Orifice size. He talks about it in another video called “Stove Construction pt3”. The size is .016”. That’s a micro drill size and seems like a delicate task. Look on Amazon. Good luck 🍀
Bro I dig ya. Your kinda the man. I find your approaches and explanations very relaxed and easy to follow. For now just two questions for you man. 1) true the blow torch's are commonly found but I don't know about the one you use for the bigger rebuild. What kind is it cause sure as shit isn't your typical Home Depot bernzomatic.
I started customizing mine last night and whatever i made got way way to hot and whistled like a whistling pete and the flame is invisble up to 50% . Above 50% power its still hard to see. But in 3 seconds the burner was already too hot to touch and smoking. 30 secongs the stainless tip that is almost 1/4 thick walls was glowing red. After using it for a couple minutes it was getting unsafely hot and started welding the brass fittings to eachother.
nice build , also remove the sintered bronze slug to increase flow even more , its inside the insert the sticks down into the tank when you screw it together
I'm only 7 mins in and i dont know if i can take anymore of the pausing on one step and just being in awe of the results like it's the second coming of Christ.
Yeah it goes okay but I'm just wondering how long it's gonna take for the tube to heat up and expand just enough for that sink strainer to pop out and and randomly burn the shit out of something like maybe your pants and leg, bounce into your shoe or the nice floor in the kitchen or bathroom maybe even at somebody else's house 😂
clkindred, I am very impressed w/your work....thorough and ingenuitive. Just one question on the above "build along"....unless I missed it, I didn't notice you state what size hole you drilled for your orifice in your jet. If I just wasn't listening I apologize, but otherwise I am very interested in attempting to replicate your creation. Thanks in advance. Jon PS...this is my son's youtube account...hence the nom de plume.
clkindred I agree with Dill Pickle, your videos are really well done. My only complaint is that you do not do a materials list in the about section. Where you got it would be great, too. I'm about 3/4 through a coffee can forge build & am now working on this & a list of brass fittings would be scrumtrulesent. Thanks for vids!
I've been neding to make this torch for my forge for a while. So I got all the parts needed to do it just like you did. But when I disassembled the old torch assembly, mine was different in that 1) the orifice is not removable and 2) the end of the angled piece does not fit in the elbow as yours did. I ended up brazing the elbow in to the old valve body and making a couple of other adjustments. But it was a learning experience.
+daisy8luke THIS is what I'm talking about! You get an idea and you make it work despite setbacks. I almost did not post this video because I could imagine all the people wanting it laid out like a lego kit. I'm not hating on those people, but these videos are to show ideas and getting creative juices flowing.
clkindred Right. Rarely does anything work that smoothly just because you saw someone else do it. But the end result will be just as good or better if you just spread your wings and fly your own way. Still, your video was very helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction. I've since then ditched the strainer and mesh in the end of the stainless tub and just blow hot flame right in to my forge like a boss! So far, so good!!
Your videos rock! I was scared of trying to make one for a foundry I'm making.. but I think I'll try it now since I've seen these! Thanks! I'm trying to use one of those grill propane tanks for my foundry. You should make a video if you ever get to it someday!
Excellent video but I have one question when you press the screen and strainer into the tube how do you keep it secure in place without it coming back out or going down in further?
Hey CLKINDRED, I just wanted to tell you that this DIY was really good and detailed. I noticed that a lot of people had some of the same questions that I did when I finally got around to gathering the parts to built your torch. I like others was looking for all the parts and couldn't find the apple corer and the face bushing. So heres what I did and maybe it will help others. As for the apple corer, it has been discontinued from walmart so I looked in virtually every other store but couldn't find it. After racking my brain I measured my wifes, which looked identical to yours but was a Pampered Chef and she threatened to kill me if I took it...lol, and it measured 7/8" ID. I was walking through Lowes and happened to look over and see some small outdoor solar lamps for walkways. After buying it for $7.00, I took it home, popped off the lamp and the ground spike and found it to be perfect match. The tube is just a little longer which I used a pipe cutter to get it the lenthg I wanted. As for the face bushing, I bought a Brass Pipe Reducer Coupling 1/2" FIP x 3/8" FIP, put it into my lathe and milled the 1/2" side down to a perfect 7/8". Its snug but just to keep it from falling out, after assembling the inside components, I slid it into the tube and used a micrometer to get the perfect depth, then drilled and tapped a hole to place a small stainless steel screw. It all fits together perfect and keeps the combustion holes from sliding into the tube and the insides from sliding out of the tube. BTW, I found that a 3/8" x 3" long brass pipe was the perfect length. To all, I'm sorry for the length but I hope it helps everyone who is building this cool torch. Thanks again.
+Jeff Allen Hey Jeff, I drilled a .016 hole in the plug. I'm not gonna lie, it was a pain in the butt. First off the bit was so small that I had bent about 3. how it worked for me was I put the bit all the way up in the chuck only letting an eigth exposed. Secondly, I didnt use oil on the final and successful one. The first hole I drilled in the first plug was .0625. But I found that it came out to be a very nice tiki torch flame but not good for foundry use. The smaller the hole, the more of a focused diamond flame tip... which is what you need and want. I hope this helps
Thanks you my friend. I am just getting the parts together to build one of these. I need a laminar torch for some scientific glass blowing and then casting aluminum. Thank you.
Actually, anyone thinking of doing this project, don't if you are just looking some headaches. You will waste your money. None of the torches that are made these days have removable orifices. The Bernzomatic torches are also just too big. They must have made these proprietary. Just to in some way find the old ones and not lose 50 bucks in parts and car gas I will special order an old one if it can be found but it should be stated somewhere here that this has to be done (in an edited video) . In the end, you don't save THAT much money. You can find 500,000 btu weed killer for $40
spiralof5 try pawn shops when looking for an older valve assembly. I've gotten a few from a local pawn shop by me. got lucky enough to find the old ones with the brass knob instead of black plastic.
