BMW N52 Eccentric Shaft Sensor Replacement *MUST WATCH*
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- Опубліковано 6 вер 2024
- BMW N52 Eccentric Shaft Sensor Replacement. This tiny sensor made my engine run like crap.
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You gotta love these BMWs. Always something to keep us on our toes! Great content
Cheers Steve
I'm finding this out too, lol
@@charliekarting3401 I'm getting 17.5 mpg city + highway average after getting my engine bay cleaned. any idea wtf is happening on my 128i?? no codes and seems to run better than before the poor gas milage.
So many sensors and modules you have to replace in a BMW before 100k miles is a joke.
Yea that’s the only thing I don’t like. 200$ or more at least for most sensors. You’ll spend easy 1k on just sensors because they failed
Facts I just reached 91,000 and for it's birthday the car decided to stop using this sensor
Im at 78k. My 128i fails on warm start.
This is why frequent oil changes in BMW are so important. Lots of sensors and components and gaskets that must bathe in the crummy old oil people try to push to 10k miles just change your oil every 5-7k. Just one extended interval can lead to all sorts of issues down the road. Seals failing prematurely, oil getting into electrical connectors clogged Vanos solenoids and more. Plastic sensors like ESS are susceptible to oil based damage as well.
If you notice the outer part of the oil pan gasket does not become brittle and hard like the inner part of the gasket. People say its just crap design and material but metal + rubber gaskets are the best kind of gasket designs. When your oil pan leaks on these cars you can touch the part of the gasket that hangs out and it is perfectly pliable while the inner part that is in constant contact old with oil will fall apart. Basically, some level of what they call "crankcase dilution" where fuel naturally gets into the oil and in turn can harden the rubber materials or cause them to degrade faster.
Hey mate, just wanted to say thanks for these videos, I am purchasing a 130i in a week and your channel has been a massive help in understanding a lot more about it and once I have it, your channel will be a great resource for working on that car. Keep up the awesome work!
🙌🏼
My lord imagine dropping one of those bolts down the block. Thanks for the upload George!.
I know lol 😅
Oil is conductive and it was scrambling the information that the sensor was trying to send to the ECU and that is why it shut off the valvetronic system and defaulted to running on the throttle body. How do I know? The same thing happened to me. I cleaned it all with Electronic contact cleaner that was not conductive and would not harm plastic -- After that it purred like a kitten and my gas mileage returned to the high 20's -- 28 highway and 25 in town.
I haven't read codes yet, but what my N52 does is when I cold start in the morning at the first start the engine starts nicely but then drops the rev and engine shuts off (if I give it a little bit of gas before it would shut off it doesn't) second try it usually runs nice even without pushing the gas pedal. It doesn't have any other symtomps, no loss of power, nothing. Plus if I drive just a few hundreds of meters, turn it off, turn it back on it doesnt do it again. But after 8 hours of work it does it again. This seems like a long procedure to replace, and I can't do it myself , do you have any idea if this is the issue or by my description something else? Thank you, even though I don't do the mechanic work I love watching your videos and having a better understanding of what's under the hood.
Hi. I am facing the exact same issue that you re describing. Please let me know, did you find the root cause of this issue? Did you fix it?
@@alextitus2580 Nope, unfortanely nothing fixed it yet, I'm kinda used to it now and don't wanna just randomly change expensive parts for this.
@@bojlitj7511 thanks for letting me know. It happens all the time that on first turning on (after a few hours after the engine is turned off) to die or there are times when is not dying ?
@@alextitus2580 I think it would die every time, unless I gave it gas, but I'm not really experimenting anymore cause I don't want to it to die, so I just give it some gas, what happens sometimes is when I start the engine it revs a bit higher first, then I have to constantly give it gas for a bit longer, not just 1 throttle, otherwise it will die. But most of the time just a small push to the throtthle is enough. Do you have higher oil consumption?
@@bojlitj7511 thanks for update. No the oil consumption is like 2 liters / 9k km
you can take the plastic cover without removing the filter. Just unscrew the bolts and it will pop out. When you only need to replace the seal
It is worth it to remove the cowl as well. You just remove the wiper arms and the plastic bits under it. It will make installing the valve cover gasket easier. For the plastic cover, you can't get it out without fighting it up plus you need more space for the ccv pipe so you don't break it. It is rock hard on most cars.
Last but not least the plastic cover has spark plugs tubes which are also a pain to remove unless you have c clip pliers.
I have the sensor faults on my N52 along with mixture control faults. Could the valvetronic system failing cause that or just the sensor on its own (no oil in plug). Many people who ive spoken to about this have claimed the sensors dont often fail?
Is the valvetronic position relearn something you need to do or would it do it itself? Thank you for all these videos. So helpful
The only thing that you really needed to do was to clean the oil out of that connector well very well and clean the connections and then replace that seal. That seal can be changed out with a new replacement WITHOUT removing the valve cover.
Wrong. The sensor fails internally and weeps oil into the top of the sensor where the pins are. No seal cam stop this
How to relearn the valvetronic limit positions?
I’m looking at forums. It appears that we may be able to reset the valvetronic adaptations by inserting the key, pressing the start button (foot off brake) and the adaptations should be reset. Your thoughts, George?
Yes that is correct Jon!
So literally just turn the ignition on and jobs a good un? Surprisingly easy
@@brodiehaward ʻ
U are a good mechanic and I like that and I like the fact that you can teach and walk me thru the work please just keep it up good work
Brilliant, well done. Good to see an open and closed case with a happy ending 😊
Cheers Bryce!
Putting in a new valvetronic, do I need it to learn anything? If so, how do we go about that.
Dies that sensor causes Valvetronic codes? Does it also keeps your car from starting up? My car just cranks.
I have problems on cold start for a few seconds the idle is rough, and afterward everything is good i would say. All glow plugs are changed and the relay too. Can an oxygen sensor be faulty without reporting an DTC? What is the best way to test it, can it be cleaned maybe?
The car is E91 LCI 318D 105kw 11/09, it has only 1 oxygen sensor I would say only on the DPF, next to the temperature exhaust sensor and the pipe for pressure sensor.
Thank you for the answer in advance.
Yes an O2 sensor can get lazy and not throw a code.
Hey bro, thanks for not mentioning exactly how the eccentric shaft motor needs to be removed. I ended up chipping a few teeth on the gear when it snapped back on the screw gear.
For anyone watching this, use a 4mm Allen key in the hole on the back of the motor and turn clockwise until you feel it stop BEFORE removing it or you’ll end up having to buy a $1200 eccentric shaft. Do the opposite when placing it back in.
I did explain how to remove it?
@@GeorgeAusters Bro, watch your video and you will see you didn't, haha.
@@Cheezus_ROBO Sorry I explained much more in this video: ua-cam.com/video/rRK-lLR7YqI/v-deo.html
Would this cause a bad rattle from the engine that completely goes away after 2000 rpms?
You’ll have fault codes for eccentric shaft sensor
Why didn't you show replacing the sensor seal? That was the one thing I came to watch...
It literally just pushes in
You just use a pick to get it out or if you're doing the entire valve gasket you simply push it out from the inside
Hi George. Good job! After all did the consumption improved ? Please let me know.
Hi I have a 2007 328i 3.0l i6 is this car a n52 or n53 I can't figure it out it's a 4 door sedan manufactured in Germany
Your engine bay is immaculate!! My 09 328i is at over 100k miles now, is there any way i can get mine to look this clean?!
Yes I made a video cleaning it: ua-cam.com/video/dmXAWb0YpQs/v-deo.html
@@GeorgeAusters liked and subscribed!!!
Welcome to the channel bud 🙌🏻
Hi George! Great video! I found you because of a problem with my 2009 128i N51. It's a crank, no start. It has the following "Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor; plausibility" codes; 2A38 (Valvetronic sluggish or open circuit), 2A37, & 2A47. Based on your video, it looks like I need to check the Valvetronic shaft sensor for oil contamination (sluggish or open circuit).
I have not done any work on this new-to-me 128i other than oil change and filter changes. I have done plenty of DIY work on Toyotas and Subarus.
Once you completed this job, at around the 13th minute, you mentioned the need to 'relearn Valvetronic limit positions'. Is this a requirement when replacing the eccentric shaft sensor, or was it to resolve the timing problem you spoke about? If required, did you use a BMW-specific scanner or another device?
Also, I just found your BMW N52 Valve Cover & Valvetronic Motor Gasket Replacement *COMPLETE GUIDE* (ua-cam.com/video/rRK-lLR7YqI/v-deo.html). Thanks!
Hi, does this job require any programming after installation of the eccentric shaft sensor?
Probably won't hurt to reset all your adaptation.
Hello Buddy👊🏼 After removing the valvetronic motor, you always need to calibrate it?
Should have just LS swapped it. it will run wayyyy better lol!! Your tire bill will be massive though and mpg will be reset to smiles per gallon ! 😜
How does it work ,what does it do. Why does it effect the oil path .
Hi, I've noticed in inpa that Vvt-extcenter Istwert is reading a full bar and !1440.01 at idle. I sometimes get a bad cold start and pulling away up the hill I'll go into limp. Restart the car and it might be ok. Should I be investigating this part? Cheers for great vids George
Hi George. I have a new valve cover kit to fit on my 130i. The car is on 128k miles and runs well with none of the issues you mention in this video but would you advise replacing the eccentric shaft sensor anyway while the cover is off? I'd rather not given the expense of the sensor. Also you mentioned resetting the valvetronic motor parameters after reassembly. Is this essential? I don't have ISTA but have access to a BMW specific iCarsoft unit. Thanks in advance!
