I've got a question for you ... I waxed 4 of my boards back in December ( its March now) 2 of the boards sat untouched since waxed ... but when I took them out to ride it looked as If they had already ghosted and dried up ... any suggestions ?
When you leave your boards for several months at a time it’s best to skip the scraping step of waxing until you’re ready to ride to prevent it from drying out.
@@SnowboardAddiction I'm surprised you just got it! Heck, I'm surprised they didn't just give you one when they were first released! Are you planning on buying the other brushes for different stiffness or just sticking to the one brush?
What advice or tips can you offer for waxing/scraping convex or concave bases? I own a 2019 Jones Flagship, with the Spoon 3.0 tips. I'm not too fussed about that one, as the process just took a bit longer. But I'm looking at picking up a 2020 Yes 20/20, with the Powderhull 2.0 base. I can see that being a right bastard to iron and scrape. I'm thinking maybe use an old credit card, or something similarly soft, to get into the concave section. Have you or anyone else here got any bright ideas for making the process quicker/easier/better?
Just an idea, but...google drill brush. I reckon one of the round head brush options should make short work of that concave sections on the Yes boards.
From any other video Iv seen on this subject, they advice you to angle your plastic in the exact opposite fashion, and I would think it is more effective as it in a sense pushes the wax down into the groves and the pores.
@@thaidozy Half half is sometimes just more practical if you lean your board against something like he does, if you have your board on a bench in front of you then it's easier to do the whole length.
Had a quick look myself and found this www.racewax.com/tuning-tools/roto-brushes/ You're not going to get much change out of $150, and that's if you already have a cordless drill.
If you are talking about the yellow sponge he is using in the video, then you buy it at a supermarket in the kitchen cleaning product section, it's just a dish washing sponge.
Nev, get yourself a workbench with tuning stands. Doing a wax/scrap/brush on an esky/back of your tailgate with a ToKo 300mm rotobrush using a Makita cordless drill....., something is wrong here???
Grab yourself a single trade/industrial quality saw horse (I used Kincrome Gravity Lock Saw Horse K14111 in Australia). It's like a super rock solid stable work platform. The legs fold up and has a 35mm laminated hardwood bamboo top. You can the mount the ToKo vise grips onto that. Was only around $Au50 a few years ago.
@@SnowboardAddiction technically wax is there to create friction to melt a thin layer of snow which your low friction ptex then glides on. That's why you have different temp waxes because you need different amounts of friction depending on how cold the snow is.
Epic lifestyle evident in that garage.
serious epic ness showing
So true. Add the camper outside for epicness completion
I love these kind of videos. You guys should definitely do more of these if you can!
awesome man, thank you!! NOthing more meditative than waxing, scraping, and buffing your board in the sun on a winter morning!
Our goal is to improve your waxing!
Thanks for sharing man, that tool at the end makes things so much easier...!
the scotch pad is amazing. Never thought of that. I was literally just looking up waxing brushes.
Use the dish sponges. the bigger ones are the best
idk if they mentioned this, but if you don't have biodegradable wax, make sure you're scraping onto some newspaper or something
man, can you send a link to that polisher attachment? looks awesome
I've got a question for you ... I waxed 4 of my boards back in December ( its March now) 2 of the boards sat untouched since waxed ... but when I took them out to ride it looked as If they had already ghosted and dried up ... any suggestions ?
When you leave your boards for several months at a time it’s best to skip the scraping step of waxing until you’re ready to ride to prevent it from drying out.
Great video, And thank you very much for posting it!!!Where we can find that brush for drill ??
it’s called a toko buffer, 5:30
What's the name of that spinning brush? I want to buy it
The buffer is a Toko buffer. He mentions it the video. I found it very easily doing a google search. Sure does make stuff a lot easier.
Do you use an online site to purchase the toko buffer? I can't find it on any Canadian site.
Rotobrush are awesome. Want one so bad, but I just cant justify the cost.
@@SnowboardAddiction I'm surprised you just got it! Heck, I'm surprised they didn't just give you one when they were first released! Are you planning on buying the other brushes for different stiffness or just sticking to the one brush?
Once you Rotobrush you'll never go back. @@SnowboardAddiction
why are they so expensive lmaooo
What advice or tips can you offer for waxing/scraping convex or concave bases?
