Tips With Nev: How To Wax A Snowboard
Вставка
- Опубліковано 23 бер 2019
- snowboardaddiction.com/
Answering UA-cam's most common questions, head coach Nev Lapwood is here with his latest Vlog to show you how you can wax your own snowboard at home.
To find our premium tutorials, make sure to visit our website snowboardaddiction.com
LIKE OUR GEAR?
Go to snowboardaddiction.com/ to get it for yourself!
FOLLOW US:
Facebook: / snowboardaddiction
Instagram: / snowboard_addiction
ENJOY THE VIDEO?
Be sure to LIKE, COMMENT, and SUBSCRIBE below! - Спорт
Thanks for the video, I enjoy watching and learning other peoples techniques. I am a firm believer that you can always learn something new. I have always waxed/ tuned/ repaired my own boards and I tune up boards for customers here at the shop quite often. For people without the proper space and tools taking to the local board shop is worth spending the few dollars it takes to have it done. For one, they have the wax and tools (usually included) and secondly there is no having to deal with the mess. My last thoughts are that I always wax the tip and tail as well. If you find yourself in powder I believe the extra effort in doing so will help you glide through the pow and float on top much easier. Cheers! -DB
Thank you, I'm a newbie and just hot a brand new board so I'm trying to learn the fundamentals. Down here in Az but love my Canadian's. 🤘 love your kids little board in background. Vancouver island is so pretty, We stopped there on a cruise.
Thanks for this vid I needed it :)
Ur vids are amazing keep them up!!!
Simple and practical, no fancy stuff. That's it.
And our goal is to become a better snowboarders and to thank you for that
I saw a guy use 4x4 pieces of wood on the outside of the binding. Makes it stable without removing the binding. I never would have thought of that simple idea and just wanted to spread to your followers.
Is there a difference as to how you would wax a sintered base board and an extruded one? Thanks! Cool vids btw.:)
wow that is a lot of wax you are using. What do you do when you have grooves in your base?
Great vid, even better accent.
Nice vid. I use a different method that I call the crayon method. I basically take my bar of wax and I rub it up and down the board using a lot of pressure rather than melt/drip it on the board. Then I use the iron to melt it into the base till I can feel a little heat thru the board. It uses WAY less wax and sometimes I dont even have to scrape the board, I just go right to the brass and Nylon roto brushes or hand brushes....thoughts? Have you ever tried this method?
When you don't remove the bindings it makes them loose because the heat expands the screws holes. It has happened to me twice that I arrived to the mountain after my board was waxed a few days before that and my bindings were all loose. After I started removing the bindings before waxing and mounting them back after I never had that problem again.
You don't need to take them off completely, but you should loosen the hardware before waxing. The reason why is because if you don't, when the base is warm/hot from the iron, it becomes slightly softer & more flexible and the tightness of the hardware can actually pull it up towards the tosheet in the exact spots where the inserts are. If the hardware is tight enough and/or this is done enough times, it creates dimples or base suction where the inserts are. It's not exactly a big/huge deal, but when that happens, when you scrape wax off, there will be some that the scraper doesn't get to/can't reach 'cause it's lower than the rest of the base there, and then you have to use a scratch pad or whatever to get those spots out also. It's easier and better to just simply loosen your mounting hardware enough so that there's almost no tightness at all before waxing, just tight enough to make sure your mounting discs' angles don't change, that's about ideal. Another thing that can happen if you don't at least loosen your mounting hardware enough, is for bindings that have metal base plates, if somebody is ironing for too long and the board gets so hot that the metal on the base plates gets too hot, it can permanently mar the topsheet where the metal parts of the bindings are in contact with it. But in that case, they obviously got the board way too hot anyway, meaning that if it's that hot, to start out with, they've already sealed the pores of a sintered base and it won't absorb wax anymore. That's why you want to always keep the iron moving of course and not in any one place for too long, but at the same time, feel the topsheet under the board off and on just to make sure you haven't been ironing the whole thing for too long as well. I admit that I've done this to some of my boards in the past, and that's why I monitor/feel the topsheet while waxing nowadays, to make sure I don't get it too hot and seal the pores. After all, when you spend that much money on a higher quality board, sintered base, and possibly more expensive faster waxes as well, the last thing you want to do is turn a sintered base into an extruded base that doesn't even absorb wax anymore. 👍
Also, another reason your bindings may have "come loose", isn't really the expansion of the inserts &/or hardware so much, as it is what I mentioned about the base getting "suctioned" up towards the topsheet. If the wax job was done with your mounting hardware left tight as is & they never even loosened them, at all, that's pretty much exactly what it was, actually. The "dimples"/suction of the base where the inserts are & specifically the ones that were being used where your bindings were screwed into, created less distance/thickness to the board in those exact spots & the tightness as it was beforehand became "looser", hence you noticing that. With my very first snowboard I ever had, I might've done that once or twice, not to mention leaving it mounted tight the whole off season as well, so when I got it out for season 2, I had base suction as I'm describing, & it's never went back to the way it was before. In other words, be sure to loosen your mounting hardware during the off season as well, not just while waxing, or you can get it that way too.
Pretty much softens the potting compound holding the inserts in. bad combo with torqued screws.
De-lamination risk
Does happen, although if you lossen the screws it's affective enough. You probably haven't had that problem because you look like you're waxing at really low temps
Great video, you have a nice accent
hi , great video !! thanks , do you take off the bindings when waxing the board ?
Nope! but make sure to not wax too long with them on or else you will start to see the screw slots on the bottom of the board.
What is the temperature settings of the iron?
Serh1y low to medium you just need it to melt and it should not smoke up
Nev' you definitely need to set yourself up with a work station (bench/vices). So much better than working off the top of a plastic tub. You might have a problem with finding the space due to all the toys in your garage. A ToKo T8 is a brilliant affordable iron, has a large area sole plate a bit bigger than your one so it gives you the ability to work a lot faster. I prefer to chalk on as it gives you the ability to spread a smear of wax over the board and you use less wax than drip technique. This is important if you're using a low/high fluro based wax ie $$$$$$. You only need to melt the wax into the pours of the sintered/extruded base so all the rest of the wax is scraped off ie wasted or can be reused. I've been doing snowboard tuning for customers for 10 years.
I pretty sure he knows that . This vid is for all the bros out there that need to make do with what they got.. I appreciate Nev's approach.. shred on brother
You should always wipe your board clean because otherwise there might be dust/dirt stuck inside the pores.
I noticed you didn't scrape it off after?
I see some people scrape the board...
Is there a reason for that?
Great vid 👍
He left that for another video. You should ALWAYS scrape wax after. I'd advise leaving it in the cold before scraping as well.
Would be great to have part two pinned to this video..way to many videos posted to try and search for part 2
Come check out our ADDICTION+ program to get everything is a logical step by step order with no ads and live coaching to help you progress: snowboardaddiction.com/addictionplus
You need to wax the nose and tale for presses, also when scrapping and brushing the wax off you need to scape in the direction of which you ride
Directional brushing after scraping will create little lines that will help with riding straight just like a fin on a surfboard
So you scrape from tail to the front.
I just bought a brand new board. Been practicing Snowflake on heel size down the bunnyslope for 3 days. I noticed my heel side of board are all white scratchy looking. Does that mean I need a wax? Just 3 days old board? Also should the metal part on the edge be waxed too?
Yep you could use a wax, the wax that comes on your board from the factory wears off the quickest. The metal edges don’t need to be waxed
Thats a lot of wax you're using , Barbra!
I bought a soviet iron it cost me a few dollars😂
So why don't you put any wax or iron the tips of the board at all?
The tips are very rarely in contact with the snow, so they don't need much wax. You can wax them if you like, but you don't always need to
Those boards look huge, I think the dude is just short though
if you go to any shop they take your bindings off no matter what your going to be riding, fast slow terrain
I always smell my wax its really important if it doesn't smell at least a little bit like Mr. Zogs Sex Wax its a bad sign.
i cant seem to find one that smells like that :(
@@MrEvolutionist one ball jay? It's smells good
Нормальный он такой слой парафина накладывает! А нос и хвост не запарафинил.
you should really take your bindings off when you wax super important !!!!!!
how come? a lot of people who have been doing it for years don't, including tuning shops.
not believing in all "important things "is important too
OK so I read a bit about this, and the gist is the screws act as a heat sink (because metal), which expands when heated, and if you iron too hot it could damage very tight screws/thread on the inserts because of the expansion.
I have watched a lot of these videos made by pro snowboarders or full time techs, and based on the amount who remove bindings (almost none) I think it's safe to say you don't need to. heat your iron at the right temp for the wax, don't over tighten your screws and you're good.
@@qwertygerty i like u :)
@@qwertygerty You're right, the reason why they tell you to do that is for new users to not fuck up their board. It's just good practice.
Next video: How to wax a board when you don't own a iron.