I had a Ford Courier with this problem. It ended up being loose points in the distributor. I replaced it with a new pointless digital distributor and that fixed it. The hot lead to the ignition could also be shorting, maybe try a hot wire from the battery to the ignition coil. instead of the one coming from the key, just make sure you remember to pull the wire when you want to shut the engine off when you do it that way. Good luck. 👍
For the Weber 32/36, iirc.. idle screw (screw that touches the throttle link / aims towards the passenger side of the car) all the back until the screw doesn’t make contact with the linkage, then back 1 full turn. (You’ll adjust this to correct the idle speed (RPMs) then the idle mix screw (the lower screw that aims towards the firewall / towards the cabin), you screw in all the way and back out 1 1/2 turns. Then you fine tune by best “lean” idle. Meaning once the car idles ok, screw it in until it starts to stumble, then back out slowly to a smooth idle. (general info if you didn’t know, screw in means lean/ less fuel, out rich/ more fuel)
But I’d also listen to the comments about timing it does sound off, however with the amount of fuel the engine has been consuming the spark plugs are likely to be fouled (take them out and clean them) throw them back in. Once your engine is happy replace them. Don’t waste money and replace them before figuring out timing and fueling, you’ll just waste new spark plugs. It’s all a learning experience.
Sorry for the spam, lol you guys should really set the choke. With the engine cold, Take the air filter off. Loosen the three set screws on the choke actuator (the round thing on the side of the carb closest to the engine.) using a small flat head, place the tip between the choke flap and the carb body, the tip will act as a gap tool (there is an actual spec but this has worked fine for me) spin the actuator, you should see the choke plates move, you’re trying to close them onto the tip of the screwdriver, so once you’ve got a bit of tension on it, tighten the three set screws.
I had a Ford Courier with this problem. It ended up being loose points in the distributor. I replaced it with a new pointless digital distributor and that fixed it.
The fuel in the intake was from you stabbing the throttle repeatedly. Each time you stabbed the throttle the accelerator pump shot fuel down the throat.
Can you record your timing adjustment? I have a ‘73 and cannot get my timing right. Also don’t really know what I’m doing and cannot find the ball in the flywheel.
If you guys want more power, you should try double Weber carbs would be really cool
I had a Ford Courier with this problem. It ended up being loose points in the distributor. I replaced it with a new pointless digital distributor and that fixed it. The hot lead to the ignition could also be shorting, maybe try a hot wire from the battery to the ignition coil. instead of the one coming from the key, just make sure you remember to pull the wire when you want to shut the engine off when you do it that way. Good luck. 👍
For the Weber 32/36, iirc.. idle screw (screw that touches the throttle link / aims towards the passenger side of the car) all the back until the screw doesn’t make contact with the linkage, then back 1 full turn. (You’ll adjust this to correct the idle speed (RPMs) then the idle mix screw (the lower screw that aims towards the firewall / towards the cabin), you screw in all the way and back out 1 1/2 turns. Then you fine tune by best “lean” idle. Meaning once the car idles ok, screw it in until it starts to stumble, then back out slowly to a smooth idle. (general info if you didn’t know, screw in means lean/ less fuel, out rich/ more fuel)
But I’d also listen to the comments about timing it does sound off, however with the amount of fuel the engine has been consuming the spark plugs are likely to be fouled (take them out and clean them) throw them back in. Once your engine is happy replace them. Don’t waste money and replace them before figuring out timing and fueling, you’ll just waste new spark plugs. It’s all a learning experience.
Sorry for the spam, lol you guys should really set the choke. With the engine cold, Take the air filter off. Loosen the three set screws on the choke actuator (the round thing on the side of the carb closest to the engine.) using a small flat head, place the tip between the choke flap and the carb body, the tip will act as a gap tool (there is an actual spec but this has worked fine for me) spin the actuator, you should see the choke plates move, you’re trying to close them onto the tip of the screwdriver, so once you’ve got a bit of tension on it, tighten the three set screws.
I had a Ford Courier with this problem. It ended up being loose points in the distributor. I replaced it with a new pointless digital distributor and that fixed it.
The fuel in the intake was from you stabbing the throttle repeatedly. Each time you stabbed the throttle the accelerator pump shot fuel down the throat.
Dizzy might be clapped. If you want to get rid of points, the 123 ignition distributor might be a decent option. Or EDIS.
Can you record your timing adjustment? I have a ‘73 and cannot get my timing right. Also don’t really know what I’m doing and cannot find the ball in the flywheel.
You may not have one. Check the crank pulley you should find marks on there.
Firing order on dizzy at 1432? Rotor set at top dead center on the dizzy with the motor set at TDC?