Thank you. Very well done. Nice and 🤫 quiet. No loud noise. Or dog or critter. No cell phone. Right to the point and on track. The best demonstration I have seen. Very well put. I could concentrate and stay focused. No cussing 🤬 or smoking. Drinking. Very very good job with the explanation. You build confidence in me that I can do this job. Nice shop. A clean shop only tells the quality of the mechanic. I will look again. Later.
Great video Jason! 🙂 The wrist pin problem was not a major issue thankfully. Hats off to you for admitting that it was a mistake on your end. It happens to everyone my friend. Thanks for the shout out as well 🙂👍 ill check out that other channel. That tractor is getting real close! 😀 Can't wait to hear it run!
Thanks Zane! I might hide the small stuff, but figured I better address that one! Hopefully it will be ready to fire next week. I'm getting buried in work right now though, not sure how much time I'll get to work on it.
There is supposed to be a "tooth rounder" on the back edge of the ring gear, for a lead in for the starter gear. Just a bit of a chamfer on the side of the teeth may help save the starter bendix gear for an extended period of time.
Just a tip for you on the ends of oil pan those 2 cork stripes, put them in a empty food can like a corn, pees or a bean can for a couple hours it'll hold the shape, makes it easier than. But there are clips to you can buy that clip on the pan that'll hold the end cork seal onto the pan.
Jason, Thanks for the videos. I have a 1957 WD 45 of my own. I haven't had a reason to tear mine down yet but, seeing you work on yours gives me a better understanding of how it is put together. Your doing a thorough job on that rebuild. Thumbs up.
I got lucky, it only cost me about an hour of my time. I did notice I had to move the rods over to get them to line up with the journals when I put them in the first time, but I did not investigate it any further. I have never run across anything like that before, and not sure why it is that way. I don't see any reason for it. Maybe the engineers screwed up and that was their quick fix for it.
I wish i had a decent shop, that is looking to be problematic. all i have is a 2 car garage. i have more junk in it than needs to be ...lol at least my truck and wifes car fit in it
Wow Jason, you’re so close man, it looks fantastic too! Thankfully you caught that little hiccup before install, good thing ya got an eagle eye watching your channel lol. Those 2 cork front and rear oil pan gaskets...no thanks, I know that would have kicked my butt and I’d have been cussing up a storm. Tell ya what’s interesting to me is that external oil line from the filter to block, I’d always worry I’d pinch it or snag something knowing my luck! Appreciate the shout out brother, I’ll have to check out the other channel as well.
@@sparksfireandbalingwire8467 Not as extensive as you have with yours. Honestly mine was a basket case that should have been scrapped but was complete. Has to send the head out to machine shop valve seats had rusted out of it due to previous owner removing the head in 93 and letting it sit. Oil had not been changed since 65 previous owner put the date on the filter haha.
Like always I learned a lot in this one. Those wrist pins are something I never would have thought to check. However when it came to the head studs I do have one question. Why did they design it to where there’s only two head studs on one side instead of the other side which has 3?
Thanks Cody! There are several more bolts besides the studs holding the head on. The side with 2 are 1/2 inch diameter and also hold the thermostat housing. There is no way to get bolts through the housing so the studs come up from below and use nuts to hold it on. The side with 3 are only 3/8 inch studs. They are out on the edge of the block past the pushrods. They are just to keep oil from leaking at the edge, they aren't containing any cylinder pressure
Question: I have the manual you initially showed in the video stating 70ftlbs torque, and is I what I heard you say to use on the bolts. I have an allis shop manual that states 90ftlbs torque. Did the 70ftlbs actually work or did you end up with adding more? Also, did you copper coat the gasket? Love the videos!
I torqued them to 70, then after I got some run time on the engine, I torqued them again. I did not copper coat the head gasket if I remember correctly.
Thank you. Very well done. Nice and 🤫 quiet. No loud noise. Or dog or critter. No cell phone. Right to the point and on track. The best demonstration I have seen. Very well put. I could concentrate and stay focused. No cussing 🤬 or smoking. Drinking. Very very good job with the explanation. You build confidence in me that I can do this job. Nice shop. A clean shop only tells the quality of the mechanic. I will look again. Later.
Wow you have very high standards for people sharing their knowledge
Great video Jason! 🙂 The wrist pin problem was not a major issue thankfully. Hats off to you for admitting that it was a mistake on your end. It happens to everyone my friend. Thanks for the shout out as well 🙂👍 ill check out that other channel. That tractor is getting real close! 😀 Can't wait to hear it run!
Thanks Zane! I might hide the small stuff, but figured I better address that one! Hopefully it will be ready to fire next week. I'm getting buried in work right now though, not sure how much time I'll get to work on it.
@@sparksfireandbalingwire8467 I understand my friend :) No hurry. Take the work while you can get it :)
I am literally, in about three hours about to remove crankshaft from my A/C WD45 (spun a bearing). Thank you for documenting this proses for us !!!
My 5 year old son, Kayden, and I are watching step by step and restoring a 52WD tricycle tractor. He wanted to say hello!
I hope you two are enjoying the videos. Have a happy Thanksgiving!
There is supposed to be a "tooth rounder" on the back edge of the ring gear, for a lead in for the starter gear. Just a bit of a chamfer on the side of the teeth may help save the starter bendix gear for an extended period of time.