Without having to mess around with looking for an apple corer what is the interior diameter of that tubing so I can just go find that dimension from a metal supplier.
Also... Couldn't I just resize the orifice hole to a bigger size on the original plumbing? Or would that plumbing size not suffice to that modification?
I think it might have something to do with the fact that the mesh is slightly obstructing gas flow and allowing a more thorough combustion as opposed to rushing through un-combusted. OR maybe when the mesh heats up it facilitates the combustion reaction more efficiently.
This is incredible I wish youtube had much more of this type of thing. It amazed me how complex a butane/propane torch flame is compared to a simple yellow flame.
+ProfMarijawizard They'd have to cost around $100 each if you actually tried building one yourself. It cost me $50 for all brass parts not including the stainless steel burner which I used a small butane refill tank for (you can also use narrow air freshener cans but they might need to be cut, reformed and tack welded). Then the labor... you gotta drill the air holes, drill the orfice which is the hardest part. Notice he doesn't show that part in either of his 2 vids cause working with a #78 bit is a nightmare. Using a drill press could take 2-3 hours just to drill a .016 hole that deep. I broke tons of bits then figured out if you "grindweld" a .025MIG head by cutting it in half and grinding it down a bit... the very tip melts together at low heat as it grinds. So the hole closes but the top metal get's softer (it's more a pressure weld then a heat weld). Still, I had to use a #74 bit just to get through that bit of metal. #75 and up all bent too much with a regular hand drill. Just by breathing in and out the bits were snapping off. Oh, then there's the air mixer and cone shaper. I couldn't find the strainer he used so I had to cut that from the bottom of a coffee can, grind it down then cut the holes. Took about 1 hour just to do that with my dremel. My point is, even if he worked in a machinist shop the least he could charge is $80-$100 each. But if there was high demand... like if there were 100 people lined up to buy these then modifications could be made as all people really want is that cool chrome looking burner. So I'll tell you what, if your comment gets 97 more upvotes which it won't I'll sell them myself. ;-)
you dont have to fight with that tiny drill bit ! use the original orifice and use a tip drill for an oxyacetylene torch to make it ever so slightly bigger
i honestly believe that the size of the orifice is just fine as it is . it is the stainless steel tube with the screen and drain strainer . That is what makes this burner work the way it does. In tig welding it is called a gas lens . I am certain that orifice is big enough as it is if it isnt . 1 tiny tip drill at a time " it would only take a second to go as big as you want"
Hi clkindred, Nice tutorial. Could you Upsize this torch even further? Also you maybe interested to learn that you can now get a braided hose with a LPG BBQ cylinder fitting on one end and a male fitting to suit those torches which use the disposable propane cylinders and they retail here in Melbourne for @ A$50. The hose is 1500 mm long or 5' for you imperial types. Bromic is the brand and it is to suit Bernzomatic propane suitable torches
+Mark Fryer I think you could make it bigger, just make the burner and tune the orifice size to match, I don't know if the relationship between burner diameter, length and orifice size is linear. I use just such a product to run the burner on a BBQ tank.
now i can understand some basical princyples: The end(start really) of little ejector tube has a jet(wondering about regulated one, like diaphragm of photo camera) in the tube of an ejector of small diameter, say with a tunnel of 5mm diameter, which I call the starting diameter of the channel With two or 3,4,6,8 lateral holes ,. Which I call the "nostrils", they should have a shutter for closing, a section of a tube of larger diameter, with a longitudinal cut, like a spring hugging and closing nostrils, if you push it like a curtain over the windows, partially or completely, it's important because I refill the can sometimes Diethyl ether (medical), which can work as a gas after heating the balloon with hot water from a water pipe, or isopropyl alcohol or petroleum ether (which require an electric hot plate> 100С
Hi, thanks for sharing this video. You mentioned a brass fitting called a "face bushing" but didn't say what size it was. I know the inside should be 3/8 npt but what about the outside threading?
thanks for sending me this link!!!! It's exactly what I am looking for the upgrade my forge!!!! I'll send you a pic and/or video of the finished product. thanks Again!!!!
your first torch(little both) gave flame needle(long on the axis), and big one torch(you work) giving wide="short", cone without focuss point, so it will not melt piece of iron(little iron paper clip - enough for test temperature maximum, and it is possible record, at least you will get like а hair follicle ball on the end, afted 5-10min of searching right hot point of flame(iron must be like airplane in flow, along on the axis, and also some time you can find area on the fringe("hat" edge flame cone), to gen needle you need to take away drain strainer part(last grid with 7 big hols) and put inside flange_nut(look at wiki pedia), wide side must lay on your 15/16 grid, and you will see hexagon, and little(1-2mm wide) сircular slot along the edges, My mesh is a little wide, and I wrapped the protruding edges toward me, pressing the mesh inside this nut like a piston, pressing on the hexagon
CLKindred: It appears that the outgoing thread on the BernzOMatic torch is not a pipe thread. There is no way that the LFA-712 ( 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP street El can be used on the valve body, (unless I'm missing something here!).
I recently tried your suggestions with a older Bernzomatic torch. There was an issue with matching up the threading of the torch and the brass fittings you specified. Do you know the thread type on the Bernzomatic. Also, the orifice was was not removable, but built into the bent tube, on the end.
+BlackHeliCrowd If the torch is designed differently than the ones I use, then I don't know what thread type it has. Was it close to fitting? Or was is completely different?
Visualy the torch type looks exactly the same as the one you used. Did you use the Bernzomatic brand? The 1/8" MIP is sloppy when first screwed into the torch body, but seems to kind of tighten up at the very end. The bent torch piece is definitely too big for the 1/8" FIP.