I own a 2019 Jones Flagship, with the Spoon 3.0 tips. I'm not too fussed about that one, as the process just took a bit longer. But I'm looking at picking up a 2020 Yes 20/20, with the Powderhull 2.0 base. I can see that being a right bastard to iron and scrape. I'm thinking maybe use an old credit card, or something similarly soft, to get into the concave section.
Have you or anyone else here got any bright ideas for making the process quicker/easier/better?
Just an idea, but...google drill brush. I reckon one of the round head brush options should make short work of that concave sections on the Yes boards.
Such a life man! Lucky you!
Any helpful tips to help out a beginner on the snow during the off season?
I will definitely check it out. Thanks for the input.
@@SnowboardAddiction will this also help with learning edges and turns too?
how is that rotary brush mountet on the makita?
Snowboard Addiction where can I order a buffer ?
Just did this myself. I need that Toko attachment in my life.
Thank you, this year I started waxing for my family of 5. Handfuls of these videos are wonderful
You are so welcome:) it's important to keep the fam running fast!
Also should you tune your edges before or after you wax your board?
Tune first
I know this is an old video, but if I use the scotch pad does that mean I don’t need to buy a brush?
A set of buff brush's is the best tool for this however you can use a soap free scotch pad will work as well :)
I just got my board serviced and there's shiny spots n streaks here and there. Is this bad?
Just bought a ride superpig. The base is a little white so I’m going to wax it. Should I tune the edges too?
Hey man. Did you say at the end that i wouldn’t have to scrape my board if i use that drill?
I think you just don't have to be as thorough with the scraping
Would love a short explanation on why you would want to scrape
using that machine will make the wax last less long right?
No, not at all
@@SnowboardAddiction oh nice to know another dude stated that it make it last like max 2 days geuss ill find out after I order such a device
@@SnowboardAddiction what’s the name of the part that’s connected to the drill?
Great vids learned a ton thanks
WHERE DO YOU GET THE BUFFER ?
Dude, how many boards do you have?
From any other video Iv seen on this subject, they advice you to angle your plastic in the exact opposite fashion, and I would think it is more effective as it in a sense pushes the wax down into the groves and the pores.
Yes you're right. Also to scrape in the direction of travel, not half and half like here
@@thaidozy I think if you're buffing/brushing afterwards, the direction of wax scrape isnt too important.
@@thaidozy Half half is sometimes just more practical if you lean your board against something like he does, if you have your board on a bench in front of you then it's easier to do the whole length.
How can I look for those waxing buffers on the drill?
Snowboard Addiction thank you so much.
can you add the link for that buffer you bought online
Had a quick look myself and found this www.racewax.com/tuning-tools/roto-brushes/
You're not going to get much change out of $150, and that's if you already have a cordless drill.
If you are talking about the yellow sponge he is using in the video, then you buy it at a supermarket in the kitchen cleaning product section, it's just a dish washing sponge.
ok so if the WAX is what makes you go faster why do you hav e to scrape basically all of it off?
To make it a smooth service. A smooth service goes faster. You just scrapping off all the excess
@@SnowboardAddiction you mean surface?
Why cant i just dont scrap off the board and just ride?
I scrap the wax directly on the snow during my first ride of the season
Wont get nearly enough off doing that
@@eagle___empire3175 Right . This also result in uneven waxed surface . Now I wax my board and take some time polishing it thereafter
Nev, get yourself a workbench with tuning stands. Doing a wax/scrap/brush on an esky/back of your tailgate with a ToKo 300mm rotobrush using a Makita cordless drill....., something is wrong here???
You've got all the good ToKo tools $$$$$, splash out on a set of ToKo board grips. Best investment you'll ever make.@@SnowboardAddiction
Grab yourself a single trade/industrial quality saw horse (I used Kincrome Gravity Lock Saw Horse K14111 in Australia). It's like a super rock solid stable work platform. The legs fold up and has a 35mm laminated hardwood bamboo top. You can the mount the ToKo vise grips onto that. Was only around $Au50 a few years ago.
🙏
Reduces the friction or increases it?
@@SnowboardAddiction technically wax is there to create friction to melt a thin layer of snow which your low friction ptex then glides on. That's why you have different temp waxes because you need different amounts of friction depending on how cold the snow is.
rushthezeppelin great answer. People act like I'm an idiot when I joke about us just being winter surfers.
5:07
If he says he lives in Canada, why isn't he speaking English or French?
No sabe😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅😅