Just in time on this one. I'm in the NE and salt has eaten my whole rear subframe. I'm replacing EVERYTHING, subframe, all control arms, sway bar, AND trailing arms. This was the final piece of the puzzle. Thanks man!
No problem I had to do the exact thing, straight from the factory these subframes were weak when it came to rust, I needed to get a new one from eBay and surprisingly it was a plug-and-play kind of deal, everything lined up
@@randomtallguyvlogs6756 bruh even the metal ring that holds in the speed sensor on the rear wheel bearings was rusted. Literally fell off in my hand. Shop wanted $5000 for repair. With videos like yours I spent roughly $800 and got it all done tonight. Even aligned the wheels. So I can’t thank you enough. 🙏🏾 😇
@@randomtallguyvlogs6756maybe you could've shown the driver's side where the inside bolt and nut for the upper control arm are blocked by that black plastic and rubber canister? I can't even find a good angle to get a socket on that canister's bolt to the subframe. Any tips would be helpful
We had both done with ball joint assembly per out paperwork, the Jeep then began veering badly to the left or right upon excelling the gas. Now they said it was the motor mounts?
Hey quick question I have a different car but I had to switch the lower controller arm is been lose and making my car shake i did tighten it again but is lose again is it cause i didn’t use the torque wrench? anyways i definitely missed that but love the vid!
My 2010 jeep patriot 4x4 sags real bad in back no ride highth at all the only thing I haven't done yet is rear sub frame I just want the ride highth back and stop every 6 months on 4 wheel alignment.
Think that was the clearest, most precise how to for this car ive seen! thanks
Just in time on this one. I'm in the NE and salt has eaten my whole rear subframe. I'm replacing EVERYTHING, subframe, all control arms, sway bar, AND trailing arms. This was the final piece of the puzzle. Thanks man!
No problem I had to do the exact thing, straight from the factory these subframes were weak when it came to rust, I needed to get a new one from eBay and surprisingly it was a plug-and-play kind of deal, everything lined up
@@randomtallguyvlogs6756 bruh even the metal ring that holds in the speed sensor on the rear wheel bearings was rusted. Literally fell off in my hand. Shop wanted $5000 for repair. With videos like yours I spent roughly $800 and got it all done tonight. Even aligned the wheels. So I can’t thank you enough. 🙏🏾 😇
Wish I saw this 6 months ago. That's a "recall". If the frame rots they will replace it under the 10 year extended frame warranty.
@@randomtallguyvlogs6756maybe you could've shown the driver's side where the inside bolt and nut for the upper control arm are blocked by that black plastic and rubber canister? I can't even find a good angle to get a socket on that canister's bolt to the subframe. Any tips would be helpful
The hole is on the controls arm on the inside because they make an adjustable camber kit which utilizes the hole and mounts to the subframe.
We had both done with ball joint assembly per out paperwork, the Jeep then began veering badly to the left or right upon excelling the gas. Now they said it was the motor mounts?
what was the reason of replacement the control arms?
Bushings wear out
Hey quick question I have a different car but I had to switch the lower controller arm is been lose and making my car shake i did tighten it again but is lose again is it cause i didn’t use the torque wrench? anyways i definitely missed that but love the vid!
How much should I expect to pay the garage to do this job
Will doing this make my toe go back in at the bottom?
My 2010 jeep patriot 4x4 sags real bad in back no ride highth at all the only thing I haven't done yet is rear sub frame I just want the ride highth back and stop every 6 months on 4 wheel alignment.
Check Jeep first. Those sub frames are on a recall for salt areas. 10 year extended on the frame.
“snuggled up” the bolt lol
The brake lines are not plastic 😂