BlackHeliCrowd I bought parts at Home Depot. The 1/8" plug looks exactly like the one in the video. However, it is not the same. The H-D version, at the top of the threads has a very thin washer like obstruction cast into it. It looks the same, but without modification its not gonna thread.
I live in Dk and its going to be impossible for me to get my hands on all these :( I know what you are thinking, Offcourse you can find everything if you try. But you got to live here to understand what I mean.... But we have the Internet thou. Thank you for a lovely Video
Nice video ! Quick suggestion-- use a fine pipe screen from a local tobacco shop. This will add a little more pressure and enhance the flame...........
I wanted to thank you for the information on this upgrade and I wanted to share the version I did. Same setup just used a Harbor Freight hand torch to control the flame and a better way to hold it. If You get a chance take a look and see the mods I did because of lack of parts ua-cam.com/video/v84ggDx3TMU/v-deo.html
Nice job on this burner design and will be the perfect size for the forge I'm planning to build ( heat treating for knife making). Trying to procure a container size BETWEEN your No.10 and trashcan size. Burner is almost complete. I used a 3/8-4" brass nipple with 1/2"x 3/8 hex bushing tapped thru and shortened on the end. then trimmed the points off the hex for press fit. This setup brought the end of the inner pipe about 1" from the end of the SS tube for the aerator/strainer to be pressed against. The only issue I'm having is the plug. I have the one in the video "Watts 1/8 LFA 710" but has tapered threads. Did you end up going with a DIFFERENT part? Again Great Job!
Golden Mask I went back trough my videos and found where I showed that part number, and that is exactly the part I used. I should not have eluded to that plug not having a taper, it dose, but the other kinds of plugs there is a ridge or hex flats that make threading the plug in upside down impossible.
Oop, looks like it’s actually 0.016”, aka a #78 wire bit. Definitely a specialty item, and you may need an extra-fine drill chuck (like a Jacobs #0) to use it.
just attempted this build and it was an utter failure LOL. I could not for the life of me, get the 1/8' NPT square plug to thread into the 1/8" to 1/4" NPT bushing. I tapped it all the way through and it still wouldn't go......:-(
+TheLagwagon6040 I suppose I could post an update video with different construction methods, the plug was how I do it now, but it was more because it made research easier being kind of modular.
In an earlier project I made a propane camp stove and through a few months of experimenting found that the orifice needed to be as small as I could make it, any bigger than .016" is too big for a burner this size. .016 was the smallest drill bit I could get. This also means the burner can't be any smaller than this, because that would require a smaller orifice. The orifice size, burner tube diameter, burner tube length, primary combustion air holes, and burner head are all locked in a system that needs to be in balance. If one thing is changed, there must be changes made to the other elements as well.
clkindred Thanks for the quick response. It is the engineering calculations of the balanced system that I was that I was trying to find. Can you point me to a source that has the formulae or at least discusses the relationships of the various parameters?
There is no such information I could find myself, that is why the camp stove took so long to make. I found page after page of information on burners that have already been designed, but nothing on how to design your own. Detailes like orifice size and such were not published because they assume a technitian is just trying to troubleshoot the burner, not make changes or make one.
+elven b You may already know this, but there is such a thing as a "gas orifice drill chart." If you know your BTU output, you can look up the orifice size for propane or natural gas. You can also use this to convert appliances from propane to natural gas and vice-verse. A 0.016" orifice is a number 78 drill bit. That would be around 1800 BTU's. www.johnstone-westmichigan.com/techcenter/orficetable.pdf
CLKindred: The orifice's on the new BernzOmatic torches appear not to be removable? The nose of the orifice is cone shaped which renders the brass tube un-usable? Any suggestions? I have 3: 2 are over 2 years old and they are ll the same. Ed..
I don't want to annoy you but you and I could be a crazy good team I'm a critical thinker and marketer and have a lot of money backing me and a big team. This is my dream, I'll do all the hard part let's create together 50/50 everything I'll do what ever I can to make us successful I promise hear me out.. millions/ billions no joke.
Thank you so much the mystery was solved. Even though the reducer hole measures the 3/8 it takes the 1/8 pipe threading tap with a 27 TPI. The funniest thing is I went to Home Depot for a 1/8 square stopper ( with no shoulder) n it didn't fit after tapping it out, then I went to a plumbing supply store n bought another 1/8 square stopper n it fit perfectly. The only other question I have is the orifice u said a .016 hole, I have a 1/64 bit which is .01562 so do you mean get a 1/64 bit?
I just got a blowtorch. but instead of a 7/32 nut with a tiny hole it looked as if the manufaturer just milled a piece of brass into a bent pipe. Its all one piece. Ideas? there is not much thread otherwise I would just drill it out. What brand do you use?
Are you talking about the factory orifice? I don't reuse that piece so it should not matter how they made that particular part. Now if you are talking about the bent brass tube being a solid part with the blowtorch valve, then that might be a problem. I use "Worthington" torches. But the other popular brand "Berzomatic or whatever" has the same construction.
clkindred Kind of. Instead of that small bolt you show, the tube and orifice are all one piece. I have not tried to separate them out yet since I was jammed up at taking the orifice out. However, I found that my local Home Depot has some older style Burnzomatic ones that DO have the tiny orifice nut. I can clearly see it. Thanks a bunch.
This thing is, awesome. gives me ideas for a wok burner. if you have any ideas for a good wok burner let me know. ( I REALLY like the door knob burner)
haggard184 Most wok burners I have seen use multiple small burners (like 20 small blowtorch sized burners) or a large "banjo" style burner. I think three or four door knob burners plumbed together would be a good middle ground between the two designs.
Sir, the logic you demonstrate throughout all of your videos is very impressive and commendable. QUESTION: How do you arrive at the most efficiently burning design with respect to the "DIFFUSOR" (sink parts)? Is there a "golden ratio" that exists that I'm not aware of? My ignorance prevents me from understanding what exactly is achieved by diffusing the flame WITHIN THE TUBE before it exits the end. (If my my question has already been addressed, please forgive me for not having the time to read all of the comments.)
