a few weeks ago i told my grandfather who works with televisions and radios i need a new soldering iron he told me he still had a few from when he owned his shop so he gave a me a weller ec1002 and i absolutely love it. although they discontinued the model i have it looks brand new as a matter of fact i dont think it was ever used but basically what i am trying to say is ask around before you go buy brand new equipment someone may have something they want to get rid of
Couple of points on solder. The 2% silver stuff has a lower melting point and flows a bit nicer -recommended if you can get it. At the sizes used in electronics, it is not at all important for it to be multicored as opposed to single core - as long as it _does_ have a flux core it's fine. You rarely see non-cored solder outside of a plumbing shop. Multicore is just a sales gimmick by the company of the same name - might make a difference at really big sizes but not below 1mm.
Excellent. Thanks for a thorough overview. Last time I did hobby electronic soldering was in 1959.Now that I am a retiree want to get back into hobby electronics. Boy have things changed! Your blog was so helpful. Again thanks from the USA.
@Ghlargh The FX-888 has better thermal capacity than the 936 and the 926 before that. And the 926/936 is probably the biggest selling and most popular soldering station of all time. Perhaps only the Weller WTCP might surpass it in terms of popularity. Sure, it's not the best iron available, but it high quality, under $100, and more than suitable for most applications.
Love your videos, they really help beginners like myself. Started out with a no name fixed temp. soldering iron some years ago for through hole soldering, and recently wanted to start with SMD stuff, so after watching your lab equipment video i got myself an hakko-888 with some different sized chisel tips, its just so much better than before, and now i regret not getting a proper iron earlier on. Best money ever spent, next on the purchase list is that Agilent scope you reviewed earlier.
Dave, fantastic video series on soldering. I consider myself pretty good with the iron but I learned a lot of useful tips. Thank you for producing these excellent videos.
11 year ago i discovered this video of yours.. and since then i have religiously watched all of them.. and honestly i can say that i owe my soldering skills to this particular video of yours.. THANK YOU!
BIGGEST TRAP FOR NEW PLAYERS.. a hot bare iron tip will oxidize and you'll lose thermal conductivity and ruin the tip! A new solder iron tip should be tinned immediately (as soon as the solder will melt onto it). From there on out the tip should never be without some solder tinned on it, you'll need to wipe and retin every so often while working (some do it between every joint)
This is still 99% up to date. There are some good cheaper brands of irons but it can be a hit and miss. I have a quality brand iron with 25 years of age and I only updated it to get some tiny details better. The detail was irons getting more power (no need for large mass thermally) and smaller pen like irons I like with smaller components. Glasses and eye protection is rarely mentioned. I have had lead spash and glasses have been a great thing then. When you pull a component and it suddenly releaseses, it can throw molten solder.
I did a Computer Science degree recently, which starts out with some electrical engineering content, and I had a nice chuckle at that shirt, myself. :-)
I'm an absolute beginner and I appreciate the time you have put into your videos. I've learned alot and am excited about my new hobby. I've already made a couple of purchases based on your recommendations, including the soldering station and the UEi DM393 Multimeter. Thank you!
I learned to solder with a big fat iron that was heated in a gas burner. Two irons, one in use and one heating, and keep swapping them over. I guess that tells you roughly how old I am.
lol i didnt buy my cheap irons.. one was given to me by my grandfather.. the tip was garb so i jacked my stepdads shitty iron... super frustrating... ordered a hakko yesterday lol
Man in 3rd world countries 95% of us have AC mains soldering irons that have lasted for like 10yrs. Because there is so much demand for these cheapies, they are of better quality than the ones u guys have. Brands like hakko & Weller are almost impossible to get here & are way too costly. There are so many fakes of these that it's safer to avoid the big name brands. The same goes for flux & solder. The funny part is we are used to using these cheap irons & can do pretty good quality soldering. Ofcourse not as good as top notch soldering but the point is they are not completely impossible to use. Hell here they even recomend you not to waste ur money to temp controlled soldering irons.
@TheMFrelly I mentioned that in my tools blog. But really used for soldering. You generally don't want to thermally shock the device at both ends of the spectrum!
You've answered such a big question for me! For years I thought the smoke that comes up from solder had a resemblance to the smell of pine. Now I find out from your description that that's exactly what it is. Mystery solved! The brush-on flux I use is plumber's soldering flux for sweat joints, and it works great for electronics. What's in the core of my solder often isn't good enough to make it stick to the metal and this stuff is essential. I wish I had that stuff 20 years ago!
Can you do one on desoldering please. I've ruined 2 boards trying to desolder components from them because the solder on the actual board doesn't heat up enough to melt, but hot enough to melt the coating on the board. I'm finding it incredibly difficult to desolder lol.
EEVblog the thing is we are not pros like you. I've watched tons of your videos and had the same issue. with multi layered pcb's like motherboards things are way much harder to desolder. you can't just use a common desoldering tool like some of the ones you show. don't get me wrong you do a great job at it and it makes it look easy. but those things aren't going to work with more complex pcb's. I thought I could grab a desoldering gun and start removing components like you show on the video. doesn't work. I need something much better in order to do it. but it's perfecly fine for most stuff. kudos to you sir.
