. As far as I can tell mine is a 34 425 between 55 and 57 model. I enjoyed your video . Thanks for sharing.
Good find. Those are good saws when cleaned up and dialed in. Good luck on your restoration. Keep me posted on your progress. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@elwellboy sure will. I have a question that you may be able to help me with . If the motor isn't mounted on the back of the saw but on the case , then how can the saw cut on a bevel if the motor is stationary? I assume that I need to put a motor mounting bracket on it , or am I mistaken?
@@shannonmurray6145 The motor mounts to a bracket that is bolted to the trunnion so that the motor moves with the trunnion for a bevel cut. There are actually two pieces - a cast iron piece that bots to the trunnion and a steel motor bracket that holds the motor and is connected to the cast iron piece. If you don’t have those parts you might find them on eBay. I believe I’ve seen them before. Hope that helps. Good luck.
@@elwellboy thanks for the response and that's what I thought I knew but being way older than anything else I have felt with I was just making sure there wasn't something I wasn't aware of. The previous owner had it set up in his shop for dovetails, mortise and tenon work and is mounted in a fixed position and there is nothing on the back of the trunion and yes I've already located 5 or 6 motor bracket and mounting plates on the web. Thanks again for your input I'll be making sawdust with it as soon as I can get one purchased . Take it easy Bro
Thank you that was very inspiring
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice work and restoration, thank you for sharing.
Glad you enjoyed it. These older Unisaws are awesome. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great Video! Lots of hands on hints!
I picked up a 34-426 I from what I can tell it’s in decent shape, but right off it seems much of the chrome is missing from the round graduated rails. Has anyone had their tubes re chromed?
Nice - Good shop saw. I'm sure you could find a chrome shop that could do it. Also, I've seen rails in pretty good condition on eBay. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Thankyou. I own 2 of these. This really helps me.
Glad you found it helpful. Good luck on your projects. Thanks for watching and commenting.
God Im so jealous of you I wish I had the extension leaves and original stand for mine too! Great solid little saw, mine unfortunately is the NINe inch one.
Glad you enjoyed it. If you check ads on Craigslist and local marketplace sites with some frequency, you'll find one.
Thanks for the video. I picked up one of these for $100, and I see that the bevel quadrant gear segment is worn. I believe this happened because the dust shield was missing. It still works, but I wonder for how long. I'll also need to replace the arbor bearings (6203-2RS). On my Yates-American saw, instead of pressing in the bearings as shown here, I put the bearings in dry ice for an hour or so, and then heated the arbor casting. The bearings slipped in easily with finger pressure.
I removed the cabinet without disturbing the arbor carriage by undoing the 4 bolts and removing the handwheels, roll pins, and beveI shaft guide on the side of the cabinet. This saved the labor of realigning the arbor carriage to the miter slots.
I'll need to buy or make a wing for the right side. A wing of any desired width can be made as a torsion box, using yardsticks for the interior 3#x3" grid and 1/8" hardboard for the skins. Recently I've seen HDPE sheets that might make an excellent surface, if the thermal expansion of the HDPE isn't too great.
Finally, I don't care about original colors. In particular, I paint the inside of the cabinet and underside of the table white or yellow. This makes it much easier to see inside if something needs adjustment. For the outside, I may go red or turquoise blue.
Sounds like you got a good deal. Good luck on your restoration and projects. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice job!!
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
good video. I'm working on a similar delta rockwell saw, and I need to replace the bearings on the spindle. I've been avoiding a full disassembly. I dont want to restore it just get it back to work. I am thinking there is no way to replace the bearings without taking it all apart.
Maybe not a "full" disassembly but you'll need to take the table off and remove the arbor assembly to replace the bearings. It's not too bad. Maybe an 1 to 2 hours. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Awesome work! I just bought the same saw in an auction and would like to restore it. . My biggest challenge is to restore the motor. Yours seems to be a (62-751) Somehow the label is mostly unreadable. The capacitor is missing. I have been looking for pictures of this motor with no luck. Then, I found your video. Would you kindly please send me a close up picture of your label? Hopefully, I could make it work again!
