Basic Soldering Tools for Console Repairs Toolkit Walkthrough
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- Опубліковано 7 вер 2024
- A toolkit walkthrough of the basic tools needed to repair retro video game consoles and basic electronics. These are my personal tools that use to repair retro video game consoles on the channel
Products List-
Before you read on to the products list, I recently found this soldering iron with a direct heating element that can be run off 12V. This thing absolutely rocks! Don't let its size put you off, this new technology is amazing and has started showing up in the big brands like Hakko. It's tiny but packs a serious punch.
Check it out on AliExpress - goo.gl/6zGJmP
Amazon US and UK
► 80 in 1 Precision Screwdriver Set
amzn.to/2tcw9fB
► JIS Screwdriver Set
amzn.to/2CTGBZ7
► Another great Kit for Electronics
amzn.to/2FMDZze
► Hakko Flush Cutters
amzn.to/2CVH7FO
► Hioki DT4252 Standard Digital Multimeter
amzn.to/2CV5ROD
► FLUKE 17B+ Digital Multimeter
amzn.to/2CVuXg4
► Greenlee DM-510A True RMS Professional Digital Multimeter
amzn.to/2F7v4at
► YIHUA 853D 110V SMD DC Power Supply Hot Air Gun Soldering Iron Rework Solder Station (I have this one)
amzn.to/2FiB8QI
► Desoldering Gun S-993A ( 110V Version for the US)
amzn.to/2FNtRX4
► Rigol DS1052E 50MHz Digital Oscope
amzn.to/2GYqY4T
► Austor 0.8mm Lead Free Solder
amzn.to/2GYPcMs
► OUSHARES Lead Free Solder Wire with Rosin Core
amzn.to/2CVrY7w
► Kester 186 Rosin Soldering Flux 2oz Bottle
amzn.to/2F9RThU
► MG Chemicals #3 No Clean Super Wick Desoldering Braid
amzn.to/2FatsB3
► Digital Caliper Vernier
amzn.to/2F5uvls
► VuPlex Plastic Cleaner
amzn.to/2CVwqmA
► 5 Piece Mini Pliers - Bent Needle Nose
amzn.to/2H2jj5H
► 5 in 1 Anti Static Brushes for cleaning
amzn.to/2Fb5UvB
► Helping Hands Magnifier Station (To hold stuff)
amzn.to/2FMHSUQ
► Clip On Desk LED Lamp (Similar to mine)
amzn.to/2oLP2k9
► MG Chemicals 99.9% Isopropyl Alcohol
amzn.to/2FNOi6c
► Hioki DT4252 Standard Digital Multimeter
amzn.to/2CV5ROD
eBay
► YIHUA 853D 110V SMD DC Power Supply Hot Air Gun Soldering Iron Rework Solder Station (I have this one)
goo.gl/FsiDQN
► Desoldering Gun S-993A ( 220V with AU plug)
goo.gl/qtffoW
► The gold soldering iron tip cleaner
goo.gl/qBFof2
► VuPlex Plastic Cleaner
goo.gl/RdWzyt
AliExpress (Worldwide customers)
► YIHUA 853D 3 In 1 Soldering Iron Hot Air (110V & 220V)
s.click.aliexpr...
► Desoldering Gun S-993A
s.click.aliexpr...
► Modding Wire 200 Meters AWG30
s.click.aliexpr...
► Digital LCD GM328A Component Tester
s.click.aliexpr... (My model)
s.click.aliexpr... (Newer model)
► In Circuit ESR Meter MESR-100 AutoRanging
s.click.aliexpr...
► Angled Hook Pick Set
s.click.aliexpr...
► USB Digital Electronic Microscope 500x times zoom
s.click.aliexpr...
Australian Local Sellers
► Gamebit Tools 3.8mm & 4.5mm
www.retrosales...
► Diggers 125ml Isopropyl Cleaning Alcohol
www.bunnings.c...
► Isopropyl Aerosol Can - 300g Jaycar
www.jaycar.com...
Please comment if you have any questions on the products mentioned.
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Nice video mate.
I learned to use JIS the hard way. Destroyed 4 screws on my Honda Civic's brake discs with a Philips driver and ended up having to drill them out. Using JIS on them, no matter how hard I hammer the driver, it just NEVER cams out. On a console, it doesn't matter that much I guess, but always good to use the right tool for the job. You preserve the screws much better with JIS drivers.
I have the exact same soldering station. The displayed iron temp on mine is about 30 degrees higher than actual temp. I now only use this unit for hot air. I cannot go back to these slow heating irons after trying out a T12 iron. My T12 iron is a Quicko 952, there are newer models with bigger OLED displays. You basically turn it on, and you're ready to solder in about 10 secs. It has much better thermal performance than traditional irons. You'll feel the difference when soldering on heat sinks and ground planes. It goes to sleep after you put the handle down (you can set the timeout), and once you pick it up, it's ready to solder in 3-4 seconds. I say, it's time to upgrade to one of these mate.
About solder, I guess Duratech is probably the best value for money in Australia. I use Mechanic 63/37. It just produces slightly shinier joints and has slightly less flux splash than Duratech. When your solder runs out, I suggest you try Pro'skit leaded solder with silver in it. It's the best out of all the ones I've used (Duratech, Mechanic, Multicore/Loctite), but I don't use it often cuz i can't find ones thinner than 1mm: hobbyking.com/en_us/solder-wire-w-63-sn-250g-dia-1-0mm.html?queryID=0b1005a3174592ba144f72ea8895b940&objectID=65177&indexName=hbk_live_magento_en_us_products
Your American accent is on point! 😂 Nice video bro, I appreciate all the help.