+TexasLONGRIFLE First I'll go over what the sink parts do. The drain strainer with the large holes in it, makes the "flame anchor" when placed into the fuel/air stream it creates low pressure zone just past it. Think of water in a river flowing around a bridge support, as the water goes around and past the support it creates eddy currents on the downstream side. This is needed to anchor the flame or it will be pushed outside the burner and blow itself out. The screen is just to prevent the flame from flashing back towards the orifice at low gas pressure, it's kind of complicated how a screen blocks passage of a flame, but it has a lot to do with sucking the heat out of the flame. As for a golden ratio, I'm not sure. For the flame anchor to work it seems to need about a 20-30% ratio of web (stuff in between the holes) to 80-70% holes. As far as the size of the holes, they all seem to work, but I noticed the larger the holes, the louder the burner.
wow ! Well made and done ! How can I get a much longer flame thrown from a standard gas cylinder blow torch ?? I would have to modify the nozzles etc 🤔
clkindred, I have un into a problem with my torch. I did the modafication torch that hooh-up to a 20lb propane cyl. I can't seem to get it to burn correctly. I drilled the 3/16 air holes and driller a 1/16 hole for my orifice. What size did you drill your orifice in the plug? I plan to build a small forge ti smelt silver and such.
If I were going to build a number 10 can forge like one of your other videos would I need to do this? Or could I just make the hole in the forge smaller and use a standard torch fitting?
A standard torch could only heat a smaller forge, this burner is just the right size for this size forge. And it's barely enough for the trashcan forge I made.
clkindred One more quick question - and I'm sorry to bother you again. Will the number 10 can forget get hot enough to heat treat steel? I am hoping to start knife making and want to be sure that this will work before I start building it. Thanks.
Yes, but the closed back design is not the best for that. You can't get the blade hot along its whole length, only the tip gets hot, if kept in the forge long enough for the heat to work it's way back, the tip will be too hot and will have problems with being brittle. Also I recommend the refractory recipe in my trashcan forge video, the only other ingredient is aluminum oxide sandblasting grit. The added heat resistance is well worth it.
Muy buen quemador. Soy de España y no entiendo muy bien el inglés, ¿serías tan amable de hacerme llegar la lista de materiales para hacer el quemador? Muchisimas gracias por tu tiempo y por la información, a mi me es muy útil.
Orifice size. He talks about it in another video called “Stove Construction pt3”. The size is .016”. That’s a micro drill size and seems like a delicate task. Look on Amazon.
Good luck 🍀
This is brilliant!
Too bad you're not making videos no more.
Hope everything is fine!
I've seen a lot of these projects on UA-cam this is the very best video I've seen thank you for making this video
How big did you drill the orifice into the 1/8th plug?
Awesome videos man. You explain everything really clearly.
Thanks for this. You explain each piece with detail.
The most important pease was left out !!!
If u do ever thing he did but not drill that hole no propane will come out !!!!
Bro I dig ya. Your kinda the man. I find your approaches and explanations very relaxed and easy to follow. For now just two questions for you man. 1) true the blow torch's are commonly found but I don't know about the one you use for the bigger rebuild. What kind is it cause sure as shit isn't your typical Home Depot bernzomatic.
It's a Lowe's Worthington torch, although the basic one from home depot will probably work too, as long as the valve is threaded the same way.
I started customizing mine last night and whatever i made got way way to hot and whistled like a whistling pete and the flame is invisble up to 50% . Above 50% power its still hard to see.
But in 3 seconds the burner was already too hot to touch and smoking. 30 secongs the stainless tip that is almost 1/4 thick walls was glowing red.
After using it for a couple minutes it was getting unsafely hot and started welding the brass fittings to eachother.
nice build , also remove the sintered bronze slug to increase flow even more , its inside the insert the sticks down into the tank when you screw it together
I'm only 7 mins in and i dont know if i can take anymore of the pausing on one step and just being in awe of the results like it's the second coming of Christ.
great video, very well explained.
+Rusty Panels Thank you!
+clkindred I like the video could you send parts list to my email
Now I want this for my mini forge.
Only question is what size is the hole did he drill in the plug
Fantastic presentation! I know first hand how much work this must have been. BRAVO!!
What's the purpose of the mesh
Really well done. Excellent communication. And a good tool build. BUT I missed the orifice sizing. What size drill?
Excellent design. Thank you.
Thanks!
Yeah it goes okay but I'm just wondering how long it's gonna take for the tube to heat up and expand just enough for that sink strainer to pop out and and randomly burn the shit out of something like maybe your pants and leg, bounce into your shoe or the nice floor in the kitchen or bathroom maybe even at somebody else's house 😂
clkindred, I am very impressed w/your work....thorough and ingenuitive. Just one question on the above "build along"....unless I missed it, I didn't notice you state what size hole you drilled for your orifice in your jet. If I just wasn't listening I apologize, but otherwise I am very interested in attempting to replicate your creation. Thanks in advance.
Jon
PS...this is my son's youtube account...hence the nom de plume.
Nope, you did not miss it I just forgot to put that in. The hole is 0.016" thanks for the comment!
clkindred I agree with Dill Pickle, your videos are really well done. My only complaint is that you do not do a materials list in the about section. Where you got it would be great, too. I'm about 3/4 through a coffee can forge build & am now working on this & a list of brass fittings would be scrumtrulesent. Thanks for vids!
I've been neding to make this torch for my forge for a while. So I got all the parts needed to do it just like you did. But when I disassembled the old torch assembly, mine was different in that 1) the orifice is not removable and 2) the end of the angled piece does not fit in the elbow as yours did. I ended up brazing the elbow in to the old valve body and making a couple of other adjustments. But it was a learning experience.