Unfortunately, I no longer have the saw. I sold it shortly after completing the restoration. Rather than restoring the motor, I'd suggest focusing getting the saw restored and then look online (eBay, Craigslist, etc) for a suitible motor or maybe locate a good electric motor repair shop and see if they have any suggestions. Good luck. These are good saws and worth restoring. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Nice
Glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can this disassembly be done without the big impact wrench? I have a big vise and some long breaker bars. I am glad I found your video. Lots of tips that I did not know about as I am trying to restore my 9-inch Rockwell table saw.
You sure can. No need for impact wrench but it made things a bit easier. Good luck on your restoration. Great vintage saws. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Good job on a difficult project. I think you should have bid on restoring Bob's Land Rover.
I try to avoid old British stuff. Too much rust and usually poor machining quality. hahaha Thanks for watching and commenting.
Did you forget the bushing or spacer between the two arbor bearings or just choose to leave it off since the bearngs both seat into the casting and that spacer can make alot of noise sometimes?
I don't recall. I rebuilt it per the spec. sheet for that model so if it called for spacers I put them in. Thanks for watching.
Nice job!
I just purchased a model 10 today that needs a little TLC on the top of the table. Did you put any type of sealer on the top after you had removed the rust?
Thanks!
I didn't put anything on the top after cleaning it up. However, a good coat of paste wax is a good idea to make the table a little smoother and keeps rust from starting. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Great vid! Can you please link to the spec sheet you used for this project?
Here is the link to the manual I used.
www.mikestools.com/download/Delta-Parts-Lists/34-425-10-Inch-Tilting-Arbor-Bench-Saw-PM-1822-34-425.pdf
Hope this helps. Good luck on your restoration. These are good solid machines. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have an almost exact saw that has an issue with the blade not retracting all the way down, it stays about 1/8 inch above the throat plate when cranked all the way down. Any ideas on how to adjust that?
Thanks
Where the raising screw engages with the raising gear on the trunion may be a bit out of adjustment and not letting the trunion go all the way down. You should be able to adjust the collars on the raising screw to move closer to the raising gear. Hope that helps. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Just came across your post i have the very same saw with abroken rear trunion any idea were i could get one
I have found that eBAY is the best place to find parts. Do a search on Delta Rockwell and scroll through the results. You might also try RENOVOParts.com - I have found several hard to find vintage parts there. They have Delta Rockwell section. Hope you can find one - these are good old machines. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have the same exact model. I did not restore it, just using it. How do you tell the age of the saw by the serial number?
Go to this link - wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx
- a great source for identifying and various details on vintage machinery. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Hi, thank you so much for the video. I’m a woman who hasn’t used many saws of any sort much, but I have recently gotten into rockhounding & lapidary interests. My father passed away a few years ago & this is 1 of many tools/instruments he left to me. I am curious if this would be an appropriate saw for cutting rocks. I understand it matters the type of blade that is used for which ever material that would be cut. But my husband said it was only for wood. I just have a feeling he prefers to just use it for wood & not necessarily CANT BE❓⁉️🤨 Any information would be greatly appreciated. Take care
Glad you enjoyed the video. This is NOT a saw for sawing rocks. I don't do much work with rock or stones but would suggest that you'd want a saw that has some sort of water bath with a diamond blade. Something like a tile saw. Do some research on rock saw and check Amazon. You might me able to find a reasonably priced solution to fit your requirement. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a Rockwell delta table saw model 81-7215 that I can find any info on it . Can you find anything on it?
Assuming that is the serial number - the following link indicates that it is a 1949 model made in Milwaukee, WI.
wiki.vintagemachinery.org/DeltaSerialNumbers.ashx
There is alot of information publications available at:
vintagemachinery.org/mfgindex/detail.aspx?id=1141&tab=3
Look through the machines listed and you'll likely find your machine.
Hope this helps. Good luck with your project.
Thanks for watching and commenting.
My wormgear broke today. Any ideas were i can buy one?