Desoldering can get quite difficult, especially for small components, or for very large components with huge thermal pads. I don't actually use wick at all, I swear by my desoldering bulb (got it a few years ago at Radio Shack) you can do wonders with a soldering iron and a bulb. That being said, practice definitely makes perfect: find some junk boards and get the components off. I actually find it quite relaxing to just take a board and de-populate it. I've been doing it for a year and a half now, and it helps a lot when I'm trying to repair something important, not to mention it'll grow your component collection if you can get the parts off in one piece. That being said, a tutorial covering multiple techniques for desoldering would be a good video
I wish I saw this video earlier. Cheap soldering irons caused me so much frustration. I thought I was bad at soldering but I could get better if I have the right tools. Thank you so much Dave for making this video!
Dave Thanks so much for these video's I have been doing rudimentary soldering for repairs around the house and such but after watching your video's I realize that i have been doing so much wrong, but thanks to your tutorials I have learned so much. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
+Andrew the Celt The first pipes may have been wood. I believe the Italians excavated log pipes a few years back. They were cut in half, hollowed and put back together and sealed with pitch or tar. They were still carrying water. Isn't that amazing?
StereoSpace the Indus valley civilization had a water and sewer system with brick and gypsum mortar and the Minoans used clay at Knossos and that predates the Romans and even the Etruscans by a long time but yeah, it's amazing the mod-cons of the ancients.
Mate, you just my day. Had to use half destroyed college soldering tools. After this video, I bought my own. Now I can make my bachelors degree work at home.
best comment @ 21:22 "it's ok if it lands in you"re lap & burns your leg,everyone does that, you'll learn your lesson the hard way" ! no worries mate, LOL !
I can only hope that you also have a vid like this for how to solder. This is the detailed info I have been trying to find on UA-cam for two years! Thank you:)
Wow! I gave up on soldering because all I ever used what cheap plastic packed irons. Bought a hakko and I solder like a pro. It's incredibly easy like you say. Usually the tool is only half the battle but for soldering, it's closer to 90%. I've already fixed, modified, built so many things in the last month since I first watched this video. Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Seeing this vid I realize that it's a small miracle my PlayStation2 is still working at all (I built in a modchip myself). * wrong kind of soldering iron (plugged directly into the wall socket) * wrong kind of soldering tip (pointed) * wrong kind of solder (1mm thick or perhaps even worse) * wrong technique (put solder to iron, then try to solder a wire to an IC) * no goggles, no gloves, no fan I did use a microscope, but that forced me to put my face right above the project, and since the whole process took so long (see the above list for the reasons why) I must have inhaled half a reel of solder...
I usually use even worse things: A cheap chinese soldering station (ZD-937), pointed tips, 2mm solder (was a birthday present and it somehow works really good), no magnifying glasses etc and I still haven't build the fan
Well Dave you crazy Auzzie I have been watching your stuff for a while now and loved these videos on soldering. Well guess what, I managed to remove and replace the convergence ICs in my Hitachi 63" DLP projector TV and it worked. Bought a Hakko FX888D and even set it up in Centigrade (even though I am in the USA) because the tutorials I received training from (that would be yours) are in degrees Centigrade. I want to thank you for the excellent work. I Love my Hakko and the EEVBLOG!!!
@EEVblog I ordered one. Tequipment lists a T18-D16 tip as the included tip. Thanks to that I got free shipping, from a monetary point of view ($7 less to spend on tips).
Cal Sanchez my point is that theres somthing u cant do with a $5 soldering iron.. u'll eventually need a good quality iron.. i'm saying this from experience.
The internet can be rather shitty at times, Thats why i always enjoy watching Dave Jones, He cracks me up, I would really like to meet him in person so i could thank him for so much great information, Beauty!
Anyone have advice for soldering electronics with one hand? I came up with a few possibilities, but haven't been able to test any of them yet. * Was thinking of getting a 30W (lowest offered) Hakko MG, which is a gun type soldering iron that pushes out solder when you pull the trigger. However, many people say that 30W is a lot for an inexperienced person and others say gun types aren't good for the precise work needed for electronics. * Can I first paint the areas to be soldered with flux, coat the iron tip with solder, and then apply it? * can I cut the solder wire into small pieces, place them next to the areas to be soldered and then use the iron? Will any of these work? Does anyone have a better idea that doesn't involve $500+ equipment?
Dave I've also had bad luck with the "Aluminum" Solder suckers... they tend to get clogged up sooner... so i switched to a Plastic model and it works like a charm!
Thanks, this is great! I have been soldering since my childhood, from cables to game consoles, and have been doing it with the wrong tools all along. Back then, there weren't videos like these. Even though I have managed just fine, I'm sure it will be much less of a hassle once the right tools are here.
Dude i want to give you my deep TKS if you don't know i'm following you since you're very beginning, always given good advice, tks to you i made one of my best purchase one DMM fluke 174 based in an extensive guide you made years ago. Hope you keep doing well and even better.
A lot of overkill on this guy's advice. And, he talks too much. If you're just playing or have simple solder tasks, the cheap irons do just fine. I've used them for 30 years with great results. But, glad better equipment is available. I'd get the equipment he recommends ONLY if you're wanting to get very serious about this hobby.
Cheap stuff is just okay. I used a cheap iron for a couple of years, it got the job done. But I invested in the HAKKO FX-888 iron and it is worth every dollar.