+daisy8luke THIS is what I'm talking about! You get an idea and you make it work despite setbacks. I almost did not post this video because I could imagine all the people wanting it laid out like a lego kit. I'm not hating on those people, but these videos are to show ideas and getting creative juices flowing.
clkindred Right. Rarely does anything work that smoothly just because you saw someone else do it. But the end result will be just as good or better if you just spread your wings and fly your own way. Still, your video was very helpful in getting me pointed in the right direction. I've since then ditched the strainer and mesh in the end of the stainless tub and just blow hot flame right in to my forge like a boss! So far, so good!!
Your videos rock! I was scared of trying to make one for a foundry I'm making.. but I think I'll try it now since I've seen these! Thanks! I'm trying to use one of those grill propane tanks for my foundry. You should make a video if you ever get to it someday!
Powertripp Productions Thank you! Seems there is interest in a burner design video, because you are not the only one to ask.
Excellent video but I have one question when you press the screen and strainer into the tube how do you keep it secure in place without it coming back out or going down in further?
Hey CLKINDRED, I just wanted to tell you that this DIY was really good and detailed. I noticed that a lot of people had some of the same questions that I did when I finally got around to gathering the parts to built your torch. I like others was looking for all the parts and couldn't find the apple corer and the face bushing. So heres what I did and maybe it will help others. As for the apple corer, it has been discontinued from walmart so I looked in virtually every other store but couldn't find it. After racking my brain I measured my wifes, which looked identical to yours but was a Pampered Chef and she threatened to kill me if I took it...lol, and it measured 7/8" ID. I was walking through Lowes and happened to look over and see some small outdoor solar lamps for walkways. After buying it for $7.00, I took it home, popped off the lamp and the ground spike and found it to be perfect match. The tube is just a little longer which I used a pipe cutter to get it the lenthg I wanted. As for the face bushing, I bought a Brass Pipe Reducer Coupling 1/2" FIP x 3/8" FIP, put it into my lathe and milled the 1/2" side down to a perfect 7/8". Its snug but just to keep it from falling out, after assembling the inside components, I slid it into the tube and used a micrometer to get the perfect depth, then drilled and tapped a hole to place a small stainless steel screw. It all fits together perfect and keeps the combustion holes from sliding into the tube and the insides from sliding out of the tube. BTW, I found that a 3/8" x 3" long brass pipe was the perfect length. To all, I'm sorry for the length but I hope it helps everyone who is building this cool torch. Thanks again.
+Jeff Allen
Hey Jeff, I drilled a .016 hole in the plug. I'm not gonna lie, it was a pain in the butt. First off the bit was so small that I had bent about 3. how it worked for me was I put the bit all the way up in the chuck only letting an eigth exposed. Secondly, I didnt use oil on the final and successful one. The first hole I drilled in the first plug was .0625. But I found that it came out to be a very nice tiki torch flame but not good for foundry use. The smaller the hole, the more of a focused diamond flame tip... which is what you need and want. I hope this helps
I was thinking along the same lines.. someone with a small mill and a forge could make up his own parts and build one of these for next to nothing.
Jeff Allen a might welder tip works to
Thanks you my friend. I am just getting the parts together to build one of these. I need a laminar torch for some scientific glass blowing and then casting aluminum. Thank you.
Sir, you ARE a genius. Thank you for sharing.
Seriously I think he is a genius on some type of level. The way he speaks and his tone of voice mixed with his extensive knowledge.
His voice, when he speaks l keep seein Anthony Perkins (Norman Bates) in my mind
But yes he's put together a great powerful blowtorch here.
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Insanely awesome
Actually, anyone thinking of doing this project, don't if you are just looking some headaches. You will waste your money.
None of the torches that are made these days have removable orifices. The Bernzomatic torches are also just too big. They must have made these proprietary. Just to in some way find the old ones and not lose 50 bucks in parts and car gas I will special order an old one if it can be found but it should be stated somewhere here that this has to be done (in an edited video) .
In the end, you don't save THAT much money. You can find 500,000 btu weed killer for $40
spiralof5 try pawn shops when looking for an older valve assembly. I've gotten a few from a local pawn shop by me. got lucky enough to find the old ones with the brass knob instead of black plastic.
Without having to mess around with looking for an apple corer what is the interior diameter of that tubing so I can just go find that dimension from a metal supplier.
You don't have to look too hard. It's a Walmart item.
all those things you bought, with the same amount of money you could get a butane torch weedwacker for 20 bucks that produces the same flame
If you had inserted some fabric or foil between your items and the jaws, there would be no more dents on the elbow and valve.
Also... Couldn't I just resize the orifice hole to a bigger size on the original plumbing? Or would that plumbing size not suffice to that modification?
Powertripp Productions You could do that as well, not a bad idea really.
Can this burner be used if your propane source is a 20lb tank and an appliance hose?
Well done.
The only thing that puzzles me is the gauze, just how does it improve gas flow / heat output?
I think it might have something to do with the fact that the mesh is slightly obstructing gas flow and allowing a more thorough combustion as opposed to rushing through un-combusted. OR maybe when the mesh heats up it facilitates the combustion reaction more efficiently.
This is incredible I wish youtube had much more of this type of thing. It amazed me how complex a butane/propane torch flame is compared to a simple yellow flame.
+Largemouth Bass (esp) Yep, gas burners are very complicated. Thanks for the comment!
Can anyone tell me why the 1/8" jet can't be positioned further in or further out? Why tap right through?
Nice build, is this new improved torch the one I'd need to use in your furnace? Would be using to smelt gold and silver.
Yes, this is the burner I use in my trashcan forge.
Just for future reference you don't need teflon tape or anything to seal the threads on brass it seals itself because it is soft enough.