I'm respect his honesty and am so happy I saw this if I need to rebuild mine
Interesting the flywheel gear is shrink fit. Good stuff. Thanks.
Again...... beautiful project..!
Just a tip for you on the ends of oil pan those 2 cork stripes, put them in a empty food can like a corn, pees or a bean can for a couple hours it'll hold the shape, makes it easier than. But there are clips to you can buy that clip on the pan that'll hold the end cork seal onto the pan.
Jason,
Thanks for the videos. I have a 1957 WD 45 of my own. I haven't had a reason to tear mine down yet but, seeing you work on yours gives me a better understanding of how it is put together. Your doing a thorough job on that rebuild. Thumbs up.
Thanks, I appreciate the comment and the view!
Good catch whoever caught the piston issue, my JD is not like that. Tractor is coming along nice, looking good. Keep smiling
I got lucky, it only cost me about an hour of my time. I did notice I had to move the rods over to get them to line up with the journals when I put them in the first time, but I did not investigate it any further. I have never run across anything like that before, and not sure why it is that way. I don't see any reason for it. Maybe the engineers screwed up and that was their quick fix for it.
I know all the Wc Wd wd45 and d17 engines are like that but I’m thinking the b c ca and d15 engines are too.
I will be finding out on a C soon enough
been looking for vids on the wd45 for a while, I have 1 that was my dads. it runs good now, but it will need some work in the future.....much thx
Thanks! Glad you enjoyed it
I wish i had a decent shop, that is looking to be problematic. all i have is a 2 car garage. i have more junk in it than needs to be ...lol at least my truck and wifes car fit in it
@@scottbuss3449 There is no such thing as a big enough shop. The bigger the shop, the more junk you collect! Still don't have enough room to work
im restoring a d14 the motor looks the same so im using a bunch of the specs your using thank you for the content
Looking good. And good catch.
Thanks, I really averted a disaster there!
Thanks! That's a great idea, i bet it does work good.
Looking great man! Can’t wait to hear that bad boy fire up
Thanks, me too! Thanks again for saving me!
Looks awesome can’t wait to see when it’s done!!!
Thanks! Me too, I havent had time to touch it in the last 2 weeks!
Wow Jason, you’re so close man, it looks fantastic too! Thankfully you caught that little hiccup before install, good thing ya got an eagle eye watching your channel lol. Those 2 cork front and rear oil pan gaskets...no thanks, I know that would have kicked my butt and I’d have been cussing up a storm. Tell ya what’s interesting to me is that external oil line from the filter to block, I’d always worry I’d pinch it or snag something knowing my luck! Appreciate the shout out brother, I’ll have to check out the other channel as well.
Pan gasket wasn't as bad as I thought, of course I haven't fired it up yet to seei f it leaks!
Very nice save 👍
Put a coolant filter kit on that iron engine with a zinc plug
I'm finally at this step.
Nice clean job.. Where did u get the engine specs on sch
Outstanding. Thank you!
Just got the head back on mine last weekend
Are you doing a complete rebuild on yours?
@@sparksfireandbalingwire8467 Not as extensive as you have with yours. Honestly mine was a basket case that should have been scrapped but was complete. Has to send the head out to machine shop valve seats had rusted out of it due to previous owner removing the head in 93 and letting it sit. Oil had not been changed since 65 previous owner put the date on the filter haha.
Like always I learned a lot in this one. Those wrist pins are something I never would have thought to check. However when it came to the head studs I do have one question. Why did they design it to where there’s only two head studs on one side instead of the other side which has 3?
Thanks Cody! There are several more bolts besides the studs holding the head on. The side with 2 are 1/2 inch diameter and also hold the thermostat housing. There is no way to get bolts through the housing so the studs come up from below and use nuts to hold it on. The side with 3 are only 3/8 inch studs. They are out on the edge of the block past the pushrods. They are just to keep oil from leaking at the edge, they aren't containing any cylinder pressure
Sparks Fire and Baling Wire Gotcha, that makes more sense👍! I gotta hand it to ya Jason, it looks flat out amazing, and I can’t wait to hear it run.
I was wondering the same thing
Great videos
Hey mate looks good back in the tractor are u going to pre prime the oil system before first start up.
Thanks! Yes, I did prime the oil already
I noticed your engine hoist has different hydraulic ram. Can you do a quick video on your setup?
I covered the hoist in an earlier video, here is the link: ua-cam.com/video/RNK59Ynzk2U/v-deo.html
Nice!!
Sooooo twin turbos next?
Not on this one! Looking for something to put some on though
Question: I have the manual you initially showed in the video stating 70ftlbs torque, and is I what I heard you say to use on the bolts. I have an allis shop manual that states 90ftlbs torque. Did the 70ftlbs actually work or did you end up with adding more? Also, did you copper coat the gasket? Love the videos!
I torqued them to 70, then after I got some run time on the engine, I torqued them again. I did not copper coat the head gasket if I remember correctly.
@@sparksfireandbalingwire8467 okay thank you. The head gasket I took off had copper lining like the old style. The new ones look weak compared.
As far as I have researched, there are no oil pumps or rebuild kits available.
I didn't even look for one, mine seemed to be in good shape other than the mashed up screen. That shouldn't effect anything though
Subbed.
Good information