Instant thumbs up normally when I comment on videos I go out on my way to talk or point out a video that's dodgy this is a video that's actually been extremely helpful and is a gem among a sea of garbage it's a shame excellent content you have such great content you solve my soldering problem I can't think you enough 🤗
MRSASQUATCH559 depwnds on the time of day you watch him. What time were you watching? And what are your sleeping and waking hours? I can then five you the appropriate time where he will not annoy you.
Hi Dave , A very good video regarding soldering & whether to choose a soldering station over soldering irons.I agree with dave that soldering station is very useful for soldering IC's,SOIC components.Here in India Weller & Hakko are very costly in range of $200-250 for basic anlalog models.I am using Goot PX501
I do most of my hobby projects that require soldering with point-to-point technique using fine transformer wire coated with self-melting insulation. I used to do it with cheap low power soldering irons bought from Radio Shack and I must say it was not much of a fun. I also used thick lead free rosin solder and messy rosin soldering flux/paste. I watched this video and treated myself to the Hakko digital temp. controlled soldering station fx-888d and chisel tips. This is now much more pleasant work. I also took some more advice from this video and bough fine solder, flux pen and solder wick. Now the next PCB work requiring 200+ point to point connections is not as terrifying as before. Thank you for this video.
@electrodacus Yes, 0.8 or 1mm solder for larger through hole work, definitely. But I like to promote the thinner stuff to aid beginners in applying the right amount of solder, which then flows down to SMD work.
My horrible Radio Shack 40 watt iron just broke today. I'm planning on spending the money and getting the Hakko FX-888. This video has helped me greatly.
10:30 it really is the biggest tip he gives!!! It helped me a lot even when using a crappy radioshack cheap soldering iron... And Dave I finally ordered a Hakko fx-888 digital... the analog was more expensive on amazon.. :/
@EEVblog, excellent video Dave, wanted to comment for new users. Another great & extremely cheap lead cutters is a simple toe nail clippers. It costs near nothing and cuts through hole components perfectly with minimal effort.
Great demonstration; I use the Hakko 939 model with the 60/40 solder base that gives a nice clean shiny look to my work along with the wire mesh that keeps tip temperature constant and provides longer life to the tip.
@jfernandmy What would you like to see in terms of safety? I've mentioned gloves, goggles, and fume extraction, is there anything else really? I could mention not to grab the hot end! :-> I don't really want to mention the same things again to keep the videos as short as possible. Although there are always those who will only watch one part and not the others, so won't get the full story?
This video is posted 8 years ago, and still useful to beginners with soldering (including myself). The only difference is that the Hakko FX888 has gone from variable analog temperature setting to digital. Also thanks for explaining thoroughly about the soldering tips, I always thought the finer the tip the better it is. But according to this tutorial a shizzle one is recommended. The only part that is puzzling me is why every expert is recommending lead-free soldering, while here in this video a combination of lead (PB) and tin (SN) is advised.
Stanimir That is no argument for not using lead, it is rather an excuse for the use of non-lead. In this video lead (PB) and tin (SN) is advised. I would like a second-opinion from an expert why this is a good idea.
Hey man, great video for a novice such as myself. Learned a lot and I've already had some great success with it. One criticism though because its kind of a big one. Please dont shy away from safety concerns. If you're teaching people how to do something you shouldn't just say get a fan/filter because asthma and "all sorts of nasty stuff". If you're trying to teach people health concerns are the utmost important. If a newbie watched only your video, that "nasty stuff" is lung cancer, and choose to go do years of projects without a fan, you've literally hurt someone with dangerous misinformation.
Nice video, Dave. Just one comment about magnifiers : many of us have a pc in our lab so... the usb microscope is excellent. It is very handy (easy to take a snapshot or a small movie with the right software) and it is really cheap (about 20-25 $ shipping cost include). The only downside : CMOS technology, not CCD, so it is not perfect but for the price... wooah ! At university, I remember using a old Sony device with a big stand and small screen : the image wasn't better and it cost 2000$ !
11 років тому
Dave, first I must say that I find all your videos wonderful. Now, if you allow me the criticism, recommending a top of the line solder iron isn't going to help many people; in these days it is quite frequent to see people with arduinos and the such with just casual use of the soldering iron, which long for price/performance rather than absolute quality. When you live in another country, so, the prices might be higher: Hakko FX-888 is about US$ 250 here in Brazil.
Great blog Dave as usual. I bought a Hakko FX-888D based off your video (with a digital readout) and am very pleased with it, awesome piece of kit! I have been looking into certification recently, with the idea being if I wanted to take my hobby stuff a bit more serious and actually start selling it. It looks like for CE/RoHS it needs to be lead-free solder, the guidance is a bit confusing but just a heads-up for anyone else (please let me know if I'm wrong). I probably will need to buy new tips, sponge, wire etc, not the end of the world but something to think about. Anyway, appreciate your video is just for starting out so not a criticism so much as advice for others.
Sigh cause of budget concerns I had to get that cheap iron u talked about and boy does it suck. Now saving saving up for a Hakko. Also tried a cheapo solder wick that didn't seem to have much flux and made removing solder harder than necessary. So yup save up for the better stuff.