Hello. Any idea how swirl flame might be done in your made? Thx in advance!
a .023 mig tip works perfect
If you sell these I'll buy 2
+ProfMarijawizard They'd have to cost around $100 each if you actually tried building one yourself. It cost me $50 for all brass parts not including the stainless steel burner which I used a small butane refill tank for (you can also use narrow air freshener cans but they might need to be cut, reformed and tack welded). Then the labor... you gotta drill the air holes, drill the orfice which is the hardest part. Notice he doesn't show that part in either of his 2 vids cause working with a #78 bit is a nightmare. Using a drill press could take 2-3 hours just to drill a .016 hole that deep. I broke tons of bits then figured out if you "grindweld" a .025MIG head by cutting it in half and grinding it down a bit... the very tip melts together at low heat as it grinds. So the hole closes but the top metal get's softer (it's more a pressure weld then a heat weld). Still, I had to use a #74 bit just to get through that bit of metal. #75 and up all bent too much with a regular hand drill. Just by breathing in and out the bits were snapping off.
Oh, then there's the air mixer and cone shaper. I couldn't find the strainer he used so I had to cut that from the bottom of a coffee can, grind it down then cut the holes. Took about 1 hour just to do that with my dremel.
My point is, even if he worked in a machinist shop the least he could charge is $80-$100 each. But if there was high demand... like if there were 100 people lined up to buy these then modifications could be made as all people really want is that cool chrome looking burner. So I'll tell you what, if your comment gets 97 more upvotes which it won't I'll sell them myself. ;-)
+Robert Cece You could just sell me yours!! I'd pay about $200 plus shipping?
you dont have to fight with that tiny drill bit ! use the original orifice and use a tip drill for an oxyacetylene torch to make it ever so slightly bigger
i honestly believe that the size of the orifice is just fine as it is . it is the stainless steel tube with the screen and drain strainer . That is what makes this burner work the way it does. In tig welding it is called a gas lens . I am certain that orifice is big enough as it is if it isnt . 1 tiny tip drill at a time " it would only take a second to go as big as you want"
what is the drill size used for the plug?
the apple corer is out of production through Walmart fyi
Something very similar (1.75" X 6.25" SS tube) seems to be available on Amazon as Fox Run Apple Corer for $7.99.
I've got an interesting question for you can this type of torch be used for lamp work?
for boro & soft its definitely hot enough 1980 °C 3596 °F
Good job. Is there a way to calculate the diameter (or area) of the ventilation holes based on the size of the nozzle / torch?
Plastic come a long way when you have to use a hacksaw to get it off a foreign tube
Awesome. Thank you!
Hi clkindred, Nice tutorial. Could you Upsize this torch even further?
Also you maybe interested to learn that you can now get a braided hose with a LPG BBQ cylinder fitting on one end and a male fitting to suit those torches which use the disposable propane cylinders and they retail here in Melbourne for @ A$50. The hose is 1500 mm long or 5' for you imperial types. Bromic is the brand and it is to suit Bernzomatic propane suitable torches
+Mark Fryer I think you could make it bigger, just make the burner and tune the orifice size to match, I don't know if the relationship between burner diameter, length and orifice size is linear. I use just such a product to run the burner on a BBQ tank.
Could i get a parts list for this please.
How big is the hole you drilled in the new Orpheus ?
Greetings and where have you been all my life this is magnificent truly without a doubt Hank Hill would be so proud be safe.
I love the blow torch design! Would you be willing to build one for me?
Let me know your thoughts😊.
now i can understand some basical princyples:
The end(start really) of little ejector tube has a jet(wondering about regulated one, like diaphragm of photo camera) in the tube of an ejector of small diameter, say with a tunnel of 5mm diameter, which I call the starting diameter of the channel
With two or 3,4,6,8 lateral holes ,.
Which I call the "nostrils", they should have a shutter for closing, a section of a tube of larger diameter, with a longitudinal cut, like a spring hugging and closing nostrils, if you push it like a curtain over the windows, partially or completely, it's important because I refill the can sometimes Diethyl ether (medical), which can work as a gas after heating the balloon with hot water from a water pipe, or isopropyl alcohol or petroleum ether (which require an electric hot plate> 100С
What size hole is the oriface?
Oops, I have that annotated but not everyone can see it depending on their setttings. The orifice is .016"
Hi, thanks for sharing this video. You mentioned a brass fitting called a "face bushing" but didn't say what size it was. I know the inside should be 3/8 npt but what about the outside threading?
oops! It's 1/2 NPT outside.
cool thanks
Bushing reducer/increaser/ a “CPLG RED /INCR”?
HA HA! I LOVE IT! TWO THUMBS UP
CAUTION: Downward angle TIPS could heat the tank & blow UP if the wind is blowing the flame ON TO THE TANK
PROBABLY NOT THOUGH
Can we please get a parts list? I really want to make this
Thanks Im gunna do this to my piece of shit weedburner.
thanks for sending me this link!!!! It's exactly what I am looking for the upgrade my forge!!!! I'll send you a pic and/or video of the finished product. thanks Again!!!!
Sir,
I'm currently building my first propane forge and would really be interested in seeing some pics/vids of your build.
Will
dabs!
lmao
your first torch(little both) gave flame needle(long on the axis), and big one torch(you work) giving wide="short", cone without focuss point, so it will not melt piece of iron(little iron paper clip - enough for test temperature maximum, and it is possible record, at least you will get like а hair follicle ball on the end, afted 5-10min of searching right hot point of flame(iron must be like airplane in flow, along on the axis, and also some time you can find area on the fringe("hat" edge flame cone), to gen needle you need to take away drain strainer part(last grid with 7 big hols) and put inside flange_nut(look at wiki pedia), wide side must lay on your 15/16 grid, and you will see hexagon, and little(1-2mm wide) сircular slot along the edges, My mesh is a little wide, and I wrapped the protruding edges toward me, pressing the mesh inside this nut like a piston, pressing on the hexagon
hello is the npt tap not on a tapper and if so wouldnt it mess the tapper up when u ran it in both ends of the bushing you tapped or am i wrong
Can you PLEASE send me a parts list and what size is the Face bushing??