You might try Renovo - link below - I've found a number of vintage parts there. Also, try searching on eBay.
www.renovoparts.com/
Good luck getting your saw back in action. Thanks for watching and commenting.
I have a rockwell - no sign of delta on label. does that mean its older model?
Perhaps. Were you able to find a serial number? If it's not on a plate on the cabinet, it may be somewhere on the underside of the table. If so, you can look up when/where that serial number was manufactured. Hope that helps. Good luck and thanks for watching and commenting.
Do you happen to have the wiring diagram for the motor ?
Sorry - I don't have the wiring diagram. If you're looking to change from 110V to 220V that diagram is usually on the motor. If not, you can probably find it online. Good luck. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Can you tell me the type of paint used? I may be restoring an old WT table saw and want to make sure I'm using a good durable paint. Thanks for the info!
I use Rustoleum - Dark Machine Gray - on my vintage Delta Rockwell machines. It's not a perfect match but pretty close. It seems to hold up pretty well too. Good luck with your WT restoration. Let me know how it turns out. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@elwellboy sure will, thanks for the info!
I have had a Rockwell for many years now. Is there any way to improve upon the fence accuracy?
Your issue is most likely that the blade isn't square with the table. Suggest you check that the blade is square with the miter gauge as a starting point. I use a dial caliper or indicator. Raise the blade to it's highest - mark a tooth with a sharpie level with the table. Measure the distance from the edge of the miter slot - rotate the blade so the mark is on the other side level with the table and measure again. Those measurements should be equal. If not then then the table is not square with the blade. Not sure what model of saw you have but most of the Rockwell/Delta cabinet saws have four bolts under the table that secure the table to the cabinet. To adjust the table, loosen 3 of the bolts - with a rubber or wood mallet bump a corner of the table to close the gap that you measured. It won't take much. Remeasure to see how close it is - repeat if necessary until the two measurements are equal or within .001 or so. Hope this helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@elwellboy Thank you for that. I'll check that out as well.
Nice video. I just picket up one similar, a 34-400. I was wondering where you procured the bearings for the arbor? Also, in older documentation, it looks like there was a riving knife for these. Do you have a suggestion for adding one as the original parts are discontinued? Thanks.
Glad you enjoyed the video. Just do a search for arbor bearings for your model and you'll find lots of sources for bearings. You'll have a rough time finding a riving knife - if in fact your model had one. Only suggestion would be to check eBay, craigslist or vintagemachinery.org. Good luck on your rebuild. Thanks for watching and commenting.
you could add a riving knife in the table insert. You could make a fin, or buy the MicroJig (?) premade splitter.
Great video, thanks. Look at Shark Guard for a riving knife. I have the same model I bought new and it came with a splitter only that is not very good. At that point in time (mid 80’s when I bought it) riving knifes we’re not a requirement.
Do they make spray paint for these delat
I have used Rustoleum Dark Machine Gray on my restorations. Not an exact match but pretty darn close. There are some online posts with a mix formula that claims to be the same as original. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Is there a bed extension for the Delta Rockwell Model 1460 Lathe?
I have never seen an extension for the 1460 lathe. If you needed an extension you could add another bed which could theoretically double the length capacity. Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
@@elwellboy Thanks, Danny
Can you tell me the dimensions of your table top??
If you mean the table top on the restored table saw, I've since sold it so can't get the dimensions. You could probably find dimensions by search for the model number. If you mean my welding table/work bench table, it is 40" x 84". Hope that helps. Thanks for watching and commenting.
Addendum to my note below: I changed out the arbor bearings while the casting was in place on the carriage, and this made things unnecessarily difficult. It would have been easier to just tap out the pivot pin and take the arbor casting out to work with it on the bench. Also, there is a spring washer placed between the casting and the flange side bearing. Finally, it was necessary to cut the flange side bearing apart with a Dremel cutoff wheel, which was tedious but effective.
Sounds like a lot of work. I prefer to take everything apart so I can really inspect the parts for cracks, wear, etc. and do the work on the bench. Good luck on your restoration.