Yup, if you do a fair bit of electronic work, especially replacing electronic components .... GET a de-solder vacuum gun! Such an underrated piece of kit! Saves a heap of time and agro!!!
Really great video especially for a complete beginner like me
Very informative! Didn't really help me with what I was looking for, but I could listen to you speak for ages. lol
Thanks this was a wonderful an helpful video. Have a great weekend
Thanks so much! I thought this topic would be useful for people. The Chinese equipment these days is quite good.
i have owned vessel jis for over 20 years. phillips are designed to cam out. they were created for the production line where if you apply too much torq they would jump out of the slot (cam out) doing a lot of work on my japanese motorcycles and consoles. a JIS screwdriver just grips and fits right, where as very often a phillips will do what they are designed to do and cam out and bugger the screw head. JIS also work better in phillips screws than i phillips screwdriver for the same reason.
Quite informative, thanks for sharing your experience. I might end up buying a couple of things, I find I especially have problems with desoldering crap and that gun looks great for the task.
Yep the gun I use works fantastic. I wouldn't even bother buying a more expensive one.
Just pointing out that you gave me enough information and confidence to take the plunge and get some equipment to start working properly. I have bought a Taikd 85860 soldering+hot air station: it's an entry level cheapo model, but it has everything I need in one package; plus, it has a 50W rating, which is a nice upgrade from my crappy 15W pencil iron. I'll begin with a MD region mod, then we'll see how it goes from there; it's also something I've always kind of wanted to get for the odd electronics project, and thanks to you I think I ought to manage just fine.
By the way: I haven't gotten that gun yet, simply because I value developing the manuality in learning how to desolder with basic tools (hot air + solder wick) more than getting things done in a hurry (and I want to figure out if I need to make the extra espense or if classic methods cut the mustard for me). I'll definitely consider it in the future, though, it looks like a magnificent toy.
BeastOfSoda Thats great news, I’m glad to hear you got some value from my video. Post again when you’ve done your first mod. BTW the desoldering gun is really worth its weight in gold.
Global Garage if I don't screw it up big time, sure :) wish me luck!
Hello again! While I'm waiting for my equipment to arrive, I went ahead and made room in the outer shell of a non-high definition model 1 Mega Drive for the switch: it fits well and the job was neat enough that it fooled my girl into thinking it came stock with the console, so I'm already happy with that.
I also tested the basis for a 3-way switch mod, according to which cutting the traces between the region jumpers and leaving them disconnected automatically pulls JP1-2 and JP3-4 to +5v (basically defaulting the system to NTSC-U, with positions 1 and 2 on the switch grounding either pin pair to simulate NTSC-J or PAL, according to this guide: mdpal60.net/wiki/megadrive/regionmod/start ). While it worked and gave me Sonic in glorious 60Hz, it left me wondering: do you figure there's any side effects to defaulting them to +5v this way, or is this how it actually works by design, meaning that leaving these pairs disconnected as opposed to connecting them properly to +5v won't cause trouble in the long run?
Also: I got my switches on the cheap, and I highly doubt they're the break-before-make kind. However, since putting my switch to either "on" position is just grounding the corresponding pins, I'm thinking that I shouldn't have to worry about it when switching region with the system running to bypass potential lockout checks, am I correct?
I hope I'm expressing myself properly, I'm trying my best; also, I hope you don't mind me asking so many questions, especially since it may be basic stuff that I probably should know to begin with, but as with many other skills in my life I'm mainly self-taught and flying by the seat of my pants (only in this case I'm a little more cautious, since I may end up doing real damage and can't improvise the way I'm used to do). Also, please know that I don't take your insight for granted and I'm very grateful for your taking the time to share your experiences with everyone.
One last thing: I've given up on the dual osci mod, mainly because as you explained it's not for the faint of heart noob, and also because I've stumbled into a setting on my FrameMeister that basically lets me simulate composite fuzzyness over RGB, thus eliminating the need for me to monkey around with proper composite syncing. Thanks anyway! (however, I do have an extra row of headers on my switches to use in case I change my mind and acquire the knowledge/confidence to attempt it, but I won't just yet as I have other projects bouncing around my head).
Thank you. This video is very helpful.
I picked up the same rework station. hoping it will actually melt the solder so i can remove small chips.
great video for those who wanna try and fix their own stuff or maybe dwell into a doing this as a source of income. also add first and most important part PATIENCE
Keep it up with awesome material, cheers!
Yes, patience! Good tip!
Hey, great video buddy. I always love seeing other people's setups! I've got the same USB microscope. Did you use the included disk software? I had trouble getting it to work so ended up using the built in Windows 10 camera app... Seems to work OK I think.
Thanks. Yes but I had trouble with the software as well. It does work but it's a bit fiddly. The Windows 10 camera App works better as you said.
Ty
How do I learn electronics and soldering now?
nice workbench!
Thanks
You didn't show the o-scope. Interested in that. Can it show a video signal? Maybe a composite video signal with the video and sync signals separated? Or an R, G, or B line? Haven't really tried a digital scope, and the last ones I used were analog and in school in the lab.
No I didn't want to get into each tool as the video was long enough. I want to play with the Scope a bit more and get more familiar with it before making a video. Yes it'll display a composite signal. It's show mv peak to peak on something like that including RGB values.
hi what is a good site for finding modding and repair guides for OG xbox, dreamcast, wii, 360, ?
ive found that a cheap set of dental tools comes in handy
Yep they probably would work well.
yeah the hooked tools come in handy for lifting pins on occasion