CLKindred: It appears that the outgoing thread on the BernzOMatic torch is not a pipe thread. There is no way that the LFA-712 ( 1/8" MIP x 1/8" FIP street El can be used on the valve body, (unless I'm missing something here!).
that specific apple coring tool is no longer available is there a different tube I can use or the dimensions on that one
How much would u charge me to have building one for me
Is the length is 3/8 brass pipe male threaded on both ends a specific length?
I recently tried your suggestions with a older Bernzomatic torch. There was an issue with matching up the threading of the torch and the brass fittings you specified. Do you know the thread type on the Bernzomatic. Also, the orifice was was not removable, but built into the bent tube, on the end.
+BlackHeliCrowd If the torch is designed differently than the ones I use, then I don't know what thread type it has. Was it close to fitting? Or was is completely different?
Visualy the torch type looks exactly the same as the one you used. Did you use the Bernzomatic brand? The 1/8" MIP is sloppy when first screwed into the torch body, but seems to kind of tighten up at the very end. The bent torch piece is definitely too big for the 1/8" FIP.
BlackHeliCrowd I bought parts at Home Depot. The 1/8" plug looks exactly like the one in the video. However, it is not the same.
The H-D version, at the top of the threads has a very thin washer like obstruction cast into it. It looks the same, but without modification its not gonna thread.
great vid i think I'm going to make this thank you.
Did I miss when you said what size you drilled the orifice? If not, well that's kinda a waste without knowing how large the main jet needs to be!
Muito bom Parabéns nota 10 Obrigado
How does one contact you to build them one
I live in Dk and its going to be impossible for me to get my hands on all these :( I know what you are thinking, Offcourse you can find everything if you try. But you got to live here to understand what I mean.... But we have the Internet thou. Thank you for a lovely Video
I will go to menards or home depot to get some tools to make this awesome mega blowtorch.
awesome idea.excellent naration.
Thanks!
Thats awesome thanks for sharing
Nice video ! Quick suggestion-- use a fine pipe screen from a local tobacco shop. This will add a little more pressure and enhance the flame...........
what size for an orifice was drilled into the plug ... video skipped that part in which I was waiting for on the edge of my seat
The orifice is .016 inch.
ty
Just propane or is it ok for Mapp gas ?
I wanted to thank you for the information on this upgrade and I wanted to share the version I did. Same setup just used a Harbor Freight hand torch to control the flame and a better way to hold it. If You get a chance take a look and see the mods I did because of lack of parts ua-cam.com/video/v84ggDx3TMU/v-deo.html
Nice job on this burner design and will be the perfect size for the forge I'm planning to build ( heat treating for knife making). Trying to procure a container size BETWEEN your No.10 and trashcan size. Burner is almost complete. I used a 3/8-4" brass nipple with 1/2"x 3/8 hex bushing tapped thru and shortened on the end. then trimmed the points off the hex for press fit. This setup brought the end of the inner pipe about 1" from the end of the SS tube for the aerator/strainer to be pressed against. The only issue I'm having is the plug. I have the one in the video "Watts 1/8 LFA 710" but has tapered threads. Did you end up going with a DIFFERENT part? Again Great Job!
Golden Mask I went back trough my videos and found where I showed that part number, and that is exactly the part I used. I should not have eluded to that plug not having a taper, it dose, but the other kinds of plugs there is a ridge or hex flats that make threading the plug in upside down impossible.
The orifice hole looks like maybe 3/64” or a #60 wire bit maybe?
Oop, looks like it’s actually 0.016”, aka a #78 wire bit. Definitely a specialty item, and you may need an extra-fine drill chuck (like a Jacobs #0) to use it.
This is very good...thanks
What size was the drill bit you used to create the orifice?
what and how does the screen an strainer help the torch.
It mixes the propane and the drawn in air for a smoother combustion.
just attempted this build and it was an utter failure LOL. I could not for the life of me, get the 1/8' NPT square plug to thread into the 1/8" to 1/4" NPT bushing. I tapped it all the way through and it still wouldn't go......:-(
+TheLagwagon6040 I suppose I could post an update video with different construction methods, the plug was how I do it now, but it was more because it made research easier being kind of modular.
I echo all the thanks for this video and look forward to building the forge. How did determine the size of the orifice that was needed?
In an earlier project I made a propane camp stove and through a few months of experimenting found that the orifice needed to be as small as I could make it, any bigger than .016" is too big for a burner this size. .016 was the smallest drill bit I could get. This also means the burner can't be any smaller than this, because that would require a smaller orifice. The orifice size, burner tube diameter, burner tube length, primary combustion air holes, and burner head are all locked in a system that needs to be in balance. If one thing is changed, there must be changes made to the other elements as well.
clkindred Thanks for the quick response. It is the engineering calculations of the balanced system that I was that I was trying to find. Can you point me to a source that has the formulae or at least discusses the relationships of the various parameters?
There is no such information I could find myself, that is why the camp stove took so long to make. I found page after page of information on burners that have already been designed, but nothing on how to design your own. Detailes like orifice size and such were not published because they assume a technitian is just trying to troubleshoot the burner, not make changes or make one.
clkindred Thanks. If I do find anything on the calculations, I'll send it to you.
+elven b You may already know this, but there is such a thing as a "gas orifice drill chart." If you know your BTU output, you can look up the orifice size for propane or natural gas. You can also use this to convert appliances from propane to natural gas and vice-verse. A 0.016" orifice is a number 78 drill bit. That would be around 1800 BTU's.
www.johnstone-westmichigan.com/techcenter/orficetable.pdf
CLKindred: The orifice's on the new BernzOmatic torches appear not to be removable? The nose of the orifice is cone shaped which renders the brass tube un-usable? Any suggestions? I have 3: 2 are over 2 years old and they are ll the same.