David many thanks for a fantastic tutorial. I wish I had spent 30 minutes listening to you before I went out and bought a cheap iron, 1mm lead free solder and ended up destroying a perfectly good Pi Zero.
I left my Weller on after replacing the cheapo caps in a very nice Japanese guitar. 5 days later I noticed it. OOps! The tip loosened up and the tip also scaled over, but no harm no foul! A lot of Weller stuff is now made in Mexico. Mine is variable temp, and safe for ESD MOSFET stuff. I have been using that pair of Wellers for years, and have a micro pencil too. All fit a two pencil base unit. I use silver bearing, lead free and lead tin. The optivisor came into play a while back. .
Mr. Jones: A person from the Pololu Robotics Company recommended your video. You see, they sell stepper motors and the drivers which are very small circuit boards with tiny, tiny, tiny soldering points to hold the "header pins" in place. It is vital that the soldering be good as there is a lot of pushing and pulling on the "header pins". However, Pololu sells ALL there stepper motor drivers without soldering their "header pins" onto the driver. I don't know the reason for this.
so, in fact, with a regulated station your iron is ready on 10 seconds (not 2 minutes) you can solder very fragiles CMS LED, you can solder with minimal temperature, without damaging the plastic of wire, and using the power stockage for huge soldering. With a station you will have lot's of different tips, and insulated iron (for not destroy some fragiles components).
I've found getting a good flux cleaner or solvent spray along with a hard bristle brush helps alot to clear the flux residue so you can see the joint and prevent shorts through stray metal in the flux.
iv been soldering for years with cheap soldering irons and they dont last long but i have no choice because i cant afford a expensive soldering iron. however thanks to you i got a chizzel tip and now soldering is soo much easier. i use to struggle at times to get good heat transfer. now its really fast. thanks
Thank you for the much needed advice. Why can't all tutorial videos be like yours. Very good man, I'm a beginner by the way but I have learnt a lot today. :-) Keep it up man
@thewii552 When a video is first uploaded to youtube, they first publish the low res version. If a subscriber notices a new post immediately, the low res version is the only one that comes up. Wait about 5-10 min, and all versions will be available.
This was extremely informative. Thank you very much for uploading this. I subscribed. I am getting into soldering thru a cold joint on my gauge cluster in my Mustang. Hopefully a touch with the iron and a touch of solder will do.
I think you can power a small city on this guy's energy
i love this, lmfao
He is so weird, it's scary! and his videos despite being useful are way tooooo long (not referring to THIS vid in particular)
LMAO
You crack me up
@@patrizia5924 Don't watch them. 🙅🤷🏻♀️
I don't care what others say, I don't find your voice annoying; I think your enthusiasm is great and engaging.
a few weeks ago i told my grandfather who works with televisions and radios i need a new soldering iron he told me he still had a few from when he owned his shop so he gave a me a weller ec1002 and i absolutely love it. although they discontinued the model i have it looks brand new as a matter of fact i dont think it was ever used but basically what i am trying to say is ask around before you go buy brand new equipment someone may have something they want to get rid of
Couple of points on solder. The 2% silver stuff has a lower melting point and flows a bit nicer -recommended if you can get it.
At the sizes used in electronics, it is not at all important for it to be multicored as opposed to single core - as long as it _does_ have a flux core it's fine.
You rarely see non-cored solder outside of a plumbing shop.
Multicore is just a sales gimmick by the company of the same name - might make a difference at really big sizes but not below 1mm.
Dave, a fully trained PBC design engineer
"You'd like to learn how to walk? Okay! Lets do it!"
Respect
Excellent. Thanks for a thorough overview. Last time I did hobby electronic soldering was in 1959.Now that I am a retiree want to get back into hobby electronics. Boy have things changed! Your blog was so helpful. Again thanks from the USA.
@Ghlargh The FX-888 has better thermal capacity than the 936 and the 926 before that. And the 926/936 is probably the biggest selling and most popular soldering station of all time. Perhaps only the Weller WTCP might surpass it in terms of popularity.
Sure, it's not the best iron available, but it high quality, under $100, and more than suitable for most applications.
Love your videos, they really help beginners like myself.
Started out with a no name fixed temp. soldering iron some years ago for through hole soldering, and recently wanted to start with SMD stuff, so after watching your lab equipment video i got myself an hakko-888 with some different sized chisel tips, its just so much better than before, and now i regret not getting a proper iron earlier on.
Best money ever spent, next on the purchase list is that Agilent scope you reviewed earlier.
Dave, fantastic video series on soldering. I consider myself pretty good with the iron but I learned a lot of useful tips. Thank you for producing these excellent videos.
11 year ago i discovered this video of yours.. and since then i have religiously watched all of them.. and honestly i can say that i owe my soldering skills to this particular video of yours.. THANK YOU!
BIGGEST TRAP FOR NEW PLAYERS.. a hot bare iron tip will oxidize and you'll lose thermal conductivity and ruin the tip! A new solder iron tip should be tinned immediately (as soon as the solder will melt onto it). From there on out the tip should never be without some solder tinned on it, you'll need to wipe and retin every so often while working (some do it between every joint)
Yeah if you buy a $5 iron.
+MrQuidestveritas wet sponge thermally shocks the tip so they don't last as long. That's why the hakko stations have the brillo as well as the sponge.