Yes I’d recommend replacing the sensor at the same time! I believe you can reset the valvetronic motor values with the use of the pedals👍🏻
Thanks George!
Great video. I’d be interested in how to relearn the valve limit positions.
I cannot find how to do it anywhere 😫
Although I haven't had any problems, yet after changing the rocker gasket.
Before you fixed this, was the car cranking but not starting? I have a P1019 code and I’m seeing information about replacing this sensor but I’m unsure
No car ran
Thanks for the video! How do I go about re learning the valvetronic motor end points? Do I need a scan tool?
Hey I have the same question as you. What did you do?
I ended up buying an Autel scan tool to do the relearn. BUT I’ve been told the relearn can be performed by turning ignition on (without starting engine) for 10 seconds and back off again two or three times.
My son's bmw E60 2007 has a problem not even the BMW workshop can fix.
At low speeds, when driving over speed bumps, the engine loses all power for a few seconds and then runs as usual.
I have basically replaced all the sensors that are available and replaced the spark plugs, and disconnected the anti-spin system.
Nothing helps.
My error code reader says that there are no errors.
What can we do?
Do you have any suggestions?
The car is only driven during the summer and has only been running 13.0000kn / 81,000 miles.
Best regards from SWEDEN.
check for loose connectors. or battery isnt connected properly
Wheel speed sensor or your abs ring if your getting a 4x4 warning and it limits power
What was the error code? Is it CF17: Lost communication with Gateway?
Eccentric shaft sensor related
Been waiting for this one for a while, thanks mate
You’re welcome
What are the symptoms of a bad eccentric shaft sensor? I think mine may be going out also. At cold start up mine bounces the idle up and down and sometimes even dies.
My car is having the exact problem I replaced the sensor I got my acceleration back when I replaced it but the issue still consist so I’ll be replace the harness that goes to the sensor since oil was getting to it hopefully that fixes the issue
@@gregopahl4903 Make sure you reset adaptations also.
a 130i and a 760i are quite a collection
Yep 2 very rare cars👌🏼
How long does this job take please?
Even though you explained, I was nervous about the bolts dropping into the motor pheww.
I know haha!
Hi george what do you call the plug that plugs into the ecentric shaft sensor . Mine can turn while still in place. I havnt been able to remove it yet . Still being gentle. Thanks jamie newzealand.
Sorry george ?. Is it ment to turn around . ??
How did using the Continental brand eccentric shaft sensor work out for you? I was thinking of replacing mine with an OEM eccentric shaft sensor but would rather go with a cheaper option if it wokrs just as well!
Continental is OEM👍🏻
HI, after the valve cover gasket and the Eccentric Shaft Sensor replaced due to oil in it, on BMW 325i E90 RW SDM 4 DOOR after driving for 54 K, the engine Light came on and the engine over Heated, what can be the problem? if you can help. Thanks. keep up with the good work, I enjoy watching your videos.
Any tips on getting a new eccentric seal in? 30/32mm socket and hammer it in? cheers for all your vids
Should just push in if it’s clean
@@GeorgeAusters cheers! turns out there was a whole outer bit of the old seal still in there, looked like it was part of the cover... many hours wasted haha
Hi,could I pay you to do my e89 sensor?
Awesome man thanks a lot
No problem 👍
.
Great video. Thank you!
Did you have any codes before replacement?
Yes as explained in the video👍🏻
Does this work the same for N51
Yes
Great job, George
Cheers Jack!
Nice one George!
Thanks ☝🏽 good content as always
Appreciate that
Wow great video George, looks like quite an involved job, not for the faint hearted! I guess it took nearly double the time to film while you do the job too, nice one.
Yep! 😅
How do you clean the inside?
Is this a diesel.
Thats ok mileage.
No its petrol. They dont put a 6 cylinder 3l diesel into a 1 series
Top job 👌
Cheers Steven!
Well done, as per usual :)
THANK YOU AMASING JOB
Is it normal for the idle to run rough afterwards
Yes. Needs to relearn and figure out the signal.
@@mr2_mikeokay mines been running rough for about 5 months now😅 what could I have done wrong
@@cliffjames130Download or find someone with diagnostic software INPA or Rhinegold. See what codes, if anything is stored.
Then you should reset all adaptations with that same software.
Afterwards, you usually get some engine lights, reset those with software. Turn off and on car. Reset again. Go for easy drive. Rest of codes should clear.
Vanos is set to the old adaptations.
The new "alynumien" bolts haha he means aluminum
Haha no I mean Aluminium as I said👍🏻
@@GeorgeAusters oh you must be British lol
Good lord, I know that little bastard made my car hesitate each time i gassed it, BMW advised that I replace it with the original part and it's damn expensive
German Engineering is trash all the Hype is BS.