Ed..
Ed Alger drill out the cone. For the tube, replace it with a short piece of 1/8" brass tube.
I don't want to annoy you but you and I could be a crazy good team I'm a critical thinker and marketer and have a lot of money backing me and a big team. This is my dream, I'll do all the hard part let's create together 50/50 everything I'll do what ever I can to make us successful I promise hear me out.. millions/ billions no joke.
George Shahin hahhahahahah youre funny
Thank you so much the mystery was solved. Even though the reducer hole measures the 3/8 it takes the 1/8 pipe threading tap with a 27 TPI. The funniest thing is I went to Home Depot for a 1/8 square stopper ( with no shoulder) n it didn't fit after tapping it out, then I went to a plumbing supply store n bought another 1/8 square stopper n it fit perfectly.
The only other question I have is the orifice u said a .016 hole, I have a 1/64 bit which is .01562 so do you mean get a 1/64 bit?
no, the micro drill bits I have are measured in thousanths of an inch. .016 is exactly what it is. A bit measuring .015 or so will be fine.
You can purchase the apple corer on EBay for $7.00 to $8.00.
I just got a blowtorch. but instead of a 7/32 nut with a tiny hole it looked as if the manufaturer just milled a piece of brass into a bent pipe. Its all one piece. Ideas? there is not much thread otherwise I would just drill it out. What brand do you use?
Are you talking about the factory orifice? I don't reuse that piece so it should not matter how they made that particular part. Now if you are talking about the bent brass tube being a solid part with the blowtorch valve, then that might be a problem. I use "Worthington" torches. But the other popular brand "Berzomatic or whatever" has the same construction.
clkindred Kind of. Instead of that small bolt you show, the tube and orifice are all one piece. I have not tried to separate them out yet since I was jammed up at taking the orifice out. However, I found that my local Home Depot has some older style Burnzomatic ones that DO have the tiny orifice nut. I can clearly see it. Thanks a bunch.
clkindred No it doesn't. They are making them as all solid brass pieces now.
This thing is, awesome. gives me ideas for a wok burner. if you have any ideas for a good wok burner let me know. ( I REALLY like the door knob burner)
haggard184 Most wok burners I have seen use multiple small burners (like 20 small blowtorch sized burners) or a large "banjo" style burner. I think three or four door knob burners plumbed together would be a good middle ground between the two designs.
Sir, the logic you demonstrate throughout all of your videos is very impressive and commendable.
QUESTION: How do you arrive at the most efficiently burning design with respect to the "DIFFUSOR" (sink parts)?
Is there a "golden ratio" that exists that I'm not aware of?
My ignorance prevents me from understanding what exactly is achieved by diffusing the flame WITHIN THE TUBE before it exits the end.
(If my my question has already been addressed, please forgive me for not having the time to read all of the comments.)
+TexasLONGRIFLE First I'll go over what the sink parts do. The drain strainer with the large holes in it, makes the "flame anchor" when placed into the fuel/air stream it creates low pressure zone just past it. Think of water in a river flowing around a bridge support, as the water goes around and past the support it creates eddy currents on the downstream side. This is needed to anchor the flame or it will be pushed outside the burner and blow itself out. The screen is just to prevent the flame from flashing back towards the orifice at low gas pressure, it's kind of complicated how a screen blocks passage of a flame, but it has a lot to do with sucking the heat out of the flame.
As for a golden ratio, I'm not sure. For the flame anchor to work it seems to need about a 20-30% ratio of web (stuff in between the holes) to 80-70% holes. As far as the size of the holes, they all seem to work, but I noticed the larger the holes, the louder the burner.
wow ! Well made and done ! How can I get a much longer flame thrown from a standard gas cylinder blow torch ?? I would have to modify the nozzles etc 🤔
clkindred, I have un into a problem with my torch. I did the modafication torch that hooh-up to a 20lb propane cyl. I can't seem to get it to burn correctly. I drilled the 3/16 air holes and driller a 1/16 hole for my orifice. What size did you drill your orifice in the plug? I plan to build a small forge ti smelt silver and such.
I used a .016" drill I got from the hobby store. 1/16" is many hundreds of times too large for a burner this size.
clkindred
OK perhaps not hundreds of times too big, but far too large.
Okay thanks, I will try it.
Very impressed! great job! How do I buy a few?
nice tap handle
If I were going to build a number 10 can forge like one of your other videos would I need to do this? Or could I just make the hole in the forge smaller and use a standard torch fitting?
A standard torch could only heat a smaller forge, this burner is just the right size for this size forge. And it's barely enough for the trashcan forge I made.
clkindred Thank you. Guess I'm going shopping.
clkindred One more quick question - and I'm sorry to bother you again. Will the number 10 can forget get hot enough to heat treat steel? I am hoping to start knife making and want to be sure that this will work before I start building it. Thanks.
Yes, but the closed back design is not the best for that. You can't get the blade hot along its whole length, only the tip gets hot, if kept in the forge long enough for the heat to work it's way back, the tip will be too hot and will have problems with being brittle. Also I recommend the refractory recipe in my trashcan forge video, the only other ingredient is aluminum oxide sandblasting grit. The added heat resistance is well worth it.
clkindred So the trash can design would be better? I can do that.
Muy buen quemador.
Soy de España y no entiendo muy bien el inglés, ¿serías tan amable de hacerme llegar la lista de materiales para hacer el quemador?
Muchisimas gracias por tu tiempo y por la información, a mi me es muy útil.
Could I go straight to 3/8 to 1/8. Or do I need the length of the tube and fittings for gas expansion?
Make the exhaust length twice as long and it'll be like a laser sword.
What part is the face bushing?