I really appreciate the energy you bring to your work, it's obvious to see you're passionate about what you do and as a viewer, I appreciate that.
This is still 99% up to date. There are some good cheaper brands of irons but it can be a hit and miss. I have a quality brand iron with 25 years of age and I only updated it to get some tiny details better. The detail was irons getting more power (no need for large mass thermally) and smaller pen like irons I like with smaller components.
Glasses and eye protection is rarely mentioned. I have had lead spash and glasses have been a great thing then. When you pull a component and it suddenly releaseses, it can throw molten solder.
I've been soldering for about a year, still learned sooo much in this single video
Well it took me two years of college, but I finally understand the joke on that T-shirt.
LimitedWard you made my day xd ;)
You should order a shirt, and wear it proudly!
Now that's dedication
I did a Computer Science degree recently, which starts out with some electrical engineering content, and I had a nice chuckle at that shirt, myself. :-)
I'm an absolute beginner and I appreciate the time you have put into your videos. I've learned alot and am excited about my new hobby. I've already made a couple of purchases based on your recommendations, including the soldering station and the UEi DM393 Multimeter. Thank you!
I learned to solder with a big fat iron that was heated in a gas burner. Two irons, one in use and one heating, and keep swapping them over. I guess that tells you roughly how old I am.
your 10 years old (*˘︶˘*)
Not even close.!
Robert Langford lol
All that I'll admit to is being a tad over 21.
+Robert Langford haha
One of the better "tutorial" video's I've seen on UA-cam. Very informative.
"Don't buy a AC Mains soldering Unit"
Well, fuck.
same
Did you buy that crap from the same company that sells water heater that is basically two open metal plates inside a plastic tube?
Did the same thing
lol i didnt buy my cheap irons.. one was given to me by my grandfather.. the tip was garb so i jacked my stepdads shitty iron... super frustrating... ordered a hakko yesterday lol
Man in 3rd world countries 95% of us have AC mains soldering irons that have lasted for like 10yrs. Because there is so much demand for these cheapies, they are of better quality than the ones u guys have. Brands like hakko & Weller are almost impossible to get here & are way too costly. There are so many fakes of these that it's safer to avoid the big name brands. The same goes for flux & solder.
The funny part is we are used to using these cheap irons & can do pretty good quality soldering. Ofcourse not as good as top notch soldering but the point is they are not completely impossible to use. Hell here they even recomend you not to waste ur money to temp controlled soldering irons.
@TheMFrelly I mentioned that in my tools blog. But really used for soldering. You generally don't want to thermally shock the device at both ends of the spectrum!
superbly well-done tutorial and info...as expected
You've answered such a big question for me! For years I thought the smoke that comes up from solder had a resemblance to the smell of pine. Now I find out from your description that that's exactly what it is. Mystery solved!
The brush-on flux I use is plumber's soldering flux for sweat joints, and it works great for electronics. What's in the core of my solder often isn't good enough to make it stick to the metal and this stuff is essential. I wish I had that stuff 20 years ago!
Can you do one on desoldering please. I've ruined 2 boards trying to desolder components from them because the solder on the actual board doesn't heat up enough to melt, but hot enough to melt the coating on the board. I'm finding it incredibly difficult to desolder lol.
James Jeffery desoldering (and soldering) is all about thermal capacity. The type of tip, the contact area, the heater type all play a role.
EEVblog the thing is we are not pros like you. I've watched tons of your videos and had the same issue.
with multi layered pcb's like motherboards things are way much harder to desolder. you can't just use a common desoldering tool like some of the ones you show.
don't get me wrong you do a great job at it and it makes it look easy. but those things aren't going to work with more complex pcb's.
I thought I could grab a desoldering gun and start removing components like you show on the video. doesn't work. I need something much better in order to do it. but it's perfecly fine for most stuff.
kudos to you sir.
same issue. were those multilayered pcb's? probably yes. you need much better equipment.
Desoldering can get quite difficult, especially for small components, or for very large components with huge thermal pads. I don't actually use wick at all, I swear by my desoldering bulb (got it a few years ago at Radio Shack) you can do wonders with a soldering iron and a bulb. That being said, practice definitely makes perfect: find some junk boards and get the components off. I actually find it quite relaxing to just take a board and de-populate it. I've been doing it for a year and a half now, and it helps a lot when I'm trying to repair something important, not to mention it'll grow your component collection if you can get the parts off in one piece. That being said, a tutorial covering multiple techniques for desoldering would be a good video
Will defiantly be doing that Andrew.
I wish I saw this video earlier. Cheap soldering irons caused me so much frustration. I thought I was bad at soldering but I could get better if I have the right tools. Thank you so much Dave for making this video!
Me gustan sus videos, felicitaciones.
Saludos desde Colombia.
ĺĺ)))₩
Dave Thanks so much for these video's I have been doing rudimentary soldering for repairs around the house and such but after watching your video's I realize that i have been doing so much wrong, but thanks to your tutorials I have learned so much. Thanks again and keep up the good work.
Sn (Latin) Stannum - Tin
Pb (Latin) Plumbum - Lead
Ag (Latin) Argentum - Silver
StereoSpace got it！
Thus plumbing getting its name, considering the first forms of plumbing were using lead pipes and stuff
+Miles Eaton the first forms of pipes were clay but basically yes, I'm just being a smart ass.
+Andrew the Celt The first pipes may have been wood. I believe the Italians excavated log pipes a few years back. They were cut in half, hollowed and put back together and sealed with pitch or tar. They were still carrying water. Isn't that amazing?
StereoSpace the Indus valley civilization had a water and sewer system with brick and gypsum mortar and the Minoans used clay at Knossos and that predates the Romans and even the Etruscans by a long time but yeah, it's amazing the mod-cons of the ancients.
Mate, you just my day. Had to use half destroyed college soldering tools. After this video, I bought my own. Now I can make my bachelors degree work at home.
best comment @ 21:22 "it's ok if it lands in you"re lap & burns your leg,everyone does that, you'll learn your lesson the hard way" ! no worries mate, LOL !
I can only hope that you also have a vid like this for how to solder. This is the detailed info I have been trying to find on UA-cam for two years! Thank you:)
Wow! I gave up on soldering because all I ever used what cheap plastic packed irons. Bought a hakko and I solder like a pro. It's incredibly easy like you say. Usually the tool is only half the battle but for soldering, it's closer to 90%. I've already fixed, modified, built so many things in the last month since I first watched this video. Thank you thank you thank you!!!
Thanks to these videos I have soldered 3 circuit boards successfully on my first attempts! Thanks a million!
Seeing this vid I realize that it's a small miracle my PlayStation2 is still working at all (I built in a modchip myself).
* wrong kind of soldering iron (plugged directly into the wall socket)
* wrong kind of soldering tip (pointed)
* wrong kind of solder (1mm thick or perhaps even worse)
* wrong technique (put solder to iron, then try to solder a wire to an IC)
* no goggles, no gloves, no fan
I did use a microscope, but that forced me to put my face right above the project, and since the whole process took so long (see the above list for the reasons why) I must have inhaled half a reel of solder...
I usually use even worse things: A cheap chinese soldering station (ZD-937), pointed tips, 2mm solder (was a birthday present and it somehow works really good), no magnifying glasses etc and I still haven't build the fan
Just 2 vids from you will save me hundreds going forward...thanks!
After my 34 years of soldering, I find the results to be not as good when I use the big stuff. Each to their own.
Discovered this channel today. That's my evening sorted. Brilliant stuff!
But Dave, those fumes smell so good!
exactly my thought..
rip
Dave, thanks for the tutorials. I am a hobbyist and your information is my go to when I need info I can trust. Thanks again.
I'm new to electronic soldering and all of your info is top drawer=)
Congratulations on a fine set up blogs. I am a new electronic hobbyist. I watch all of your blogs and enjoy them tremendously.
Love your desk magnifier with the built in light !! What is that model? Where did you buy it?
For anyone else looking, I came across Glam Hobby 2.5X Reading Lamp Clamp Folding LED Lighted Magnifier: www.amazon.com/gp/product/B077V2RDSC
Well Dave you crazy Auzzie I have been watching your stuff for a while now and loved these videos on soldering. Well guess what, I managed to remove and replace the convergence ICs in my Hitachi 63" DLP projector TV and it worked. Bought a Hakko FX888D and even set it up in Centigrade (even though I am in the USA) because the tutorials I received training from (that would be yours) are in degrees Centigrade. I want to thank you for the excellent work. I Love my Hakko and the EEVBLOG!!!
Dave, in EU solder with lead is not allowed since some years, could you explain for your EU viewers how we can solder using this lead free solder ?
Move to the USA
I would hope you guys found a leadless solder alloy :o
@EEVblog I ordered one. Tequipment lists a T18-D16 tip as the included tip. Thanks to that I got free shipping, from a monetary point of view ($7 less to spend on tips).
I Agree With Buying Quality Products But I Always Thought What Makes Somebody A Pro Was Being Able To Use Anything To Do A Great Job.
Amen to that brother haha
Yeah! but u can't win a formula 1 race with a tractor.
suraj bhawal
Yeah And You Cant Race Motocross With A Ducati ?
What Is Your Point ?
Cal Sanchez my point is that theres somthing u cant do with a $5 soldering iron.. u'll eventually need a good quality iron.. i'm saying this from experience.
Cal Sanchez Why The Hell Are You Capitalizing Every Word!
The internet can be rather shitty at times, Thats why i always enjoy watching Dave Jones, He cracks me up, I would really like to meet him in person so i could thank him for so much great information, Beauty!
Anyone have advice for soldering electronics with one hand?
I came up with a few possibilities, but haven't been able to test any of them yet.
* Was thinking of getting a 30W (lowest offered) Hakko MG, which is a gun type soldering iron that pushes out solder when you pull the trigger. However, many people say that 30W is a lot for an inexperienced person and others say gun types aren't
good for the precise work needed for electronics.
* Can I first paint the areas to be soldered with flux, coat the iron tip with solder, and then apply it?
* can I cut the solder wire into small pieces, place them next to the areas to be soldered and then use the iron?
Will any of these work? Does anyone have a better idea that doesn't involve $500+ equipment?
erad67 All the best to you - I could never do it with one hand.
Awesome vlog for newbies. No BS. Straight to the point tips. With added enthusiastic delivery! =)
I just love your voice
Dave I've also had bad luck with the "Aluminum" Solder suckers... they tend to get clogged up sooner... so i switched to a Plastic model and it works like a charm!
You should sell a kit.
Thanks, this is great! I have been soldering since my childhood, from cables to game consoles, and have been doing it with the wrong tools all along. Back then, there weren't videos like these. Even though I have managed just fine, I'm sure it will be much less of a hassle once the right tools are here.
"I only give negative feedback" hahahaha
Dude i want to give you my deep TKS if you don't know i'm following you since you're very beginning, always given good advice, tks to you i made one of my best purchase one DMM fluke 174 based in an extensive guide you made years ago. Hope you keep doing well and even better.
A lot of overkill on this guy's advice. And, he talks too much. If you're just playing or have simple solder tasks, the cheap irons do just fine. I've used them for 30 years with great results. But, glad better equipment is available. I'd get the equipment he recommends ONLY if you're wanting to get very serious about this hobby.
Cheap stuff is just okay. I used a cheap iron for a couple of years, it got the job done. But I invested in the HAKKO FX-888 iron and it is worth every dollar.
Instant thumbs up normally when I comment on videos I go out on my way to talk or point out a video that's dodgy this is a video that's actually been extremely helpful and is a gem among a sea of garbage it's a shame excellent content you have such great content you solve my soldering problem I can't think you enough 🤗
His voice is more annoying than linus's from linustechtips
MRSASQUATCH559 depwnds on the time of day you watch him. What time were you watching? And what are your sleeping and waking hours? I can then five you the appropriate time where he will not annoy you.
You can always go elsewhere for a free education...
Hi Dave , A very good video regarding soldering & whether to choose a soldering station over soldering irons.I agree with dave that soldering station is very useful for soldering IC's,SOIC components.Here in India Weller & Hakko are very costly in range of $200-250 for basic anlalog models.I am using Goot PX501
@tronixstuff It's available in 720p for everyone, not just subscribers. Perhaps UA-cam hasn't finished processing it yet...
@LSDjTutorials Yep, already shot that footage. Part 2 & 3 are basically shot. It was going to be one big video, but I split into 3.
I do most of my hobby projects that require soldering with point-to-point technique using fine transformer wire coated with self-melting insulation. I used to do it with cheap low power soldering irons bought from Radio Shack and I must say it was not much of a fun. I also used thick lead free rosin solder and messy rosin soldering flux/paste. I watched this video and treated myself to the Hakko digital temp. controlled soldering station fx-888d and chisel tips. This is now much more pleasant work. I also took some more advice from this video and bough fine solder, flux pen and solder wick. Now the next PCB work requiring 200+ point to point connections is not as terrifying as before. Thank you for this video.
@electrodacus Yes, 0.8 or 1mm solder for larger through hole work, definitely. But I like to promote the thinner stuff to aid beginners in applying the right amount of solder, which then flows down to SMD work.
This guy is like my online shopping list; I would not remember shit about what I need without watching these videos.
My horrible Radio Shack 40 watt iron just broke today. I'm planning on spending the money and getting the Hakko FX-888. This video has helped me greatly.
10:30 it really is the biggest tip he gives!!! It helped me a lot even when using a crappy radioshack cheap soldering iron... And Dave I finally ordered a Hakko fx-888 digital... the analog was more expensive on amazon.. :/
@EEVblog, excellent video Dave, wanted to comment for new users. Another great & extremely cheap lead cutters is a simple toe nail clippers. It costs near nothing and cuts through hole components perfectly with minimal effort.
Kester is the solder brand I’ve used for years. Even the lead free flows very nicely.
Great demonstration; I use the Hakko 939 model with the 60/40 solder base that gives a nice clean shiny look to my work along with the wire mesh that keeps tip temperature constant and provides longer life to the tip.
@DanFrederiksen I've seen tin whiskers on production boards I've worked on. Probably got a few microscope photos somewhere.
@jfernandmy What would you like to see in terms of safety? I've mentioned gloves, goggles, and fume extraction, is there anything else really? I could mention not to grab the hot end! :->
I don't really want to mention the same things again to keep the videos as short as possible. Although there are always those who will only watch one part and not the others, so won't get the full story?
This video is posted 8 years ago, and still useful to beginners with soldering (including myself). The only difference is that the Hakko FX888 has gone from variable analog temperature setting to digital. Also thanks for explaining thoroughly about the soldering tips, I always thought the finer the tip the better it is. But according to this tutorial a shizzle one is recommended.
The only part that is puzzling me is why every expert is recommending lead-free soldering, while here in this video a combination of lead (PB) and tin (SN) is advised.
lead free is not recommended for practical purposes, for example it requires higher temperature. Lead is poisonous, which the video explains.
Stanimir That is no argument for not using lead, it is rather an excuse for the use of non-lead. In this video lead (PB) and tin (SN) is advised. I would like a second-opinion from an expert why this is a good idea.
I already learned more than 4 years of engineering school. Thank you!
Your enthusiasm and energy always makes me smile :)
@waynevict About $80-$90 US price. Yes, more expensive in Oz unfortunately.
Hey man, great video for a novice such as myself. Learned a lot and I've already had some great success with it. One criticism though because its kind of a big one. Please dont shy away from safety concerns. If you're teaching people how to do something you shouldn't just say get a fan/filter because asthma and "all sorts of nasty stuff". If you're trying to teach people health concerns are the utmost important. If a newbie watched only your video, that "nasty stuff" is lung cancer, and choose to go do years of projects without a fan, you've literally hurt someone with dangerous misinformation.
Nice video, Dave.
Just one comment about magnifiers : many of us have a pc in our lab so... the usb microscope is excellent. It is very handy (easy to take a snapshot or a small movie with the right software) and it is really cheap (about 20-25 $ shipping cost include). The only downside : CMOS technology, not CCD, so it is not perfect but for the price... wooah ! At university, I remember using a old Sony device with a big stand and small screen : the image wasn't better and it cost 2000$ !
Dave, first I must say that I find all your videos wonderful. Now, if you allow me the criticism, recommending a top of the line solder iron isn't going to help many people; in these days it is quite frequent to see people with arduinos and the such with just casual use of the soldering iron, which long for price/performance rather than absolute quality. When you live in another country, so, the prices might be higher: Hakko FX-888 is about US$ 250 here in Brazil.
Great blog Dave as usual. I bought a Hakko FX-888D based off your video (with a digital readout) and am very pleased with it, awesome piece of kit! I have been looking into certification recently, with the idea being if I wanted to take my hobby stuff a bit more serious and actually start selling it. It looks like for CE/RoHS it needs to be lead-free solder, the guidance is a bit confusing but just a heads-up for anyone else (please let me know if I'm wrong). I probably will need to buy new tips, sponge, wire etc, not the end of the world but something to think about. Anyway, appreciate your video is just for starting out so not a criticism so much as advice for others.
Sigh cause of budget concerns I had to get that cheap iron u talked about and boy does it suck. Now saving saving up for a Hakko. Also tried a cheapo solder wick that didn't seem to have much flux and made removing solder harder than necessary. So yup save up for the better stuff.
Dave helped me out big time. You should watch all 3 videos and then go tackle that videogame modding job.
Thank you so much for creating this tutorial. I have always been deeply interested in soldering and now I know so much more about it.
Excellent video Dave! Can't wait until parts 2 & 3. I bought a Hakko on your recommendation (with a chisel tip of course). Thanks again.
David many thanks for a fantastic tutorial. I wish I had spent 30 minutes listening to you before I went out and bought a cheap iron, 1mm lead free solder and ended up destroying a perfectly good Pi Zero.
I left my Weller on after replacing the cheapo caps in a very nice Japanese guitar. 5 days later I noticed it. OOps! The tip loosened up and the tip also scaled over, but no harm no foul! A lot of Weller stuff is now made in Mexico. Mine is variable temp, and safe for ESD MOSFET stuff. I have been using that pair of Wellers for years, and have a micro pencil too. All fit a two pencil base unit. I use silver bearing, lead free and lead tin. The optivisor came into play a while back. .
@DeeSwizzle No idea. Jaycar in Australia.
Mr. Jones: A person from the Pololu Robotics Company recommended your video. You see, they sell stepper motors and the drivers which are very small circuit boards with tiny, tiny, tiny soldering points to hold the "header pins" in place. It is vital that the soldering be good as there is a lot of pushing and pulling on the "header pins". However, Pololu sells ALL there stepper motor drivers without soldering their "header pins" onto the driver. I don't know the reason for this.
so, in fact, with a regulated station your iron is ready on 10 seconds (not 2 minutes) you can solder very fragiles CMS LED, you can solder with minimal temperature, without damaging the plastic of wire, and using the power stockage for huge soldering. With a station you will have lot's of different tips, and insulated iron (for not destroy some fragiles components).
@jjlwis I prefer the sponge. Probably more out of tradition than anything else.
I've found getting a good flux cleaner or solvent spray along with a hard bristle brush helps alot to clear the flux residue so you can see the joint and prevent shorts through stray metal in the flux.
Wow, this is a great video. It's essential for someone like me that knows nothing about soldering.
I think the best money I ever spent with regards to soldering is a stereo microscope. I love that thing.
Can't wait for parts 2 and 3.
iv been soldering for years with cheap soldering irons and they dont last long but i have no choice because i cant afford a expensive soldering iron. however thanks to you i got a chizzel tip and now soldering is soo much easier. i use to struggle at times to get good heat transfer. now its really fast. thanks
@mllarson Ah, perfect then. Maybe they changed it?, or maybe different tips in different regions?
Thank you for the much needed advice. Why can't all tutorial videos be like yours. Very good man, I'm a beginner by the way but I have learnt a lot today. :-) Keep it up man
@thewii552 When a video is first uploaded to youtube, they first publish the low res version. If a subscriber notices a new post immediately, the low res version is the only one that comes up. Wait about 5-10 min, and all versions will be available.
My iron died a few months back so i bought a Hakko FX-951 to replace it and wow talk about quality. Its amazing.
This was extremely informative. Thank you very much for uploading this. I subscribed. I am getting into soldering thru a cold joint on my gauge cluster in my Mustang. Hopefully a touch with the iron and a touch of solder will do.
Great video David, incredibly detailed. And thanks for the shout out!
i tend to solder in my kitchen under the fume hood of the stove, especially for long 12 hr solder jobs, man , it makes the world of difference.
Learned so much from your videos in this subject, thank you so much for taking the time to make these videos! Greetings from Sweden:)